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TOOK OVER THE QUEEN'S SILVER JUBILEE

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https://www.newyorker.com/culture/on-and-off-the-avenue/how-betsey-johnson-built-a-fashion-empire-and-lost-her-name

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'Godmother of punk'
Iconic style icon of the 70s - she performed at New York punk venue CGBG IN 1977.

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When Patti Smith released Horses in 1975, it shattered perceptions of how women in music should look and dress. Her close friend and collaborator, photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, shot the now iconic sleeve image one afternoon in an apartment on Fifth Avenue. The record inside pushed the boundaries of rock'n'roll poetry like never before, becoming one of the defining albums of New York punk.

Patti moved to New York in 1967, aged 20, as documented in her National Book Award-winning memoir Just Kids. "I wore my dungarees, black turtleneck and old grey raincoat," she writes. "No one expected me. Everything awaited me." Patti spent the best part of the next decade hungry and broke, trying to make it as an artist in the city. It wasn't until she started doing poetry readings, accompanied by an electric guitar, that she considered breaking into music. Her style was informed by poets and rock icons. In 1970, she cut her hair to look like Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards and she looked to French writers Charles Baudelaire and Jean Genet for style inspiration. Her core look today, consisting of white shirts, black ties and greatcoats, has hardly changed since the 70s - only now her coat is less likely to be thrifted and more likely to be by Comme des Garçons.

Like her fame, Patti's style icon status is reluctant, but the singer, poet and artist has inspired fashion designers from Ann Demeulemeester to Charles Jeffrey. Her work, which includes 11 studio albums, four memoirs and countless poetry books, has also influenced Kim Gordon, Florence Welch and Courtney Love. Here, we pay tribute to the influence, in style and art, of punk's poet laureate.

Horses album cover, 1975
Patti Smith's debut is considered one of the greatest album covers of all time. The striking image was shot by her friend and collaborator, the photographer Robert Mapplethorpe. Patti styled herself, wanting to embody male icons Frank Sinatra and French writer Jean Genet. It was an unwritten rule in the 70s that female singers were supposed to look pretty and feminine. Instead, she wore a thrifted man's white shirt with no makeup and unruly hair. Patti's record company hated the image. They wanted to change her hair into a bouffant and airbrush out the hair on her upper lip, but she refused. Luckily, the singer had signed a deal that gave her complete artistic control of her albums. Otherwise it might not have become the iconic, effortlessly stylish album cover we know today.

With Robert Mapplethorpe in Coney Island, September 1969
Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe's friendship is immortalised in countless black and white photos from the early years they spent together as struggling artists in New York City, as well as Patti's cult memoir Just Kids. The pair are snapped here in Coney Island, looking like wayward hippies spat out at the tail end of the 60s, in rolled up trousers and a tie front white shirt. Robert wears a string vest, neck scarf and bootcut jeans. When their apartment was burgled in 1971, the outfit Patti is wearing in this photo was stolen along with one of Robert's cameras.

Amsterdam, 1976
For a photoshoot in Amsterdam in 1976 Patti Smith sports a US Air Force shirt, lending the photos a touch of irony given the singer's strong anti-military, anti-nationalist views. Her early years in New York were set against the backdrop of the war in Vietnam. She used to sit before Picasso's Guernica in the Met "spending long hours considering the fallen horse and the eye of the bulb shining over the sad spoils of war." In 2004, the singer was so incensed by the Iraq war that she released anti-war record Trampin'. She would speak out against George Bush at her live shows and join anti-war demonstrations wherever she could, in America and Europe.

In Lynn Goldsmith's apartment, New York, 1978
Shot by photographer Lynn Goldsmith in trademark all black, this is one of the few images where Patti Smith's style matches the punk label given to her music. Recalling the first time she photographed Patti, Lynn says "she came to my apartment with her band. A friend of mine had left about fifteen bottles of Dom Perignon in my kitchen for safekeeping. We drank most of it, made some pictures, and talked about spiritual enlightenment."

Performing at CBGB in New York, 1977
In January 1977, while on tour for her second album Radio Ethiopia, Patti Smith danced off a high stage and fell 15 feet into a concrete orchestra pit, breaking her neck. Not to be deterred, she kept performing during her recovery, wearing a neckbrace -- including here, at iconic New York punk venue CBGB, where she paired it with leather pants, obviously. While Patti was initially bedbound, she wrote a collection of poems titled 'Babel.' The title poem's closing lines are "tic/toc tic/toc tic/toc / fuck the clock!"

Walking Ann Demeulemeester, AW06
In the 1980s, Patti Smith left New York for suburban Detroit to raise her children away from the spotlight. One day she received a gift of three white shirts in the post. That was the start of her friendship with Antwerp Six designer Ann Demeulemeester, who she now describes as her "sister." Patti has been wearing Ann's brand ever since those three white shirts and in 2006 she even made a runway appearance, dressed in her signature all black outfit, accessorised with a bowler hat and a clarinet.

Pirelli Calendar, 2016
In 2016, Patti Smith was shot by Annie Leibovitz for the Pirelli Calendar alongside Yoko Ono, Serena Williams and Tavi Gevinson. Patti's style has hardly altered throughout her decade-spanning career and it has found even more consistency now that she's in her 70s. Her now white hair looks striking against her colour palette of blacks, whites and greys. Her love of literary allusions still hold a strong influence and she often integrates waistcoats and bowler hats into her outfits. Here she wears her usual uniform - white shirt, waistcoat and black combat boots.

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When Patti Smith released Horses in 1975, it shattered perceptions of how women in music should look and dress. Her close friend and collaborator, photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, shot the now iconic sleeve image one afternoon in an apartment on Fifth Avenue.

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Punk fashion origin traced back to the King's Road and her 'Sex' boutique - she developed the aesthetic of the era (ripped tops, provocative images)
She (and JEAN PAUL GAULTHIER) pulled punk fashion from the streets and translated this sense of oppression and frustration to the runways.

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RUSSIAN FEMINIST PUNK BAND
Founded in 2011

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Cultural expression of angst, emotion - response to outdated, mainstream norms

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Cultural expression of angst, emotion - response to outdated, mainstream norms

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Found an audience in the marginalised and the misunderstood.
Tired of the commercialism in the world

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Music genre began in USA with the 'garage rock' subculture in NYC (NYC DOLLS, RAMONES) - NEW YORK ART SCENE

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Music genre began in USA with the 'garage rock' subculture in NYC (NYC DOLLS, RAMONES) - NEW YORK ART SCENE

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THEN MOVED TO LONDON AND TRANSFORMED THE STREETS - HELPED BY VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AS WELL AS MANCHESTER CLUBS.

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Punk design changed the way we look - evolution in high street fashion, hair, makeup, media, politics.

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Punk design changed the way we look - evolution in high street fashion, hair, makeup, media, politics.

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Long lasting impact- people who still adopt the punk style today - altho less people dress that way, the spirit of punk still lives on.

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Long lasting impact- people who still adopt the punk style today - altho less people dress that way, the spirit of punk still lives on.

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Punk mindset of destruction.

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Punk clothing began as a reaction against CAPITALISM, CONFORMITY and the 'ESTABLISHMENT'

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Punk clothing began as a reaction against CAPITALISM, CONFORMITY and the 'ESTABLISHMENT'

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Rebelled against hippie and disco movements.

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MOHAWK
BRIGHTLY COLOURED SPIKES (70S)

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BRIGHT COLOURS
DARK LINES
DARING SHADES

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If something goes against the status quo and stands for something real - then it is punk.

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If something goes against the status quo and stands for something real - then it is punk.

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No single definition - style changes to suit the needs of anyone who embraces it.

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No single definition - style changes to suit the needs of anyone who embraces it.

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Punk is not a commercial concept - cant just buy the right clothes, need to adopt the mentality. 

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Punk is not a commercial concept - cant just buy the right clothes, need to adopt the mentality. 

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70s punk fashion was always political - anger, had to do something drastic to be heard - embracing the extreme to represent something raw and real.

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70s punk fashion was always political - anger, had to do something drastic to be heard - embracing the extreme to represent something raw and real.

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Conflict/overwhelming rise against police.
Leaders of commercial strikes going to prison.
Teens starting street wars.
Woman battling for equal rights.
Working class struggled to have voices heard.

Wasnt just angry teens tho - was also ethnic minorities, political radicals - the oppressed and outsiders of society.

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DECLARED THE GOVERNER TO BE A FACIST PIG

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Little skill involved just a youthful, natural reaction against older gens that were considered outdated and oppressive.
Music consisted of basic chords and short arrangements in combination with politically charged lyrics - an outlet for the underpaid and unemployed.

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As punk evolved it split into different sub-genres inspired by the political landscapes of the day.

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As punk evolved it split into different sub-genres inspired by the political landscapes of the day.

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E.G. less aggressive punks embraced pop punk genre to reach a wider audience - 90s groups like Green Day, My Chemical Romance, All Time Low (emo)
90S-  Rage against the machine tried to counter act pop punk trend, working hard to spread anti-communist/progressive ideas

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ETHOS OF A PUNK BAND IS FREEDOM AND POWER

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ETHOS OF A PUNK BAND IS FREEDOM AND POWER

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In the 60s super groups like The Beatles, The Rolling Stones overshadowed smaller groups who couldn't be heard, but unemployment in the 70s meant teens had more time and more to say.

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In the 60s super groups like The Beatles, The Rolling Stones overshadowed smaller groups who couldn't be heard, but unemployment in the 70s meant teens had more time and more to say.

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The music/style was an outlet and way to express their dissatisfaction with the world and the how they were unemployed/underpaid.

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DOWNLOAD FEST

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New groups have taken inspo from the origins of punk, but adapt it in new and exciting ways - transforming the ways we look at punk culture today.

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New groups have taken inspo from the origins of punk, but adapt it in new and exciting ways - transforming the ways we look at punk culture today.

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Punk culture not just changed the way we look and live but also the way we interact with brands from a consumer perspective.
Customers today are more 'punk' in the way they interact with companies (we no longer believe in doing what we're told just coz an advert says so)

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London based fashion designer known for her cultural references and slogans.

Talking about her famous 1970 slogan:
"I was looking through a book of these very scruffy, upper-class boys, a bit Keith Richards and David Bowie wearing girls’ undersized jackets, and in the corner was a date: 1970/1. I used to do lots of drawing and blowing up on a photocopier because I love the rawness of how it looks. It had a feeling of early Patti Smith, New York punk rock, this sort of gritty feeling."

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Fashion keeps referencing the punk movement to this day

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Fashion keeps referencing the punk movement to this day

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Fall/winter runways 2020 had fishnets, tartan skirts, biker jackets and leather (easily recognisable symbols of punk)
Recycled trends of 70s subculture easily recognised by iconic symbols - safety pin adornments, ripped clothing, leather

Brands putting obvious punk stamp on their clothing to link themselves to what the movement stood for.

Punk was a Met Gala theme in 2013 - shows it has an important place in punk history

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BRANDS WHO RECENTLY WERE INSPIRED BY PUNK

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BRANDS WHO RECENTLY WERE INSPIRED BY PUNK

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MONSE - models in tartan plaid, fishnets, chunky boots, shredded denim.
DRIES VAN NOTEN - mismatched plaid, studded leather, unnatural hair colour.
COACH - not just the clothes but the presentation - punk icon Debbie Harry performing wearing Basquiat design jumper (punk artist)

Other brands play w the 70s punk notion of anti-conformity, sexuality and political activism in a more modern approach - instead of using literal references, designers are doing what punk fashion was trying to do ages ago - PUSH BOUNDARIES IN ORDER TO CHALLENGE THE STAUS QUO.

E.G.
COLLINA STRADA - Hilary Taymour encouraged people to think about the environment with collection 'Garden Ho'

MATTY BOVAN - "I think its important to challenge the silhouette of the body." he told Vogue about his Fall 2020 collection - he used curtain rods that shot out from body creating new shapes with draped fabric.

BALENCIAGA - Demna Gvasalia put apolcayptic spin on show by experimenting w gender norms in clothing.

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THE 2020 VERSION OF PUNK (LIKE OTHER DECADES) IS AN AESTHETIC REBELLION AGAINST WHAT FASHION SHOULD LOOK LIKE IN THE CONTEXT OF WHATS GOING ON IN THE WORLD - reiterates that fashion is influenced by politics, government, ethical issues etc

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THE 2020 VERSION OF PUNK (LIKE OTHER DECADES) IS AN AESTHETIC REBELLION AGAINST WHAT FASHION SHOULD LOOK LIKE IN THE CONTEXT OF WHATS GOING ON IN THE WORLD - reiterates that fashion is influenced by politics, government, ethical issues etc

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Originated in GB and US as a reaction by youths in the 70s to things out of their control (govt, politics, economy etc) esp after post WW2, minorities fighting for their rights.

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Originated in GB and US as a reaction by youths in the 70s to things out of their control (govt, politics, economy etc) esp after post WW2, minorities fighting for their rights.

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GB - unemployment, changing moral standards, rising poverty levels
USA - rebellion against Vietnam War, a new conservative movement (The New Right)

Influenced by new bands emerging, young people dressed to express their disillusionment and rebellion.

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Young people challenged fashion norms by wearing slogan tees, torn and safety pinned clothing, crazy hair and makeup - had a DIY appearance, made out of necessity, pieced together from second hand shops.

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Young people challenged fashion norms by wearing slogan tees, torn and safety pinned clothing, crazy hair and makeup - had a DIY appearance, made out of necessity, pieced together from second hand shops.

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SPRING 2019:
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe

FALL 2017:
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe

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ANNA SUI '94 PUNK COLLECTION INSPIRATION

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ANNA SUI '94 PUNK COLLECTION INSPIRATION

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(THE WORLD OF ANNA SUI BOOK)

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70S IT-GIRL AND STYLE ICON
(INSPIRED ANNA SUI AND BELLA FREUD)