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Report - John Lobb Paris’ bespoke workshop - Shoegazing.com

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Report - John Lobb Paris’ bespoke workshop - Shoegazing.com

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The bespoke workshop of John Lobb Paris is a legendary place for shoe aficionados, known to be one of the largest and most well-trimmed shoemaking

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BBC Secrets of the Museum - V&A "bags inside out" 

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BBC Secrets of the Museum - V&A "bags inside out" 

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series 2: 5. bags inside out/churchill despatch box

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Secrets of the Museum - Series 2: 5. Bags Inside Out/Churchill Despatch Box

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V&A experts move a 350-year-old doll's house and repair Winston Churchill's red box.

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Drawing on the conservation status system used by the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List and the Rare Breeds Survival Trust Watchlist, the HCA uses a system of four categories of risk to assess the viability of heritage crafts. A heritage craft is considered to be viable if there are sufficient craftspeople to transmit the craft skills to the next generation.

Shortcut to categories: Extinct | Critically Endangered | Endangered |
Not on the Red List: Currently viable

Extinct in the UK

Crafts classified as 'extirpated' or 'locally extinct' are those which are no longer practised in the UK. For the purposes of this research, this category only includes crafts which have become extinct in the past generation.

Critically endangered

Crafts classified as 'critically endangered' are those at serious risk of no longer being practised in the UK. They may include crafts with a shrinking base of craftspeople, crafts with limited training opportunities, crafts with low financial viability, or crafts where there is no mechanism to pass on the skills and knowledge.

Endangered

Crafts classified as 'endangered' are those which currently have sufficient craftspeople to transmit the craft skills to the next generation, but for which there are serious concerns about their ongoing viability. This may include crafts with a shrinking market share, an ageing demographic or crafts with a declining number of practitioners.

Currently viable

Crafts classified as 'currently viable' are those which are in a healthy state and have sufficient craftspeople to transmit the craft skills to the next generation. They may include crafts with a large market share, widely popular crafts, or crafts with a strong local presence. NB. A classification of 'currently viable' does not mean that the craft is risk-free or without issues affecting its future sustainability/viability.
Click here to see the list of currently viable crafts

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The advocacy body for traditional heritage crafts

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In the early 14th century, the Duke of Northumberland would abuse tenants of his farms, who were late paying, by torturing their wives.

During this time, he invented a number of tools to help him enforce his punishment for late payment, with one of those tools being commonly known as the bastard file.

The Duke's reputation spread far and wide, it even reached London and the king's ear. Henry V had just returned from his jaunt in France and fresh from his celebrated battle of Agincourt and wanted to re-exert his influence over the dukes and earls in court.

He called for the Duke of Northumberland, ridiculed him in front of his peers and used the now commonly known bastard file to remove the tip of the Duke's nose.

A knight from medieval England, where the name bastard file originates. Another theory is that files earned this nickname in medieval England (the term 'American pattern' was only given to files many years later).

In heraldry, coats of arms belonging to people born outside of wedlock (also known as bastards) bore a device known as the 'barre sinister', a diagonal stripe that ran from the top right of the crest to the bottom left. This is the same direction that the teeth of a single cut file run in.

A knight being ridiculed by spectators at a joust due to his illegitimate birth - little do they know that a file will be named after him! Therefore, it seems most likely that this was a humorous nickname that has stuck, and remains in use today as a technical term!

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How did bastard files get their name? - Wonkee Donkee Tools

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In the early 14th century, the Duke of Northumberland would abuse tenants of his farms, who were late paying, by torturing their wives. During this time, he invented a number of tools to help him enforce his punishment for late payment, with one of those tools being commonly known as the bastard file.

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Almost every human being owns a pair in one or another execution. On the one hand this universal object leads a visitor of SONS through all ethnic cultures and peoples, from the first foot-covered footsteps of humans till today. On the other hand through the world of modern art, highlighted out of a surprising perspective.

Thanks to Dirk Vanderschueren, the museum's owner, these two unique collections have found a home in a building of amazing architecture in beautiful surroundings. The whole results in a place of direct confrontation, a happening with international allure.

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Almost every human being owns a pair in one or another execution. On the one hand this universal object leads a visitor of SONS through all ethnic cultures and peoples, from the first foot-covered footsteps of humans till today. On the other hand through the world of modern art, highlighted out of a surprising perspective.

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Timeline  history of shoes

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BOOT AND SHOE APPRENTICESHIP GIVES STUDENTS A 'FOOT IN THE DOOR' OF ICONIC INDUSTRY

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27 Jan 2021

A college course which has proved a "stepping-stone to stardom" for performers in some of the West End's biggest shows...

18 Jan 2021

Fancy netting a six-figure salary by playing FIFA on your Xbox? Could your Call of Duty skills help you rake...

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Northampton College - Full and part time courses | Adult Courses | HE | Apprenticeships

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27 Jan 2021 A college course which has proved a "stepping-stone to stardom" for performers in some of the West End's biggest shows... 18 Jan 2021 Fancy netting a six-figure salary by playing FIFA on your Xbox? Could your Call of Duty skills help you rake...

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FASHION AND TEXTILES PRODUCT TECHNOLOGIST

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Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education

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Reference Number: ST0540

Details of standard

Occupational Profile:

This occupation is found in sewn product manufacturers, footwear manufacturers, brands and retailers. They can be involved in the production of a wide range and variety of products, from clothing and fashion to leather goods, shoes, soft furnishings, marine and medical textiles.

The broad purpose of the occupation is to provide technical support throughout the product development process and ensure approved samples with specifications; production instructions and production patterns are in place so the manufacturing process can commence and be completed by the required date and within budget.

In their daily work, an employee in this occupation could interact with designers, senior managers buyers, merchandisers, warehouse managers, pattern cutters, sample machinists, quality control and production managers, and customers; this will depend on the size of the company. They will be responsible for technical and commercial elements of the product development cycle in fast moving environment. In larger firms product technologists may work within a team, in smaller firms the product technologist will experience a significant degree of autonomy.

Product technologist typical duties include:

1. Evaluating new product designs

2. Supporting the production of sewn product samples

3. Sample review, evaluation and approval

4. Producing product specifications and production instructions

5. Identifying suitable materials and accessories

6. Analysing product returns and faults

7. Supporting the production and distribution processes

8. Costing and budget management

9. Quality assurance and control

10. Conduct product risk assessments

Communication:

Communication techniques, across all levels and departments involved in the sales, manufacturing and distribution process

Technical documents/records and electronic systems and the consequence of incorrectly completed records e.g. tech-packs, specifications, tracking, review notes, product history

Policies and procedures:

Health, safety, welfare and environmental policies, safe working practices and risks relevant to a sewn product working environment

Employer and employee legal obligations, employees' rights and responsibilities, equality and diversity

Legislation and regulations import regulations, safety regulations, trade regulations, duties and tariffs

Skills: Product Technologists can:
Develop and review samples:

Analyse, evaluate and cost the production of given designs and identify possible constraints

Develop samples that meets design, end use and specifications.

Contribute to fit sessions and production meetings

Analyse product samples with focus on quality, fit , risk and production processes e.g. size, shape, materials, timescales and costs

Carry out product risk assessments e.g. safety, colour, cost, time, fitness for purpose, production process

Approve samples and allocate sample seal if appropriate, maintaining a complete history of the sealing process

Oversee material and product tests and analyse test results e.g. performance, function, wash, wearer/user trials

Support production

Develop product tech-packs e.g. specifications, working drawings, measurements, labelling, quality standards, tolerances, materials

Ensure legislation and regulation requirements are met e.gimport regulations, safety regulations, trade regulations

Deal with product faults and returns

Conduct product reviews on returned products

Analyse product returns and identify potential solutions e.g. change materials, re-cut pattern

Complete analysis reports

Quality Assurance

Manage quality problems and eradicate potential issues e.g. fabric, trim, construction faults

Contribute to the solution of production issues e.g. thread breakage, missing components

Work with the warehouse and distribution systems and processes to ensure, safe, punctual delivery of products

Communicate effectively:

Use relevant communication systems and accurately complete work records

Behaviour: Product Technologists:

Take ownership and accept of responsibility for product technology work

Strive to improve product quality, production processes and production systems

Are responsive to changing priorities and requirements of the product industry, demonstrating initiative, confidence and self-motivation

Work positively as part of a team, taking account of equality and diversity

Build effective internal and external working relationships, networking across all levels and departments

Have a methodical and calm approach to workplace pressure, deadlines and production demands

Are assertive, resilient and confident when communicating views and ideas that will benefit the product design and manufacturing process

Are reflective on skills, knowledge and behaviours and seek opportunities to develop and advance skills in response to the evolving production environment and technologies

Have a safety first attitude, ensuring the safety of self and others as appropriate in a sewn product manufacturing environment

Duration:

Typically 22 months

Entry requirements:

Entry requirements will be a matter for individual employers, typically an apprentice might be expected to have already achieved an appropriate level of English and maths (GCSE grades C or above)

English and maths:

Individuals without Level 2 English and maths will need to achieve this level prior to end-point assessment.

For those with an education, health and care plan or a legacy statement the apprenticeships English and maths minimum requirement is Entry Level 3. British Sign Language qualification is an alternative to English qualifications for those whom this is their primary language.

Level:

4

Review:

After three years

Crown copyright © 2021. You may re-use this information (not including logos) free of charge in any format or medium, under the terms of the Open Government Licence. Visit www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/doc/open-government-licence

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Fashion and textiles product technologist

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Reference Number: ST0540 This occupation is found in sewn product manufacturers, footwear manufacturers, brands and retailers. They can be involved in the production of a wide range and variety of products, from clothing and fashion to leather goods, shoes, soft furnishings, marine and medical textiles.

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The Craft – The Gentle Art of Shoemaking

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In the strongest possible contrast to the factory-made article, a pair of Lobb's handmade shoes are a work of art, unique to their owner. They are created by the close teamwork of a number of specialised craftsmen, all of whom have served long apprenticeships to acquire their particular skills.

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The Craft - The Gentle Art of Shoemaking - John Lobb Ltd

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In the strongest possible contrast to the factory-made article, a pair of Lobb's handmade shoes are a work of art, unique to their owner. They are created by the close teamwork of a number of specialised craftsmen, all of whom have served long apprenticeships to acquire their particular skills.

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How to become a shoe maker

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You could get into this job through an advanced apprenticeship in fashion and textiles, specialising in footwear.
Entry requirements
You'll usually need:

5 GCSEs at grades 9 to 4 (A* to C), including English and maths, for an advanced apprenticeship
Working towards this role
You could start as a design assistant in a studio and learn on the job. With further training, you could begin to produce your own designs.

It's very important to put together a portfolio of work that you can take to interviews. This should include designs, technical drawings and mood boards to show your creative talents.

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You could get into this job through an advanced apprenticeship in fashion and textiles, specialising in footwear. Entry requirements You'll usually need: 5 GCSEs at grades 9 to 4 (A* to C), including English and maths, for an advanced apprenticeship Working towards this role You could start as a design assistant in a studio and learn on the job.

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Fiona Campbell MA

Fiona is a footwear design alumnus of Cordwainers College (now part of the London College of Fashion) and Leathersellers Guild Award recipient. She has extensive experience in all aspects of British bespoke shoe making with a career that spans fashion footwear; running her own footwear label and retail outlet; working with one of the longest standing West End bespoke shoe makers in London (established in 1857); and working with members of the exclusive, West End Master Boot Makers Society.

Fiona is a consultant in couture footwear; a guest lecturer at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London; and teaches at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts in London, Dubai and Singapore.

Fiona teaches 1-to-1, short and five-day footwear pattern making classes at the Carréducker Shoe & Leather School

Deborah Carré

Deborah has a BA Hons in Fashion Design & Marketing and specialised in footwear for her degree collection, working with Tricker's of Northampton. She went on to a career in public relations before winning a coveted Queen Elizabeth Trust Scholarship in 1997 to train as a handsewn shoemaker. She completed her apprenticeship with a master shoe maker for John Lobb, where she met James, before setting up her own business, Atelier Carré in 2001 and co-founding Carréducker in 2004. Deborah was a recipient of a Balvenie Master of Crafts Award for Leather in 2011 and the QEST Award for Excellence in 2018.

Deborah is committed to passing on her skills. She was a visiting lecturer in accessory and footwear design at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London; and, together with James, has been teaching hand sewn shoemaking since 2007, co-founding the Carréducker Shoe & Leather School in Shoreditch in 2018.

James Ducker

Master shoe maker and co-founder of Carréducker, James Ducker was attracted to handsewn shoe making whilst teaching business English in Spain. He attended the Shoemakers Guild School, Barcelona before returning to London to continue his shoemaking training as an apprentice at John Lobb, St James.

He was a shoe maker for John Lobb until 2004 when he co-founded Carréducker with Deborah. James is a passionate champion of handsewn shoemaking. Before co-founding Carréducker's own world-renowned shoemaking courses, he lectured in handsewn shoe making at Cordwainers College (now the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London).

Today, he and Deborah welcome students from all over the world to study the traditional craft of English hand sewn shoemaking at their Shoe & Leather School in Shoreditch.

Marcus McGrath

Marcus is a master shoe maker with a passion for traditional bespoke shoe making. His interest in the hand sewn craft began when he was studying footwear at Cordwainers College (now part of the London College of Fashion) where he graduated with an HND in Footwear Design.

From there, Marcus took the traditional route into the hand sewn trade and became a shoe making apprentice with John Lobb, St. James. Today he is one of their longest serving master shoe makers. Marcus recognises the importance of passing on his skills and knowledge. Not only was he a hand sewn shoe making tutor at Cordwainers College, but he has been responsible for training the shoe making apprentices at John Lobb for the past 15 years.

Marcus is a visiting lecturer at the Carréducker Shoe & Leather School.

Riina Õun

Riina is a London based leather accessories designer and maker with 15 years of experience in the craft, specialising in hand-stitched, luxury leather gloves.

Since 2013, Riina has worked as creative director, designer, and maker for her brand Riina O'. The Riina O brand´s goal is to carry on the traditional glove hand making techniques, combining them with modern technological advantages, such as CAD, machine embroidery and laser cutting.

Handcrafting leather gloves is a dying skill. For this reason, Riina Õun has started teaching glove making workshops at universities and organisations around the world from New York to China and we're delighted to host her at the Shoe & Leather School, Shoreditch too!

Frankey Pinnock

Frankey is a leatherworker and artist-maker. She began her career in craft as a junior modelmaker at Aardman Animations before completing a Model Making degree at the Arts University, Bournemouth. Here she explored design and making for puppetry, architecture, conceptual footwear and costume and was selected as a finalist in the World of Wearable Art competition in New Zealand.

She went on to work for renowned leather interiors company Bill Amberg Studio, where she trained in traditional hand stitching, gaining experience working in an array of leathers and their applications across a variety of different disciplines. After two years, having developed skills in both hand and machine sewing, Frankey went on to specialise in bag making, working for Simpson of London.

Independently, Frankey's passion for leather and its inherent qualities lead her to traditional handsewn shoe making and its use of English oak bark tanned leather. In 2017, she was awarded both a QEST scholarship and the Heritage Craft Association trainee award to continue her footwear training.

Frankey is a visiting lecturer at the Carréducker Shoe & Leather School

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Carreducker Shoe & Leather School, Shoreditch, London - Tutors

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Fiona is a footwear design alumnus of Cordwainers College (now part of the London College of Fashion) and Leathersellers Guild Award recipient.

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Instagram account

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Sebastian Tarek is a bespoke shoemaker, working solo on every aspect of the process - from first measurement to last stitch. Each pair is entirely handmade and designed exactly to the wearer's taste and fit, resulting in a unique collaboration between client and craftsman.

Based in east London, Sebastian is from a long line of shoemakers, stretching back to the early nineteen hundreds. With many years of experience, his skill and exacting eye for detail results in shoes that are made for life. Sebastian's materials are carefully sourced from across the UK, from some of the oldest and most prestigious tanneries in the world.

Educated at Cordwainers, London

Shoemaker for several members of The West End Master Bootmakers' Association

Visiting lecturer on MA Footwear at the Royal College of Art, London

Duffy, Hostem, Toogood

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Sebastian Tarek is a bespoke shoemaker, working solo on every aspect of the process - from first measurement to last stitch. Each pair is entirely handmade and designed exactly to the wearer's taste and fit, resulting in a unique collaboration between client and craftsman.

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Apprenticeships in the British Footwear Industry

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Apprenticeships in the British Footwear Industry

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The BFA is committed to supporting the British footwear industry in the development and training of new and inspired people. We encourage anyone who is looking to learn new skills and join a fast growing and varied profession to pursue a career in this globally renowned industry.
The footwear industry offers apprenticeships in a range of different areas, from technical roles to footwear production. By becoming an apprentice you will get the opportunity to:

Work directly with an experienced team

Gain job-specific skills

Earn a salary and get holiday pay

Take time to study and further your development

Below are a selection of apprenticeships which are currently open. Please note that all apprenticeships are managed through the relevant businesses, the BFA does not run apprenticeship schemes and cannot take applications for apprenticeships.

Footwear Manufacturer Apprenticeship Entry level 2

A career in Great British footwear manufacturing is full of possibility for new entrants. BFA has supported the footwear manufacturing industry to create a new apprenticeship in footwear manufacturing. A guide for learners can be found here, and a guide for employers can be found here.

Beautiful footwear manufactured in the UK remains in high demand throughout the world and this apprenticeship will open the industry to a new generation of craft manufacturers, shoemakers, technicians and managers.

This apprenticeship is currently only available through Northampton College and servicing the Northamptonshire premium cluster of manufacturers. If you would like to apply for an apprenticeship you can register your interest (title your email 'Footwear Manufacturing Apprenticeship') to this email address: Business.centre@Northamptoncollege.ac.uk

Employers and members can also contact: training@britishfootwearassociation.co.uk for further details.

A new Fashion & Textiles Product Technologist apprenticeship standard is now approved and suitable for companies wishing to train footwear technologists.

This follows negotiation with the garment industry by BFA, and we are immensely grateful to the employers on the garment technology Trailblazer group who allowed us an 11th hour intervention.

BFA is working to support the provision of training for this key role.

The online standard is crucial reading for any employer wishing to train a footwear technologist www.instituteforapprenticeships.org/apprenticeship-standards/fashion-and-textiles-product-technologist. The weblink also contains a link to the crucial end point assessment plan, which the apprentice will have to undertake at the end of the two year training period.

There are two training providers interested to deliver this training. Bridgewater College (South West and London) and Fashion Capital (London).

Bridgewater already have some interest from employers in footwear and the employer contact is VASSALLICOLLARDM@btc.ac.uk

Fashion Capital have long worked with retailers in the area of garment technology and are interested to expand into footwear technology, subject to achieving a viable cohort size. The contact is Jenny Holloway at jenny@fashion-enter.com

For further details, members may contact: training@britishfootwearassociation.co.uk

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Latest British Footwear Apprenticeships - British Footwear Association

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The BFA is committed to supporting the British footwear industry in the development and training of new and inspired people. We encourage anyone who is looking to learn new skills and join a fast growing and varied profession to pursue a career in this globally renowned industry.

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Achilles Khorassandjian

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The HCA/Marsh Trainer of the Year award went to shoe maker Achilles Khorassandjian, shoe making tutor at Capel Manor College in Enfield, Middlesex.

Achilles, known as Ash, has worked in the shoemaking industry for 57 years, and still designs and makes shoes from his home studio as well as supporting the next generation of UK shoemakers with his knowledge and skills.
Video: Patricia Lovett MBE, Chair of the HCA, and Nick Carter, Marsh Christian Trust, presenting the award to Achilles Khorassandjian, HCA/Marsh Trainer of the Year award winner 2020

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The Heritage Crafts Awards " Achilles Khorassandjian - shoe maker

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The HCA/Marsh Trainer of the Year award went to shoe maker Achilles Khorassandjian, shoe making tutor at Capel Manor College in Enfield, Middlesex. Achilles, known as Ash, has worked in the shoemaking industry for 57 years, and still designs and makes shoes from his home studio as well as supporting the next generation of UK shoemakers with his knowledge and skills.

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Dominic Casey

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How Bespoke Shoe Lasts are Made | By Dominic Casey

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You Tube

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Orthopedic Shoe Making - Introduction to the Video Series

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Barefoot Shoes | Minimalist Footwear | Vivobarefoot UK

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Vivobarefoot offer a range of Barefoot Shoes for Men, Women and Kids. Ultra-thin puncture resistance soles that let your feet do the natural thing.

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Lacoste shoes for women: Boots, Trainers, Sneakers | LACOSTE

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Shop women shoes at Lacoste Official Online shop. Find the iconic trainers from Lacoste and also women shoes: ballet pumps, ankle boots, wedge sneakers...

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Arts Thread is the leading digital platform for emerging designers and artists. A launchpad for the next generation of creative talent representing 400,000 students in more than 150 countries from over 100 design schools.

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Loake Shoemakers - Fine English made Goodyear welted shoes and boots since 1880

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Creating Icons Since 1880 We shine a spotlight on some of our most revered time-honoured styles and silhouettes as we celebrate Loake's illustrious history, heritage and craftsmanship

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Following the Government's recent announcement, we regret to inform you that we will not be seeing clients for face-to-face appointments in London or Blockley for the time being.

If you have an appointment booked in the next few weeks we will be contacting you very soon to reschedule it. Please be assured that Bill Bird Shoes will reopen as soon as we are able to. Keeping you and our team safe, well and healthy is our main priority at this time and we thank you for your understanding.

Telephone calls and emails will be monitored, so please leave a message if you have any questions regarding an existing order or placing a new one.

Thank you again to all of our clients for your ongoing support.
Please be safe, take care of yourselves, your loved ones and your communities. We look forward to seeing you as soon as possible. Bill, Russell, Emily, Becs, Chris, George and Emm x
At Bill Bird Shoes, we offer you a great deal more than a range of different shoe shapes and styles.

All our shoes are real solutions designed and made by our small, dedicated team to solve the fitting and walking difficulties of real people - our many happy clients.

Every pair of boots and shoes you see on this website has been individually and specifically made-to-measure for clients who are unable to wear off-the-shelf footwear because of foot problems.

Because we offer a one-to-one personal service we are happy to discuss your footwear needs on the phone and what the process involves before you decide to go ahead with an order.
Statistics show that seven out of ten of our first-time customers go on to re-order at a later date.
Our shoes

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Welcome to Bill Bird Shoes in Blockley, Gloucestershire. We are bespoke orthopaedic shoemakers based in the heart of the Cotswolds. We also see clients fortnightly in London W1. Wearing shoes can become a pleasure again, whatever shape your feet are in.

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Bespoke footwear - known to most as "custom" or "made-to-order" footwear - is a complicated arena in which to shop. The classical route is to find a custom shoemaker who understands your style, takes the time to get to know you, and then discusses in-depth what kind of shoes to make. This is true "bespoke" as it began in England. In recent years, bespoke has also come to mean companies which offer several pre-made styles, which they custom-craft to fit your foot, based on measurements you provide.

Should you choose to go the truly bespoke shoe route, you can expect to spend, quite literally, years waiting for your shoes. If you go the other, faux-bespoke (aka semi-bespoke), made-to-order direction, the shoes aren't likely to last quite as long, and aren't going to fit with the same precision, but you can have them in a reasonable time frame, and they'll cost about half to one-third the price of their more labor-intensive counterparts.

Whichever path you walk, you must know where to take your business so that the footwear you get is as unique as you, and arouses envy in all who see your stride. That's why we have the 21 most elite bespoke footwear makers for every style.

Alfred & Sargent's

Old Shoppe: Since 1899, A&S has been crafting shoes in the old style, with their business lurking in the Northamptonshire area; home of classic English bespoke. Refusing to bow to many trends, they specialize in men's traditional dress shoes, and that focus is apparent in their work.

Andrew McDonald

Bally

Berluti

Manual: Each piece is cut by hand, sewn by hand, and even burnished by hand. As much status symbol as they are striking bespoke shoes, you'll pay dearly, but it will be worth it for the heads you turn when you wear a pair of Berluti.

Bionda Castana

Rich, Tactile: Bionda Castana exclusively makes bespoke shoes for women, making them a black sheep from the word go. Add in the fact that they prize tactile feel and comfort over looks (though the looks are arresting) and you'll find sky-high heels that feel silky smooth.

Buchanan Bespoke

Buttero

Door-Kickers: Buttero runs the gamut, but they essentially cater to the urban culture, and are fine, Italian-made Doc Marten's for those who prefer something a little less pedestrian. Tough as hell and meant for punishment, they also have a youthful look that's more modern than most tailored shoes.

Caroline Groves

Church's

Crockett & Jones

Edward Green

From the Old Country: The tale here is simple: Edward Green has been making shoes in northern England for more than a century, choosing the finest leathers and working each shoe in the same location that Edward himself chose. They're as personal as you can get without being family.

FEIT

George Cleverley

Art & Craft: Up until 1991, if you bought a pair of Cleverley shoes, odds are that George himself had a hand in their making. A highly respected name that has some of the most exacting standards in the industry, you'll pay a king's ransom, but you'll be walking on air the second you don shoes bearing this brand.
Editor's note: Definitely a must to see what these folks are able to do with leather - it's simply incredible. Spend a few minutes and check the video above.
Heel the World

Savior: Heel the World seeks to single-handedly bring back the bespoke shoe. Based out of Africa, the company itself is philanthropic in that they train unemployed workers to craft shoes, giving them a valuable skill while also giving the world gorgeous, truly bespoke shoes; and saving lives.

John Lobb

Legendary: John Lobb supposedly walked hundreds of miles in a pair of shoes he made himself to seek his fortune in London. That was 1851 and since then the shoes coming out of the company he made have been at the top of bespoke shoemaker lists the world over. Owned now by Hermès in Paris, John Lobb shoes are the best of French and English work combined.

Johnston & Murphy

Stick to Tradition: The Johnston & Murphy company itself endured some negative attention a few years back, but rather than fold to pressure, they went back to what they do best: True custom shoes made right in Nashville. Though their selection is limited, the shoes they do have are supple, comfortable, and impressive for black-tie or business attire.

Loake

Fast & Dirty: Loake shoes are about as far as one can get from actual bespoke, while still being considered by many to be worthy of the name. Factory-made, there's still a huge human element that goes into every shoe made by Loake, all at prices that rival companies without the same QC. They're an indomitable introduction to the bespoke world for those with limited resources.

Ludwig Reiter

Pure Vienna: For four generations, Ludwig Reiter has been making Goodyear-welted shoes in the Viennese style. Though they've branched into sneakers and other contemporary items in recent years, when you get a bespoke from them you can be assured a true Reiter had a hand in the process. [Editor's note: that's how they do it]

Monge

From Nowhere: Bespoke shoes usually come in basic leather or suede, with a few dyes that are mostly shades of brown and black. Monge revolutionizes the industry with colors and styles that let you show off your feet with plenty of pomp and just enough circumstance to get by.

Oliver Moore Bootmakers

Local Flavor: Don't let the word "Bootmaker" confuse you. The Oliver Moore company makes shoes of all kinds, right in New York. The quaint little shop is highly traditional, offering a true bespoke experience without needing to go deep into the heart of London.

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The 19 Most Elite Bespoke Footwear Shoemakers

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Bespoke footwear - known to most as "custom" or "made-to-order" footwear - is a complicated arena in which to shop. The classical route is to find a custom shoemaker who understands your style, takes the time to get to know you, and then discusses in-depth what kind of shoes to make.

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In the centre of London's West End at 9 St. James St., lies the beautiful premises of John Lobb , Bootmaker. Now under its fifth and present generation of hand-made boot and shoemakers, the Lobb family firm stands, as it has always done, for supremely high standards in the exacting craft of bespoke shoemaking.

A Lobb customer receives courteous service, and craftsmanship of the highest possible precision, as a pair of Lobb shoes is meticulously prepared to his or her particular needs. The result is a pair of Lobb shoes, singularly tailored to the customers requirements, as robust and loyal as a well-trained gun-dog, yet as stylish and scintillating as any work of art can be

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John Lobb - Makers of the finest hand made to measure shoes and boots - John Lobb Ltd

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In the centre of London's West End at 9 St. James St., lies the beautiful premises of John Lobb , Bootmaker. Now under its fifth and present generation of hand-made boot and shoemakers, the Lobb family firm stands, as it has always done, for supremely high standards in the exacting craft of bespoke shoemaking.

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Best Bespoke Shoemakers around the world

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Best Bespoke Shoemakers around the world

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What Are Bespoke Shoes? Top 10 Best Bespoke Shoemakers Around The World

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Bespoke shoes are not only the crème de la crème breed of custom shoes but they're also the most the one most steeped in tradition and heritage. A rarefied service that is a testament to hand craftsmanship, bespoke shoemaking is as sophisticated as it is extravagant.

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Bespoke Shoes & Boots | The Original Handmade English Country Shoes and Boots by Tricker's

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The original and still the best. Equally at home in Chelsea and at Cheltenham, Tricker's hand-made country shoes have been leading the way since before Queen Victoria's day.

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British label Caroline Groves is a rarity - a truly bespoke service dedicated to creating exceptional women's shoes and boots that blur the lines between art, fashion and fantasy, while remaining committed to using traditional handmade techniques. Caroline Groves' designs are a symbol of freedom and individuality. Each bespoke pair of Caroline Groves shoes are as unique as the client who commissions it.

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British label Caroline Groves is a rarity - a truly bespoke service dedicated to creating exceptional women's shoes and boots that blur the lines between art, fashion and fantasy, while remaining committed to using traditional handmade techniques. Caroline Groves' designs are a symbol of freedom and individuality.

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The HCA/Marsh Trainer of the Year award went to shoe maker Achilles Khorassandjian, shoe making tutor at Capel Manor College in Enfield, Middlesex.

Achilles, known as Ash, has worked in the shoemaking industry for 57 years, and still designs and makes shoes from his home studio as well as supporting the next generation of UK shoemakers with his knowledge and skills.
Video: Patricia Lovett MBE, Chair of the HCA, and Nick Carter, Marsh Christian Trust, presenting the award to Achilles Khorassandjian, HCA/Marsh Trainer of the Year award winner 2020

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The Heritage Crafts Awards " Achilles Khorassandjian - shoe maker

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The HCA/Marsh Trainer of the Year award went to shoe maker Achilles Khorassandjian, shoe making tutor at Capel Manor College in Enfield, Middlesex. Achilles, known as Ash, has worked in the shoemaking industry for 57 years, and still designs and makes shoes from his home studio as well as supporting the next generation of UK shoemakers with his knowledge and skills.

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1833 Factory Act - The National Archives

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In 1833 the Government passed a Factory Act to improve conditions for children working in factories.

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Craftsmanship - bespoke shoes, training & supplies online & in London

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Craftsmanship - bespoke handsewn shoe makers; educators - online and face-to-face training; online shoe & leather supplies shop

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At the Livery Dinner in November, members of the Company were able to view an exhibition of shoes from the London College of Fashion. These ranged from the work of recent graduates, to historic items from the collection.

Selected By Liveryman Sue Saunders, Senior Lecturer at LCF, the display provided a wonderful snapshot of women's shoes across 300 years. The display was curated by Jane Holt, Senior Research Fellow, Archives, at the London College of Fashion.

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At the Livery Dinner in November, members of the Company were able to view an exhibition of shoes from the London College of Fashion. These ranged from the work of recent graduates, to historic items from the collection. Selected By Liveryman Sue Saunders, Senior Lecturer at LCF, the display provided a wonderful snapshot of women's shoes across 300 years.

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Since we launched our online courses on home shoemaking we have received lots of great questions about sewing machines. In this post we hope to put to rest some of your questions and point you in the right direction so that you can start your shoemaking journey from home.
DO YOU NEED A SEWING MACHINE TO MAKE SHOES?
Mostly yes, but sometimes no.

Most of the stitching on shoe uppers is serving one or some of the following purposes:
-Attaching the lining to the upper material
-Attaching 1 panel to another
-Attaching a decorative trimming/embellishment
-Adding strength to certain areas

All of this stitching could technically be done by hand but you'll find that it will be tricky to stitch through such thick materials and make it look neat...not to mention it would take a verrrrrry very long time. For these reasons using a sewing machine is going to make things much easier.

You can get away with not using a sewing machine if you plan to make a simple pair of sandals. We often use a thick unlined leather for some of our sandal straps, and occasionally will use a rivet to attach a buckle - all without the use of a sewing machine.

(No sewing here! That stitched edge is actually a pre-stitched trimming called 'randing' - read on to find out more...) ARE SEWING MACHINES DIFFICULT TO USE?
Sewing machines do not need to be scary! Most sewing machines will come with a user friendly manual or DVD to help teach you from scratch (if you buy one secondhand you should be able to find a free manual for your model by searching online). A lot of the conventional sewing machines will also come with lots of user friendly features such as a needle threader, speed adjustment etc.

We only use straight stitch with the I Can Make Shoes techniques so there is no need to master all of the other stitch features to make shoes from home.

The trickiest part of sewing shoe uppers is sewing tight curves but remember that practise makes perfect. We suggest drawing some curved lines on some scrap materials to stitch over, so that you can build up your confidence first.

*Top tip: If you are struggling to remember what all the knobs and dials on your machine do, attach some sticky notes to your sewing machine for guidance. Your sewing machine manual will tell you how everything works and there should be a troubleshooting section for any issues you might come across. For example: Tension dial - Bobbin thread coming through to the right side, loosen tension (lower number) etc.
WHAT IS A POST BED SEWING MACHINE?
Traditionally many shoe uppers are stitched on what is called a 'post bed sewing machine'. As the name suggests this is where you stitch on top of a post as opposed to a flat surface (search 'post bed sewing machine' on google images to get a better idea). As you start stitching together a shoe upper it will take on the shape of a shoe, and this can make it tricky to access/stitch certain areas of the upper on a flat bed machine (particularly with boots). However, post bed sewing machines are normally very expensive (£1500+ new), take up a lot of room and are tricky to get hold of so we teach all of our techniques on a standard flat bed sewing machine - boots included!

*If you plan to make a career of repairing shoes you will need a post bed sewing machine so that you can access certain areas of the shoe once their soles/heels are attached.
SO, WHAT SEWING MACHINE DO I NEED TO MAKE SHOES?
Most domestic sewing machines will have no issue stitching through the thicker materials/leather required for making shoe uppers, you do not need a shoe/leather specific sewing machine. We recommend choosing a machine that can stitch through thick denim or upholstery fabric as normally these machines have a bit more power to get through thicker materials. You are also less likely to have tension issues and skipped stitches. You do not need a heavy duty machine but a sewing machine with a heavy body or metal casing often means it will be stronger.

If you already own a sewing machine, test out its capabilities by stitching through some thick scrap materials/leathers. Judge the thickness of some of the shoes you have at home to give you an idea of the thickness you'll need to stitch through. Read on to see our top tips for sewing leather.

In our shoemaking workshops we use a 'Janome HD9 Professional' sewing machine. This is a heavy duty machine and at £1000 is not cheap, but as we use it nearly every day it is a great investment for us. If you plan to make a career of shoemaking this is a great machine to have. Our previous model was the 'Janome 1600P' which again had no problem stitching through thick materials and leather.

Another great sewing machine is the 'Singer 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine'. Priced at around £350 this is a touch more affordable and also has a range of different stitches that can be used for other craft/sewing projects.

Try out www.tysew.co.uk and John Lewis for more sewing machines. Both companies have extensive ranges of sewing machines available and viewable reviews to compare models.

Sewing only makes up around 10% of the shoemaking process so it may be worth asking to borrow a sewing machine from a friend if you are looking to keep costs down or want to try it out before investing.
WHAT ABOUT STITCHING ON THE SOLES?
Most soles are glued on so you wont need a machine for this. We sometimes glue on a pre-stitched decorative trimming on the edge of soles called 'randing' (shown in the sandal image above). Randing gives the illusion of what is called a welted construction but most shoes with sole stitching will be made using randing instead.

We attach sneaker/trainer soles with a 'speedy stitcher' hand tool and have a full tutorial on how this is done within our online course.
ANY OTHER TIPS / WHAT ELSE DO I NEED WITH A SEWING MACHINE?
We use denim/jeans needles with our sewing machines as they are strong and sharp and don't leave large holes in the leather like some leather needles do.

You will need polyester/nylon thread for stitching shoe uppers as it is strong and unlikely to break. We like to use 'Gutterman Mara' sewing thread (in thickness 50 or 70). If you are not sure if your thread is strong enough, see if you can break a strand between your hands - if it breaks it's not strong enough.

We use a standard sewing machine foot for most of the stitching but having a zipper foot on hand is great for adding zips or decorative piping, so that you can get a close and neat finish. A zipper foot is also great if you are stitching tight curves and are struggling to see how close you are to your reference point. Some machines have what is called a 'walking foot' and this also works great.

If you plan to stitch with patent leather/vinyl or any other materials that have a tendency to get sticky: smearing a little bit of moisturiser along the area you'll be stitching will help the sewing machine feed through the material and not get stuck.
If you have any other questions or queries regarding sewing footwear, any of our courses, or have any great tips or machine recommendations to share then please get in touch at info@icanmakeshoes.com

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SEWING MACHINES FOR SHOEMAKING - I Can Make Shoes

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Since we launched our online courses on home shoemaking we have received lots of great questions about sewing machines. In this post we hope to put to rest some of your questions and point you in the right direction so that you can start your shoemaking journey from home.

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We've developed a range of handsewn shoe making and leather craft kits that include the tools and materials that we work with here in our Shoreditch workshop, in East London.

SHOE MAKING KITS

We sell everything that you will need for handsewn shoe making including lasts and uppers made to your design and specification, as well as specialist shoe making tools and materials that we use in our own bespoke workshop.

These include our home-made thread wax; Bakers of Colyton oak bark tanned leather; and uppers and lasts made to order. (If we don't sell something it's often because you'll be able to find it at your local hardware store or there is a simple alternative, like fishing line instead of bristles).

LEATHER CRAFT KITS

Our leather craft kit and projects are designed to get you making and to enjoy working with one of the oldest and most versatile materials known to man.

Natural leather is wonderful to work with and sustainably-sourced, is a good environmental choice. Here's why - we work with vegetable tanned leathers from artisanal tanneries in Italy and England where the leather is tanned with natural organic matter such as oak bark, chestnut and mimosa. This natural process gives the leather a wonderful smell; it wears well, looking better and better the more it is used and handled; develops a wonderful patina with age; and is repairable.

Our hardware is sourced from Italy and from Abbey England to offer a variety of aesthetic depending on the look and feel of the accessory being made.

If you have any questions please email us and if you'd like to know more about working with leather to make shoes and accessories, why not join one of our courses or classes, online or in person?

Happy making!

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Supplies - handsewn shoe making & leather craft kits, tools and materials

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We've developed a range of handsewn shoe making and leather craft kits that include the tools and materials that we work with here in our Shoreditch workshop, in East London.

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If you're interested in the craft and attention to detail that goes into manufacturing the best shoes and boots, then a factory tour at one of Northampton's leading shoe factories is a great way to see the process first hand.

Most of the established shoe and boot factories still located in Northamptonshire - John Lobb, Edward Green, Trickers, Cheaney, Church Shoes - will accommodate a factory tour if you give them a call directly, but only one (as far as we are aware) lets you book a factory tour visit from set dates: NPS Shoes, makers of the original Solovair® footwear range.

NPS Shoe factory tour details
And, as luck may have it, NPS Shoes have got a couple of factory tours scheduled for November and December this year at their factory in Woolaston, about a 20 minute drive from Northampton.

The upcoming shoe factory tour dates are Saturday the 10th of November and Saturday the 8th of December and you can pre-book your tour via the online registration form. You can also contact them directly on 01933 664 207 if you have any questions about the factory tour.

Dr Martens Cobbs Lane factory tour
We'd also recommend taking the opportunity to head over to the Doc Shop and pick up a discounted pair of Dr Martens if you're already in Woolaston.

One of the questions we're often asked as whether or not Dr Martens do factory tours and the answer is yes. If you're interested in a tour of Dr Martens Cobbs Lane factory then you need to call the head office on 01933 663 281 and ask for Stephen Bent, the Production Manager, who will do his best to organise a tour.

A very quick guide to a shoe factory tour
If you're not sure what to expect from a factory tour then check out some of the many videos on YouTube. We've included one of the best ones below ( a beautifully made film by David Lale & Euan Denholm that was filmed at the Edward Green factory) for your reference.

The shoemaking process
As a rule, you will generally be taken through the shoemaking process from the 'Clicking' or Cutting Room, through to the Closing Room, and ending with the Finishing Room and the Shoe Room. You'll also get the opportunity to speak with the expert craftsmen and women that create the shoes and boots.

From our experience, you will also end up leaving with an even greater respect for the attention to detail and many, many processes ( Trickers put it at a whopping 260!) that go into making your favourite shoes and boots.

Factory tour - book now!
Get your NPS Shoes factory tour booked now, or give one of your favourite brands a call and organise your own factory visit, and don't forget to let the team at Northampton Shoes know how you get on!

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Northampton Shoe Factory Tours - A Quick Guide

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If you're interested in the craft and attention to detail that goes into manufacturing the best shoes and boots, then a factory tour at one of Northampton's leading shoe factories is a great way to see the process first hand.

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From the St. George subway station (on both the Bloor-Danforth and the Yonge-University lines), exit onto St. George Street. Turn left (walk south) for about 30 seconds and you'll be at the northeast corner of Bloor Street West and St. George Street.