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Consumer Math Lesson Companion (Editable PDF)

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Consumer Math Lesson Companion (Editable PDF)

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25-26 Editable Consumer Math Lesson Companion

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Webmail: bnaculich@ccaeducate.me

Zoom/Phone Help: Bookings Page

Phone: 570-323-1182 x 16213

Or chat me in Edio!

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A beautiful, free online scientific calculator with advanced features for evaluating percentages, fractions, exponential functions, logarithms, trigonometry, statistics, and more.

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Are you interested in getting a loan, but you want to know what it will cost you first? Are you looking at a personal loan offer and wondering how much you'll save on interest if you use it to consolidate your credit cards? If so, you can use this loan calculator to answer these questions. Enter your loan amount, interest rate, term, and start date, and this calculator will give you all the information you need nearly instantaneously! You can use this calculator for most loans, including auto loans, personal loans, mortgages, and more! Before you take the money from your lender, see precisely how much it's going to cost you.

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If you want to consolidate debt or make a big purchase, you might consider a loan. Try this loan calculator to see how much you'll pay!

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Calculator Use

Calculate compound interest on an investment or savings. Using the compound interest formula, calculate principal plus interest or principal or rate or time. Includes compound interest formulas to find principal, interest rates or final investment value including continuous compounding A = Pe^rt.

Compound Interest Equation
A = P(1 + r/n)nt
Where:

A = Accrued Amount (principal + interest)

P = Principal Amount

I = Interest Amount

R = Annual Nominal Interest Rate in percent

r = Annual Nominal Interest Rate as a decimal

r = R/100

t = Time Involved in years, 0.5 years is calculated as 6 months, etc.

n = number of compounding periods per unit t; at the END of each period

Compound Interest Formulas and Calculations:

Calculate Accrued Amount (Principal + Interest)

Calculate Principal Amount, solve for P

Calculate rate of interest in decimal, solve for r

Calculate rate of interest in percent

Calculate time, solve for t
t = ln(A/P) / n[ln(1 + r/n)] = [ ln(A) - ln(P) ] / n[ln(1 + r/n)]

Formulas where n = 1 (compounded once per period or unit t)

Calculate Accrued Amount (Principal + Interest)

Calculate Principal Amount, solve for P

Calculate rate of interest in decimal, solve for r

Calculate rate of interest in percent

Calculate time, solve for t
t = t = ln(A/P) / ln(1 + r) = [ ln(A) - ln(P) ] / ln(1 + r)

Continuous Compounding Formulas (n → ∞)

Calculate Accrued Amount (Principal + Interest)

Calculate Principal Amount, solve for P

Calculate rate of interest in decimal, solve for r

Calculate rate of interest in percent

Calculate time, solve for t

Example Calculation

I have an investment account that increased from $30,000 to $33,000 over 30 months. If my local bank offers savings account with daily compounding (365), what annual interest rate do I need to get from them to match the return I got from my investment account?

In the calculator select "Calculate Rate (R)". The equation the calculator will use is: r = n[(A/P)1/nt - 1] and R = r*100.

Enter:
Total P+I (A): $33,000
Principal (P): $30,000
Compound (n): Daily (365)
Time (t in years): 2.5 years (2.5 years is 30 months)
Your Answer: R = 3.8126% per year

Interpretation: You will need to put $30,000 into a savings account that pays a rate of 3.8126% per year and compounds interest daily in order to get the same return as your investment account.

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Calculates principal, principal plus interest, rate or time using the standard compound interest formula A = P(1 + r/n)^nt. Calculate compound interest on an investment or savings. Compound interest formulas to find principal, interest rates or final investment value including continuous compounding A = Pe^rt.

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Hi and welcome. A couple of items before you get started:

1. You can't use decimals here, except in the percentage fields. They won't "take." Round to dollars.

2. If you let this sit for a while, the server will clear your entries. So if you have to walk away, you should grab a screen shot first, print, or download the data so you can pull it into a spreadsheet.

What's your exposure? With so many variables, comparing health insurance plans can be really hard. What will they pay and what will they cost when you actually use them?

This calculator's especially good at helping you rule out the bad deals and focus on the better ones. Enter premiums (after subsidies) and other values for the plans you're considering, then roll over the lines in the graph to see your total outlays.

An example of how to use this: Why would anyone buy the purple plan here for an extra thousand dollars a year, instead of the green plan, which offers the same or better financial protection? Turn off the blue and orange checkboxes to see that comparison clearly, and zoom the X axis to get a close-up look at how more-typical healthy years will play out.

A note on zero-percent coinsurance. If you enter zero for the coinsurance percentage (the share you pay after you've spent the deductible limit, until you hit the out-of-pocket limit), the graph will show you never paying more than the deductible - never getting to the OOP. But some things in your plan probably aren't 0% coinsurance. You will pay more, even after your deductible. So: If your plan has 0% coinsurance, still, enter some percentage - 10% or whatever - in this field to see your actual annual out-of-pocket exposure on the graph.

Things to Consider When Using This App

Copays and coinsurance. Best bet is to enter the plan's coinsurance percentage for hospitalization, since that is your greatest financial exposure.

Many plans have fixed (generally low) co-pay amounts instead of percentage "co-insurance" for many services, even before you reach your deductible. There's no way to display that without you entering how many visits, lab tests, etc. you might have. (Gets way too complicated.) Enter your plan's percent coinsurance, and figure your outlays will be somewhat lower than what you see above because of the low fixed copays for office visits etc.

Extra deductibles and copays. Your total outlays shown above do not include additional amounts you might spend due to some plans' extra copays and deductibles for emergency/urgent care, doctor visits, drugs, etc.

Most plans don't have these extras, they vary a lot between plans, and are usually small when they do exist. But sometimes they're quite significant. If a plan has high exceptions like this, they could significantly increase your spending beyond what you see above (the relative significance would be higher in "normal," relatively healthy years shown in the lower-left of the graph). In most cases these extra charges count towards your annual out-of-pocket limit, so they don't affect the "worst case" (upper-right) outlay scenario. But check each plan carefully for these kind of "gotchas."

Out-of-network spending. If you expect to get all your care from in-network providers ("preferred" providers who are contracted with your insurer), you can skip entering out-of-network information, and ignore the out-of-network lines on the graph.

Out-of-network spending is mostly significant in worst-case situations - some special injury or illness for which you need a specialized clinic or doctor that is not in your insurer's network. (i.e. You need to fly to the Mayo Clinic or some such for a special cancer treatment.)

Traditionally, out-of-network charges have been more of an issue for rural dwellers who might need to travel to get care, but insurers are paring their networks severely these days, even in urban centers.

Some plans have no out-of-pocket limit on out-of-network payments: In some you're responsible for unlimited percentage copays, while in others (Exclusive Provider Organizations or EPOs, and many perhaps most HMOs) there's no out-of-network coverage at all; you pay for everything. These plans will usually save you money on premiums; you have to decide whether that savings is worth the (perhaps unlikely) risk of needing an out-of-network provider. The risks: 1. You'll have to pay for the provider; 2. You'll have to decide whether to pay for the provider.

National and multi-state provider networks. Some insurance plans are contracted with large national networks of providers, so you can pay in-network even for providers in other cities and regions. (Most plans do cover out-of-state emergencies.) Others offer in-network coverage in two states at once for people who have two residences. This may be important, for instance, for families in which one member is out of state - a child at college, for instance.

Family vs. Individual. Most family plans have individual and family deductibles and out-of-pocket limits. (Family is often twice the individual amount.) This can make it hard to evaluate your exposure and compare plans. To best judge your worst-case financial exposure - what happens if two of you get really sick - enter the family deductible and OOP amounts in the calculator rather than the individual amounts. This worst-case two-illness scenario is less likely to occur, of course, but the financial hit can be serious if it does.

Drug Costs. Some plans just include drug spending in the normal deductible, copay, and out-of-pocket totals. But different plans' drug provisions vary wildly. As with normal coverage, watch out for big upside gotchas that could result in a bad financial hit if you need expensive drugs for a long period. Some plans only cover generic drugs (which tend to be cheap in any case so why not just pay for them yourself?), but don't cover more expensive (often wildly more expensive) brand-name drugs that you may need.

Uncovered spending. Some things just aren't covered. Read your plan's Benefit Summary carefully to judge your exposure if you think you might feel the need for those services.

Read the limitations and exclusions. These are usually not included on the Summary of Benefits; you have to ask for them specifically. For instance, some plans don't cover injuries incurred when you're intoxicated or high - or your child is. (This exclusion is illegal in many states.) This could result in some very nasty financial surprises, if they decide to enforce these provisions when a big bill comes in.

Bottom Line. Insurers don't sell you insurance because they're losing money on it. As in casinos (you are placing a bet here), the house always takes a cut. Rolling over the left side of the graph, you'll see that in healthy years you spend more than you would if you just paid for health care yourself. (Though you wouldn't have the insurer's bargaining power/network price markdowns working for you.) That's the cost of protecting yourself against worst-case years.

So if you buy "cadillac" plans that pay for everything (and pay the high premiums that go with those plans), your insurer takes a cut on everything. Over the course of your life, the odds are you'll spend more in total premiums plus out-of-pocket costs.

The lesson: buy the lowest-premium insurance you can find that protects you from spending levels that could significantly damage your savings, your life, and your lifestyle. You have to decide whether the savings on premiums during healthy years (and the additional personal savings you can but might not sock away as a result) make a low-cost plan sensible and worthwhile.

Ah but there are always more exceptions, aren't there? Here are two:

* There's another advantage to more-expensive pay-everything plans: you know more accurately how much you'll spend each year. You pay extra for that certainty. That may be worth it to you.

* Under the ACA provisions, insurers can't charge you more in premiums because you have a pre-existing condition. If you know that you'll have significant health expenses in coming years, a higher-premium pay-everything plan may result in lower total outlays for you. If you buy a cheap plan with high deductible and OOP limits, you might get hit hard in one year, but if those charges are going to continue, you'll be able to shift to a pay-everything plan in ensuing years. The graph above can help you judge those tradeoffs.

Hot tip: If you're shopping for an individual plan and your income's low enough that you're eligible for a subsidy, check out the silver plans. There's an additional, hidden "Cost Savings Reduction" subsidy for those plans. It doesn't show as a reduced premium; rather, you pay the same premium as higher-income people do, but get a lower deductible and/or out-of-pocket limit based on your income level. It's a deal. There's significant savings to be had here.

Finally: Best wishes for a healthy and prosperous life for you and your family!
To download the data behind the graph:
When you enter values, the app builds a data table and graphs it. If you'd like to mess with the data in a spreadsheet or some such, or just save it for later, here's how:

1. Click the Data Table tab at the top.

2. Click the arrow icon at the bottom of the data table and choose Data from the popup menu.

3. Click "Download all rows as a text file."
About me and this page:
This page was created by me, Steve Roth. I built a spreadsheet to do this analysis for myself years ago, and then hired a very talented fellow to build it out into this web app. Full disclosure: if this page attracts a decent amount of traffic, I'm hoping to post some ads and make some money. But to that end, I've just tried to provide the most useful app and information I can.

The information and analysis on this site is provided free to anyone on the internet who stumbles across it. You should evaluate it with the same care that you would any internet (or other) information. While great effort has been expended to make the information and arithmetic here accurate and useful, there is no warranty or guarantee, implicit or explicit. This page and this app are not the work of an insurance or health-care professional. It's not professional advice, and you are solely responsible for reviewing and using it with care and judgment.

Comments and questions are welcome! Write me at: info at health-plan-compare dot com.

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Health Insurance Plan Comparison Calculator

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Hi and welcome. A couple of items before you get started: 1. You can't use decimals here, except in the percentage fields. They won't "take." Round to dollars. 2. If you let this sit for a while, the server will clear your entries.

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Cost of Renting vs. Cost of Buying

When to Rent vs. Buy

Determining whether to buy or rent your home involves a complex decision-making process. The SmartAsset rent vs. buy calculator helps you see when you'll reach your break-even point and integrates some of the following questions to help you make an informed choice:

How long do you plan on staying in an area?

How much flexibility do you enjoy?

Are you prepared for the responsibility of homeownership?

Perhaps the most important factor to consider when making this buy or rent decision is how long you plan to stay in your home. If you'll only be in town a year, renting will almost always be your best choice. In that scenario, if you're planning to pack up and leave in the short term, you probably don't want to spend the time and money necessary to buy a house, with a down payment, closing costs, loan charges, appraisal fees and so on.

All told, the upfront costs of finding a house and taking out a mortgage can be in the tens of thousands of dollars (or higher). As a renter, by contrast, you'll likely just have to pay an application fee, fork over a broker's fee and make a refundable security deposit of a few months' rent.

On the other hand, if you plan on staying put for 50 years, renting could be more expensive than buying over that time frame. In the long run, there are significant advantages to homeownership. You'll own property, which you can later sell, rent out or pass on to family members down the line. Another possible advantage is mortgage interest deduction, a tax benefit that allows you to deduct mortgage interest payments from your taxable income. This requires filing itemized taxes and is only beneficial if the interest deduction totals more than the standard deduction.

Rental payments, by contrast, have no such advantages. While a portion of each mortgage payment goes toward raising your stake in your home by increasing your equity, rental payments go entirely to your landlord and tend to grow over time as rental prices increase. In the long run, the costs of renting can be much higher than buying.

Of course, renters don't have to pay property taxes, homeowners insurance or maintenance costs. Those costs can really add up. In some areas of the country, like New Jersey and Westchester County, New York, property taxes are so high they cost the same as at least one or two extra mortgage payments per year.

So if renting is better in the short-term and buying is better in the long-run, when does the financial logic switch? When, in other words, do the long-run costs of renting begin to outweigh the upfront costs of buying? This is known as the breakeven year. It could be three years, or seven or 15. The timing depends largely on where you live. That's why our rent vs. buy calculator is location-based.

Rent or Buy Comparison

Photo credit: © iStock/eccolo74

Of course, while analyses like the above assume you are making your decision for purely economic reasons, there are other, non-financial factors you may want to consider as well.

Many renters, for example, enjoy the flexibility of being able to change apartments and neighborhoods at the end of their lease. If you no longer like the area you live in or have to move for a job, renting makes life much simpler.

As a homeowner, if you want to move, there are quite a few hoops to jump through, such as:

Finding a real estate agent

Getting the house listed (which means professional photos, filling out a seller's disclosure and possibly handling home repairs)

Navigating offers and negotiations

Paying a number of fees to close the sale

Completing this can take months and really add up. Sometimes you don't have the luxury of waiting until your house sells to move, which is another headache you avoid as a renter.

On the other hand, buying a home gives you year-to-year continuity. In some areas of the U.S., rent prices can change drastically over the course of just a few years. What may have fit your budget a year ago might not now if your landlord hikes the rent when it's time to renew.

As a homeowner, you won't face any spikes in your payment (adjustable-rate mortgages are one exception). But then we come to the question of maintenance. Fixing leaky pipes, painting, cleaning gutters - these are all costs of owning a home. As a renter, most of those issues are the responsibility of maintenance personnel or your landlord.

That said, many renters complain of unresponsive landlords who refuse to deal with things like bad plumbing or a faulty fridge. These are matters of personal preference - do you like fixing your home or do you prefer others to take care of it? It'll come down to your personal preferences as well as what your current and projected housing needs dictate.

The Background Behind the Shift from Homeownership to Renting

For a long time, the common wisdom was that buying a home was a far better financial choice than renting one. As home prices across much of the country marched upward during the 20th century, a house was considered the safest investment around.

The logic was simple: if you were spending 30% of your income on housing, you might as well spend that hard-earned cash on something that would retain its value for you in the future. Renting, by contrast, was wasteful. The rent vs. buy decision traditionally was a straightforward one.

That all changed in 2007 when the housing bubble popped. A house, it turned out, could lose value - and, as some real-life cases demonstrated, could do so in spectacular fashion. There were stories of totally abandoned neighborhoods outside of Las Vegas and half-constructed mansions in Florida.

Those with the misfortune to buy at the peak of the market in 2006 lost thousands or even millions of dollars overnight. Mortgages went underwater and foreclosures skyrocketed. The housing bubble led to a financial crisis that affected not only home values, but also jobs and the economy at large. If you were a renter during this time, you probably had it easier. Rather than dealing with a fatal blow to your home's value, or even foreclosure, you had the flexibility to downsize apartments if you needed to tighten your budget or even move to somewhere with a more affordable cost of living.

Today, there is no clear answer to the rent vs. buy question. In some cities, and for some individuals, buying a home may make more sense, while for others, renting a home may be the better choice. This makes it even more important to run the numbers and see what is best for you and your family.

Bottom Line

In the end, the rent vs. buy decision comes down to your preferences, plans and personal finances. If you know exactly how long you want to stay in your home and where you want to live, and you have some money saved up, the decision could be as easy as calculating which option will cost you less. If your future is less clear, however, you may have more to consider.

How Long You Have to Live in America's Biggest Cities for Buying to Make Sense

May 1, 2015

Housing markets in major cities are often far more competitive than those in small towns or rural areas. That affects the rent vs. buy decision, as potential homebuyers in metros frequently face significantly higher prices, fees and closing costs. Those high upfront costs can mean that it only makes sense to buy for homeowners who are willing to stay put for a longer timeframe.

With that in mind, SmartAsset took a closer look at the data on renting and buying in the largest U.S. markets. We determined the breakeven point, the time it would take for a homeowner to recuperate those upfront costs of buying a home. (For more on our methodology, check here.)

Developments like the boom in tech jobs and increased migration to sunny West Coast cities have shifted housing economics towards renting in some parts of the country, while in other areas, like the South and Texas, buying is still usually the better bet.

New York City

New York: 18.3 years (to recuperate costs of buying)

The Big Apple's housing market is notoriously competitive, and indeed, SmartAsset's research shows it is the worst urban market for homebuyers in the country. Good deals are nearly impossible to come by and when an attractive option appears on the market, it is often snapped up in days if not hours. That competition bids up prices, which means homes are comparatively more expensive than rentals. The typical New Yorker would need to stay in her home more than 18 years to justify buying instead of renting.

The Tech Hubs

The boom in high technology over the past few years has generally been concentrated in a relatively small number of cities. It has been especially pronounced in the Bay Area and in Seattle. The growth in high-paying tech jobs in these cities has had profound consequences on their homebuying markets.

In these three cities buying a home only makes financial sense for those who can stay put for at least 14 years (on average). Take note, however, of rising rents. If rents in these cities continue to increase over the next few years, buying may become a more sensible medium-term option for those who have the cash to cover closing costs and a down-payment.

The Sunny West Coast

In these four western cities, the weather is great, populations are growing quickly, and renting usually beats buying. Average home prices in these cities aren't quite as high as in the tech hubs or New York, but they are still outside the range most residents would consider affordable. On average, homebuyers in these cities recuperate the costs of buying (instead of renting) after 8 to 11 years.

Portland

As usual, this Oregon city defies categorization. It hasn't experienced the boom in tech jobs of its neighbors to the north (Seattle) and south (San Francisco), and the weather in Portland isn't the draw that is in other Western cities. Yet, the average home in Multnomah County costs over $315,000 (50% more than the U.S. average) and population growth has been steady. Those factors place Portland in a middle ground between buying and renting: for the average Portlander, buying makes sense if she plans on staying put for seven years or more.

Old Money

D.C. and Boston have historically been among the most expensive housing markets in the country. In these cities, high up-front costs tilt the economic logic away from homebuying for residents who may plan to move around in the near future (recent graduates, for example). But residents who are settling down for the long-term (like more than 6.5 years) could be better off buying.

The Wild West

These three western cities are experiencing strong population growth, which has put some upward pressure on home prices. In these cities, residents who are comfortable staying in one place for the medium- or long-term should at least consider buying. On average, they will recuperate the high up-front costs of purchasing (instead of renting) in five to six years.

The Midwest

Especially compared to the west and the northeast, buying and renting in the Midwest are both relatively affordable-but because homeownership also increases a person's net worth over time, buying often makes more sense in the medium- and long-term. The average homebuyer in one of these Midwestern cities should recuperate the upfront costs of closing on a home in just over four years.

Texas and the South

Traditionally the most affordable parts of the country (for homebuyers), Texas and the south lived up to their reputation in our analysis. In every major southern or Texan city we examined, the average resident would recuperate the up-front costs of homebuying within just four and a half years of closing. After that, the savings would begin to accumulate.

Philadelphia and Detroit

These two cities buck all the trends. Both have seen their populations fall in absolute terms in the past 50 years (Philly's by 25% and Detroit's by 50%). The result is a housing supply far larger than demand, and, in turn, bargain basement prices. On average, a resident of either of these cities should only stay in a rental if she might be moving in the next 3 years.

Rent vs. Buy: The Best Places to Own a Home

Rank

County

Avg. Monthly Mortgage Payment

Avg. Monthly Rent

Avg. Home Price

Breakeven Year

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Rent vs. Buy Calculator - Is it Better to Rent or Buy? | SmartAsset.com

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Our free calculator helps you decide whether you should buy or rent. Compare the costs of buying and renting to see which makes the most sense for you.

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Calculate weighted percentage and letter grades.

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Paying off credit card debt can help you save money on interest and improve your overall financial well-being. Whether you have just one credit card or many, you can use this calculator to figure out how long it'll take to pay off your debt and how much interest it'll cost you.

How to Use This Calculator

For each credit card you have, enter the current balance, the annual percentage rate (APR) and your monthly payment. When you enter the balance and APR, an estimated minimum payment will automatically show up in the third field, but you can change it based on your actual payment amount.

When you click the Calculate button, you'll see several things to help inform your debt payoff strategy, including:

The month and year you'll be debt-free

The number of payments you'll need to make

Total interest you'll pay

Total payment amount, including interest and principal

You can also click on the Payment Schedule tab to see exactly how much of each payment will go toward interest and how much will go toward paying down your balance.

Remember, you can add multiple credit cards to the calculator. And as you define your strategy for eliminating credit card debt, you can enter different payment amounts to see how much time and money you'll save.

How to Pay Off Credit Card Debt

Depending on your situation, you may have several different options to pay off your credit card debt. If you're not planning to consolidate your credit card balances (see below for more), there are two approaches you can use: the debt snowball method and the debt avalanche method.

The debt snowball method involves making just the minimum payments on all of your credit cards except for the one with the lowest balance. Take any extra money you have to put toward your debt every month, and apply it to that card.

Once that card is paid off, you'll take the monthly payment you were putting toward it and apply that to the card with the next-lowest balance (on top of its minimum monthly payment). You'll continue that same strategy until all of your balances are paid off.

The debt avalanche method works similarly, but instead of targeting cards based on their balance, you'll work on paying off the cards with the highest interest rates first.

Neither method is inherently better than the other, so choose the right one for you based on your goals and preferences. With the debt snowball method, for instance, you'll be guaranteed to pay off smaller balances first, which can give you the wins you need to keep your motivation going.

With the debt avalanche method, focusing on higher interest rates first could save you more money on interest charges. Depending on the makeup of your credit card debt, however, those savings may not be much higher than what you'd achieve with the debt snowball approach.

How Does Credit Card Debt Consolidation Work?

If your credit score is in good shape, debt consolidation may be an excellent way to pay off your debt faster and save money along the way.

Consolidating credit card debt involves paying off your existing debt with a new credit card or personal loan, preferably with better terms. Here's a breakdown of how each debt consolidation option works:

Balance transfer credit cards: With a balance transfer credit card, you can transfer debt from one or more existing cards to a new one. Many balance transfer cards offer an introductory 0% APR promotion, which means you can pay off your debt interest-free during the promotional period. Some of these cards charge an upfront fee of up to 5% of the transfer amount, but that may be worth it for the interest savings.

Personal loans: You can use personal loans for just about anything, including debt consolidation. On average, personal loans charge lower interest rates than credit cards, and you may be able to get a rate in the single digits if your credit is excellent. Personal loans also offer the benefit of set repayment terms instead of just giving you a minimum payment.

Regardless of which option you choose, it's important to avoid racking up balances on your paid-off credit cards-otherwise, you could end up in an even more difficult financial situation.

How Does Credit Card Debt Impact Your Credit Score?

Your credit utilization rate -the percentage of your available credit that you're using at any given time-is an important indicator of how you manage debt. As a result, it's one of the major factors that help determine your credit score.

If you're bumping up against your credit limits, it could be damaging your score considerably. In other words, paying off your credit card debt can improve your credit and your overall financial well-being.

As you work on paying down your debt, make sure to check your credit score regularly to keep track of your progress. This practice can also help you spot other areas of your credit history that you can address to increase your credit score.

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Credit Card Payoff Calculator - Experian

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Paying off credit card debt can help you save money on interest and improve your overall financial well-being. Whether you have just one credit card or many, you can use this calculator to figure out how long it'll take to pay off your debt and how much interest it'll cost you.

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Please take a moment to complete this brief (2-3 minute) survey so I can get to know you!

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Come to class/watch the recordings - you are more likely to gain a better understand of the content when you interact with it!

Work through the lessons AND assessments WITH the guided notes and/or completed guided notes!

Stay up-to-date on assignments & lessons - if you start to fall behind please contact me ASAP for assistance!

Ask questions - this course is full of valuable real-life information, so if you don't understand a topic please reach out for help!

Complete the projects/assignments - each unit will have at least one assignment/project and these are worth a decent portion of your grade but don't stress...we will go over all aspects of these tasks in the guided lesson!

You can ALWAYS use a calculator! :)

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Projects can be resubmitted through webmail for full credit once corrections are made OR you can ask for a reset!

Assessment text/open-ended questions corrections: For full credit - in a word document provide the following information:

1. Identify the assessment and question number.

2. Provide an explanation of how your answer was incorrect.

3. Complete the question correctly, including all necessary work.

All other assessment question corrections (multiple choice, matching, ect): In a word document that has the assessment name and question numbers, please complete one of the following options:

1. For half-credit: provide the correct answer and why your answer was incorrect.

2. For Full credit: Create a similar question and answer it correctly.

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Consumer Math Learning Coach Guide (For Caretakers & LCs)

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Consumer Math Learning Coach Guide (For Caretakers & LCs)

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Calculate the Value of Your Paper Savings Bond(s)