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The culture and roots of Catalonia live on in our cuisine.

The legacy of other civilisations, the climate, the landscape and traditions. Some examples of Catalan cuisine associations:

- Barceloneta Cuina: love of gastronomy, the product, a deep-rooted tradition. The intention of this association is to highlight, defend, recover and promote the cuisine and produce of this seafaring district.

- Col·lectiu de Cuina La Ràpita - Delta de l'Ebre: aims to transform economic sectors by improving the quality of their services through creativity and innovation to give tourism and gastronomy the value they deserve as ways of conveying the area's history and culture.

- Girona Bons Fogons (Good Kitchen Stove): cultural tourism is combined with gastronomic tourism, thereby showing that apart from impressive historical heritage, the city of Girona has all the ingredients to become a first class gastronomic destination.

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summary:

French cuisine has changed in the way that its:
- largely influenced by its immigrants, such as greeks, israelis, etc.
- an example of this can be seen in one of france's best restaurants such as Restaurant le Chateaubriand (Israeli inspired), Lao Lane Xang (Chinese inspired), and Khai Tri (Vietnamese inspired)
-

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WHEN I LIVED ON Rue de la Roquette in Paris in the late 1990s, I subsisted largely on grecs, the local word for kebab sandwiches. A grec is a mound of sizzling, cumin-y doner meat topped with harissa-spiked white sauce that is crammed into a griddled flatbread and served with a clutch of greasy French fries, which are often stuffed right into the sandwich.

At the time, I was a broke 22-year-old punk musician. I also ate spring rolls, falafels and couscous, like every other local I knew. Even back then, the capital was far more diverse than it was made out to be; and even then, it seemed discordant that such a clearly multicultural place was struggling to integrate its booming immigrant population.

These days, however, integration is everywhere - at least on the plate. Many of the most exciting French chefs are incorporating foreign ingredients into their repertoire with a newfound creativity and confidence. Now, you can find couscous on Michelin-starred menus and tagines at traditional brasseries, all of which would have been unthinkable not so long ago. The Parisian food world is finally starting to reflect the true spirit of the city as it's been for years: a place that is gloriously, unabashedly pluraliste.

PARIS IS AMONG the most multicultural cities in the world: More than one in three residents of the greater metropolitan area are either immigrants or the children of immigrants. Yet in many realms, France has been limited by its own xenophobia. One of the few places where intercultural encounters do in fact take place in the capital is in restaurants. Take Miznon, where the Israeli chef presents his boeuf bourguignon in a pita; or the small Kurdish place on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis called Urfa Durum, where the flatbreads are baked to order. Or, best of all, Le Baratin in the multiethnic (Moroccan plus Southeast Asian plus Congolese, to name a few) Belleville neighborhood, a restaurant beloved by the city's chefs, natural wine makers, bohemians, writers and painters. Here, the Argentine-born chef Raquel Carena's food mirrors her neighborhood's complicated makeup, with dishes like traditionally French roast Lozère lamb alongside Arab-Sicilian fennel contorni and Moorish-Spanish quail escabèche. Le Baratin's food gives diners a romantic, even hopeful vision of Paris: one that's open-minded, inclusive and as respectful of the past as it is forward-thinking.

That's the first development that's changing the Paris food scene. The second is what's happening to the native cuisine itself. For much of the 20th century, the purveyors of la gastronomie Française wanted nothing to do with outside influences. But these days, French cuisine and its champions are seizing the opportunity to innovate.

YOU'LL FIND EXAMPLES of an evolved definition of French food at Le Chateaubriand, one of the ''new French'' restaurants that's consistently ranked among the top tables in the world. The room is a classical 1950s-style bistro on Avenue Parmentier in Belleville with a branché, hyper-fashionable crowd. Its chef, Inaki Aizpitarte, who was born in France after his Basque parents escaped the Franco dictatorship and who learned to cook in Israel, says that assimilating immigrant cultures into French cuisine is ''mon quotidien, quoi'': his daily reality. He characterizes his cooking style as ''cuisine métissée'' - mixed up and miscegenated.

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WHEN I LIVED ON Rue de la Roquette in Paris in the late 1990s, I subsisted largely on grecs, the local word for kebab sandwiches. A grec is a mound of sizzling, cumin-y doner meat topped with harissa-spiked white sauce that is crammed into a griddled flatbread and served with a clutch of greasy French fries, which are often stuffed right into the sandwich.

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Gallo Pinto (beans and rice) Recipe

1 lb (450 gr.) Black beans. Fresh are best but most likely you’ll find them dried.
8-10 sprigs cilantro (coriander leaf) fresh or frozen, not dried!
1 small or medium onion
½ small red or yellow sweet pepper (optional)
3 cups (700 ml) chicken broth or water
2 cups (350 ml) white rice
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) salt
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil
1-3 Tablespoon oil to fry the Gallo Pinto

https://costa-rica-guide.com/travel/food/gallo-pinto-recipe-costa-rica/

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·      El Gallo Pinto – traditional dish of black beans and rice, that became and embraces as a national symbol of Costa Rice

·      In the 19th century rice became an important staple in Costa Rica

·      Rice and beans were starting to be the main diets when migrant workers from China, Italy and the Afro-Caribbeans came to work in the railroad construction in mid century.

·      The dish was popular in rural and urban households as it was good nutritionally and inexpensive, which led to recognition of the national dish.

·      The great depression helped gallo pinto gain middle class acceptance

·      Rice and beans have in them an affective signification: they are a means to validate existing social relations.

·      Forms of preparation, methods of eating, times of consumption, utensils for eating, and the company in which foods are shared are all indicators of social relations.

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The audience as well as the authors of the English-language cookbooks produced in India in the last two decades are middle-class urban women

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Cooking in India is deeply embedded in both moral and medical beliefs and prescriptions

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India's construction of a national cuisine was postindustrial and postcolonial

In contrast, cook books in the preindustrial world were best documented in civilisations such as Europe, China and Middle East

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interesting that  cookbooks are typically 'the literature of exile' ' of nostalgia and loss'

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interesting that  cookbooks are typically 'the literature of exile' ' of nostalgia and loss'

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written by Indians abroad, or at least away from the region that they are writing about

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rice and beans started out as an economical, practical, nutritional ( kind of) staple
but "was converted into a reference of identity for a group of workers forging their daily subsistence"

"their taste, the company with which they were consumed and the schedule, were conducive to the construction of a sense of belonging and sharing related to an alimentary pattern"

a principal plate of the majority (often seen as a poor man's choice) spread to the peak of the social pyramid as they found other ways (both gastronomic and otherwise) to distinguish their class

food shortages were common in the 18th /19th century (poor farming methods, natural disaster, small scale production, mass exports) but then the import of rice, beans and maize took off
coffee export took off and allowed for the rice to be cheaply imported (once considered foreign)

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in the process of writing a cookbook, Appadurai notes the 'complex compromises' that have to occur for a variety of reasons, depending on the position of the author related to the cuisine being spoken about
--when written from insiders, try to sanitize things that might be unfamiliar or even disgusting to an outsider
--outsiders who write these books take their inspiration from these paired down versions of the original, and propagate them

--tension between true authenticity and the 'urge to disseminate and popularize the most easily understood and appreciated items'

in proclaiming unity in diversity of India's regionality, authenticity could said to be sacrificed

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Pampille was a defender of tradition, distaste for anything contemporary. A culinary country would not be realised by extravagant creations of celebrated (male) chefs in fancy restaurants. The familiar dishes made every day in ordinary kitchens by ordinary cooks held more tradition and authenticity.

Pampille assigned national status to some dishes that cut across class as well as region.

The meal has to be consumed in the right spot, 'you really have to be born there' to enjoy the food. The roster of winners of the Bocuse d'Or confirms that you do not need to cook in France, use French products, or be French to cook French.

We always seek connection between taste and place e.g. we want French food to be recognisably French, etc.

Imagined community?

Today, chefs travels vast distances to learn and compete with their cooking skills e.g. the Bocuse d'Or competition in Lyon - aspiring culinary countries vaunt their edible traditions and indigenous foods to promote both tourism and exports.

French culinary techniques continue to play a big role in training chefs around the world. Competitive cooking is also a French thing. French cuisine has long drawn great strength from its capacity to translate the exotic into familiar terms.

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- It took India a much longer period of time to develop a national cuisine in comparison to other countries.
- The gustatory approach to food and the production of cookbooks were poorly developed.
- The text also discusses the role of women in India. Many cookbooks were developed for middle class women and many of them work.
- New cookbooks are developed for these working women in a manner that values efficiency, economy and utility rather than authenticity and nutritional value.
- These cookbooks brought recipes from multiple regions in order to provide people with a more diverse repertoire of recipes.

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Reading C: How to make a National Cuisine:Cookbooks in Contemporary India  Cook books:  -literature of complex civilization, tell unusual cultural tales  -Combine sturdy pragmatic virtues -reflect shifts in the boundaries of edibility  -logic of meals,exigencies of the household budget, structure of domestic ideologies  -Standerise regime of the kitchen   French hauted cuisine: distance themselves from the local sources In China and Italy: regional cuisine are hauted cuisines  In India:  Construction of national cuisine post-industrial , postcolonial process Deeply embodied in moral and medical beliefs and prescriptions  Cuisine today, national cuisine-regional cuisine play important part Social world of the new Indian cuisine  The audience and authors of th English language cookbooks produced India are middle class urban woman Middle class: Civil servants, teachers,doctors,Lawyers,clerks, and businessman, Film starts, scientiest and military personnel.  Exchange recipes orally  Cook books: emphasize reslove shortage of time and money.  Wealthy familes begain to socialize in resturants and dine out  Food blender and spice grinder are more regualy seen at homes.  Culinary text and standard in indian histroy;  Food is closely tied to moral and social stutis of individuals and groups  Eating together is a carefully conducted excise in the reproduction of intimacy. Exclude a person from eating events is distance , or enmity.  Food: cement the relationship between men and Gods , men and themselves.  Fasting : mark of asceticism or piety: Hindu thoughts  Taboos surrending food is  2 cultural factors made it diffcult for a premodern Hindu high cuisine to emerge.  Local variation in custom must be respected by those in power.  royal duty consist in protecting such variation unless it violated social and cosmic law.  Humble traditions: Hindu culinary traditions stayed oral in the mode of transmisison.  Domestic in their locus,  Regional in scope  No powerful impetus toward the evolution of a pan indian Hundu cuisine.  Arrival of Mughals first half of the 16th century.  Culinary practice took a step forward.  Mughal admin manual: "Ain-I-Akbari" contains recipe section  Likelt the culinary tradition of the princely house  f early modern North India were influeced by the practices of Mughal court.  Mughlai cuisine  Royal cuisine emerged from the interaction of the Turko Afghan culinary traditions of the Mughal rulers with the peasant food of the North Indian plains. Coz: diffuision through royal courts of North India, cuisine of reference for the great resturants of northern and western Indian.  Mughai cuisine become synonymous , particullay foreigners.  Important step repersent Indian cuisine.  Mainly restricted to the north and west of subcontinent  Not much significance from the southern states.  Mughlao and colonial cuisine have been incorporated into a broader concepttion of indian food.  National cuisine has develped recently in spite of a relative  

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Reading C: How to make a National Cuisine:Cookbooks in Contemporary India  Cook books:  -literature of complex civilization, tell unusual cultural tales  -Combine sturdy pragmatic virtues -reflect shifts in the boundaries of edibility  -logic of meals,exigencies of the household budget, structure of domestic ideologies  -Standerise regime of the kitchen   French hauted cuisine: distance themselves from the local sources In China and Italy: regional cuisine are hauted cuisines  In India:  Construction of national cuisine post-industrial , postcolonial process Deeply embodied in moral and medical beliefs and prescriptions  Cuisine today, national cuisine-regional cuisine play important part Social world of the new Indian cuisine  The audience and authors of th English language cookbooks produced India are middle class urban woman Middle class: Civil servants, teachers,doctors,Lawyers,clerks, and businessman, Film starts, scientiest and military personnel.  Exchange recipes orally  Cook books: emphasize reslove shortage of time and money.  Wealthy familes begain to socialize in resturants and dine out  Food blender and spice grinder are more regualy seen at homes.  Culinary text and standard in indian histroy;  Food is closely tied to moral and social stutis of individuals and groups  Eating together is a carefully conducted excise in the reproduction of intimacy. Exclude a person from eating events is distance , or enmity.  Food: cement the relationship between men and Gods , men and themselves.  Fasting : mark of asceticism or piety: Hindu thoughts  Taboos surrending food is  2 cultural factors made it diffcult for a premodern Hindu high cuisine to emerge.  Local variation in custom must be respected by those in power.  royal duty consist in protecting such variation unless it violated social and cosmic law.  Humble traditions: Hindu culinary traditions stayed oral in the mode of transmisison.  Domestic in their locus,  Regional in scope  No powerful impetus toward the evolution of a pan indian Hundu cuisine.  Arrival of Mughals first half of the 16th century.  Culinary practice took a step forward.  Mughal admin manual: "Ain-I-Akbari" contains recipe section  Likelt the culinary tradition of the princely house  f early modern North India were influeced by the practices of Mughal court.  Mughlai cuisine  Royal cuisine emerged from the interaction of the Turko Afghan culinary traditions of the Mughal rulers with the peasant food of the North Indian plains. Coz: diffuision through royal courts of North India, cuisine of reference for the great resturants of northern and western Indian.  Mughai cuisine become synonymous , particullay foreigners.  Important step repersent Indian cuisine.  Mainly restricted to the north and west of subcontinent  Not much significance from the southern states.  Mughlao and colonial cuisine have been incorporated into a broader concepttion of indian food.  National cuisine has develped recently in spite of a relative  

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- politicising the kitchen
la cuisiniere republicaine directly attaches the political to the quotidian
- giving household cooks a way to participate in political/legislative activities at a time when they are excluded
- the revolution supposed to represent the uprising of the lower class, to denounce luxurious spendings of royalty and femininity was used to connote economy, simplicity - but did that happen? ie the bourgeoisie wanting to emulate the aristocratic banquets they had tried to abolish, culinary terms did not change
- Trugot made steps towards equalising work opportunities, but was restrained by social understandings of that it meant to be a female 'labourer' (perceived physical/mental incapability)
- confused

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Thoughts/summary of 'The Claw at the Table'

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Thoughts/summary of 'The Claw at the Table'

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He would praise the suppliers of the food and had an interest in where things came from. He gave everyone an opportunity to present their food or produce. He would critique it and give them another chance to resubmit for re-evaluation if it wasn't good.

He explored the possibilities presented by colour at the table - leads on to his expression of using all senses to eat. All senses must be used to be reflectful and thoughtful of the food.

He wrote a guide to the gastronomic arts as he thought the bourgeois knew little about fine dining and he wanted it to be available to everyone. It was similar to how Artusi wanted to different regional foods to be available to everyone. He ensured this survival of more elite dishes after the French Revolution by introducing them to a wider audience.

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- A book promoting 'republican cooking'; promised to privilege female cooks rather than male (focuses on recipes of potatoes)

- During the revolutionary era, masculinity are connoted to luxury and aristocracy, whilst femininity to simplicity and economy
- between 1789 - 1805, 9 cookbooks were published promoting cuisine characterised by thrift, patriotism and female cooks
-also confused

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Perhaps, Escoffier's emphasis on army style organisation, reflecting increasing militarisation occuring in the world in the run up to World War i??>
Just a thought

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Any other agendas involved in writing le guide?

--certainly no nationalist agenda like Artusi, France was a stable state with a stable national identity
--is it an agendaless text? Is that even possible?
--Should Escoffier's guide be presented rather as a scientific textbook a la Newton's Principa and d'Alembert's Encyclopedie? Even the latter texts have elitist agendas, especially Encylopedie...

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Who is his target audience?
--other chefs at the time
--an esoteric guide meant only for the eyes of culinary professional? Or for the household (a la Artusi, aiming towards the middle class of Italy

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Escoffier- introduced scientific principles into cooking 'cooking' became 'gastronomy'

-difference in presentation between Artusi and Escoffier
--Escoffier ( Methodical, scientific, inscrupulous)
--Artusi (Comedic story teller, casual, friendly)

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"The Birth of the Recipe"

-interesting title when Escoffier's Guide Culinaire was made over 10 years after Artusi's compendium?
--why Escoffier held in much wider regard than Artusi? ( Perhaps standing of French cuisine vs Italian cuisine) (Perhaps, different emphasises of different cuisines, French and technicality and precision, Italian with high quality local ingrediants cooked simply and with love)

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- Auguste Escoffier was a French chef and culinary writer who revolutionised the way we eat
- He changed what was a medieval practice into a written one, making cooking and different dishes accessible to the entire world
- Focused on simplicity and 'codified' cooking by giving a step-by-step guide instructions (ie. a quarter of a teaspoon and not 'a pinch of this and that')
- Allows all chefs around the world to have a 'manual' and recipes to follow
- Created regularity and hierachy in the kitchen: chef, sous-chefs and where all other cooks will be situated within the kitchen

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'Gastronomic meal of the French' UNESCO http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/gastronomic-meal-of-the-french-00437

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Gastronomic meal of the French - intangible heritage - Culture Sector - UNESCO

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Website of the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage

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Gollner, A. 'The New Nouvelle Cuisine' New York Times

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Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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Roser I Puig, M. 'What's cooking in Catalonia?'

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Official Spanish Tourism campaign http://www.spain.info

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Tourism in Spain |Tourist information about Spain | spain.info USA

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Tourist information in Spain: art, culture, museums, monuments, beaches, cities, parties, tours, cuisine and nature in Spain | spain.info USA

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The Catalan Generalitat website http://www.catalunya.com/what-to-do/savour/gastronomy-with-a-past-with-the-cuisine-associations

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Appadurai, A. 'How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemporary India'

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Vega Jimenez, P. 'El Gallo pinto: Afro-Caribbean rice and beans conquer the Costa Rican national'

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'The Birth of the Recipe' National Geographic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leamWS368L8

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The Birth of the Recipe | National Geographic

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Davis, J. 'To make a revolutionary cuisine: Gender and politics in French kitchens 1789–1815', pp. 301-310 only

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Parkhurst Ferguson, P. 'Culinary nationalism'

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Kaufman, C. 'The Claw at the table: The gastronomic criticism of Grimod de la Reynière'

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