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The image sensor is the part of the camera that reads the lightwaves of what the camera is capturing, it reads the lightwaves and then transfers that light to create the image of what the camera is seeing. The image sensor is placed in the back of the camera, behind the shutter. When the mirror flicks up, after the shutter button is pressed, inside the camera the light is revealed to the image sensor, the image sensor then reads this light and turns it into the image that the photographer has captured which is how the camera captures a photograph.

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As seen in the different types of cameras, we can see that the viewfinder is mentioned very often. The viewfinder is the what the photographer looks through in order to see what they are capturing. In TLR, SLR and DSLR cameras this is placed above the lens of the camera and has an eyepiece to look through which is where the viewfinder is, and particularly in the case of the TLR, this created a parallax error. This can be seen in the previous box. In the case of point and shoot cameras, there is no eyepiece and instead, the box on the back of the camera operates as the viewfinder

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Like light, colour also has an impact on how photographs are taken, we will now explore this in more detail.

Warm Colours: Warm colours consist of colours such as red, orange and yellow. These colours make the subject look more angry, threatening or hostile. However, the red can also suggest love and romance.

Cold Colours: These tends to be colours such as blue, green and light purples. These make the subject look lonely and sad as these are the connotations we link with these colours.

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Diagram 2: Light passing through  the camera when the image is being taken

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Diagram 2: Light passing through  the camera when the image is being taken

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Diagram 1:Light passing through the camera to the viewfinder. (Diagram 2 below

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Diagram 1:Light passing through the camera to the viewfinder. (Diagram 2 below

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How light passes through to the viewfinder:
For the photographer to be able to see the image that they are capturing through the viewfinder, light has to pass through the lens of the camera, which can be seen from the orange line on diagram 1. Then, the light that has passed through the lens bounces off the mirror - the black line on diagram 1 in the camera which is angled towards the roof of the camera and this reflects the light into the pentaprism. The pentaprism then flips the picture laterally by bouncing the light around inside of it, as can be seen from diagram 1. The light then bounces off the pentaprism into the viewfinder so the photographer can see the image they are taking.

How light passes through when the image is being taken:
When the camera takes a photo, the light again passes through the lens of the camera but now, instead of reflecting off the mirror, the mirror adjusts (as can be seen from the black line in diagram 2). This allows the lights to travel in a straight line directly towards the shutter; the shutter is open as the shutter release has been pressed to capture the image, so this means that the light passes straight to capture the image. In diagram 2  the image sensor has been called 'Sensor Plate' and is the thick blue line. The reason that when a photographer takes an image they can no longer see it in the viewfinder is because the mirror adjusts itself to allow light to pass through in a straight line, this means that there is nothing to reflect the light into the pentaprism and ultimately into the viewfinder.

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Examples of Different White Balance Tones

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Examples of Different White Balance Tones

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The one on the left has too many cold tones, the one in the middle too many warm tones and the one on the right is perfect.

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JPEG (Joint Photographic Experts Group) vs RAW Files (Digital Negative)
These are the two file types in which camera's take photos. You can set the camera to do either or both when capturing the image.

Pro's and Cons of JPEG's:
JPEG's have a much smaller file size which means you can store more onto your memory card and onto your hard drive. However, they are less editable than the RAW files as they are compressed to make files smaller, meaning that you can't edit the photo's as much in Photoshop. Because this format is smaller, it allows the camera to take images continuously, so you can take multiple images within a couple of seconds, this makes them pretty handy for beginner photographers.

Pro's and Cons of Raw Files:
These have a much larger file size meaning you will not able to store as many onto an SD card or hard drive, also, they are undeveloped meaning that you won't be able to look at them on a computer immediately, first, you will have to compress them using Photoshop and save them as a JPEG. However, because they are undeveloped, the exposure and noise within the photo can be edited and adjusted in Photoshop much easier because they have not been compressed at all. Because of this, professional photographers tend to use these kind of files.

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Apart from the typical lens that is on a camera, there are other lenses that have different effects as well.

Telephoto Lens: This lens is used to make a subject that is in the distance look a lot closer, it also tends to be a wider lens to capture more of the background. It is often used for sports or wildlife photography.

Macro: This lens can focus on the object much closer than the average, normal lens can. This makes it very good for extreme and regular close up's.

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White balance is the setting on the camera that tells the camera what the correct setting is for the colour white, which ultimately, changes the colours of your photograph to ensure that it doesn't have a blue or yellow hue added to it. So, if a photograph has a picture that has a slight warm tinge or cold tinge to it, it's because the white balance has not been set correctly.
The pre-set ways of setting white balance are:
Auto: For this, the camera tries to guess what the correct balance of white is need in each photograph that it may take.
Tungsten – This mode is used for taking photographs indoors and under tungsten lighting. It cools down the colours in the photo as a tungsten light makes an image look warmer, unbalancing the white balance.
Fluorescent – This light warms up the colours in photograph in order to correct the white balance. This is because fluorescent light adds a blue hue to the image otherwise.
Daylight/Sunny – This mode adjusts the white balance for the average photo
Cloudy – This setting, gently warms up the photograph more than the Daylight mode.
Flash – The flash creates a slightly cool look in your photo so the flash white balance warms the photos up a bit.

However, these settings do not always get the white balance setting exactly correct, especially not if the lighting is slightly more tricky than for the average photo so it is better to set the white balance yourself. To do this, you set the camera to manually recognise the colour white, then you take a picture of a piece of white paper in whatever lighting you are capturing the subject. This tells the camera what the white balance needs to be for this image, creating the perfect white balance.

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There are a different range of lights that are used in photography for different effects, here is a run down of these and what they do:

Artificial and Natural Lights: Artificial lights are lights that are man made and can be turned either on or off with a flick of a switch, for example, a light in a light bulb. Natural lights are lights that have not been man made, this is basically sunlight and moonlight however, their intensity can't be adjusted so photographers have to try and use natural light to their advantage.

Tungsten Light: This is an artificial light, the type of light that is in a room in your house. However, it's not a fluorescent light, it is orange. Some street lamps use a tungsten light. Tungsten light is a light that has a warmer colour on the subject.

Fluorescent Light: This is the typical, artificial, white light that you have in your house. Again, some street lamps use this light and it is also used a lot for studio photography. Fluorescent light tends to have a more colder or blue hue on the subject.

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Photographers often use a range of photographs that have been taken either hand held or tripod depending on the particular photograph.

The perks of taking a photograph hand held are:
You can move the camera around with ease, so you can adjust the composition of the photo.
You don't have to carry around as much equipment, so it is easier to get around.
You get more access to the camera which makes it easier to adjust the settings on the camera.
Photographers often take documentary or candid using hand held shots.

Whereas, the perks of taking a photograph with a tripod are:
Your shots will be steadier as you're not holding the camera, instead it's being held by the tripod which will stay completely still if assembled correctly, because of this the photograph will have little, if any blur.
This is good for low-light and long exposure photographs as for these photographs you need a slow shutter speed and if the camera moves on a slow shutter speed, it will become very blurry and ruin the photograph, this is not as likely to happen if the camera is attached to a tripod.
Using a tripod is also great for macro shots and framing pictures.

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The memory card is what is used to save your photograph so that it is not just instantly deleted. These are then often used to transfer images onto a computer for editing and presentation. Some, only carry a small amount of a memory and these tend to be cheaper, however, some hold a much larger memory and can carry a lot more photographs before they need to be deleted. An example of a small card capacity would be 4GB and higher card capacity would be 32GB

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Flash on a camera, can get rid of any harsh, well defined shadows that have been created from hard-lighting the flash, lights up the whole subject making it all brighter and getting rid of shadows, furthermore, it is often used in night time photography to illuminate the picture to make it visible.
However, it can also have an impact on the quality of the image. Flash lighting creates something called 'Flat lighting' which makes the subject as opposed to looking 3D like in most photographs. This is because the angle of the flash, which is right above the lens means the subject has no shadows, making them look flat. Furthermore, it is also flash that creates the 'red eye' effect. This is because the light reflects the blood vessels in the retinas of the subjects eyes and these do not look good on photos.

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The ISO settings stands for 'International Standards Organisation'. This setting decides how sensitive the camera is to light. The ISO number doubles or halves as it goes 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 and so on. The lower the number, for example 100, the less sensitive the camera is too light, whereas, a higher number such as 1600 or 3200 is extremely sensitive to light. Typically, for a bright setting the ISO will be on either 100 or 200, then, as the setting gets darker the ISO increases. Preferably, it is best that the ISO does not go past 800 as the higher the ISO goes, the lower the quality of the photograph. So, a photograph that has been taken with an ISO set on 3200 will likely be a very pixelated image as the ISO adds image noise to the photograph, making it look grainy.

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The reason we set the aperture, shutter speed, depth of field and ISO is to achieve the correct exposure for our photographs. An underexposed image is a photograph that is too dark, whereas and overexposed image is a photograph that is too bright; a photographer needs to find balance of light and dark to gain the correct exposure for the photograph. You can see this from the example image on exposure.

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The smaller the number is, the larger the hole. The 'f' stands for focal length

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The aperture, simply put is the hole in the camera lens that lets light through. This means that when you press the shutter release button on the camera - which is basically the button you press to take the photo - a hole opens up in the lens which allows the image sensor in the camera to see what you want to capture in your photograph for as long as the shutter is open. The aperture setting is how large that hole is. The bigger the hole is, the more light that will be taken in by the image sensor and the smaller the hole is, the less light the image sensor will receive as there wouldn't be as much space for light to reach the image sensor when the hole is small.

Aperture is measured in a thing called 'F-stops', these are often referred to as 'F-Numbers'. The settings for aperture as laid out as f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6,f/8,f/22 and so on. As you go through one f-stop to another, the light that gets through either doubles or halves, depending on if you're going in ascending or descending order. The concept of F-Numbers can be tricky for a lot of beginning photographers as the aperture is in fact larger when the f-number is smaller. So, for example, f/1.4 is going to be a much bigger aperture as opposed to f/8 or f/22 where the hole is much smaller and therefore so is the aperture. This sounds as though it could be the wrong way round but this will make more sense as we advance into depth of field.

The depth of field is how much of the photograph is in focus. For example, in the top left picture of the aperture adjustment sequence - DOF image with the setting 'f/1.8', we can see that only the flower is in focus and the rest of the background is blurred, this is called a shallow depth of field because only what is right at the front of the camera. However, the bottom right image with the setting 'f/22' everything in focus, including the trees, grass and roads in the background. This is called a great or large depth of field as everything that is within the camera's lens is in focus.

The 'f' in the f-number (for example, f/1.8 or f/22) stands for "Focal length". This is how the camera tells you how much of the image is going to be in focus as "Focal length" means, at what length the camera is in focus. So, the larger the focal length, the more of the image will be in focus. This is why the smaller the f/number, the larger the aperture is.

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The shutter speed is the setting that determines how long the shutter of the camera is open, the camera captures what is going on in the lens for the full time the shutter is open. The photographer can set the shutter to be open for as slow as a minute or more or as quick as a 1/1000 of a second. The quicker the shutter speed, the more sharp the photograph will become which you can see in the example photograph of fast shutter speed. This is because the shutter is not open for very long and because the camera only captures what's going on in the lens for the amount of time the shutter is open - which in this case is not a long time - everything is captured instantly. Hence why we can see the detailed particles of the water in the fast shutter speed photograph. A fast shutter speed is generally used for photographs when the photographer wants more details, because the quicker the shutter speed, the more sharp the image.

However, a slow shutter speed can also be used for artistic photographs as well. The slower the shutter speed, the more blurred the picture. Also, it will let in more light as the shutter is open for longer, which in some photographs, can have a bigger impact. In the example below of slow shutter speed, we can see the use of something called light trails. As we can see in the photograph, instead of seeing cars we can just see the trails of where the light of the cars have been and this has been created by using a very slow shutter, probably somewhere in the minutes range. What's happened to create this is, the photographer has taken the picture of a busy motorway where traffic is passing by constantly but instead of capturing with a fast shutter speed; which would mean that we would see all the cars details and the photograph would be much more sharp, the photographer has used a slow shutter speed. This then means that when the photographer takes the picture, the shutter stays open for as long as he or she has decided, because the camera captures everything that happens within the cameras lens whilst the shutter is open this means that any lights from vehicles will be captured as they move, the camera receives all the light and movement from the vehicles and they become more blurred as opposed to sharp and frozen because the shutter has been open for longer which is what creates this effect.

The photographer will have also set the other manual settings, such as aperture, appropriately for these pictures.

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This is a run down of some of the automatic settings on the mode dial:
Fully Auto Mode: This is the green image that reads A+. It means that the camera will automatically choose all settings for the photography even though it knows nothing about the subject. The following modes give a bit of context to the camera and what the subject is depending on the mode you use.

No Flash Mode: This is the picture of the lighting bolt with an arrow on the end that is in a box and has been crossed out. It's very similar to the fully auto mode with the only difference being that this mode doesn't allow flash in any of the pictures it takes with this setting.

Portrait Mode: The image for this mode is the illustration of the side of a persons face. This mode means that the camera will adjust it's settings to what it thinks is right for aperture and shutter speed if you are taking a picture of somebody's face.

Landscape Mode: This is the mountain and cloud on the mode dial. Similar to portrait mode, it adjusts the settings of aperture and shutter speed to suit for photographs of landscapes.

Nature Mode: This is the flower on the mode dial, the camera adjusts the settings for what it perceives as correct for pictures of nature and flowers.

Sports Mode: On the mode dial, this is picture of somebody running. This mode adjusts it's settings specifically to capture images of people or objects that are moving without them being blurred by speeding up the shutter speed.

Mode for Night: This is the person in the box with a star. The settings the camera use are specifically to capture images that are night or in the dark, using a lower aperture to increase light in the image and a higher ISO for the same reason.

Record Mode: This is the image of the video camera, by using this mode, when you press the shutter instead of taking a photograph, the camera will operate as a video camera and record.

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Here is a run down of some of the manual settings on the mode dial:
A-Dep: This is depth of field. This allows you to choose how much of the image you want to be in focus. A shallow depth of field means only what the camera is directly focusing on is in focus and the rest of the background is out of focus but as the A-Dep increases more and more of the image will be in focus.

M: This stands for Metered Manual, this gives you freedom to set the aperture and shutter speed instead of the camera doing it. This mode gives you full control of the camera.

AV: This stands for Aperture Value. This allows you to set the aperture and adjust it by yourself but the camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed. So only some settings are manual with this mode.

TV: The same applies for this mode but instead, it's the other way around. This mode stands for Time Value and it allows for you to set the speed of the shutter however, the aperture will be set by the camera.

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A DSLR camera has a mixture of automatic and manual settings that adjust the way the photograph is captured. The settings from A-Dep to P are manual settings and the rest of the symbols are automatic settings. Manual settings are generally used for professional photography where the photographer himself decides the settings the camera will use  to take the photo. Whereas, the automatic settings mean that the camera decides what the best setting are for the photograph.

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Mobile Phone Cameras are also Point and Shoot Cameras

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Twin Lens Reflex Camera (TLR): These camera's were created in 1800's, the viewfinder eyepiece is separate to the lens which is what makes it a twin lens. The twin lens creates a Parallax error, this means that what somebody can see in the viewfinder is not accurate to what the camera is capturing through the lens.

Single Lens Reflex Camera (SLR) (35 mm Film Camera) and Digital Single Lens Reflex Camera (DLSR):  These cameras have a single lens camera so the viewfinder eyepiece shows exactly what the lens is capturing. The reflex in the camera is a mirror that is positioned behind the shutter and placed slightly upwards towards the viewfinder so that the light the lens receives, the viewfinder eyepiece receives the same.

The SLR camera is a film camera which means that the film for the images had to be specifically wound on the back wall of the camera, which is opposite to the shutter to be able to produce images. However, the DSLR camera uses the same reflex technique for the single lens but it is in fact digital as opposed to the SLR so the images are captured on an SD card which can then be placed and transferred onto a computer.

Viewfinder Cameras or Point and Shoot Cameras: These cameras are generally used for amateur and casual use of photography, they don't have an eyepiece to look through, instead the user will look through the viewfinder - which is straight on the back of the camera - to see the image. This means that the camera will not need the reflex; the mirror in the camera that projects the image into the eyepiece; as the viewfinder is directly behind the lens as opposed to being slightly above the lens. They tend to be a lot cheaper to make as they don't need as many complex parts as the other cameras and they also tend to draw much more attention to automatic modes as opposed to manual modes. Mobile phone cameras and compact cameras are point and shoot cameras.