# data[].attributes.body
A collection of resources to help jumpstart your newfound interest in pottery!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Pottery and Ceramics - A Brief Explanation

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
What is Ceramic, Stoneware, Porcelain and Earthenware? This post gives a basic look at these commonly used terms. Pottery and ceramics are one and the same.

# data[].attributes.headline
Seagrove: North Carolina's Pottery Highway

# data[].attributes.subject
Seagrove: North Carolina's Pottery Highway

# data[].attributes.body
Learn about North Carolina's rich pottery culture!

# data[].attributes.body
It is recommended to reach out to your local pottery studio or supplier to purchase clay, but here is a great place to order online and take a look at the variety.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Mid Fire Clay | Buy Pottery Clay Online | Nationwide Delivery

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Mid South Ceramics offers Mid Fire Pottery Clay, versatile for a range of ceramics. Fast, US-wide delivery. Shop Online Now!

# data[].attributes.body
Improperly wedged clay will result in heartbreaking wheel errors!

# data[].attributes.body
An explanation of each tool needed in pottery.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Top 10 Essential Tools for a Beginning Potter

# data[].attributes.body
As always, consider shopping at a local pottery studio or art supplier. If not, you can find affordable options online.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
8ct. Modeling Tool Set by Craft Smart® | Michaels

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Buy the Modeling Tool Set, 8 Pc by Craft Smart® at Michaels. These tools are essential for a wide range of clay modeling functions.

# data[].attributes.body
Centering your clay is a must in order to achieve symmetry and balance.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Centering for beginner (common mistakes made)

# data[].attributes.body
Wheels are not cheap, so consider searching for a used pottery wheel for starters!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How To Buy The Right Pottery Wheel - 6 Key Considerations | Soul Ceramics

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Buying a pottery wheel can be exciting, but also overwhelming. This guide will help you select the perfect fit for you. Find the top 6 factors you need to consider here.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Set Up Your First Electric Kiln // My tips for setting up, kiln ventilation & safety tips

# data[].attributes.body
Kilns are not just plug-and-play appliances! It is important that you study, observe, and do your own research before introducing a kiln into your living space.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Ultimate Guide to Buying the Perfect Ceramic Kiln

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Buying a kiln can be a difficult process, with many different models and options to choose from, and Soul Ceramics is here to help.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Pottery Kiln at Home for Beginners // how to fire a glaze kiln // pottery at home pt. 5

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Opening your clay After you center for beginners

# data[].attributes.body
It is highly recommended to start your pottery journey with formal, in-person instruction. What better way to support the local art community while also learning a new skill! Also, many community colleges offer pottery classes and are usually more affordable options.

# data[].attributes.body
Not ready to own a kiln? Check out Kiln Share and connect with local kiln owners so you can fire your beautiful pieces!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Connecting potters with 667 kiln owners

How it Works

Find kiln space to rent or list your own kiln anywhere in the world ( FAQs)

Kiln Near Me

Whether you're looking to fire a few items or a whole kiln load, search the worldwide map for FREE to find local kiln space to hire near you!

List your kiln

Earn extra income from renting kiln space to local potters. Set your own firing rules and prices. Listing your kiln on the map is FREE.

Sharing is Caring

At Kiln Share, we are on a mission to make kiln hire more accessible for potters all around the world!

We believe in #kilnhiring. Not every potter needs a kiln. Some don't have the space, others don't have the upfront investment needed to buy their own.

Kiln Share is making it easier for potters to find local kiln space to hire whilst supporting kiln owners to earn income through renting out space in their kiln.

Happy Kiln owners

Set your own firing rules and rental fees ( Pricing advice)

From 'throw & fire' kits to everything you need to start hand building at home, Potclays have a starter kit that's just right for you!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Kiln Share - find kiln space to rent near you!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
FREE global kiln directory. Rent kiln space near you or list you own kiln to earn extra income!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Creating a Pottery Space at Home (with Minimum Space) — Kara Leigh Ford Ceramics

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Creating a home pottery studio when space is limited. How to create a home pottery studio on a budget.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Once your pottery has been designed and formed, it is vital that it is completely dry before firing. Failure to do so can compromise the end result, causing the pottery to become frail, cracked or even breaking once in the kiln. The basic premise is that pottery should be dried slowly and steadily in order to be effectively dried throughout. There are, however, many factors that can affect this including climate, the size of your piece, the thickness, and the drying technique you use.

Factors that can affect pottery drying

Climate

A humid climate ensures that your pottery can retain its moisture, even after a week. To negate this, it's best to give the pottery an extra week or even two - the longer the better to ensure that the pottery is thoroughly dried out.

Dry climates are particularly useful for pottery makers. Even larger sized pottery will be completely dry in a week and maybe even sooner dependent on how it has been stored. However, this can also be a disadvantage as sometimes the clay can dry too quickly and crack or crumble and therefore compromise the integrity of the piece.

The size of your piece

If your pottery is half an inch thick or greater, then it is recommended to leave it to dry for up to three weeks. If you live in a humid climate and want to ensure that the clay is fully dried, then it is worth leaving pottery for an additional week to ensure it is completely dry.

When crafting a larger or thicker piece, it's worth using extra time to make sure your pottery is totally dry.

The ingredients of your clay

All clays have a different make up, different levels of moisture and different additives. It therefore stands to common sense that the different make up of clays plays a big part in how long it takes for pottery to dry before firing. Clays with a high level of plastic and a finer composition will have a higher water content (similar to porcelain). This means that they will take longer to dry, and shrinkage will be more significant when fired.

It's worth remembering that the greater the shrinkage, the more likely your clay is to .

Adding grog into your clay will help reduce cracking, reduce shrinking and your clay will also dry faster. Grog is essentially finely ground clay that has been pre-fired. The fact that the grog has been fired means that it doesn't absorb water and therefore dries faster.

Grog does have the slight disadvantage of making the clay less easy to manipulate, so is not suited to more intricate projects.

How to fix uneven drying

Depending on the that you use, shrinkage can be anywhere from 2% to 10% during the drying process, which doesn't include the shrinkage after using a kiln to fire your project.

Clays with the highest shrinkage can crack if not dried evenly and so it's important to try and ensure even drying.

Testing your clay

Testing your clay is a really important factor in determining how it dries. Not only do you get a feel for the texture and make-up of your clay but you can also test how fast your clay dries and measure the shrinkage rate after it has completely dried through. You can also measure the shrinkage range after firing.

Drying in the sun

Drying your pottery naturally is obviously the ideal way to dry it out thoroughly, however it can cause uneven drying. The issue with uneven drying is that the dry part will pull on the wet part and crack your pottery prior to firing. The best way to avoid this is to dry your pottery in the shade, where it will get an even drying.

Large plates or flat clay projects

The best way to evenly dry large or flat clay projects is to use plywood lined with newspaper. Particleboard is not as effective due to warpage and drywall can dry the clay too fast.

Tenting

Tenting is a perfect way to slow the drying down and to create a long and even process. It is best to allow air into your piece, so use a light piece of plastic like a bag to ensure that it doesn't touch the clay.

Alternatives For Air Drying

You can use alternatives for drying your clay in order to speed up the process, but they come with risks, as faster drying can cause cracks. Even if you speed the process up, it should still be done in a slow and steady way to ensure a comprehensive drying of the piece. Here are some ways that you can achieve a slightly faster drying cycle.

Candling

You can use your electric kiln to speed up the process (a range of electric kilns can be found at Soul Ceramics ). The ideal way to use your kiln is to set the temperature to 82 degrees celsius for 8 to 12 hours. Candling can help to remove any excess moisture from your piece in an even way.

Heat Gun

The heat gun can be a useful method of drying but it can cause uneven drying if not administered properly. Set the gun at a relatively low temperature and carry out the process for less than 15 minutes to ensure a more successful outcome.

Blow Dryers

Dryers can be a tricky device to use for clay drying as they tend to blow hot air too hard on the clay and cause it to dry too quickly. If you want to experiment with a blow dryer, it's best to use it on the lowest setting and carefully.

Fan

Don't place a fan so that it blows directly on the piece. A fan should circulate the air to ensure that there is no uneven drying and therefore cracking.

How Do You Know When Your Pottery Is Dry

The main factor to look out for in order to check that your pottery is dry is that the color of your clay turns lighter. Additionally the piece will weigh lighter because the clay will lose around 20% moisture if dried properly. A good test is to hold the clay against your skin - if it still feels cold then it is probably not dry. It should feel like room temperature if dry.

If you need any advice on how to prepare your clay for firing, please do not hesitate to contact our experts at Soul Ceramics who will be able to guide you.

Additional resources on pottery

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How To Dry Pottery Clay: Process, Tips and Techniques

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This article outlines ways to dry pottery effectively before it is fired and things to consider so that it does not crack or compromise its structure.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
When making pottery your clay goes through 7 different stages to get to the finished product. It's amazing how these particles stick together when they get wet and can be formed into endless shapes
and sizes, then fired to last thousands of years. There is no other art form quite like it. After going through all 7 stages of clay many times, I found each stage of the clay to be enjoyable in some way. I would like to share all the stages of clay with you plus a secret one I found the most satisfying...I think you will too.
1. Dry Clay Stage

Dry clay is made up of fine-particles that had been formed millions of years ago from volcanic ash. The most commonly used dry clay in pottery is called Ball Clay. Ball Clays usually contain quartz, titanium, mica, kaolinite, iron, and other minerals. There is also Kaolin China Clay, Red Clay, and Gold Art Fire Clay just to name a few.

Because the water is taken out of the clay, it's lighter and cost less to ship. Dry clay is also easier to store. You can store dry clay forever; it never starts to stink or go bad from other contaminants that may invade your wet clay. Dry clay allows you to modify your clay easier by adding things like different amounts of grog, fine sand, and colorants before you put it in water.

There are different ways to get dry clay; these are a few ways I know.

You can buy dry clay. When you buy dry clay it comes in powder form Just add the dry clay to water and mix really well then wedge it really well, and you are ready to go. There are many colors, textures, and cone sizes to choose from.

Another way I like a lot is recycled clay. Dry the scrap clay out completely then add it to a bucket of water. I like to break my clay up into tiny pieces with a hammer before I rehydrate it. This way the moisture goes back into the clay faster and more evenly. It's also fun to do.

You can go out and dig some up. Depending on where you live and how earthy you want to go. You can actually find different textures and colors of clay. There are Potter's that want to feel more connected to the earth and dig up there own clay. It's like growing your own vegetables and enjoying the harvest.

2. Slip Stage of Clay

The slip stage is created by adding water to your clay. The level of runniness depends on what you are doing with the slip. There are many ways you can use slip. Here are just a few.

Slip is the glue that holds the clay together when you're attaching handles, hand building, and adding other decorative pieces to your pottery. This is known as scoring and slipping (scratch criss-cross lines in the areas to be attached and apply slip). This slip should be the consistency of mixed sour cream. Your clay mixture can't be too stiff or runny.

Slip is great to decorate with. There are applicator bottles you can get with different size tips to make beautiful designs on your pottery. You can also add powdered colors like mason stain, which comes in pink, green, and blue just to name a few. Slip used for decorating also has the consistency of well-mixed sour cream unlike slip for molds.

There is also slip for molds, this slip you want to be runny. It should have the consistency of heavy cream because you are pouring the clay into a mold, so you don't want it as thick as a decorative slip.

It's a good idea to set a small bucket of slip on the side. It comes in handy while playing with clay you don't have to stop your project to make slip.

If the slip starts to dry out just add a little water to get it back to the consistency that you like to work with.

If you have slip that's been around for a while, you should add a touch of vinegar from time to time. This keeps your slip fresh.

A good clay to use for slip decorating would be a cone 10 white stoneware. This way you can fire at a higher temperature with any problems and add different colorants to the white clay if you wish to. The studio I go to has a bucket of white cone 10 slip they have had for years. They add water and a touch of vinegar as needed.

Remember when you are attaching clay or decorating, slip works best if it's not too runny and not too thick.

3. Plastic (Workable) Stage of Clay

The plastic stage is a fun stage to be in. This is where the clay hits the wheel or the slab roller. At this stage, your clay is malleable (flexible), and you are able to create something on the wheel or hand build. When the clay is at this stage, the shapes you can mold your clay into are endless. After this stage, the molding is over. You can trim, attach, and decorate, but the ability to move the clay around is gone. If you try your clay will start to crack.

How the clay feels at this stage is my favorite. Knowing how the clay should feel is very important. Too soft and you can't throw a cylinder up, she will collapse. The same goes for hand building; your clay will not stay up. Too hard and you will be fighting with the clay on the wheel or if you are hand building your clay will crack.

4. Leather Hard Stage of Clay

The leather hard stage is when the clay is hardened a little more so you can trim, add handles, and make other alterations before the clay gets too hard. The clay is called leather hard because it has the feel of soft leather. The clay has stiffened up enough to be to able handle it without marking it up with your fingers.

Your clay should be the right stage of leather hard. If it's too soft, the clay will be too mushy to trim properly, and the handles will not be able to stay attached to the mug or cup. If your clay gets too dry it will be very hard to put attachments on and merely impossible to trim. After I let my piece dry past leather hard a few times trimming was too difficult to do. I was careful not to let that happen again. If your clay is too soft that's ok you can wait a bit and let it dry some more. But if it's too hard, there is not much you do besides using sandpaper or a wet sponge for smoothing.

Wrapping your clay in plastic to slow down the drying time helps a lot if you don't have time to trim or decorate when your clay reaches the leather hard state. I have sealed my clay in a plastic bag and could trim a week later with no problem.

You can also have some fun with underglazing. This is the stage when you can Sgraffito, layered Sgraffito, Inlay (also known as Mishima), and Transfer pictures or patterns on your clay.

5. Bone Dry Stage of Clay

The bone dry stage is when the moisture is out of the clay and it's dry enough to bisque fire. This process can take at least a week even longer depending on the climate you live in. If it is very humid, you have to exercise patience. Getting your clay to the bone dry stage is very important. If you think it's dry, it's best to wait a little longer just to be safe.

Some potters will candle their pottery just to make sure it's dry. Candling is having your kiln super low to remove any moisture that may be in your piece so it doesn't explode in the kiln. My post about How Long Pottery Should Dry Before Firing will help you know when to bisque your pottery.

You can also apply underglaze to bone dry clay. When applying you want to apply 2 to 3 coats. Make sure each coat is totally dry before applying the next.

When placing bone dry clay in the kiln, you can have your pottery pieces touching each other unless you have applied underglaze to your pottery. If the underglaze piece touches other pottery, the underglaze color will transfer on to your other piece of pottery. That is why some potters prefer to underglaze after the bisque.

6. Bisqueware Stage of Clay

The bisque stage is when the clay is fired in the kiln between Cone 08 (1728F) and Cone 04 (1945F) to remove any chemically bonded water and impurities from the clay. This causes the clay to change permanently making it much harder but still porous enough to absorb the glazes nicely.

There are several ways of glazing at this stage, but first, you have to prepare your bisque ware. The best way to prepare your bisque pieces for glazing is to wipe them down with a damp sponge to remove any fingerprints, dirt, or dust. Then make sure your piece is dry before glazing.

Underglaze - You can apply underglaze at this stage also. If you brush clear glaze on you must be careful not to smudge the underglaze by letting it dry thoroughly before applying the clear glaze. You could also apply a light coat of hair spray on your underglaze or just dip or spray a clear coat on.

If you already put underglaze on your leather hard clay, you can go over it again if you missed a spot. Make sure the underglaze is totally dry if you want to apply a clear glaze.

Glazing - When applying your glazes you can dip it on, spray it on, brush it on, or all three. That is the fun of glazing. Your options and color selections seem endless. I watched our instructor dip a cup in glaze then brush another color on and then spray a little glaze on for a different effect. It's important to know when applying glaze you have to find the balance if you don't apply enough glaze it won't cover your pottery completely and if you apply too much, your glaze will run off your pottery. My article on How To Protect Your Kiln Shelf From Melting Glaze has some good tips on taking care of your kiln selves. Brush at least three coats of glaze on your pottery. The thickness of a t-shirt is a good rule of thumb.

7. Glaze Firing Stage of Clay

This stage is where the magic happens. The glazes you have applied melts to the pottery and vitrifies, creating beautiful colors and patterns. Waiting to see the results of the glazes you have applied is exciting.

The final fire can be done in different ways. If you are gas firing or electric firing the most important thing you need to know is temperature.
Low fire

If you are low firing, it is usually cone 04. You can fire higher or lower, but the average temperature for low fire clay is around 1800 degrees. If your clay is low fire and you fire at a higher temperature your pottery will melt in the kiln shelf, that's why it's so important to know what cone size you are working with.
Mid-fire

Mid fire is around 2250 degrees. Firing at cone 5 or 6. When choosing your clay and glaze make sure it says mid or high fire. Also, make sure it says cone 5-6, not 05 or 06. It's important to be aware of the zero before the number.
Zero Before a Number = Fire at Low Temperature.
High Fire

High fire, for the most part, is cone 10. Your kiln will be around 2380 degrees.

The clay has to be cone 10, or your piece will melt in your kiln. You can fire cone 10 it at a lower temperature but the clay will not vitrify (clay particles fuse together) and may not be waterproof.

You also need a cone 10 glaze. If your glaze does not say it can fire to cone 10, do NOT use. The glaze will just continue to melt all over your kiln shelf.

Now it's time to set your kiln to the proper temperature, put a 5 or 10-minute hold on it when it reaches peak temperature or none at all and fire it up. You will see the results of your work in about 12 to 20 hours, depending upon the size of your kiln, the rate of heat per hour and the cool down time. Now it's time to unload your kiln and behold the beauty of your creation.

The Secret 8th And Final Stage of Clay Is Enjoying Your Creation

Look at it, drink from it, or eat out of it. After working with your clay from stage 1 all the way to stage 7, it's wonderful to be able to admire and use your creation with all of its flaws and perfections. Also giving it or selling it to someone for them to enjoy. There is really something special about making pottery. While you don't get instant gratification while making a piece of pottery, each stage is unique unto its self. Which makes the long process fun and even more rewarding.

Without your creativity, that clay would still be sitting in the ground.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The 7 Stages of Clay - And a Forgotten Number 8 | Pottery Crafters

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
When making pottery your clay goes through 7 different stages to get to the finished product. It's amazing how these particles stick together when they get wet and can be formed into endless shapes and sizes, then fired to last thousands of years. There is no other art form quite like it.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Make a Pottery Mug, from Beginning to End.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Throwing and Turning a Pottery Bowl with Cross-sections — ASMR Version

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Make A Pottery Dinner Plate — Part One

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Learn everything you need to know about glazing ceramics and the basic pottery glazing techniques, including tips and tricks and common mistakes to avoid.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Basics of Ceramic Glazing: Types & Techniques

# data[].attributes.body
Trimming takes places during the drying process, when your clay is leather hard. This is how you trim any excess clay and add final touches before going in the kiln.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Trim Pots — Tips and Tricks — A Beginner's Guide

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to make handles - 4 different ways | Pottery 101

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Pottery Trimming & Carving Tools - Which to Buy? — Meesh Pottery

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Compare the best pottery loop tools for carving, sculpting, and trimming your clay creations. Discover top brands, features, and tips to choose the perfect loop or carving tool for your pottery projects.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How To Clean Your Potters Wheel - the easy way!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Whether you make your own clay from local materials or buy prepared clay, it's important to learn sensible strategies to keep your pottery clay properly stored- whether you're going to come back to it in a few hours or even a few years.

Because there are different storage options available depending on your budget, how much clay you have, and your available storage space, each artist tends to find the method that works best for them and their situation.

That said, there are two main ways to store clay. One is to tightly seal it in plastic to preserve the moisture content of the clay. The other is to store your clay in dry form and rehydrate it when you need it. Let's take a closer look.

How to Store Moist Clay

The best way to store your clay and keep it moist is by sealing it tightly in a thick plastic bag and placing it in a plastic storage container. This will help keep the moisture content of the clay and prevent it from becoming moldy. The biggest advantage to keeping your clay wet is that you can use the clay right away without any preparation. You don't need to take the time to rehydrate your clay; simply wedge what you need and get started.

You will need to check your stored moist clay periodically to make sure your clay is not drying out or growing mold-especially if you are storing a lot of clay for a long time. If the clay has dried at all, spray water inside the bag and the plastic container and close it back up.

How to Store Dry Clay

If you are not using your clay for a long period of time or have a large amount of clay, you can store it as dried clay. In order to store your clay dry, large pieces of moist clay should be sliced into smaller chunks with a wire cutter and allowed to dry out before storage. This will make it easier to rehydrate later.

You can keep the dry clay in a plastic bag or plastic container with a lid until you are ready to rehydrate it. When you are ready to use the clay, break up any large pieces, add water and wait until the clay absorbs the water, and then mix to an even consistency. The clay will be a thick slip and will need to dry on plaster until it is wedgable. When it returns to a workable consistency, wedge it is really, really well to remove air, and the clay is ready to use. Note: always make sure you wear a dust mask when working with dry clay.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Whether you make your own clay from local materials or buy prepared clay, it's important to learn sensible strategies to keep your pottery clay properly stored- whether you're going to come back to it in a few hours or even a few years.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.provider_name
Bailey Ceramic Supplies & Pottery Equipment

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Bailey Pottery – Your Trusted Source for Pottery Glazes

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Enhance your ceramic creations with the finest glazes from Bailey Pottery. Browse our collection and find the perfect glaze to complement your work. Enjoy fast shipping and excellent customer service as you explore our range of high-quality pottery glazes.

# data[].attributes.body
Have a pottery collection that is starting to take up space? Share it with the world!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Start Selling Your Handmade Pottery Online

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
I started making pottery around five years ago, mainly just in the evenings and in the last few months I’ve started working one full day a week in my studio. I’m just going to talk about selling pottery online here as that’s where I have the most experience.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
🏵 Welcome to r/Pottery! 🏵 -------------------------Before posting please READ THE RULES!!!!-----------------We have a Wiki with Frequently Asked Questions - before you post a question that gets asked a lot, please check here first.---------------We have a Discord server come and chat with other clay enthusiasts! -----------------------Please enjoy this *potter to potter* sub for the creation of handmade kiln-fired clay! For other clay types, visit r/clay

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Normal Potter's Hours Online Shopping Celebration Events Locations Potter's Portal