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Photography Basics for Noobs | Beginner Guide

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Share your videos with friends, family, and the world

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Ansel Adams Photography of Yosemite & Carmel

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Ansel Adams: Technique & Working Methods

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Photographer Ansel Adams describes his approach. Watch more videos about Ansel Adams: http://bit.ly/1mf1tis In Focus: Ansel Adams http://bit.ly/1d9easJ Subscribe NOW to the Getty Museum channel: http://bit.ly/gettymuseumyoutube Love art? Follow us on Google+ to stay in touch: http://bit.ly/gettygoogleplus

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The Photography Teacher's Handbook is an educator's resource for developing active, flipped learning environments in and out of the photo classroom, featuring ready-to-use methods to increase student engagement and motivation. Using the latest research on the cognitive science of effective learning, this book presents groundbreaking strategies to inspire students to collaborate, explore, and internalize photographic principles and concepts. The innovative practices in this book reimagine the traditional, scholarly pedagogy into a dynamic, teacher-guided, learner-centered approach. Key features include: Step-by-step instructions that explain how and why to flip a photography classroom Hands-on exercises and activities to help students take charge of their learning experience Practical advice from more than 100 respected photography educators An interactive companion website with informative videos, links, and resources for students and educators alike

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the photography teacher's handbookpractical methods for engaging students in the ...

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Prices for The Photography Teacher's HandbookPractical Methods for Engaging Students in the ... by Garin Horner

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The Photography Teacher's Handbook is an educator's resource for developing active, flipped learning environments in and out of the photo classroom, featuring ready-to-use methods to increase student engagement and motivation. Using the latest research on the cognitive science of effective learning, this book presents groundbreaking strategies to inspire students to collaborate, explore, and internalize photographic principles and concepts.

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The Weekly Photography Project to Frame your World | 52Frames

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Unleash your creativity, one week at a time. 52Frames is a worldwide community of photography enthusiasts from all walks of life (ranging from novices to experts). Together we strive to improve as photographers by participating in weekly photo challenges.

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This fact sheet relates to photographers and copyright.In this fact sheet, we outline the copyright issues most relevant to photographers, and respond to some common questions. For a detailed discussion, see our practical guide, also entitled Photographers & Copyright.

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I remember taking a group photo as a budding new photographer, then excitedly loading the images on to my computer only to discover that the people in the back rows were completely out of focus. I still remember that sinking feeling, and then the wondering, what did I do wrong?

The answer lies in depth of field. While either the autofocus or the manual focus determines what is in focus, it doesn't determine _how much is in focus-_that's where depth of field comes in. Those soft backgrounds in portraits? Or those crisp, almost completely-focused landscapes? Those are achieved through depth of field, but there's actually more than one way to adjust the depth of field in any given image.

Curious? Here's what you need to know to understand depth of field.

What is Depth of Field?

Depth of field is the range of distances that appears in focus. When you focus on an object, that object is sharply focused. But what about the object that's, say an inch behind it? Or a foot behind it? Depending on your camera settings and lens type, the depth of field may be just millimeters, or a few dozen feet.

A shallow depth of field means that only a small portion of the image is sharply focused, while the background (and often foreground) are unfocused. Portraits commonly use a shallow depth of field, because that unfocused quality eliminates anything distracting from the background and draws more attention to the subject.

A narrow depth of field means that a large portion of the image is sharply focused, even for objects that are a little ways from the focal point. Landscapes use a narrow depth of field to show more of the scene, and group portraits should use a narrow depth of field to prevent the back row from being out of focus.

Factors That Affect Depth of Field

So, the depth of field determines how much of the image is in focus. But how do you adjust the depth of field? There's actually more than one way to adjust the depth of field (plus another factor that's set when you choose which camera to shoot with).

Aperture**

**

Aperture is the most well-known way to adjust depth of field, and also probably the easiest method. Remember aperture is the size of the opening in the lens-a larger opening lets in more light and vice versa. But aperture also plays a big role in the depth of field.

A wide aperture, or a low f-stop number, results in a shallow depth of field. Aperture settings like f1.8, and f2.8 let a lot of light into the image, but they also result in that unfocused background. At these wide apertures, an object needs to be very close to the original focus point in order to be sharp. That's why, in portrait photography, it's important to focus on the eyes-otherwise if the focus point is on the nose, the face may not be in focus with such a shallow depth of field.

A narrow aperture, or a high f-stop number, results in a narrow depth of field. (If you have a hard time remembering, just think narrow aperture = narrow depth of field.) Settings like f/8 and f/11 will leave much more of the image in focus. Objects don't have to be very close to the original focal point in order to remain sharp-so that back row in the group photo is much clearer at f/11 than at f/2.8. Landscapes tend to use very high f-numbers so that the almost the entire scene remains sharp.

Distance

Aperture is just one depth of field element that the photographer has control over-distance plays a role too. Aperture controls the distance from the subject that objects will remain sharp, but simply adjusting the distance of these objects can change how focused or unfocused they are.

The distance between the subject and the background plays a role. For example, even at f2.8, if you take a portrait with the subject leaning against a brick wall, most of the details in the brick will still be noticeable, even at such a wide aperture. Ask the subject to stand a few feet away from the wall, however, and the wall becomes out of focus.

But the distance between the camera and the subject has an effect as well. If you're not getting the out of focus background that you want and you can't lower your aperture any more, you can just move closer to your subject. The closer you are to your subject, the shallower your depth of field will be.

There's a lot of confusion surrounding the idea that the focal length of a lens also changes the depth of field. But the focal length of a lens doesn't change the depth of field any more than getting close to your subject does. If you take an image at 300mm, then that same composition at 35mm by moving closer to your subject, the depth of field will be the same. If you take an image standing in the same location at 35mm and 300mm, the 300mm photo will have the shallower depth of field-but that's from "getting closer" to the subject, not the actual focal length.

Sensor size

There's one more factor to depth of field, but it's not something the photographer can change between photos. The size of a camera's sensor plays a role.

Cameras with larger sensors have a shallower depth of field than cameras with smaller sensors, taken at the same aperture and distance when applied to the same composition. It's easier to get that unfocused background with a DSLR than with a point-and-shoot camera.

While you can't change your camera's sensor size like you can change the aperture, it's important to understand, particularly if you switch between a point-and-shoot and a DSLR.

Depth of Field: Tips and Pitfalls

Understanding depth of field is essential to mastering photography. But there's also a few tips (and a few pitfalls to put caution cones around) when it comes to depth of field.

Don't make the depth of field too shallow when you need to focus quickly. When your focus point is off at f/1.8, it's really off. But if your focus point isn't quite right at f/8, you can still capture a sharp subject, thanks to the principals of depth of field. New photographers that need to focus quickly (i.e. for action photos) should use a narrower apperature (as the lighting allows) to ensure a sharp subject. As your confidence and focusing technique grows, then it's okay to use wide apertures for action.

That unmarked button on your DSLR up close to the lens? That's a depth of field preview button (on most modern cameras anyways). Under normal shooting scenarios, the camera doesn't show you depth of field through the viewfinder. But pressing the depth of field button stops down the aperture, so you can see how sharp your background will be.

Don't forget the foreground. Just as depth of field affects the background of an image, it affects the foreground too. If you'd like the foreground of your image to be sharp, use a narrow aperture. If you'd like the foreground to be out of focus, use a wide aperture. You can also adjust the distance between the subject and foreground, or the distance between the camera and the foreground, but that's not always practical.

Double check to make sure that everything you want to be in focus, is in focus. If you're shooting a portrait, the eyes and face should be in focus, and you may want to increase that f-stop number a bit to get the hair in focus too.

Depth of field is an essential element to understand, both to ensure the entire subject is sharp and to choose when the background is soft. A portrait may require a shallow depth of field, while landscapes are often best with a narrow depth of field. But there's more than one way to adjust depth of field-aperture plays a role, but so does distance and sensor size. Experiment with depth of field to really grasp the concept-try shooting at different apertures, then try shooting at different distances. Before you know it, you'll have another tool to add to your bag of photography tricks.
Looking to sharpen your photography skills? Join our top-rated professional diploma in photography today!

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The Beginner's Guide to Understanding Depth of Field

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I remember taking a group photo as a budding new photographer, then excitedly loading the images on to my computer only to discover that the people in the back rows were completely out of focus. I still remember that sinking feeling, and then the wondering, what did I do wrong?

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Understanding Depth of Field

Lumu Light Meter App: Turn your phone or iPad into a light meter!

Fotometer Pro App: Turn your phone or ipad into a light meter!

Canon Manual Photography Learning Site

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Understanding Depth of Field Lumu Light Meter App: Turn your phone or iPad into a light meter! Fotometer Pro App: Turn your phone or ipad into a light meter! Canon Manual Photography Learning Site

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COMPOSITION - Most Important thing in PHOTOGRAPHY!

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9 photo composition tips (feat. Steve McCurry)

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Day 3 - Rule of Thirds 📸 Photos posted on my Instagram #30DayChallenge #learnontiktok #photographytips #fyp #viral #iphone

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@chris_priestley
Day 3 - Rule of Thirds 📸 Photos posted on my Instagram #30DayChallenge #learnontiktok #photographytips #fyp #viral #iphone
♬ original sound - Chris Priestley

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Photography To Another Level | Amazing Photo Effects ▶ 6

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Share your videos with friends, family, and the world

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Moon photography is harder than it seems. Use these tips to get your lighting, camera settings, and composition spot on for taking photos of the Moon.

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Black and white photography offers a unique perspective on many subjects. Removing colour brings out the hidden details, textures, and shapes.

Black and white photography is sometimes treated as the "poor relation" of colour photography. After all, why limit yourself to shades of gray when you can use the entire spectrum of colours?

In reality a black and white photo can often look even more stunning and captivating than the colour equivalent. Colour can sometimes act as a distraction in a photo, and removing it can help to re-focus the viewer's attention on the intended subject.

Black and white photography can be largely boiled down to five key concepts. Developing your familiarity with them will help you take more informed black and white shots, and the same concepts can also be used to improve your colour photos.

Shape and Form

When you remove colour from an image you can no longer rely on it to provide interest or a focal point in a scene. This may seem obvious but it can be easy to forget. By doing away with colour we also remove one of the most potentially distracting elements in a photo.

Form and shape are all-important in black and white photography. When looking for a good shot, look beyond the colours in a scene and instead focus you attention on the shapes. Arrange them in a way that emphasises the most interesting aspect of the shape, or creates an intriguing composition of different shapes.

Contrast

Without differences in colour to separate elements in your scene, you must instead introduce contrasting shades into your black and white photos.

You can use contrast to help your main subject stand out - for example by photographing a light subject against a dark background - and also to add depth by including a variety of tones and shades in your photo.

Pattern

Many patterns, particularly subtle ones, often go unnoticed in colour photos, because the colours draw attention away from the pattern itself. Black and white photography gives you a much better chance of capturing interesting patterns because it focuses the viewer's attention on the shapes formed by the elements in a scene.

Texture

In the same way that patterns can be lost in colour photography, textures can be too. When we see a colour photo, our mind immediately begins to identify and label the elements in the scene, meaning that we often do not really "see" the photo, but instead see our mind's interpretation of it.

When we photograph in black and white, the mind no longer has that colour information to work with, and so pays more attention to elements such as texture, making them appear much more prominent.

Lighting

Lighting is absolutely key to a good black and white photograph because it affects all of the above elements - shape, contrast, pattern and texture.

When thinking about your lighting, consider how it will influence all of these factors, and choose a setup that enhances as many as possible.

Side lighting often produces the most dramatic black and white photos. It picks out the edges of shapes and increases contrast by adding highlights, and the shadows it creates add interest to the scene as well as enhancing textures and patterns.
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5 Essential Tips for Black and White Photography

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Black and white photography offers a unique perspective on many subjects. Removing colour brings out the hidden details, textures, and shapes. Black and white photography is sometimes treated as the "poor relation" of colour photography. After all, why limit yourself to shades of gray when you can use the entire spectrum of colours?

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A resource for teachers and students of photography in UK schools and colleges

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A Brief History of Photography and the Camera

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A Brief History of Photography and the Camera

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Good simple overview of the evolution of photography (student friendly for a research project?)

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Photography has come a long way in its relatively short history. In almost 200 years, the camera developed from a plain box that took blurry photos to the high-tech mini computers found in today's DSLRs and smartphones.

The story of photography is fascinating and it's possible to go into great detail. However, let's take a brief look at the highlights and major developments of this scientific art form.

The First Cameras

The basic concept of photography has been around since about the 5th century B.C.E. It wasn't until an Iraqi scientist developed something called the camera obscura in the 11th century that the art was born.

Even then, the camera did not actually record images, it simply projected them onto another surface. The images were also upside down, though they could be traced to create accurate drawings of real objects such as buildings.

The first camera obscura used a pinhole in a tent to project an image from outside the tent into the darkened area. It was not until the 17th century that the camera obscura became small enough to be portable. Basic lenses to focus the light were also introduced around this time.

The First Permanent Images

Photography, as we know it today, began in the late 1830s in France. Joseph Nicéphore Niépce used a portable camera obscura to expose a pewter plate coated with bitumen to light. This is the first recorded image that did not fade quickly.

Niépce's success led to a number of other experiments and photography progressed very rapidly. Daguerreotypes, emulsion plates, and wet plates were developed almost simultaneously in the mid- to late-1800s.

With each type of emulsion, photographers experimented with different chemicals and techniques. The following are the three that were instrumental in the development of modern photography.

Daguerreotype

Niépce's experiment led to a collaboration with Louis Daguerre. The result was the creation of the daguerreotype, a forerunner of modern film.

A copper plate was coated with silver and exposed to iodine vapor before it was exposed to light.

To create the image on the plate, the early daguerreotypes had to be exposed to light for up to 15 minutes.

The daguerreotype was very popular until it was replaced in the late 1850s by emulsion plates.

Emulsion Plates

Emulsion plates, or wet plates, were less expensive than daguerreotypes and required only two or three seconds of exposure time. This made them much more suited to portrait photographs, which was the most common use of photography at the time. Many photographs from the Civil War were produced on wet plates.

These wet plates used an emulsion process called the Collodion process, rather than a simple coating on the image plate. It was during this time that bellows were added to cameras to help with focusing.

Two common types of emulsion plates were the ambrotype and the tintype. Ambrotypes used a glass plate instead of the copper plate of the daguerreotypes. Tintypes used a tin plate. While these plates were much more sensitive to light, they had to be developed quickly. Photographers needed to have chemistry on hand and many traveled in wagons that doubled as a darkroom.

In the 1870s, photography took another huge leap forward. Richard Maddox improved on a previous invention to make dry gelatine plates that were nearly equal to wet plates in speed and quality.

These dry plates could be stored rather than made as needed. This allowed photographers much more freedom in taking photographs. The process also allowed for smaller cameras that could be hand-held. As exposure times decreased, the first camera with a mechanical shutter was developed.

Cameras for Everyone

Photography was only for professionals and the very rich until George Eastman started a company called Kodak in the 1880s.

Eastman created a flexible roll film that did not require constantly changing the solid plates. This allowed him to develop a self-contained box camera that held 100 film exposures. The camera had a small single lens with no focusing adjustment.

The consumer would take pictures and send the camera back to the factory for the film to be developed and prints made, much like modern disposable cameras. This was the first camera inexpensive enough for the average person to afford.

The film was still large in comparison to today's 35mm film. It was not until the late 1940s that 35mm film became cheap enough for the majority of consumers to use.

The Horrors of War

Around 1930, Henri-Cartier Bresson and other photographers began to use small 35mm cameras to capture images of life as it occurred rather than staged portraits. When World War II started in 1939, many photojournalists adopted this style.

The posed portraits of World War I soldiers gave way to graphic images of war and its aftermath. Images such as Joel Rosenthal's photograph, Raising the Flag on Iwo Jima brought the reality of war home and helped galvanize the American people like never before. This style of capturing decisive moments shaped the face of photography forever.

The Wonder of Instant Images

At the same time that 35mm cameras were becoming popular, Polaroid introduced the Model 95. Model 95 used a secret chemical process to develop film inside the camera in less than a minute.

This new camera was fairly expensive but the novelty of instant images caught the public's attention. By the mid-1960s, Polaroid had many models on the market and the price had dropped so that even more people could afford it.

In 2008, Polaroid stopped making their famous instant film and took their secrets with them. Many groups such as The Impossible Project and Lomography have tried to revive instant film with limited success. As of 2018, it remains difficult to replicate the quality that was found in a Polaroid.

Advanced Image Control

While the French introduced the permanent image, the Japanese brought easier image control to the photographer.

In the 1950s, Asahi (which later became Pentax) introduced the Asahiflex and Nikon introduced its Nikon F camera. These were both SLR-type cameras and the Nikon F allowed for interchangeable lenses and other accessories.

For the next 30 years, SLR-style cameras remained the camera of choice. Many improvements were introduced to both the cameras and the film itself.

Introducing Smart Cameras

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, compact cameras that were capable of making image control decisions on their own were introduced. These "point and shoot" cameras calculated shutter speed, aperture, and focus, leaving photographers free to concentrate on composition.

The automatic cameras became immensely popular with casual photographers. Professionals and serious amateurs continued to prefer to make their own adjustments and enjoyed the image control available with SLR cameras.

The Digital Age

In the 1980s and 1990s, numerous manufacturers worked on cameras that stored images electronically. The first of these were point-and-shoot cameras that used digital media instead of film.

By 1991, Kodak had produced the first digital camera that was advanced enough to be used successfully by professionals. Other manufacturers quickly followed and today Canon, Nikon, Pentax, and other manufacturers offer advanced digital SLR (DSLR) cameras.

Even the most basic point-and-shoot camera now takes higher quality images than Niépce's pewter plate, and smartphones can easily pull off a high-quality printed photograph.

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Explore the Major Advances in the History of Photography

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Photography has come a long way in its relatively short history. In almost 200 years, the camera developed from a plain box that took blurry photos to the high-tech mini computers found in today's DSLRs and smartphones. The story of photography is fascinating and it's possible to go into great detail.

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Play around with a DSLR online