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The future of fashion is here, ladies, and it's more weightless than chiffon, more illuminating than lamé, and more breathtaking than any red carpet gown you've ever seen...

Artist Atton Conrad has just created these gorgeous garments made entirely of light--or more specifically, photons, according to io9.com, which first discovered the frocks. It's a unique photographic technique that's already been employed to do "light painting," but Conrad took it one step further into design. Here's how he describes the process: "It started with light trails, but grew far beyond that, as I developed my methodology and custom designed 'light brushes' I realized that the techniques could give me incredibly fine control over light and texture, to an unique, almost hyperreal result. I have always been known for my classic lighting, and still take great pleasure in it, but this took it in a completely fresh direction. I love technology, I have used photoshop for over a decade, but there is a certain quality I want to create that is unobtainable by the usual route alone."

Check out even more awesome photo-manipulated light dresses at Atton Conrad's website, then tell us what you think! Pretty awesome, huh?

PLUS...more stuff you have to read to believe!

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The future of fashion is here, ladies, and it's more weightless than chiffon, more illuminating than lamé, and more breathtaking than any red carpet gown you've ever seen... Artist Atton Conrad has just created these gorgeous garments made entirely of light--or more specifically, photons, according to io9.com, which first discovered the frocks.

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Light Painting Artist Profile: Jason Rinehart

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Light Painting Brushes Brand Ambassador Jason Rinehart has been creating his light painting work since 2004, he dedicated himself to the art form after being inspired by a documentary film on fellow Brand Ambassador Denis Smith. Jason's Light Painting Photography works takes you on a journey into a dream world that he creates along with his favorite models, his three lovely daughters. Check out the full interview with Jason below and follow the links at the bottom of the page for even more of his imaginative imagery!

What are your favorite type of light paintings to create and why?My favorite type of light paintings are the ones I get to spend time with my daughters creating. Being able to express myself through light painting has given me the opportunity to inspire my girls and share time together with them, those are my favorite light paintings to do.

What is your favorite environment to shoot in?My favorite environment to shoot light painting images in are those ordinary spaces that I can create something within that space as if someone was seeing a dream. There's no boundaries to how creative you want to be.

[powr-media-gallery id=d861f50b_1488066257]

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Light Painting Photographer Jason Rinehart

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Light Painting Brushes Brand Ambassador Jason Rinehart has been creating his light painting work since 2004, he dedicated himself to the art form after being inspired by a documentary film on fellow Brand Ambassador Denis Smith. Jason's Light Painting Photography works takes you on a journey into a dream world that he creates along with his favorite models, his three lovely daughters.

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How To Light Paint With a Cell Phone Camera, Light Painting Photography Tutorial

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5 Long Exposure Photography Tips | 5 Quick Tips

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5 Light Painting Photography Tips with Susan Magnano

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10 LIGHT PAINTING PHOTOGRAPHY IDEAS ( tutorial )

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HOW I GOT THE SHOT | Light Painting with Ryan Sims

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HOW I GOT THE SHOT | Light Painting with Ryan Sims

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HOW I GOT THE SHOT | Light Painting with Ryan Sims

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LED Backgrounds : Take and Make Great Photography with Gavin Hoey

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Taking pictures at night can be quite challenging for beginners. It requires you to manipulate ISO, aperture, and shutter speed among many other things. Follow these eight useful techniques to help you shoot in the dark. Once you learn the basics, you'll find out that night photography is really fun. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll be rewarded with stunning images you'll be proud of.

01. A sturdy tripod is a must

Before delving into night photography, you need a sturdy tripod. Taking photographs in dim conditions requires long exposures, which means your camera has to be steady at all times. Get one that can handle a heavy camera, preferably made of aluminum (or carbon fiber if you have more money) since it's both light and durable.

Photo by Diego Hernandez

Use your tripod's bubble spirit level to determine whether your tripod is straight or not. Alternatively, you can turn on your camera's virtual horizon (typically found in the camera menu) to make sure your equipment is leveled.

Also, consider buying a mini tripod for tricky angles. Sometimes, the best vantage points for your night shots may be in places where regular tripods can't fit. With a mini tripod, you can shoot beautiful night shots from the ground or even a table top.

02. Use manual focus

Autofocus in modern cameras may be highly reliable, but it's still not foolproof. Its weakness is especially evident when taking pictures at night, where your camera struggles to adjust because it's dark. Using manual focus ensures your camera doesn't randomly focus on any part of the scene you're photographing.

Turn your manual focus to infinity (∞ symbol on your lens). To ensure that the scene you're photographing is crisp, turn on the Live View Mode and press the Zoom-in button (the one with the magnifying lens icon). Magnify the subject you want to be in focus, then adjust until it's pin sharp.

Don't switch on the autofocus function any time during the photo shoot. Otherwise, it will override anything you did manually. This technique may take a while to get used to, but it's more reliable than your autofocus in poor lighting.

03. Use low ISO if possible

Using high ISO seems to make sense when shooting at night, but doing so also increases the noise in your images. The newest high-end cameras these days are so advanced, they allow you to take noiseless pictures at ridiculously high ISO settings (up to ISO 3200 or more). However, for most consumer cameras with limited light sensitivity range, sticking to a lower ISO is the most practical approach.

Learn the limits of your camera's ISO levels. To do this, take some low light test shots with different ISO settings. Examine the photos and find out at which ISO level it becomes too noisy. If it looks unusable at ISO 1600, then stick to settings lower than that.

Just because your camera can shoot up to ISO 25,000 doesn't mean you should use it. Since you're using a tripod, It's safe to keep your ISO low. Instead of bumping up the ISO, use slower shutter speeds and wider apertures, instead. ISO 100 may be impractical for night photography, but ISO 400, 800, or even ISO 1600 should be enough in most situations.

04. Shoot RAW

JPEG is the perfect file format for most casual photographers since they don't take up too much space on your memory card. JPEG files can also be uploaded without being converted into another file. However, this file format also compresses your image files drastically, making it problematic when you're shooting scenes with high dynamic range.

When shooting at night, switch your image files to RAW in your camera's menu. RAW files take up a lot of space on your memory card, and your images need to be edited afterward, but at least the quality of each image is preserved.

RAW is the best option to avoid grainy pictures due to low light and post-processing. Unlike JPEG, RAW files maintain their quality even after post-processing. After editing your image file, you can always convert a RAW file to any format you want, including JPEG or PNG.

05. Take test shots

Unlike taking photos in the daytime, night photography requires you to be more methodical. You can't simply press the shutter when you're shooting in low light situations. You need to know the exact settings to use for your camera, and to do that, you need to take some test shots.

Taking test shots lets you to experiment with different creative shots. If you're wondering if it's possible to photograph light streaks, then tinker with the settings to figure out how you can achieve the shot you want. You can also try various perspectives to make your image more interesting.

It also allows you to fine tune your camera settings. If your initial settings produced a dark picture, then adjust it again until you find the correct exposure. Play around with different ISO levels, apertures, and shutter speeds. First, take a regular photograph in either Aperture or Speed Priority. Take note of the aperture and shutter speed settings, then adjust incrementally until you find the ideal exposure. If you want a quicker, more refined method, you can try also try bracketing your shots.

06. Do bracket exposures

It can be challenging to nail the perfect exposure when taking pictures at night. Minimize guesstimating your settings by bracketing your shots. This technique involves taking a series of photographs at different exposure settings. Each picture you take incrementally gets brighter or darker. Ideally, one of those photos will give you the exposure that you want.

You can bracket your exposure either manually or automatically. For manual bracketing, set your camera to either Aperture Priority or Speed Priority. Take one regular photo, then use the Exposure Compensation button (the button with +/- symbol) in the subsequent images to adjust the exposure. Automatic Bracketing function is found in your camera's Shooting Menu.

Note: An example of an HDR image.

Apart from giving you a selection of exposures in-camera, you can also use the bracketed pictures to create High Dynamic Range (HDR) images. By combining several images in an editing tool, this technique recreates the exposure range and the details that a regular camera is unable to capture.

07. Shoot in Aperture Priority Mode for static subjects

Photo by Benjamin Hung

If you don't yet fully understand how Manual Mode works, then feel free to use Aperture Priority. Shooting in this mode lets you choose the aperture you want and automatically selects the shutter speed.

Aperture Priority is the quickest way to take pictures at night. Once you set your camera to this mode and choose a wide aperture, you're ready to shoot. As long as you don't have moving subjects, this mode is the safest way to take nighttime photos.

It's also perfect for shooting static scenes like buildings and landscapes. However, since it doesn't let you change the shutter speed manually, it's hard to know whether moving subjects (such as people or cars) in your photo will be blurry or sharp. If you want more control in photographing moving objects, then you need to switch to Manual Mode or Speed Priority Mode.

08. Play with different shutter speeds

If you want to capture moving objects like the cars in the image above, then switch to Shutter Priority. Just select the shutter speed, and the camera automatically selects the aperture.

This mode helps you produce impressive light streaks and dreamy landscapes at night. Once again, test shots are necessary to achieve the effect that you want to create. To shoot colorful trails, you can set your camera to low shutter speeds (from 1/30 down to 30 seconds). Just keep in mind that the slower the shutter speed, the longer the light trails.

Using the widest aperture setting for long exposures isn't necessary. Sometimes, the combination of really slow shutter speeds and wide aperture can overexpose an image. You'd be surprised how much light your camera gathers even in dimly lit environments. When you're in Shutter Priority Mode, just look at your camera's selected aperture, and you'll see that it can be as small as f/22 for an exposure of a few seconds long.

Shutter Priority is also perfect for photographing the night sky. Typical exposure times for photographing stars is between 10 seconds to 30 seconds. Remember that the stars move across the sky, so if you expose your shot long enough, you'll see start seeing star trails.

Note: Star trails can be achieved by using Bulb Mode as well.

09. Experiment with Bulb Mode

Photo by Federico Beccari

The longest shutter speed for most cameras is about 30 seconds. However, sometimes you'll find yourself in situations where 30 seconds isn't enough to make a proper exposure. That's when Bulb Mode comes in. This function allows you to open the shutter as long as you press the camera button.

In most cameras, Bulb is typically found after 30" in Manual Mode. Using Bulb Mode effectively overrides any automatic functions set by the camera, so you have to be comfortable using Manual Mode to use it. (Above, photographer Kris actually used a GoPro, setting it to 30seconds, stacking about 1400 photos, and resulting in the awe-striking photo.)

Since you'll be opening the shutter for more than 30 seconds, select a larger f-stop like f/8, f/11, or even f/22 for exposures that last a few minutes. Using a smaller aperture lessens the chances of overexposing your shot. For extremely long exposure times, you can use the lowest ISO possible for your camera. Like all the other modes discussed in this article, take some test shots and adjust accordingly until you get the shot that you want.

Bulb Mode requires more confidence to use, but it also allows you to experiment freely. Because it lets you expose an image without any time constraints, it's perfect for "light painting" where you can "scribble" or "draw" in the air using light sources such as a flashlight.

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9 night photography techniques to capture detailed scenes with limited lighting - Learn

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Taking pictures at night can be quite challenging for beginners. It requires you to manipulate ISO, aperture, and shutter speed among many other things. Follow these eight useful techniques to help you shoot in the dark. Once you learn the basics, you’ll find out that night photography is really fun.

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Spectacular flares, exhilarating explosions and dazzling displays of pyrotechnics - few can resist watching colorful fireworks light up the night sky as part of the grand finale of a holiday celebration. Photographers and revelers alike naturally reach for their cameras to capture the mix of bright sparks and light trails.

Learning how to photograph fireworks is a fun opportunity to grow as a creative photographer. Working with a Canon EOS Rebel simplifies the process of taking pictures of fireworks, allowing you to make discoveries and capture memories while still staying in the moment.

Find the Perfect Vantage Point

Large firework displays can be viewed far beyond the launch zone, giving photographers plenty of options for fantastic vantage points. It's always a clever idea to scout the location around the fireworks launch zone in advance to identify the best angles to photograph the show and determine which lenses you'll need. For vantage points closer to the launch zone, opt for a standard zoom lens like the EF 24-105mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM or EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM. Seek out higher ground for full, unobstructed views, preferably upwind from potential smoke created by the pyrotechnics. Depending on your surroundings, consider escaping the crowds to stake out a spot at a nearby rooftop patio or accessible balcony and switch to the EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM telephoto zoom lens.

Set the Scene

Fireworks photography offers rare opportunities to play with unusual framing and compositions. Look for ways to incorporate the cityscape or landmarks into your firework compositions. Using the scenery around the fireworks zone provides context and adds dimension to your photos. Silhouettes of fellow revelers will provide a sense of perspective and depth to the scene.

Camera Settings for Fireworks

To capture the light trails from the fireworks as clearly as possible, you'll want to avoid extensive use of your camera's autofocus (AF) system. Set the lens' focus switch to AF to activate autofocus and acquire the focus during the first firework bursts, then set the switch to MF (Manual focus) to maintain the camera's focal distance. For the best results when attempting to photograph as many rocket bursts as possible, keep your camera position stationary during the show

Use Slow Shutter Speeds

Whether photographing the bright lights of a big city or a dark sky illuminated by dazzling fireworks, the key to high-quality nighttime photography is proper exposure. Long exposure times let enough ambient light in while capturing the duration of individual firework explosions. Each burst can vary in size and duration, which can range from two to ten seconds, so a little guesswork is required in choosing the right shutter speed to best capture the light trails. If you have a Canon lens with Image Stabilization (IS), IS will work effectively with shutter speeds faster than 1 full second (such as ½ second, ¼ second, and so on).
Shooting in the Bulb mode on the EOS Rebel allows for exposure lengths longer than 30 seconds, keeping the camera's sensor exposed as long as the shutter button or remote shutter release is pressed. Before the show begins, set the mode dial to M (Manual) and then turn the main dial to the left to set the shutter speed to Bulb mode. Working in Bulb mode is particularly useful in capturing the phenomenal bursts of the grand finale. The key to using Bulb mode is to keep the camera as stable as possible to help reduce blur. Use a tripod or a bench, railing, or any other suitable surface to steady your camera.

Keep in mind that bursts early in the show may be the clearest, so take advantage of getting those shots. Depending on location and the size of the event, firework displays can go on for five minutes up to half an hour.

Capture the Excitement

Great fireworks photography captures the energy and excitement of displays. Fireworks often evoke emotional responses from people, especially small children. After snapping several shots of the sky, enhance your photo essay with crowd reactions. Switch to the Night Portrait setting to catch the fireworks casting its glow on a child's face as they watch with awe and delight. You might discover other moments, such as a couple getting engaged or tender embrace between friends. The built-in flash will fire automatically in the Night Portrait setting, so use it only for close-up reaction shots. Be sure to switch back to Bulb mode when you resume taking straight fireworks shots.

Accept the Unexpected

Firework displays are dynamic and exciting, but the shows can also be unpredictable and subject to uncontrollable factors. The longer the show, the more smoke may gather in the air on nights with light wind conditions. Without a steady breeze, smoke and haze can collect around the fireworks zone, which can compromise image quality.

It's likely that environmental factors may ruin an otherwise perfect shot. You might get caught up in watching the show that you discover a missed photo op. But it's possible you'll walk away with plenty of spectacular shots, even if by sheer luck. Check your photos periodically during the show and make adjustments as you go along.

Photographing fireworks is challenging, but it provides a great opportunity to learn how to work with low light and movement on the fly. Attend seasonal, nightly or weekly firework displays to experiment with settings and timing and to hone your pyrotechnic photography techniques. With practice, you'll find the balance between documenting and experiencing the display - capturing the moment and being in the moment.

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Photographing Fireworks: Capture the Moment

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Spectacular flares, exhilarating explosions and dazzling displays of pyrotechnics - few can resist watching colorful fireworks light up the night sky as part of the grand finale of a holiday celebration. Photographers and revelers alike naturally reach for their cameras to capture the mix of bright sparks and light trails.

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iPhone photo trick: Take stunning long exposure pics with no extra apps or equipment

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iPhone photo trick: Take stunning long exposure pics with no extra apps or equipment

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Article

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Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The iPhone 11 Pro's triple camera array takes some of the best images you can get from a phone, and even the 's single camera captures amazing images that belie its affordable price. But hidden inside these phones, specifically ones launched after the iPhone 6, is a creative trick that lets you transform your everyday images into dreamy long exposure shots.

Read: iPhone 12 Pro Max camera: Why this pro photographer is super excited

Get more out of your tech

A long exposure photograph is any image where the shutter has been intentionally left open long enough to blur the motion in the image. Look up pictures of waterfalls and you'll undoubtedly see images where the raging torrent of water has been smoothed out into this otherworldly flow -- that's a long exposure image.

To take this sort of image with a DSLR camera, you usually need a tripod to keep the camera steady and a filter that blocks out light. This is often required because leaving the shutter open for a second or more can let in too much light that the image becomes too bright.

The iPhone uses a different and much more cunning technique, however, that doesn't require extra equipment. It uses Live Photos, a feature that turns a still image into a short animation by recording a few seconds of video when you fire the shutter.

By analyzing which objects are moving, the iPhone captures the movement and blurs it. It's also able to recognize what isn't moving (a rock or a wall, for example) and attempts to keep those objects sharp and in focus. It's a brilliant method because it lets you capture long exposure images in even bright mid-day sun without using a tripod or filter. Take that, DSLRs.

Here's how you can get started.

Know what makes a good long exposure shot

Not everything works as a long exposure image. A close-up of a flower blowing in the breeze will just become a blurry mess, while a picture of a static car will just remain, well, static.

What you need is a scene where there are both static and moving elements. Waterfalls are common subjects as the rushing water will be blurred while the rocks all around will remain solid. Any body of water, really, would be a good subject to experiment with.

You can also try busy city streets (remember your social distancing!). The long exposure effect would keep the buildings and roads sharp and fixed in the image, but the people walking all around will be blurred into ghostly figures, which would look atmospheric and dramatic.

Turn on Live Photos

Getting a long exposure image requires the movement that's recorded in a Live Photo, so it's critical that the mode is activated when shooting. It's located in the top right of the screen in the camera (when held in portrait orientation) or the top left (in landscape orientation). You'll see an icon of two circles surrounded by a third dotted circle. If there's no line through it, then Live Photos is activated. If there's a line through it, tap the icon and you'll see the message "Live" appear on-screen in a little yellow box.

Keep steady

Although the iPhone doesn't require a tripod to get a good long exposure image, you'll get the best results if you keep the phone as steady as possible while it's taking the Live image. I suggest resting the phone against a wall or some other fixed surface while shooting. If you have to hold the phone in your hand, I find that tucking my elbows in toward my body and holding my breath helps decrease motion blur while taking the shot.

It's a good idea to take multiple shots too, hammering the shutter button while you hold the position. This way you'll increase your chances of capturing at least one image that's stable enough to produce an attractive long exposure.

Create the long exposure

Once you captured your Live Images, it's time to transform it into the actual long exposure. Open the image you've settled on in your gallery and swipe up. This will bring up a panel called "Effects" where you can loop the motion in the video into gifs. Swipe to the end of the effects panel though and you'll see one called Long Exposure. Tap it.

It'll take a second or two, but you'll quickly see how any motion in your shot has been blurred into the dreamy effect you're after. You can then zoom in to check that it's still nice and sharp. Feel free to apply the same effect to others photos you took of the same scene, just in case they worked out better.

Check your library

Before you dash out to find your nearest waterfall, have a look through your library to see if you already have images that would work. The great thing about using the iPhone's long exposure tool is that you don't need to use it while you're shooting. You can go back and apply it to any long exposure image you've taken up until now.

Perhaps you visited Niagara falls or Havasu Falls in Arizona a few years ago and you happened to have Live Photos activated when taking your shots. You can swipe up and activate long exposure on any of those shots. You can even go into your "Live Photos" album in your gallery to see all the shots you've got on your phone that can be transformed into long exposures. My advice? Put a good podcast on, settle into a comfy chair and see what dreamy shots you can dig out of your library.

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iPhone photo trick: Take stunning long exposure pics with no extra apps or equipment

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The iPhone 11 Pro's triple camera array takes some of the best images you can get from a phone, and even the 's single camera captures amazing images that belie its affordable price. But hidden inside these phones, specifically ones launched after the iPhone 6, is a creative trick that lets you transform your everyday images into dreamy long exposure shots.

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Long Exposure Photography on iPhone Tutorial // iPhone 12 Pro Max

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Slow Shutter App - https://apps.apple.com/us/app/slow-shutter-cam/id357404131

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How to use the iPhone 12 Camera - Complete Beginners Guide

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Pro 12 Max - Slow Shutter Shooting Mode
Light Trails (06:12-10:31)

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How To Get The BEST Long Exposures On Your iPhone | iOS App Update

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Hello

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https://www.dariustwin.com/edu

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Tutorials

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Light Painting Photography Tutorials. How to Use Light Painting Tools and the Light Painting Brushes System. Light Painting Tools. Light Painting Brushes.

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Light Painting Tutorial, The Peacock Technique