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Introduction: Easy Stitch and Glue Monkey Hand Puppet

First of all, thanks for checking out my first instructable! I've been a lover of designing and making things for many years and since becoming a primary school teacher (currently Year 2, 6-7 year olds) I've begun designing DT projects to teach my kids new things.

Our topic at the moment is Africa, and what better to design and make with textiles than a hand puppet? So, here goes!

Tools you'll need
- Printer
- Sharp scissors (especially important if you're doing this with children)
- A large needle (helps with drawing thread through holes)
- Permanent marker pen (bullet tip sharpie works well)

Materials you'll need
- 1 piece of dark brown felt (50cm x 30cm)
- 1 piece of light brown felt (20cm x 30xm)
- ~1m Dark brown embroidery thread
- Tacky glue (I found Bostik All Purpose glue worked very well)

Now you've got your tools and materials, let's get started!

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Step 1: Preparing Your Templates

Step 1 is to download and cut out the paper templates below. You don't actually need to cut out 2 arms and 2 feet as you can just cut out 1 of each and flip them over for each 2nd limb.

You might find it useful to label each template for whether it's going to be dark brown (DB) or light brown (LB) as this'll help not get mixed up in the next step!

Attachments

Step 2: Preparing Your Felt Pieces

Now take your dark brown template pieces and lay them out closely on the felt. No point in wasting felt!

Next, carefully hold down each template piece in turn and use your permanent marker to draw around the felt.

Using your sharp pair of scissors, take your time cutting out each of your felt pieces.

Don't worry about the black lines. We'll deal with them later.

Step 3: Sticking the Limbs

Before we get stitching, we need to attach our monkey limbs!

Take the arms, legs and tail and add just enough glue to each limb to stick them down onto 1 piece of the body. You might also want to choose where the tail is going to be. As long as it doesn't sit on top of one of the other limbs, you should find it easy enough to stitch through when you come to the body.

Surprisingly, I found you don't need to wait for the glue to dry (in fact, it's easier to stitch through while it's wet).

Now, you can go straight on to stitching the body!

Step 4: Stitching the Body

Thread your needle and either run a knot to the end of the thread or tie a shoe-lace knot in the end. This should stop your thread pulling through while stitching.

Now you've got 2 options when stitching the body together.

Overlap the body pieces on top of each other (black line sides facing towards eachother) and:

1. Pin the felt pieces in place. This helps the felt pieces to stay lined up.

2. Simply hold the pieces in place while stitching. I personally preferred this method while working with these pieces of felt, but see what works for you.

Now, as this is a hand puppet, we'll need to leave a gap between the monkey's legs for a child's hand to slip in.

Using an over-stitch (see picture), starting at the edge of the opening for the hand, run the needle around the outside of the 2 body pieces, making sure to check each piece is lined up before each stitch.

Once you've followed the body edges around to the the other edge of the hand hole, tie off the thread by knotting it through the nearest stitch a couple of times. Now, you should have a stitched monkey body!

Step 5: Adding the Body Features!

Now your body is stitched up, the only thing left is to add your features onto the body!

Take your light brown face, ear and body pieces and run a line of glue near the edge of each piece one at a time.

Using the monkey picture as a guide (in the template document), carefully press each light brown piece onto the body.

Now repeat with the dark brown eye and mouth pieces.

Congratulations, you now have a completed monkey hand puppet!

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First of all, thanks for checking out my first instructable! I've been a lover of designing and making things for many years and since becoming a primary school teacher (currently Year 2, 6-7 year olds) I've begun designing DT projects to teach my kids new things.

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crochet monkey! complete with spiral monkey tail, curved arms and legs, THUMBS on hands and feet!! and embroidered facial features. This monkey follows my own,...

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Zap

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Step 1:

All you really need to make this stuffed animal is two paper bags and a roll of duct tape. Smaller paper bags work best and be sure to crumple them up before hand to make them nice and soft. You may need two rolls of duct tape depending on how precise you are.

Not pictured is a pair of scissors and a sharpie to draw the face on in the end. Optionally, you can also use cotton balls to fill in the gaps and make it a bit softer, but you can get by just fine without them.

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Step 12:

Now all that's left is to draw a face on it. Go wild with this, you could make it cute, sad, angry, whatever you want. And if you mess up or just want to change its face later, all you need to do is put a strip or two of duct tape over it and you'll have a blank canvas to work with again.

Enjoy your extremely cheap and surprisingly cuddly new stuffed animal!

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All you really need to make this stuffed animal is two paper bags and a roll of duct tape. Smaller paper bags work best and be sure to crumple them up before hand to make them nice and soft. You may need two rolls of duct tape depending on how precise you are.

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Who Who You

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Introduction: Owl Stuffed Animal

Do you need a gift to give to a friend? Do they enjoy homemade gifts? Do they like owls? If you answered yes to any of these questions this is the project for you. People love when you make them gifts, especially ones that they can hold and squeeze. Making plushies is easy, as long as you have the templates, so I went ahead and made the templates for this owl to save you time and frustration. This project takes very little or no sewing knowledge to make. You just have to be patient and you will figure it out.

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Step 1: Gather Supplies

You will need:

Sewing machine

Needle

Thread

Bobbins

Stuffing (I'm using poly fill)

Scissors

Owl templates

Pins

Fabric (felt, fleece, ect..)

Time

Little knowledge of sewing

Step 2: Cut Templates

Print your templates on thick paper (cardstock). Then cut them out.

Attachments

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Do you need a gift to give to a friend? Do they enjoy homemade gifts? Do they like owls? If you answered yes to any of these questions this is the project for you. People love when you make them gifts, especially ones that they can hold and squeeze.

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bello

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i love to make funny things with tissue. u can easily make funny character with tissue roll. i tried to make my favorite character minion :D

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Meep, Meep

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Introduction: Road Runner Toy That Is Really Fun to Make and Use

My biggest dream is to become a toy designer. In the past I have posted the " Unicus" idea that I have had for 7-8 years now but no one really believe in the concept. Yesterday I got to think, how would it be received if I make a concept toy based on a well known character? I first was thinking about doing this using Sonic the Hedgehog but I soon realized that Sonic curl up in a ball not propelling his legs. It then struck me, the runner of all times Road Runner would fit my proof of concept toy perfect!

Here's my story...

EDIT: also made a Sonic version, here>>

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Step 1: The Stuff Needed

* 2x lids (from baby food jars)
* 2x cotton swab (hollow type)
* 3x brad nails (round, not too long)
* 1x screw
* 1x or 2x nuts
* 2x o-rings (the size of the lids)
* 1x print out of the Road Runner

Attachments

Step 4: The Legs/wheels (2)

Use the wire cutter to shorten the brad nail. (If you have shorter nails skip this part).

Complete the second leg/wheel.

Step 8: The Body

Remove the cotton from the other cotton swab.

Stick the last nail into the hollow cotton swab according to picture.

Screw the screw (with nut(s)) into the short end according to picture.

Step 12: The Skin (body)

Spray the glue onto the back of the body.

Place the body skeleton according to picture (the long end should be in the middle of the Road Runners neck).

Place the opposite body onto the body skeleton.

Wait for the glue to dry.

Trim the edges...

Step 13: The Finish

Once everything is dry and trimmed it's possible that the body will weigh more. This is easily fixed with a extra nut (see picture).

Place the body onto the legs/wheels (according to picture).

DONE!

Lets test it out, YouTube video below... (this is what I made using house hold items, imagine if I could use a toy concept workshop)

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Road Runner Toy That Is Really Fun to Make and Use

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My biggest dream is to become a toy designer. In the past I have posted the " Unicus" idea that I have had for 7-8 years now but no one really believe in the concept. Yesterday I got to think, how would it be received if I make a concept toy based on a well known character?

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That looks awesome

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Introduction: Winter Fun - Frozen Bubbles

Fun with bubbles isn't just for long, lazy summer days. Frosty cold winter weather with temperatures dipping below 20 degrees F and 3 simple ingredients are what we used to make beautiful frozen bubbles. Our thermometer dipped to -12 degrees F when I took all of these photos.

Important Camera Note: Going from a warm building to the cold outdoors is hard on a camera (I used a point & click camera for photos in this instructable). To make it easier on your camera and for better photos, wait a few minutes before taking those first shots to give the camera time to acclimate to the drastic change in temperature. You can gather the other things you'll need to start the bubble happiness while you wait.

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Step 1: Supplies Checklist

Only 3 ingredients are needed to make the frozen bubble solution. Summer-fun 'regular' bubble solution didn't work for me - these bubbles broke immediately or as soon as they landed on a surface.

Stir together thoroughly:

3 cups water

1/2 cup light corn syrup

1 cup dish soap

Pour about half of this mixed solution into a small pan. Since I didn't have a regular bubble wand, I improvised by making one out of a wire egg-holder used to dye Easter eggs and it worked well.

Helpful Hint: In addition to giving the camera time to acclimate to the temperature drop, I had better results if I also set the bubble solution outside for a few minutes before starting to make bubbles. Not to worry - it won't freeze.

Step 2: Bundle Up - It's Time to Have Fun!

Making these frozen bubbles is the same as making bubbles at the beach. Dip the wand into the solution, being sure the wand is fully coated. Wave the wand gently through the air or blow air through the wand to create the heavier-than-usual bubbles.

Blowing slowly usually makes bigger bubbles, but making them too large will cause them to break before they float off the wand. Once they come in contact with a cold surface, they start to solidify. Some stay clear but are filled with swirling patterns, others are cloudy, sometimes 2 or more bubbles connect to form a cluster.

Step 3: As Time Goes By...

Fewer floating bubbles broke for me if they landed on a snow-covered surface. After more than 2 hours, some of the bubbles still were beautiful, but as they broke, they turned into deflated plastic-like shapes. Bubbles that broke quickly left behind a ring in the snow where they had been. Some of the bubbles and heavy solution slid over the porch railing and you could watch it freeze as it moved. Very tiny bubbles didn't break overnight and where there in the morning catching the sunlight.

Step 4: Lights, Camera, Action!

I was shooting these photos late at night, and all of the pictures were beautifully pure 'outer-space' black & white, so I decided to experiment with lighting. These photos were taken using different outdoor lights and flashlights from different angles.

We bundled up warmly, kept our gloves dry, and never noticed the cold. Tons of fun for everyone, especially having hot chocolate waiting for us inside. Surprising how many times we ran to the windows to see if the bubbles were still there.

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Fun with bubbles isn't just for long, lazy summer days. Frosty cold winter weather with temperatures dipping below 20 degrees F and 3 simple ingredients are what we used to make beautiful frozen bubbles. Our thermometer dipped to -12 degrees F when I took all of these photos.

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http://www.growingajeweledrose.com/2013/04/magnetic-silly-putty.html this tells you how  to make magnetic slime.

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this goes with my cubebot

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cubebot

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Cubebot® is a wooden toy robot inspired by Japanese Shinto Kumi-ki puzzles. Made from wood and elastic, Cubebot can be positioned to hold dozens of poses. When it's time to rest, Cubebot folds back into a perfect cube. A classic toy for all ages that will endure generations of play.

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we can all have our own beach

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Finally you can use cards for a good thing.

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Introduction: Card Pyramid Stuff Holder

If you are a bit of a hoarder (like me) this handy invention will hold your stuff in a stylish and interesting way.

You will need:

1. A deck of cards

2. Tape

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Step 1: Triangles

First make your first triangle.

Take three cards and connect them with tape edge to edge, resulting in a line of cards.

Now form a triangle with them and tape

Step 2: Select a Size

Now you can make more individual triangles to combine and create bigger ones. When you combine to make a bigger triangle the will be a empty space in the center, so make sure to fill that in with the same size pyramid.

Step 3: How to Connect the Triangles

When connecting triangles you will have to make the previous size 4 times. first take the pyramids and tape the together like you in the first step then take your fourth and slide into the middle and tape.

You can keep making it Bigger but make sure to keep in mind that the bigger it is, the time to make is multiples. As well, making it to big, will not allow it to stand on itself. At this point, I would suggest hanging it, like I did.

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If you are a bit of a hoarder (like me) this handy invention will hold your stuff in a stylish and interesting way. You will need: 1. A deck of cards 2. Tape Share First make your first triangle. Take three cards and connect them with tape edge to edge, resulting in a line of cards.

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lol

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Introduction: Anatomy Animals

To make one of these creatures you will need:

Craft Felt

Scissors

Hot Glue

Velcro

Iron

Sewing Machine +Thread

Freezer Paper

Printer Paper

Printer: to print the sewing pattern

Attachments

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Step 1: Printing

1. Start off by ironing a piece of freezer paper into a piece of printer paper. Place the coated side of the freezer paper down against the printer paper and iron it for just a few seconds. The freezer paper should stick well enough so that it is able to go through a printer- don't iron it too much because if they adhere too well they will be hard to separate later.

2. When printing, make sure to print onto the freezer paper and not the printer paper. Print one sheet with intestines and one sheet with an animal.

3. Once you have everything printed, remove the printer paper from the freezer paper. If it doesn't peel off easily, run the iron over it for a couple of seconds and immediately after removing the iron try peeling it off again.

4. Cut out each individual square.

Step 2: Choose Your Colors

Choose the colors that you will be using for each organ.

The larger squares on the printed sheet are 2.5" x 2.5" and the smaller ones are 2.5" x 1.25".

For the squares that are 2.5" x 2.5", your pieces of felt should be cut to measure 3" x 6".

For the squares that are 2.5" x 1.25", your pieces of felt should be cut to measure 3" x 3".

Once you have cut the felt, fold each piece in half and iron the appropriate organ to top.

Step 3: Sew and Cut

Sew over the freezer paper. Sew over the solid black line first and then sew each dashed line individually.

For the ones that are colored, sew the red line first, the blue line second and the dashed lines last.

When you are done sewing, peel away the freezer paper and cut each organ out, making sure not to cut too close to the thread.

Step 4: The Body

1. Iron the printed sheet onto a piece of felt. Place another piece of felt of the same color underneath. Sew the outline of the animal through both pieces of felt.

2. Then, with no thread, "sew" over the partial oval located on the belly of the animal.

3. Peel away the freezer paper.

4. You should see a faint outline of the oval in the felt. Use scissors to cut along that line- only cut the top layer of felt.

5. Cut away excess felt that is around the outline of the animal.

Step 5: The Face

1. Cut out the eyes, nose and any other parts of the face you want your creature to have.

2. Glue them on with hot glue.

Step 6: Patch It Up

1. Cut out small squares of Velcro.

2. Hot glue the squares to the belly of the animal, one on each side of the incision OR glue a strip of Velcro to the back of each bandage.

3. Throw the organs in and use the bandages to close it up.

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To make one of these creatures you will need: Craft Felt Scissors Hot Glue Velcro Iron Sewing Machine +Thread Freezer Paper Printer Paper Printer: to print the sewing pattern Attachments Share Start off by ironing a piece of freezer paper into a piece of printer paper.

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Cool glowing city

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Introduction: City Lights

City lights is a fun project for kids of all ages to begin to learn a bit about soft circuits and an opportunity to create a fun at home project based either on your home city or one in your imagination. You will build simple block style buildings integrating LEDs for visual fun, there is a simple and a modular version so the sky is the limit with what you can create!

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Step 1: Before We Begin

Materials:
- 1 large Foam Core (for the building bases)
- 1 large artboard
- 10 LEDs various colors (one for each building so get as many as you want)
- 10 330 -ohm resistors (or as many LEDs as you get as you use one for each)
- 20 small Neodymium magnets (i reccomend these: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B441)
- 1 roll of copper tape (you will not use all of it)
-double sided tape
- hot glue gun or glue dots
- Sheets of tracing paper or vellum (for the buildings)
- 2 metallic sheets 26' guage or thinnner (you can even remove one from one of those little fridge magnet boards)
- Soldering iron
-Solder
-Scissors or exacto knife
-Ruller
- 2 9v batteries
-2 9v battery connectors

(if you dont know how to solder yet check out this tutorial https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/)
kids of all ages should learn to solder and work responsibly, the earlier the better

all of these materials are available at your local art store or staples and radio shack, but i would recommend buying some of the electronics parts with special attention to the magnets online as the price differences are remarkable.

Step 4: Connecting Our Roads

Dividing our board in half we are going to connect two positive and two negative lines together in parallel and then to each of our power sources (9v batteries).

The easiest way to do this is to connect the lines in a simple C shape, to which we will later attach the lines of our battery connectors.
VERY IMPORTANT that the lines do not touch each other, as you can see i placed a piece of electrical tape where one line crosses over the other, this will insulate the positive from the negative current.

Then placing the battery in the center of the base line up your positive (red) power line and your negative (black) power line to each of the copper tape roads.

Step 6: Repeat for Other Side

Repeat steps 4 and 5 for your other two roads. To keep things simple and separated i did them on opposite sides of the board.
This step finishes of our board so we can now begin to make our buildings!

Step 7: Building Base

Cut the foamcore into a 1 1/2 inch square, this will serve as the base for the building. Then place a glue dot or a dab of hot glue in the center. This will be there to hold the LED in place.
Take you LED and bend its legs out flat, remember electricity can only flow one way through an LED so making note of the positive side is important (this is the long leg or anode, the short leg is known as a cathode), i find it best to mark this right on the base so as not to forget.

Step 10: Connecting the Lights

now you want to run a piece of tape (one from the negative leg of the LED and the other from the free leg of the resistor) down and over the magnets below. These will allow the current to flow up and turn on the light.

Step 14: Modular Building

If you want to continue and make building blocks that can be stacked on top of eachother, stop after folding your paper frame and follow the next steps:

The way we make them modular (stackable) is by extending the power running through the light (both positive and negative lines) to the lid, and include a small piece of metal in the lid, allowing the magnets to create that same strong hold they have to the base.

so first cut out a square of metal the same size of your lid (depending on what thickness of metal you are using simple scissors may not be enough, luckly metal sheers are very easy to come by at any home depot, they look just like scissors just alot thicker).

Then using your double sided tape attach just one side to our light base.

Step 15: Extend the Lines

Starting with our positive side place a small section of copper tape to run up the side of the building, touching the tape that comes up from the magnet below.
Leave a little bit as a flap for above which we will later extend.

Than you want to make another solder dot here to connect the two pieces of tape.

Step 16: Repeat

now you want to repeat the previous step for the negative line to go up the opposite side.

Step 17: Close the Lid and Build the Roof

Now you are ready to close of the box just like you did with the simple building, while leaving the two little copper tape flaps extended above.

Once your lid is closed and in place, bend these down in order to extend them.
You want to keep the same distance as before (3/4 inch) between the two strips so any of the buildings you make can easily attach!

One final step for good practice will be to solder the tape connections on top, this will provide us with a fool proof connection.

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City lights is a fun project for kids of all ages to begin to learn a bit about soft circuits and an opportunity to create a fun at home project based either on your home city or one in your imagination.

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Introduction: Dandeline Lanterns

Ever since I shared the first set of lanterns here on Instructables, I have been thinking about how to make them even easier and more accessible. To be honest, it's not that easy to find the perfect size drinking glasses...

Today I am excited to share a new solution - see how we can make these magical Dandelion paper lanterns beautiful enough for a wedding, with up-cycled plastic water bottles!

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Step 1: Materials and Tools:

Materials and tools:

clear plastic water bottles from your recycle bin! Those with grooves are fine, they don't show when lit.

white paper : I used Neenah Exact Index Cardstock which worked beautifully to get more of the dimensional effect. This paper is the perfect weight, not too flimsy like text paper, not too heavy yet hold its shape nicely.

LED tealight candles, or if you want a really bright glow, use these LED Warm White Fairy Lights like I did for these lanterns!

I used a Silhouette Portrait here to cut the designs, but it's easy enough to cut with an X-acto knife

clear tape

free templates both for hand cutting and a Silhouette file which you can download at the end

Step 2:

First we will remove the labels and cut the clear plastic bottle to about 8″ tall. I use 1 Litre and 1.5 Liter bottles here.

Print out the template, and cut along the lines.

After cutting them by hand or on your Silhouette machine, fold those petals up so the blossoms become three dimensional.

When a pattern gets a little more intricate, use a spatula or butter knife to help lift them off the cutting mat.

Step 3:

Tape the paper to the outside of the plastic bottle with clear tape or double sided tape.
Light the LED candles or string lights, and drop them into the bottles.

The weight of the lights will hod the plastic-paper bottles down securely.

Step 4:

Play with different shapes and patterns! The possibilities are endless! If you want to use this pattern, here are the free designs of these paper lanterns for you to download.

You can mirror the pattern or rotate it to create many different variations like in these pictures!

Ready to make a wish?

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Ever since I shared the first set of lanterns here on Instructables, I have been thinking about how to make them even easier and more accessible. To be honest, it's not that easy to find the perfect size drinking glasses...

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Discover thousands of images about Puffy Paint Crafts on Pinterest, a visual bookmarking tool that helps you discover and save creative ideas.

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MONEY FOR SUIT! !15 dolla waist!

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Fold the five dollar bill in half lengthwise.

Open, and fold the outside edges toward the center fold line. Crease.

Fold in half again and crease with fingernail.

Take this long slender piece and fold in half, at an angle, refer to picture.

Tuck folded edge of pants into the shirt.

You could use a 10 dollar bill for the pants if you like. (making this a 20 dollar pant suit)

Place pant suit in a birthday card.

Great idea for a last minute gift!

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Fold the five dollar bill in half lengthwise. Open, and fold the outside edges toward the center fold line. Crease. Fold in half again and crease with fingernail. Take this long slender piece and fold in half, at an angle, refer to picture. Tuck folded edge of pants into the shirt.

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Introduction: Homeade Jet Pack

I'm going to tell you how to make a Jet Pack to go with Boba Fett Bounty Hunter Costume so listen up and let's do this!!!
P.S. PLEASE VOTE FOR ME!!!
P.P.S. Sorry if the pics are bad. I tried my best.

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Step 1: What You Need.....

Here Is what you need.....
1. A rectangular prisim box with no top
2. 2 yrds. of yarn/string/twine
3. A fuel tank and boosters from space shuttle set
4. scotch clear tape
5. scissors

Step 2: Let's Get Started.......

So now you cut holes big enough to put string in at the ends of the long sides of the box AND get two 1 yard pieces of string.

Step 3: Now Let's End the Main Part..........

Now we are almost done with the main part.....
1. Tie the yarn EQUALLY on both sides after you have put them through the holes from the inside out.

Step 4: Now Let's Begin/End the Fun Part........

Now we get to the fun.........
1. Tape the fuel tank to the BACK(outside) of the box
2. now tape the boosters beside the fuel tank

Step 5: YOUR NOW DONE!!!!

NOW YOUR DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now your ready to demand bounty!!!

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I'm going to tell you how to make a Jet Pack to go with Boba Fett Bounty Hunter Costume so listen up and let's do this!!! P.S. PLEASE VOTE FOR ME!!! P.P.S. Sorry if the pics are bad. I tried my best. Share Here Is what you need..... 1.

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It wont pop!!!

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Introduction: Plush Balloon Animal

Everybody loves balloon animals, but eventually they deflate and the fun is over. Make your own plush balloon animals, and the party never has to end!

Upcycle a pair of kid's tights into fun new toys, that make a very sweet gift. No sewing skills are required - just the ability to tie some knots. The best part is, each animal only takes one leg from the tights, so you can make two!

These toys are soft, squishy, and perfect for young children or old. So grab a pair of tights, channel your inner clown, and let's get started!

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Step 1: Materials

1 pair girls tights (I used the smallest pair I could find, but would go larger next time - you can always cut off what you don't need!)

Polyfill or other stuffing

Tiny clear rubber bands (like these)

Black embroidery floss

Sturdy white thread

Sewing needle

Scoochmaroo is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.

Step 2: Filling

Cut off one leg of the tights and stuff with polyfill batting. Artfully smush it all around to make a nice smooth tube.

Section off the tube with rubber bands as follows. I included the approximate sizes of the sections I used, but you can certainly change these to suit the size of tube you have or to make a bunny with different proportions:
Face (1.5")
Ear (3")
Ear (3")
Body (1")
Arm (1")
Arm (1")
Leg (2")
Leg (2")
Tail (just the knot in this case)

Once you've got the rubber bands where you want them, secure the sections with thread and knot. Pull on the tights to move the batting away from the divisions so they twist more easily.

Step 3: Shaping

Twist the sections together and secure with thread. Tie the ears together, the arms together, and the legs together.

You can compress the shapes more tightly by running a thread from head to tail through the interior of the body, but that is optional.

Finally, add eyes by creating French knots with the embroidery floss.

You're done! Now that you're a pro, experiment with other balloon animal shapes. I'll give you a 3-mo pro membership for posting a picture of your plush balloon animal!

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Everybody loves balloon animals, but eventually they deflate and the fun is over. Make your own plush balloon animals, and the party never has to end! Upcycle a pair of kid's tights into fun new toys, that make a very sweet gift. No sewing skills are required - just the ability to tie some knots.

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Introduction: Double Stuff Dog Bed

Some objects in this world defy explanation. Others need no explanation. I think this one falls into the second category. If you have to ask why someone would make a dog bed shaped like a giant sandwich cookie, you're probably missing the point. And that's fine-it's okay by me that it's not to your taste.

For the love of dogs, why not? Woman's best friend deserves the best. This project was a response to my friend and co-conspirator Danger Is My Middle Name announcing that she would be bringing her canine BFF, Lyric, with her to Instructables HQ.

If you're curious as to how I created this wonderful thing, read on. If you start to question why there aren't steps covering the Illustrator and Photoshop parts of this build, stay tuned -I will post another Instructable covering the software and technical parts of this journey very soon.

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Step 1: Good Photography.

It's an article of faith that modern DSLR cameras take great pictures. What a lot of people perhaps don't know is that an image taken by a 20-megapixel or so camera can be blown up to ridiculous proportions and retain an astonishing amount of detail.

I started out by taking a sandwich cookie, putting it on an infinity drop, and and shooting it from above with a very nice camera. I lit it from two directions with external flashes pointing at 90 degrees from one another to be sure and capture as much detail as I could.

I then shot the cookie from the side, making sure to shoot in macro mode and getting as close as I dared.

Step 2: Photoshop & Illustratory Goodness.

For the technical discussion, tune in next week. I'll be posting a second Instructable with screenshots and a verbose description.

Step 3: Printing

I printed this on coated canvas with the Roland Versacamm printer/vinylcutter we have here at HQ, but you could certainly send it out to a service bureau to print if you were to make one yourself.

I will discuss how to set up the file for printing and what you will want to know about this type of work in my next Instructable.

Step 5: Sewing the Pieces Together

While we have a proper Juki walking-foot machine for thicker material, I opted for one of the more lightweight sewing machines. It's been awhile since I did any heavy-duty sewing, so I felt it would be wise to take baby steps back to it.

I started by sewing the ends of the middle piece together to form a loops, then matching my dotted lines and sewing in a huge circle. This, because I didn't bother to use pins, went as you might predict. Not one of my prouder sewing moments, let's say.

I got it together though, and then nipped small relief cuts in the perimeter using the scissors. These cuts help the material to bend naturally when you evert (flip inside out) the finished piece. Depending on the size of the finished piece, they could be from 1/4" to 1 1/2" apart.

Step 6: Stuffing: Part One

Because I wasn't sure if I had enough cotton batting to fill one of these completely, I opted to check on how much I needed before sewing the top half on. I got the great suggestion from Rimamonsta to use the stiffer foam I'd bought at the foam store as a rim around the inside of the bed, to give the edges stiffness and to make the center softer. This had the effect of giving the bed more rigidity where it needed it, which our friend Lyric the Golden Retriever I'm sure will appreciate.

Step 7: Sewing the Top On

I took another suggestion, this time from MikaelaHolmes, to pin the pieces together this time. I did, and sewed the lid on. It still took a lot of careful eyeballing and handwork to get them to line up. It's been some time since I approached a large-scale sewing project, and this one was a bit of a challenge for me. Keeping two pieces of fabric from wandering when you have them in the machine not pinned can be a frustrating experience.

A note to mothers out there: PRETTY PLEASE, TEACH YOUR KIDS TO SEW...they will thank you for it. :)

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Some objects in this world defy explanation. Others need no explanation. I think this one falls into the second category. If you have to ask why someone would make a dog bed shaped like a giant sandwich cookie, you're probably missing the point. And that's fine-it's okay by me that it's not to your taste.

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AWESOME WAY TO WAIST MONEY!

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This is a intermediate level origami model. It may be somewhat difficult to newcomers, but to practiced hands it should be fairly easy.

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Introduction: $5 Dollar Burglar Alarm!

I made a Burglar Alarm for under 5 bucks, and items I found laying around the house! No soldering required. (soldering optional)

I uploaded this video to the video section as well. Check out my video below:

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Step 1: Items You Will Need to Build Your $5 Dollar Burglar Alarm.

4x4 piece of card board,
1 clothespin,
3 regular size rubber bands,
1 jumbo paper clip,
3 regular size paper clips,
1 push pin thumbtack,
1 AA battery,
6 to 8 inches of thread or kite string,
1 spare piece of thin cardboard,
An aluminum pie pan,
"AA" Battery Holder from Radio Shack (270-401A),
3VDC Mini Buzzer from Radio Shack (273-053A).

Step 3: Step 3

Push a rubber band through the bottom hole, and pull it through the other hole. Secure the rubber band on the other side with a paper clip. Do this for both holes.

Step 9: Step 9

Take your clothespin out and place it on the aluminum pie pan. Trace a pattern (with a pen) around the top half of the clothespin(image1). Cut out the pattern into a boot shape (image2). You'll need two of these. Poke a hole into the tip of the boot with a thumbtack (image3).

Look at image 4 for the end result.

Step 17: Step 17

You can also use this as a trip wire alarm! You might want to secure the $5 Dollar Burglar Alarm with thumb tacks if you use it as a trip wire alarm. Be sure to check out the video version of this step-by-step instructable in the "Intro".

***NOTE*** You can always use a louder buzzer for this project. Good luck!!!

Johnny Rock Stah

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I made a Burglar Alarm for under 5 bucks, and items I found laying around the house! No soldering required. (soldering optional) I uploaded this video to the video section as well.

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Introduction: Easter Egg or Candy Container (computer Aided Origami)

This instructable will guide you through creating a decorative container for Easter, or if you wish any thing you want it to hold. I do allow things besides candy.

Materials:

Computer with printer. Adjust the size of the crease pattern to as large as can fit on a regular sheet of paper.

Paper with the crease pattern printed on it. I recommend card stock or canson paper. Just make sure the paper doesn't split when you fold it.

Straight edge. I'm using a protractor for its straight edge.

Glue or stapler

Either a pen or something you can trace with (I don't recommend a utility knife, although a dull butter knife might work)

Scissors

Side note: The file for the image is not the original viacad file which is cleaner. If you would like the file in viacad or adobe illustrator you can send me note with your email and I will send it. Otherwise just print the pic as large as you can on

By the way sticking an led in it and letting it glow it becomes a pretty nifty light.

TO GO GREEN...This design works well with political handouts that can fill your mailbox at this time of year. Also you can use any thicker material that is already printed on rather than throw it out and put them over led light strings for a custom and green decoration.

Notes I should've added in the beginning: Yes I did create this on my own inspired by a traditional origami model. If you like doing this sortof thing I have a bunch of other crease patterns at http://cedison.wordpress.com/2009/04/09/computer-aided-origami-candy-boxes/ but they are nondirectional creasepatterns and no instructions like here.

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Step 3: Image Save in Word

If you can this is a cleaner version saved in word.

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Step 12: Collapse 1

This is typically the stubborn part. The initial collapse is a pain, but practice makes perfect. You will be twisting the lid shut clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the side. The pic below is for counterclockwise and when I do the other side it will be clockwise.

Pinch the edge and fold over on the pre-existing crease, while keeping that in place do the next one and the next till it collapses in a star shape. Look at the next to pics to see the progression.

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Easter Egg or Candy Container (computer Aided Origami)

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This instructable will guide you through creating a decorative container for Easter, or if you wish any thing you want it to hold. I do allow things besides candy. Materials: Computer with printer. Adjust the size of the crease pattern to as large as can fit on a regular sheet of paper.

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Awesome jet pack!!!

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Here are some of the materials I used.

Silver Spraypaint used for the cones on the cylinders

Yellow Spraypaint Used for the shoes

Red Spraypaint Used for the pants

Red, Yellow and Orange tinsel used to create the firey pants

Pair of old pants (red if possible in case the thinsel seperates)

Doublesided tape for holding tinsel in place on pants

Thread for attaching tinsel to pants

Tinfoil used to coat the cylinders

Backpack used to mount the jetpack

Corrigated Cardboard - lightweight yet sturdy enough create solid cylinders

Birdfeeders used for the top and bottom of the cylinders (they just happened to be the right size so I went with them)

An old belt to support hinge mechanisim

5ft ¾" wavin pipe, 2 T-joints, 2 elbow joints

Wavin glue to to secure hinge mechanisim

1 pair of thights (pantyhose)

Multiple newspapers to stuff the thights with

Oh, and old reliable ducktape for, well, you know, EVERYTHING :)

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should be good for school? =P

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Introduction: How to Make an Origami Backpack!

In this tutorial, I will show you how to make an origami (Back to School) Backpack. Enjoy :D!

Origami: (Back to School) Backpack!
Designed By: Fumiaki Shingu
Instructions found on http://en.origami-club.com/

Tips: Take care of your folds at the beginning, and the rest should be fairly easy if you follow the tutorial exactly. Making careful folds, and making sure everything is properly aligned will allow you to get best results for the final product. This rule is something that should probably be kept in mind when making any origami model. Other than that, have fun!

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
In this tutorial, I will show you how to make an origami (Back to School) Backpack. Enjoy :D! Origami: (Back to School) Backpack! Designed By: Fumiaki Shingu Instructions found on http://en.origami-club.com/ Tips: Take care of your folds at the beginning, and the rest should be fairly easy if you follow the tutorial exactly.

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Introduction: Wooden Airplane

This is the first in a small series on making wooden toys from leftover pieces of wood or MDF. In this instructable I will show how you can build a simple toy airplane, with spinning propellor!

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Step 1: Materials & Tools

NOTE: I'm not giving any specific measurements, because everybody has his own taste in design, so everyone will probably make it a little bigger or smaller anyway...

For my airplane I used the following materials:
(ofcourse you can improvise according to what you have lying around)

- 1 piece of wood for the body (can be 1 solid piece or built up with layers of MDF)
- some smaller, thinner pieces of wood or MDF or triplex for the wings and tail
- 2 ice cream sticks for the propellors
- 1 round wooden stick for the nose
- a small piece of iron wire or paperclip for the axle of the propellors

And the tools I used to make it:
- saw (either a machine or handsaw)
- sanding paper (or machine if you have access to one)
- drill (using a nail and pulling it out also works)
- wire cutter
- woodglue

Step 2: Designing Your Airplane

First you have to decide on the type and size of the airplane you want to build. Make a sketch and write down the measurements. I usually eyeball the measurements and then round them off so they are easy to remember...

If you make any adjustments to this design, make sure you have everything you need!

Step 3: Making the Body

Take the bigger piece of wood for the body, and draw your design on one side. Saw out the basic shape.

On the sawn piece, mark the shape of the body and either saw or sand it off.

When your basic shape is done, sand all the edges to make them smooth (especially for young children).

Step 4: Making the Wings and Tail

For the wings and tail you need some small pieces of wood, triplex or MDF. Draw your wing and tail measurements on the wood and saw these off.

Get some masking tape and build your model without glue to see if it is what you had in mind. Make adjustments where needed.

Glue the pieces of wings and the tail together. DO NOT glue the wings or tail onto the body just yet!

Sand the wings and tail to prevent sharp edges and hide the seams where you glued them together.

Step 5: Making the Propellors & Put It Together

(You can either glue the wings and tail onto the body before or after you put on the propellors.)

For the propellors we use 2 ice cream sticks. If the ones you have are too big for your airplane, just saw off a piece and sand the edge untill it's rounded.
I also cut out half of the sticks in the middle where they meet, so they fall into eachother. This isn't necessary but makes it look a little cleaner. Glue the 2 sticks onto eachother in the middle.

To make the nose cone, sand the larger round stick untill you get the desired cone shape. Then saw this off the stick. (if you reverse these steps it might be difficult to sand the piece)

Drill a hole into the body and the nose cone, the same size as your axle will be.

Drill a slightly larger hole in the middle of the propellors, so that it spins smoothly around the axle.

Cut your axle to size, so that it fits into the body and the nose cone, and leave enough space so that the propellors can spin freely.

Glue your axle into the body of your airplane, and wait for the glue to dry. Then put on the propellors and glue on the nose cone.

Step 6: Enjoy Your New Toy!

You can paint the airplane if you want, or put on a pilot and landing gear.

Then there is nothing more to do than to enjoy your new toy airplane!

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This is the first in a small series on making wooden toys from leftover pieces of wood or MDF. In this instructable I will show how you can build a simple toy airplane, with spinning propellor! NOTE: I'm not giving any specific measurements, because everybody has his own taste in design, so everyone will probably make it a little bigger or smaller anyway...

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Introduction: Blinky! the Cute Red Ghost

Red ghost,

It's Halloween's Day!

¿Sabes que significa eso?

Es tiempo de iluminar esta noche oscura con un poco de eTextile!

Este año una de mis alumnas muy hábil confeccionando me mostró el camino (Bueno.. Si! soy profesor de tecnología aplicada ^^)

Este Instructable (mi primer instructable) lo hice para que tú también puedas tener un tecno-accesorio, es barato y tiene una dificultad media.

Ahora si! Fantasmas a la obra (Now! Ghosts to work)

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Step 1: Supplies (Materiales)

ELECTRONIC SUPPLIES (COMPONENTES ELECTRONICOS)

Conductive thread (Hilo conductivo)

3V Coin Cell Battery - CR2032 (Bateria botón de 3V - CR2032)

2 LEDs piranha - red ( 2 LEDs piraña rojo)

2 Resistor - 1KΩ 1/4W (2 Resistencias de 1KΩ 1/4W)

TEXTILE SUPPLIES (MATERIALES TEXTILES)

Red Felt (Fieltro rojo)

White Felt (Fieltro blanco)

Red embroidery floss (Hilo de coser rojo)

Sewing needle (Aguja de coser)

Transparent material or any clothing (Mica transparente o cualquier tela)

filling cotton (Algodón de relleno o Napa siliconada)

TEMPLATE (MODELO)

Ghosts (Pac-Man) (fantasma de pac-man)

EXTRA TOOLS (Herramientas extra)

Round nose pliers (Alicate de punta redonda)

Multimeter (Multimetro)

Step 2: Trace Red Ghost to Your Felt (Silueta Del Fantasma Rojo En El Fieltro)

[Es] Puedes hacerlo de muchas formas diferentes.

Yo utilicé una cortadora láser. Para cortarlo con una cortadora laser necesitas el archivo "Fantasma_Rojo(Red Ghost).dxf" y la maquina lo corta por ti. Video

Si no tienes acceso a una cortadora láser, puedes imprimir los archivos "Fantasma_Rojo (Red Ghost).pdf" y "Vistas.pdf" y utilizarlo como plantilla (Ambos archivos tienen las dimensiones de un A4).

[En] You can do this in many different ways.

I used a laser cutter machine. To cut it with a laser cut machine you need the file "Fantasma_Rojo (Red Ghost) .dxf" and the machine will cut it for you. Video

If you don't have access to a laser cutter, you can print the files "Fantasma_Rojo (Red Ghost).pdf" y "Vistas.pdf" and use as a template (Both files have the dimensions of an A4).

Attachments

Step 3: Design the Electronic Circuit (Diseñar El Circuito Electronico)

[Es] En el paso anterior se encuentra el archivo "Fantasma_Rojo (Red Ghost).pdf" que contiene la silueta del circuito electrónico, imprimelo y luego corta la mica transparente utilizando la impresión como plantilla.

Con un marcador pueden dibujar sobre la impresión donde irán las pistas, para esto pueden usar un marcador negro y rojo, para diferenciar positivo (+) de negativo (-) como yo lo hice.

Una vez que tenemos la silueta en la mica transparente procedemos a doblarlo como se ve en la imagen.

NOTA: Yo usé mica transparente pero también puedes usar un pedazo de tela, la idea es que sea un material flexible.

[En] The file "Fantasma_Rojo (Red Ghost).pdf" is in the previous step, it contains the outline of the electronic circuit, print it and then cut the transparent material using what you printed as a template.

With a marker you can draw on printing where the tracks go, for it you can use a black and red marker, to differentiate positive (+) and negative (-) as I've done.

Once we have the outline in the transparent material we proceed to bend as shown in the image.

NOTE: I used a transparent material but you can also use a piece of cloth, the idea is whatever you use must be flexible.

Step 4: Sew the Electronic Traces (Coser Pistas Electrónicos)

[Es] En el paso anterior vimos por donde iban a pasar las pistas y como iban a estar ubicado los componentes electrónicos.

En este paso debemos colocar los componentes (LEDs y resistencias). con solamente presionar los componentes sobre la mica transparente vamos a traspasarlo, después de esto debemos doblar las extensiones metálicas o patas metálicas, para fijarlo a la mica. Para fijar componentes como las resistencias debemos utilizar el alicate de punta redonda, en el siguiente vídeo verán como es que se debe utilizar la herramienta para asegurar estos componentes. Video

Una vez que fijamos todos los componentes debemos coser las pistas utilizando el hilo conductivo y la aguja. (No soy un experto, pero sé que tú también puedes hacerlo).

Cuidado con hincarte!

NOTA: Recuerda que los LEDs tienen polaridad, en el caso del LED Piraña de un solo color hay 2 pares de patas metálicas que son comunes, esto significa que basta con coser 2 de las patas para que pueda encender. Puedes usar un multímetro para saber cuales son positivos (+) y cuales son negativos (-), o puedes hacerlo con la vista.

[En] In the previous step we saw the placement of electronic components and tracks.

In this step we are going to put electronic components (LEDs and resistors). In order to fix components we must bend the metal extensions or metal legs. Video

Step 9: Turn Red Ghost On! (Encender Fantasma Rojo)

[Es] Coloca una batería en el compartimiento y verás al fantasma rojo alumbrar en esta noche tenebrosa.

Espero te haya gustado ;)

Ahora puedes compartirlo con tus amigos.

Feliz día de brujas!!

[En]

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Red ghost, It's Halloween's Day! ¿Sabes que significa eso? Es tiempo de iluminar esta noche oscura con un poco de eTextile! Este año una de mis alumnas muy hábil confeccionando me mostró el camino (Bueno.. Si! soy profesor de tecnología aplicada ^^) Este Instructable (mi primer instructable) lo hice para que tú también puedas tener un tecno-accesorio, es barato y tiene una dificultad media.

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Paper star
More or little spikes?

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Step 1: Origami Modular Star

You will need 30 pieces of origami paper.

You can use whatever size you wish, just make sure it's a square

On this demo, I used 6"x6" paper.

On the large white one, I used 12"x12"

Step 5:

Turn over. Pic. #1

Fold the 'wings' over to the center. Pic. #2

Do this on the other 'wing' also. Pic. #3

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Step 7:

Turn over. Unfold the 'wings' you just creased. Pic. #1

Turn back over and crease in half. Point to point.

Are you ready for the FUN part!

Step 11:

Great Job!

Make another triangle. You will do the same technique you did for the first one. (Except the first piece is already there)

Then close that triangle.

Just keep going until you are finished. It will start looking like a ball and it will be a bit easier.

Step 12:

This is another one that I made.

Yours will resemble this!

Happy Folding!

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You will need 30 pieces of origami paper. You can use whatever size you wish, just make sure it's a square On this demo, I used 6"x6" paper. On the large white one, I used 12"x12" Turn over. Pic. #1 Fold the 'wings' over to the center. Pic.

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By......Vivian!!!!!!!

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Introduction: How to Make a Paper Ninja Star/Shuriken

I show how to make a paper throwing star/shuriken. It is an easy model to make but when folding try to make the edges as straight as possible for best results. It can be made from any type of paper regular printer paper and magazine paper works well. Two different colours of paper can give it a more interesting look. The origami ninja star/shuriken is fun and easy to fold, its weight, form and shape is evenly balanced all around which makes it excellent for throwing. Be careful when throwing it because the corners are pointy and sometimes the flight path is unpredictable.

A shuriken is a traditional Japanese concealed weapon that was generally used for throwing, and some stabbing and slashing. Shuriken are commonly known in the West as throwing stars or ninja stars although they were originally designed in many different shapes.

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Step 1: Materials

- 2 pieces of Paper

you can use printer paper, you just need to make it into a square.

(http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Origami-Paper).

Step 2: Watch the Video

(The video may not show up for mobile viewers)

http://youtu.be/HFRMO8SsLaE

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I show how to make a paper throwing star/shuriken. It is an easy model to make but when folding try to make the edges as straight as possible for best results. It can be made from any type of paper regular printer paper and magazine paper works well.

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Easy card board truk

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Introduction: Cardboard Truck

it's all cardboard boxes!! For the wheels i attached 2 cardboard boxes against the grain...then taped the edges so i gave a nice finish. For the axle i got long cardboard tubes (you can find it in material shops! they will give it to you free once the length of material is over!). The lifting up arms ( i don't know what it's called)....well...like the tiers i pasted 2 boards up and cut the shape out....later i reinforced the arms with plastic sticks and taped it up...i also got a light Bristol board and hot glued it to the arms.

For the body as you can see form the pictures....i cut out the windows....(later i added another box under it as it wasn't high enough for my son to stand inside it...you can see it in the second picture). For the bottom of the body i removed the flaps and cut out a square smaller than the top box opening so i can be hot glued and taped properly. As you can see all the edges and joints were reinforced with tape.

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it's all cardboard boxes!! For the wheels i attached 2 cardboard boxes against the grain...then taped the edges so i gave a nice finish. For the axle i got long cardboard tubes (you can find it in material shops! they will give it to you free once the length of material is over!).

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Coin ring
Should be cheap?

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Place your "washer" coin on your ring mandrel and start tapping it with a nylon hammer. You want to use quick and firm but not overly hard taps. Work slowly and move the mandrel around while tapping. You can also work the coin against a piece of wood while tapping to help keep the coin on the mandrel. Slowly the coin will start bending down around the mandrel.

Using a piece of plastic pipe you can smack the coin down around the mandrel to help speed up the process.

If the coin becomes hard to work with, anneal it every so often.

Eventually you will want to flip the coin around and start working it on mandrel facing upwards. See the pics.

It will start looking like a ring.

You work the ring down on the mandrel with the plastic pipe to the size you need.

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Place your "washer" coin on your ring mandrel and start tapping it with a nylon hammer. You want to use quick and firm but not overly hard taps. Work slowly and move the mandrel around while tapping. You can also work the coin against a piece of wood while tapping to help keep the coin on the mandrel.

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Introduction: The "Drone Fighter" Paper-plane!

2 People Made This Project!

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Step 1: Tools..

A piece of printer paper, a good pencil(optional)
and a ruler(also optional)

Step 2: Making a Square Piece of Paper

(You may skip this step if you know how to, or have a square piece of paper)

1) Fold the top part diagonally down and make a line on the bottom edge of the
paper

2) Open up the fold and cut along the line so you have a square piece of paper.

Step 3: Start Folding...

1) Fold in half vertically

2)Fold in half horizontally, open and fold down
to the first fold

3)Squash fold the bottom flap

Step 4: Continue Folding...

1)Repeat the same squash fold on the remaining flap

2)Fold down one of the two flaps on the front, open up again

3)stick your finger in the pocket and flatten, fold back up

Step 5: Still Folding...

1)Repeat the same step on the other three flaps

2)Fold up the two front-most flaps

3) Confusing part: Fold back the two flaps, open up and tuck in to
make a small triangular flap

Step 6: You Get the Idea

1)Take the second-most flap and fold it diagonally outward to
make the planes wings

2)Repeat this step to make the other wing and take the two
flaps that were previously underneath the wings up

3)Fold the lowest and last flap diagonally on
both sides to make the back wings

Step 7: Almost Done...

1)Take the flaps that have a right-angled edge and fold them up vertically
so the wings are not too wide

2)turn over and fold the flaps at the bottom upwards

3)Fold in half like you would do as with a normal paper plane

Step 8: Finally...

1) Fold down both wings and adjust anything if
needed

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Introduction: The "Drone Fighter" Paper-plane! A piece of printer paper, a good pencil(optional) and a ruler(also optional) (You may skip this step if you know how to, or have a square piece of paper) 1) Fold the top part diagonally down and make a line on the bottom edge of the paper 2) Open up the fold and cut along the line so you have a square piece of paper.

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In this tutorial, I will show you how to make an origami Hawkeye Plane (Paper Airplane). Enjoy :D!I get a lot of requests asking about what type of paper and tools I...

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Learn how to make a printing paper origami pig (Piggy) tutorial. Design and video tutorial by Ventsislav Vasilev (Origamite) Background Music: Can you feel the love...

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buttin fabric

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how to make origami paper origami tank tutorial. What do you need: - one printing paper (A4 or Letter) - one small peice of paper for the weapon (i use paper with...

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yarn

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REALLY COOL STARWARS ORAGAMI!

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How to Fold an Origami Star Wars X-wing Starfighter

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Like Star Wars 7? Learn here how to make the Origami Star Wars X-wing Starfighter! It can be a little tricky, but with a little practice anyone can do it! Watch the...

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tolit paper owls

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St.Pats DAY!!!

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Love watermelon? Celebrate the upcoming summer with darling watermelon DIY's that pay tribute to the refreshing treat.

Pay homage to this summertime staple with these sweet DIYs!

Do YOU have a favorite watermelon DIY?
Let us know in the comments!

xoxo
Tatertots & Jello
TT&J on Facebook - where I love to share great ideas.
TT&J on Twitter
TT&J on Pinterest - my newest favorite place.

Article Posted 5 years Ago

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Love watermelon? Celebrate the upcoming summer with darling watermelon DIY's that pay tribute to the refreshing treat. Pay homage to this summertime staple with these sweet DIYs! Do YOU have a favorite watermelon DIY? Let us know in the comments! xoxo Tatertots & Jello TT&J on Facebook - where I love to share great ideas.

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Introduction: DIY CD Dragon Sculpture

There you have some instructions to make a CD dragon sculpture!
You are going to need :
- few meters of wire
- some old newspapers
- about 15 CDs
- some plastic

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Step 5: Some Photos :

There are some photos of my dragon and the dragon I made before. Enjoy !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYcObnrOYfw

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There you have some instructions to make a CD dragon sculpture! You are going to need : - few meters of wire - some old newspapers - about 15 CDs - some plastic Share There are some photos of my dragon and the dragon I made before. Enjoy !

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Step 1: Materials and Tools Needed for Project

1.) 14 pieces of wire at 8" long each (20 ga craft wire was used, 7 of two colors each were used to help with visuals).

2.) 28 smalls glass beads

3.) One old plastic coat button (A larger bead would be fine i just used the button since i had it and it matched my glass beads).

4.) Assorted jewelry pliers and cutters.

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Step 5: Legs, Head, and Final Steps.

With the wires you have sticking out to the side you can now start your legs. I separated these wires in 4 groups of 3 and twisted the legs ( You can do 4 groups of 4 for the legs if you desire, however I only had enough beads for a 3 toed lizard. Just make sure you allot for 4 more glass beads if you do so). The four spare wires not used for legs I took under the project and wrapped around the base of the tail. Slide a bead on each toe and bend the wire into a crook, if you find the bead is sliding on the toes you can give the foot a little twist until they are snug. Next at the top I slid as many wires as would fit through the button which left me two on the sides. I circled these around the neck and took the ones that went through the button under the head and circled and neck as well. The neck wraps were a little rough (my fault) so I added an extra piece of wire as a collar of sorts to cover it up. Lastly glue your lapel pin to the belly and show off your new lizard buddy!!! Hope you enjoyed this Instructable and enjoy creating!

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1.) 14 pieces of wire at 8" long each (20 ga craft wire was used, 7 of two colors each were used to help with visuals). 2.) 28 smalls glass beads 3.) One old plastic coat button (A larger bead would be fine i just used the button since i had it and it matched my glass beads).

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A step-by-step video guide to making my Tree Line cards using embroidery thread, simple tools, and some DIY holiday spirit. I've also included a pdf card...

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What's the best way to start getting ready for the
holiday season? Design and 3D print a custom Christmas ornament of course!

I originally created this Instuctable for the White House 3D Printed Ornament Competition. The inspiration for the design of this ornament began with the popular Christmas carol, Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer. From there, the ornament took on a life of it's own.

My goal for the competition was to design an ornament that would be impossible or REALLY hard to produce through any other method than 3D printing. The biggest challenge to this was designing something that could actually be 3D printed. While the intricate details can be beautiful, the ornament's geometry must have enough thickness for the 3D printer's head to actually lay the material. I show this validation process towards the beginning of the video above.

I created this ornament using SOLIDWORKS 2015 and used many modeling features to achieve it's elaborate design. Below are instructions on how I modeled and 3D printed this ornament. It lists every feature that was used and how they were applied in the design. Also, make sure to watch the video above to see the 3D printing process from start to finish.

*Download the STL file at the end of this Instructable to print the ornament yourself!

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What's the best way to start getting ready for theholiday season? Design and 3D print a custom Christmas ornament of course! I originally created this Instuctable for the White House 3D Printed Ornament Competition. The inspiration for the design of this ornament began with the popular Christmas carol, Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer.

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Introduction: Wild Animal Print Notebooks

This wild take on the homemade notebook project was inspired by Ann Lee's Tumblr Notebook project. You can see below the link to where I found the inspiration.
http://www.lifeannstyle.com/2014/07/diy-tumblr-inspired-notebooks/

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Step 1: Materials

What you need to make your own homemade notebooks are...

at least 2 packets of filler paper

animal printed cardstock

X-acto knife or scissors

PH Neutral adhesive or Mod Podge

a heavy book

sponge brush

binder clips

black craft paper

colorful labels

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This wild take on the homemade notebook project was inspired by Ann Lee's Tumblr Notebook project. You can see below the link to where I found the inspiration. http://www.lifeannstyle.com/2014/07/diy-tumblr-inspired-notebooks/ Share What you need to make your own homemade notebooks are...

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Dandeline-Lanterns/

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Introduction: Cute Corner Bookmarks!

These are hyper cute corner bookmarks that can be made in less than 5-minutes with any square piece of paper lying about in the house!

fun and easy to make!

Materials - paper, scissors and glue.

Step 1: Paper and Cutting

cut the paper in a 12 cm x 12 cm square. Then divide it into 4 parts as shown.

cut out the part shaded with pencil.

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Step 2: Folding and Gluing

fold according to the pictures. apply glue and fold the other part too.

Step 3: You're Done!

add some details to beautify your bookmark and you're done!
these can be made in all shapes, sizes and colours and are perfect gifts for children!

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These are hyper cute corner bookmarks that can be made in less than 5-minutes with any square piece of paper lying about in the house! fun and easy to make! Materials - paper, scissors and glue. cut the paper in a 12 cm x 12 cm square.

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Elijah Hull

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Introduction: Layered Wood Pendant Necklace

In this instructable, I'll show you how I made a pendant necklace from very thin wood veneers. My video of the project is already on my YouTube channel, Barb Makes Things, but I wanted to share a bit more about the process.

There are some really good instructables on the site about doing bent wood rings with wood veneers. I often go the other way and layer up flat pieces to make rings. I've done a number of them this way, and only recently decided to do a pendant necklace in a similar style.

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Step 1: Materials

What I used for this project. You might be able to accomplish it with other tools and materials if you don't have these on hand.

Wood veneer - I used a variety of types I got from Rockler

Glue for layer block - I've used both Super 77 and Titebond, I'll discuss my thoughts on them in the next step

Clamp/s for securing the layer block

Aluminum foil to protect surfaces

Dremel with sanding barrels

Various grit fine sandpapers

Drill and small drill bit

Hand saw

Cyanoacrylate, aka super glue

Cord to wear pendant

Step 2: Glue Layer Block

First, I cut small pieces of different wood veneers and made myself a varied stack that I liked. The next step involves gluing them together into a single block that you can carve and shape.

Previously, when making a ring from layered veneers (I'm wearing it in the video and photos for this step), I glued the block differently. With the ring, I used Titebond, clamped, and waited between 30 minutes and 12 hours to add the next layer. This makes for a seriously secure connection, but it also takes forever, and this is a larger stack of layers, so I decided to give spray adhesive a try.

I followed the instructions on the Super 77 container as closely as I could handle, waiting 30 seconds between spraying and adding the next layer to the block (don't believe the timing in the video, I edited out pauses). This method meant that I got them all glued together in a matter of hours instead of days. It needed some extra time to fully dry, another day or two, and I had to be careful not to dislodge them even after that.

Super 77 has tradeoffs. It's faster, but you have to be more careful in the next step and take your time, and you definitely need to have a good, strong finishing coat.

Step 3: Shape the Pendant

Once the block had dried, I removed it from the clamp, drew a rough shape and began to cut away at it with a razor saw to get closer to the desired shape.

Most of the shaping work was done with a dremel rotary tool and several sanding bands. Due to the large amount of adhesive, the sanding bands became gunked up quickly, so I had to switch them out and clean them.

I changed tack midway through, deciding to cut it in half and go with vertical lines, rather than something resembling a topographic map as I'd originally planned. The nice thing about this was that I then had enough for two pendants.

I drilled a hole to hang it from, and finished this step with several finer grit sandpapers to get the finished shape nice and smooth.

Step 4: Apply Finish

There are a ton of options for this step. I wound up using a tung oil finish to bring out the colors, then let it dry.

The ring I mentioned previously has a cyanoacrylate coat, and it is strong. Seriously. I do woodworking wearing it, I wash my hands with it on, and it's lasted months. So, especially knowing how little I trusted the Super 77 in keeping the layers together in the long run, I made sure to do a couple good coats of superglue.

I like using a bottle with a brush rather than trying to squeeze the glue onto the wood exactly where you want it. It doesn't always get the smoothest surface on its own, so I sanded afterwards with increasingly fine grit sandpapers to get a nice even surface. You can do several coats this way and sand it to get the surface even. If you go high enough with your sandpapers and polish it enough, you can get yourself a nice shiny finish. I stopped short of that, because I kind of liked the matte look.

Note: Superglues like to say that they only take a few seconds to dry. Do not believe them, not for this application, anyway. You're putting a thick coat of glue on. It's best to give it at least a few hours to dry before even trying to touch it. If you touch it too soon, you'll get very very visible marks and have to sand down and do it again.

Step 5: Add the Cord

You can add a jump ring if you like, or just run a cord through the hole. I went with the latter.

Step 6: Fin

This project turned out looking really nice, and it all comes down to taking the time in the shaping and finishing steps to get things really smooth.

Take a look at my YouTube channel, Barb Makes Things, where I post a high speed video of a new project every Tuesday. I might do a more detailed instructable of how I did my layered veneer ring if anyone is interested.

Thanks for reading and watching!

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
In this instructable, I'll show you how I made a pendant necklace from very thin wood veneers. My video of the project is already on my YouTube channel, Barb Makes Things, but I wanted to share a bit more about the process.

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Introduction: How to Make Easy Wire Wrapped Heart Shaped Earrings

Do you like heart shaped jewelry? In this Pandahall tutorial, you can see an easy tutorial on how to make wire wrapped heart shaped earrings. Can you image that you can DIY unique heart earrings just with some wires and beads? In this easy DIY project, you can learn how to make wire wrapped heart shaped earrings just in 10 minutes. The materials needed in the DIY heart earrings are minimal. Now, let's see the simple instructions.

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Step 1: Supplies Needed in DIY the Wire Wrapped Heart Shaped Earrings:

8mm Red Bicone Faceted Beads

0.8mm Silver Copper Wire

Silver Headpins

Needle Nose Plier

Round Nose Plier

Diagonal Plier

Step 2: Make Wire Wrapped Heart

Cut a piece of 0.8mm silver copper wire and wrap it into a heart shape (as shown in the picture).

Step 3: Add Beads

1st, combine a 8mm red bicone faceted bead with a silver headpin;

2nd, make a loop on the other end of the silver headpin. Then, combine it with the silver heart (as shown I the picture);

Step 4: Repeat the Above Steps to Make a Yellow Heart Shaped Earring and a Purple Heart Shaped Earring.

Here is the final look of the wire wrapped heart shaped earrings.

Just with the above two simple instructions, you can make the heart shape earrings. But do remind that be careful of your hands during the wire wrapping process. The difficult level of this DIY project is easy. Green hands can have a try!

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How to Make Easy Wire Wrapped Heart Shaped Earrings

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Do you like heart shaped jewelry? In this Pandahall tutorial, you can see an easy tutorial on how to make wire wrapped heart shaped earrings. Can you image that you can DIY unique heart earrings just with some wires and beads?

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Introduction: Book Page Roses

I am obsessed with repurposing old books and love making paper flowers, so I have decided to show you how I have joined both my passions to make - book page roses.
There are many variations on how to make paper roses, however I feel this is one of the easiest and quickest methods to achieve a realistic looking flower.
If you like my tutorial then please vote for me in the 'Book it' contest. Your vote is muchly appreciated.

6 People Made This Project!

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Step 1: Materials

You will need:
- a medium sized old damaged book that won't matter if you rip the pages out of. Please do your research and ensure you aren't destroying a first edition one of a kind antique book.
- scissors
- hot glue and hot glue gun
- a stem, I use cloth covered wire from the local craft shop, but you could also use a recycled coat hanger, skewer or thin stick as a stem
- a toothpick or skewer

Step 2: Make the Petals

You will need to cut 3 squares of equal size from the pages of an old book. I use 11cmx11cm squares, obviously the bigger the square the bigger the rose.
Fold each square into a triangle, and another triangle and then another triangle. The end result should be a third of the size of the first triangle. I hope the pictures help, you will have 3 small folded triangles.
Take one of the small triangles and keep it folded with pointed end facing down. Cut the open top to make a dome shape (it should look like an icecream cone). Use this shape as a template to cut the other two triangles into icecream cones, make sure the folded edge is facing the same way each time.
Place all 3 together and cut off the bottom point.
Unfold each piece and cut them as shown in the photos. Altogether you will have 6 petal pieces consisting of - 1 petal, 2 petals, 3 petals, 5 petals, 6 petals and 7 petals.

Step 3: Glue and Curl the Petals

Recrease each fold on the petals to a valley fold so they all sit the same way.
Using a hot glue gun (because it bonds so fast) stick the edges together on the 3, 5, 6 and 7 petal pieces as shown in the photos.
Use a skewer or toothpick to curl the edges of the petals, however curl the 1 and 2 petal pieces (separately) completely around themselves.
Compile the rose starting with the biggest number of petals on the bottom working your way up to the smallest, gluing as you go. For example: place a circle of hot glue on the bottom of the 6 petal piece and sit it on top of the 7 petal piece, press it together so the glue will stick. Do the same with the next piece and so on, eventually the base of the 3, 2 and 1 petal pieces will poke through the hole in the middle of the flower.
As you are compiling the flower make sure each layer of petals sit off centre to the previous. Work quickly as the glue will set fast.
The end result will be a book page rose with a small hole through the centre.

Step 4: Add a Stem

Put a decent dab of glue on the end of your chosen stem. Place the unglued end down the centre of the completed flower and pull it through so the glued end sits inside the flower. Wait for the glue to set.
You have now completed a book page rose. Make a bunch and display them in your favourite vase or give them to friends as gifts. The best thing is they will never wilt or die.

Step 5: Tips

- Add colour to your book page roses by marking the end of the petal with a texta or use an ink dabbler for a more blended look.
- Older books with yellowed pages also look effective.
- You can also use old atlas paper or recycle sheet music to make these paper roses
- Cut the petals into different shapes for various effects i.e. pointed petal flowers (no photo of this)

Enjoy!

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
I am obsessed with repurposing old books and love making paper flowers, so I have decided to show you how I have joined both my passions to make - book page roses. There are many variations on how to make paper roses, however I feel this is one of the easiest and quickest methods to achieve a realistic looking flower.

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Stick wands

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Kids crafts can be an excellent way to pass some free time. Not only will craft projects give you something to do, it will also keep kids entertained for hours. ...

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I built a little 3 wheeled car to drive around my house. I built it just for fun and it would be great for kids. See the video below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DTjssGms8I&list=UUTYbMALV5XenyKIcTXUJbzg
One day I challenged myself to build a small electric car that I could use to drive around my house. I wanted to only use supplies I already had so it would be free for me. I used the following materials:

scrap wood (2x3, plywood 3/8 thick)

wheels (3 Rollerblade wheels with ball bearings)

wood screws (1 inch, 2.5 inch)

Switch (from old vacuum)

windshield wiper motor (worm gear motor found for free)

Homemade wood wheel (connected to motor)

Battery pack, 12V (built from laptop batteries for under $3)

Door hinges (used for steering and motor pivot)

Rubber tie strap (for drive wheel)
Tools needed
drill

saw (hand or jig saw)

screw driver

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Indoor Electric Car (for Cheap Under $5)

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I built a little 3 wheeled car to drive around my house. I built it just for fun and it would be great for kids. See the video below. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DTjssGms8I&list=UUTYbMALV5XenyKIcTXUJbzg One day I challenged myself to build a small electric car that I could use to drive around my house.

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Introduction: 5 Minute Shock-Resistant Camera Case for Under $5

This camera case takes only a few minutes to make, is completely customizable, and on average, should cost like $1 to make! This project uses simple materials you can pick up just about anywhere. So what are you waiting for?

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Step 1: Materials

You know that squishy stuff you can get to line drawers, or put under carpets to keep them from sliding? Non-skid mat type stuff? That's what this is made of. I will henceforth refer to this material as "squishy stuff." I also deem squishy stuff to be shock resistant, mostly based on the number of times I've dropped my camera in this case without any damage. Just don't try it from the top of a water tower (you know who you are).You've been warned.

* 1 sheet squishy stuff
* 1 piece velcro
* Needle and thread, or sewing machine
* A piece of paper
* Scissors
* Ruler (opt but handy)
* Pen or pencil (opt but handy)

Step 2: Make a Template

The easiest way to make a template is to put your camera on a piece of paper, and fold the paper up around it, creasing along the edges. When you uncrease the paper, you'll have your stitching lines.

The second picture shows me folding the paper up along the bottom of the camera. You don't necessarily want it to go all the way to the top edge of the camera. Think of an envelope - the extra open space at the top makes it easier to remove the contents.

Crease the edges too so you know how deep to make the case.

Fold the top down and crease where you want the edge of that to be. (third picture)

Unfold, and mark where your creases were. Notice in picture 4 how much space is on each side of the camera. This will allow the fabric - pardon me - squishy stuff to bend around the edges of the camera without being too tight.

Step 3: Cut Squishy Stuff

If you like, taper the edges of the top fold of the camera case to make it more envelope like. Totally optional. Use your paper template to cut the shape out of the squishy stuff.

Step 4: Add Velcro

Before you sew the sides shut, you want to make sure to add your closure.

Sticky velcro will not cut it, not for one second. Well, it will for the first second, but after you open it once, you're done.

So cut a piece of sew-on velcro about 1" big. Sew it to the outside of the bottom flap and the inside of the top flap. If this is confusing, just fold the squishy stuff around your camera like it will be when it's finished. You'll see where the velcro needs to go. Or look at the picture.

If you're sewing by hand, go forth. If you're sewing by machine, you'll need something to help the squishy stuff slide over the feed dogs. The solution: paper!

Get the scraps of paper from the pattern you cut out, and place one between the squishy stuff and the sewing machine.

Sew sew sew, and then gently tear the paper away from the case.

Step 5: Sew the Sides

Again, if you're using a sewing machine, you'll want to cover the squishy stuff with paper. This time we'll cover both sides, since I discovered presser feet don't like the squishy stuff any more than the feed dogs do.

So take a scrap of paper, and fold it over the edge you're going to sew. Might as well get both of them ready to sew at the same time.

Sew sew sew, (remember to backstitch at each edge!) and carefully tear away paper.

Step 6: Now for the Hard Part

Oh, hey! You're done! That's it - no hard part at all. Put your camera in your new case and hit the road. Or, if you're feeling generous, make a bunch more for your friends. Make cases for your phone or mp3 player. You've got all that squishy stuff left over, after all. It makes a great, thoughtful (and inexpensive!) gift that your friends will love. Just ask Randofo!

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5 Minute Shock-Resistant Camera Case for Under $5

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This camera case takes only a few minutes to make, is completely customizable, and on average, should cost like $1 to make! This project uses simple materials you can pick up just about anywhere. So what are you waiting for?

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Introduction: Craft Stick Mouse Trap

This project emulates the same mechanism that is used in a real mousetrap.
If you enjoy this project, then please consider pledging on Patreon.
More engineering projects || Everything I make

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Step 1: Materials

Please message me to report broken links. All of these materials are used in my other Instructables for kids, so your purchases can be used across multiple projects.
Materials for one craft stick mouse trap:

Step 2: Make the Base and Arm

The hinge for the mousetrap arm is created by threading a thin skewer through three cubes with holes. A small piece of tape is wrapped on the ends of the skewer to prevent the cubes from sliding off.

Students can typically create this part of the mousetrap without any difficulty. The process is straightforward and easy to follow. Just make sure that they leave a little bit of space at the end of the arm; the cube should not be at the very tip.

Step 3: Attach the Rubberband

If you've attached the rubberband correctly, the mousetrap arm should look like the last photo when being pull back. It can slam down with enough force to hurt - careful! Warn your students that at this point they should never put their hands under the spot where the mousetrap hits. I suggest marking the area with an X or other signifier.

This is where it can get tricky. Most kids do not know how to tie this kind of knot, so show them how to do it a few times. Explain it like this: put the mousetrap on the rubberband; put one side of the rubberband through the other; pull tightly.

Attaching the rubberband is not very intuitive. Emphasize that the rubberband should go under the mousetrap, then loop it onto the end of the arm.

Alternatively, the rubberband can be attached in many different ways to create different amounts of tension, which may be desirable if you're concerned about safety.

Step 4: Make the Trigger

The trigger is formed by cracking a skewer, not completely breaking it. The cracked area is then taped to keep the skewer together. Cut it to size.

The very tip of the skewer needs to be slightly bent to create a sensitive trigger. Some students have difficulty understanding the subtlety of this. For young students, I recommend simply doing this step for them.

Loosely secure a cable tie next to the area where the mousetrap hits, then slide the trigger through it.

Step 5: Set It Up

Setting up the mousetrap can take patience and practice. The setup is simple, but to create a realistic mousetrap that has a sensitive and reliable trigger requires very fine motor skills.

The tip of the trigger needs to be positioned just right. Students should firmly hold the mousetrap arm while adjusting the trigger. When the mousetrap is ready to go, make sure students remove their hands from the target area, then let go of the arm.

The skewer goes under the hinge and the bent tip goes in the arm. The other end of the trigger should point upward at a 45-degree angle. To set off the trap, simply agitate the end of the trigger.

Step 6: Advanced Ideas: Catapult / Bowling

This catapult incorporates the same design as the mousetrap frame. The low and sturdy design fires projectiles more straight than upwards. Students can work on improving their ability to judge the trajectory of the projectiles by playing 'bowling.' To bowl, stack plastic cups into pyramids at least 10' away and try to knock them down.

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This project emulates the same mechanism that is used in a real mousetrap. If you enjoy this project, then please consider pledging on Patreon. More engineering projects || Everything I make Share Please message me to report broken links. All of these materials are used in my other Instructables for kids, so your purchases can be used across multiple projects.

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Introduction: Hexapod Robot Based on FPGA

This is a hexapod robot which consists of twelve DC servo motor controlled by a FPGA chip.The framework is programmable and extendible.we can design different programs to make the robot react in different ways.
I was inspired by the Kondo KMR-M6 Robot .(Kondo is an Japanese company makes robot models) I like this kind of modern toys but they are always too expensive to afford . Then just make one by hand ,I thought.
The general idea is to carve every part of a single leg with plywood ,which takes a long time, and then try to copy it with PU glues since the robot gets six legs.
Now let's begin.

(POOR ENGLISH , SORRY)

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Step 1: What You Might Need

EQUIPMENT:

saw , electric grinder , electric drill, pencil, screwdriver,caliper

MATERIAL:

plywood , PU resin , silicon ,
screws,nuts,ball bearing

OTHERS:

servo motors, CAD and EDA software , FPGA Minimum system board(I choosed Altera CycloneII)

Step 2: 3D Model and 2D Blueprint

Duo to the requirement of accuracy for the models , we need to create a 3D model for the hexapod robot using CAD tools such as AUTODESK AUTOCAD software, so that you can adjust the robot's size and shape quite easily.
What? You never touched autocad before? OK,neither did I.But I learned it and draw the model within one week . One good way to use this kind of software is to learn just the parts which you exactly need.
Every single leg has two rotational degrees of freedom, one for Horizontal rotation the other for vertical movement. The vertical motion mechanism is a parallelogram structure which is can easily rotate and keep the claw upright. We can simulate the movement through some simulation tools , for example Autodesk ForceEffect on mobile device.

Step 3: Make Prototype Parts

I must say that this is so demanding a job to make every single part by hand.If there was 3D printer in my house , I should not had suffered this. That's why we made a 3D model first.
I don't have to say much about this part because this is a prototype, we just need to make the shape.Use your saw , electric grinder , electric drill, pencil, screwdriver,caliper, whatever you can use.
The key point is to drill very accurately according to the diameter of the screws you choose so that every part can be installed together.

Step 4: Electrical and Mechanical Debug

In this step , we have to make sure that the prototype leg can move properly. Also to make sure the servo motor can be driven properly by the FPGA chip.
Let's take a look at the DC servo motor. It consists of a electric motor, driving the gears , a reduction gear pack , providing huge moment of force , and a feedback component, judging and keeping the position of gear. Three input lines are led out , power, gnd and ctrl lines. Power and gnd lines lead to the 5-8V power supply . The ctrl line leads to the GPIO port of FPGA chip, which send out a PWM signal that drive the motor gears to a certain position .
Write some simple modules by verilog in can realize most functions you can imagine. I used Altera CycloneII FPGA chip here with QuartusII software because it is relatively cheap , efficient and easily buying.
What? You have never touched verilog or quartus before? Neither did I . Just learn and use it .
After we can make sure the prototype leg works properly , we shall move to next step.

Step 5: Copy the Prototype With PU Glue

In this step , which is not necessary at all if you have a 3D printer, we will try to make several copies of the prototype leg.
Firstly, to pour a part with silicone ,or other material alike, combined with coagulant .Dig the part out after the silicone concrete.Then we get a mould here.Careful when digging out the part , choose a proper direction since we will pour liquid into the mould later.
After getting all the moulds , we need PU glue now. PU glues are divided into two bottles of A and B liquid .The A and B liquid get concreted after mixed with each other on a 1-for-1 basis..You might need to make several attempts.Be careful when mixing the liquid because this makes huge amount of heat.
Do some polishing and carving, all the parts are ready.

Step 6: Installation and Wiring

I list all the components that make up a single leg in the first picture , include 7 M3 screws and nuts , 10 M2 screws and nuts , 14 M3 ball-bearings , 2 DC servo motors and other components we made in the previous steps.
For convenience, I took the prototype here as an example.I took pictures of every steps. Install all the components of each legs step by step .Then fix them on the chassis.
We have altogether 12 motors and 36 lines here.Bend the lines around the trestles and through the bottom .Power and GND lines stick into the pins of power supply board. Signal lines stick into the GPIO ports of the GPGA chip board which can be assigned in QuartusII software. Then put on the battery pack containing 8 1.5v batteries , four of which connected in series and both groups of four connected in parallel. That comes the 6V power supply of the robot. Via the LDOs on the chip board , the 5v supply is transformed into 3.3v ,2.5v or 1.2v that the chip needs.
On the top of the robot stands a infrared sensor. In this first generation , I temporarily use a IR sensor to receive a IR signal from a remote controller which follows the general IR remote protocol, such as NEC protocol .

Step 7: Extention

Finally we have finished most parts of this creation. It really takes your effort to make it. Now it is a programmable electromechanical robot . How it moves or reacts totally depends on how you design the program. That's one important reason why I chose the FPGA platform, which is convenient to design and easy to debug.
During the program debugging , there are still many problems need to be solved for example the motor tremble caused by the inertia of the leg.
What is the usage of this robot? I'm not quite sure , but at least it is a toy and a programmable device for FPGA training.
Last but not least ,you can extend it's function as you wish.For example , I used a IR sensor in this first generation , but we can absolutely extend it with a wifi module and wifi communication protocol and maybe write a IOS app to control it with your IPHONE.In addition, we can set a camera in the front of the chassis so that it can transmit images and videos or embed a image processing modules to search for a certain aim.
Finally thank you for your kind reading. This is my first time to write instructables, and I am glad to hear your feedback . If you have any question or suggestion , please me leave a message. Declare again that this robot is Inspired by the Kondo KMR-M6 Robot on ASIC platform and this article is for interest only, no business purpose.

adam wang
2013.02.27

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This is a hexapod robot which consists of twelve DC servo motor controlled by a FPGA chip.The framework is programmable and extendible.we can design different programs to make the robot react in different ways. I was inspired by the Kondo KMR-M6 Robot .(Kondo is an Japanese company makes robot models) I like this kind of modern toys but they are always too expensive to afford .

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CD clock

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Step 2: Draw Lines

Exactly what the title says, just take the marker and draw lines on the back of the cds so they turn out looking pizzas.

Step 3: Cut

Now using the sissors, CAREFULLY cut along your lines. I say carefully because I broke several cds in this procceedure. After cutting take a few pieces of each cd and try to fit them into a new cd as seen in the picture.

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Step 4: The Clock

Now that the cd is ready its time to prep the clock. If its a cheap walmart clock or any other cheap clock it just pops apart. If this isnt the case for your clock grab a hammer and go at it! all you need is the gear holder aka thing that makes clock tick.

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Exactly what the title says, just take the marker and draw lines on the back of the cds so they turn out looking pizzas. Now using the sissors, CAREFULLY cut along your lines. I say carefully because I broke several cds in this procceedure.

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To go with Izzy's String Dome

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The attached dxf file can be used to lasercut the 12 hubs that are needed.

The hubs should be cut out of 1/32" thick plastic (PETG or equivalent).

You can also print out the pdf version on 8-1/2" x 11 paper to use as a template for cutting them out with scissors or with utility knife on a cutting mat. This is best done by temporarily mounting the paper on your sheet of plastic with a light coat of spray mount, then peeling the paper off along with the plastic sheet's protective layer after the cutting is completed.

Pre-cut hubs are also available on Etsy:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/266479491/hub-kit-for-making-an-icosahedron-out-of?ref=listings_manager_grid
Attachments

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Make an Icosahedron Out of Plastic Straws

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The attached dxf file can be used to lasercut the 12 hubs that are needed. The hubs should be cut out of 1/32" thick plastic (PETG or equivalent). You can also print out the pdf version on 8-1/2" x 11 paper to use as a template for cutting them out with scissors or with utility knife on a cutting mat.

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V

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Introduction: String Art

I decided that I wanted to expand my art horizons and do something different, that not a lot of people see. String art! I've taught myself how to do this and would like to share with others. You need patience and time for this, but the end result will be worth it!

For this instructable I will show you the basics of how to make your own string art. We will start with something simple, like a word. I'm going to make the word "family" in string.

Supplies needed:

-Birchwood plywood (for the word family, my piece of wood is 20" x 4")

-Steel wire nails: size 1 x 18 (from Lowes)

-Craft paint (I used brown)

-Scissors

-scotch tape

-Paint brush

-A hammer

-Dmc floss from ACmoore (I picked basic white)

-A printed out template for nailing

-A towel (optional-for underneath the wood so the nails don't nail into the table!)

3 People Made This Project!

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Step 1: Paint

Paint your piece of wood with your acrylic paint (I chose brown).

Paint two coats.

Don't forget the sides of the wood.

No need to paint the bottom of the wood.

Dry time: 20 minutes

Step 2: Template

Place your template on the wood where you want to nail it. I put mine centered equally.

Just use a few pieces of tape to secure the template on.

I posted the pdf file of the family template.

Attachments

Step 3: Nailing

Grab your steel nails, you are ready to start the nailing step.

Place your nail around the edge of the letter and hammer in place.

Do not nail too far down because you will go through the wood. Have about a half inch of the nail showing when you hammer it in.

For the rest of the nailing process, make sure to have an appropriate distance between each nail. About 3/4" distance between the nails.

REMEMBER- we are nailing around the letter

Step 4: Remove Template

Once you've finished nailing, remove the template. Carefully pull the template up from the nails. Try not to pull so hard, or the nail will come out of the wood.

Discard the template.

Step 5: Knotting

You are now ready to string!

Knot your first nail. Know twice to keep string secure.

Step 6: Stringing

Once you've made your first knot, the next process you wrap the string around the next nail once and move on to the next nail to create an outline for the letter.

Keep doing this process until you get to the end of the letter and you clearly see an outline.

Step 7: Stringing (continued)

Once you get to the end of making the outline of the letter, start wrapping the string around random nails to fill up the space.

(You can crisscross the string) There is no specific way to do this, you just need to fill in the space.

After this process is done, knot the string twice on the last nail of that letter. Cut off excess string.

Step 8: Stringing (continued)

After this process is done and you filled up the letter, knot the string twice on the last nail of that letter.

Cut off excess string.

Repeat this process for all letters.

Step 9: Finished!

You're all done!

I decided to set this on my mantle. You can also hang this up anywhere, it's a great home decor piece.

I also provided images of the other string arts I made using the same instructions and techniques!

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
I decided that I wanted to expand my art horizons and do something different, that not a lot of people see. String art! I've taught myself how to do this and would like to share with others. You need patience and time for this, but the end result will be worth it!

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After much experimentation this is what I found works best.

I drilled a turkey pan down to a piece of wood with washers so it wouldn't tip over.

1 quart of paint to 1 roll of 264 yard red heart white yarn. Put the yarn an paint into the pan. Squeeze the paint all into the yarn. Tap two poles into the ground an arms length apart, slightly angled so the string doesn't touch the ground.

While one person squeegee's the paint on the yarn and unwrapping the roll into the paint, another person wraps around the drying poles. This is the very tedious part. Make sure you don't leave any white parts on the string. When you get to the end of the roll it will want to tangle. Instead of trying to pull it apart, carefully unwrap the painted yarn ball flipping it over. If you pull on it it will make a ton of slip knots, and well, thats no fun.

Set the yarn carefully to dry, you may want to fan the strings apart every 4-5 hours if really wet with paint. After drying, roll up the yarn on a dowel. If the yarn isn't tangled too much you can put the dowel or stick on a drill gun and wrap it up efficiently.

UV paint, you get what you pay for. Cheap paint will be dull and not as bright. Also since UV is the spectrum of purple, I would avoid using purple paint as it is the least brightest UV pigment. It's expensive but I've learned to used wildfire paint over the years.

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After much experimentation this is what I found works best. I drilled a turkey pan down to a piece of wood with washers so it wouldn't tip over. 1 quart of paint to 1 roll of 264 yard red heart white yarn. Put the yarn an paint into the pan.

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We could just get some rocks and paint them.

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Straw flute

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Introduction: Straw Flute

Huzzah! Welcome to your ticket to first chair at the fast food restaurant orchestra! With your new straw flute, you are sure to razzle, dazzle, or at least mildly annoy those around you. For the full effect, have 30 first graders make them and impress their parents at assembly. :)

This project is quick, loud, and yet there is an amazing amount that you can learn about sound and pitch through these small instruments. Play, modify, and make some noise!

The details:

What: A straw flute!

Time: ~ 3 minutes

Cost of Materials: ~ 2 cents

Materials: Straw (medium gage)

Tools: Scissors

Concepts: Sound, Pitch, Resonance, Wind

2 People Made This Project!

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Step 1: Cut Your Mouthpiece

Cut one end of your straw to a point. Start by squeezing one end together with your fingers, and then cutting two angular cuts to get a triangle.

After you do this, you can even play it now! Sound will come from placing the triangle between your teeth, clamping down a bit, and blowing to make the triangular tip vibrate. It takes a minute to get right, but once you do, you're golden!

Step 2: Cut Your Flute Holes

Let's give our flute some range! Add flute holes by bending the straw and cutting small triangular notches. When you unfold it, you'll reveal your diamond-shaped flute hole.

You can add a couple, and cover or uncover them with your fingers to get different tones. Each tone will depend on where you place them. If you want to check what note you're making, you can use this free online tuner here which uses your computer microphone.

Step 3: You're Done!

Congratulations! You can do all sorts of modifications so let's see what you make!

This is fun for yourself or for a class on sound. Try cutting the straw to different lengths to see what happens to pitch. You can also try calculating where the holes should go to make full chromatic scales.

If you're interested, this is a resource on the physics behind flutes.

Happy fluting!

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Huzzah! Welcome to your ticket to first chair at the fast food restaurant orchestra! With your new straw flute, you are sure to razzle, dazzle, or at least mildly annoy those around you. For the full effect, have 30 first graders make them and impress their parents at assembly.

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Fly your drone over water with out the fear of having to touch down with obvious consequences for the camera and all those sensitive electronic components.
So how do you make your drone float, with an estimated mass of around 2Kg including the camera its a simple matter of countering the mass. An object will float if the gravitational (downward) force is less than the buoyancy (upward) force. So, in other words, an object will float if it weighs less than the amount of water it displaces.

To be sure it would float i identified the 350q modelling balloons as an ideal choice for this project. 3 being the diameter 3" and 50 the length 50". When fully inflated it equates to just under 6 liters or an off set of 6Kg per balloon. With one balloon per side lets say there are extra components on the drone and when floating on the water the balloons are submerged half under, half on top of the water this still equals a total allowable mass of 6Kg, more than enough for the job.

The brackets will simply click onto the bottom of the existing drone legs and the balloons squeezes into the bracket. There is huge potential for this design, with a water proof coating for the 3d printed part and the use of a water proof camera the user could develop the idea to intentionally film under water while keeping their feet dry, or even develop it as an emergency device to inflate on command with a small co2 canister, as a complimentary design to the drop safe add on for the DJI Phantom 3 Advanced Quadcopter!!!!!

Please feel free to download the design and refine it, or if someone could give me the actual dimensions of the bottom of the legs where my brackets will fasten to i could do it myself. Either way let me know what you think. See link below for balloons.
http://www.amazon.com/Orange-350q-Qualatex-Modell...

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Fly your drone over water with out the fear of having to touch down with obvious consequences for the camera and all those sensitive electronic components.So how do you make your drone float, with an estimated mass of around 2Kg including the camera its a simple matter of countering the mass.

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Introduction: Milkshake Straw Lightsabers

My son and his cousins were excited to see the new Star Wars movie over the holiday break, and the night before we went I was inspired to make light sabers for all the kids (okay, and for the adults ;) ). What I came up with was simple and cheap at less than $1 per lightsaber. And they're small enough (about 10.5") that they can easily be stored in a back pocket or be sneaked into a theater in a purse. They won't last forever (if nothing else, the batteries will die eventually), but they look cool, especially in the dark. Don't be surprised if you find yourself making your own lightsaber sounds as you swing these around.

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Step 1: Gather Materials and Tools

Materials

Finger lights (two per lightsaber, in appropriate colors; one light forms the base, the other merely supplies the cap at the end of the straw; as DarylM11 points out in the comments below, these can be bought for under $0.15 per light on Amazon)

Milkshake straws (mine were "Good Cook" brand, 25 ct., 9" long, and 3/8" wide, found at a Walmart Neighborhood Market; picture of packaging above; they're hard to find online, but these would probably work)

Electrical tape (black)

Glue (any superglue or other glue that will hold plastic together well)

Something to diffuse light in the straw (I pulled a piece of thin plastic from the innards of a broken store-bought light sword, from which I got enough to do about 10 lightsabers; transparency film, light diffusion paper, or even parchment paper or thin copy paper might work just as well or better)

Scrap of white or reflective paper

Paint or markers in lightsaber colors (to color in the scrap of paper blocking the tip of the straw)

Tools Tips from Commenters

From CraftNucleus: Decorate the handle of your lightsaber with metallic sharpie pens.

From dave.vaness.79: Acetate can be acquired at copy stores or office supply stores. Just ask for transparency film. Probably the thinner the better.

Thanks to slimtb for suggesting I help readers visualize how big these lightsabers are. See "banana for scale" image above.

Step 2: Assemble the Blade and Light Source

Trim the acetate slightly shorter than the straw and a few inches wide. Roll up the acetate and slide it into the milkshake straw (going around a pencil is useful in rolling it tight enough to fit in the straw). You could get away without the acetate, but it seems to help catch and diffuse the light throughout the lightsaber.

Glue the bottom of the straw to the finger light. Leave sit until glue sets somewhat.

Cut a small circle of white or reflective paper to fill the hole in an extra cap from another finger light.

Glue this cap into the end of the straw opposite the finger light. (This keeps the light from shining directly at others' eyes through the end of the straw, and reflects some of the light back into the straw.)

Paint or color in with a marker the paper circle now at the end of the straw to make it blend in with the color of the lightsaber.

Step 3: Tape Up the Handle

Place small strips of electrical tape over the finger light and bottom of straw, strengthening the connection between them. Cut tape to fit dimensions of finger light and avoid blocking movement of switch.

Decorate with colored tape, metallic sharpies, etc., if desired.

Step 4: Stage Epic Miniature Lightsaber Battles

Make a bunch and see who goes for the red ones first, revealing their allegiance to the dark side.

May the force be with you!

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
My son and his cousins were excited to see the new Star Wars movie over the holiday break, and the night before we went I was inspired to make light sabers for all the kids (okay, and for the adults ;) ). What I came up with was simple and cheap at less than $1 per lightsaber.

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Introduction: Magnetic Animal Photo Holders

When I saw these awesome " Animag Photo Holders" in the Photojojo store, I knew they would be a perfect DIY project. They're great for holding photos up to 4x6, as well as business cards, greeting cards, and other small pieces of paper.

The concept is easy: cut an animal figurine (or almost any solid figurine) in half, drill a few holes, and glue in magnets. The magnets exert enough force to hold the two halves together, and support the weight of thin objects (like photos).

I made this set as a gift for Scoochmaroo, for the Instructables Gift Exchange.

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Step 1: Tools and Materials

Well, the requirements are pretty basic.

Tools

A bandsaw or scroll saw - I'm not sure that any other saw would work.
A drill press
A 5/16" drill bit (I used a brad point bit, it helps with alignment of the bit)
An X-acto knife
A pencil
Sandpaper
Scrap paper (or tracing paper, if you have it)
Thin double sided tape (optional)

Materials

Plastic Animal Figurines (I used genuine Schleich figurines from my local hardware store)
8mm diameter neodymium magnets (I bought a 100-pack, Sku 13518 from DealExtreme)
Two-part epoxy or superglue

Step 2: Cut the Animals in Half

How's that for a title? But that's literally what you have to do! I have to admit, I felt really bad doing this step - I've watched Toy Story with my kids far too many times for me to think of toys as mere inanimate objects...

But, we must press on!

For each animal, think carefully about the direction of the cut. Some animals are looking to the left or to the right - you may want to cut on an angle so that the animal and the photo are both facing somewhat in the same direction. Also be very careful not to cut off any feet, tails, or other body parts that aren't firmly attached to the body on both halves! There will be some figurines that you simply can't use for this reason; there just isn't a way to cut it cleanly in two.

You must use either a band saw or a scroll saw to cut the figurine. These saws are capable of giving a perfectly straight cut, with a narrow kerf. This is important because you want to remove as little material as possible (ideally, the thickness of a piece of paper!) Use a thin blade with a high tooth count, to get the smoothest cut possible.

Line up the figurine and start up the saw. Take a deep breath, apologize profusely, and feed it straight through. The plastic is soft and cuts without much issue, but cut quickly - the plastic will melt otherwise.

The cut will be a little rough and there will be a bit of plastic left behind. Trim the excess plastic with an X-acto knife, and lightly sand the cut on a flat surface to remove a bit of the roughness.

Step 3: Mark the Drill Locations

Well, the easy part is over. Marking the drill locations is tricky, because of the precision required on such small, non-square objects.

On all of the animals I made, I was able to fit two pairs of magnets. On some (the jaguar and pig) it was a bit of a squeeze, but others (the elephant) there was lots of room. Ideally, the magnets should be spaced at least a millimeter apart if you can manage it. I'd avoid using a figurine onto which you can only fit one magnet - it's not likely to be able to hold up very much weight. The other benefit of using two magnets is that you can align the poles so that the two halves automatically align.

Take one half of each animal, and trace its outline on a piece of paper. Note which animal the outline is for, and which half the outline was taken from. Now, mark the centers of the magnets onto the outline, staying away from edges if possible. I used my calipers for this - I simply measured the diameter of the magnet, added a millimeter or two, then poked holes into the outline using the points of the caliper. But, freehand is fine too. Once the centers are marked, poke holes through the paper at these points.

Realign the animal half with its outline (be precise!!) and turn it over. You should be able to see the two holes. Stick a pin through each hole, making marks on the figurine. Remove the outline and push the pin in deeper if the marks aren't visible enough.

Next, do the other half. But there's a trick: Since the saw removed some material from between the halves, you may have to offset the outline to compensate. The steeper the angle of the cut, the more you'll have to offset. So, I'll divide this step into two sub-steps:

Perpendicular cut

OK, so the figurine was cut at an angle perpendicular (90 degrees) to its "spine." In this case, hold the figurine against the back of the outline, and use a light to align the two. Again, try to be as precise as possible. Poke the pin through the two holes as before.

Angle cut

If the figurine was cut on an angle, you'll have to offset the outline a bit. Align the second half of the figurine and the outline as with a perpendicular cut. The offset will be about 1mm for a 45 degree cut, and a fraction of a millimeter between 45 and 90 (perpendicular). The direction (whether to shift the outline left or right) will depend on the angle of the cut. If the cut goes from the animal's front right leg to its rear left leg, then the outline will be shifted to the left. If it's cut from the front left to the rear right, then the outline should be shifted right. Got it? Good. Poke two holes with the pin.

Step 4: Drill the Holes

OK, time for some tricky drilling. I wasn't quite sure how to clamp the halves, so I held them (tightly) while I drilled the holes on my drill press. A drill press is pretty much essential, by the way. I can't imagine doing this with a hand drill, without seriously damaging the figurine or my finger!

I recommend using a brad point drill bit. It has a sharp point in the center that is great for aligning the bit to the small pin-hole mark. It also makes a "flatter" hole which is more suitable for gluing magnets into.

So here we go: Hold the half tightly, keeping the cut edge parallel with the drill press table. Slowly drill the hole, a little at a time. Remember, the magnet is only about a millimeter thick! Test the depth of the hole by popping in a magnet. It should sit flush with the cut.

There may be some bits of plastic left behind, trim them off with a knife.

Step 5: Glue in the Magnets

The magnets need to be installed in a particular order, so that everything sticks together happily when the glue dries.

Mix up a small batch of epoxy.

Grab the front half of the animal, and glue one magnet in place with a small dab of epoxy. Direction doesn't matter.

Take the second magnet, and stick it (magnetically) onto the one that was just glued in. This is to determine polarity. Flip that magnet over, and glue it into the adjacent hole on the same half. This way, the half will have a "north" and "south" pole facing out.

Stick the third magnet onto the first one, again to determine polarity. Flip the magnet over, and glue it into the position opposite the first magnet, on the back half of the animal.

Stick the fourth magnet onto the third one, flip it over, and glue it in place. The back half of the animal should now have a "south" and "north" pole facing outward, that mate up with the north and south of the front half of the animal.

And that's it! Wait for the epoxy to fully dry, and the picture holders are ready to use!

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
When I saw these awesome " Animag Photo Holders" in the Photojojo store, I knew they would be a perfect DIY project. They're great for holding photos up to 4x6, as well as business cards, greeting cards, and other small pieces of paper.

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Introduction: Wild Animal Print Notebooks

This wild take on the homemade notebook project was inspired by Ann Lee's Tumblr Notebook project. You can see below the link to where I found the inspiration.
http://www.lifeannstyle.com/2014/07/diy-tumblr-inspired-notebooks/

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Step 1: Materials

What you need to make your own homemade notebooks are...

at least 2 packets of filler paper

animal printed cardstock

X-acto knife or scissors

PH Neutral adhesive or Mod Podge

a heavy book

sponge brush

binder clips

black craft paper

colorful labels

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This wild take on the homemade notebook project was inspired by Ann Lee's Tumblr Notebook project. You can see below the link to where I found the inspiration. http://www.lifeannstyle.com/2014/07/diy-tumblr-inspired-notebooks/ Share What you need to make your own homemade notebooks are...

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it's a note book

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These are a couple of journals/sketch books that I made a few months ago when I was obsessed with book-binding. The covers are quite nice, but only two of them...

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Perler bead pokeball!!!

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Introduction: Perler Bead Pokeball

Everyone loves Pokemon. This instructables will teach you how to make a Pokeball out of perler beads. It isn't perfectly spherical, but it's a nice little trinket to make and it takes about 2 or 3 hours to do so. This is my first instructables, and I'm very eager to make more, but unfortunately my creative skills are limited and I'm excited to learn more. Anyways, here's how to make your very own Perler bead Pokeball...

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Step 1: Materials

First off, you will need the following materials:

-White perler beads (approx. 270)
-Red perler beads (approx. 270)
-Black perler beads (approx. 70)
-round perler bead template, 15 beads across
-Iron
-hot glue gun
-wax paper

Step 3: Second Tier

starting one peg in, make another row of 3 beads in the correct colors, and iron out evenly. You may iron both sides if you please, but for this instructable I have only ironed 1 side of each piece for the remainder of this step-by step process. You are going to need to make 2 of these to make a 3-dimensional pokeball.

Step 6: Fifth Tier

Start 4 rows in, 2 rows deep, and make 2 of them. Iron.

Step 9: End

For this one, take a single black bead and a single white bead and iron them out. this time be sure to place plenty of pressure on the beads, as the white one needs to be more flat to look like a button. When you are done, You should have all the pieces ready to glue! The picture is a representation of all the pieces you should have by now.

Step 10: Gluing Process

Now, you're going to want to plug in your hot glue gun. Set up the pieces in order so you dont glue the wrong piece on first. Begin with the middle piece, and start working on one side of the Pokeball. I had my melted sides facing out, but you may have it the other way if you wish. Place a small strip of glue, about 1 bead wide, all the way around the inside border of each ring, and use the black color of each piece to line it up with the last, ensuring your pokeball will look proper. When you get to the end of the first half, Use the all-black circle with the single white bead, so it looks like the pokeball button.

When you finish the first half, start working on the second half, making sure not to burn yourself with hot glue(as i did) and place each appropriate ring on the other side of your half-finished pokeball. Once you have everything glued together, set it aside for a minute to dry, and go stretch your legs out. :)

Step 11: Finished!

So there you have it, you very own Pokeball! Its not round, but it is a fun little project to do if you have a little time, and are a fan of Pokemon. Overall this little project cost about $12, with the 3 bags of beads and the bead template. You will have plenty of beads left over after this project, so make something else! Thanks to all that read this, and thanks to a very special someone that gave me the ability to tap into my creative artistic side. You know who you are :)

Note: I am in no way affiliated with Pokemon, nintendo, game freak, etc. I am just a nerdy guy that loves him some pokemon :D

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Everyone loves Pokemon. This instructables will teach you how to make a Pokeball out of perler beads. It isn't perfectly spherical, but it's a nice little trinket to make and it takes about 2 or 3 hours to do so.

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I want to jump that.

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Introduction: Pond-Jumping Ramp

To beat the heat this summer, we decided to do something fun, creative and slightly extreme. Jumping the bike into our neighborhood pond seemed like a good candidate. In order to pull off this activity, we needed some sort of ramp to suit different riders, including those who want a higher jump, but also those who care for a lower ramp. Most ramps cannot do this, and are too small anyways. To solve this problem, we set out to design and build our own, adjustable ramp.

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Step 1: Supplies and Materials

For the ramp, we used standard lumber sizes (2x4's and 2x2's). We also used a large, sheet of plywood that was about an inch thick, give or take a few 64th's. The hardware that we used consists of 2-1/2" screws, 1-1/4" screws, a dozen miscellaneous screws, and two 3" clevis pins. We also used two sets of two hinges. The size of these doesn't really matter, as long as they aren't super flimsy. The miscellaneous screws that we mentioned are used to attach the hinges to the large plywood, so make sure they are short enough so they don't poke out on one side of the sheet.

HARDWARE
- 1.25" screws
- 2.5" screws
- Misc. fasteners (under one inch)
- 3" clevis pins
- 4 heavy-duty door hinges

LENGTHS
- 2x2's supporting main sheet of plywood: 78" (x2)
- Large sheet of plywood: 74" x 26" x ≈1"
- Long, base 2x4's: 8' (x2)
- Base end stop 2x4: 26"
- Support brace 2x4: 26"
- Support leg 2x4's: 27" (x2)
- Cross beams on base 2x4's: 19" (2x)
- Stops for height settings: 3.5" x 3.5" (6x)
- Small plywood sheet (for threshold): 29" x 14" x 1/2"
- Threshold 2x2's: 15" (x2)
- Threshold support 2x2: 20"

TOOLS
- Drill
- Drill bits
- Chop saw or hand saw
- Rotary tool (dremel)

Step 2: Construct the Base

The first step is to put together the base of your ramp. This provides the height settings and overall structural support. At the front of the base, you will want to install one of the two 19" cross beams. make sure it is flush with the end of the long board, as your hinges will mount to this. If you want, you can attach these with brackets, but we just screwed sideways into the wood. *NOTE: It is extremely important to pre-drill all holes so your lumber doesn't split.* At the other end, attach your end stop board (26"). Next, add the last cross beam somewhere in the middle of the base. It really doesn't matter, so just use judgement with that. Once you've done that, it's time to add the stops to your base. This part is a little tricky, as the measurements need to be somewhat accurate. The front of the first stop is 68.5" from the front of the base. The next stop should be 74" from the front. The last stop is 83" from the base. Once these are attached, your base is complete.

Step 3: Build the Top

The top half of the ramp is the easiest part to build. All you have to do to build it is attach your 76" long 2x2s to the sides of your 76" by 26" plywood. The main purpose of these boards is to keep the plywood from bending too much. We figure that we will also use the jump in the wintertime for snowboarding and skiing, so the 2x2s will also serve to keep snow on the ramp. Put at least four screws on each 2x2, again pre-drilling each hole. *NOTE: The 2.5" screws may be too long for the 2x2 and plywood, so you can use your rotary tool to grind off the tips sticking out of the bottom of the plywood.*

Step 4: Build and Attach Legs and Hinges

The legs are very simple to build as well. To build them, get your two 27" pieces and attach them together with your 26" peice. When putting the screws in, it is best to do it diagonally, as this will help prevent any twisting. At the top of the leg assembly, you will attach your pair of door hinges, on on each leg. Mount them on the side that is opposite of the 26" cross piece.

After you have attached the hinges to the leg assembly, you need to attach your two heavy-duty hinges to the bottom front end of the plywood. (The front end is the side that does not have extra 2x2 sticking off of it.)

Now that you have completed these steps, you can attach the leg assembly to the plywood. Make sure to attach it to the BOTTOM side of the plywood.

Finally, go ahead and line up the heavy-duty hinges on the frame. We find it easiest if you just lay the whole thing out to do this Make sure the height adjustment stops are at the opposite end that you are attaching the hinges to, and that the base is right-side up.

Step 5: Make the Threshold

The threshold of the ramp serves to make a smooth and seamless transition between the ground and the jump. This means that the pivot of the threshold has to somehow be independent of the rest of the jump, seeing as the height is adjustable. To do this, you will have to construct your last part.

First, attach your small, 15" 2x2's designated for the threshold attach these on the outside of the 2x2's on the jump. Now you can line up the holes for the clevis pins. Drill the holes one or two drill bit sizes larger than your pins so the threshold can rotate freely. If the clevis pins are too short, you may have to counter-bore the wood. (If you don't know what that is, then look up and instructable on how to do it.)

Once you have everything lined up, go ahead and attach the 1/2" piece of plywood to the 2x2's that are set up. The final step is to add the support bar to the bottom of the plywood.

All done! Stand back and be proud of your creation. You worked hard, and deserve to cool down...(see next step)

Step 6: Jump Into a Lake!

Time to have some fun! All you need now is a lake or neighborhood pond and a bike. Make sure the lake/pond is deep enough before jumping or you could hurt yourself. What we did is strap a life jacket to the bike so it doesn't just sink. Happy jumping!

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
To beat the heat this summer, we decided to do something fun, creative and slightly extreme. Jumping the bike into our neighborhood pond seemed like a good candidate. In order to pull off this activity, we needed some sort of ramp to suit different riders, including those who want a higher jump, but also those who care for a lower ramp.