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https://www.shutterstock.com/editorial/image-editorial/gigi-hadid-models-on-catwalk-13436536ao

https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/women/coats-and-jackets/herringbone-weave-maxi-overcoat-6600593CR7501262.html

I chose to do an online comp for stella mcartney since, I had seen some tartan shirts during my compshop in selfridges that I felt correlated with Vivienne Westwood.

This jacket was instantly speaking to me since as my garment went through development whilst making my calico piece, I never really had a reference image for the shake of the jacket I was designing, and this fitted the silhouette perfectly.

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This garment stood out during my initial comp, mainly due to the tartan but also the colour. Since its also an autumn/winter piece, the brown is similar many of the Vivienne pieces that I've looked into.

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I did an online comp on thom browne as I noticed the brand through one of my peers research what stuck out to me was the similarities in t he use of prints, big shoulders and most prominently, lapels.

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Here I cut the patterns out, I for some reason forgot to take a picture of the lapel pieces (there are 4 identical ones, which I will sew 2 together and flip inside out).

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Here I developed my pattern pieces. I used an existing board for the back and sleeve panels, however, I adjust a front pannel to fit in my collar piece, which I created myself, and also added 1.5cm onto a front piece for the buttons. I feel that the lapel might be not as dramatic as I intend however, this is just for a calico practice, so if it is I will work on it for the actual piece.

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I thought initially that my design was quite simple however, after speaking to my teacher, quickly realised that it wasn't. I still wanted to incorporate the collar, since I think its the main event however, I made the decision to remove the side panels, since there is no similar pattern, and I don't want to improvise too much and risk making a poor garment.

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Here we traced a board for practice.

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This is An Italian based mill called Lavenham associates.

They can produce t he fabrics on display such as this one in any colour.

The material is an organic gots cotton:

`The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has a clearly defined set of criteria and is transparent. GOTS is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain.`- https://global-standard.org/the-standard#:~:text=The%20Global%20Organic%20Textile%20Standard,the%20entire%20textile%20supply%20chain.

Their minimum fabric requirements were 1200m and are 330g per linen meter

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This is a different colour variation of the fabric from the last post. I just thought it was interesting that some of the mills were also manufacturers- as was this one, and this is one of the garments they have in production.

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Some more tartan fabrics that I collected.

This is from a mill named STM fashion.

It was quite a soft fabric and is 100% cotton.

It weighs 130g per meter.

Its made in Pakistan and has a minimum order of 100meters.

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These are the parts of the garment I originally thought I would have to make pre-research, after speaking to peers and my teacher I realised that certain parts such as the collar, cuffs and back pieces would be made differently.

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These are the parts of the garment I originally thought I would have to make pre-research, after speaking to peers and my teacher I realised that certain parts such as the collar, cuffs and back pieces would be made differently.

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Springtex limited is the name of the company producing this fabric.

I wanted to collect some different tartan shirt fabrics, since I am doing my project on a Vivienne Westwood shirt.

This mill is based in China,

Its a 68%cotton, 30% recycled cotton and 2% elastane blend and is also a 2x2 twill.

181g per meter.

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This fabric from the brand and mill: Candor textiles

The jacket is a vegan jacket due to it being 100% organic cotton, it gets its leather look from an acrylic based wax coating, which was a bit disappointing to be wince the cotton alternative is sustainable, this cancelled it out a bit.

The jacket is produced in India, and the minimum fabric purchasing requirements are 500m minimum

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"Contains organic cotton sourced from farms that take a regenerative approach to cotton growing.Regenerative agriculture focuses on enhancing local."

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Vivienne Westwood is well known for their effort in sustainability, with their mantra being 'buy less, choose well, make it last', The collection that I am looking into (fall22), was actually entirely made of archived pieces. This is such a big step in my opinion and I am currently asking around to see if anyone I know has tartans that I can up cycle for my design.

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Another garment that I passes, here we can see some of the draping that is common for Vivienne Westwood, accessorised with pearls which are iconic for Westwood and obviously the red and blue tartan.

Im starting to go Vivienne crazy :)

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I didn't collect information about this garment however I still found the silhouette interesting. I took notes from the irregularly placed buttons and included it into a couple of my initial sketches.

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Another big lapel and dramatic shoulder, I also like the consistency of how many prints Vivienne Westwood uses across all of their collections.

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The second jacket I picked up because this collars actually similar to the shape I am aiming for in my design, it also showcases the Vivienne Westwood plaid print which we see almost as much as much as the tartan.

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This garment caught my eye first due to the collar,¥, being exactly what I'm aiming to encompass in my work, where have you ever seen a collar like this being used?!?!

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I did my comp shop in Vivienne Westwood, after my Selfridges hunt, I regretted this decision and am considering returning to Selfridges since, the range at Vivienne Westwood is much smaller and therefore, finding garments based on what I found at Selfridges proved very difficult.

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Saint laurent had some tartan in and this blazer looked like something vivienne wood sell, although maybe a little simple for viviennes brand.

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This is the design I initially planned to go with. A beige shirt, taking notes from the colour themes from autumn/winter collections, featuring big buttons seen all over Vivienne's 22 collection, red based tartan cutouts on the sides and a matching dramatic double lapel, taking notes from Vivienne's signature tartan printing.

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While asking about the fabric from the lavenham associates mill, I kept hearing references to gotts cotton and wanted to make sure to research it once I got home.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed by leading standard setters to define world-wide recognised requirements for organic textiles. From the harvesting of the raw materials, environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing to labelling, textiles certified to GOTS provide a credible assurance to the consumer.- https://global-standard.org

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Here is another garment from saint Laurent which when going back to the fall 22 collection that Im basing my design on, i realised how similar the concepts are:

Vivienne Westwood RTW Fall 2022 [PHOTOS] – WWD

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This blazer itself isn't very vivienne westwood, but i was looking out for dramatic collars, here is a similar blazer from vivienne westwood that I found.

Vivienne Westwood Navy Striped Classic Blazer Vivienne Westwood (clothbase.com)

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The final reference i used for my sketch, a throwback to fall 94, proving the consistency in vivienne westwoods signatures.

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Another amazing collar

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I knew i had to go straight to burberry since they also are known for plaid and tartan, I found many tartan garments, however, this one screamed vivienne to me the most, although a little simpler than most.

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Vivienne herself, in both the dramatic collar and the double neutral toned tartan.

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Research for 04.01.23

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I started to look for vivienne westwood pieces with exaggerated collars, and here's a listing for a second hand jacket, i also took note of the repeated use of the big brown buttons.

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I asked some peers for brands who are known for their collar and was directed to Thom brownes, this is their fall 23 collection.

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Covering all of the main things I will be looking for on my comp, looking at the brand I am studying (Vivienne westwood), and also its competitors.

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Another exaggerated collar that i decided i wanted to include with my design

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This jacket caught my eye due to the padded shoulders, it reminded me of this look from viviennes 23 collection:

Vivienne Westwood Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show | Vogue

I liked the drama from the shoulders.

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a tartan cutout on the sides of the shirt, and the matching red based tartan as the dramatic collar, the red of the cotton shirt will be brown to go with the 23 fall colours.

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Another big defined collar, and something else i took note of was the big statement buttons that i spotted with a few of the collections looks.

Also the colours are something i took note of, around half the collection was beige/ brown, most likely down to it being a fall collection.

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I hadnt determined the colour of the overall base, however, the shirt would be a cotton or linen shirt, with a red based tartan collar, and big black buttons stemming up the collar.

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I wanted to do some comparisons to other high end brands in selfridges and was aiming to find similar characteristics and trends in these garments as vivienne westwood. For example, tartan, big collars, defined collars.

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I used this as a way to build on my sketching sills as the are quite poor, so it took me a while to develop my collar dimensions, more about the research i did for this in secondary research.

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mot people will associate tartan with Vivienne Westwood as i think i can comfortably say that it can be Vivienne's signature.

I love tartan and still wanted to create a garment that i myself like and feel some connect to, so i knew i wanted an element of tartan within my garment

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Final page of sketches for vivienne westwood (day 1)

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Final page of sketches for vivienne westwood (day 1)

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during the days and weeks leading up to me actually beginning the final garment I collected tartans and other fabrics that were unwanted, whether it was damaged materials from work or asking my friends for old clothes. here is an example of a garment that I Brought in from home that I considered as the lapel fabric.

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During my research something that drew me further to the brand was that the collection that I chose was actually up cycled from old collections and headstock materials used in previous collections. Vivienne Westwood is famously known for her efforts in sustainability and this pushed my to want to do the same with my garments.

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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/vivienne-westwood

The process of choosing Vivienne as my project brand was when i decided i wanted to create a feminine shirt garment, i wanted to create a staple piece which was still quite simple in production.

I used the vogue runway app to find the looks that i went with, i knew i wanted a ready to wear collection from the recent years so that its still partially in trend, but also to be able to create a garment that fits with the rest of their looks.

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experimenting with other current trends lace up, bows, lace, ribbons, but stil mainly keeping to the shirts.

-https://pin.it/7hrMQrG

-https://pin.it/Jb02Uo3

-୨୧ ⋆ .⋆ in 2023 | Girly outfits, Fashion outfits, Cute casual outfits (pinterest.co.uk)

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experimenting with other current trends lace up, bows, lace, ribbons, but stil mainly keeping to the shirts.

-https://pin.it/7hrMQrG

-https://pin.it/Jb02Uo3

-୨୧ ⋆ .⋆ in 2023 | Girly outfits, Fashion outfits, Cute casual outfits (pinterest.co.uk)

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Continuing eith the theme of dramatic lapelsand shoulders I actually got the sin-oration for this design, not from the 22 collection, but actually from the au94 collection.

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1994-ready-to-wear/vivienne-westwood/slideshow/collection#26

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This is a sketch for a very femenine tailored shirt, i wanted peats in the center and on a flared 3/4 length sleeve, with a curved double collar. the shirt was going to be baby pink cotton, i decided to pass on this concept because i caught myself out with planning something that would be s complex i probably wouldnt even know where to start, my concept that helped me come up with this is going to be on primary research because i cant link more than 1 image here.

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this idea i got because i was still working around the tailored shirt idea and remembered a shirt from Karen Millen that i had seen on tiktok:

https://vm.tiktok.com/ZGe2dQTYo/

but instead i wanted to embed layer of pink lace amongst the pleated ruffles,

lace is quite in right now in terms of the consumers of urban. myself ang my peers.

I also added this detailing that i found whilst researching ideas

https://pin.it/5HzZIhc

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I developed this design from this pin:

Pin by Paupinaortiz on Guardado rápido | Fashion inspo outfits, Cool outfits, Fashion outfits (pinterest.co.uk)

My plan was to recreate this with a thin black denim and to replace the strings and hems to a thick white contrast stitching like these:

True religion contrast stitch denim jacket... - Depop

I loved the concept of the exaggerated collar.

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My initial idea was to do a more high street brand: urban outfitters, I wanted to do this as i think when creating my own clothes and brand i des a lot of characteristics are similar, in style, its a style which i am familiar and comfortable with, hence why i went with it.

The research that i worked on was mainly kept on pintrest, where i collected ideas for my garment.

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This is what gave me the idea for idea 3, i went to another floor to see all of the fabric options and passes this students work on the way. i loved the colour and pleats, and pleats are some of my favorite parts of sewing, even though they're frustrating, so i thought of the third sketch.

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A standardized global collection of coded colours.

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Research for 04.01.23

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I developed this design from this pin:

Pin by Paupinaortiz on Guardado rápido | Fashion inspo outfits, Cool outfits, Fashion outfits (pinterest.co.uk)

My plan was to recreate this with a thin black denim and to replace the strings and hems to a thick white contrast stitching like these:

True religion contrast stitch denim jacket... - Depop

I loved the concept of the exaggerated collar.

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this idea i got because i was still working around the tailored shirt idea and remembered a shirt from Karen Millen that i had seen on tiktok:

https://vm.tiktok.com/ZGe2dQTYo/

but instead i wanted to embed layer of pink lace amongst the pleated ruffles,

lace is quite in right now in terms of the consumers of urban. myself ang my peers.

I also added this detailing that i found whilst researching ideas

https://pin.it/5HzZIhc

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This is a sketch for a very femenine tailored shirt, i wanted peats in the center and on a flared 3/4 length sleeve, with a curved double collar. the shirt was going to be baby pink cotton, i decided to pass on this concept because i caught myself out with planning something that would be s complex i probably wouldnt even know where to start, my concept that helped me come up with this is going to be on primary research because i cant link more than 1 image here.

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experimenting with other current trends lace up, bows, lace, ribbons, but stil mainly keeping to the shirts.

-https://pin.it/7hrMQrG

-https://pin.it/Jb02Uo3

-୨୧ ⋆ .⋆ in 2023 | Girly outfits, Fashion outfits, Cute casual outfits (pinterest.co.uk)

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Each edge of the fabric

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The way ¥in which the fabric is woven

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•Pure London show: A manufacturer fair and catwalk that we attended, I collected pictures of some of the materials and styles that linked to my coursework.

•I kept an eye out for big lapels, tartan, punk themes, and anything else that was dramatic enough to look like Vivienne

•I think this trip was useful as I was able to to speak to the manufacturers directly and get a better picture of the pricings and moq of garments.

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I noticed this late during the show that was interesting a two tone- double lapel, which I thought linked to my project as I am working on similarly dramatic lapel.

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Of course, the second I saw tartan I ran to get a picture, although a garment like this isn't in line with the style of

garments we can see in vividness 23 collection, or any other recent collection, here Is an older collection which also includes a tartan mini skirt.

https://www.vogue.com/article/vivienne-westwood-90s-kilt-kate-moss

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I wanted to log these looks as they reminded me of some of the designs I used as inspiration during my design development for the lips London project, the lace and mesh was something we wanted to include in our comp shops and that we ultimately used in our final design.

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we were on the hunt for an all lace dress as that is how we decided to design our final garment, we couldn't find one so we compared these two materials instead.

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(sorry all of my powerpoint names were mixed up)

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(sorry all of my powerpoint names were mixed up)

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Throughout the compshop the main points that we were looking for were, florals, mesh, lace, we wanted to collect images from very summery dresses.

here is an example as a spring summer dress that was somewhat similar in looks to lipsy Londons. from this specific comp shop we derived that the brands were of similar materials and designs however, different price ranges, we mainly but this to the brand you're paying for, however also we concluded that Zaras construction was poorer and faster than most of the garments from tipsy London

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I have also had a CV however, haven't needed to use it for around 2 years, since I have had one consistent job, around a month ago I created a new one off that GPT, however still felt that It lacked something, during the careers day I fully updated it, still taking points from the chair gpt cv and have now sent it off to a careers advisor for feedback.

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this section relating to explaining my personality regarding to people that I interact with was the most interesting part of the quiz since I felt as though most of the point were incredibly accurate.

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Answering questions relating to my personality type and how I react to certain scenarios day to day

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I have had a LinkedIn before hand but it was extremely outdated and I never use it although I do understand how useful of a tool is. I finally stopped putting it off and updated it and set it to public.

I also started adding my peers on it.

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I found this whilst scavenging around the school for scrap materials which would be tartan and within the colour this¥me for an autumn winter collection.

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a days work of my garment...

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My part within the group project was to develop our design my taking inspiration by the lipsy range currently on the next website. I wanted to work closely with the target audience that my peers concluded with in their research as well as this.

we subsequently ended up with the themes of: lace, mesh, florals and flowy maxi dresses.

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finally whilst rummaging through the fras boxes of garments and used fabrics I found this tartan as well as another stretchy black material for the main body of my garment,

ideally the black fabric would've had a stretch closer to the calico version I created however, from the collection of materials that I had, there wasn't enough fabric for my entire garment with any other of the fabrics.

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Project 2 research

https://global-standard.org

https://www.newandlingwood.com/advice-centre/made-to-measure/ready-to-wear-clothing

https://fashionunited.com/landing/fashionweeks-around-the-world-list

https://www.teenvogue.com/story/what-is-fashion-week

https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/vivienne-westwood-a-taste-for-the-past#:~:text=Westwood%20was%20renowned%20for%20her,Westwood%27s%20designs%20referenced%20historical%20styles.

https://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/household-hints-tips/cleaning-organizing/laundry-symbols.htm

https://www.flannels.com/stylenews/post/vivienne-westwood-designer-focus

https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-punk-fashion-sex-pistols-cec/index.html#

https://study.com/learn/lesson/70s-punk-fashion-subculture-history.html#:~:text=Punk%20culture%20developed%20in%20the,performances%20at%20the%20club%20CBGB.

https://www.altpress.com/punk-rock-artists-70s-new-york-city/

https://www.lochcarron.co.uk/our-journal/history-of-tartan/#:~:text=The%20earliest%20evidence%20of%20tartan,to%20identify%20different%20Scottish%20clans.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoulder_pad_(fashion)

https://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/116577/3/shoulder%20pad%20in%20harvard.pdf

https://www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/women/thom-browne-bow-embellished-poplin-shirt-item-22328945.aspx

https://www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/women/thom-browne-wide-lapel-tartan-overcoat-item-19726636.aspx?lang=en-GB&size=21&storeid=14371&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA5L2tBhBTEiwAdSxJXwQ-0A4ydyk86y1BZhdzhYSAyVz8caxIbXXdYAxUXaKKBkyVd--baBoCLaAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&clickref=1101lyc8RfXS&utm_source=nmpicss&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=PHUK&pid=performancehorizon_int&c=PHUK&clickid=1101lyc8RfXS&af_siteid=nmpicss&af_cost_model=CPA&af_channel=affiliate&is_retargeting=true

https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/women/coats-and-jackets/herringbone-weave-maxi-overcoat-6600593CR7501262.html

https://www.net-a-porter.com/en-gb/shop/product/alexander-mcqueen/clothing/blazers/cropped-silk-satin-trimmed-wool-twill-blazer/1647597302793696?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GOO%3ANAP%3AEU%3AGB%3ALO%3AENG%3ASEAU%3APLA%3ASLR%3AMXO%3ANEW%3AWN%3AALEXANDER-MCQUEEN%3ALV0%3ALV1%3ALV2%3AXXX%3A8%3A%3A&utm_id=19744289219&utm_term=3074457345625724938&vtp00=GOOGLE&vtp01=SEAU&vtp02=155537663413&vtp03=pla-871652424207&vtp04=g&vtp05=c&vtp06=680974329277&vtp07=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA5L2tBhBTEiwAdSxJX8Sf6mliV7w2nzkzlaudcbfeANNb4yhqZyLbgr6tBr4kSvF-K_C2qRoCOe4QAvD_BwE

https://www.pantone-colours.com

https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/vivienne-westwood-fall-2023-paris-fashion-week-review

https://www.vogue.com/article/vivienne-westwood-90s-kilt-kate-moss

https://clan.com/help/tartans-fabrics-industry/tartan-weaving-manufacture-worldwide