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Fabric panels

Bilge

General

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Paint bottom

Check thru-hulls

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Charge each battery individually

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Add shelving to port hanging locker

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Add to both sides

20”

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Deck

Interior

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2026…

To do:

Clean bilge thoroughly

Remake ribs:

Cut

F1: 41” x 5 1/2” - bolt size: 3/4” (2)

2: 41” x 6” - bolt size: 1” (2)

3: 41” x 7” - bolt size: 1” (2)

4: 41” x 9” - bolt size: 1” (1)

A5: 41” x 9 1/2” - bolt size: 1” (1)

Wrap centers with fiberglass

Glass in

Paint bilge

Complete:

Removed ribs

Ground bilge smooth

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Install vent covers. Create box for head

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Lube roller furling
Tune mast
Lube main sail track

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Newportvessel.com

Railblaza

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https://www.mattressinsider.com/terms-conditions.html

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#2 repair

Need:
#3 headsail (120%)
Main sail

Staysail - complete 2023
Cape Dory sail - complete 2023

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Sailing downwind under spinnaker needn't be daunting if you bear in mind Dan Bower's advice in part 5 of our ocean cruising series

They say gentlemen don't sail to windward. This is very true when looking to cross oceans the right way, with the tradewinds. Ocean crossing should be a downwind experience and it is important to set up the boat correctly for a comfortable and fast passage.

Having the right combination of sails that are easily deployable, changeable and reefable with your chosen crew numbers is something that needs serious thought before you put to sea. This is complicated because it is often difficult to simulate ocean conditions near your home cruising port.

Rig a preventer

One of the main considerations for downwind sailing is what happens when you gybe unintentionally. It really is a matter of when; it's rare that we've done an ocean crossing when it hasn't happened at least once - the result of an autopilot glitch, a tired crewmember or just an unexpected wave or windshift from a squall.

As long as the boom is properly prevented and the course is quickly corrected, it doesn't need to be a drama, yet as you walk the docks after the ARC, for instance, it is unusual not to see a couple of broken booms because of poorly rigged preventers.

There are two main types of preventer, a 'boom brake' system and a fixed line. The boom brake is a friction system that does not fix the boom rigidly, but slows down the rate that it can come across, taking all the power or 'punch' out of the gybe. It also has the advantage that the sail doesn't remain backed, which can sometimes make coming back onto course difficult.
See our test of boom brakes and preventers here.
The other more widely used solution is a gybe preventer line. The main points for this are that it should be attached to the outboard end of the boom - not halfway down - that it should be releasable and adjusted from the cockpit, and preferably can be attached without the boom being centred.

On Skyelark we keep a line permanently rigged; this is attached to the end of the boom and is long enough to reach forward to the kicker attachment. Whenever the preventer needs to be rigged, it can always be reached. We then run a control line down each side. This starts in the cockpit and goes through a stand-up block on the foredeck and clips with a snapshackle to our permanent preventer.

We have two control lines, which can be used either for the pole down or preventer as both are often used at the same time. If you don't have stand-up blocks, or an attachment for a snatch block, then passing the line through a bow cleat can suffice. Care should be given to line leads to minimise chafe.

Of course, prevention is better than cure, so when under autopilot we always use the windvane mode when sailing downwind and set it to a conservative angle.

Another useful aid is to fly a staysail when running; this can help (a little) with boat speed, but is also an excellent early warning for gybing, particularly for new or inexperienced helmsmen. A backing staysail will do no damage to itself or the rigging, but it is a great indicator of being dead downwind, particularly if the headsail is poled-out or a spinnaker is flown.

Choosing your spinnaker set-up

Consider the times and wind speeds that the spinnaker is going to be flown when cruising. The reality for us is that it's fairly rare, and on our last five ARC crossings I could count the days on two hands. If we have in excess of 20 knots of wind, which is typical in the Atlantic trades, then we go just as well under full white sails, so for us it's really a light wind sail.

However, our white sails are maximised for downwind performance, we have straight spreaders and use a 130 per cent genoa. On rigs with heavily swept spreaders and non-overlapping sails, the spinnaker will become more important.

On the ocean swell an underpowered boat is a pretty unpleasant place to be; the rolling motion backs the sails alternately, and the noise and rig punishment is gut wrenching. For those moments the spinnaker comes into its own - not just for boat speed, but for stability.

Skyelark carries three spinnakers: two A sails - a runner and a reacher - and a conventional symmetrical kite. The running sail is fantastic in flat water, but it moves around too much in a swell, so should be discounted as an ocean option.

The reacher is regularly used between 90° and 120° in lightish breezes when our white sails are underpowered, but the symmetrical spinnaker is definitely the choice for ocean crossing.

Trying to go downwind with an A sail is always a compromise between speed and wind angle, and often as not on a heavy cruising boat the extra distance sailed doesn't pay off. As you may have deduced already if you're following this series, we go for conservative when it comes to sailing oceans, so we use a heavyweight cloth despite the light winds, so that it can still be flown if caught by a surprise squall.

Spinnaker drop

Once the kite is up it's important to know how to get it down quickly and safely, and to brief the crew accordingly so each person knows what to do. On Skyelark we are always rigged ready for the drop and have a takedown sheet prepared, and the halyard flaked and ready to go.

We favour a letterbox drop at sea, but we usually have big crews. Socks/snuffers can be useful for smaller crews, but consider how to drop the sail if the snuffer gets stuck, which only seems to happen when you're in a hurry and the wind is rising!

Exotic spinnakers deserve a mention. A Parasailor is the one of choice for many short-handed crews; its horizontal 'wing' is designed to make the sail more stable, to provide lift to the bow and to depower it in the event of a squall. I've heard it claimed to be safe for up to 40 knots - when I'd be happy with half a headsail. It's versatile, too, and can be flown with or without a pole, and even on its own without the mainsail.

It is heavily promoted to ARC crews, which may explain its popularity. In our opinion it 'solves' a problem that doesn't exist and the thought of having a spinnaker up without a mainsail to drop it behind on a short-handed boat is unnerving.

What if it all goes wrong? Well, I guess you could cut it free and kiss goodbye to £15,000.

Getting a wrap

One of the biggest fears when flying spinnakers is the dreaded wrap - when it goes a bit wrong and gets itself caught around the forestay. This can be a nightmare at sea and in extreme cases can require a trip aloft to sort out the problem. Happily, there is a solution in the form of a wrap net or semi-unfurled headsail.

A wrap net is sail-shaped and usually made of strips of webbing. It's hoisted in the foretriangle and prevents the spinnaker from crossing inside the forestay and wrapping. On a cruising boat it is possible to achieve the same result with a quarter-unfurled headsail sheeted fairly tight. This doesn't really affect the air flow to the spinnaker and can also serve as a gybe guide.

Chafe is the enemy

As always, consideration needs to be given to chafe, so make sure that sheet leads are clean - snatch blocks or barber-haulers can be useful for this. What can be fine for the occasional downwind round the cans doesn't always stand up to days at sea.

Deck inspections and chafe checks should be a daily occurrence, and particular care should be given to rigging terminals, gooseneck and kicker fixings. We move our spinnaker halyard a little each day to minimise chafe and check the condition of the halyard each time it is dropped.

You can get protective, sacrificial sheaths to go over the lines (like an extra braid coating). We use these on our guys and also 'donuts', Nylon disks that prevent knots and splices getting caught in the pole jaws.

Do's and don'ts

√ Do watch out for all potential chafe points on halyards and lines.

√ Do use a boom preventer.

√ If in doubt, do drop the kite sooner rather than later.

√ Do keep upwind of the pole while manoeuvring it around the deck.

√ Do check for chafe, particularly spinnaker lines and pole up.

√ Do have a plan B if your snuffer gets stuck at an inappropriate moment.

√ Do pad your spreaders to protect the mainsail.

x Don't fly the spinnaker if there are squalls around, particularly at night.

x Don't stand underneath the pole at any time.

x Don't sail overcanvassed when the wind is rising.

Top tips

Crew briefing is very important. Make sure everyone is clear about their roles during spinnaker work.

The spinnaker halyard should always be flaked ready to run as soon as the kite is up.

If you see a small tear or rip in the spinnaker cloth, fix it immediately before it becomes a more serious problem.

When dropping a spinnaker, head downwind as much as you can without gybing. The spinnaker will get blanketed behind the mainsail and will be easier to gather in.

Woolling the spinnaker can make hoisting easier and safer, particularly if it's windy or if you're on a larger yacht.

Check all lines are led and attached to the spinnaker correctly before hoisting it. It's much easier to sort this out before the sail comes out of the bag!

Dan and Em Bower

Dan and Em Bower, both in their thirties, are lifelong sailors. Six years ago they bought Skyelark of London, a Skye 51 by American designer Rob Ladd, built in Taiwan in 1986, and have been sailing and chartering her ever since, making some 12 transatlantic crossings and covering around 60,000 miles.

There are places where you simply can't avoid this, so Dan Bower has some tips
See videos for all the parts here
12-part series in association with Pantaenius

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Bluewater Sailing Techniques Part 5: downwind with spinnaker

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Sailing downwind under spinnaker needn't be daunting if you bear in mind Dan Bower's advice in part 5 of our ocean cruising series They say gentlemen don't sail to windward. This is very true when looking to cross oceans the right way, with the tradewinds.

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Garboard drain
Tightened bolts
G-flex area of joint that didn’t get g-flex last year
Barrier coat on repaired areas
3 coats bottom paint
New anodes
Need to repair bow v above water line

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Beta 50
Volvo Penta D2 50
Yanmar 4JH45
Vetus M4.45
Sole Diesel MINI 55
Nanni N4.50
Lombardini KDI2504M

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https://assets.lci1.com/tm-www/pdf/buoys/surmoor.pdf?_ga=2.257319755.1168489900.1659871447-72984254.1659871447&_gl=1*1927vq0*_ga*NzI5ODQyNTQuMTY1OTg3MTQ0Nw..*_ga_RZPZDDTJS6*MTY1OTg3MTQ1My4xLjEuMTY1OTg3MzExNS4w

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Beacon batteries (2 D)
EPIRB battery
Fire extinguisher check
Replace canisters in life jackets

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Annual:
Anodes
Grease prop shaft bearing
Grease rudder

Bi-annually on odd years:
Grease prop

10-15 years:
Cutlass bearing - changed in 2023

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Ordered 2022

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To do:

Still need starboard middle and aft

Complete:

Port side plates completed prior to launch 2022.

Starboard forward in 2024

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Fuel filter 86395 carquest or WIX 33395. Fram 3726.

Belts for westerbeke w58

Oil Filter NAPA 1307

Racor filter R12s

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Add drawer maybe and/or cover

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ICECO VL65 68 Quart Dual Zone Portable Refrigerator with SECOP Compressor, 65 Liters Deep Freezer, DC 12/24V, AC 110-240V, 0℉ to 50℉, Home & Car Use (without Insulate Cover)

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Buy ICECO VL65 68 Quart Dual Zone Portable Refrigerator with SECOP Compressor, 65 Liters Deep Freezer, DC 12/24V, AC 110-240V, 0℉ to 50℉, Home & Car Use (without Insulate Cover): Compact Refrigerators - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Ordered may 2022

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Mast size 10” x 6 3/8”

Mast box 14”x6.5”

Have new sheaves need boxes removed and welded - install in 2023
Check steaming light strength
Install cell booster

Main halyard - done
Steaming/deck light - done
Weather station - have this - move to hardtop
Antennae cable - done
Cell booster - cable run, need adapters and mount
Guard for shiv - needs to be welded
Spreader boots - complete
Lift/platform

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Should we move the head forward? What would that look like?

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2021:
Obtained FRC

2022:
Reregistered vessels with state- due again in 2025- MC-4844-UH

Purchase EPIRB and obtained beacon registration:
Beacon ID: 2DCCA AE4F2 FFBFF
Registration expiration: May 18, 2024
Renew online

FCC Registration:
FRN: 0029115599
Call sign: WDM9934
File Number: 0010054352
MMSI: 368257280
Expire: 5/19/2032
Renew online

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What is it? DTOPS, the Decal and Transponder Online Procurement System, lets you place orders and pay online for annual user fees and single crossing fees associated with crossing the borders into the United States.

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Completed June 2022

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MaxProp Easy Sailboat Propeller 3B-18" - Self Feathering

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Max-Prop 3 blade 18"

Received in exchange for outboard and installed prior to launch 2022

Starting setting 18

(note: engine should settle wide open at 3000rpms. Adjust engine to 3300 rpm’s)

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85mm Hub fits shafts 3/4" to 1 1/8" and up to 47hp max.

90mm Hub fits shafts 3/4" to 1 1/4" and up to 60hp max.

99mm Hub fits shafts 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" and up to 90hp max.

Vessel data required for order. Click here to submit information.

The Max-Prop Easy is a true step forward in Max-Prop design. The ease of installation and simple pitch adjustment make this model a great choice for a wide range of boats. The three blade design provides smooth and efficient power.

The Easy ships fully assembled, making installation similar to a fixed propeller, basically slide it onto the shaft, nut it in place and the propeller is ready to go.

As with all Max-Prop's the Easy pitch is adjustable. With the Easy the pitch is adjustable in 2 degree increments, providing the ability to fine tune the loading of the engine. In addition, the pitch can be set for different levels in forward and reverse, giving you the fine control we've been missing in reverse. Moreover, pitch adjustment can be done in the water as the propeller does not need to be disassembled to change the pitch.

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MaxProp Easy Sailboat Propeller 3B-18" - Self Feathering

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85mm Hub fits shafts 3/4" to 1 1/8" and up to 47hp max. 90mm Hub fits shafts 3/4" to 1 1/4" and up to 60hp max. 99mm Hub fits shafts 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" and up to 90hp max. Vessel data required for order. Click here to submit information.

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Shade captain station, provide solar array, dinghy davits, engine mount, grill mount, flag mount, two lights, speakers

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2022:
Removed port side extra drain and fuel fill - glassed in
Repaired soft spot port side dock access area

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New Life for Old Decks: A fresh coat of deck paint on your vintage classic-plastic cruiser will make the old gal sparkle and shine.

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Fit A Boat Water Heater and Get Hot Water For Free!

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007G2IR6O?pf_rd_r=940ZYPPMS7YKTJ8VXJPG&pf_rd_p=8fe9b1d0-f378-4356-8bb8-cada7525eadd&pd_rd_r=20b4804e-154c-4785-9706-286e7f98e5b8&pd_rd_w=e8hUp&pd_rd_wg=icLEB&ref_=pd_gw_unk

https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B01MVA6GCC/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/133-7839148-2835504?pd_rd_w=Pu4SE&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=72N1PJYE4MP5XBGBGM97&pd_rd_r=428e0c08-b31a-4dcc-89c1-7f9c9a990a18&pd_rd_wg=kEftW&pd_rd_i=B01MVA6GCC&psc=1

https://www.custommarineproducts.com/solar-water-heating-system-for-boats.html

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A boat water heater can usually be retro-fitted without too much difficulty, as long as your boat has a freshwater cooled engine. This type of marine engine, unlike a raw seawater cooled engine, has a separate closed system with its own header tank, which is then cooled by a freshwater/seawater heat exchanger.
The other requirement is for a pressurised domestic water system. A manually pumped system, laudable though it is, just won't do - but it's usually a straight forward affair to convert it to a pressurised system.

On a boat thus equipped, you can get that rare commodity; something for nothing - and you should take advantage of it.

Any boat that uses its engine fairly regularly produces hot water as a by-product of the combustion process, and it's free. Once you've shelled out for the equipment that is - which in this case is a boat water heater known as a marine calorifier.

This device is effectively an insulated heat exchanger, which plumbed into the engine cooling water system will transfer heat from the engine into the domestic water supply.

A typical hot and cold domestic water installation is shown in the illustration below.

How a Boat Water Heater System Works

This system incorporates both a pump and an accumulator. Most water pressure pumps maintain steady pressure by cycling on and off, producing a pulsed delivery.

The accumulator tank, containing water and air - usually but not always separated by a diaphragm - absorbs this pulsation and provides steady flow. Some pump manufacturers now produce microprocessor-controlled variable-speed pumps which eliminate cycling and make the accumulator tank redundant.

The mixer valve operates thermostatically, introducing a metered amount of cold water into the outlet flow, thus maintaining regulated temperature and conserving hot water.

The pipework from the engine should be as short as possible to minimise heat loss, and should be installed lower than the level of the engines header tank.

Calorifiers are well insulated and will continue to provide warm water for an hour or two after the engine has been turned off, but if you haven't run the engine for a much longer period, turning on the hot tap won't produce the desired result.

Immersion-Type Water Heaters

Electric immersion heaters, much like the larger versions we're accustomed to at home, require AC power, so unless you've got a generator aboard their use is restricted to when you're alongside and hooked-up to an onshore supply.

Immersion heaters are often combined with a calorifier in a single unit.

The stainless steel Isotherm units shown here are the immersion/calorifier type and are equipped with a thermostat.

In immersion heater mode, they draw around 6.5A at 120V.

Hot Water from the Sun!

Intended for campers, but perfect for sailors cruising in warm, sunny climes.

Cheap and effective - every cruising sailor should have a couple of these on board!

Gas Water Heaters

Bulkhead mounted gas water heaters like the one shown here are no longer popular on sailboats, many skippers believing that they're just too plain dangerous.

If you do decide to invest in one of these however, make absolutely sure that it has an automatic low gas pressure cut-off switch and a flame failure device fitted, and it's properly serviced and regularly maintained.

I used to have one on a previous boat - this one in fact, on my Nicholson 32 'Jalingo' and lived to tell the tale.

But would I have another? No, definitely not.

In fact I'm not even going to tempt you with an example.

My advice? Don't touch them, and if you've got one - get rid of it!

Other Plumbed-In Systems you may want to take a look at...

The top opening boat fridge is reputed to be more efficient than the front opening type, but that may not be the case - and here, amongst other boat refrigeration considerations, is why

Good quality gas boat cookers go a long way towards protecting the cook from the very real risks of cooking at sea. Here are the essential safety features you should look for

A properly thought-out boat galley is a key component of an offshore cruising boat. So where should it be located, and what's the best arrangement for the individual galley components?

1. Aug 05, 21 09:58 AM
Follow these simple rules to list your boat for sale and give yourself the best possible chance of making an early sale.

2. Aug 02, 21 04:33 AM
Identify one of these mystery sailboats and claim your free sailing eBook

3. Aug 02, 21 02:58 AM
Here's where people with sailing equipment for sale advertise their stuff entirely free of charge. If you're looking for used sailing gear or other used boating accessories, here's where to find it!

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Fit A Boat Water Heater and Get Hot Water For Free!

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A boat water heater can usually be retro-fitted without too much difficulty, as long as your boat has a freshwater cooled engine. This type of marine engine, unlike a raw seawater cooled engine, has a separate closed system with its own header tank, which is then cooled by a freshwater/seawater heat exchanger.

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Need measurement for under counter storage

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Motor 12/2022 - didn't work. Tested - thunderstruck said all is good. The motor still didn't work.

Purchased and installed new motor spring of 2024
Need to:
Evaluate battery system

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2022:
Thorough cleaning

Roller furling sheet - need this
Jib sheet - 60’ x 7/16”

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Firm windows, careful of boom rub, no supports behind companion way wall

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Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies