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In 2021, actor-turned-entrepreneur Kylo Freeman logged onto Discord to ask and people to dish out their experiences of wearing binders and what might make the perfect design. After combing through hundreds of messages sharing that DIY binders made from first-aid kit bandages were unsafe, and that more readily available options were "uncomfortable, painful, and itchy" - plus taking their own past experiences of wearing binders into account - Freeman launched : an community space, providing healthy, inclusive, and sustainable binders for anyone who wears them.

"The community shouldn't have to choose between gender euphoria and safety... I knew [they] needed something better, so I built it," Freeman explains. "As I interviewed folks in the binder development process, it became clear that the community was under-served across the board." Compiling the feedback into their designs, For Them now boasts a 14-piece collection of binders with a range of compression capabilities and sizes, all of which are made from 100 per cent recycled fabric.

"Compression tops in the past have often been rigid, dig in weird places, roll up, or don't go far enough down, so solving those problems was the first step," continues Freeman. "We wanted to create a design that compressed and achieved the flat chest look folks were looking for, without undermining movement or breath. This was a very technical pattern challenge which we overcame and patented." Importantly, "We also wanted the pattern and finishes to be hot so people could proudly show their binders if they wanted," they add.

With that in mind, For Them's first-ever binder offers breathable compression, anti-itch, sweat-resistant fabric that won't dig under your arms, and the freedom to wear all day long - which is a big leap away from the shorter safe-wearing times binders configured from bandages offer. Elsewhere, For Them's newest release, The Binder Max, is developed with more compression and higher necklines based on feedback from customers [the company operates on a "you ask, we listen" business model, says Freeman]. This one can be worn for four to six hours at a time for maximum coverage. Both designs are reversible and come in a wide-range of colour options to match each customer's personal style.

Besides setting out to create elevated binders, Freeman created their designs to be inclusive of everyone in the community. "Binding is for everyone and anyone who wants to wear a compression top," acknowledges Freeman. "Too often, folks see binders as a product only for pre-op transmasculine folks, but folks of many identities enjoy wearing them for many reasons. Post-op transmasculine people wear binders as a solution for swelling, cis-gender people wear binders as a comfortable alternative to a bra or if they want chest flattening."

Taking this into account, For Them offers a size range from 22 to 68 inches around the fullest part of the chest and uses soft fabric for those who might have sensory sensitivities. For those using binders for the first time, For Them also provides in-depth guides on measuring your chest size, advice for safe binding, and ships its products in discreet packaging.

"Too often, folks see binders as a product only for pre-op transmasculine folks, but folks of many identities enjoy wearing them for many reasons" - Kylo Freeman

"I have no binder endurance, but I just found one that I can wear for eight hours," one customer shared, reviewing For Them's binders on TikTok . "It has a really wide neck-line which gives me a lot of options for crazy clothes that I can wear." Elsewhere, another user shared their OOTD on TikTok - using The Binder as a crop-top, paired with high-waisted jeans and layered-up necklaces. "I wear them for four to five hours very comfortably as someone with asthma," they explained.

Expanding its resources far beyond Binders, For Them has recently launched The Playground - a members-only platform, providing LGBTQ+ wellness tools like its gender-tracking app [which allows users to log their daily moods and gender evolutions], access to For Them's close friends Instagram stories, exclusive product drops and discounts, and a place for users to find community IRL and URL via the brand's discord and events. As a zero-cost option, the site also contains a free selection of articles exploring queer topics that often aren't discussed within traditional media - from managing chest dysphoria to using birth control while on testosterone , and setting boundaries with family during the holidays .

"We sold 40,000 units of the original Binder, so we knew building products for queer and trans wellness through our lens was needed," says Freeman. "It became clear in the candid feedback and asks we received from our community that this was just the tip of the iceberg of their under-served needs."

They add: "Setting off on this mission to build the gender tech folks need to have their wellness journey supported like their cis-het counterparts - that was a big moment. More than just a feedback loop for product needs and app functionality for the queer community, [it's] queer revolution in action."

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For Them is the LGBTQ+ label designing inclusive binders for all-day wear

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The result of extensive community-based research on what makes the perfect binder, Kylo Freeman's label provides size-inclusive, safe-to-wear styles for anyone who wants to wear them

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Tasks that need to be completed to get to my aim

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Transferable skills

Employability skills

Work independently

Set goals

Respond to change

Effectively communicate

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Demonstrate effective approach in project management independently

Demonstrate time management and action planning. Adapting for unseen circumstances and communicating revisions to your plan as appropriate.

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Specifics: Achieve 2:1/1:1

Measurable

Achievable

Realistic

Timely

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2023 rank 61Annual sales growth over three years 70.45%Underwear brandThe husband-and-wife team Daniel, 31, and Melanie Marsden, 30, started this underwear reta

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Primary & Secondary

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Lounge Underwear sales up as profits fall

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Lounge Underwear has reported a 6% year on year increase in sales and a 33% decline in profit before tax for the 12 months to 30 June 2023, as a result of its investment into store expansion.

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Lana Del Rey collaboration with H&M. The original idea for my FMP was to create a collection for the musical artist Lana Del Rey, in collaboration with H&M. The collection would be an improvement of the current products available on Lana Del Rey website. The current products dont appeal to fans/customers due to them not fitting within Lanas aesthetic and they just look like a money grab/ clothing made without consideration. The collection would of appealed to her demographic, in terms of style and affordability of the products within the collection.

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Shifting attitudes to gender and sexuality

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Testing peoples attitudes on sexuality and gender, with primary research (surveys etc)

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Provides a in depth insights into consumer behavior and cultural patterns. The description of people and cultures with their customs, habits and mutual differences.

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Socially conscious fashion entrepreneurs in the twenty-first century built many of the first visibly queer- and trans-focused fashion brands. In this paper, we critically examine nine of these brands that produced and distributed undergarments or other objects worn near or against the skin, such as binders, packers, underwear, lingerie, and bras. We draw upon oral histories with the brand directors, objects from each company, news articles, and online content. The brands emerged during significant socio-cultural and political changes and simultaneously engaged in dismantling and queering the past oppressive notions of the fashion industry. Unlike mainstream representation that often has positioned fashionable queer people as thin, cisgender, and white, these brands embraced an intersectional and social-justice lens throughout their business processes. The history of these brands demonstrates the interconnected complexity of fashioning queer and trans identities, fashion commodities, and fashion activist philosophies in the twenty-first-century capitalist marketplace.

Public and mainstream visibility of the queer and trans communities has changed significantly over the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, in part due to legislation affecting queer and trans persons, such as the legalization of gay marriage and governmental recognition of trans identities. Alongside political activists advocating for queer and trans rights, fashion entrepreneurs in the early part of the twenty-first century also took action: they created space in the fashion industry for members of the queer and trans communities to affirm and empower their identities by building some of the first visibly queer- and trans-focused fashion brands or retail stores. For example, companies such as The Gap have subtly targeted queer consumers, which scholars often describe as gay-window advertising. We use the term "visibly" to mean brands or retailers overtly targeting the queer and trans communities in their mission, advertising, and product offerings. In this paper, we critically examine nine of these brands and retailers and their founders, owners, or directors in the context of the broader queer social movements in the United States; we also consider the capitalist economy in which they are operating as this is intricately connected to ambivalence negotiation processes via dress in social interactions.

Focusing on these brands and objects allows us to disentangle and entangle the intimate embodied practices of the queer and trans communities, their evolving identities, and the free-market capitalist economy. The objects provide space to create ongoing and evolving meanings for queer and trans bodies through everyday tactile experiences against the skin. The objects are used to reveal and conceal identities strategically, subconsciously, and simultaneously. For some people, secondary sex characteristics and genitalia are closely linked to gender expression. The brands' commercial products are literally situated against or very close to the fleshy body and sometimes mold and shift the shape of the body into a desired aesthetic to affirm and empower their gender and sexual identities. Chest binders, for example, can help a wearer feel gender euphoric, despite the potential for negative health effects. Entwistle writes, "it is through our bodies that we come to see and be seen in the world." The space these objects occupy near the body often can contribute to an "epidermic self-awareness," that is, particularly in the case of queer and trans, the physical sensation of what they wear alters how they see themselves and how others see their bodies. While these objects represent a form of social activism, they also are commodities that "stimulate consumer demand" within the capitalist marketplace. Many of these products cost between twenty and sixty dollars each, so they may be economically out of reach for trans people, who are four times more likely to live in extreme poverty, and for lesbians, who typically make twelve percent less than heterosexual women. Therefore, these "appearance-modifying commodities" together with capitalism and social interactions create ongoing symbolic ambiguity or the "potential for multiple meanings" that are continually emerging. In our work, we focus on the marketplace perspective that assists in generating these identity-negotiation processes.

To obtain a rich history of each company and their respective director(s), we used the oral history method with a life-history approach ( FIGURE 1). As feminist scholars, we chose to follow feminist oral-history research methods to document hidden stories and center the directors' voices in their history-making. When interviewing the directors of the nine companies, we prompted them to use storytelling, a key component of oral history, to share the history of their company starting from when the idea initially came and how their own personal-life history connected to how and why they started or became involved with the company. In either an in-person or video-chat interview, we asked thirty-five questions on topics including: the interviewee's personal background and history including their personal style and experiences with clothing and shopping; start of the brand; company overview; design, production, and buying processes; business challenges and successes; feedback from consumers; funding strategies; marketing considerations; ethics; and lastly, consumer profiles and experiences. In TABLE 1, we outline the date, length, location, and interviewee for each oral history that we discuss in this research. To enhance trustworthiness of our work and the collaborative process between us, the researchers, and our interviewees, we asked each interviewee to check their oral history transcript for accuracy, edit content as needed, and approve the transcript before publishing in the digital repository: 21st Century Queer Fashion Brands: An Oral History Project. We then used the grounded theory open, axial, and selective analysis process to examine the oral history transcripts. In our analysis, we also draw upon objects from each company, news articles, and other digital content, such as YouTube videos or social-media posts. Overall, we examine how the brands emerged and sustained themselves during significant socio-cultural changes and simultaneously engaged in dismantling and queering the past oppressive, hegemonic notions of the fashion industry.

Visibly Queer- and Trans-Fashion Brands and Retailers in the Twenty-First Century

Fashioning Queer and Trans Identities

Despite the long-standing oppression faced by the queer and trans communities, these individuals fashion their identities through unique aesthetics of dress. These aesthetics often push gender boundaries about gender presentation. For example, women in same-gender relationships have dressed in a masculine-leaning style since at least the late nineteenth century. Contemporary masculine styles, often referred to as butch, frequently include flat shoes, tattoos, piercings, minimal makeup, short or alternative haircuts, unnatural hair colors, and masculine clothing and accessories. Alternatively, feminine-leaning lesbians, often referred to as femme, more commonly have longer hair, wear makeup, and choose more feminine clothing, shoes, and accessories. Femme lesbians sometimes are considered not "queer enough" within the queer community. The gay-male community has experienced similar tensions between presenting masculine or feminine. Many of the aesthetics they employed were subversively feminized; however, by the end of the 1970s when the Gay Liberation Front wanted to be taken more seriously, activists denounced feminine-gay men and drag queens, leading to the gay-male "clone" masculine look. Bisexual people, too, experienced unique relationships with fashion. Some bisexual people wanted to appear visible to combat bisexual erasure and sometimes used terms such as "androgyny" to describe their style when they adopted masculine-leaning aesthetics.

The Queer and Trans Brands' Beginnings

The directors' personal histories and involvement in the queer and trans communities were arguably one of the central motivations to start their brands, whether they self-identified as lesbian women (e.g., Krakauer, Sugar, Kadlec, Dunaway, Gonzalez, Deysach, Courtney Rhodes), trans and gender non-conforming (Cubacub, Leifer, Dominique, Chris Rhodes, and Washington), or "having sex with people they are attracted to" (Honig). At the time of their founding between 2011 and 2016 ( FIGURE 2), most of the directors could not find undergarments that fit their desired gender expression as queer and trans people or others in these communities who experienced similar issues. For example, Marli Washington, founder of gc2b, started his binder company, because "I knew I needed this, so I made it. I knew that other people could use it too." Washington, who is a Latinx and Black trans man, defined the company's mission, which is to provide "accessible, comfortable, and safe binding options designed by trans people, for trans people," which highlights the importance of centering trans identities throughout the business model. "By trans people, for trans people" reflects similar sentiments to the revolutionary Black-owned fashion brands from the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s; for example, gc2b's mission almost directly reflects philosophies of the urban hip-hop brand FUBU (for us by us). At the same time Black-owned brands such as FUBU, Karl Kani, and Cross Colours emerged, white-owned brands such as Tommy Hilfiger received significant criticism for capitalizing on Black people and perpetuating white supremacy. Washington appeared to understand these types of tensions rooted in privilege and overtly proclaimed transness as core to the business.

Some of the founders had romantic partners who experienced difficulty finding underwear that achieved both their desired fit and aesthetic. Lindsay Krakauer, a feminine-appearing lesbian and founder of Let's Be Brief, said:

I dated a lot of people that were in the trans community and a lot of people that were born more female-bodied but wanted to have something that was a little masculine, or a boxer-brief. And really there was like nothing on the market.

Krakauer's intimate experiences with folks in the queer and trans communities as an openly lesbian cisgender woman in many ways provided her with the credibility to connect with and gain trust from her customers.

Peregrine Honig, a cisgender woman, had a different experience starting her trans and gender non-conforming business. Honig's platonic friendship with a person who was transitioning genders inspired Honig to create her binder brand All is Fair in Love and Wear. She explained, "What was available to him at the time was not high quality or in the context of what he was looking for. It was not for a trans body." Honig was already operating Birdies, a successful brick-and-mortar lingerie store in Kansas City, Missouri; therefore, she was familiar with small-business operations and used her previous skills and knowledge to develop her new brand. However, she received criticism due to her privilege as a cisgender woman founding a trans-focused company. To avoid the label of tokenism, she eventually sought out trans leadership. She appointed Christian Dominique, an "ante trans" person of color, as creative director who eventually became the face of the brand. Dominique's identity provided more credibility for the brand, and fewer people accused Honig of wrongfully capitalizing on trans people or engaging in what crits describe as "interest convergence." Since the addition of Dominique to the team and their public announcement on their website and social media ( FIGURE 3), customers have responded more favorably to the brand. Honig also was conscious of stigma associated with the perception of the Midwest as backwards and lacking fashionability. All is Fair is the only brand located outside of a major city (e.g., New York, Chicago) or a mid-sized city with a "gayborhood" (e.g., Seattle, Austin). Public association of queerness, transness, and fashionability with the East and West Coasts of the US made Honig wary of identifying her company as "Midwest," fearing that it would appear unauthentic.

Most of the brand directors did not have backgrounds in fashion or an initial desire to work in the industry. Their work histories varied: for example, Kadlec (Bluestockings Boutique) was a PhD student in literature, Chris and Courtney Rhodes (FLAVNT Streetwear) worked in graphic design, Krakauer (Let's Be Brief) worked in healthcare management, and Washington (gc2b) studied industrial design. Cubacub highlighted how, even though they had only brief experiences in the fashion industry, because of the Internet, "There's so much accessibility, you can start your line now, you don't have to wait, and you don't have to have all this experience. And I feel like most of those experiences only tarnish you." Cubacub also related that the fashion classes they were taking in art school were rooted in white supremacy, ableism, transphobia, and homophobia, causing them to switch majors.

Queering Products

Despite many of the directors having backgrounds outside of the fashion business, they filled the need for queer products in the marketplace. Finding clothing that affirms queer or trans identities is one part of performing gender, as gender is a not a static, ahistorical trait but an ongoing series of actions directed towards achieving desired gender roles. How individuals "do" gender is constantly negotiated and informed by our social interactions in addition to the availability of commodities or the ability to engage with informal economies. Clothing, which contains a myriad of gender codes, and our interactions with clothing are integral parts of gender-negotiation processes. Many of the products now offered by these queer brands have historically been unavailable commercially because they would have subverted normative-gender appearances. Thus, previous and current consumers have utilized DIY practices to negotiate these ambivalences. For example, in Feinberg's 1990 seminal work, Stone Butch Blues, the main character discusses use of a stuffed sock in the 1950s to simulate a modern packer. Additionally, numerous DIY videos are currently available on YouTube in which content creators share knowledge on making homemade queer and trans gear.

The brand directors addressed the unmet queer- and trans-fashion market needs by queering existing products. Gonzalez's (TomboyX) customers requested boxer briefs for women; therefore, the brand launched an underwear line with masculine silhouettes, stemming from butch style, that fit people with varying genital anatomy. For example, the "6' fly" ( FIGURE 4), one of their popular items, features a nonfunctioning fly with real buttons, front panels that are smaller than those in men's underwear, and a six-inch inseam, which is longer than most underwear marketed to people assigned female at birth. They also sell a boxer brief with a nine-inch inseam marketed as "fit-tested on all body types, sizes XS-4X" ( FIGURE 5).

Even though these products were queered, not all of these brands' customers identified as queer or trans. Dunaway explained that TomboyX has "function first" customers, such as firefighters, police officers, medical workers, or military personnel because longer underwear styles can be more comfortable to wear under loose-fitting uniforms. For example, Sara Garcea, the art director of Inc. Magazine, explained that she wears nine-inch boxer briefs by TomboyX under dresses when she rides her bike. Men's boxer briefs were not intended originally to provide women more freedom of mobility; however, Dunaway and Gonzalez's reinterpretation of traditional men's undergarments fulfill multiple unmet needs in the market and address the emerging ambivalence and ambiguity.

Some companies developed and marketed only one queer and trans product, while others offered a wide variety of products. For example, All is Fair in Love and Wear sells only binders ( FIGURE 6), while TomboyX, Let's Be Brief, and Play Out Apparel offer boxer briefs, briefs, trunks, and packing shorts ( FIGURE 7). TomboyX also sells compression tops as alternatives to binders; they are designed with breathable material, lined with a power-mesh fabric to add moderate compression, and stitched together with flatlock seams to avoid chafing or skin irritation ( FIGURE 8). FLAVNT Streetwear primarily developed and sold binders ( FIGURE 9), in addition to T-shirts, sweatpants, sweatshirts, and accessories such as socks, hats, pins, and screen-printed cloth bags. Similarly, gc2b primarily sells binders, yet offers other products such as T-shirts and jogger pants. Bluestockings Boutique, FtM Essentials, and Rebirth Garments offer the widest varieties of products. Bluestockings Boutique and FtM Essentials sell other brands' wholesale products in their retail establishments, which contributed to their wide product assortment. For example, FtM Essentials carries wholesale binders similar to those produced by Underworks ( FIGURE 10). Rebirth Garments mostly produces custom garments, which also contributes to their product diversity because they do not need to reach production minimums required by manufacturers. They engage in a slow-fashion business model by centering queer and trans, disabilities, people of color, and fat bodies-what Kafer describes as imagined futures. Another example of imagined futures is Cubacub's identity as a non-binary, queer, and disabled Phillipinx, which significantly informs their approach to how changes in time, space, and perceptions can influence not only commodities but the processes of production and distribution as well.

In addition to undergarments, some of these brands sell other types of clothing, such as T-shirts, loungewear, swimwear, and accessories that support brand and activist missions. TomboyX has launched swimwear, loungewear, and sleepwear lines that have a similar tomboy aesthetic to their undergarments. Like their underwear, bras, and binders, these collections are less feminine and more modest than most marketed towards women, filling a similar gap within these products categories. Chris and Courtney Rhodes founded FLAVNT Streetwear after Chris wore a homemade T-shirt reading "Pretty Boy" to an Austin Pride event. Chris received compliments and questions from people of varying sexual and gender identities about where he purchased his shirt and realized that the term "pretty boy" resonated with other queer and trans people, which led to development and sale of similar shirts. They expanded product offerings to include binders, yet they still sell T-shirts similar to the original that inspired their brand. While many of their T-shirts, sweatshirts, pins, and hats are intended to overtly express queer or trans identities, they have historically opted for neutral colors as opposed to rainbow aesthetics. gc2b also recently released a Black Liberation Capsule Collection, which includes graphic T-shirts, tanks, stickers, hats, mugs, in solidarity with the Black Lives Matter movement to address the racial iniquities that persist within the queer and trans community. All of the collection's proceeds will be divided among the Marsha P. Johnson Institute, Black Trans Travel Fund, No Justice No Pride, and The Emergency Release Fund. This line reflects the importance of intersectional social equity to gc2b's mission.

The brands mostly produce or sell items associated with a masculine-leaning gender expression, such as binders, packing underwear, and masculine-cut underwear for people with varying genital anatomies. The underwear products are reinterpretations of existing garments associated with "hegemonic masculinity"; for masculine-of-center people, wearing these garments helps them negotiate their desired masculine embodiment. For example, FtM Essentials sells RodeoH boxers; unlike traditional men's boxers, the crotch panel is double-layered to allow for the insertion of a packer ( FIGURES 11 and 12). The outer layer has an O-ring in the middle, allowing the boxers to serve also as a harness for "hard packing" (attaching an erect penis for use with a sexual partner during various sex acts) ( FIGURE 13).

While all of the brands offer masculine-leaning products, several design or sell feminine-leaning or gender-neutral garments. Let's Be Brief sells briefs and boxer briefs ( FIGURE 14) in addition to thongs and hipster panties in a variety of kitschy patterns. Bluestockings Boutique sells packing briefs alongside stereotypically feminine lingerie with lace, bows, and sheer fabric. However, several brands designed garments with multiple or mixed-gendered aesthetics, dismantling hegemonic notions of femininity and masculinity. For example, Rebirth Garments offerings are characterized by genderfuck aesthetic, incorporating neon-color blocking, geometric patterns, sheer fabrics, and silhouettes that reveal often concealed body parts (e.g., nipples, the buttocks, or the armpit). Cubacub also disrupts stereotypes about trans-masculine people with the mesh-crotch panel in the packing shorts featured in FIGURE 7. They explained it is for showing off the packer: "I make a chainmaille packer that's very decorative and not referencing any sort of like human-ness because I'm more interested in that"; this represents how some trans people desire to show off parts of their body that they often are pressured to conceal. Many dominant cultural ideas suggest that most trans-masculine people want to express themselves in a hypermasculine fashion; however, trans-masculine desires are more nuanced than a binary-masculine aesthetic.

Ethical and Labor Values

Because many customers of these queer- and trans-underwear brands are emotionally connected to the company, they expect heightened ethical standards, especially with labor issues. Most of the directors started these brands with the intention of making fashion more equitable, which extends to just labor practices. Many directors (Kadlec, Krakauer, Gonzalez, Dunaway, Sugar, Leifer, and Washington) decided to manufacture their products in the US (gc2b, All is Fair in Love and Wear, Bluestockings Boutique). Kadlec explains that they used American companies for both ethical and practical reasons:

Many brands, such as Let's Be Brief and TomboyX, that do not produce in the United States justified their decision by overseeing and managing their international factories' wages and working conditions. TomboyX manufactures in Canada and China; however, Dunaway described that she, Gonzalez, and their product developers would visit the facilities frequently. TomboyX also ensured that all of their factory workers receive a living wage.

Despite attempting to make their brands as ethical as possible, some directors still faced criticism related to labor. Krakauer (Let's Be Brief) explained that while she had wanted to produce in the US, the domestic apparel-manufacturing industry has declined so drastically that she could not find an appropriate factory, leading her to produce in China. Play Out Apparel faced similar difficulties, leading them to manufacture in Mexico, as well as be involved with the Save the Garment District movement in New York City. The ethical production of manufacturing in the US by Bluestockings Boutique, TomboyX, and FLAVNT Streetwear necessitated higher prices for their products. Kadlec explained some of the criticism they received about their price points.

Many of the brands are involved with community engagement, some donating products or profits to charities. For example, Play Out Apparel had a 10-10-10 program where their influencers posted a 10-percent-off-discount code for customers, which, when used, also ensured 10 percent of their purchase was donated to an LGBTQ + nonprofit, as well as support the influencer. FLAVNT Streetwear donated $15,000 for gender-affirming surgeries between 2015 and 2017. Several of the brands have free-binder programs, such as FtM Essentials, which provided free binders to trans people who would otherwise be unable to afford them. At the time of the interview, Deysach related FtM Essentials had at least 14,000 applicants to their free-binder program. Commercial companies can be motivated by social pressure or self-interest when they engage in philanthropic endeavors. But what was noticeable about the queer- and trans-brands' engagement is that they almost always, not surprisingly, supported queer and trans issues, threading their core values of queer and trans activism throughout all aspects of the business.

Activist Negotiations and Tensions in the Digital Sphere

Many of the brands, including TomboyX, gc2b, and Rebirth Garments, initially gained visibility through word-of-mouth, yet digital media facilitated an exponential growth in their popularity and the ability to quickly reach their intended communities. The brands all received free press from the emerging online queer-focused fashion and lifestyle media such as Autostraddle (established 2009), dapperQ (established 2009), and Qwear (established 2011). Part of Qwear's mission is to "elevate independent brands and designers, review clothing, and educate the mainstream fashion industry about queer identities." DapperQ 's owner, creative director, and editor-in-chief, Anita Dolce Vita claimed that "dapperQ is a queer fashion revolution, one of the most stylish forms of protest of our generation." These queer-fashion-media platforms, through their digital justice work, enhanced the brands' profiles and successes. Dominique and Honig (All is Fair in Love and Wear) acquired most of their customers from Facebook and Instagram. Dunaway and Gonzalez (TomboyX) recruited brand representatives to promote products on their personal social-media pages. Brand directors used social platforms to raise capital. Deysach (FtM Essentials) used social media to evaluate product interest for customers. She explained:

I was very not sold, necessarily, on the idea that people would want these sort of fancy underpants, and I was like, "Nobody wants those." And then I posted on social media and everyone was like, "we totally want, those!" And so, I picked it up, not so much as that anyone ever asked for them or so I thought. I thought they were cute but that I did not have a market for them. I use feedback from our followers on social media more than anything.

Dominique and Honig (All is Fair in Love and Wear) created a personal and private digital environment that respected their customers' wellbeing-spaces that had arguably been missing in the apparel market prior to the 2010s-because they understood how daunting it could be for customers to search for trans-supportive gear on the Internet. For example, they provided binding safety practices on their website ( FIGURE 15) in collaboration with the scholars leading The Binding Health Project, one of the first peer-reviewed publications that addresses chest-binding health implications.

who were conscientious about . . . their models and about how they represented themselves in a very thoughtful and smart way. I didn't want to be partnering with brands who were exploitative about how they represented women and how they represented people.

While Bluestockings Boutique focused on sexual empowerment in the products they sourced and then sold via e-commerce, Dunaway and Gonzalez (TomboyX) developed products for comfort and practicality, although their products did incorporate trendy prints and colors. Despite these differences, both brands expressed that they aimed to avoid objectification in their imagery. Dunaway explained that, on their product pages,

we intentionally chose not to show our underwear on the body because, again, we don't want it to be about being sexy and that whole like "Calvin Klein thing" where the men are always doing something really powerful in their underwear, and the women are always lying on a bed.

Deysach (FtM Essentials) explained she also does not typically advertise products on a body; for example, she photographs packers alongside her hand for size comparison ( FIGURE 16). Deysach's unconventional approach helps her customers understand the correct packer size and reduce potential negative comparisons that her customer might make between themselves and the chosen model. The TomboyX Instagram is filled with models donning products, but these images feature exceptionally diverse models in body size, gender expression, and skin color.

In addition to avoiding objectification in their marketing photography, the directors included diverse and inclusive models as a form of disidentification. Once Kadlec (Bluestockings Boutique) began producing her own photoshoots, she featured non-professional models of diverse races, genders, and sexual orientations. Similarly, Sugar (Play Out Apparel) explained she values race and size diversity. Leifer (Play Out Apparel) added, "It is all about adding, there is no taking away. It's not about exiting something. It's definitely about just making our arms wider, and bringing more into this space with us." Play Out Apparel used both professional models and their friends of diverse body sizes and races ( FIGURE 17). Three of their past models were breast cancer survivors who chose not to undergo reconstructive surgery; Leifer and Sugar featured them topless in a 2015 photoshoot to raise mastectomy-scar awareness highlighting how many people forgo reconstructive surgery. TomboyX also featured bodies that challenged the prevailing-beauty ideals; Dunaway explained that they "recently did a really cool shoot with some disabled rowers that's on our blog. Just really focusing telling stories about people living their lives in a powerful way." TomboyX also aimed to raise mastectomy-scar awareness by featuring activist Erika Hart-who had a double mastectomy-topless in the 2018 New York Fashion Week annual queer runway show at the Brooklyn Museum and in one of their promotion videos ( FIGURE 18). Similarly, Cubacub (Rebirth Garments) created a promotional video featuring people of diverse abilities and races dancing in their designs. Play Out Apparel presented racial diversity by featuring a Chinese-American model in their campaigns; this inspired a Chinese-American woman to apply for an internship with the company because she felt represented in their digital advertising. The brands carefully avoided potential tokenism when casting models through critical decision-making and self-reflection.

Although the directors thought critically about inclusive imagery and language, their digital media received both positive and negative reactions. On the positive side, the safe space Washington created on gc2b's social media has facilitated trans community-building. Washington explained that

[once trans communities] find something that works, they're going to want to share that with other people. . . . It's not competitive, and people know how relieving it is to have it, so they're more than willing to share that with other people and spread the word.

gc2b got free marketing from this digital community-building, as Washington explained some of his customers are "self-proclaimed marketers." These community interactions may not have happened in the same way without the existence of gc2b, their trans products, and their social-media platforms. Similarly, Cubacub branded themself as the face of Rebirth Garments, and they said that their customers reported that the brand's digital visibility inspired them to "come out." gc2b and Rebirth Garment's digital marketing techniques helped to promote acceptance and increase confidence for queer and trans people, in contrast with mainstream-marketing norms that often rely on heteronormativity and cisgenderism. Cubacub explained, "You know that's just what we've been trained to do in the world. You're just expecting to not be affirmed."

The brands continually engage in critical reflection on their business choices resulting in needed changes; some also handled significant criticism related to digital media language. For example, since Dominique became director of All is Fair in Love and Wear, they refined language to reflect terms embraced by the trans community. Kadlec assumed that using "queer" for Bluestockings Boutique would agree with a mostly millennial audience; however, the word triggered significant backlash, and she stopped using it in promotional materials. TomboyX, who is directed by two cisgender women, also experienced criticism in March of 2020 when they cast a trans-man model for their women's celebration underwear print. The model, @Trinity, posted about their experience on Twitter:

I'm very disappointed in TomboyX. I just recently worked with them again, and within a minute of me arriving they informed me that they cast me to model their WOMEN'S CELEBRATION print, and reactively I said, "No I'm not, I'm a trans man, legally male, and a year on testosterone."
I arrived (completely unprompted on the print) [they were not told what the shoot would entail] and was immediately put into an unsafe environment, being reduced down to my genitals, and continued to get misgendered throughout the entirety of the day on set even after being corrected. The transphobia did not end there. They had a sign that read "We the *insert cat photo.*" I asked them about it to which they responded "We the Pussy." I explained how that excludes trans women from the celebration and to try and include me, a trans man, instead purely because of what genitals I have was wrong. This severely impacts their authenticity as an LGBT company. They thanked me for educating them, to which I replied, "It was not my job to educate you. I am a model. There were so many oversights regarding this casting, and it was unfortunately at the expense of my safety."

Our CEO sat down with Trinity this week, and they agreed to work together to establish a protocol for ourselves & other agencies to ensure the trans community feels welcome, cared for, & respected on photoshoot sets. We are dedicated to learning & getting better every day.

Later TomboyX released underwear with a trans flag print (blue, white, and pink stripes) and packing underwear ( FIGURE 19).

While TomboyX responded by claiming their imagery was not intentionally transphobic, other brand directors responded to criticism in different ways. For example, Kadlec received numerous emails criticizing a photoshoot with a trans woman posing behind the cisgender models. However, Kadlec's response was to "just not touch it. I was like, 'There is nothing to be gained from being in this.'" Instead, she responded indirectly with heightened attention to the positioning of models in future photoshoots. Kadlec also felt, "someone on the Internet will always respond to a tweet being upset and you have to let it go as a brand." Kadlec's experience reflected the continual tensions in running a business under free-market capitalism, even though following social-justice philosophies. While Kadlec learned to be more critically aware with Bluestockings Boutique's imagery, she also understands that reacting to every negative customer comment or concern may not be efficient due to the extensive emotional labor involved.

Some of the brands received hateful online comments. Cubacub (Rebirth Garments) related their reaction to one comment about their video for Kickstarter: "is just being like, 'We're doing this because I love people! La-la-la!' We were like, 'How do you have such an angry reaction to me, I'm not even pushing anything. I'm just like happy, happy.'" When possible, Cubacub and Washington (gc2b) monitored hateful and bigoted social-media reactions by responding or deleting them. Cubacub, however, stopped Instagram posts for a few weeks due to numerous Islamophobic and racist attacks against them and their models. Cubacub explained they typically posted on Instagram once a day, and the hiatus caused a significant decline in sales: "Oh my God, I didn't know how important Instagram was to me, but now I see that that's so important."

Since the brands operated mostly via e-commerce, they isolated some customers who were not familiar with online purchasing. Deysach recognized this disadvantage for some of her customers, and she decided to keep a phone-order option. Although Deysach expressed frustration when people used the phone connection to call Early to Bed, her sex-toy shop, to sexually harass her employees, nevertheless she does not want to put FtM Essentials completely online because equity and access are central to her brand: "You have some fifty-year-old trans guy who's never had a binder before, who doesn't know how to use the Internet and you have to walk him through every style on the phone and we want to be here for those people who really need us."

Conclusion

The directors of these brands engaged in queering (through disidentification and/or their identity as queer and trans brands) existing designs, production and distribution processes, and online spaces. They were working towards reimagining futures by assisting queer and trans people with expressing their authentic selves. The brands negotiated connections between present-day and possible futures, where "imagining different futures and temporalities might help us see, and do, the present differently." Unlike mainstream queer media that has positioned fashionable lesbians as thin and white, these brands embraced an intersectional lens by centering people of color and fat, disabled, queer, and trans bodies throughout their business processes. While the directors occupied varying privileged social positions (e.g., white, cisgender, thin, able-bodied), they paid heightened critical attention to their status and power as gatekeepers in the fashion system. Many customers lauded them for their accomplishments in marketing and acknowledging and expanding options for queer and trans people in the fashion industry; however, others criticized the brands for their shortcomings in diversity, equity, and other ethics, especially because they promote themselves as egalitarian. The directors continuously crossed a contentious tight-rope balancing equity, profit, trust, privilege, oppression, genuine philanthropy, and fashion activism. They arguably engaged in various forms of fashion activism to the extent they were willing to do so within free-market capitalism. The experience of these brands and their history, from the initial idea to distribution and consumption, demonstrates the complexity of fashioning queer and trans identities, fashion commodities, and fashion activism in the twenty-first-century capitalist marketplace.

Future Considerations

Brand, Fashion Channel

Interviewee Name, Position, Pronouns, and Race or Ethnicity

Date of Interview

Residence at Time of Oral History

Interview Length

Interview Location

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Kelly L. Reddy-Best PhD is an associate professor at Iowa State University in Apparel, Merchandising, and Design and the director and curator of ISU's Textiles and Clothing Museum. In her research she examines the interrelationships of dress and identity with a social justice lens. She has taught courses across the apparel curriculum in design, product development, merchandising, culture, and history.

Kyra Streck is a master's student at Iowa State University studying Apparel, Merchandising, and Design. She received her bachelor's degree in Fashion Design and Management from Cornell University. She is a recipient of the Agatha Huepenbecker Burnet Endowed Graduate Research and Teaching Assistantship. Her research background and interests include queer and genderqueer individuals' relationships to dress and informal economies.

Jennifer Farley Gordon PhD is a lecturer in Apparel, Merchandising, and Design at Iowa State University and the digital curator for the Textiles and Clothing Museum. She teaches courses in the history of fashion and conducts research on the history of the children's-wear industry. She previously worked as an assistant curator at The Museum at FIT in New York.

1 In this paper, we use the terms queer and trans. Queer is used as an umbrella and fluid term to describe individuals who are interested in, sexually oriented towards, or sexually active with individuals of the same sex or gender or those who identify as non-binary. We use trans as an umbrella term to refer to individuals who may not align their gender identity or gender expression with the sex they were assigned at birth; however, when referring to other scholarship, we use the previously published language. We recognize as scholars that these terms are ever changing, and the meanings are constantly shifting. Chris Geidner, "The Court Cases That Changed L.G.B.T.Q. Rights," New York Times, June 19, 2019, < https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/19/us/legal-history-lgbtq-rights-timeline.html>; Wendy Hilton-Morrow and Kathleen Battles, Sexual Identities and The Media (New York: Routledge, 2015), 57-61; "Know Your Rights," National Center for Transgender Equality, 2019, < https://transequality.org/know-your-rights>; Megan Townsend, "GLAAD's 'Where We are on TV': Report Shows Television Telling More LGBTQ Stories Than Ever," Gay & Lesbian Alliance Against Defamation, (blog) October 25, 2018, < https://www.glaad.org/blog/glaads-where-we-are-tv-report-shows-television-telling-more-lgbtq-stories-ever>.

2 Out.com editors, "Gap Unveils New Ad Featuring Same-Sex Couples," Out, May 4, 2012, < https://www.out.com/fashion/truman-says/2012/05/04/gap-unveils-new-ad-featuring-same-sex-couple>; Katherine Sender, "Selling Sexual Subjectivities: Audiences Respond to Gay Window Advertising," Critical Studies in Media Communication 16, no. 2 (1999): 173-75.

3 For an in-depth discussion of the ways meaning negotiation is intricately related to capitalism and symbolic ambiguity, see Susan B. Kaiser, Richard H. Nagasawa, and Sandra S. Hutton, "Construction of an SI Theory of Fashion: Part 1. Ambivalence and Change," Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 13, no. 3 (1995): 172-83, < https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9501300304>. The position titles of owners and staff among the brands varied. Throughout the manuscript, we utilize the term "director" for conciseness unless referring to a specific person and their title.

4 In total, we identified seventy-seven queer- and trans-focused fashion brands that were or are creating a variety of products and are located worldwide; we identified brands through keyword searches in Google and analysis of queer- and fashion-focused media such as Autostraddle and Qwear. We invited every brand that we identified for an oral history; however, only twenty-four brands agreed to be interviewed; nine of those brands are discussed in this paper. Some of the brands never responded to our initial or follow-up emails, while all the others responded positively but indicated that being a small-business owner did not leave much spare time for these requests. Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Dana Goodin, and Kyra Streck, 21st Century Queer Fashion Brands: Oral History Project (Ames: Iowa State University Digital Press, 2020), < https://iastate.pressbooks.pub/queerfashionbrands/>.

5 Reddy-Best, "LGBTQ Women, Appearance, Negotiations, and Dress Codes," Journal of Homosexuality 65, no. 5 (2018): 628-32.

6 Joanne Entwistle, "Fashion and the Fleshy Body: Dress as Embodied Practice," Fashion Theory 4, no. 3 (2000): 334, < https://doi.org/10.2752/136270400778995471>.

7 Umberto Eco, "Lumbar Thought," in Travels in Hyperreality (Orlando, FL: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1986), 192-94.

8 Center for American Progress and Movement Advancement Project, Paying an Unfair Price: The Financial Penalty for LGBT Women in America, 2015, < https://www.lgbtmap.org/file/paying-an-unfair-price-lgbt-women.pdf>; Jaime M. Grant, Lisa A. Mottet, Justin Tanis, Jack Harrison, Jody L. Herman, and Mara Keisling, Injustice at Every Turn, National Center for Transgender Equality, 2016, < https://transequality.org/sites/default/files/docs/resources/NTDS_Exec_Summary.pdf>.

9 Kaiser, Nagasawa, and Hutton, "Construction of an SI Theory of Fashion," 173.

10 Donald A. Ritchie, Doing Oral History (New York: Oxford University Press, 2003), 40.

11 Patricia Lina Leavy, "The Practice of Feminist Oral History and Focus Group Interviews," in Feminist Research Practice: A Primer, ed. Sharlene Nagy Hesse-Biber and Patricia Lina Leavy (Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage, 2007), 153.

12 Leavy, "The Practice of Feminist Oral History and Focus Group Interviews," 154.

13 See note 4. Leavy, "The Practice of Feminist Oral History and Focus Group Interviews," 168.

14 For a full description of this analysis process, see Juliet Corbin and Anselm Strauss, "Grounded Theory Research: Procedures, Canons, and Evaluative Criteria," Qualitative Sociology 13, no. 1 (1990): 3-21; John W. Creswell, Qualitative Inquiry and Research Design: Choosing Among Five Approaches (Los Angeles: SAGE, 2013), 179-212.

15 Judith Butler, Gender Trouble (New York: Routledge, 1990), 187; Annamarie Jagose, Queer Theory: An Introduction (New York: New York University Press, 1996), 3. Radical contributions to the fashion system certainly have occurred throughout history; for example, in the 1960s Rudi Gernreich created the monokini, a topless thong bathing suit, and marketed it to both men and women. Nicole Archer, "Rudi Gernreich and the Art of Bad Timing," Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture 14, no. 1 (2016): 41. However, despite the significant nuance throughout the twentieth century, including many fashion perspectives challenging dominant cultural norms during the unisex movement in the 1960s and 1970s, the larger overarching system is entangled in systematic oppression. Jo B. Paoletti, Sex and Unisex: Fashion Feminism, and the Sexual Revolution (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2015), 7-9.

16 Valerie Steele, "A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk," in A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk, ed. Valerie Steele (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2013), 18-24.

17 Victoria Clarke and Katherine Spence, "'I Am Who I Am?' Navigating Norms and the Importance of Authenticity in Lesbian and Bisexual Women's Accounts of Their Appearance Practices," Psychology & Sexuality 4, no. 1 (2013): 25-33, < https://doi.org/10.1080/19419899.2013.748240>; Lillian Faderman, Odd Girls and Twilight Lovers: A History of Lesbian Life in the Twentieth Century (New York: Columbia University Press, 1991), 180; Reddy-Best and Elaine L. Pedersen, "Queer Women's Experiences Purchasing Clothing and Looking for Clothing Styles," Clothing & Textile Research Journal 33, no. 4 (2015): 265-79, < https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X15585165>.

18 Clare Hemmings, "Out of Sight, Out of Mind? Theorizing Femme Narrative," Sexualities 2, no. 4 (1999): 451-64, < https://doi.org/10.1177/136346099002004005>.

19 Reddy-Best and Goodin, "Queer Fashion and Style: Stories from the Heartland-Authentic Midwestern Queer Voices Through a Museum Exhibition," Dress 46, no. 2 (2020): 115-40, < https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1686875>.

20 Betty Hillman, Dressing for the Culture Wars: Style and the Politics of Self-Presentation in the 1960s and 1970s (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 2015), 119.

21 Julie E. Hartman, "Creating a Bisexual Display: Making Bisexuality Visible," Journal of Bisexuality 13, no. 1 (2013): 39-62, < https://doi.org/10.1080/15299716.2013.755727>.

22 Andrew Reilly, Jory Catalpa, and Jenifer McGuire, "Clothing Fit Issues for Trans People," Fashion Studies 1, no. 2 (2019): 12, < https://doi.org/10.38055/fs010201>.

23 Ben Barry and Daniel Drak, "Intersectional Interventions into Queer and Trans Liberation: Youth Resistance Against Right-Wing Populism Through Fashion Hacking," Fashion Theory 23, no. 6 (September 30, 2019): 679-701, < https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1657260>; Ron Eglash, "An Introduction to Generative Justice," Teknokultura 13, no. 2 (2016): 369-404, < http://dx.doi.org/10.5209/rev_TEKN.2016.v13.n2.52847>; Eli Erlick, "Trans Youth Activism on the Internet," Frontiers 39, no. 1 (2018): 73-92, < https://doi.org/10.5250/fronjwomestud.39.1.0073>; Sarah Kuhn, "Fiber Arts and Generative Justice," Teknokultura 13, no. 2 (2016): 461-89, < https://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/articulo?codigo=5764107>.

24 Unless otherwise noted, we drew information about each brand from the oral histories outlined in TABLE 1.

25 Kaiser, Nagasawa and Hutton, "Construction of an SI Theory of Fashion," 177.

26 gc@b, "Mission Statement, For Us By Us," < https://2b.care/pages/mission-statement>.

27 Elena Romera, Free Stylin': How Hip Hop Changed the Fashion Industry (Santa Barbara: Praeger, 2012), 115.

28 Libby Estell, "Birdies: Lingerie on a Lark," WWD, May 9, 2005, < https://wwd.com/business-news/retail/birdies-lingerie-on-a-lark-575336/>.

29 Ante trans is a term Dominique created, stating, "that's a term that I made up and I know that sort of adds to the complexity of this conversation. . . . In 17th century architecture, an Ante chamber is a room that leads into a larger room like the larger hall of the cathedral. At amusement parks it's the place where guests are told about the ride, right before they step on the roller-coaster. I'm approaching that larger part of my life, but where I am financially and how much time I can devote to that [transitioning] and the decisions that I still need to make regarding that are still being tailored and nuanced. That's how I consider myself. Definitely still with and in the larger spectrum of, a trans-feminine person."

30 Richard Delgado and Jean Stefancic, Critical Race Theory: An Introduction (New York: New York University Press, 2017), 20-21.

31 "Gender Gear," Early to Bed, 2020, < https://www.early2bed.com/gender-gear/>.

32 David Oswell, The Agency of Children: From Family to Global Human Rights (New York: Cambridge University, 2013), 37-48.

33 "All is Fair in Love and Wear," All is Fair in Love and Wear, July 28, 2016, video, 1:07, < https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/allisfair/all-is-fair-in-love-and-wear>.

34 Dominique was the only director currently seeking a degree.

35 Butler, Gender Trouble, 24-25; Erving Goffman, The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life (Edinburgh, UK: University of Edinburgh, 1959), 8; Candace West and Don H. Zimmerman, "Doing Gender," Gender and Society 1, no. 2 (1987): 125-51, < http://www.jstor.org/stable/189945>.

36 Leslie Feinberg, Stone Butch Blues (Ithaca, NY: Firebrand Books, 1993), 192.

37 Adea Danielle, "HOW TO TUCK! NO TAPE, NO PAIN! | Adea Danielle," YouTube, May 1, 2020, video, 16:31, < https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJAxw1NFBdQ&t=123s>; Matthew G. O'Neill, "Transgender Youth and YouTube Videos: Self-Representation and Five Identifiable Trans Youth Narratives," in Queer Youth and Media Cultures, ed. Chris Pullen (London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2014), 34-45.

38 Jagose, Queer Theory, 3.

39 "We Test New Gender-Neutral Underwear," Inc., August 15, 2018, video, 0:54, < https://youtu.be/jFs_CckvkGQ>; Kaiser, Nagasawa and Hutton, "Construction of an SI Theory of Fashion," 177.

40 Allison Kafer, Feminist Queer Crip (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2013), 2.

41 Reddy-Best and Goodin, "QueerCrip Fashion in the Twenty-First Century: Sky Cubacub and the QueerCrip Dress Reform Movement," Clothing Cultures 5, no. 3 (2018): 354.

42 Grant, "Masculine of Center Women in the LGBTQ Community Given Safe Platform to Shine," Rollingout, August 30, 2017, < https://rollingout.com/2017/08/30/masculine-center-women-lgbtq-community-given-safe-platform-shine/>; R. W. Connell and James W. Messerschmidt, "Hegemonic Masculinity: Rethinking the Concept," Gender and Society 19, no. 6 (2005): 832, < https://doi.org/10.1177/0891243205278639>.

43 José Esteban Muñoz, Disidentifications: Queers of Color and the Performance of Politics (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1999), ix-xiv.

44 Muñoz, Disidentifications, x.

45 Ben Barry and Dylan Martin, "Gender Rebels: Inside the Wardrobes of Young Gay Men with Subversive Style," Fashion, Style & Popular Culture 3, no. 2 (2016): 230, < https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc.3.2.225_1>; Andrew Reilly, "Top or Bottom: A Position Paper," Psychology & Sexuality 7, no. 3 (2016): 169, < https://doi.org/10.1080/19419899.2015.1135182>.

46 Reilly, Catalpa, and McGuire, "Clothing Fit Issues for Trans People," 12.

47 Tatyana Bellamy-Walker, "Not Manly Enough: Femmephobia's Stinging Impact on the Transmasculine Community," Medium, January 2020, < https://medium.com/@tatibell/not-manly-enough-femmephobias-stinging-impact-on-the-transmasculine-community-598c0b5c4f47>.

48 Guest Authors, "Dapper Queer Boxers from Let's Be Brief," DapperQ, September 18, 2011, < https://www.dapperq.com/2011/09/dapper-womens-boxers-from-lets-be-brief/>.

49 Jen Gushue, "TomboyX Has Single-Handedly Changed My Underwear Standards Forever with Its Comfortable, Gender-Inclusive Styles," Business Insider, June 18, 2020, <https://www.businessinsider.com/tomboyx-review>.

50 Jenna Wirth, "These 9 Fashion Brands Celebrate the LGBTQ + Community All Year Long," PopSugar, June 10, 2020, < https://www.popsugar.com/fashion/photo-gallery/47519286/embed/47539890/p>.

51 "Best Way to Flavnt Your Pride," The Austin Chronicle, 2017, < https://www.austinchronicle.com/best-of-austin/year:2017/poll:critics/category:shopping/flavnt-streetware-the-best-way-to-flavnt-your-pride/>.

52 David P. Baron, "A Positive Theory of Moral Management, Social Pressure, and Corporate Social Performance," Journal of Economies & Management Strategy 18, no. 1 (2009): 7-43, < https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1530-9134.2009.00206.x>.

53 Butler, Gender Trouble, 24-25; Jagose, Queer Theory, 3.

54 "What is Autostraddle?", Autostraddle, 2020, < https://www.autostraddle.com/about/>; < https://www.qwearfashion.com/about>; Devin Norelle, "dapperQ Celebrates 10 Years of Influencing Queer Culture and Fashion, Out, September 9, 2019, < https://www.out.com/fashion/2019/9/09/dapperq-celebrates-10-years-influencing-queer-culture-and-fashion>.

56 Anita Dolce Vita, "DapperQ Masculine Gender Queer Fashion Show at Brooklyn Museum," DaperQ, December 10, 2014, < https://www.dapperq.com/2014/12/dapperq-masculine-gender-queer-fashion-show-brooklyn-museum-models-carried-blacklivesmatter-signs-ended-hundreds-handsup-protest/>.

57 Sarah Peitzmeier, "The Binding Health Project," (blog) March 2014, < https://bindinghealthproject.wordpress.com/about/>; Sarah Peitzmeier, et al., "Health Impact of Chest Binding Among Transgender Adults: A Community Engaged, Cross-Sectional Study," Culture, Health, & Sexuality 19, no. 1 (2017): 64-75, < https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/13691058.2016.1191675>.

58 Julia Schuster, "Why the Personal Remained Political: Comparing Second and Third Wave Perspectives on Everyday Feminism," Social Movement Studies 16, no. 6 (2017): 647-59, < https://doi.org/10.1080/14742837.2017.1285223>.

59 Schuster, "Why the Personal Remained Political," 647-59.

60 Leon Festinger, "A Theory of Social Comparison Processes," Human Relations 7, no. 2 (1954): 117-40, < https://doi.org/10.1177/001872675400700202>.

61 "Erika Hart Knows There is Power in Vulnerability," TomboyX, May 3, 2018, video, 1:00, < https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEEBHVW0Oos>.

62 "Rebirth Garments Promo 2017," Rebirth Garments, 2017, video, 3:44, < https://vimeo.com/249874344>.

63 Sondra Rose Marie, "7 Gender and Body-Inclusive Lingerie and Underwear Brands," taggmagazine, December 18, 2018, < https://taggmagazine.com/gender-and-body-inclusive-lingerie-underwear/>.

64 Lingerie Journal Staff, "Bluestocking Boutique," The Lingerie Journal, July 14, 2015, < https://thelingeriejournal.com/bluestockings-boutique/>.

65 @Trinity, Twitter, March 5, 2020, < https://twitter.com/trinity_bree/status/1235806657537433600?lang=en>.

66 @Crabnebula, Instagram, March 12, 2020, < https://www.instagram.com/p/B9pJw0Cpa3G/>.

67 Kafer, Feminist Queer Crip, 28.

68 Reddy-Best and Katie Baker Jones, "Is This What a Lesbian Looks like? Lesbian Fashion and the Fashionable Lesbian in the United States Press, 1960s to 2010s," Journal of Lesbian Studies 24, no. 2 (2020): 159.

69 Meike Eilert and Abigail Nappier Cherup, "The Activist Company: Examining a Company's Pursuit of Societal Change Through Corporate Activism Using an Institutional Theoretical Lens," Journal of Public Policy & Marketing 39, no. 4 (2020): 462-64.

70 Delgado and Stefancic, Critical Race Theory, 20-21. While we offer business implications, we recognize that many people cannot afford the paywall to read this research.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Visibly Queer- and Trans-Fashion Brands and Retailers in the Twenty-First Century

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Socially conscious fashion entrepreneurs in the twenty-first century built many of the first visibly queer- and trans-focused fashion brands. In this paper, we critically examine nine of these brands that produced and distributed undergarments or other objects worn near or against the skin, such as binders, packers, underwear, lingerie, and bras.

# data[].attributes.body
Lounge UK creating a new drop/ permanent extension on underwear for transgender customers/ non binary/ queer customers.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
A recent Times article on chest binding prompted a discussion among readers about the practice, which some transgender and gender-nonconforming people use to compress their breasts and treat body dysphoria, as well as how we covered it.

We wanted to hear more from people who have used chest binders, so we asked readers to tell us why they've worn them and what effect binding has had on their lives. We received more than 200 responses, mostly from teenagers and young adults.

Below is a selection of the responses, which have been edited and condensed.

If you have used chest binders, please tell us about your experience in the comments.

Image

R.J. Russell Credit...

I am 31 and have been wearing constrictive sports bras since I developed breasts in high school. I didn't know about binders until well into my 20s. I wish I had. Without the availability of binders, many people like me spent years wearing Ace bandages around our chests. This practice was harmful and made it difficult to breathe. Now that binders are more widely available, I wear one most days.

I'm currently training to run the New York marathon for the second year in a row, and I'm starting graduate school at Columbia University in the fall. These are things that I would not have been able to do without a binder.

- R.J. Russell, 31

I am well aware of the risks of wearing binders for too long, in excessive heat and while exercising. I do my best to be careful, but if I'm desperate, I'll wear one for a bit too long because my dysphoria is a worse alternative to being uncomfortable for a few hours.

I recently discovered TransTape, a medical-grade tape that you can use to open-chest bind (basically tape your breasts to the sides to make your chest appear as flat as possible). And because the tape is stretchy and doesn't wrap around your entire chest, it doesn't compress, allowing you to sleep and shower in it, and it can be worn up to five days. I'm trying it out for the summer so I don't have to suffer as much with a hot, tight binder.

Binding for so many of us is not negotiable and just helps us feel the way we want to feel about ourselves. We don't need you to understand how we are feeling but need you to understand that what we are experiencing is incredibly real for us.

- Cody Mancini, 21

I decided to start chest binding when my dysphoria concerning my chest led to suicidal thoughts and extreme anxiety. I discussed binding with my doctor, and she provided me with a lot of information (namely that it's safe). I also gathered information from my transgender friends who bind.

Binding was a massive relief from the anxiety and depression associated with having breasts. I would have repeated panic attacks when bra shopping, and seeing myself with breasts felt completely wrong. Being able to bind (and eventually getting top surgery) mitigated those awful feelings and psychosomatic symptoms that came from having breasts.

Binding is not fun, and it's not a trend. We are well aware of the risks, but for many transmasculine people, it's binding or suicide. The emotions and physical illness associated with being incapable of transitioning are much worse than any binding side effects.

- Raphael Sanche, 17

I am a musical theater performer and recently had an unfortunate incident where the binder restricted me so much that I got dizzy and nearly passed out on stage. I also regularly get backaches and shoulder tightness.

But binding is still preferable to the dysphoria that comes from having breasts. I cannot wait to be able to have top surgery and be free of them forever.
- Edward George, 47
The first time I put a binder on I cried out of pure happiness. I was flat for the first time since puberty. Putting a shirt on over it was like actually seeing myself, and a tiny sliver of confidence poked out of the writhing mass of self-loathing that gender dysphoria created.

My first binder was a full-length one from Underworks. I had some ups and downs with it for the first couple of months. I eventually decided that a full-length binder wasn't for me - it was too tight and hot. I found another company, GC2B. This time I got a half-length binder and fell in love. It held my chest down but not too tight. I breathed easily throughout the day. It felt amazing to live my life as I always wanted without my chest bothering me.

Ultimately, the goal is top surgery, but binding is the best medicine until then.
- Vincent Burke, 24
I bound my chest for years in my 30s before coming out as a transgender man in my 40s and until I was able to save enough of a credit line to have top surgery in my late 40s.

Binding was a necessity for me because my breasts grew as I aged and became intolerable. The binders were better than the Ace bandages I initially used but hard to find, even online.

By the time I had my surgery and didn't need the binders anymore, we had a transgender resource center where I was able to donate them. Now, with insurance covering gender confirmation surgeries, I'm hoping young guys won't need binders anymore.

Binding was bad for my asthma, but that was always a secondary concern for me.

- Terry Schleder, 55

Erin Hurst Credit... Photo by Haven Kaylor

I first had a desire to bind toward the end of middle school, when I came out as non-binary. Because of online articles that said binders would mutilate your body, my mother firmly decided against getting me one. It was only when I had my doctor and therapist assure her binding was safe that I was able to get my first binder, which drastically improved my self-image and mental health without any sacrifices to my physical health.

Binders tend to be used as a temporary solution to the problem of having breasts and cannot be worn at all times. During exercise they can restrict breathing, and back and chest pain can come from wearing them for more than about eight hours at a time. You should also never sleep with a binder on.

Binders are a great tool for transgender people who cannot afford or are not allowed to get top surgery, and they're harmless if minor precautions are taken. They have an incredible payoff for their users mentally and let a transgender person "test drive" a flat chest. I still use a binder and have suffered no side effects after more than five years.
- Erin Hurst, 17

I've warped ribs, have consistent pains near my sternum and generally have a hard time breathing.

It's a choice I make because at this point I don't have any other. It's not feasible to have a large chest in public because of my dysphoria and the stares I get.

I'm looking into top surgery far earlier than I wanted to simply because I'm sick of putting myself in pain first thing in the morning. I feel like I'm chained to my binder in a lot of ways because as horrible as my experiences are, I don't feel like I have the option to stop. I'd like to say better things about it because it has helped my dysphoria, but the cost of binding is so high that I feel caught in a lose-lose situation.
- John Gendron, 19

Caleb B. Sanders Credit...

I have been binding for four years, starting at age 16. I discovered binding through the internet as I began following more transgender individuals and navigating my own gender identity.

When I slipped on my first binder, well, it didn't slip on. Despite my small frame, I could not fit into a medium. I ended up returning it and ordering a size up. Even that was still extremely difficult to put on. You get used to it, though. The tightness is a double-edged sword - sometimes you feel like you're being suffocated, but at other times a binder feels like a close hug.

The longer I used binding, the more I could feel my body deteriorating. The physical pain got worse but so did the emotional. Slowly I began living a life where I couldn't not bind. The initial euphoria of flatness turned into never being able to get flat enough. My body aches every day, I no longer have the lung capacity I once had, and my ribs have inverted. I fear breaking one when I sneeze. I am getting surgery this year and it can't come soon enough.

- Caleb B. Sanders, 20

I was binding without knowing it as early as age 12, only using sports bras and Lycra shirt layers. I was a teenager in the late '90s and mid-2000s, so there wasn't the widespread access to commercial binders that we have now. As I started using the internet and learned what binding was, I began trying new methods. Many were unsafe and I believe did great harm, but they helped me combat intense dysphoria.

My first real binder was an Underworks from a Big Brothers program. It was from another transgender guy who had recently had top surgery, and I got it for free in the mail; I was 19. I remember putting it on and looking at myself in the mirror, with my then longhair pulled under a cap and an uncharacteristic confidence.

Binding is awful - it's hot, it chafes, it can make you break out and bleed in tight spots, and it's not comfortable. Sometimes it restricts my breathing and makes me feel sick, and sometimes it's not enough to help me feel safe and happy in my body.

I have yet to be able to afford top surgery so I am still binding daily. I'm worried my decades-long use of binders will one day have a negative impact on my chest surgery results, but I continue to do it to combat dysphoria. It saves my life.
- Shaun Connors, 3 1 - Cary McGinnis, 26
I started binding in my late teens unsafely, with store-bought compression bandages. In my early 20s, when I had moved out of my family's home and had my own income, I bought a GC2B binder. I researched my options thoroughly before purchasing, but unfortunately there are few medical studies on chest binding, so most information is anecdotal.
- Daniel Burke, 32
The physical feeling of wearing a binder is about as obtrusive as wearing a bra used to be - it definitely feels good to take it off, but for the most part I forget it's there.

A note to readers who are not subscribers: This article from the Reader Center does not count toward your monthly free article limit.

Follow the @ReaderCenter on Twitter for more coverage highlighting your perspectives and experiences and for insight into how we work.

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'It's Binding or Suicide': Transgender and Non-Binary Readers Share Their Experiences With Chest Binders (Published 2019)

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A recent Times article on chest binding prompted a discussion among readers about the practice, which some transgender and gender-nonconforming people use to compress their breasts and treat body dysphoria, as well as how we covered it.

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Based in the UK, Carmen Sui-Lung Liu started her brand 10 years ago - out of necessity. When Sui-Li began her transition, she quickly realised a dearth of lingerie brands for tucking, designed to minimise the appearance of bulging and achieve a smoother, more gender-affirming appearance. Like any smart business woman with a can-do attitude, she decided that she would be the one to do it. Carmen Liu has since expanded into bras that vary in sizes to include wider shoulder widths, as well as clubwear and a best-selling satin thong. A 2020 Forbes 30 Under 30 alum, Sui-Lung plans to add additional categories to the line in an effort to fully dress her community. Though functional, Carmen Liu doesn't skimp on sex appeal, and should be on every trans femme's list.

Chromat X Tourmaline

Chromat owes much of its popularity to sporty-chic bodywear and a brand identity that celebrates body inclusivity. After collaborating with the activist-artist Tourmaline on a collection video during the pandemic, Chromat designer Becca McCharen-Tran decided they wanted to continue working together; the duo landed on a swimsuit collaboration.

As a transgender woman, Tourmaline was cognisant of the gap in the market for swimwear designed for varying gender expressions. What I appreciate about the collection is that it caters to varying tastes and comforts. There are rash guards suitable for trans men not ready to go shirtless on the beach; a swim skirt I have my eye on is perfect for girls who want functionality out of their swim bottoms; and bikini tops that range in size from XS to 4X. Expect to see plenty of these boldly coloured separates on Fire Island and Riis Beach this summer - if you haven't already spotted them.

Judith

A young designer living at the China Town/Lower East Side border of New York - I dare not refer to that location as Dimes Square - Erik Goldberg launched their label at the beginning of the pandemic after losing their job at another design house. Had Erik been assigned female at birth, their mother would have named them Judith - beyond chic, in my opinion.

Formally trained at Pratt, Erik had a front-row seat to the transgender renaissance that was birthed during the pandemic. I've watched them sew girls into party dresses and design costumes for the lead singers of indie bands; they have their finger on the pulse of what's happening. Their upcoming collection will be released later this year and features a mix of bold, boudoir-ready lingerie and surrealist-inspired garments. They're all perfect for parties - and late nights at the afters.

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I'm A Transgender Woman - These Are My Favourite Inclusive Fashion Brands

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"It's high-time the fashion industry started dressing queer people with more care and intention," says writer Nicky Josephine. "These three designers are leading the conversation."

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Need to explicitly explain why you're using certain research methods:

Case studies, surveys, observations, interviews, primary & secondary research, quantitative & qualitative data, data analysis procedures, research ethics and regulations

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As Pride Month draws to a close, we want to let you know that we're proud of you. For being who you are and sharing your light, no matter how hard it may be sometimes.

We all know that can be even more difficult if you are part of the LGBTQ+ community.

The riots may have stopped many decades ago, and equality laws may have been passed. But the fight isn't over yet. In many ways, prejudice still continues. We see it in representation, hate crimes and the fact that gay marriage is only legal in 30 countries.
30 out of 194. (Seriously, it's scary when you see it like that!)

We want our community to know that is celebrated here, and always will be. than just what's on the surface.
And we will continue to work hard to show that to the world.

Yes - we love our Female Family, every single person in it.

But to us, it means so much

We're building a community that is loving, accepting and always down to cheer someone on.(Really loudly sometimes, with a few too many 'yaaaaas's!)

We're celebrating femininity in of its forms, without constraints of gender or stereotypes.
But always with an open heart and mind.

After all, loves to Lounge.
And everyone deserves to love - and be - whoever they want and truly are.

Check out some of our gooooorgeous Female Family members, who also happen to be part of the LGBTQ+ community.

And don't forget to share the love!

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This Pride Month | We're proud of you...

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As Pride Month draws to a close, we want to let you know that we're proud of you. For being who you are and sharing your light, no matter how hard it may be sometimes. We all know that can be even more difficult if you are part of the LGBTQ+ community.

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Lack of products for trans people, lack of inclusive binders/shapewear

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Lounge well an established UK brand to create a new core collection for trans people/ community as their is a lack of products in popular brands

long term soultion

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Trans/Queer/genderfluid/ non binary

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The debate on whether athleisure qualifies as "fashion"-or even "real clothing" at all-feels pretty silly these days, if not straight-up antiquated. We've moved on from asking if leggings are appropriate for an overnight flight to spending all of our waking hours in some version of stretchy pants. We even conduct our most important Zoom meetings in them, albeit safely out of frame. Unsurprisingly, loungewear is among the only apparel category seeing a rise in demand amid the COVID-19 pandemic. Two weeks ago, NPR reported that spending on regular clothing and accessories has fallen 79%, but retailers are reporting major spikes in searches for sweatpants and hoodies. As the New York Times bluntly put it in an e-commerce report: "It's hard to sell clothes, other than leggings and sweatpants."

There's a reason we've never connected loungewear with fashion or considered it part of our actual style. For most of us pre-COVID, leggings and sweatpants were merely the soft clothes we changed into after work, the worn-out or baggy things we'd never dream of wearing in the "real world." Now, of course, that liberating feeling of ripping off your suit and wrapping yourself in fleece isn't even happening: Our entire day is spent in a comfy, cozy dream state. Understandably, it's inspiring us to up our loungewear game-if not for the benefit of our colleagues on Zoom, then at least for our own productivity. It's true that we work smarter and perform better when we feel put together, a concept that contradicts the very point of loungewear. But we're finding there's a difference between a stained gray hoodie and an outfit-yes, outfit -that's both exceedingly comfortable and surprisingly elegant.

Ashley Merrill was early to that realization when she launched her Los Angeles label Lunya back in 2014. Premised on "reinventing sleepwear for the modern woman," it began with her own needs: One day she realized that her loungewear consisted of rolled-up shorts and her husband's college T-shirt, but the alternatives out there-flimsy camisoles, matching pajama sets, overly girly nightgowns-didn't appeal. Lunya's simple, considered aesthetic fills that void with its gently oversized tees, ribbed leggings, seamless bras, draped joggers, and alpaca pullovers, all in muted shades of charcoal, ivory, navy, and blush. You wouldn't think twice about wearing them for a video presentation, which explains why Lunya saw such a major boost in sales last month. In the six years before the pandemic, those pieces served to simply upgrade at-home experiences: watching movies on the couch, cooking dinner, relaxing over a glass of wine. Merrill was interested in how women dress that version of themselves, when they're in their own spaces and (probably) aren't Instagramming their outfits.

She couldn't have anticipated the pandemic, but she did anticipate that we'd be spending more time at home. "My theory has always been that the world is moving into more comfortable clothes," she says. "I think if you look at what technology does on a macro scale, it enables much more efficiency. It enables you to watch the best TV at home, to have food from your favorite restaurant delivered to your door, and now that we've gotten over a lot of communication hurdles, we're very comfortable having our conversations over Google Hangouts or Zoom. We've been forced to learn new competencies that we won't soon forget, and what that does is [eliminate] the need to physically show up somewhere," she continues. "I think working from home is going to become so much more common, and COVID just accelerated the inevitable. People may not completely move away from cities, but we'll be able to move further from them. If we're working remotely and don't have a daily commute, or we just go to the office less frequently, suddenly it opens up that house that's two hours away. Even in terms of finding talent [or applying for jobs], it's really hard when you're limited to a geographic area. Once you remove those boundaries, it becomes better for everyone. Over the long term, our home will become much more the center of our world, because we have all of these new options opened up for us."

The cozy relationship between technology and comfort isn't new-consider the hoodie-and-jeans uniform of Mark Zuckerberg and his Silicon Valley disciples-but perhaps they've become more inversely related. As technology gets more advanced, our clothes become less so: They're comfier, simpler in design, less public-facing. That isn't to say we're going to devolve into ribbed-knit cocoons; loungewear should be as cleverly designed as our "outside" clothes. Lunya's certainly is.

The silk separates are machine washable; shorts and joggers come with no-twist elastic waistbands; leggings have pockets for your phone and anti-chafe seams; and loose tanks feature underarm panels to avoid nip slips or spillage. Lunya's fabrics are smart too, merging natural fibers with modern technology, from cool-touch cotton to " Restore Pima," a blend of cotton and celliant polyester that transforms your body's heat into infrared energy to increase blood flow and boost cell oxygenation. We're probably a few years out from truly high-tech clothing, but it's easy to see Lunya venturing further into that space with clothes that help you sleep better or soothe your muscles.

All to say, while traditional fashion companies are overhauling their businesses and struggling to stay afloat, Lunya has little to fix. "We're going to go deeper in what we do, for sure," Merrill says. She's released new collections in lockdown, like breezy linen-silk jumpsuits and shirts, and says she hopes to introduce more options to serve a wider group of people in the future. (On that note, Lunya does have a men's counterpart, Lahgo, for guys who are interested.)

"Our clothes are already so finely tuned for this, so we're focusing on things that are less visible to the consumer, like shortening factory lead times to help us be more reactive, hold less inventory, and ultimately create less waste," Merrill says. "Right now, I can get most of my product within two months, and some within seven days, so I can almost produce on demand. We need to move toward delivering things to the consumer when they really want them. I think you're going to see a lot of brands working on that, because as wholesale becomes a smaller piece of the pie and brands take on the responsibility of carrying their own inventory [through direct-to-consumer sales], they'll have to improve their buying habits to avoid waste. That's the ideal scenario, for the planet and for your business."

One consumer-facing change Lunya has made in the past two months is a new push into social responsibility, like gifting pajamas to health care workers and a new initiative that supports job-retraining programs. Later this year, Lunya will also roll out a "vote from bed" campaign to help people apply for absentee ballots for the 2020 election. Come November, COVID-19 will still be very much a part of our reality, and plenty of Americans won't feel comfortable going to the polls. Trump's all-caps tweets denouncing mail-in voting-warning that it could lead to "massive fraud and abuse"-further underscore the need to get people registered. "We need to create the opportunity for people to have their voices heard," Merrill says. "This is another area where we can lean in, and I'm excited about this new [social] consciousness in business. I think we're all learning that it isn't just about profit, it's about how you can move the needle in so many ways. Maybe it's by creating a place that's an example of women thriving in business, or it's helping people reset their prioritization on what matters in life...These are meaningful things you get to be a part of as a leader."

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Loungewear Is Suddenly All-Day-Wear-And Lunya Was Ready for It

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The debate on whether athleisure qualifies as "fashion"-or even "real clothing" at all-feels pretty silly these days, if not straight-up antiquated. We've moved on from asking if leggings are appropriate for an overnight flight to spending all of our waking hours in some version of stretchy pants.

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What Is Binding In Fashion, Tools, and Basics of Binding in Fashion

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What is binding in fashion, basically the term "binding" is used to describe a narrow fabric strip sewn onto a finished product's border. It smooths over uneven areas and prevents them from fraying by covering up the edges.

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Road Test: I tried five different binders, here's how it went

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"Start slow when you bind, and take it off and stretch when you feel like you need it. Gender euphoria is important, but so is your health."

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Chest compression, but make it fashion

I declare a summertime détente: No longer shall I partake in the quirky-flamingo-or-pineapple-print-or-maybe-just-a-shitload-of-little-anchors short-sleeve button-down arms race. I can't keep up. Until October rolls around, I'm exclusively wearing white undershirts. And while I'm choosing to frame my 24/7 white T-shirt policy as "A Style Choice" instead of "Being Lazy," I'm also hyper-aware that there's an undershirt-forward summer style much more powerful than my bum-ass James Dean impression: Binders as a shirt.

I invite you to run a quick Twitter search for the phrase " binder as a shirt ," or its equally powerful relative, " binder as a crop top ." Both searches result in dozens and dozens of pictures of trans, non-binary or otherwise gender-expansive people sporting chest binders as the central part of their ensemble. And while this isn't an exclusively warm-weather phenomenon, the summertime definitely increases the frequency with which folks who regularly bind opt to shed their topmost layers in favor of displaying the minimum-effective amount of clothing required to appear in public .

For those who have made it this far in life without knowing what a binder is, I'm defining it as an item of clothing specifically designed to make one's upper body appear more flat. Essentially, a binder compresses (or um, ) a person's chest to reduce the appearance of breasts. If you're wondering why a person would do such a thing, Cate AriMelo Wood, the marketing associate and project lead for popular binder dispensary gc2b , has some thoughts. "I believe our customers' goals range greatly, from quieting chest dysphoria to finally being able to wear a button-down shirt to aiding in 'passing' to feel more safe out in the world," Wood explains.

Many of gc2b's clientele - and binder-wearers in general - are somewhere on the transmasculine part of the spectrum and/or experiencing dysphoria around the appearance of their chest. For some, binders can help alleviate that dysphoria, or make passing a bit easier.

That binders are typically used to minimize unwanted contours, or feelings about said contours, makes people wearing them as a statement all the more wonderful. "Why yes, I wearing this chest-concealing tank top" is a terrific, counterintuitive gesture, one that can transform something often done covertly into a symbol of pride - or at least an obvious marker of membership in the tribe of People Who Bind. In any case, it's much cooler than my white T-shirt thing.

Wood and the team at gc2b have noticed the trend as well: " We're also finding more and more people are proud to be binding and proud to be visible, and will even show them off as a statement, which is really beautiful to witness."

Milo is among those folks proudly wearing their binder as both their only torso coverment and as a means to muddy their gender presentation. "I love wearing crop tops as a general rule, and I think it's fun to bend the rules of clothes," they explain. "It feels like a very natural middle ground for presentation for me. Binders are, of course, transmasc coded, and crop tops are feminine coded." Therefore, they add, wearing a fusion of both "lines up really well with wanting to be perceived as queer and genderless."

Endlessly versatile, the binder-as-shirt look can be deployed in many ways. Aiding in one's gender expression, yes, and as a confidence booster, yes, but lest we forget its ability to also serve as a sartorial flip of the bird to haters (past, present and future). As Fallon, another proud member of the binder crop-top collective, puts it, "The binder and jeans look is very empowering to me. It reminds me that no one's opinions or hate can affect me if I don't let them. So I mostly do it for self-validation, and maybe as a subtle 'F You' to the bigots we all have to deal with."

An added bonus to the bountiful blessings this look bestows? In the words of , if you know, you know. "Most people don't notice a difference between a binder and a crop top," explains Fallon. "But I'll get nods or winks of approval from passing queer people from time to time." Like any good flag, those who are meant to get it, get it. As for those who don't, Milo expresses a similar assurance: "Even though I'm almost entirely sure it's just read as a plain black crop top, it does make me feel more masculine than if I wore any other crop top."

So, is there any downside? Well, maybe. Earlier this summer, the New York Times , a publication with an of covering anything related to trans lives, published a controversial piece on binding that asked if it was "worth the risks" for queer and trans youth. (While there's definitely a conversation to be had around safe binding practices, that conversation probably shouldn't include voices from known anti-trans hate groups like 4thWaveNow.) The piece was met with swift backlash from the trans community, allies and people with basic critical thinking faculties, to which the paper responded with a half-hearted admission that its piece certainly "prompted a discussion" about binding practices, wedged in at the top of a follow-up piece featuring the voices and experiences of actual human people who bind.

As I mentioned, it's no secret that binding, if done improperly, can pose some health risks, which range from uncomfortable to dangerous. Sites like gc2b have safety tips for this exact reason. Unfortunately, though, there isn't a lot of scientific research out there to definitively tell us how binding impacts bodies - at least not yet.

In 2014, Binding Health Project (BHP), a research study started by a group of then-students of medicine and public health at Boston University, conducted a survey of 1,800 transmasculine people to learn about the potential health impacts of binding.

While I can't share the report, which is still being refined before its public release (I was given a sneak peek), I can tell you this much: The potential health hazards posed by binding improperly should be weighed against the safety risks that binders can mitigate. Or better put, because binding can aid transmasculine people in "passing," they can keep them physically safe in environments where being read as male could leave them open to harassment and/or violence. (Remember ? A common theme throughout was that binding changed - and in some cases, saved - lives.)

For now, though, as more medical research is performed and synthesized to provide better binding safety guidelines, we're just going to have to do with binders what human beings do with every other item of clothing: Trust people to make decisions for themselves with the information they have - and look good while doing so.

Recommended Reading

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Trans People Are Proudly Wearing Their Chest Binders as Stylish Outerwear

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I declare a summertime détente: No longer shall I partake in the quirky-flamingo-or-pineapple-print-or-maybe-just-a-shitload-of-little-anchors short-sleeve button-down arms race. I can't keep up. Until October rolls around,...

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Yanie Durocher; founder of POMPOM Creative focused on lifestyle brands for China's marketplace for PR/Social/Content. IG @YanieYanson
Every crisis generates innovation. Just look at the fashion industry. Even in the past, some of the best designs and concepts came out of a crisis.

Chanel created its womenswear couture pieces from foraged textiles when the Second World War made materials scarce, making a shift from tight corsets to a more comfortable style.
Has the comfort-over-fashion era begun?
The Covid-19 crisis will most likely lead to a new shift in fashion, too.

Quarantine has made people rediscover the joy of staying inside. While this may sound like bad news, it also means that this period has accelerated the rise of a brand new apparel category: loungewear.

As stated in Luxiders, "the threat that this pandemic holds over our heads is a call to action for the fashion industry to slow down, move away from mass production and change direction, before an even larger problem is at hand."

While the global lockdown made consumers prefer loungewear, with users staying home for long periods of time and spending less money, retailers can expect home wardrobes to become the new trend.

In fact, the global tracksuits market is anticipated to rise between 2020 and 2026, and China is already seeing a change. For example, as reported by Fashion Network, Uniqlo is already seeing higher operating profits due to China's economic comeback and strong demand for home clothes. The same article reports that Fast Retailing, the company that runs about 800 Uniqlo stores in mainland China, is already on track to meet its forecast for the year.

As the lockdown has offered stylists and designers the opportunity to go back to their drawing boards, the new indoor production definitely needs a rethinking.

Brands need to fit this season's situation by producing multi-purpose pieces, tailored to different daily needs. With this in mind, brands should focus also on beauty and aesthetics, as consumers still call for formality.

Truth is, when Anna Wintour showed herself in a picture wearing track pants in her home office, everybody got clear that this wasn't a passing trend.
A Growing Market: Social Media and A China Perspective
In the past months, even the most sophisticated brands have added a loungewear section to their collections and products, highlighting this as a new market trend.

The home-wear market is inevitably growing: i-D's January Rihannazine featured Gigi Hadid in her loungewear, and Kim Kardashian-West worked loungewear into her SKIMs brand.

Thing is the "Netflix & Chill" generation, making people less about FOMO (fear of missing out) and more about JOMO - the joy of missing out.

Loungewear has reached unexpected stardom across social media.

While Instagram meme accounts are featuring posts about never wanting to go out and avoiding socializing, people are happy to label themselves "insiders" by simply staying in versus going out. More importantly, with its relaxed shapes, loungewear naturally adapts to a genderless product idea, making it hit diverse trends of the moment.

Furthermore, according to , on the Chinese micro-blogging platform Weibo, #OnePajamaForTheWholeDay was the most searched hashtag during the Chinese New Year period.

Soon, hashtags like #StayingInFashionGuide started to pop up, while the most influential voices in fashion and media like Vogue China started public Stay-In Style manuals on WeChat.

According to Bloomberg, "the Asia Pacific region is expected to experience lucrative growth during the forecast period owing to the rapid rise of the real estate industry, and the increase in consumer spending on home interior designing and household furnishing. China is a key market for homeware in APAC."

With Chinese consumers becoming more settled with home shopping, what are the long-term prospects for luxury retail?

In terms of PR and social media, fashion marketers and agencies should work on hook points around diverse ways to endorse this new sustainable movement. But more importantly, they should also consider digging deeper into the future of sustainable textiles with multi-functional purposes. One way to do this is to connect with key media, influencers, institutions and global summits that support this cause while working on different solutions in terms of collaborations with clients and partners.

Home reclusion has definitely made notable shifts in consumers' dressing habits. Even though the for-comfort trend was accelerating even before the pandemic, it received a notable boost in 2020.

The longer time spent at home, along with the growing trend of home training and yoga classes, has led consumers to stock up on workout apparel and accessories.

People in China are increasingly health- and safety-conscious, with their interest in health extending beyond food and into other product categories - even apparel. It's no surprise that the new loungewear trend is starting from there, as websites like Alibaba overflow with multiple home-wear products.

Truth is, during the pandemic, we all understood the importance of quality time spent at home. We'll probably shift this mindset to the fashion environment, too.

We all might end up with easy-to-wear, durable, multi-purpose clothes that are able to accompany us through different events of our life, rather than wasting precious moments over a flimsy cross-over dress.

Nevertheless, home-wear is a great option for the slow future of fashion, since a well-made piece of loungewear can be worn outside too, becoming a better choice for the environment by producing less waste.

While staying in is becoming the new going out, loungewear may be a real challenge for every luxury fashion brand, as they'll have to combine the raising market requests of comfort, adaptability, sustainability and aesthetics.

It's time for fashion houses to start rethinking their visions and adapt to the new consumers' habits and perspectives in order to ride the newest fashion trend wave.

Forbes Agency Council is an invitation-only community for executives in successful public relations, media strategy, creative and advertising agencies. Do I qualify?

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Council Post: Riding The Loungewear Wave After Covid-19

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Yanie Durocher; founder of POMPOM Creative focused on lifestyle brands for China's marketplace for PR/Social/Content. IG @YanieYanson Every crisis generates innovation. Just look at the fashion industry. Even in the past, some of the best designs and concepts came out of a crisis.

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Many transgender and non-binary people wear specific types of clothing or accessories to change how their body appears. For example, some people wear binders to flatten their chest, or prosthetic breasts to create a rounder chest. Some people who do not have access to - or cannot wear - specialized clothing, wear extra layers or baggy clothing to hide their body. While our summers in Maine are short, the hot and humid days can be exceptionally challenging for people who depend on extra padded or compressing layers of clothing, or who hide their bodies through thick clothing.

So, why do individuals wear clothing that compromise their well-being in the summer? One reason is for mitigating the effects of Gender Dysphoria. Gender dysphoria is a diagnosable medical condition in which an individual has a strong and persistent discomfort about their sex assigned at birth. To be diagnosed, the individual must show clinically significant distress or impairment in social, occupational, or other important areas of functioning. The term also refers to the anxiety and/or discomfort a person experiences regarding their sex assigned at birth, whether or not they have been diagnosed with the condition.

One person we talked to described the feelings of gender dysphoria as "When I think about being seen as a woman because of my body, it makes me feel nauseous. Literally makes my stomach churn, and my chest tightens and it's hard to breathe. I avoid looking at my body, and anything that forces me to acknowledge that I have a body that is seen as female puts me into a state of panic. Sometimes it feels like my skin is crawling, and it makes me feel so overwhelmed with how bad it feels that it makes me freeze. I know some people feel like this all the time, but for me, I only feel that way when I'm reminded that other people see me as female when that is not how I actually feel. Wearing a binder and more baggy pants helps me feel like my body is not betraying me."

If wearing t-shirts or more lightweight clothing does not feel an option for you this summer, here are some ways to keep you healthy and safe:

Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. The more we sweat the more water we need to be drinking. While drinking water is important 365 days, it is also crucial for keeping your body healthy in the summer months. Keep a water bottle on hand so you can guarantee you stay hydrated!

Keep yourself cool in the shade, air conditioning or by a fan if layering is part of your summer attire. Your safety is top priority and keeping yourself out of the sun for long periods of time will be the most helpful action you can take this summer.

Take breaks from your binder. Take a few minutes to stretch, drop your shoulders, and massage any tight muscles. Check for any skin irritations.

If binding in the summertime, it is important to do it safely. Remember, do not wear a binder while swimming unless the binder is specifically designed to use in the water. Swim binders are generally made of nylon and spandex and can be purchased through , Underworks , Shapeshifters , and . When wearing a binder swimming have a designated binder for swimming only. Once you are done swimming, change your binder for a dry one! It is not recommended to wear a binder for more than 10 hours a day and never use ace bandages or tape (duck tape, masking tape, scotch tape, etc.) to bind with.

If you are interested in a binder. OUT Maine has a free binder program for youth ages 14-22. For more information, please visit our !

If you are worried about a young person's physical safety due to the clothing they are wearing and the heat, do not force them to change. Offer them a shady or air conditioned place to be, and make sure they are drinking enough water. Do not force them to participate in physical activities if that is not safe or comfortable for them to do.

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Many transgender and non-binary people wear specific types of clothing or accessories to change how their body appears. For example, some people wear binders to flatten their chest, or prosthetic breasts to create a rounder chest. Some people who do not have access to - or cannot wear - specialized clothing, wear extra layers or baggy clothing to hide their body.

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Buying lingerie can be a tricky task. However, shopping for underwear as a transgender woman is about more than just finding a set you like the look of.

Depending on how far along you are in your transition and how comfortable you are with going into a store to be fitted, shopping online for trans lingerie is often the easiest option, and that's okay.

At Lounge, we're committed to creating an inclusive and diverse space. Our underwear is designed to empower everyone and encourage all of our Loungers to embrace their beauty in their purest form.

Explore our style guide to help you find your perfect Lounge fit and discover the best bras for trans women.

FINDING YOUR PERFECT FIT

When shopping for new underwear, we would always recommend that you check your bra size, as there's nothing worse than the pain of a poorly fitting bra, especially when it's so quick to fix!

Whether this is your very first time measuring your bra size or you think your cup size may have changed, our blog on How To Measure Your Bra Size At Home will help you get cupped up and ready.

If you're still a bit unsure whether you're using the right technique (don't worry, girls, we know it can be a bit tricky), our Fitting Room has been designed so you can find your perfect Lounge fit and feel.

It's important to consider that your build is likely to be different to that of a cis woman. Trans women often have broader rib cages as well as a firmer chest and upper torso, so we recommend that you opt for a larger band size than what you measure as. If not, you can always buy bra extenders, as we wouldn't want you to miss out on any of our Lounge luxuries!

THINGS TO BE MINDFUL OF WHEN SHOPPING FOR TRANSGENDER LINGERIE

Here at Lounge, we want to make shopping a seamless and enjoyable experience for all of our Loungers.

We've collated a list of all the things you need to be mindful of when shopping for underwear as a trans woman.

Shop for bras or bodysuits with adjustable straps, as these will accommodate your height and torso length better. Luckily for you, all of our bras have adjustable straps. You're welcome, Loungers!

Non wired bras (particularly bralettes) may be the most comfortable, as wearing wired bras following chest surgery may cause discomfort.

High waisted thongs or briefs will be your best friend, as they tend to be more figure-hugging. Try our Chic Balcony Thong or our Floral Mesh styles.

Opt for underwear sets with more breathable fabrics so you're Lounging in comfort all day, every day. Try our classic Bamboo Triangle Collection - it's truly perfect.

THE BEST BRAS FOR TRANS WOMEN

Don't worry, Loungers, we get that you may feel a bit overwhelmed by the number of bra styles there are. If you want the lowdown on Bra Styles 101, head to our blog.

For now, check out the best underwear styles for trans women below.

BRALETTES

Our Bralettes are soft, supple and endlessly supportive. Whether you're still transitioning or already there, nothing beats a bit of Lounge comfort. These figure hugging styles frame your shape perfectly.

TRIANGLE

Our signature Triangle Collection combines comfort and style in every. single. way with its classic triangle fit and soft bamboo fabrications.

We love hearing about how Lounge makes you feel and it fills us with so much pride and joy knowing that you Lounge just as much as we do!

We caught up with some members of our Female Family to share their experiences of wearing Lounge as a transgender woman...
What has your experience been like with working with Lounge Underwear?
My experience working with Lounge has been incredible! Working with such a huge brand as a trans woman feels great. They have always been really supportive of me and my story and have let me tell that to their followers and mine through their products.

It's always been hard for me to feel confident in underwear, but when I tried my first Lounge set on I felt instantly more confident, powerful and proud of my body.
Has Lounge Underwear helped you in any way?
Lounge has definitely helped me gain more confidence in myself. Wearing their underwear sets makes me feel my best as they're so flattering, they have given me the confidence to upload photos in underwear and they make me feel more comfortable and proud to be myself.

Before I worked with Lounge, I didn't feel as confident as I do now and I could never find an underwear set that really flattered my body, so I can't thank Lounge and the whole team enough for always being a dream to work with!
What is your favourite Lounge product?
My favourite product is the Sustainable Luxe Balcony Set! I love the way it fits and the emerald colour.

Shopping for underwear should always be a fun and empowering experience. With Lounge, you know that's what you're going to get.

Find your perfect fit now. Remember, there is no one quite like you.

We love you, Loungers.

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We understand shopping for underwear as a trans woman can be a challenge. Find your perfect Lounge fit with our guide to shopping trans lingerie. Read now.

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We caught up with influencer, Bel Priestley, in support of Pride Month to chat all things self love, Pride Month and her transgender journey. Read the blog now.

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All of our chest binders in one place. Our chest binders are designed and made to be comfortable and effective. We use premium fabrics and superior construction to make sure our chest binders compress optimally without putting unnecessary pressure on your body. Wearing the right size chest binder is important.

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Chest Binders are an undergarment that helps flatten the chest. For more information go to our Wearing a Binder Safely page.

Trans Shop UK is a trans run online-store that sells Underworks binders from the UK. Parcels are unbranded and in plain packaging.

If there are any other Underworks binders that you want then please email us at UKTransShop@gmail.com and we can order them for you.

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Chest Binders are an undergarment that helps flatten the chest. For more information go to our Wearing a Binder Safely page. Trans Shop UK is a trans run online-store that sells Underworks binders from the UK. Parcels are unbranded and in plain packaging.

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gc2b provides high quality chest binders at an affordable price. Our products have been designed using an extensive and thorough process. gc2b binders feature our patented front and back, double panel, mixed material design to construct a flat appearance through superior tissue distribution and comfortable compression.

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THE ORIGINAL CHEST BINDERS DESIGNEDBY TRANS PEOPLE, FOR TRANS PEOPLE gc2b provides high quality chest binders at an affordable price. Our products have been designed using an extensive and thorough process. gc2b binders feature our patented front and back, double panel, mixed material design to construct a flat appeara

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Are you looking for a binder to flatten your chest or to bind your breasts? UNTAG has a product range with over fifteen different kinds of chest binders. Whether you're looking for a standard chest binder, a strapless binder, a binder for special use such as a sports bra binder or a swim binder, UNTAG has got you covered. We also offer binders for big chests.

In addition to the regular binders, UNTAG designs binders especially for sports. These sports bra binders are somewhat shorter than the regular binders and have an extra low-cut back. The low-cut back prevents friction and excessive sweating.

What is a chest binder?

A binder, also known as a chest binder, FtM binder, binder bra, trans binder, or breast binder, is a piece of shaping underwear which is used to effectively and painlessly flatten the chest. Binders, like an undershirt or top, are often made of elastic material and fit tightly around the upper body. It spreads the breast mass and pushes them flat against the chest. You can use a binder for various reasons: you identify as trans, nonbinary, gender fluid, genderqueer, you want to look less feminine as a trans man or transgender person, you do cosplay or cross-dressing, but also for theater actors a chest binder can offer a solution for creating a character with a more masculine look. Note that chest binding is not without health risks!

How to put on a chest binder?

Putting on a binder can be difficult sometimes due to the stiffness of the material. Therefore buying the correct size is of great importance. A binder can be put on in two ways; either over your head or over your legs. After you put the binder in place, you place the breasts in the correct position. The right position would be when the breasts lie towards the side and/or the armpits. Binding breasts can be harmful if not done in the correct way.

What should you pay attention to when buying a chest binder?

There are a few points of attention when you are buying a FtM binder or breast binder. UNTAG advises you to look carefully at the size and buy a well-fitting binder, especially to not buy a too small binder. People often think they should buy the smallest binder possible for the most effective breast binding, but this is certainly not true. When the binder is too small or of poor quality, it might damage your skin or it might cause problems with your breathing. In the worst case, you can bruise your ribs when you bind your breasts with duct tape or bandages. A correct size binder will fit like a second skin around your body. If you are uncomfortable with wearing very tight items like binders, perhaps try binder tape (also known as trans tape).

How long can you wear a binder?

UNTAG advises to gradually build up the time you are wearing a binder. Start off with 2 hours, then 4 and eventually you can wear the binder for up to 8 hours. UNTAG advises to never wear a binder for longer than 8 hours, as the lungs need to be given room to breathe properly. Don't sleep with a trans binder or ftm top, as this can negatively impact your breathing. If you are having trouble breathing or are experiencing other physical symptoms when wearing the binder, we advise you to take the binder off.

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The best & Safest Chest Binders. Unique Material | UNTAG

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A big collection of 16 different comfortable Chest binders for Non-binary, FTM & LGBT ✓Since 2004 ✓Worldwide fast shipping ✓High Quality ✓Good service

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Truekind® Supportive Comfort Wireless Shaping Bra

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This Wireless Shaping Bra will be a top drawer favorite all year round as the adjustable hook & eye closure accommodates breast size changes. Shop now!

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Transgender and gender nonbinary people may experience gender dysphoria when they compare how they present themselves with their gender identity. Chest binding has become a popular practice to make a person's presenting gender and gender identity more compatible.

Chest binding is a process of flattening your chest to make it more male-presenting. This is a common step in the female-to-male transition. There are a variety of methods for chest binding, but practicing proper safety when chest binding is crucial.

Two of the main types of binding involve the use of fabric binders or special binding tape. Choosing the best type of binding for you will make sure you avoid complications such as breast pain, skin irritation, and infection.

Symptoms. Getting a properly sized binder will prevent complications. If your binder is too small or too tight, it can:

Restrict breathing

Irritate your skin

Break skin around the edges of the binder

Cause overheating

Bruise or fracture your ribs

Even if your symptoms aren't severe, long-term use of a poorly fitted binder can lead to chest and back pain. Change binders if you experience any pain while wearing your current binder.

Binding and underlying conditions. Because of the potential risks with chest binding, people with underlying conditions may be at risk for further complications. Consult with your doctor if you are interested in chest binding and have the following conditions:

Chest binding duration. The longer you bind, the greater the risk of injury. It's recommended that you shouldn't bind your chest for more than 8 hours per day. If you are in a scenario where you will need to keep the binder on for longer, such as at work or school, take a break and take off the binder when you go to the bathroom or another private location.

When you take the binder off at the end of the day, breathe deeply several times to ensure you aren't experiencing any pain and to let your muscles stretch. It's recommended that you take at least 1 day off a week from chest binding.

Exercise. If you intend to exercise in your binder, you should wear a larger size to provide you with room to move. Avoid going to the gym in your binder if you can. Stop immediately if you begin to experience pain while exercising in your binder.

You can also swim in your binder. They aren't waterproof, so give it plenty of time to dry out. Wearing a wet binder can lead to skin irritation.

The manufacturer of your binder will give you specific instructions on how to properly care for your binder. It's important to keep your binder clean to prevent acne, fungal infections, and other skin conditions. The same goes for you. Take extra care of the skin being covered by your binder to prevent oil build-up and irritation.

There are several ways to bind your chest. Some are safer, more comfortable, or more effective. The most popular method of chest binding is with a dedicated binder.

Binder. A binder is a piece of compression clothing that flattens your chest down. Binders come in a half-length (crop top style) or full-length (tank top style). The style you choose depends on your own preference and comfort. ‌

Kinetic tape. This type of medical tape is for your skin and can be used to bind your chest. Do not use other tapes or binders, such as duct tape or plastic wrap. Products not meant for use on your skin can cause irritation and do significant damage to your skin. If you have sensitive skin, you may experience irritation from binding tapes.

Sports bra. As an alternative to a dedicated binder, a good sports bra with high compression can serve as a binder. Sports bras won't provide as much compression as a binder but can be a stepping stone to binding later.

One of the most important parts of selecting the right binder for you is getting the correct size. If it's too big, it won't compress enough. If it's too small, it can be uncomfortable and may damage your physical health. Trusted vendors provide sizing guides and measuring tips to ensure you get a properly sized binder.

Chest binders and trans tape can be purchased from a variety of online vendors. Choose a reputable binder vendor rather than a big online retailer because they can provide adequate resources for use.

There are also nonprofit organizations such as Genderbands that allow people to receive free binders and educational materials about chest binding.

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Chest binding is a method of flattening the chest to be more male-presenting. Learn about the different types, the risks involved, and more.

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What is a Chest Binder?

Have you ever wondered what a chest binder is and what role it plays in the lives of many transgender and nonbinary? Well, you're not alone! Let's dive into the world of chest binders and discover why they're more than just clothing for so many people.

Commercial chest binders are one of the chest binding methods, which is a garment designed to compress and flatten the chest. It's a crucial tool for many transgender men and nonbinary individuals who are seeking a more masculine or non-gendered appearance. But it's not just about changing how one looks. Binders are potent tools for affirming one's gender identity, providing a sense of alignment and comfort with one's body, and significantly alleviating feelings of gender dysphoria.

For a lot of transgender and non-binary people, a binder is not just fabric and stitching. It's a gateway to expressing their true selves. Imagine looking in the mirror and feeling a wave of relief and recognition, seeing the person on the outside reflecting who you are on the inside. That's what a chest binder can do. It's not about concealing who you are but revealing your true identity. For many, this can be a profound step in reducing the distress and discomfort associated with gender dysphoria, allowing them to feel more at peace with their bodies.

How Does the Chest Binder Work?

Chest binders work by applying an even pressure across the chest area. However, the key lies in understanding the nature of breast tissue, which primarily consists of fat and glandular components. Contrary to what some might assume, this tissue cannot be significantly reduced in volume by pressure. Therefore, the role of a chest binder is not to decrease the chest size by compression but to redistribute the existing tissue.

Wearing a chest binder doesn't shrink the breast tissue; instead, it evenly disperses this tissue across the chest, resulting in a flatter appearance. This redistribution is gentle yet effective, ensuring the flattening effect without causing harm or significant discomfort.

However, many brands nowadays do not understand these principles and instead prioritize higher pressure, which can often be the most detrimental to users.

Types of Binders

As you begin your quest to find a suitable chest binder, it is essential to understand the different types available and how they cater to various needs and preferences. This section of the guide will explore the different types of commercial binders, including full-length and half-length options, as well as pullover styles and those with closures such as zippers, hooks, or Velcro. We will also discuss the pros and cons of each type, with a particular focus on what is most suitable for young individuals with active lifestyles.

Full-Length vs. Half-Length Binders

The primary difference between full-length and half-length commercial binders lies in their coverage. Full-length binders extend further down the torso, often reaching the hips. They can provide more uniform compression and may also help in smoothing out the appearance of the waist and hips, which some find beneficial for their body image. However, full-length binders might feel too restrictive or hot for more active individuals or those in warmer climates.

On the other hand, half-length binders, also known as crop top binders, end around the ribcage or mid-torso. These are generally more breathable and allow for greater mobility, making them a favored choice for those who are physically active or prefer less coverage. They're also easier to put on and take off, which can be a significant consideration for daily use.

There is no significant difference in the function of chest position between these two types of binders.

Pullover vs. Closure (Zipper vs. Hook vs. Velcro)

Pullover Binders

Pullover binders are the most common type and are worn similarly to a tank top. Despite their seemingly simple structure, they require a high level of expertise from manufacturers in terms of pressure management and balance. These binders offer the best user experience among all chest binder types because they lack additional structures like hooks, zippers, or velcro. This absence of extra components means there's less risk of localized excessive pressure or skin abrasion, which is crucial. Additionally, the non-adjustable nature of pullover binders prevents potential injury from incorrect self-adjustment of pressure.

Closure Binders

As the name suggests, closure binders have fastenings (like hooks, zippers, or velcro) on the front or side. They are more user-friendly for individuals with limited mobility (such as those with shoulder or neck movement restrictions) due to their open structure. However, any type of closure increases the thickness and hardness of the binder in that area. Side closure binders, in particular, can press uncomfortably against the ribs, posing comfort issues and safety risks. Unless necessary, they are not recommended.

Zipper vs. Hook vs. Velcro

Zipper: Zippers can be challenging to close due to the need to overcome the binder's elasticity. The chain structure and material hardness of zippers can press against the skin during upper body movement. Durability is also a consideration with zippers.

Hook: Hook closures can be cumbersome to wear, requiring individual hooks to be fastened, and they are prone to be fastened incorrectly, especially with side closure binders. Many hook closure binders have multiple rows of hooks, making the hook area large and thick, which can be uncomfortable and unhealthy for the chest or rib area.

Velcro: Velcro is the most likely to cause skin issues because one side is fuzzy, and the other has hooks. Regardless of how it's worn, one side will be against the body, potentially causing irritation and allergies. Additionally, a considerable amount of force is required to fasten a velcro binder, making it challenging to align and flatten properly. This can often result in uneven pressure distribution across the chest, which poses significant health and safety risks.

Materials: Spandex, Nylon, Cotton and other

When choosing a suitable chest binder, it is crucial to understand the different materials used and their unique properties. Each material - Spandex, Nylon, and Cotton - has advantages and drawbacks. At TheFluxion, we've tailored these materials to optimize comfort, durability, and effectiveness, creating an ideal experience for chest binder users.

Spandex: Elasticity and Comfort

Spandex is known for its remarkable elasticity, perfectly balancing compression and flexibility. This elasticity is essential in chest binders as it allows for sufficient compression to flatten the chest while ensuring the binder remains comfortable and not overly restrictive. A key benefit of Spandex is its ability to facilitate easy breathing and movement. Binders made with high-quality Spandex, like Lycra, are particularly favored at TheFluxion. Lycra's superior physical properties enhance stretch and elasticity, contributing to the binder's durability and overall comfort.

Nylon(Polyamide): Durability and Moisture-Wicking

Nylon, another common material in chest binders, stands out for its durability and moisture-wicking properties. It's particularly adept at handling sweat and maintaining its shape over time, making it less prone to sagging and warping. However, Nylon can sometimes feel rougher against the skin. To counter this, TheFluxion utilizes a finer weave of Nylon fibers. This finer weave makes the chest binder more delicate and skin-friendly, ensuring comfort without compromising the material's inherent strengths.

Cotton: Softness and Breathability

Cotton is often blended with a small amount of elastic materials to make chest binders incredibly soft and breathable. This blend is especially suitable for sensitive skin and offers unparalleled comfort for all-day wear. The ultra-fine weave of the cotton fibers used in TheFluxion binders elevates the body feel, providing an intimate experience that's gentle and comforting.

Of course, some brands use other materials, such as polyester, rubber bands, etc., but these materials are not the best choice for manufacturing Chest binders. Therefore, please consider carefully when purchasing.

TheFluxion's Special Lamination Process

At TheFluxion, we understand that each material has unique benefits and limitations. That's why we employ a unique lamination process in our chest binders. This process combines the best qualities of Spandex, Nylon, and Cotton, maximizing their advantages while minimizing the drawbacks. The result is a chest binder that offers an exceptional wearing experience, balancing stretch, breathability, and durability.

They are meticulously crafted to balance the need for a flattening effect with the need for comfort and safety. Materials such as spandex, nylon, or cotton blends provide the necessary elasticity to achieve chest tissue redistribution without compromising comfort. This design ensures that the pressure applied is sufficient for flattening but not so intense as to cause bruising, restricted breathing, or other health issues.

Sizing and Fit

Selecting the correct size and fit for a chest binder, especially for those new to chest binding. An appropriate fit is vital for comfort, safety, and effectiveness. The beginner-friendly guide will assist you in accurately measuring yourself and navigating through the sizing charts.

Understanding Sizing Guides and Charts

It's essential to read the sizing chart instructions of the specific brand you're considering carefully. The sizing charts vary among brands, and understanding how to interpret these charts correctly is vital to finding a good fit.

Common Issues in Size Charts
Read More About TheFlxuion Sizing Guide
How to Measure Yourself

Chest Measurement (Bust Size): Measure around the fullest part of your chest, typically at nipple level. Ensure the tape is snug but not too tight.

Upper Bust: Measure just above your chest, under the armpits, and over the shoulder blades.

Lower Bust (Chest Circumference): Measure directly under the bust line.

Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of your waist.

Shoulder Width: Measure from one shoulder to the other across your back.

Measurement Tips

1. Choose the Right Time: Measure yourself when you are relaxed and breathing normally. Avoid measuring right after physical activities when your body might be slightly swollen.

2. Use the Right Tools: Use a soft measuring tape for accuracy. If you don't have one, use a string or cord, mark it, and then measure the length against a ruler.

3. Stand Naturally: Stand in a relaxed posture, feet shoulder-width apart. Don't puff out your chest or suck it in.

4. Ensure Level Tape: Make sure the measuring tape is level around your body and parallel to the floor. A mirror can help check this.

5. Don't Pull Too Tight: The tape should be snug but not digging into your skin.

6. Take Multiple Measurements: To ensure accuracy, measure at least twice. If there are discrepancies, measure a third time.

The Importance of Proper Fit

An adequately fitted chest binder is essential for teenagers and growing bodies. An ill-fitting binder - too tight or too loose - can lead to discomfort, restricted breathing, or even health issues like skin irritation or rib damage. A binder that's too tight won't speed up any physical changes; it will only cause discomfort.

Moreover, your binder size might change as your body grows and changes. It's essential to re-measure yourself regularly and adjust your binder size as needed. Remember, the right fit should feel snug and provide the desired flattening effect without causing pain, difficulty in breathing, or limiting your range of motion.

Taking the time to accurately measure yourself and understand sizing charts is vital in selecting a chest binder. A proper fit ensures comfort and effectiveness and maintains your health and safety. As you grow and your body changes, stay attentive to how your binder fits and make adjustments as necessary. Your comfort and health are paramount in this journey of self-expression and affirmation.

Safety Considerations

Understanding the safety considerations of chest binding is not only crucial for the general user but is particularly vital for those whose bodies are still in their developmental stages. Awareness of potential side effects and possessing knowledge of how to bind safely are indispensable elements in minimizing risks associated with chest binding.

Wearing a chest binder doesn't automatically result in health problems; much hinges on the binder's pressure and the wearer's individual response. The human body is capable of withstanding a degree of compression, akin to the effects of sports compression garments, which can be beneficial if applied correctly. The key to harnessing these benefits while minimizing risks lies in two aspects: the chest binder's design and the user's choices.

Manufacturers have a significant responsibility to research and define a safe compression range. They need to design binders that effectively flatten the chest without exerting excessive pressure, which could lead to health issues. This involves using materials that offer the right balance between compression and flexibility, ensuring safety and comfort.

For users, selecting an appropriate brand and size is crucial. A binder should fit well - snug but not overly tight, allowing for normal breathing and movement. It's also important for individuals to recognize their unique body responses and make adjustments as needed.

While choosing a well-designed binder and the right size doesn't guarantee absolute safety, due to individual differences, it substantially lowers the risk of adverse effects.

General Safety Considerations

Chest binding, when not executed correctly, can lead to a variety of health complications. These risks include:

Special Considerations for Developing Bodies

For younger users, particularly those in their teenage years, the above risks can have more significant effects. Their skin tends to be more sensitive, making the choice of a correctly fitting binder made from suitable materials even more crucial. Furthermore, continuous and improper binding during these formative years can have a lasting impact on their skeletal and respiratory systems.

1. Effect of Body Development on Sizing and Health: One of the primary concerns is choosing a chest binder that is not overly tight. For growing bodies, it's crucial to acknowledge that their dimensions are continually changing. Selecting a binder that's too tight could not only be uncomfortable but also potentially harmful to health. It could constrict natural growth and development, leading to complications. Therefore, it's important to opt for a binder that offers sufficient compression without being restrictive. Regularly reassessing the fit of the binder and adjusting the size as the body grows is essential to avoid discomfort and health risks.

2. Sweating and Skin Sensitivity: Younger individuals often have more sensitive skin compared to adults. This sensitivity necessitates the selection of a chest binder made from breathable materials. A more breathable binder helps in managing sweat, which is particularly important to prevent skin irritation, rashes, and discomfort. Binders made from materials that allow air circulation helps in maintaining skin health and provide a more comfortable experience, especially during extended periods of wear or physical activity.

3. Bone Development and Pressure Balance: Considering that the bones, particularly the ribcage, are still developing during the teenage years, it's vital to ensure that the binder exerts balanced pressure. A binder that applies too much pressure on the front while neglecting the back can lead to postural issues and may even affect the natural development of the ribcage and spine. Choosing a binder that distributes pressure evenly across the chest and back is crucial in safeguarding against potential skeletal development problems. This consideration is not just about immediate comfort but about long-term health implications for the developing body.

Recognizing Signs of an Ill-Fitting Binder

Identifying the signs that a chest binder is not fitting correctly is essential in preventing long-term health issues. These signs include:

How to Bind Safely

To mitigate these risks, it is critical to follow safe binding practices:

Correct Sizing: Selecting a binder that fits correctly is paramount. It should provide sufficient compression without being overly tight, balancing safety with effectiveness. A binder that is too tight can escalate health risks, whereas one that is too loose won't offer the necessary compression.

Proper Positioning of Breasts: Even distribution of the breasts within the binder is crucial to avoid uneven pressure, which can lead to tissue damage.

Choose a Permeable Binder: Opting for a binder made from breathable, flexible materials is vital. These materials facilitate movement and allow the skin to breathe, reducing the likelihood of skin irritation and increasing overall comfort.

Monitor Duration of Use: It is advisable to wear the binder for no more than 8-10 hours per day and to avoid wearing it while sleeping.

Take Regular Breaks: Giving your body breaks from the binder allows your skin to breathe, mitigating the risk of issues caused by prolonged compression.

Listen to Your Body: Pay attention to any signs of discomfort, pain, difficulty in breathing, or indications of skin irritation. These signs can alert you that the binder might be too tight or worn for excessively long periods.

Putting on and Adjustment

Learning to put on and adjust a chest binder properly is a crucial step in ensuring comfort, effectiveness, and safety. Below is a detailed guide to help you navigate this process.

Step-by-Step Guide on How to Put On a Chest Binder

1. Preparing the Binder: Before putting it on, ensure the binder is turned the right way out and that any hooks, clasps, or zippers are fully open.

2. Positioning the Binder: Slip your arms through the armholes and gently pull the binder over your head or step into it if it's a full-length model. Avoid tugging or pulling too hard to prevent damage to the binder.

3. Aligning the Binder: Once the binder is over your chest, ensure it is evenly positioned. The bottom edge should sit flat against your body, not rolled or bunched up.

4. Adjusting for Comfort: After the binder is on, gently adjust it to ensure it feels comfortable. Move your arms, twist your torso, and bend over to ensure the binder moves with you without restriction.

5. Checking the Fit: Look in the mirror to ensure the binder is straight and evenly compressing across your chest. There shouldn't be any pinching or discomfort.

How to Position Your Chest in a Binder

1. Finding the Right Placement: Once you have your binder on, it's important to position your chest correctly within it. Using your hands, gently rearrange your chest tissue so it's evenly distributed within the binder.

2. Down and Out Method: For most, the 'down and out' method works best. This involves positioning the chest tissue downwards and outwards towards your underarms. This method not only helps achieve a flatter appearance but also ensures comfort and reduces the risk of chafing or irritation.

3. Avoid Over-Flattening: It might be tempting to try to flatten your chest as much as possible, but over-flattening can be uncomfortable and unhealthy. Your binder should compress, not constrict.

4. Regular Readjustment: Throughout the day, you might need to readjust your chest within the binder, especially after physical activities or movements that could cause shifting.

5. Listening to Your Body: Pay attention to any signs of discomfort or pain, as these are indications that your chest might not be positioned correctly within the binder or that the binder itself might not be the right fit for you.

Caring for Your Binder

Proper maintenance and care of your chest binder are crucial for prolonging its life and ensuring it remains effective and comfortable. Below are comprehensive instructions and tips on how to care for your binder.

Maintenance and Care Instructions

1. Regular Cleaning: Regular cleaning is essential to remove sweat, oils, and skin cells that accumulate on the binder. This not only maintains hygiene but also preserves the material's integrity.

2. Hand Washing: If possible, hand wash your binder. Use lukewarm water and a gentle, non-abrasive detergent. Avoid using bleach or fabric softeners, as these can break down the fibers and elasticity of the binder.

3. Gentle Machine Washing: If hand washing isn't feasible, you can machine wash your binder. Place it in a mesh laundry bag to protect it from snagging or stretching. Use a gentle cycle with cold water and a mild detergent.

4. Avoid Excessive Stretching: When washing and handling your binder, be careful not to stretch it excessively, especially when wet. Overstretching can lead to a loss of compression over time.

5. Rinsing Thoroughly: Ensure all soap is rinsed out of the binder. Soap residue can irritate the skin and degrade the fabric.

Washing and Drying Tips

1. Drying Method: Air drying your binder is the best option. Lay it flat or hang it up to dry, but avoid direct sunlight, which can damage the fabric. Do not wring out the binder, as this can cause it to lose its shape.

2. Avoiding the Dryer: It's generally recommended not to use a dryer for your chest binder. The heat can break down the elastic fibers and affect the binder's fit. If you must use a dryer, use the lowest heat setting and remove the binder while it's still slightly damp.

3. Rotating Binders: If possible, have more than one binder in rotation. This reduces wear and tear and ensures you always have a clean binder available while the other is being washed.

4. Dealing with Odors: If your binder starts to develop an odor, soaking it in a mixture of water and baking soda before washing can help eliminate smells.

5. Spot Cleaning: For small stains or when a full wash isn't necessary, spot cleaning with a damp cloth and mild detergent can be effective.

6. Storage: Store your binder in a cool, dry place when not in use. Avoid folding it tightly or cramming it into small spaces, which can cause the binder to lose its shape.

Replacing When Necessary: Even with good care, binders will eventually need to be replaced. Pay attention to the binder's effectiveness and comfort level, and replace it if it starts to lose its shape or compression.
The Fluxion chest binder is fully machine washable and dryer-safe for hassle-free care.
Wearing a chest binder in different settings, such as physical education classes, social gatherings, or everyday activities, requires thoughtful consideration and planning. Different environments and activities present unique challenges and opportunities for those who bind. Here are some tips to help you navigate various settings while wearing a chest binder.

Physical Education Classes and Sports Activities

Prioritize Comfort and Safety: In physically demanding settings like gym classes or sports, comfort and safety are paramount. Ensure your binder is snug but not restrictive, allowing for adequate movement and breathing.

Choose the Right Material: Opt for binders made of breathable, moisture-wicking materials to help manage sweat and maintain comfort during physical activities.

Be Mindful of Duration: Remember that wearing a binder for extended periods, especially during vigorous activities, can tax your body. Limit the time you wear it during such activities and take breaks when possible.

Listen to Your Body: Pay attention to any signs of discomfort, shortness of breath, or pain. These are indicators that you may need to take a break or adjust your binder.

Stay Hydrated: Increased physical exertion while binding can lead to quicker dehydration. Keep yourself hydrated throughout the activity.

Work or School Environments

Mental Health and Emotional Considerations

Wearing a chest binder for the first time can be a deeply significant moment, often accompanied by a mix of emotions ranging from relief and joy to anxiety and fear. Understanding and navigating these emotions is crucial for your mental well-being as you embark on this journey.

The Emotional Impact of Wearing a Chest Binder for the First Time

1. A Sense of Euphoria: For many, the first time wearing a chest binder brings a profound sense of euphoria. It can be a validating experience, aligning your physical appearance more closely with your gender identity. This alignment often brings a feeling of comfort and authenticity.

2. Relief and Confidence: Binding can provide immediate relief from gender dysphoria, enhancing your confidence. It allows you to present yourself in a way that feels right, potentially reducing stress and anxiety associated with body image.

3. Mixed Emotions: It's not uncommon to feel a mix of happiness and apprehension. While the physical change can be empowering, it may also bring up concerns about how others will perceive or react to this change.

1. Concerns About Safety and Health: It's normal to have concerns about the physical aspects of binding, such as comfort and health risks. Educating yourself about safe binding practices, choosing the right binder, and listening to your body can help alleviate these fears.

2. Worry About Social Acceptance: Concerns about how family, friends, and society will react can be daunting. Building a supportive community, whether online or in person, can provide a sense of belonging and understanding. Remember, you are not alone in this journey.

3. Anxiety About Identity and Presentation: The process of aligning your external appearance with your gender identity can bring up complex emotions. It's okay to have mixed feelings or uncertainty. Give yourself permission to explore these feelings at your own pace.

4. Impact on Mental Health: Binding, while affirming, can sometimes accentuate gender dysphoria or highlight other areas of discomfort. It's important to acknowledge these feelings and seek support when needed, whether from friends, family, or mental health professionals.

5. Coping with Dysphoria: On days when dysphoria is particularly challenging, remember that your binder is just one tool in your journey. Practicing self-care, engaging in activities that affirm your identity, and connecting with others who understand can be incredibly helpful.

6. Dealing with External Pressure: There can be pressure to conform to certain standards within and outside some communities. It's vital to remember that your journey is unique, and you should move at a pace that feels comfortable for you.

7. Celebrating Small Wins: Embrace and celebrate the positive aspects of your journey. Each step, no matter how small, is a part of your progress towards living authentically.

We appreciate your time spent with our content. Should it prove beneficial to you, we encourage you to pass it on to others who might also find value in it. For any inquiries or further discussion regarding the article, please don't hesitate to reach out-we're here to help!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
2023 The Ultimate Guide to Chest Binders-TheFluxion

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This guide provides comprehensive information on chest binders, including measurement tips, the importance of proper fit, safety considerations, and maintenance guidelines. It covers topics such as recognizing signs of an ill-fitting binder, how to bind safely, and mental health considerations.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
What is a Chest Binder?

Have you ever wondered what a chest binder is and what role it plays in the lives of many transgender and nonbinary? Well, you're not alone! Let's dive into the world of chest binders and discover why they're more than just clothing for so many people.

Commercial chest binders are one of the chest binding methods, which is a garment designed to compress and flatten the chest. It's a crucial tool for many transgender men and nonbinary individuals who are seeking a more masculine or non-gendered appearance. But it's not just about changing how one looks. Binders are potent tools for affirming one's gender identity, providing a sense of alignment and comfort with one's body, and significantly alleviating feelings of gender dysphoria.

For a lot of transgender and non-binary people, a binder is not just fabric and stitching. It's a gateway to expressing their true selves. Imagine looking in the mirror and feeling a wave of relief and recognition, seeing the person on the outside reflecting who you are on the inside. That's what a chest binder can do. It's not about concealing who you are but revealing your true identity. For many, this can be a profound step in reducing the distress and discomfort associated with gender dysphoria, allowing them to feel more at peace with their bodies.

How Does the Chest Binder Work?

Chest binders work by applying an even pressure across the chest area. However, the key lies in understanding the nature of breast tissue, which primarily consists of fat and glandular components. Contrary to what some might assume, this tissue cannot be significantly reduced in volume by pressure. Therefore, the role of a chest binder is not to decrease the chest size by compression but to redistribute the existing tissue.

Wearing a chest binder doesn't shrink the breast tissue; instead, it evenly disperses this tissue across the chest, resulting in a flatter appearance. This redistribution is gentle yet effective, ensuring the flattening effect without causing harm or significant discomfort.

However, many brands nowadays do not understand these principles and instead prioritize higher pressure, which can often be the most detrimental to users.

Types of Binders

As you begin your quest to find a suitable chest binder, it is essential to understand the different types available and how they cater to various needs and preferences. This section of the guide will explore the different types of commercial binders, including full-length and half-length options, as well as pullover styles and those with closures such as zippers, hooks, or Velcro. We will also discuss the pros and cons of each type, with a particular focus on what is most suitable for young individuals with active lifestyles.

Full-Length vs. Half-Length Binders

The primary difference between full-length and half-length commercial binders lies in their coverage. Full-length binders extend further down the torso, often reaching the hips. They can provide more uniform compression and may also help in smoothing out the appearance of the waist and hips, which some find beneficial for their body image. However, full-length binders might feel too restrictive or hot for more active individuals or those in warmer climates.

On the other hand, half-length binders, also known as crop top binders, end around the ribcage or mid-torso. These are generally more breathable and allow for greater mobility, making them a favored choice for those who are physically active or prefer less coverage. They're also easier to put on and take off, which can be a significant consideration for daily use.

There is no significant difference in the function of chest position between these two types of binders.

Pullover vs. Closure (Zipper vs. Hook vs. Velcro)

Pullover Binders

Pullover binders are the most common type and are worn similarly to a tank top. Despite their seemingly simple structure, they require a high level of expertise from manufacturers in terms of pressure management and balance. These binders offer the best user experience among all chest binder types because they lack additional structures like hooks, zippers, or velcro. This absence of extra components means there's less risk of localized excessive pressure or skin abrasion, which is crucial. Additionally, the non-adjustable nature of pullover binders prevents potential injury from incorrect self-adjustment of pressure.

Closure Binders

As the name suggests, closure binders have fastenings (like hooks, zippers, or velcro) on the front or side. They are more user-friendly for individuals with limited mobility (such as those with shoulder or neck movement restrictions) due to their open structure. However, any type of closure increases the thickness and hardness of the binder in that area. Side closure binders, in particular, can press uncomfortably against the ribs, posing comfort issues and safety risks. Unless necessary, they are not recommended.

Zipper vs. Hook vs. Velcro

Zipper: Zippers can be challenging to close due to the need to overcome the binder's elasticity. The chain structure and material hardness of zippers can press against the skin during upper body movement. Durability is also a consideration with zippers.

Hook: Hook closures can be cumbersome to wear, requiring individual hooks to be fastened, and they are prone to be fastened incorrectly, especially with side closure binders. Many hook closure binders have multiple rows of hooks, making the hook area large and thick, which can be uncomfortable and unhealthy for the chest or rib area.

Velcro: Velcro is the most likely to cause skin issues because one side is fuzzy, and the other has hooks. Regardless of how it's worn, one side will be against the body, potentially causing irritation and allergies. Additionally, a considerable amount of force is required to fasten a velcro binder, making it challenging to align and flatten properly. This can often result in uneven pressure distribution across the chest, which poses significant health and safety risks.

Materials: Spandex, Nylon, Cotton and other

When choosing a suitable chest binder, it is crucial to understand the different materials used and their unique properties. Each material - Spandex, Nylon, and Cotton - has advantages and drawbacks. At TheFluxion, we've tailored these materials to optimize comfort, durability, and effectiveness, creating an ideal experience for chest binder users.

Spandex: Elasticity and Comfort

Spandex is known for its remarkable elasticity, perfectly balancing compression and flexibility. This elasticity is essential in chest binders as it allows for sufficient compression to flatten the chest while ensuring the binder remains comfortable and not overly restrictive. A key benefit of Spandex is its ability to facilitate easy breathing and movement. Binders made with high-quality Spandex, like Lycra, are particularly favored at TheFluxion. Lycra's superior physical properties enhance stretch and elasticity, contributing to the binder's durability and overall comfort.

Nylon(Polyamide): Durability and Moisture-Wicking

Nylon, another common material in chest binders, stands out for its durability and moisture-wicking properties. It's particularly adept at handling sweat and maintaining its shape over time, making it less prone to sagging and warping. However, Nylon can sometimes feel rougher against the skin. To counter this, TheFluxion utilizes a finer weave of Nylon fibers. This finer weave makes the chest binder more delicate and skin-friendly, ensuring comfort without compromising the material's inherent strengths.

Cotton: Softness and Breathability

Cotton is often blended with a small amount of elastic materials to make chest binders incredibly soft and breathable. This blend is especially suitable for sensitive skin and offers unparalleled comfort for all-day wear. The ultra-fine weave of the cotton fibers used in TheFluxion binders elevates the body feel, providing an intimate experience that's gentle and comforting.

Of course, some brands use other materials, such as polyester, rubber bands, etc., but these materials are not the best choice for manufacturing Chest binders. Therefore, please consider carefully when purchasing.

TheFluxion's Special Lamination Process

At TheFluxion, we understand that each material has unique benefits and limitations. That's why we employ a unique lamination process in our chest binders. This process combines the best qualities of Spandex, Nylon, and Cotton, maximizing their advantages while minimizing the drawbacks. The result is a chest binder that offers an exceptional wearing experience, balancing stretch, breathability, and durability.

They are meticulously crafted to balance the need for a flattening effect with the need for comfort and safety. Materials such as spandex, nylon, or cotton blends provide the necessary elasticity to achieve chest tissue redistribution without compromising comfort. This design ensures that the pressure applied is sufficient for flattening but not so intense as to cause bruising, restricted breathing, or other health issues.

Sizing and Fit

Selecting the correct size and fit for a chest binder, especially for those new to chest binding. An appropriate fit is vital for comfort, safety, and effectiveness. The beginner-friendly guide will assist you in accurately measuring yourself and navigating through the sizing charts.

Understanding Sizing Guides and Charts

It's essential to read the sizing chart instructions of the specific brand you're considering carefully. The sizing charts vary among brands, and understanding how to interpret these charts correctly is vital to finding a good fit.

Common Issues in Size Charts
Read More About TheFlxuion Sizing Guide
How to Measure Yourself

Chest Measurement (Bust Size): Measure around the fullest part of your chest, typically at nipple level. Ensure the tape is snug but not too tight.

Upper Bust: Measure just above your chest, under the armpits, and over the shoulder blades.

Lower Bust (Chest Circumference): Measure directly under the bust line.

Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of your waist.

Shoulder Width: Measure from one shoulder to the other across your back.

Measurement Tips

1. Choose the Right Time: Measure yourself when you are relaxed and breathing normally. Avoid measuring right after physical activities when your body might be slightly swollen.

2. Use the Right Tools: Use a soft measuring tape for accuracy. If you don't have one, use a string or cord, mark it, and then measure the length against a ruler.

3. Stand Naturally: Stand in a relaxed posture, feet shoulder-width apart. Don't puff out your chest or suck it in.

4. Ensure Level Tape: Make sure the measuring tape is level around your body and parallel to the floor. A mirror can help check this.

5. Don't Pull Too Tight: The tape should be snug but not digging into your skin.

6. Take Multiple Measurements: To ensure accuracy, measure at least twice. If there are discrepancies, measure a third time.

The Importance of Proper Fit

An adequately fitted chest binder is essential for teenagers and growing bodies. An ill-fitting binder - too tight or too loose - can lead to discomfort, restricted breathing, or even health issues like skin irritation or rib damage. A binder that's too tight won't speed up any physical changes; it will only cause discomfort.

Moreover, your binder size might change as your body grows and changes. It's essential to re-measure yourself regularly and adjust your binder size as needed. Remember, the right fit should feel snug and provide the desired flattening effect without causing pain, difficulty in breathing, or limiting your range of motion.

Taking the time to accurately measure yourself and understand sizing charts is vital in selecting a chest binder. A proper fit ensures comfort and effectiveness and maintains your health and safety. As you grow and your body changes, stay attentive to how your binder fits and make adjustments as necessary. Your comfort and health are paramount in this journey of self-expression and affirmation.

Safety Considerations

Understanding the safety considerations of chest binding is not only crucial for the general user but is particularly vital for those whose bodies are still in their developmental stages. Awareness of potential side effects and possessing knowledge of how to bind safely are indispensable elements in minimizing risks associated with chest binding.

Wearing a chest binder doesn't automatically result in health problems; much hinges on the binder's pressure and the wearer's individual response. The human body is capable of withstanding a degree of compression, akin to the effects of sports compression garments, which can be beneficial if applied correctly. The key to harnessing these benefits while minimizing risks lies in two aspects: the chest binder's design and the user's choices.

Manufacturers have a significant responsibility to research and define a safe compression range. They need to design binders that effectively flatten the chest without exerting excessive pressure, which could lead to health issues. This involves using materials that offer the right balance between compression and flexibility, ensuring safety and comfort.

For users, selecting an appropriate brand and size is crucial. A binder should fit well - snug but not overly tight, allowing for normal breathing and movement. It's also important for individuals to recognize their unique body responses and make adjustments as needed.

While choosing a well-designed binder and the right size doesn't guarantee absolute safety, due to individual differences, it substantially lowers the risk of adverse effects.

General Safety Considerations

Chest binding, when not executed correctly, can lead to a variety of health complications. These risks include:

Special Considerations for Developing Bodies

For younger users, particularly those in their teenage years, the above risks can have more significant effects. Their skin tends to be more sensitive, making the choice of a correctly fitting binder made from suitable materials even more crucial. Furthermore, continuous and improper binding during these formative years can have a lasting impact on their skeletal and respiratory systems.

1. Effect of Body Development on Sizing and Health: One of the primary concerns is choosing a chest binder that is not overly tight. For growing bodies, it's crucial to acknowledge that their dimensions are continually changing. Selecting a binder that's too tight could not only be uncomfortable but also potentially harmful to health. It could constrict natural growth and development, leading to complications. Therefore, it's important to opt for a binder that offers sufficient compression without being restrictive. Regularly reassessing the fit of the binder and adjusting the size as the body grows is essential to avoid discomfort and health risks.

2. Sweating and Skin Sensitivity: Younger individuals often have more sensitive skin compared to adults. This sensitivity necessitates the selection of a chest binder made from breathable materials. A more breathable binder helps in managing sweat, which is particularly important to prevent skin irritation, rashes, and discomfort. Binders made from materials that allow air circulation helps in maintaining skin health and provide a more comfortable experience, especially during extended periods of wear or physical activity.

3. Bone Development and Pressure Balance: Considering that the bones, particularly the ribcage, are still developing during the teenage years, it's vital to ensure that the binder exerts balanced pressure. A binder that applies too much pressure on the front while neglecting the back can lead to postural issues and may even affect the natural development of the ribcage and spine. Choosing a binder that distributes pressure evenly across the chest and back is crucial in safeguarding against potential skeletal development problems. This consideration is not just about immediate comfort but about long-term health implications for the developing body.

Recognizing Signs of an Ill-Fitting Binder

Identifying the signs that a chest binder is not fitting correctly is essential in preventing long-term health issues. These signs include:

How to Bind Safely

To mitigate these risks, it is critical to follow safe binding practices:

Correct Sizing: Selecting a binder that fits correctly is paramount. It should provide sufficient compression without being overly tight, balancing safety with effectiveness. A binder that is too tight can escalate health risks, whereas one that is too loose won't offer the necessary compression.

Proper Positioning of Breasts: Even distribution of the breasts within the binder is crucial to avoid uneven pressure, which can lead to tissue damage.

Choose a Permeable Binder: Opting for a binder made from breathable, flexible materials is vital. These materials facilitate movement and allow the skin to breathe, reducing the likelihood of skin irritation and increasing overall comfort.

Monitor Duration of Use: It is advisable to wear the binder for no more than 8-10 hours per day and to avoid wearing it while sleeping.

Take Regular Breaks: Giving your body breaks from the binder allows your skin to breathe, mitigating the risk of issues caused by prolonged compression.

Listen to Your Body: Pay attention to any signs of discomfort, pain, difficulty in breathing, or indications of skin irritation. These signs can alert you that the binder might be too tight or worn for excessively long periods.

Putting on and Adjustment

Learning to put on and adjust a chest binder properly is a crucial step in ensuring comfort, effectiveness, and safety. Below is a detailed guide to help you navigate this process.

Step-by-Step Guide on How to Put On a Chest Binder

1. Preparing the Binder: Before putting it on, ensure the binder is turned the right way out and that any hooks, clasps, or zippers are fully open.

2. Positioning the Binder: Slip your arms through the armholes and gently pull the binder over your head or step into it if it's a full-length model. Avoid tugging or pulling too hard to prevent damage to the binder.

3. Aligning the Binder: Once the binder is over your chest, ensure it is evenly positioned. The bottom edge should sit flat against your body, not rolled or bunched up.

4. Adjusting for Comfort: After the binder is on, gently adjust it to ensure it feels comfortable. Move your arms, twist your torso, and bend over to ensure the binder moves with you without restriction.

5. Checking the Fit: Look in the mirror to ensure the binder is straight and evenly compressing across your chest. There shouldn't be any pinching or discomfort.

How to Position Your Chest in a Binder

1. Finding the Right Placement: Once you have your binder on, it's important to position your chest correctly within it. Using your hands, gently rearrange your chest tissue so it's evenly distributed within the binder.

2. Down and Out Method: For most, the 'down and out' method works best. This involves positioning the chest tissue downwards and outwards towards your underarms. This method not only helps achieve a flatter appearance but also ensures comfort and reduces the risk of chafing or irritation.

3. Avoid Over-Flattening: It might be tempting to try to flatten your chest as much as possible, but over-flattening can be uncomfortable and unhealthy. Your binder should compress, not constrict.

4. Regular Readjustment: Throughout the day, you might need to readjust your chest within the binder, especially after physical activities or movements that could cause shifting.

5. Listening to Your Body: Pay attention to any signs of discomfort or pain, as these are indications that your chest might not be positioned correctly within the binder or that the binder itself might not be the right fit for you.

Caring for Your Binder

Proper maintenance and care of your chest binder are crucial for prolonging its life and ensuring it remains effective and comfortable. Below are comprehensive instructions and tips on how to care for your binder.

Maintenance and Care Instructions

1. Regular Cleaning: Regular cleaning is essential to remove sweat, oils, and skin cells that accumulate on the binder. This not only maintains hygiene but also preserves the material's integrity.

2. Hand Washing: If possible, hand wash your binder. Use lukewarm water and a gentle, non-abrasive detergent. Avoid using bleach or fabric softeners, as these can break down the fibers and elasticity of the binder.

3. Gentle Machine Washing: If hand washing isn't feasible, you can machine wash your binder. Place it in a mesh laundry bag to protect it from snagging or stretching. Use a gentle cycle with cold water and a mild detergent.

4. Avoid Excessive Stretching: When washing and handling your binder, be careful not to stretch it excessively, especially when wet. Overstretching can lead to a loss of compression over time.

5. Rinsing Thoroughly: Ensure all soap is rinsed out of the binder. Soap residue can irritate the skin and degrade the fabric.

Washing and Drying Tips

1. Drying Method: Air drying your binder is the best option. Lay it flat or hang it up to dry, but avoid direct sunlight, which can damage the fabric. Do not wring out the binder, as this can cause it to lose its shape.

2. Avoiding the Dryer: It's generally recommended not to use a dryer for your chest binder. The heat can break down the elastic fibers and affect the binder's fit. If you must use a dryer, use the lowest heat setting and remove the binder while it's still slightly damp.

3. Rotating Binders: If possible, have more than one binder in rotation. This reduces wear and tear and ensures you always have a clean binder available while the other is being washed.

4. Dealing with Odors: If your binder starts to develop an odor, soaking it in a mixture of water and baking soda before washing can help eliminate smells.

5. Spot Cleaning: For small stains or when a full wash isn't necessary, spot cleaning with a damp cloth and mild detergent can be effective.

6. Storage: Store your binder in a cool, dry place when not in use. Avoid folding it tightly or cramming it into small spaces, which can cause the binder to lose its shape.

Replacing When Necessary: Even with good care, binders will eventually need to be replaced. Pay attention to the binder's effectiveness and comfort level, and replace it if it starts to lose its shape or compression.
The Fluxion chest binder is fully machine washable and dryer-safe for hassle-free care.
Wearing a chest binder in different settings, such as physical education classes, social gatherings, or everyday activities, requires thoughtful consideration and planning. Different environments and activities present unique challenges and opportunities for those who bind. Here are some tips to help you navigate various settings while wearing a chest binder.

Physical Education Classes and Sports Activities

Prioritize Comfort and Safety: In physically demanding settings like gym classes or sports, comfort and safety are paramount. Ensure your binder is snug but not restrictive, allowing for adequate movement and breathing.

Choose the Right Material: Opt for binders made of breathable, moisture-wicking materials to help manage sweat and maintain comfort during physical activities.

Be Mindful of Duration: Remember that wearing a binder for extended periods, especially during vigorous activities, can tax your body. Limit the time you wear it during such activities and take breaks when possible.

Listen to Your Body: Pay attention to any signs of discomfort, shortness of breath, or pain. These are indicators that you may need to take a break or adjust your binder.

Stay Hydrated: Increased physical exertion while binding can lead to quicker dehydration. Keep yourself hydrated throughout the activity.

Work or School Environments

Mental Health and Emotional Considerations

Wearing a chest binder for the first time can be a deeply significant moment, often accompanied by a mix of emotions ranging from relief and joy to anxiety and fear. Understanding and navigating these emotions is crucial for your mental well-being as you embark on this journey.

The Emotional Impact of Wearing a Chest Binder for the First Time

1. A Sense of Euphoria: For many, the first time wearing a chest binder brings a profound sense of euphoria. It can be a validating experience, aligning your physical appearance more closely with your gender identity. This alignment often brings a feeling of comfort and authenticity.

2. Relief and Confidence: Binding can provide immediate relief from gender dysphoria, enhancing your confidence. It allows you to present yourself in a way that feels right, potentially reducing stress and anxiety associated with body image.

3. Mixed Emotions: It's not uncommon to feel a mix of happiness and apprehension. While the physical change can be empowering, it may also bring up concerns about how others will perceive or react to this change.

1. Concerns About Safety and Health: It's normal to have concerns about the physical aspects of binding, such as comfort and health risks. Educating yourself about safe binding practices, choosing the right binder, and listening to your body can help alleviate these fears.

2. Worry About Social Acceptance: Concerns about how family, friends, and society will react can be daunting. Building a supportive community, whether online or in person, can provide a sense of belonging and understanding. Remember, you are not alone in this journey.

3. Anxiety About Identity and Presentation: The process of aligning your external appearance with your gender identity can bring up complex emotions. It's okay to have mixed feelings or uncertainty. Give yourself permission to explore these feelings at your own pace.

4. Impact on Mental Health: Binding, while affirming, can sometimes accentuate gender dysphoria or highlight other areas of discomfort. It's important to acknowledge these feelings and seek support when needed, whether from friends, family, or mental health professionals.

5. Coping with Dysphoria: On days when dysphoria is particularly challenging, remember that your binder is just one tool in your journey. Practicing self-care, engaging in activities that affirm your identity, and connecting with others who understand can be incredibly helpful.

6. Dealing with External Pressure: There can be pressure to conform to certain standards within and outside some communities. It's vital to remember that your journey is unique, and you should move at a pace that feels comfortable for you.

7. Celebrating Small Wins: Embrace and celebrate the positive aspects of your journey. Each step, no matter how small, is a part of your progress towards living authentically.

We appreciate your time spent with our content. Should it prove beneficial to you, we encourage you to pass it on to others who might also find value in it. For any inquiries or further discussion regarding the article, please don't hesitate to reach out-we're here to help!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
2023 The Ultimate Guide to Chest Binders-TheFluxion

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This guide provides comprehensive information on chest binders, including measurement tips, the importance of proper fit, safety considerations, and maintenance guidelines. It covers topics such as recognizing signs of an ill-fitting binder, how to bind safely, and mental health considerations.

# data[].attributes.body
Global politics 19/06/24