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Soil condition: Wet to moist dry

Current watering condition: Full watering, 1 - 2 times/ week (alot of roots)

Sun: Direct sun

Fertilizer: Yes

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https://byjus.com/biology/types-of-soil/

Grow activated Bifidobacterium:

Bacteria, sugar and water. Innoculate for 24 hours and pour in moist soil.

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Soil condition: Moist to wet soil

Current watering condition: Pour 200ml of water (no indirect sun)

Sun: Direct/indirect sun and Windy

Fertilizer: Yes, diluted fertiliser

Thai Watercress

Optimal temperature: 10 - 24 C

High temperature: 29C

Pennywort

Optimal 15 - 21C

High 35 - 40C

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Soil condition: Moist-dry

Current watering condition: Spray wet the soil, 1 time/week (no indirect sun)

Sun: Direct sun

Fertilizer: Yes

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Soil condition: Wet to moist dry

Current watering condition: Full watering, 1 - 2 times/ week (alot of roots)

Sun: Direct/ shady sun

Fertilizer: Yes

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White vinegar, sugar, garlic peel, onion peel, egg shell, tea leaves, banana skin, water and rest for 48 hours.

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Sprinkle on plant soil. Plant cutting wounds and during soil mixing.

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Soil condition: Slit, gravel, coco peat, vegetable soil moist dry

Current watering condition: Half watering, 1 time/week (no indirect sun)

Sun: Direct sun

Fertilizer: Yes diluted liquid fertilizer

Optimal: 15 - 32C (water 25% to keep moist, early spring)

Dormancy: below 15C

Roots 1 cm above the soil, 蘆頭 must exposed to prevent roting. use coco fibre to cover loosely the 蘆頭.

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5 Clove sticks in water, rest 48 hours.

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Soil condition: Moist-dry

Current watering conditon: Spray wet the soil, 2 times/

week(no indirect sun)

After 3 to 4 months - reduce water volume or watering frequency (when plant get older, they prefer slightly dryer soil.)

Sun: Indirect sun

Fertilizer: No or use diluted liquid fertilizer only

optimal temperature: 18 - 27C

high temperature: 35 - 40C

Dormancy: -10C

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Orange peels in water, rest 48 hours

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1. Crushed expired Vitamin C, B and Calcium tablet or egg shell

2. Tea leaves

3. Ash

4. Urine

5. Water 500ml to 1L

6. baking yeast 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon

7. put in warm water bath

8. rest 4 days to 1 week

Before use dilute 1:1000

use in Spring Summer Autumn

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New plant & old plant

1) use very small pot/ use big pot but shallow soil (checking roots

2) Less sunlight/ very little roots ---> use very little water, water in the morning

3) no roots ---> spray 1x and no fertilizer

4) 1-2 week after planting ---> water daily. 3 - 12 weeks after planting ---> water every 2-3 weeks. After 12 weeks ---> water weekly until roots are established 1 year.

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One of the best skills a gardener learns is being able to work with ambiguity. Sometimes planting and care instructions that gardeners receive can be a little on the vague side, and we either resort to relying on our best judgment or asking our knowledgeable friends at Gardening Know How for help. I think one of the most ambiguous directives is the one where the gardener is told to perform a specific gardening task "until it is well established." That is a bit of a head scratcher, isn't it? Well, what does well established mean? When is a plant established? How long until plants are well established? Read on to learn more about "well-established" garden plants.

What Does Well Established Mean?

Let's take a moment to think about our jobs. When you started a new job, you initially needed a lot of nurturing and support in your position. Over the course of a period of time, perhaps a year or two, the level of support you received was gradually reduced until you were able to begin thriving in your position by yourself with a good support system from above. At this point you would have been considered well established. This concept of being well established can be applied to the plant world as well. Plants require a level of care from you at the outset of their plant lives in order to develop the healthy and widespread root systems they require to absorb much needed moisture and nutrients. However, once a plant becomes well established, this really does not mean it no longer needs support from you, it just means the level of support you'll need to provide may decrease.

When is a Plant Well Established?

This is a good question, and one that's difficult to give a black and white answer to. I mean, you really can't rip your plant out of the ground to gauge its root growth; that just wouldn't be a good idea, would it? When it comes to determining whether plants are well established or not, I think it really boils down to observation. Is the plant exhibiting good and healthy growth above the ground? Is the plant starting to meet its expected annual growth rate? Are you able to scale back a little on your level of care (primarily with watering) without the plant taking a total nosedive? These are the signs of well-established garden plants.

How Long until Plants are Well Established?

The amount of time it takes a plant to become established is variable depending on plant type, and it also could depend on the growing conditions. A plant provided with poor growing conditions will struggle and take longer to become established, if it does at all. Situating your plant in a suitable location (taking into account lighting, spacing, soil type, etc.), along with following good horticultural practices (watering, fertilizing, etc.) is a good step towards establishing plants. Trees and shrubs, for instance, can take two or more growing seasons to become established in order for their roots to branch well beyond the planting site. Perennial flowers, whether grown from seed or plants, may take a year or more to become established. Yes, I do know the above information is kind of vague - but gardeners deal well with ambiguity, right?!! The bottom line is to just take good care of your plants, and the rest will take care of itself!

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When Is A Plant Established - What Does "Well Established" Mean

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One of the most ambiguous directives is where the gardener is told to perform a specific gardening task "until it is well established." That is a bit of a head scratcher, isn't it? Well, what does wel

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7 to 15 days root die and bacteria growth. Too much bacteria inhibit new root growth. Add too much water and bacteria cause 悶根。

Repotting

. remove 1/3 to 1/2 old soil (remove old root and bacteria)

. add moist new soil (use soft black soil)

. put in small/same size pot with many holes( 乾濕循環)

. pour water 2X 3X （澆透 泥土）

. put under direct sunlight(10 - 16 days)

. no fertilizer in 1st month

. no leaves no fertilizer

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Situation 1:

After 1 year or 2 years, plant not nice.

In September.

Situation 2:

After repotting, plant appearance slim branches, yellow leaf, 悶根, control water, leaf drop.

upper soil moist and bottom soil dry

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Plant 要死不活

Cut branches ---> avoid rainy days, bacteria

1. Black stem/ green stem

cut flower, dry stem, black stem, keep leaves. Go Repot.

2. Too little leaf, dropping leaf, new 苗 dry up --->too much water in soil ---> root problem, bacteria.

dry up branches, yellow leaves, slim branches. Go Repot and put chopstick in soil

3. No leaves ---> bottom stem no black --->OK. Bottom stem black ---> throw away. Cause by root problem. Cut away slim branches, black stem cut slightly more. Go Repot.

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do not cut branches, remove leaves and need light fertiliser.

do not cut/ level up the top branches and leaves.

Growing shoots in Autumn:

unhealthy plants (little leaves, yellow leaves/ branches, dry branches, drop leaves, slim branches). cut away the unhealthy parts. Cause by root problem. Go Repot ---> may choose a slightly bigger pot if white root have alot.

healthy plant ( alot of green leaves)

cut the flower, remove a little leaves at bottom to show bottom stem.

Repot

Allow sunlight to reach the bottom stem.

no Fertilizer - no leaves or roots.

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30 deg C - sleep

15 - 25 deg C - growing

10 deg C - stop growing

5 deg C - sleep

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Always 乾透澆透 - put finger into 5cm deep soil to check the soil dryness.

Spring and Summer:

1. Add 1 - 2ml of liquid Fertilizer into 200ml of water container

2. Pour gently into dry soil and wait for 1 hour.

3. Pour water gently to soak and flush down the entire flower pot with water until water leak out (perform 3X).

4. Drill holes in soil

** Ensure the soil is dry before the next watering cycle

Autumn: Pour 200ml - 400 ml of water gently into the flower pot in morning (Moist-dry soil, not soggy condition).

Winter/ rainy days: Spray water only (limit water) or 200ml in the afternoon (maintain moist-dry soil condition). water temperature is room temperature.

2.53 复制打开抖音，看看【山师傅造花园的作品】# 养花小知识 # 盆栽 # 植物 植物多少天浇水... https://v.douyin.com/iMhqs854/ 11/20 tRk:/ e@b.nq

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a) appearance

flowering plants - flower fall ( not die) then leaves fall

Water gives to flower then leaves

leaves plant - leave darken then leaves fall then bottem old leaves turn yellow. water give to new leaves.

After watering the plant, 4th day plant fall means 3rd day need to water plant. 3rd day fall means 2nd day water plant.

B) water limitation ( soil dry moist cycle)

plant grow slowly or stop growing

leaves drop ( green/ yellow)

Best method to use is :

plant physical appearance and soil dry moist cycle.

1) plant fall

check soil - dry

check pot - light weight

means lack of water

so add water

2) plant fall

check soil - moist or too much water

means root rot, plants cannot absorb water and lead to lack of water. so Repot use new dry soil.

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1 . Affect

root cannot breath in soil, poor growth, wlited

2. Symptom

a. dry soil, plant wilted, dry up ---> lack of water

b. wet soil, plant wilted, leaf vein clear, yellow leaf, leaf edge brown ---> too much water

3. cause of 悶根

frequent watering, dry wet cycle not good, over use of clay / sticky soil, Repot --->soil poor drainage, young arrive plant ---> poor ventilation.

4. solution

stop watering, drill holes in soil, if soil too hard - add fermented goat Fertilizer.

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a) New and old leaves turns yellow, later too little leave.

Water too much

B) soil too hard

root unable to develop well, poor water absorption especially during 35C, 悶土根.

35C soil temperature disrupt root growth. need to change soil.

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temp difference 5C

change water routine

give more water or less water

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No wind

1) soil cannot dry/ no air circulation in soil/ no airy soil.

Have alot of water cause root rot and bacteria growth.

Solution: 1 time watering last 2- 5 days to dry, then control water volume.

Solution: drill holes in soil, add stone to increase air inside the soil. Make soil drier.

Closed window plant die

2) Temp increase

some plant does not like hot weather, so need wind to cool down.

Solution: plant move away from hot/warm area. Put a fan.

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1) Temp increase

need 通風

purpose decrease temperature

air moisture take away heat

leaves have air circulation

2)梅雨季節

need 通風

increase humidity, bacteria growth, leaves diseases, stem and root rot

3)After watering plant

need 通風/ air circulation in soil

悶土根

Solution: put at window during sunny day

4) humidity

new plant bring home

environment adaptation

old leaves yellow and drop

solution: need to increase humidity, spray water on leaves.

new plant change pot/ repot - increase soil humidity.

air roots - increase humidity to prevent air root dry up/ flatten/ rot

new shoot growing and 蘆頭 surrounding increase humidity

flowerpot/ soil humidity/ air circulation maintain

soil wetness Vs drainage (stone partial size)

Indoor plants: switch on fan, 1 - 2 hours

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due to rainy season/ Humidity

High humidity:

白粉病

灰霉病

黑班病

霜霉病 humidity 100%, early morning water droplet on leaves

Low humidity:

紅蜘蛛

sign/ symptoms

leaves drop

less leaves

Water evaporation low

悶土根

root rot

Black stem

solution

short rain - use preventive spray

long rain - use treatment spray

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1. Sun come out after rain, no Fertilizer. Temperature increase water evaporate, soil harden. fertiliser cause stuffiness and burning of roots.

2. rain for many days, no fertiliser. soil full of water, poor absorption of water and fertiliser from root hair. soil is stuffiness no air. if plant absorb fertiliser it will weaken and die.

allow soil to became drier before fertilise. loosen the soil. drill holes.

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Sunrise: E

Sunset: W

Mar - Sept (Spring - Summer time): E - NE

Sept - Mar (Autumn - Winter): E - SE

Mar - Sept (Spring - Summer time): W - NW

Sept - Mar (Autumn - Winter): W - SW

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NE Monsoon wind

Dec - Mar: N - NE

SW Monsoon wind

Jun - Sept: S - SE

other months: variable light wind

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Oct - Nov: Inter monsoon period, variable light wind

Dec - Mar: NE Monsoon period

Dec/Jan: wetter

Feb: less wet

Mar - May: Inter monsoon period, variable light wind

Jun - Sept: SW monsoon

Jun/Jul: hotter

Aug/Sept: less hot more heat

Every 7 - 10 years: switch between El Nino/ La Nina. It change the climate of the year.

El Nino: Hotter year

La Nina: Cooler year