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这种服装可以在休闲的场合穿，比如：上学，出去玩，逛街，等等场合。古代时，穿格子裙代表和平和谐。

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苏格兰传统服装与现代的服装融合

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苏格兰传统服装与现代的服装融合

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我设计出一件既有民族文化的服装，也要能够追得上潮流的服饰。利用苏格兰传统服装的特色和现代的服饰，可以创造出一个既有现代潮流的风格，也含有苏格兰服装的影子。这个作业让我们深刻体会到了服装与文化的联系。展现苏格兰的文化给全世界。confident in their own culture and will be willing to wear it for the world to see.

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裙子：最原始的格子裙（tartan）颜色是红，黄，蓝和绿色。这几个颜色不但是最鲜艳的，而且也是最容易制作的染色。现在，具有各自的图案通常是使用比较暗淡的颜色。我把古代与现代的图案融合，我制作的下装是使用古代时，把黑色当作底色，把亮丽的红和黄色放在上面。红色代表财富和属于更高阶层的人们。黑色代表战争。苏格兰里服装的颜色也代表不同宗族的群体。在我的服装中，我的颜色都是使用苏格兰传统服装里面的色彩。

上衣，鞋子，皮包，皮带：在苏格兰服装里，白色代表和平，而黑色则代表苏格兰历史中战争的死亡。除了裙子的图案，剩下的服装部分都是用黑色和白的设计。我是用这种对比的颜色，所以别人的眼光会被最重要的裙子吸引。

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Hello readers, I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and a Happy Hogmanay - we certainly did here in Scotland and are now recharged and refreshed after the festive break.

To kick off our 2014 blog, we thought it would be great to go back and look in more depth at a topic we have covered slightly in the past - the terminology for different colour-ways of tartans, and the meaning behind colour selection for some modern tartans!

First we'll consider the standard clan tartan, in this example transcribed as MacDonald Modern (occasionally, MacDonald Clan Modern). The ' Modern' here lets you know that the colours are the standard modern chemical dyes used in tartan weaving. The reds, yellows, blue and greens will be strong and bright, while navy, bottle green and black will be very dark. 'Modern' colour ways are of course the most common, and are usually considered the standard by which all other colour variants are derived from.

The next most common colour way is the ' Ancient' tartans, as in MacDonald (Clan) Ancient. These colours are still produced using modern chemical dyes (as are all the colourways), but are attempting to mimic the appearance of cloth which has been aged for many years. Ancient colourways became popular in the 1950's and 60's when the fad for vivid 'Modern' colours had waned slightly. One reason for the enduring popularity of the 'Ancient' shades is that the lighter, faded style makes it easier to identify and differentiate the lines in certain patterns. In the Black Watch Modern tartan, for example, it can be difficult to tell the difference between the areas of navy and bottle green as they are so dark. Some people like this subtlety, but others prefer the 'Ancient' version where the colours more easy to tell apart.

' Reproduction' cloths were next to come along, after the discovery of a tiny fragment of tartan fabric, dating back almost 200 years inspired the weavers at DC Dalgleish to try and recreate the colours present in the sample. These tartans are stronger in hue than the 'Ancient' ones, but the colours are overall softer and more natural looking than the 'Modern' dyes. Other mills have tried to capture their own versions of this, giving rise to two new colourways which are growing in popularity; ' Muted' colours are slightly less bright and artificial looking than ' Modern', but not quite as natural as the ' Reproduction' colourway, and ' Weathered ', which is a more extreme version, aiming to look as though the fabric was not only dyed using vegetable dyes, but was then aged for many decades. The 'Weathered' palette tends towards greys and browns and may look very different than the original 'Modern' scheme, but the pattern and thread-count will remain the same, only the definition for what constitutes red, or blue, or green has differed.

As previously mentioned, pattern variants are noted by a term just after the clan or district name. This may be seen in the MacDonald Old Modern tartan, as an example. These terms will describe in some sense the reason that this variant is different from the main tartan. In the cases where the term 'Old' is used, it means either that a new design has been adopted, or that this is an earlier design which was previously unknown, the colourway designation 'Modern' here still only refers to the dying process which has been used on the threads. 'Hunting', 'Mourning', and 'Dress' are the other terms commonly used in this way, and it is quite self-explanatory as to the circumstances under which each variant design was used. ' Hunting' tartans tend to be developed by clans with a very bright or complicated standard design, to allow for outdoor pursuits in a less showy outfit, ' Mourning' tartans are very rare, but consist of replacing the background of a tartan with white, and making the entire overcheck black. Finally we have the ' Dress ' tartans, which are frequently worn by Highland Dancers. These variants see the background of the tartan be replaced by a pure white ground which makes the overcheck even more vibrant and noticeable when dancing. Dress tartans, along with 'Hunting' tartans are by far the most common pattern variations.

But what about colour symbolism? Of course, with most clan tartans, any colour symbolism would only apply to the standard variant, as all the different colourways or other variations can dramatically alter the colours of the finished tartan. However in fact, despite never-ending rumours, the majority of old tartans (i.e. those designed before the 20th century) don't have any specific symbolism attached to the choices of colours at all. The reason for this is quite simple; when tartans were first developed, the colours were determined by the local availability of dyes, and the wealth of those wearing them. Tartan designers didn't think of themselves as such as the time, and their selections would have been based on what was naturally pleasing to them while being readily available and affordable for the people they were weaving for. Furthermore, many tartans were "invented" during the Victorian revival of Scottish and specifically Highland fashions. This was not done in a malicious way, but because many of the truly ancient patterns and designs had been lost or forgotten during the period known as Proscription, so clan chiefs had to try to piece these back together from incomplete records, or have new designs made. As such these patterns, while not false, do not necessarily have the same connotations as the older, lost designs.

Modern tartans however, are frequently designed with specific colour symbolism in mind. Because there is no specific system equating particular shades with particular meanings, one shade of blue may be used by three different designers to mean three different things! Perhaps the background of the Saltire flag in a commemorative design, the waters of a local river for a new district tartan, or even the blue eyes of a loved one in a personal tartan! This means there are unlimited possibilities for symbolism when designing a new tartan and it can be very interesting and enlightening to read the notes attached to every official tartan registration to see if there is a particular story or meaning behind each design.

One of our favourites is the World Peace Tartan; a new design registered only a couple of years ago. The tartan was designed to promote a global message of peace and features a very distinctive light blue background - chosen for its similarity to the striking light blue used by the United Nations. Red and black lines cross the overcheck, representing the everyday reality of war and violence which affects our planet, and lines of purple and green, representing the thistle, mark Scotland's position at the heart of this initiative to raise awareness and promote peace. Finally, strong white lines run through the centre of the black lines, symbolising hope for a peaceful future. Isn't it wonderful to see how, with just a few ideas for symbolism and using only a handful of common colours, a talented designer can create such a beautiful design?

We would love to hear from you about any tartan symbolism you've encountered, or any colourways or variants you have been drawn to - perhaps you have eschewed your standard clan tartan for something a little more offbeat, or perhaps you have designed a tartan yourself in the past? As always comments are welcomed!

Comments

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Hello readers, I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and a Happy Hogmanay - we certainly did here in Scotland and are now recharged and refreshed after the festive break.

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通常，格子裙是到膝盖的。苏格兰算是一个比较保守的民族，但是现在受欢迎的裙子则是膝盖以上，短一点的裙子。所以我把苏格兰褶裥短裙改短一些来符合现代服装的潮流。我也把原本的白衬衫改成长袖T恤，更符合这个服装的休闲场合。服饰上的腰带还是保留传统服装同样的皮带。我在ghillies 和 ghillies brogues 的基础上把他们传统鞋子换成高跟鞋。最后，为了融入更现代的风格，我加了一件皮包。（以下是ghillies brogues的鞋子）

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格子裙的图案源于十八世纪的一个王室家庭里的军装／军服。王子詹姆斯·弗朗西斯·爱德华·斯图亚特反抗英国君主时，穿的服装。从那时候“格子“的图案开始在苏格兰大受欢迎。我设计的服装中当然要加入格子的图案因为这是苏格兰服装的代表性图案。

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This article will attempt to detail some of the more common kilt accessories as seen in actual wearing practice. In this sense, it is like a dictionary which catalogues usage, not an etiquette book which declaims on proper style.

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Traditional Scottish clothing is characterised by the appearance of tartan or 'plaid' patterns in some form. Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Originally it was made from woven cloth, but now additional materials are also used.

Until the middle of the 19th century, highland tartans were associated with regions or districts, rather than by any specific clan or family. This was due to the fact that the designs were produced by local weavers, with a limited range of local dyes and for local tastes.

[photo by: Lee Carson]

Male Scottish dress includes a kilt or 'trews', sporrans and gillie brogues.

The kilt is a knee-length 'skirt' with pleats at the rear. It was first worn in the 16th century, by men and boys in the Scottish Highlands. It is typically made from one piece of fabric that is wrapped around and fastened at the side.

Since the 19th century, it has been associated with the wider culture of Scotland in general, or with Celtic - and more specifically Gaelic - heritage further afield.

Today, the Scottish kilt is most frequently worn on formal occasions or at Highland games and sports events. It has, however, all been adapted for more mainstream fashion, and can be seen on catwalks across the globe, worn by Scottish and non-Scottish fans alike.

The sporran is made of leather or fur, and serves as a wallet and container for any other necessary personal items, as the traditional Scottish kilt does not have pockets.

In medieval times, it would have been attached to the belt. Today, it generally hangs just below the belt buckle on a chain, but can be turned around the waist, to let it hang on the hip in a more casual and convenient position.

Gillie brogues are traditional thick-soled shoes, with no tongues and long laces. The laces are secured by wrapping them around the ankles then tied. The shoes deliberately lack tongues, so the wearer's feet can dry more quickly in typically damp Scottish weather.

The Gillie brogue is named after the Gillie, the traditional Scottish gamekeeper and outdoorsman.

Traditionally, women and girls didn't wear kilts, but sometimes wore ankle-length plaid skirts. In the absence of this, or in addition, a tartan sash or shawl may also be worn to indicate clan affiliation.

Female dress also includes gillie shoes that are tied on the same way as their male counterparts', but they tend to have thin soles for indoor wear and dancing.

Women may also wear 'dress' tartans, which have white threads woven into the patterns. The light colour of this fabric was a status symbol. It was used to demonstrate prosperity, because the wearer could wear the tartan without fear of it being soiled.

White tartan was also worn to social events as a sign of peace and harmony - indicating it would not be stained by bloodshed.

Traditional Scottish clothing associated its wearer with a particular region or district. Today it may link them to a particular clan or family, or simply be a representation of their national pride.

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Traditional Scottish clothing is characterised by the appearance of tartan or 'plaid' patterns in some form. Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Originally it was made from woven cloth, but now additional materials are also used.

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From highlanders to hipsters

smithsonian.com

For a pattern, plaid has been remarkably successful. It's one of the most widespread, recognizable and ubiquitous designs in the world, coming in almost every color and shade under the sun. But while it may be a major part of the hipster dress code, plaid has meant a lot of different things to many different people during the thousands of years that people have been wearing that iconic fabric.

Technically, plaid isn't the pattern's proper name. That honor goes to the word "tartan," which was first used to describe the individual colors and patterns used to decorate the clothes of different Scottish clans. While they often came in the same colors, "plaids" were actually heavy traveling cloaks worn to ward off the bitter cold of the Scottish winters, Tyler Atwood writes for Bustle. Plaid only replaced tartan once the patterns became popular with British and American textile manufacturers who would recreate fabrics that looked like tartans, but without centuries of symbolic meaning embedded in their clothing.

"If you lived in a remote land, you would buy your woven cloth from the same weaver," the Scottish Tartans Authority's Brian Wilton tells Rick Paulas for Pacific Standard. "And the weaver would not be reproducing a choice of patterns, but a standard pattern using the colors available to him, many of which were vegetable dyes."

Over time, these local patterns became synonymous with the regional clans scattered throughout Scotland, kind of like how people today wear baseball caps from their hometown teams, Paulas writes. But while baseball may be only a few centuries old, tartan goes back at least 3,000 years, with the oldest example of the fabric found buried with the remains of "the Cherchen Man," a mummy of Caucasian descent found buried in the sands of the western Chinese desert, according to the Tartans Authority.

During the 18th century, tartan was co-opted from Scottish family symbol to military uniform under James Francis Edward Stuart's 1714 rebellion against the English monarchy. At the time, a pattern now known as "Black Watch Plaid" became associated with the Royal Highland Regiment, a Scottish military force that remained the pride of the United Kingdom's army until it was disbanded in 2003. Although after the Scottish forces were defeated at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, the multicolored tartans were banned for nearly a century.

In recent years, however, plaid has had such a strong resurgence that in some places you would be hard-pressed to look around and not see at least one person wearing checked plaid. Hipsters are far from the only subculture to make plaid their uniform: some Los Angeles street gangs identify their allegiances with plaid clothing, while the Beach Boys made plaid Pendleton shirts the symbol of 1960s surf rock. Whatever the color and context, it seems like plaid is one pattern that may never go out of style.

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smithsonian.com For a pattern, plaid has been remarkably successful. It's one of the most widespread, recognizable and ubiquitous designs in the world, coming in almost every color and shade under the sun.

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其中我添加在服装中的是首饰，项链。项链是一个叉叉的图案，这代表圣安德鲁斯十字架。圣安德鲁斯十字架的图案也有在苏格兰的国旗上。我想添加一点现代的首饰，但是还是连接到苏格兰的历史。圣安德鲁斯是一位被钉死在十字架上的圣徒。

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原本，苏格兰的服装是用羊毛和呢子的材料制作的。这套苏格兰的服装是用聚酯面料，更轻和常见的面料，这种材料可以整年穿，不会太热或太冷。

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“The Saltire” redirects here. For other uses, see Saltire.

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衣服端庄，保守。颜色鲜艳。可以展现出他们修长的身材。对于图案和颜色非常讲究。

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忠于祖国，具有爱国的精神

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忠于祖国，具有爱国的精神

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服装里充满了历史的足迹，颜色有特别的意思。圣安德鲁斯的项链看出他们爱国的精神，愿意每天带着代表和象征祖国的标志。

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Scottish kilts are known as " The National Dress of Scotland" and are a highly recognized form of dress throughout the world. Kilts have deep cultural and historical roots in the country of Scotland and are a sacred symbol of patriotism and honor for a true Scotsman. The word "kilt" is a derivation of the ancient Norse word, kjilt, which means pleated, and refers to clothing that is tucked up and around the body.

Scottish kilts originate back to the 16 th century, when they were traditionally worn as full length garments by Gaelic-speaking male Highlanders of northern Scotland. They were referred to as a léine, Gaelic for "shirt" and typically, the garments were draped over the shoulder or pulled over the head as cloaks. The wearing of Scottish kilts was common during the 1720s, when the British military used them as their formal uniforms. The knee-length kilt, similar to the modern kilt of today, did not develop until the late 17 th or early 18 th century.

Early Scottish kilts were made using self-colored garments, which were white or dull brown, green or black as opposed to the multicolored plaids or tartan designs recognized today. As dyeing and weaving techniques improved during the late 1800s, tartan patterns were developed, and these plaid designs became native to Scotland using tartan cloth.

The "great kilt" and belted plaid evolved from the tartan wrap, when woolen wraps and plaids began to emerge as a highly desirable form of fashion and a sign of cultural affluence. In time, the garments were worn gathered at the waist in what became the belted plaid. It was called in Gaelic feileadh-mór, meaning "great wrap" or breacan-an-feileadh, meaning "tartan wrap." The belted plaid became a popular dress among Highland men during the 17 th century and as late as 1822, when they were worn largely for ceremonial purposes as opposed to being a part of everyday dress. The female version was referred to as the arisaid, which was worn down to the ankles and generally made from white tartan cloth with a wide-spaced pattern.

During the mid to late 17 th century, the "small kilt," phillabeg or feileadh-beag, in Gaelic, or "little wrap" developed. The pleated "small kilt" or "walking kilt" is basically the bottom half of the great kilt from the 16 th century Scottish Highlands, which was belted plaid using untailored cloth. The garment was loosely gathered into folds and belted at the waist, falling to just above the knee, with a few inches of cloth overlapping the top of the belt. Typically, a separate length of cloth was worn over the shoulders for protection and warmth.

The phillabeg was prevalent during the first half of the 17th century throughout central Scotland and the Highlands. However, in an effort to repress Highland culture, King George II imposed the Dress Act of 1746, which made it illegal for the Highland regiments to wear garments resembling any form of Highland dress, as well as the tartan kilt. King George II's opponents were threatening to replace him using Jacobite armies. In a panic, he intended to use the act's provisions to ban the kilt from Highland armies so that he could easily determine those who were supporting the Jacobite position and eliminate them.

However, the phillabeg kilt continued to be worn as a fashionable garment by the Scottish romantics and became a form of protest against the oppression from the English government. The ban was lifted in 1782, at which time the kilt became an enduring symbol of Scottish identity throughout Scotland and the traditional kilt gave way to the creation of kilt garments using tartan patterns, which represented particular clans, families, regions or countries. Generally, when a buyer ordered a kilt, they requested a specific tartan, of which today, there are more than 3,500. When making a kilt, the tartan's pattern must remain unbroken throughout the garment, therefore, it takes approximately 20 to 25 hours since nearly all the work is still done by hand.

Beginning in the 1790s, the phillabeg style of kilt was replaced by the tailored kilt, becoming the modern Scottish kilt of today. The difference between the phillabeg and the tailored kilt is that the pleats of the kilt are sewn down, as opposed to being gathered, folded and belted. Initially the tailored kilt was worn by the military during the 1790s when they were box-pleated, but there was no tapering. Civilian tailored kilts were made sometime after, although they weren't pleated until approximately 1820, when they were pleated to the bottom hem line. The Gordon Highlanders became the first military regiment to begin using the knife pleat (1853), and by the 1900s, it was accepted in civilian kilt designs. As fashions transformed, designs of the tailored kilt progressed to linings, waistbands, buckles and straps. Generally, modern-day Scottish kilts have 29 pleats and are made using approximately 8 yards of tartan fabric.

During the 19 th century, Scottish kilts were a form of ceremonial dress and worn only for special occasions and primarily to formal events, such as weddings, sporting events, Highland games and holiday celebrations. However, through a global cultural process of recognizing Scottish identity in America, reinventing traditions and building the Scottish-American Heritage, the Scottish kilt is increasingly being recognized as an acceptable form of dress at informal parties, as casual wear or everyday attire and returning to its cultural roots. The Scottish kilt has become a required uniform for Scotland's Tartan Army soccer team and encouraged for the team's fans.

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Scottish kilts are known as " The National Dress of Scotland" and are a highly recognized form of dress throughout the world. Kilts have deep cultural and historical roots in the country of Scotland and are a sacred symbol of patriotism and honor for a true Scotsman.

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目的是为了介绍自己设计的服装。需要融入民族传统的服装和现代的服装。
需要：
-场合
-突出的文化
-对象（那个民族）
-设计目的
-寓意
-民族精神

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一名服装设计师

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展现给老师和同学们我设计完的作品。
服装设计的对象是给苏格兰的年轻女人们。

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解释设计这件服装的目的，以及介绍你的作品。

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1）服装的设计图画完成
2）keynote presentation