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Here at Style Curator HQ we love indoor plants... trouble is, we're not that great at keeping them alive!

Some of our recent victims include that pretty lace fern, a chili plant and a CACTUS! Yes, seems we can even kill a cactus, ha!

We have tried and tested most of the plants on our top 20 hard to kill indoor plants list so we're pretty confident even someone with a black thumb could keep them alive.
Related article:

12 Reasons why you're killing your indoor plants: How to keep indoor plants alive
Related article: Growing pothos: Easy tips to propagate and care for this plant like a pro
Top 20 hard to kill indoor plants

1. String of pearls

This oh-so-pretty succulent gets its name from its pearl-like strands that can become large and round like marbles. The trick to keeping this beauty alive is to pot it in soil that drains well, such as cactus soil that has a sandy consistency, and to keep it out of direct sunlight. String of pearls likes to dry out completely in between waters so be sure not to overwater it!

2. Peace lily

Gina's peace lily has been going strong for over 6 years and the best thing about this plant is it shows you when it needs water (all the arms of it just flop down) and once you give it water, it's back to being A-OK.

Aloe vera plant

Don't worry if it looks like it has well and truly died with every single leaf turning brown, this plant has a way of rising from the ashes. Simply remove all the dead leaves (you may be looking at nothing but dirt) and just water well once a week - there's a good chance you'll see new leaves coming up in just a couple of weeks.

3. Golden pothos

This attractive, durable and easy-to-grow vine plant loves bright, indirect sunlight and can withstand high temperatures. They're also said to be among the best indoor plants for air purification.

4. Spider plant

Possibly the hardiest indoor plant on the list, you'll love how forgiving the spider plant is. It can grow in a wide range of conditions and suffers from few problem, making it ideal for beginner gardeners. The only things to look out for with a spider plant is not to overwater - too much water can lead to root rot and it likes to dry out completely in between watering - and to place in well-drained soil.

5. Mother-in-law's tongue

This beautiful, sculptural plant requires minimal maintenance. Simply water when soil is dry and transplant every year or two, when it has outgrown its pot. Like most of the plants on this list, you also need to watch out for overwatering which can drown the plant. When the plant is large enough, you can also propagate it by pulling away a clump and placing it in a new pot.

6. Aloe

Aloe is one of our fave hard to kill indoor plants and has too many health benefits to name, such as helping with insomnia and air purification. It's hardy and beautiful and should be treated it in the same way as any cactus plant - keep watering to a minimum and ensure there are plenty of drainage holes in the pot.

7. Echeverias

Echeverias is the succulent on our desk below and not only is it still going strong, we've been able to take cuttings and propagate it many times.

You can find out more about propagating succulents here.

Shop our favourite indoor pots

8. Ponytail palm

Over recent years, this plant has gained popularity as an indoor plant. With sleek curly leaves and bulb-like trunk, it grows happily in most conditions. Keep watering to a minimum during winter and fertilise once or twice a year to keep it happy and healthy.

9. Ox tongue

This aloe-like succulent has been crossed many times over the years so there is a wide range of unusual varieties now available. This plant prefers dryer conditions and can form a fungal infection in high humidity but otherwise it's a robust plant that can tolerate more shade than most succulents, making it ideal for indoors.

10. Zebra haworthia

A small but striking plant that requires minimal care. It can store water in its leaves so will survive with even less frequent watering than most succulent plants. It can also withstand full, direct sunlight.

11. Jade plant

The other week we used a jade plant in our DIY mini moss ball tutorial (shown below) and it is one super hardy plant!

It can tolerate a lot, including infrequent watering and strong sun, and is said to be a lucky tree or money tree 🙂

12. Philodendron

For a mega dose of botanical vibes, you can't look past this stunning plant with large, glossy leaves. It's easy to care for this plant if you look for the signs - if the leaves turn yellow, it's a sign it's getting too much sunlight. Also, test the soil before watering as the top 2-5cms should be dry before watering again.

13. Prayer plant

You also need to keep a bit of an eye on the Prayer plant as it doesn't cope in direct sunlight and benefits from an all-purpose fertiliser feed every month. This minimal upkeep is worth it for those striking leaves #hearteyes.

String of hearts

14. String of hearts

Another of our favourite plants is this dainty vine succulent. String of hearts can grow long, fine strands up to several metres long with delicate heart-shaped leaves. This plant will enjoy the sunniest room of your home.

Shop our favourite indoor pots

15. Fiddle leaf fig

It wasn't so long ago that this was the hottest trending indoor plant and while others have now rivalled its position, it's still a beautiful and low-maintenance plant - provided you know a few simple tips to care for it. Keep your fig in a bright room but out of direct sunlight or the leaves will turn brown and shrivel. Also, avoid over watering (it can go almost all winter without any water) as it cannot tolerate overwatering.

If your fig looks like it's dead, you may be able to resuscitate it by giving it a home in your bathroom for a few months. The lighting and humidity of a bathroom works wonders and brought our fiddle back to life.

16. Umbrella plant

A bit of an under-appreciated house plant is the umbrella plant and we think it's due for its time in the limelight soon! This plant can grow to several metres tall but there is also a dwarf variety available. Like most of the plants on this list, it prefers dry soil to wet so go easy on watering. It doesn't require fertilising but you can give it some to promote growth.

17. Burro tail

Aloe vera plant

Also known as 'Donkey tail' this is one cool looking succulent that grows happily in a pot but looks especially great and thrives in a hanging planter. Caring for this plant is easy peasy, simply keep it out of harsh sunlight (some direct morning or afternoon sun is ok), make sure the pot and soil offer good drainage, and give it a good dose of plant food at least once a year. A healthy and happy Burro tail can flower with a spectacular cluster of small reddish flowers.

18. Dracaena

One of the most common indoor plants and for good reason - it's easy to care for, has impressive spiky tropical foliage, and helps to purify air. This plant thrives in warmer conditions and prefers lower light conditions.

19. Rubber plant

Also known as a Ficus elastica, this large indoor plant has beautiful deep green glossy leaves and is easy to keep alive when you know how.

Position the plant in a room where it gets bright light but not direct sunlight. When it comes to watering, you can water it 1-2 times a week during summer months and only 1-2 times a month during winter months. It's also a good idea to wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to avoid dust build up - your plant will love it and it will look more beautiful too.

20. English ivy

Although considered a pest in some regions (as it can grow wild in nature and threaten other species), it cannot do any harm in a pot in your home. In fact, it actually does a great job at improving air quality in your home. This evergreen vine requires part shade and well-drained soil.
What's your go-to indoor plant? Have you discovered other hard to kill indoor plants? Tell us in the comments below!
If you love these plant suggestions, you might like to also check out the Top 10 trending indoor plants right NOW here.

Many diseases that kill plants can also be reduced by growing plants in water, here's how!

Be sure to 'Pin' the graphic at the start of this article to your Pinterest account so you can easily find this list of hard to kill indoor plants 😉

This article was originally published in June 2015 but was updated with new information and images.

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Top 20 hard to kill indoor plants l STYLE CURATOR

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Here at Style Curator HQ we love indoor plants... trouble is, we're not that great at keeping them alive! Some of our recent victims include that pretty lace fern, a chili plant and a CACTUS! Yes, seems we can even kill a cactus, ha!

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Home Designing may earn commissions for purchases made through the links on our website. See our disclosure policy.

Even those without a green thumb can appreciate the beauty of houseplants - if you're one of those people, this post is for you! We've compiled information on 32 low-maintenance plants ranging from tiny succulents all the way to small trees, something for every skill level. This outdoorsy touch is a great way to boost mood, add color to your interior, and build up gardening skill. Many people even enjoy keeping houseplants to purify the air, but it's important to consider some important caveats to that NASA study everyone keeps mentioning about - with that in mind, this list focuses on attractive aesthetics and easy maintenance only. Enjoy the search!

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32 Beautiful Indoor House Plants That Are Also Easy To Maintain

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Home Designing may earn commissions for purchases made through the links on our website. See our disclosure policy. Even those without a green thumb can appreciate the beauty of houseplants - if you're one of those people, this post is for you!

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Calandiva Care Guide: Everything You Need To Know — Plant Care Tips and More · La Résidence

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The Calandiva is a sturdy flowering succulent that makes an excellent decorative plant indoors. Learn all about how to care for this plant and how to keep it flowering for years to come!

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Sansevieria Cylindrica (san-se-VEER-ee-uh sil-IN-dree-kuh) is a perennial succulent plant that belongs to the genus Sansevieria part of the Asparagaceae family.

Cylindrical leaves of the Plant Spear Sansevieria

It is native to Angola and commonly referred to as Cylindrical African Spear plant. But other common names as well such as:

African Spear

Skyline Spear Sansevieria

Cylindrical Mother-in-Laws tongue

Spear orchid

NOTE: The Sansevieria genus has been reclassified as a Dracaena. Cylindrica is now known as Dracaena Angolensis.

Sansevieria Cylindrica Care

African spear var. patula 'Boncel'

Sansevieria cylindrica var. patula 'Boncel the ' Starfish Sansevieria ' is a unique variety of Cylindrica. Mature plants are shorter, more compact with an almost 'stubby' appearance.

Very attractive in smaller pots when displayed on a credenza in a complimenting decorative container.

Size and Growth

African spear plants have a slow, upward growth with stiff leaves that can grow to be about 4' tall with a spread of 1' foot.

The succulents leaves are circular about 1″ inch (2.5 cm) thick and taper gradually to a point.

Each leaf has several shallow channels running from base of the plant to the tip. The leaves also have crossbands of dark green.

In the right conditions, it can grow a 3' feet long shoot with 1″ inch flowers.

As the leaves mature and depending on the lighting they arch to form a graceful spray.

Flowering and Fragrance

Sansevieria cylindrica is characterized by a fan-shape that has stiff, dark cylindrical green leaves. Snake plant flower spikes appear on older plants from the leaf base.

These flower spikes grow clusters of green-white blooms that have a tubular shape and can be tinted with some shades of pink.

There is a pleasant fragrance to these flowers and sometimes bear small berries about 0.4" long and orange-red in color.

Light Requirements and Temperature

Sansevieria boncel is very light tolerant. When you grow Sansevieria as an indoor ornamental plant, place it in a spot with filtered bright light.

A north-facing window or sheer-curtained windows are ideal locations for Sansevieria cylindrica.

It will also be able to grow in more low light conditions but the colors will not be as bright, nor will it flower properly.

When growing Mother in Law plants outdoors, it is best placed in a partially shaded, bright light location but will grow in full direct sunlight.

Details On: Light Requirements For Snake Plants

Some shade will ensure that cylindrical leaves grow in a more upright position for a better appearance.

Ideal temperatures for Sansevieria are between 65° to 80° degrees Fahrenheit.

It can handle fluctuations in room temperatures but anything below 50° degrees Fahrenheit might be too much for the plant to handle.

While Sansevieria cylindrica tolerates dry air, too much can be damaging. Take care not to place it too close to protect it from air vents and drafts.

Houseplant Care: Watering and Feeding

This drought-tolerant plant does not need a lot of water.

Water thoroughly while Cylindrica is growing and allow the potting mixture to almost dry out before watering again.

Once a plant becomes established, you can wait even longer before watering.

Once every other week should be sufficient.

Be careful to not overwater as it can cause root rot and leaves to turn yellow.

and getting too much water on the leaves can also cause them to stop growing.

Similarly, this plant does not need lots of fertilizer.

A once month application of diluted liquid fertilizer (half strength) is enough during the growing season.

Plants do not need feeding during the winter months.

As with all Sansevieria species it is best to under-fertilize your plants.

Soil and Transplanting

Fast and well-draining potting soil is preferred for this plant. Sandy soil or a good cactus soil works best.

Regular potting soils often retain excess water to be effective unless there is some added drainage. Snake plants do not do well in soggy soil.

Transplant only when the plants need dividing because of overcrowding.

The root systems of plants like Sansevieria trifasciata have been known to break large clay pots.

Generally, plants will not require repotting for several years as the cylindrica Sansevieria does not mind cramped conditions.

Transplanting is done best early on in spring. Always use a pot with drainage holes.

If you are looking for a shorter variety with a similar look check out the Sansevieria Stuckyi snake plant.

How To Propagate The Cylindrical Mother in Laws Tongue

Propagate Sanseveria cylindrica through leaf cuttings, underground rhizomes, or division.

When using division as a means of propagation, wait until the leaves of the underground rhizomes are at least 6" long.

Take a sharp knife and remove a cluster basal rosette of leaves from the roots.

Knock off old soil and plant it directly into your new pot.

If using single leaf cutting, make sure they are between 3″ - 4″ inches and that they are planted upright to ensure proper growth.

Plant the African spear by pushing the cuttings into the potting mix and keep them in a bright spot.

Keep the soil moist and wait for the plant to take root. This could take a while.

Learn More about Sansevieria Propagation

Cylindrical Snake Plant Pests or Diseases

Sansevieria cylindrica is susceptible to vine weevils that eat away at the edges of the leaves.

This can cause the plant a lot of irreversible harm. Get rid of the adult weevil with a neem oil soil drench.

However, if the weevils manage to damage the roots significantly, the plant will probably be beyond saving.

NOTE: I've never needed to throw out a Sansevieria because of weevils.
Apart from vine weevils, be careful about overwatering plants so they won't experience root rot or other fungal infections.
Be careful while handling plant as the tip of the leaves can be very sharp and cut skin if not handled with caution.

An African spear sansevieria plant growing in pots 10″ inches and larger can also become very heavy to move around.

Suggested Uses for Cylindrical Snake Plant

This plant makes for a gorgeous ornamental addition as a potted plant to any house or garden.

The plant is very attractive when used to enhance contemporary designs when displayed on a pedestal.

Recommended Reading

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Sansevieria Cylindrica Care: Growing The Cylindrical Snake Plant

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Sansevieria Cylindrica (san-se-VEER-ee-uh sil-IN-dree-kuh) is a perennial succulent plant that belongs to the genus Sansevieria part of the Asparagaceae family. It is native to Angola and commonly referred to as Cylindrical African Spear plant. But other common names as well such as: African Spear Skyline Spear Sansevieria Cylindrical Mother-in-Laws tongue Spear orchid NOTE: The Sansevieria genus has been reclassified as a Dracaena.

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There are so many ways to create homes for our plants! We can display them on space-saving ladder plant stands, stick them in tiny terrarium homes or just plop them on top of a side table. Small indoor plants are a great option if you're tight on space, but they're not always the best answer if your floors and tabletops are filled to the brim. The solution? Look up! Chances are that you have lots of unused ceiling space that's overflowing with potential.

Many types of plants work in hanging planters, but not all of them look good in them. That's why we rounded up some of the best indoor hanging plants to help you pick the ones that work best for your own style. Bushy, trailing ivy plants work best if you're looking for a show-stopping plant for your living room. Airier plants, on the other hand, are better if you don't want to maintain long leaves and prefer a minimalist look.

In addition to plants, there are also lots of containers and hanging methods to choose! You can create a trendy macrame hanger to hold your plant or group a few together for a hanging indoor garden. To get some ideas and learn more about the best hanging plants for your home, take a look at our list and styling tips below.

Best Indoor Hanging Plants for Your Home

1. Air Plant (Tillandisa)

Air plants are the perfect low-maintenance plant to keep anywhere since they don't need soil to survive. Most people like to hang air plants in glass terrariums filled with colorful accents and trinkets. Keep your plant in a spot with good air circulation and plenty of bright light.

2. Arrowhead Plant (Syngonium podophyllum)

Arrowhead plants are also known as arrowhead vines or five fingers. All of these names are derived from the changing shape of the plant's leaves. The leaves start off as an arrowhead shape and eventually grow a few "fingers." The plant will grow into a long vine over time, so refrain from trimming the leaves to allow them to grow nice and long for a hanging basket. You can find these plants in shades of green, pink and burgundy. Arrowhead plants like humid conditions, so they're great plants for the bathroom or kitchen.

3. Bird's Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus)

These plants are epiphytes in the wild, meaning that they can latch onto other plants to grow. The shape of their leaves depends on the amount of sun they get. More sun exposure will give their leaves a scrunched up look and less sun will flatten out their leaves. Less sun is usually better because overexposure turns them yellow. Since they originate from tropical rainforests, bird's nest ferns also love humidity. This makes them another great plant to keep in the bathroom since the humidity in the environment closely resembles that of the wild.

4. Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)

Boston ferns prefer humid temperatures but tolerate lower humidities. Their feathery fronds make them a beautiful sight to see when they're housed in a hanging basket. However, make sure you keep these plants far from the top of the ceiling to allow proper air circulation. Boston ferns are great for purifying the air and are safe for pets, so they're a great plant to keep in the bedroom or living room.

5. Burro's Tail (Sedum morganianum)

These hanging houseplants are succulents,which means that they can tolerate long periods of time without water and prefer lots of sunshine. Their thick and fleshy leaves are common for the succulent family since they allow them to retain water over time. These indoor hanging plants do best in rooms with lots of space where they're free to trail down without bumping into anything.

6. Chenille Plant (Acalypha hispida)

Chenille plants grow quickly and can reach great lengths if given proper care. In its native habitat, this plant can grow as tall as 15 feet! However, this plant only grows up to 6 feet when grown domestically. Pruning back these hanging plants promotes new growth and is ideal if you want to keep them long and healthy. The plant's fuzzy red flowers, which are actually a bunch of pistils clustered together, make a big splash and are great change of pace from the common all-green houseplant. Given their colorful nature, this plant is ideal for entertaining areas that need a pop of color.

7. Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)

The golden pothos sports an elegant look thanks to its variegated golden-yellow leaves. Give your pothos a moderate amount of light to bring out its colors. This is one of the best indoor hanging plants you can keep in your bedroom since they purify airborne toxins, which helps you breathe easier and get a better night's sleep. Take a look at our pothos plant care guide to see how to properly care for this plant.

8. English Ivy (Hedera helix)

English ivy is a common plant you'll normally see covering stone or brick walls on building exteriors. You can duplicate this same effect in your home to create a beautiful ivy wall. For a more contained look, you can let the leaves dangle loose from a hanging basket. These showy indoor hanging plants are best for places in your home where your guests can admire their elegant vines. English ivy is also best for rooms with lots of space since they grow very long.

9. Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum)

This gorgeous indoor hanging plant derives its name from its delicate look. It grows purple leaves underneath its light green foliage. This is the perfect plant to keep in the living room because of their charming, feathery fronds. Keep these in a humid and evenly lit spot in your home.

10. Pitcher Plant (Nepenthes)

Pitcher plants became carnivorous for survival since their native soil lacked proper nutrients. They prefer clean water and moist (but not soggy!) soil. This plant's tall and vibrantly colored "pitchers" attract their prey. Place these plants in the kitchen or living room to keep unwanted bugs out and have a serious conversation starter nearby your entertaining areas.

11. Ripple Peperomia (Peperomia Caperata)

These peperomia species have heart-shaped leaves that come in a variety of colors including green, red, gray and cream. You can find beautiful indentations on some varieties that accent their varied colors and patterns. The ripple peperomia's unique appearance makes these plants the perfect conversation starter, especially as hanging houseplants since guests can easily see their textured leaves.

12. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

These spindly plants cover a lot of horizontal and vertical space, so they're perfect for filling in those big empty spots in your home. The plant's bright and long leaves earned it many nicknames, including the "airplane plant" and the "ribbon plant." These plants are especially great for any pet owners since they are not toxic for your furry friends. Best of all, they're easy to care for!

13. Staghorn Fern (Platycerium)

It's hard to miss a staghorn fern! They stand out from other fern plants due to their large, horn-like leaves. Since these plants are epiphytes like Boston ferns, you can also mount these vertically on wood. Give your staghorn's roots some time to attach to the wood and hang it somewhere with lots of filtered sunlight and air circulation.

14. String of Nickels (Dischidia nummularia)

The string of nickels features coin-shaped leaves and gorgeous silver variegation. These trailing epiphytes grow well on wood, stone and in baskets. String of nickels plants are easy to care for despite their ornate appearance. All you need to remember is to water them when their soil is dry and place them in a spot with bright filtered light.

15. String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)

The string of pearls is a trendy plant with a distinctive look. Their plump round pearls are filled with water to help them survive long periods of drought. This plant's sprawling nature is perfect for homes with high ceilings or lots of empty vertical space that's in need of fresh decor. If you have a green thumb, you could get your string of pearls plant to bloom white flowers!

16. Trailing Jade (Peperomia rotundifolia)

Trailing jade plants are smaller greens that feature circular leaves and thin stems. You can find them naturally trailing around rocks and crevices in their native tropical habitat. This peperomia variety has small roots, so overwatering damages its root system. Water when the soil is dry to the touch to avoid drowning it. This plant is for you if you want a hanging houseplant that doesn't trail busy leaves on long vines.

How to Style Indoor Hanging Plants

Now that you have a better of idea of what types of plants of the best indoor hanging plants for your home, it's time to think about all of the different ways you can display them. An indoor urban "jungalow" is the perfect space for a dense collection of plants while a minimal home can benefit from a simpler look. If you want to stretch your DIY muscles, you can try making kokedama string garden for a unique way show off your greens around the house. Peruse through our styling inspiration below to see how you can hang up your plants.

There are so many indoor hanging plants available for you to display around your home! Pick up a vibrant plant or two so you can start hanging up your plants. Once you get home, imagine all of the different ways you can display your plants before you get to hanging. Take some ideas from our styling inspiration above and start creating your hanging plant haven!

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16 Indoor Hanging Plants to Decorate Your Home | ProFlowers

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There are so many ways to create homes for our plants! We can display them on space-saving ladder plant stands, stick them in tiny terrarium homes or just plop them on top of a side table.

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Most of us know beautiful coleus plants as gorgeous additions to border plantings in gardens or bright pops of color in containers, but did you know that actually make great indoor plants as well? This article will tell you all you need to know about coleus plant care indoors, so you can brighten your indoor space with their stunning foliage.

Coleus plant care indoors: Provide bright indirect sunlight, temperatures of 65-75°F, and moderate to high humidity levels. Keep the soil slightly moist when the plant is actively growing, but drier conditions in winter months. Fertilize lightly with a high nitrogen fertilizer every two weeks, and pinch back the stems to create a fuller, bushy plant.

Coleus is an easy to grow plant and will thrive indoors if cared for properly. The following information covers all of the different aspects of caring for this beautiful houseplant.

Coleus Plant Overview

Also known as Painted Nettle, coleus ( Solenostemon scutellarioides) is a member of the mint family and is native to Southeast Asia. Surprising to most people, it is technically an evergreen perennial that is primarily grown as an annual because of its sensitivity to frost.

Because of their predisposition for warm climates, they make great indoor houseplants.

Coleus Plant Indoor Care Summary

Characteristics Of Coleus Plants

Grows from 6-inches to 3 ½ feet in height depending on the variety.

Plants grow 1 to 3-feet wide.

Leaves range from one to six inches long.

It can grow upright or trailing, depending on the variety chosen.

Guide To Coleus Plant Care Indoors

Coleus have gained their popularity as beautiful garden and landscape plants, but they are grown as annuals in all growing zones except USDA hardiness zone 11 because they are incredibly intolerant of frost and cold temperatures. Because of this, they are gaining popularity as indoor-grown container plants.

When growing plants in your home, provide the following growing conditions to promote strong, healthy plants.

Light Requirements

When grown indoors coleus prefers bright, indirect light. It's best if they can live on a windowsill that gets light in the morning or early hours of the day and has shade during the most intense sun exposure in the late afternoon.

Some direct sun is okay, except intense summer sun which will scorch the leaves or cause the bright colors to fade. Too little light dulls leaf colors and may cause leaves to drop.

You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.

Coleus Plant Temperature Range

Tropical houseplants do well indoors because they prefer the same temperature range as we humans do. For best growth keep your plants in a room where temperatures are between 65°F-75ºF (24C°-27ºC) or even up to 85ºF, avoiding any sudden drops in temperature.

Keep your plants in a spot where they are not exposed to drafts coming from leaky windows, opening/closing doors, or register vents blowing heat in the winter and cool air in the summertime.

Humidity

Coleus prefer environments with medium to high humidity levels. For most homeowners, low indoor humidity makes coleus plant care indoors a little more challenging than outdoor care. You'll need to create a pocket of moist air for your coleus plants to really help them thrive.

If your plants begin to show brown tips or crispy edges, signs your air is too dry, you can increase the humidity level by grouping plants together, or setting your plant in a tray containing pebbles and water.

Don't mist the leaves like you would with other tropical plants to avoid creating water spots on the velvety foliage.
Read this article for my best tips for increasing humidity for your houseplants.
Soil For Coleus Plant Care Indoors

Coleus plants prefer a soil that drains quickly and provides good aeration to the roots. Due to this most "all-purpose" commercial potting soils are suitable. Avoid anything specifically formulated for a given plant type such as acid-loving plants or succulents.

Commercial potting soils are actually a "soilless" mix of peat moss, coconut coir, pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite. Avoid using straight coconut coir or sphagnum peat moss in your containers; they retain too much water. To improve the drainage rate of the potting soil you can add extra perlite.

Read my complete guide to choosing soil for your houseplants. This covers everything you need to ensure your plants are always in the best soil to help them thrive.

Watering

During the active growing season in the spring and summer keep the potting soil slightly moist, although not soggy, at all times. Coleus plants do best if the soil isn't dry or overly wet.

During the winter when growth is slower, scale back slightly on watering. Allow the top ½ inch or so of potting soil to dry out completely before you give your plants a drink.

Water with tepid water and avoid getting water on the velvety leaves. Hard water will leave water spots that are nearly impossible to remove.

If you live in an urban or suburban area with treated water it is best the water is allowed to sit for a couple of days before using it to allow the chlorine to dissipate. This helps to lower the risk of chlorine toxicity in your plants.

Read my article about how to water your houseplants to prevent over- and under-watering.

Fertilizer

Fertilize every 1 to 2 weeks during the active growing season at about half the strength recommended on the fertilizer label. Do not fertilize when the plant isn't actively growing during the colder winter months.

To promote good foliage growth and minimize flowering you will want to purchase a quality fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen and lower in phosphorus.

Avoid a balanced fertilizer that has an equal ratio of N-P-K such as a common 10-10-10 formulation. Look for a water-soluble or liquid all-purpose plant food and mix it at half the strength of the recommended dosage on the label or even slightly more diluted.

Flowering

Coleus will flower in the summer with racemes of tiny white or bluish flowers if given the correct care, but unfortunately, you should prevent flowering if you want to keep your plants around.

If your plants do flower make sure to pinch the flower buds off immediately. Flowering triggers your plant into thinking it needs to go to seed. Once it goes to seed, it dies. So, keep pinching off the flower buds as they form to extend the life of your plant.

As a side note, plants that have been propagated from stem cuttings typically won't flower as often, if they do at all.

Pruning

Pinch back the stems of your coleus to keep the plant from getting too leggy. This triggers growth from growing points at the nodes on the stem, creating a fuller, bushier plant.

You can pinch the stems back at any time but it's best to do it when the plant is actively growing during the warmer months. When you pinch them, make sure to cut the stem cleanly immediately after a leaf node using either your fingernails or a sharp pair of clean scissors.

Propagation

In spring or early summer remove a 3 to 4-inch long stem tip cutting that has at least 3 leaves attached to the end piece. Cut just below a leaf node where a leaf is attached to the stem. You can then place the cutting in a jar or glass with clean water until roots form or immediately put it in a small container with moist potting soil.

Re-Potting

Over time your coleus may outgrow the container you have it growing in, and need to be moved to a bigger one. A plant that is root-bound in a container will have slower growth or the growth may be completely halted.

If you don't want your plant to get any larger it's acceptable to keep it in the current pot, but you can remove it and add new potting soil every year or so.

If you want it to grow more it's best to repot it, putting it in a container that is 1 to 2-inches wider in diameter and about the same increase in container height. When repotting gently tease the roots with your fingers to loosen them up and then add fresh potting mix.
Springtime is the best time to repot plants as they begin actively growing after the cooler winter months, and can bounce back from the shock of repotting quicker.
An important note - when filling containers with growing media do not create a "drainage layer" in the bottom of the pot. For a long time, this was a highly recommended practice, taught to new gardeners. It's been proven though that this practice is more detrimental than helpful.

As water moves down through the soil profile via gravity, it stops when it encounters this drainage layer created by rocks or small stones. Before the water percolates into the layer, the entire potting soil must fill with water rendering the layer problematic instead of beneficial.

Diseases And Pests

Coleus plant care indoors is thankfully not troubled too much with disease and pest problems, although they do exist, unfortunately. One of the biggest culprits of both is overwatering so watering plants only when they need it will help prevent problems.

Monitor your plants frequently to catch problems early and treat them before damage is extensive.

Diseases

Like most other potted plants, coleus is susceptible to root rot if overwatered. Plants will also occasionally have problems with downy mildew or powdery mildew.

Root Rot

The most commonly seen problem with coleus is root rot, caused by overwatering, especially in the winter months. The roots then die back due to lack of oxygen or the overgrowth of a soil fungus. Soggy soils encourage the growth and multiplication of Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium fungi which spreads into the roots, infecting plants.

Healthy roots begin to turn brown and mushy as they perish, unable to take in nutrients needed for growth. As root rot progresses leaves turn yellow, wilt, or droop and then become mushy as well. Once symptoms are visible in the leaves the problem may be past the point of rectifying, endangering the entire plant.

If caught soon enough you can repot the plant, to try to save it. Remove as much of the infected soil as possible adding in fresh, clean potting soil. If root rot has spread significantly, dissect the plant, keeping only the healthy portions. If the whole base is affected, take stem cuttings from healthy foliage to propagate a new plant.

Read my article on how to identify, fix and prevent root rot for more info.

Downy Mildew

This fungal disease occurs on the top of the coleus leaves in humid weather conditions. When infected, foliar symptoms include chlorosis, angular lesions, distortion (leaf curling), and leaf drop. Lower leaves are affected first and may develop as a downy gray to purplish growth on leaf undersides.

Remove any infected or diseased plant tissue using sterilized scissors or a razor blade. Dispose of tissue in the trash. Consider treating with an appropriate fungicide. If the disease is severe it may be best to dispose of the entire plant.

To prevent downy mildew, water at the soil level to prevent spores from splashing up onto foliage or neighboring plants.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew presents as a white powdery film on the leaves and stems of your plants. It looks similar in nature to a dusting of flour. Over time it may darken in appearance to a grey color and may spread down to the soil. Powdery mildew impairs photosynthesis since it covers the leaves. This causes a stunting of the plant's growth and can kill the plant if left untreated.

Remove any infected or diseased plant tissue using sterilized scissors or a razor blade. Dispose of tissue in the trash.

It is typically recommended that you spray infected plants with bicarbonate solution or a sulfur-based fungicide according to the label directions but this should be avoided with the coleus' velvety leaves.

Insect Pests

Insect problems are going to be your biggest challenge with coleus plant care indoors, mainly if you have neighboring houseplants with aphids, spider mites, or mealybugs.

Aphids

Aphids are one of the most common insects affecting indoor plants. These tiny, pear-shaped insects attach themselves to the plant, sucking sap from the plant tissues, and then secreting "honeydew". Symptoms appear as distorted foliage and leaf drop.

Remove aphids by wiping the plants with a clean, soft cloth or spraying the plants with a mild solution of water containing a few drops of dish soap.

Spider mites

These tiny sucking pests are found on the undersides of leaves, wreaking havoc on indoor houseplants. Spider mites feed on the fluids found inside the leaves of coleus, piercing the waxy coating to access the internal fluids.

One of the biggest challenges with spider mites is their prolific nature; oftentimes a heavy infestation will occur, unnoticed, before plants begin to show physical symptoms of damage.

With an infestation of spider mites, leaves may be stippled with discoloration or turning yellow overall. Plants may also exhibit a fine, spider-like webbing between the leaves or at the base of the plant.
Read my article about getting rid of spider mites to deal with these suckers.
Mealybugs

These pink, soft-bodied insects are covered with a white, waxy, almost cottony-like material. The cottony fluff protects them from moisture loss and excess heat. Mealybugs are usually found in colonies in somewhat protected areas of the coleus such as where the leaves attach to the stems.

Symptoms show as stunted or deformed leaf growth, especially on new foliage as mealybugs inject a toxin into leaves when they feed on the plant's fluid. They also excrete honeydew as they feed, encouraging the growth of sooty mold

Toxicity

This is the one drawback to coleus plants: they are dangerous to pets and can trigger mild skin reactions in some people. The essential oils found in the plant's foliage are toxic to dogs, cats, and other animals. For people with skin sensitivities, they can also cause contact dermatitis or other irritations.

If you do have pets keep your coleus out of their reach if possible. If you're looking for alternate pet-safe houseplants, take a look at some of my favorites in this article.

Varieties

Boundless varieties of coleus, literally hundreds of different ones, are available. Foliage colors include red, maroon, brown, cream, yellow, orange and green in an array of dramatic combinations and designs. Leaf edges may be scalloped or ruffled and have a contrasting color.

Some of the most popular varieties include:

Kong Series are some of the best to grow indoors as they prefer filtered shade; large leaves grow up to 6-inches wide and have dramatic markings.

Wizard Series grow 12 to 14-inches tall and have a branching stature.

Superfine Rainbow Series have large, vibrant multicolored leaves, and grow bushy up to 15-inches tall.

Giant Exhibition Series grow up to 20-inches tall with large (6 to 7-inch long) leaves.

Premium Sun Series are vigorous, mounding, and well-branched, making them great for small spaces and garden borders.

Fairway Series are super showy and extra dwarf, growing only 8 to 10-inches tall.

Problems With Coleus Plant Care Indoors

Why are my coleus leaves curling?

Curling leaves is a common issue with coleus plant care indoors more than outdoor care. Common causes are downy mildew or other diseases. Low humidity, underwatering and temperatures stress can also cause leaf curling.

Curling leaves is a sign that something is not quite right with your plant and you should look closely for any problems. Go through the care summary at the top of this article and check you are meeting all of the basic care needs for your coleus.

Why is my coleus drooping?

Your coleus may be drooping because of improper watering. Leaves will droop if plants are underwatered and they are drought-stressed, or if the plant was over-watered and is experiencing root rot.

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Coleus Plant Care Indoors: How To Grow Coleus Houseplants - Smart Garden Guide

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Most of us know beautiful coleus plants as gorgeous additions to border plantings in gardens or bright pops of color in containers, but did you know that actually make great indoor plants as well? This article will tell you all you need to know about coleus plant care indoors, so you can brighten your indoor space with their stunning foliage.

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Indoor plants are more than just a little pot of greenery.

Nurturing these wonderous lifeforms that first sprung up in rainforests and deserts can bring us plenty of delight.

But that's just the start - here are some other interesting things about indoor plants you should know.

1. They can suck up toxic chemicals so we don't

NASA found a number of indoor plants remove nasties from the air, including known carcinogens.

That's not the only way they help us - studies of hospitals and offices show the presence of plants can actually reduce blood pressure and improve productivity.

Looking through the list of plants named as air cleaners, you'll be pleased popular plants make the list.

2. Plants do not play well with pets

While they can be good for us, they are toxic for our furry friends.

"Each plant has the ability to poison a number of different systems in the body," says veterinarian and vet clinic director Dr David Neck.

Check out our list of problematic plants and how they can affect your cat or dog.

3. They have fascinating family trees!

"Plant whisperer" Jason Chongue deals with struggling plants by researching where the variety originates. Then he tries to replicate those conditions.

Aspidistra hail from Asia, peace lilies are native to Central and South American rainforests, while the popular snake plant is from West Africa.

Read about the origins of some popular, easy-to-grow indoor plants.

4. Australia has given the world some beauties

Many beautiful and exotic plants are homegrown.

Some, like the kentia palm, umbrella tree and recognisable succulents, are Aussie natives. See our list of 15 native plants that thrive indoors.

5.Indoor plants can teach us about our homes' microclimates

It's tempting to think of areas as either indoors or outdoors, but there's more to spaces than that.

Microclimates - the warmth, humidity and airflow in various nooks and crannies of your home - can mean the difference between a thriving plant and potted misery.

Here's a checklist to find a plant's perfect spot.

6. Plants are surprisingly good communicators

If your plant's looking sad, chances are there's a reason.

Not sure how to read the signs just yet? Here are a few common symptoms and what they may mean.

7. Indoor plants can produce food

Indoor plants are simply outdoor plants that you bring inside and keep alive.

You may also be surprised to read our list of edible things that can grow in small spaces (and even inside depending on where you live) includes herbs, chillies, tomatoes, strawberries and veggies.

8. Indoor plants appreciate a spring (and autumn) clean

Plants can't 'breathe' if the tiny holes in their leaves get blocked by dust, so it helps to wipe them with a wet cloth every so often.

This doesn't apply tohairy-leaved plants, which generally hate water sitting on them.

Here's a list of things to do when giving your plants a health check.

9. A little styling can help them look their best

It's not enough to just keep them alive - indoor plants really come into their own when they're displayed just right.

Plant stylist Ryan Klewer shared with us his five tips for how to really make them shine in your home, including finding the right pot and how to group different varieties.

10. There are plenty of ways to collect cheap indoor plants

Horticulturalist Jane Rose Loyd has collected hundreds of plants over the past six years and revealed where we can go to pick up some Instagram-worthy varieties for cheap.

Hint: Think twice about driving past a school fete!

11. You can grow plants for free

With some basic materials and know-how, you can learn how to propagate plants.

With as little as a leaf from one plant, you can grow another.

12. There's no such thing as having too many indoor plants

Jorja Thomson lives in a share house with more than 1,000 plants and shows no signs of losing interest.

The landscape design student, who started with a few basic plants, says the hundreds of plants haven't taken over her life.

"In winter I check on my plants once a week, and in summer I check on them four to five times a week. It only takes an extra half hour or 40 minutes [to check them all] compared to if I had much fewer plants," she says.

13. Sharing the care of plants can be tricky

Getting the watering routine right is key to happy soil-bound housemates.

One of the most reliable ways to check if a plant has already been watered is also extremely low-tech. You simply wiggle a finger into the pot to the first knuckle and, if it comes out with damp potting mix attached, the plant has enough water. If it's dry, it's OK to water.

Checking first will mean fewer plant deaths from (accidental) overwatering.

14. Most are pretty low maintenance

Going away for holidays doesn't have to mean inconveniencing a friend or letting your plants wilt while you're away.

Here are some quick tips to ensure your plant friends survive your holiday and are there to greet you on your return.

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14 things indoor plant owners should know - ABC Everyday

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Indoor plants are more than just a little pot of greenery. Nurturing these wonderous lifeforms that first sprung up in rainforests and deserts can bring us plenty of delight. But that's just the start - here are some other interesting things about indoor plants you should know.

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A houseplant is a plant that is grown indoors in places such as residences and offices. Houseplants are commonly grown for decorative purposes, but studies have also shown them to have positive psychological effects. Houseplants also help with indoor air purification. Plants used in this fashion are most commonly, though not always, tropical or semi-tropical epiphytes, succulents or cacti.

Houseplants need the correct moisture, light levels, soil mixture, temperature, and humidity. As well, houseplants need the proper fertilizer and correct-sized pots.

Plant requirements

Main page: Houseplant care

Major factors that should be considered when caring for houseplants are moisture, light, soil mixture, temperature, humidity, fertilizers, potting, and pest control. The following includes some general guidelines for houseplant care. For specific houseplant needs, the tags that sometimes come with plants are notoriously unhelpful and generic. Specific care information may be found widely online and in books.

Both under-watering and over-watering can be detrimental to a houseplant; the soil needs to be moist but not flooded.

Different plants require different amounts of light, for different durations. Photoperiodism is a consideration, since some plants such as Poinsettia and Schlumbergera are influenced by either decreasing or increasing daylight hours.

It is possible to supplement window light with artificial lighting of suitable wavelengths.

Houseplants are generally grown in specialized soils called potting compost or potting soil, not in local natural soil. A good potting compost mixture includes soil conditioners to provide the plant with nutrients, support, adequate drainage, and proper aeration. Most potting composts contain a combination of peat and vermiculite or perlite. Concern over environmental damage to peat bogs, however, is leading to the replacement of peat by coir ( coconut fibre), which is a sustainable resource. Sterilised soil can also be used.

Temperature

Most houseplants are tropical evergreen species that adapted to survive in a tropical climate which ranges from 15 °C to 25 °C (60 °F to 80 °F) year-round. This is similar to the temperature in most homes.

Humidity is slightly more difficult to control than temperature. However most species of houseplant will tolerate low humidity environments if it's watered regularly. Homes are often around 20% to 60% relative humidity. Such a range is acceptable, although most species thrive near 80% relative humidity. To increase humidity one may mist plants with distilled water or use a humidifier.

Fertilizers

Plants require soil minerals, mainly nitrate, phosphate, and potassium. Nitrogen is essential for green, leafy growth. Phosphorus is essential for flowering or fruiting plants. Potassium is essential for strong roots and increased nutrient uptake. Minor and trace elements, such as calcium, magnesium and iron, may also be necessary.

Pot types and sizes

Proper pot size is an important factor to consider. A pot that is too large will cause root disease because of the excess moisture retained in the soil, while a pot that is too small will restrict a plant's growth. Generally, a plant can stay in the same pot for two or so years. Pots come in a variety of types as well, but usually can be broken down into two groups: porous and non-porous. Porous pots are usually clay and are highly recommended because they provide better aeration as air passes laterally through the sides of the pot. Non-porous pots such as glazed or plastic pots tend to hold moisture longer and restrict airflow. Another needed feature is drainage holes. Usually pots come with holes in the bottom to allow excess water to flow out of the soil which helps to prevent root rot. If a pot does not have drainage holes, it is best to double pot that plant so the inner pot can be lifted out and the excess water accumulated in the bottom of the outer pot can be removed. Soak old pots thoroughly in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water to kill any bacteria that may remain.

Effect on indoor air pollution

Indoor plants reduce components of indoor air pollution, particularly volatile organic compounds (VOC) such as benzene, toluene, and xylene. The compounds are removed primarily by soil microorganisms. Plants can also remove Carbon dioxide, which is correlated with lower work performance, from indoor areas. The effect has been investigated by NASA for use in spacecraft. Plants also appear to reduce airborne microbes and increase humidity.

Alternative growing methods

Hydroponics

Aside from traditional soil mixtures, media such as expanded clay may be employed in hydroponics, in which the plant is grown in a water and nutrient solution. This technique has a number of benefits, including an odorless, reusable, and more hygienic media. Any habitat for soil-bound pests is also eliminated, and the plant's water supply is less variable. However, some plants do not grow well with this technique, and media is often difficult to find in some parts of the world, such as North America, where hydroponics and specifically hydroculture is not as well-known or widespread.

Subirrigation

Subirrigation offers another alternative to top-watering techniques. In this approach the plant is watered from the bottom of the pot. Water is transferred up into the potting media (be it soil or others) by capillary action. Advantages of this technique include controlled amounts of water, resulting in lower chances of overwatering if done correctly, no need to drain plants after watering unlike traditional top-water methods, and less compaction of the media due to the pressure put on the media from top-watering.

Well known houseplants

Images for kids

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A houseplant is a plant that is grown indoors in places such as residences and offices. Houseplants are commonly grown for decorative purposes, but studies have also shown them to have positive psychological effects. Houseplants also help with indoor air purification. Plants used in this fashion are most commonly, though not always, tropical or semi-tropical epiphytes, succulents or cacti.

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Ball Cactus Care

Native to central South America, they are easy to care for, making them excellent beginner cacti. If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular ball cactus without too much trouble. It's important to remember that the ball cactus doesn't like direct sunlight and is accustomed to more water than many other cacti species. Additionally, the cactus mustn't be exposed to prolonged dampness or sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water, and take care to ensure its soil is very well-draining.

While they prefer a warm and dry climate, they are more adaptable than some of their cacti cousins, able to withstand temperatures that hover around freezing as long as they're kept dry.

To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back on watering cadence. Lastly, make sure to fertilize during the growing season for the best results.

Ball cacti like lots of light-just not too much of it. Don't let that confuse you, though-it's actually simpler than it seems. Essentially they can take direct sunlight in the softer hours of the mornings and afternoons but should be kept in partial shade throughout the hottest hours of the day. If your yard or garden can't account for both, consider planting your cactus in a pot that you can move into a shadier spot during high noon. If you're planting your cactus indoors and are sitting it at a window sill for sunlight, be sure to rotate it periodically to ensure even (not skewed or crooked) growth.

Like many cacti, the ball cactus prefers a mix of airy, dry soil. Drainage is especially important as well, so if you're opting for a store-bought blend (cacti or succulent-specific mix is your best bet), consider adding coarse sand, perlite, or pumice to the mixture to help aerate the soil. Overall, the soil's pH level isn't important to the ball cactus. However, it thrives best in a slightly acidic mixture with a pH between 6.1 and 6.5.

Ball cacti are drought tolerant but they do like water during their growing season. Provide regular water during the spring and summer months, but only when the soil is dry to the touch, thoroughly soaking the soil through when you do water. In the winter the cactus will go dormant and need very little water, so you can cease complete cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out. If planted in a container, make sure there are several holes in the bottom of the pot to aid in drainage.

Temperature and Humidity

True to their nature, ball cacti prefer warm, desert-like conditions. That being said, they can survive in below-freezing temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though it's not recommended that they're kept that cold for very long at all.

Dry heat is the key to keeping any cactus, and ball cacti will not do well if exposed to too much moisture-either from watering or in the form of humidity. Therefore, it is unnecessary to spritz them or increase the humidity in their environment.

Fertilizer

Though not necessary, the ball cactus will respond well to fertilizer. During the growing season fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix and suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.

Types of Ball Cactus

Parodia magnifica is one of many types of ball cacti. Here are a few more popular types:

'Golden ball': This is one of the larger ball-type cacti that can grow to about 6 feet tall when fully mature.

'Powder puff': This round gem produces fine hairs on its spines plus the possibility of yellow or pink flowers in the spring, and is a shorter ball that grows wider as it matures.

'Red Tom Thumb': Its dark green globe grows wider (to 5 feet) rather than taller (to 3 feet) and may flower in the spring and summer with orange or red blossoms.

Propagating Ball Cactus

Ball cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. Do not repot in the winter because the cold temperatures, even indoors, can shock the roots. To propagate, follow these steps:

1. Carefully remove an offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days.

2. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface.

3. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a cactus or succulent soil mixture and keep it in a warm place until new roots emerge.

4. Once the cactus is established, repot it into a regular-sized container.

Potting and Repotting Ball Cactus

Repot your ball cactus as needed, preferably during the warm season. Always place the plant in a pot with a drainage hole. Make sure the soil is very dry and crumbly before repotting, then gently remove the cactus and surrounding soil from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.

Common Pests

Luckily, this plant won't typically fall to disease, but it can be a favorite for sucking pests like whiteflies, mealybugs, and aphids. Mealybugs may appear any time of the year. Aphids and whiteflies will crawl on the plant in the spring and summer. To eliminate both, spray the cactus with a mix of equal parts rubbing alcohol and water.

Common Problems With Ball Cactus

The ball cactus is quite a forgiving plant. But it can face a couple of challenges in its environment.

Cactus Going Soft

If the entire body of your cactus is going soft, that could mean your plant is experiencing root rot from overwatering or sitting in poorly draining soil. It's best to repot the cactus in fresh medium and cut away damaged roots if possible.

Nicks in the Flesh

If you spot openings in the plant's flesh, bacteria and fungus could be entering the plant through those small wounds. If the spot around the wound has become mushy or is oozing liquid, use a sterilized cutting tool to dig out that part of the flesh and let the area dry out. Make sure that no moisture touches the area so that the spot can heal and stay completely dry.

How long does it take before a cactus blooms?

It could take about three years for a cactus to begin producing flowers. Sometimes you can be surprised by a huge bloom on top of the cactus that seems larger than the plant's body.

Is the ball cactus an endangered species?

According to The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, Parodia magnifica is still listed as endangered. However, that may mean that growers are pushing to increase the numbers of this cactus. The good news: You can still find and buy this cactus without a problem.

Is ball cactus a cold-hardy plant?

Though as mentioned it can withstand some freezing weather, ball cactus is not a cold-hardy plant like the Eastern prickly pear which can thrive in zone 7, for example. The ball cactus should only be planted in the ground in USDA zones 9 through 12.

Is Parodia magnifica the same as Notocactus magnificus and Eriocactus magnificus?

Yes, all three names refer to Parodia magnifica. The ball cactus was once referred to as other scientific names but the plant's botanical nomenclature shifted.

Will the ball cactus stay perfectly round as it ages?

This cactus can actually turn a bit oval, barrel-shaped, or tubular as it gets older. It depends on the plant.

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Learn How to Grow and Care for Ball Cactus

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Native to central South America, they are easy to care for, making them excellent beginner cacti. If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular ball cactus without too much trouble. It's important to remember that the ball cactus doesn't like direct sunlight and is accustomed to more water than many other cacti species.

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Watermelon Peperomia Care

Overall watermelon peperomia are easy to care for and grow as houseplants, especially if you are good at staying on top of watering your plants. If you have a habit of forgetting to water your plants for weeks at a time, this plant might not be for you as peperomia are moisture-loving plants. While they do produce flower spikes in the spring and summer, the blooms are insignificant and some growers choose to cut the blooms off so that the plant can focus its energy on producing foliage instead.

Choose a location for your watermelon peperomia that receives bright to medium indirect light. They should not be exposed to prolonged periods of direct sunlight as their leaves are prone to burning. While they can survive in lower light conditions, their leaves will be smaller and the growth will be more leggy.

These peperomia do well in most standard potting mixes as long as they are well-draining, but can also hold some moisture. Avoid soil that is formulated for plants that prefer a dryer soil like cacti and succulents as it won't absorb enough water to sustain the plant. A 1:1 mixture of peat moss and perlite will also work for watermelon peperomia.

Allow the top couple inches of soil to dry out between watering and then water thoroughly. Watermelon peperomia are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering and should not be allowed to dry out or be left sitting in water for an extended period of time.

Temperature and Humidity

Watermelon peperomia do well in warm, slightly humid conditions. That being said, typical household temperatures and humidity levels are adequate for these tropical plants. Just ensure that your peperomia is kept away from vents or drafty windows that could dry out the air around the plant.

Fertilizer

These peperomia can benefit from regular fertilization during the growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks during the spring and summer.

Propagating Watermelon Peperomia

Watermelon peperomia are delightfully easy to propagate and are sometimes even affectionately referred to as "friendship plants" due to how easy it is to share your plant with a friend. Propagating should ideally be done during the growing season, either in the spring or summer. Watermelon peperomia can be propagated in two main ways: by division and by leaf cuttings.

A happy and healthy watermelon peperomia will begin to send up offshoots/pups that can be divided and planted in their own pots. To propagate by division, follow these steps:

1. First, remove the entire plant from the potting container so that you can examine the roots and carefully separate the offshoots.

2. Identify the offshoots that you want to separate from the plant (it is best to leave offshoots that are smaller than 1 inch in the original pot) and gently tease the roots from the main plant.

3. Plant the newly separated offshoot in its own pot and water the soil thoroughly.

4. Place it in a location that receives medium to bright indirect light and keep the soil consistently moist for the first 1-2 weeks after separation.

5. After a couple of weeks you can resume a regular watering schedule.

Unlike leaf/stem propagating with other plants, watermelon peperomia do not branch at the location where the stem is cut, so once you cut a leaf off you are sacrificing that stem permanently. Keep this in mind before getting started. Interestingly, there are two ways to propagate with a single leaf cutting. To propagate by leaf cuttings, follow these steps:

1. Identify the leaves that you want to use and cut the stem so that the separated leaf has 2-3 inches of stem remaining.

2. Take the separated leaf, and cut the leaf in half - separating the "top" and the "bottom" of the leaf. You will be left with two halves, one that has the stem still attached.

3. Prepare a container with regular potting soil and pre-moisten the soil before planting.

4. Take the top half of the leaf cutting and place it in the soil with the cut edge buried and the top half above the soil.

5. Then, take the bottom half of the cutting and plant the stem in the soil, with the remainder of the leaf above the soil.

6. Then, place your freshly potted cuttings in a location that receives medium to bright indirect light and keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged.

7. After 1-2 months you should notice new growth sprouting from the leaves/stems of the cuttings. Allow the new plants to establish for a couple of months before transplanting them to their own containers.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

These plants are susceptible to a number of common houseplant pests and diseases. Fungus gnats and sap-sucking pests such as mealybugs, scale, and aphids can all be problems for watermelon peperomia. These peperomia are also sensitive to overwatering and can develop root rot quickly if their watering is mismanaged.

Common Problems With Watermelon Peperomia

Problems with watermelon peperomia are usually a result of improper watering or pest damage. Otherwise, watermelon peperomia are relatively problem-free.

Curling Leaves

Curling leaves are usually an indication that your plant is drying out too much, or that the leaves are getting too much direct sunlight.

Drooping Leaves

Drooping leaves can indicate that your plant is thirsty and needs some water. Usually this is quickly fixed with a good watering.

Leaves Turning Brown

There are several reasons that your peperomia's leaves may be turning brown including new environmental stress or changes, pest damage, lack of humidity, overwatering (if they are brown and mushy). Evaluate your plant's environment and care to determine which is applicable to you.

Leaves Turning Yellow

The top cause of yellowing leaves on a watermelon peperomia is overwatering. Ensure that you are allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering and that you have proper drainage to avoid this. Pests can also result in yellowing leaves.

Should I mist my watermelon peperomia?

If you are looking to increase the humidity around your plant, a more effective method would be to place a humidifier nearby or put your plant on top of a pebble tray filled with water.

Why are the leaves on my watermelon peperomia small with long stems?

A happy watermelon peperomia is characterized by large leaves that give it a bushy appearance. A lack of light can result in leggy growth, which is characterized by long stems (that sometimes fall over) and small, lackluster leaves. Move your peperomia to a brighter spot to encourage strong, healthy growth.

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Overall watermelon peperomia are easy to care for and grow as houseplants, especially if you are good at staying on top of watering your plants. If you have a habit of forgetting to water your plants for weeks at a time, this plant might not be for you as peperomia are moisture-loving plants.

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Planten kjennetegnes ved sine store, blanke, ovale og tykke blader. Har den en ståltråd å klatre rundt, kan den føres til å vokse i ulike retninger og fasonger, noe som gir et dekorativt uttrykk , når du skal pynte opp hjemme.

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Hoya Carnosa - Slik lykkes du med Porselensplante - Floriss

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Planten kjennetegnes ved sine store, blanke, ovale og tykke blader. Har den en ståltråd å klatre rundt, kan den føres til å vokse i ulike retninger og fasonger, noe som gir et dekorativt uttrykk , når du skal pynte opp hjemme.

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Maranta is the type-genus of Marantaceae, and is named in honor of Bartolomeo Maranta, an Italian physician and botanist of the 16th century who organized his knowledge of botanical pharmacology by nomenclature, species identification and medicinal properties.

' Prayer plant' is a colloquial term that refers to members of genus Maranta, to which genus Calathea is closely-related. In reality, both are considered to be 'prayer plants.' The name comes from the tendency of plants in this family to droop, or 'pray' at night. Some of the most popular prayer plants in cultivation are Maranta leuconeura or M. leuconeura 'Tricolor.' Many species of Maranta produce rosmarinic acid, one of the active components of rosemary that give it the characteristic rosemary scent.

Prayer Plant Care

Sunlight

Thrives in medium to bright indirect light. Not suited for intense, direct sun.

Water

Water every 1-2 weeks, allowing the soil to dry out half way down between waterings. Expect to water more often in brighter light and less often in lower light.

Marantas can be sensitive to hard tap water. Try using filtered water or leaving water out overnight before using.

Humidity

Normal room humidity is fine, but it prefers more humidity if possible.

Temperature

65°F-85°F (18°C-30°C). It's best not to let it go below 60°F (15°C).

Common Issues with Prayer Plants

SYMPTOM: Curling leaves with brown tips
CAUSE: Not enough humidity

SYMPTOM: Washed out coloring or brown blotches on leaves
CAUSE: Too much direct sun

SYMPTOM: Yellowing leaves, rotting stems
CAUSE: Overwatered

Are Prayer Plants Toxic?

This plant is pet-friendly and is not toxic to cats or dogs. Best practice is always to keep houseplants out of reach of small children and pets.

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How to Care for Prayer Plants (Maranta) | The Sill

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Maranta is the type-genus of Marantaceae, and is named in honor of Bartolomeo Maranta, an Italian physician and botanist of the 16th century who organized his knowledge of botanical pharmacology by nomenclature, species identification and medicinal properties. ' Prayer plant' is a colloquial term that refers to members of genus Maranta, to which genus Calathea is closely-related.

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Schefflera, eller paraplyplante, er en enkel plante å lykkes med. Den kan klare seg i lange perioder uten stell og tilsyn. Med andre ord, en perfekt plante for den glemske.

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There are six highly popular succulent types that are low maintenance and easy to propagate.

Bright light and infrequent watering can help succulents thrive.

Knowing the growing season of your succulent will let you know when to fertilize.

Succulents may arguably be the most popular type of plant, thanks to their easy-to-care-for reputation. These hardy plants are ideal for black thumbs and plant experts alike and make for great gifts since their propagation process is quite simple.

Below, Angelo Randaci, master gardener and horticulture expert at Earth's Ally, shares his best care tips for succulents.

There are hundreds of succulent varieties, but these 10 are some of the most popular for both indoor and outdoor display. While most succulents share similar water, light, and soil patterns, each succulent can have a unique requirement or care routine so they can last for years.

1. Hens and chicks

Light level: Full sun to partial shade

Pet-friendly: Yes

Watering frequency: Allow soil to dry out completely before watering thoroughly

Growing season: Late spring to late fall

Common problems: Crown rot/fungus if left in wet soil

Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) are one of the most famous succulents and are easily recognizable due to their rosette patterns and bright coloring. Under the right conditions, many can produce star-shaped flowers in pink, red, or yellow, says Randaci.

To propagate this plant, Randaci recommends removing an offset (the baby chick of the mother hen plant) from the main stem, called the stolon, as soon as you see roots on the new offset. Take this new cutting and plant it into the same potting mix you used for the mother plant.

2. Jade plant

The jade plant (Crassula ovata) is one of the most common houseplants. This succulent has oval-shaped leaves and grows on thick, woody stems, resembling a mini tree. It is also properly named for its deep green color.

To propagate your jade plant, Randaci instructs removing a leaf or a stem cutting from a healthy plant.

"Allow your leaf or stem cutting to sit for a few days before planting, letting a callus form at the cut," says Randaci. "For a leaf, lay it horizontally on top of your propagation media. For a stem cutting, place it upright. Place in a warm place in bright indirect sunlight and do not water until roots have formed."

3. Panda plant

Panda plants (Kalanchoe tomentosa) get their adorable name from adorable foliage - soft and fuzzy green-grey leaves with brown and rounded edges. This velvety succulent is a favorite for its pet-friendliness and unique look.

To propagate a panda plant, Randaci recommends removing a leaf or a stem cutting, letting it dry for a couple days before rooting. Next, lay the leaf or cutting horizontally on top of succulent mix or perlite. Once it has rooted, place it upright in the mix.

4. Donkey's tail

The donkey's tail or burro's tail (Sedum morganianum) succulent is well-known for its trailing stems and thick, fleshy leaves that appear woven. Donkey's tail might also have a chalky appearance and can produce pink and red flowers. Because of its thick leaves, this succulent typically requires more frequent watering than others.

"To propagate this plant, take a healthy leaf or stem cutting," says Randaci. "Place them in a slightly moist succulent mix and wait for them to root."

5. Flaming Katy

Flaming Katy - also known as florist kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) - appears as a bouquet of vibrant flowers, but it's actually a succulent with glossy foliage and flowers that bloom in late autumn to early winter. This plant's flowers range from red, pink, and orange to gold and white.

To propagate this flowering succulent, Randaci recommends taking a stem cutting and removing flowers and lower leaves, leaving two or three leaves. "Allow the cutting to form a callus, like the jade plant propagation process, for a week or so and then plant in a succulent mix," says Randaci.

6. Snake plant

The snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) can be found in almost any plant lover's home. This nearly indestructible succulent is popular for its verdant, sword-like leaves and can thrive in almost any light condition and an infrequent watering schedule.

Although there are a few methods to propagating a snake plant, Randaci recommends division from rhizomes as the easiest method. Rhizomes are the underground parts of the plant that look like a thick root or piece of ginger. Cut off a healthy rhizome and repot it in a succulent mix.

7. Aloe vera

The aloe vera plant ( is world-renowned for its versatile medicinal properties and uses, while also being a low-maintenance succulent. Its long, grayish-green plump succulent stems are usually lined with a teeth-like texture on the edges, and sometimes white dots on the stems.

"The most successful method [for propagation] is from offsets or 'pups,'" says Randaci. "Separate pups when the offset is at least one-fifth the size of the parent plant or has several sets of leaves. Remove the pup from the mother plant when you see a complete root system attached."

8. String of pearls

The unique and delicate string of pearls succulent (Senecio rowleyanus) can be easily identified by its cascading, pearl-shaped leaves that resemble a beaded necklace. String of pearls is perfect for a hanging basket and is also popular for its low-maintenance care.

The best way to propagate this plant is through cuttings. Cut off about three inches of a string stem and let a callus form over the course of a few days. Place the cutting on top of a damp succulent mix.

9. Haworthia zebra

The Haworthia zebra succulent (Haworthiopsis fasciata) is found in most nurseries and plant shops. Its dark green, thick leaves look like spikes, with bumps of white stripes that give them their zebra-like appearance.

Like many succulents, the Haworthia zebra can produce offsets that can be propagated by removing them with sharp shears from the mother plant then repotted.

10. Elephant bush

The elephant bush succulent (Portulacaria afra) is named for its popularity as food for elephants in South Africa. This succulent resembles a bush or small tree with brown stems and small, bright green leaves.

Similar to the string of pearls propagation process, cuttings from your elephant bush succulent can help produce new plants. Let your cutting dry out and callous for a few days and then repot in a damp succulent mix.

How to care for succulents

Succulents are so often talked about as a unit because they all require similar care. Below, Randaci gives his tips on caring for succulents from how often to water them to what type of soil to use.

Potting soil

All plants on this list benefit from well-drained soil. To make your own succulent mix, Randaci recommends mixing half potting soil with the remaining half consisting of two-thirds sand and one-third part perlite or pumice.

"If you don't wish to make your own, you can always purchase a commercial succulent potting mix," says Randaci.

Watering

Like many houseplants, overwatering is the most common problem when caring for succulents, causing root rot and other diseases. It's easy to forget that succulents, unlike other houseplants, thrive on neglect.

"For each plant on this list, allow soil to dry between watering. Place your finger through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. If the soil feels moist, do not water," says Randaci. "When you do water, water completely until you see water coming out of the bottom of the pot. This will promote deep roots."

Quick tip: Randaci suggests using clay pots, like terracotta, for succulents. "The clay is porous and will allow for water and oxygen exchange, helping to prevent root rot," says Randaci.

Fertilizer

It's a common misconception that succulents don't require fertilizer like other houseplants, but a good fertilizer is essential for a succulent's growth and can even help produce more vibrant colors.

"Use a succulent fertilizer during the active growing season at either the recommended rate for succulents that require more water, and half the recommended rate for other succulents," says Randaci. "To avoid soft leaves and root rot, do not fertilize your succulents while they are dormant, which is usually fall and winter."

Insider's takeaway

Whether you're a first-time plant parent or have dozens of houseplants, you can never go wrong with a succulent. These hardy, low-upkeep plants only need bright indirect light and a quick drink of water every now and then. Succulents will also reward your efforts through their easy propagation methods, bringing you greenery for years to come.

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10 popular types of succulents and how to care for them

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There are six highly popular succulent types that are low maintenance and easy to propagate. Bright light and infrequent watering can help succulents thrive. Knowing the growing season of your succulent will let you know when to fertilize. Succulents may arguably be the most popular type of plant, thanks to their easy-to-care-for reputation.

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Join Team GCM Member Joy as she teaches us about plant propagation! Follow the steps to grow a new plant from a piece of one that you already have.
Materials needed:

1 houseplant (vining plants work best)

1 pair of scissors

1 glass jar

1 sunny window

Water

Instructions:

1. Cut a 5-6 inch long cutting of a stem on a houseplant.

2. Fill the glass jar with water.

3. Place the cutting in the jar of water.

4. Place the jar in a sunny window and wait.

5. Change the water with fresh water every 2 days.

6. Watch the roots grow.

7. Once the roots are 3-4 inches long, you can put the cutting in soil.

Team GCM Creator: Joy

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Join Team GCM Member Joy as she teaches us about plant propagation! Follow the steps to grow a new plant from a piece of one that you already have. Materials needed: 1 houseplant (vining plants work best) 1 pair of scissors 1 glass jar 1 sunny window Water Instructions: Cut a 5-6 inch long cutting of a stem on a houseplant.

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Have you ever wondered how some plant cuttings, when put in water, "magically" grow roots? I've got the answer for you! Read on to learn the science of how some plants can be propagated in water, as well as for instructions for how you can try propagating your own plants with your kids at home!
What is Plant Propagation?

Plant propagation is the process of growing new plants. There are two ways in which plants can be propagated. One way involves crossing the pollen and egg from 2 parent plants, which is known as sexual propagation. This method creates a genetically unique offspring from its parents and is the typical reproductive process needed for flowering plants.

A second way to propagate plants is by taking a cutting from one parent plant and stimulating it to produce a genetically identical new plant. This is known as asexual propagation. This method is done by taking a cutting of a root, stem or leaf and placing the cutting in water to stimulate new growth.

The Science of Plant Propagation from Cuttings

So, how does plant propagation actually work? Here's the science to explain how some species of plants, such as pothos plants, Chinese money plants, and spider plants, can grow new individual plants from cuttings of the parent plant.

When you take a cutting from a parent plant, the cutting goes into protection mode and forms a group of cells called a callus. Unlike the callus that forms on your foot, this group of cells has the unique ability to respond to the plant's chemical messages and differentiate, or transform, into root cells when placed in water. These root cells multiply, creating a new root system for the "baby" plant!

Propagating plants in water is a simple, yet powerful visual to introduce your kids to botany (the study of plants) and give them the confidence to grow something all by themselves, with little maintenance required!

Plant Species We've Propagated

My kids and I have successfully propagated the following species of plants in water:

Pilea Peperomiodes, a.k.a the Chinese Money Plant or Friendship Plant

Pothos plants (there's a huge variety of these plants - we regrew Golden Pothos)

Chlorophytum comosum, a.k.a the Spider Plant

You can also do a simple search online to see if any of the plants you already own would work to propagate in water. If you don't happen to own any, prior to buying a new plant, reach out to your community members in your local Buy Nothing Group, Facebook Marketplace or Next Door to see if anyone would be willing to give you a few plant cuttings!

How to Propagate your Plant in Water

Once you've chosen the plant you'd like to propagate, you'll want to grab a few simple supplies.

Materials needed to propagate plant roots

a baby clone of your parent plant (see image above for reference)

a sharp blade

a small container of water

a plastic lid (optional)

Instructions to propagate plant roots

Find a baby clone of your parent plant and, using a sharp blade, cut it from the base or stem of the parent plant.

Submerge the stem of the baby clone in water. Do not submerge the leaves. You can a) poke holes in a plastic lid to float on top of a jar of water to keep the leaves dry and the stem wet. b) fill your container with a small amount of water so only the stem of the cutting is submerged.

Change water every few days, or if it becomes cloudy or slimy.

Within 1-2 weeks, you'll start to see roots emerge.

Checking on the growth of the roots every few days was one of my kids' favorite parts of this process. If you want to incorporate some STEM building skills into this activity, you can have them measure and record the change in growth of the plant's roots every other day, and then create a line graph to visually track the data!

Potting your newly grown plant

You'll want to wait until the newly grown roots are at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) long before transplanting your plant into soil.

Once transplanted, allow the soil to dry out before watering again to help plant establish a stronger root system in its new soil environment.

Making a Recycled Pot for your Plant

As we always seem to have extra glass jars around the house, I decided to let my kids create their own potting environments using a few simple materials:

Materials for Kid-friendly Pots

cleaned, clear glass jar

small rocks

potting soil or garden soil (we used a mixture of both!)

small gardening shovel (or they can just use their hands!)

Once we collected our supplies, I had them do the following:

Instructions for making your own pots

Place small rocks in the bottom of the clear glass jar, filling it 1/4 full.

Fill the remainder of the jar with potting soil

Use your finger to make a small hole in the top of the soil that is deep enough to submerge the roots of your newly propagated plant.

Place your plant in the hole and gently press soil around its base.

Gently water your newly potted plant.

The rocks at the bottom will allow for proper drainage of the soil, however, be sure to instruct your kids to observe if there is a lot of standing water at the bottom of the jar. This indicates that there is plenty of water in their jar and the plant can go without being watered for a few days.

Using a clear, glass jar as a pot has the added benefit of allowing your kids to watch the roots of the plant continue to grow! Having their own window into the world beneath the soil is a pretty cool thing.

Propagated Plants Make Great Sustainable Gifts!

We've gifted quite a few of our propagated plants to family and friends. This past Christmas, I stumbled on a cute holiday cup and saucer at my local thrift store and, after adding a few small pebbles and some soil, it make for a festive (yet temporary) home for my plant. Note - after a few more months of growth, it would require a larger pot to continue to grow.

My kids have loved gifting the Friendship plant, also known as the Chinese Money plant, (shown above) to their own friends, as they had a sense of pride that they had grown the gift all by themselves.

Have you ever propagated plants in water before? I'd love to hear your trial and error stories! If you find this post useful, please Pin it to your favorite Pinterest board!

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How to Propagate Plants in Water with Kids.

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Have you ever wondered how some plant cuttings, when put in water, "magically" grow roots? I've got the answer for you! Read on to learn the science of how some plants can be propagated in water, as well as for instructions for how you can try propagating your own plants with your kids at home!

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Jade plant propagation is super easy, and there are a few methods that you can use. In this post I will talk about how to grow a jade plant from a leaf or stem cuttings, give you details about how to take a cutting, and show you exactly how to propagate jade plants, step-by-step.

Jade plant propagation from leaf or stem cuttings is very easy. In fact, jades are one of the best plants to start with if you've never tried propagating plants before.

I've had my jade plant for close to 20 years now, and I have propagated it many, many times over. It's fun, and I love sharing the babies with my friends.

In this detailed guide, I am going to give you tons of tips, tell you the best methods to use, and when to do it.

Then I will show you step-by-step exactly how to root jade cuttings, both from leaves and stem clippings.

Jade Plant Propagation Methods

Jade plants can be propagated from stem or leaf cuttings. Keep in mind that it takes it takes a while to get a nice sized jade plant from leaf cuttings.

So, if you want to get a head start, and don't want to wait so long, then I recommend propagating jade plant stem cuttings instead of the leaves.

But, either method is super easy and works great! Below I will show you both jade plant propagation methods, step-by-step.
Related Post: Plant Propagation: A Detailed Guide For Beginners
When To Propagate Jade Plants

Jade cuttings need a warm, humid but well ventilated environment to grow roots. So, summer is the perfect time for jade plant propagation.

Jade plants are extremely easy to propagate during the warmest months of the year. Many times a branch or leaf will break off and start to grow roots in the soil without any help from you.

But, with the right conditions, you can propagate your jade any time during the year.

Supplies For Propagating Jade Plants

Before I jump into showing you how to propagate a jade plant, you may want to collect some supplies first.

Don't worry, you won't need a ton of expensive propagation supplies for rooting jade plant cuttings, but you will need a few things...
Supplies Needed: See my detailed list of the best plant propagation supplies here.
How To Propagate Jade Plant From Cuttings

The fastest way to get a decent sized jade plant is to grow them from stem cuttings. You can propagate any size stem cutting, even huge ones.

So, if a branch broke off or you have a broken stem on your jade plant, then try propagating it. If you're pruning your jade plant, save the clippings for propagation.

Otherwise, if you just want to take a cutting specifically for propagating, here's how...

How To Take A Cutting From A Jade Plant

The first step in jade plant propagation is to choose where you want to cut the stem to make a new plant.

If you're taking stem cuttings, make sure to get at least a 3-4 inches of the stem so you have plenty of area for rooting the cutting. Use clean, sterile clippers or a knife to make the stem cutting.

You can dip your clippers in rubbing alcohol or wash them with soapy water to sterilize them before cutting jade stems.

If there are leaves growing down the entire stem, then remove a few sets of leaves. A jade plant cutting will root from the leaf joints all along the stem so the more leaf joints you have, the better the chances of roots.

Taking jade plant cuttings for propagation

Preparing A Jade Plant Cutting For Propagation

After taking a cutting from your jade plant, allow the ends of the cuttings to cure (dry out and callus over) for a few days before propagating.

This will help prevent rotting of the jade plant cutting. The larger the cutting is, the longer you should let it cure.

This isn't as much of a concern in the summer months, but definitely something you'll want to do if you're propagating succulents during the winter.

How To Propagate Jade Plant From A Leaf

Jade plant leaf propagation is definitely possible, and it's fun to experiment. However, it will take much longer for you to grow a large jade plant from leaves than it will from stem cuttings.

So keep that in mind before you go propagating a bunch of jade plant leaves. If a leaf is all you have to work with, or you want to give this method a try, here's how to get started.

How To Take Leaf Cuttings

In order to successfully grow a jade plant from a leaf, you have to make sure to take the leaf cuttings correctly. If you're planning to use the leaves for jade plant propagation, carefully break off each leaf.

Be sure to get the entire stem of the leaf when you break it off. If the bottom part is broken off of the leaf, then the leaf won't root.

Preparing A Jade Leaf For Propagation

You don't need to worry about curing leaf cuttings like you do with stem cuttings. It certainly won't hurt to allow them to dry out for a few days before trying to root them.

But don't let them sit for too long or they could shrivel up completely. You won't be able to propagate jade leaves that are completely dried out.

How To Root Jade Plant Cuttings In Soil

The best way to root jade cuttings is by planting them in soil. Don't use a closed propagation chamber or plastic baggie for this.

If the cuttings will get too much humidity, they will only end up rotting. Follow the steps below for rooting a jade plant cutting in soil...

Step 1: Dust jade cuttings in rooting hormone - Not only will the cuttings root faster when you use rooting hormone, you'll have more success with starting a jade plant from cuttings when using it.

The rooting hormone will help the cuttings root faster, and I highly recommend using it. To use it, simply dust the stem of your jade clippings, or the cut end of the leaves with rooting hormone.
Related Post: How To Choose The Best Jade Plant Soil

Dusting jade plant clipping with rooting hormone

Step 2: Fill your container with soil - Loosely fill a container with your soil mixture. Jade plants will root best in a light, sandy soil that contains a mix of coarse sand, potting soil and perlite.

General potting soil alone is usually too heavy for propagating a jade plant, and can cause the cuttings to rot.

If you don't want to mix your own, I recommend using a commercial succulent soil mix to propagate your jade plant clippings.

Step 3: Make a hole in the soil for the stem - Next use a pencil or your finger to make a hole in the middle of the rooting mixture for the jade plant cutting.

Gently place the cutting into the hole so the rooting hormone won't rub off. Then lightly pack the soil around the base of the cutting so it stays in place, and the soil is in contact with the stem.

If you're growing a jade plant from a leaf, then you don't need to make a hole. You can simply lay the leaves over the top of the soil, or you can cover the cut end with a thin layer of soil.

Step 4: Move your jade cutting to a protected area - Put the jade plant cutting in a spot where it will be protected from full sun. Don't water your jade cutting until it has roots.

If the air is really dry, then lightly mist the cutting daily with water using a plant sprayer/mister. Be careful though, they don't need very much humidity.

Once you start to see new growth on the top of the jade plant cutting, that's a good sign that it has started to grow roots.
Related Post: How to Propagate Succulents From Cuttings
How Long Does It Take For Jade Cuttings To Root?

If you're wondering how long it takes for jade cuttings to grow roots... well, that depends on the environment they're in.

If the air is super dry, then it will take longer for your cuttings to grow roots. In the right conditions, it usually takes 2-3 weeks the cuttings to start forming roots.
Related Post: Why Your Jade Plant Is Turning Red & What To Do About It
Repotting Jade Plant Cuttings

Once the roots have formed on your jade plant cutting, you can water it like you normally would any jade plant. They don't need a lot of moisture, so allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again.

You can leave the baby plants in their containers until they're large enough to pot up. I usually wait until they have outgrown their starter pots before transplanting jade plant cuttings into larger pots.

If you tend to overwater plants, put your jade plant into a clay pot rather than a plastic pot.

The best type of soil to use for potting jade plant cuttings is succulent potting soil. You can also use a gritty mix, or you can make your own using my succulent mix recipe.

Look at all these cute little baby jade plants I have now. Jade plant propagation sounds like it would be hard, but it is super easy! Now that you know how to grow jade plants from leaf and stem cuttings, you'll have tons of free plants! They make great gifts, and are fun to share with friends.

If you want to learn how to propagate even more of your favorite plants, then my Plant Propagation eBook is for you! It will teach you the basic methods or propagation, and has everything you need to get started propagating any plant that you want. Download your copy today!
Next, learn exactly how to care for your jade plant in my detailed jade plant care guide!
Recommended Books

More About Plant Propagation
Share your jade plant propagation tips in the comments section below.

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How To Propagate Jade Plant Cuttings & Leaves - Get Busy Gardening

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Jade plant propagation is super easy, and there are a few methods that you can use. In this post I will talk about how to grow a jade plant from a leaf or stem cuttings, give you details about how to take a cutting, and show you exactly how to propagate jade plants, step-by-step.

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Learn how to propagate succulents (grow more) from the ones you already own with this step-by-step tutorial on propagating succulents from leaves!

When I first started researching succulents, I kept reading how easy they were to take care of, and to propagate.

Although it's true that succulents are much easier to propagate than a lot of other plants, it's been a bit of a challenge for me to propagate them in my dry Utah climate!

However, I've figured out some tricks that made it easier-and I'm going to pass them on to you right now.

To help you even further, start by downloading my free cheat sheet to see what problems you might face while propagating succulents from leaves and how to fix them. Click here to grab that that, it'll be super helpful.

In this post, I'll show you the techniques I use to propagate succulents from leaves. Not all of these tips will apply to every climate - but they've worked for me.

How to remove a leaf for propagation

Your succulent's genus and species will determine what kind of cutting you can take. For example, most tender Sedums and some Echeverias can be propagated with either a leaf or a cutting.-though I use leaves for both.

Aeoniums, on the other hand, only work with cuttings, which means you can't propagate them with just a leaf. In other words, every variety of succulent is different-so if you're not sure what will work, experiment (like I did) and see what happens! For a start, click here to take a look at these seven succulents that I've found super easy to propagate.

To take a leaf for propagation, just gently twist the leaf off the stem. Make sure it's a clean pull, leaving nothing on the stem. In fact, it's fine to pull of a little of the stem, too.

Every time I've broken off a leaf just before the stem, it's always died-so make sure you get all the way down to the stem. It helps to get a clear view of the base of the leaf as you're pulling it off.

If you aren't keen on removing a leaf from your own plant, no worries! You can actually buy leaves to use for propagation from The Succulents Source. Click here to buy some and start propagating!

It's a really inexpensive way to start a collection of new plants, plus it's sooooo fun to propagate succulents and see those little babies growing from just a leaf!

How to take a cutting for propagation

To take a cutting, on the other hand, you'll want sharp scissors or pruning shears (I use these and absolutely love them!). Cut off a piece of the succulent just above a leaf on the stem.

You can cut off the top of the succulent, or you can cut off a new offshoot. Either will work!

Let your leaf or cutting dry out

Once you've taken your cutting or leaf, it's important to let it dry out a little bit before you do anything else. Depending on the amount of heat and sunlight, you'll want to leave the leaf or cutting alone for one to three days, so it can scab over.

If the leaf or cutting doesn't get a chance to scab over, it'll absorb too much water the first time you water it, and drown. It's totally fine if the cutting starts to shrivel up a little. Once that starts to happen, it's time to start watering.

Watering your leaf or cutting

While full-grown succulents don't need to be watered every day, leaves and cuttings do. That said, you'll want to avoid giving them too much water, which will cause them to turn orangey-brown and die.

Here's what I've found works best...

If you're working with leaves, set them on top of the soil, making sure their ends don't actually touch the soil at all, and water them each time the soil dries out. I use a spray bottle to get the top of the soil wet.

Some experts recommend putting the cut end of the leaf in the soil-but most of the leaves I tried to plant this way either rotted, or just grew roots but never started a new plant.

Echeveria minima, Graptosedum 'Alpenglow', Echeveria 'Perle von Nurnberg', Graptoveria 'Debbie'

Unlike leaves, cuttings do need to be put in the soil. Since they're almost a full-grown succulent already, all they need is to be planted and watered, and they'll start to grow roots!

Like leaves, cuttings should be watered each time you notice the soil is dry. Once you've got your watering pattern down, your cuttings will start to put off new roots and leaves within a few weeks.

Wait for Results

It takes some time for new rosettes and roots to form on succulent leaves and cuttings. The amount of time it takes will vary depending on the time of year, temperature of the area you're propagating in, type of succulent you are propagating, how humid the air is, etc.

That said, you can generally expect to see some results within 2-3 weeks.

You can see a continuously updated set of leaf propagation photos here.

If you notice that a rosette is growing on your leaf, but no roots, don't stress 🙂 This is normal. The leaf is providing all the nutrients the baby succulent needs to grow. As it gets larger it will start to put off roots as it "searches" for water.

Keeping the leaves on top of damp soil can help encourage roots to form.

Succulent Propagation Success Rate

If some of your cuttings or leaves die, don't worry-more than half of my first batch didn't make it. Some won't grow as much as their siblings, while others will put off a bunch of roots, but no leaves. Every cutting is different, and it's totally normal to lose some!

As your new plants start to grow, make sure to keep the roots covered with soil, or they'll dry out and your plants will probably stop growing.

When to plant propagated succulents

Most succulents take several months to grow to "normal" size-while some may take as long as a year. In other words, this isn't a super-speedy process-but it does work!

Once you start to see roots, cover them with soil. This way they will stay cool and have access to water. Keep watering so that the soil stays damp.

You don't need to do anything with the mother leaf. As the baby succulent gets larger, the mother leaf will begin to shrivel up and die. This is totally normal, and the mother leaf will fall off and separate from the baby leaf on its own.

Once this happens, continue to provide plenty of water for the baby succulent. Then, once it is well rooted and growing on it's own you can move it to another pot or place it in another arrangement.

You can see how I plant my propagated babies here:

While they can technically be repotted anytime, I recommend waiting until the new baby is at least an inch in diameter or more. It's also best if the baby has a deep root system.

After the baby is in its new home, make sure you're watering it enough to keep growing.

Give it a try, and soon you'll be addicted to propagating your plants!

And if you haven't already, be sure to grab my free cheat sheet to see what problems you might face while propagating succulents from leaves and how to fix them. Click here to grab the cheat sheet.

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How to Propagate Succulents from Leaves and Cuttings | Succulents and Sunshine

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Learn how to propagate succulents (grow more) from the ones you already own with this step-by-step tutorial on propagating succulents from leaves! When I first started researching succulents, I kept reading how easy they were to take care of, and to propagate.

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How To Propagate Spider Plants The Correct Way! | Best 3 Ways To Propagate Spider Plantlets!

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There are three main types of soil: sand, silt, and clay. The best soil for most plants to ensure optimum growth is a rich, sandy loam. This soil is an even mixture of all three main types of soil. In most cases, you'll need to amend the soil with compost. Depending on how compact the soil is, you may need to add peat moss and sand. However, there are many plants that are well adapted and can grow in particular types of soil.

Different Plants for Different Soils

Soil is generally described by the amount of sand, clay, and silt it contains. This is known as texture. Soil texture is directly related to nutrient quality and drainage capabilities.

Related Articles

Loam Soil

A loam soil contains a nice balance of silt, sand, and clay along with humus. The factors that make this soil type so desirable and good for growing plants include:

Higher pH level: The best pH for most plants is between 6.0 and 7.0. The pH level affects the plant's ability to grow. This range of acidity allows good plant nutrients to thrive as well as other soil organisms, such as earthworms.

Higher calcium level: Plants need calcium for healthy growth. Calcium helps maintain the balance of soil chemicals. It also ensures that water reaches the roots of plants by improving the soil's ability to retain water. It also contributes to creating the looseness of the soil, so oxygen reaches the roots. Calcium reduces the amount of salt in the soil. Too much salt damages the root systems and limits the plant's growth and ability to absorb nutrients.

Gritty texture: The soil is dry, soft but gritty to the touch, and crumbles easily to provide excellent draining properties. The soil texture also retains water and plant nutrients. This benefits the plants with consistent moisture and food. Since the soil is crumbly, the air flows easily all the way to the roots.

Sandy Soil

Sand is the largest particle in soil and does not hold nutrients well. The following plants are well-adapted to sandy soil.

Clay Soil

Soils with a large amount of clay are heavy and do not drain well. The following plants are well-adapted to clay soil.

Bee Balm: Some species grow in sandy soils, while others prefer loamy or clay soils. Check before buying which soil the plant prefers.

Black-eyed Susan: This flower can grow in a range of soils from loamy to clay. It needs good soil drainage, so you may need to amend your flower bed.

Goldenrod: This wildflower is adaptable to most soil types, including clay.

Silt Soil

Silty soil is powdery with high fertility. Unfortunately, soils that are high in silt can become waterlogged very easily. The following plants are well-adapted to silty soil.

Best Soil for Flowers

The best soil to use for flowers depends on the type of flower, such as bulb vs seed, and where you're growing it. For example, flower bulbs will thrive in sandy loam soil.

Sandy loam soil provides excellent drainage to prevent the bulb from rotting and the roots can grow easily.

The texture of potting soil is best when planting flowers in a container, such as a window box or flower pot.

For a flower garden, you can use a soil mixture of compost, peat, and topsoil as a general mix with a 1:1:1 ratio.

Best Soil for Vegetables

The best soil for a vegetable garden depends on the type of garden you have. For a raised bed garden you want a 50/50 ratio of compost and topsoil. For a field garden you need soil that drains well. Clay soil will need to be amended to ensure the water drains properly. You can amend using gypsum, vermiculite or expanded shale.

Soil for Indoor Plants

If you're growing houseplants, you might think it's a good idea to scoop some soil from your yard to grow your plants in. This is actually a bad idea since garden soil contains bacteria that can be harmful to your houseplants. There are a two options if you don't want to use commercial potting soil.

Sterilize the Outside Soil

If you opt for your outdoor soil to grow your indoor plants, you'll first need to pasteurize it in order to eliminate any diseases, as well as insects and weeds. Spread it on a cookie sheet and bake in a 180 degree oven for 30 minutes. Although this process will emit a bad odor, it does take care of the bacteria.

After the soil is sterilized, you'll likely need to amend it with peat moss and sand. These are things that will allow proper drainage and air flow while still retaining the right amount of moisture. Commercial potting soils are similar. They include peat moss and vermiculite along with a slow-release fertilizer. Together these things create a soil mix that holds nutrients, retains moisture, and provides ventilation for the roots of the plant.

Create Your Own Mix

Another option is to make your own potting soil. This will allow you to control the quality of the soil. A recipe for a lightweight soilless planting medium includes:

1/2 cubic yard peat moss

1/2 cubic yard perlite

10 pounds bone meal

5 pounds blood meal

5 pounds limestone

Mix all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight container until needed.

Science Fair Project on Best Soil for Plant Growth

You can use different soils in your science project to test which is best for plant growth. Use peat pots or other containers and fill with different soils, such as sand, silt, and clay. Make soil combinations, such as sand and clay, silt and clay and silt, sand, and clay. You may decide to create additional soils using different ratios of various combinations.

Label Pots

Label each pot clearly so you know which soil is in each vessel. Make a not in your journal. If you choose to use a numeric or alphabet coding, make sure you transfer the information accurate in your journal.

Choose Type of Seed

You want to use the same seeds for each soil type. Select the seed according to the type of plant you wish to grow. Flower plants are a popular choice as are herbs.

1. Make sure you plant each seed at the same depth.

2. Plant two seeds per container in case one seed is defective and doesn't germinate. You can remove the less healthy plant once the second set of leaves appear.

3. Plant, water and expose to sun according to the seed packet.

Document Your Experiment

Keep a daily journal on each plant. Make notations on the slightest changes or reactions to the plant growth. You want to observe all differences in the plants as they grow.

How to Measure Your Progress

Your science project needs data to back up your research. There are specific things you can measure to access which soil is best.

1. You want to measure the height and width of your plants, daily.

2. Document when each leaf unfolds.

3. Measure how each plant grows and compare to the others.

4. How many flowers does each plant produce?

5. Are the number of seeds the same?

6. Make sure to take photos or videos of the progress.

Results of Your Experiment

Depending on the requirements for your science project, you need to compile and analysis your journal data and draw a conclusion about which soil type performed the best, based on growth, health, number of leaves, flowers and seeds.

Basil Plant Expermiment Example

This video documents different soils for growing basil plants.

Water Retention, Soil, and Plant Growth Experiment Example

This video shows a project that examined the water retention properties of different soil and how it affects plant growth.

Beautiful Garden

Whether a container garden inside or a garden outside, the key to successful planting is the soil requirements of particular plants. Most soils are a combination of sand, clay, and silt. If you don't know the type of soil, you can use an inexpensive soil testing kit to find out.

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Which Soil Is Best for Plant Growth? | LoveToKnow

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There are three main types of soil: sand, silt, and clay. The best soil for most plants to ensure optimum growth is a rich, sandy loam. This soil is an even mixture of all three main types of soil. In most cases, you'll need to amend the soil with compost.

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Wherever there is sunlight, air, and soil, plants can be found. On the northernmost coast of Greenland the Arctic poppy peeps out from beneath the ice. Mosses and tussock grasses grow in Antarctica. Flowers of vivid color and great variety force their way up through the snow on mountainsides. Many shrubs and cacti thrive in deserts that go without rain for years at a time, and rivers, lakes, and swamps are filled with water plants.

To date, more than 300,000 plant species have been identified and described. However, botanists -the scientists who study plants-estimate that there are tens of thousands of unidentified species yet to be discovered, especially in less explored ecosystems such as tropical forests.

Humans are dependent upon plants. Directly or indirectly, plants provide food, clothing, fuel, shelter, and many other necessities of life. Humankind's dependence on crops such as wheat and corn (maize) is obvious, but without grass and grain the livestock that provide people with food and other animal products could not survive either.

Starches and sugars, the foods that plants make and store for their own growth, are also the fundamental nutrients that humans and other organisms need in order to live. In North America the chief food plants are cereal grains. (The word cereal comes from Ceres, the Roman goddess of agriculture.) Major cereal crops include corn (maize), wheat, oats, rice, barley, and rye. Legumes are our second greatest source of plant-based food. Legumes such as peas, dry beans, soybeans, and peanuts are high in protein and oil. Sago, taro, and cassava are major starchy foods in certain tropical parts of the world. ( Seaweeds, an important part of the diet in some cultures, especially in Asia, are not actually plants but rather are a form of algae.)

Seasonings are derived from plant materials. People have used herbs and spices for centuries to flavor and preserve food. Some seasonings, such as pepper and nutmeg, are obtained from dried fruits. Others, including thyme, sage, and rosemary, come from leaves. Plant stems provide such spices as ginger and cinnamon.

Many beverages are derived from plants. Coffee, tea, and cocoa are prepared by steeping plant material in hot water. Other drinks are "ready-made" by nature: orange, lemon, and grape juice; coconut milk; apple cider; and apricot nectar are examples. Some beverages come from processed plant materials.

Much human clothing is made from material that comes directly from plants. Cotton is the principal plant used for clothing manufacture. Artificial textile fibers, such as rayon, are manufactured chiefly from cellulose, which is found mainly in the cell walls of plants. Linen is obtained from the flax plant. In addition, plants once furnished most of the dyestuffs with which cloth was colored. ( See also fiber, man-made; fiber, natural; dye.)

More than 4,500 years ago, the ancient Egyptians prepared the first paper from the fibrous stems of papyrus, a grasslike plant. It is from the name of this plant that the word paper is derived. About ad 100 the Chinese invented a method of manufacturing paper that is still used today. Plant fibers are placed in water and reduced to a pulp. The water is sieved off, and the pulp is pressed and dried to yield a thin sheet of paper. Nearly any plant material that is rich in cellulose may be used to make pulp. Today, wood from such trees as pine and aspen is the most widely used source of pulp for paper.

Shelter and Various Products
Shelter in many parts of the world is made from wood. Plant materials appear in a number of places in human dwellings. Furniture is commonly composed of wood and cloth made from plant fibers. Walls are often covered with paper, and some paints and varnishes are derived from plant extracts.

Products made from trees are numerous. They include cork, kapok, rubber, turpentine, gums and resins, and tannins. Trees also yield important fats and oils, such as cocoa butter and tung oil.

Cellulose, found in great abundance in many plant parts, is a basic ingredient of certain plastics and other synthetic substitutes for natural fibers, leather, glass, rubber, jewels, stone, and metal. Corn (maize) and soybeans have numerous industrial uses.

Coal and natural gas are fuels used for heating and cooking. Each had their origin in plants and other organisms that lived on Earth long ago. After the organisms died, their remains became buried deep underground, where compression and heat converted them to fossil fuels. Peat, which is formed from partially decayed plant material buried in bogs, is a common fuel in Ireland and certain other countries.

Wood is still burned for heat in many parts of the world, and it is popular for use in open fireplaces. Charcoal, formed from incompletely burned wood, is a major fuel in many tropical countries where other fuels are unavailable or are very expensive. Charcoal is also popular in North America for outdoor cooking.

Through the ages, people have found that certain plants could be used to relieve their aches and pains. Most medicine men and physicians in ancient cultures were experts on plants. In fact, the study of botany in Europe and America had its beginnings in medicine, when doctors searched for herbs to cure disease.

Many medicinal plants that were discovered by early peoples are still in use today. For example, some Native Americans chewed on the leaves of willows to relieve aches and pains. These leaves contain salicylic acid, a compound very similar to aspirin. The leaves of the foxglove yield digitalis, which is used to treat heart disease. Quinine, from the bark of the South American cinchona tree, was long used to combat malaria.

Medicinal substances are still being discovered in plants. Vincristine, a medicine that has proved effective in the treatment of leukemia in children, was discovered in the common periwinkle plant. The periwinkle is native to South Africa and is cultivated in gardens around the world. Many plants are invaluable sources of vitamins, whose importance to human growth and health was an important 20th-century discovery.

Not all drugs derived from plants are beneficial. Some plant drugs are violent poisons or habit-forming narcotics. These include peyote, which is derived from a cactus, and opium, which comes from a poppy.

Plants are essential parts of ecosystems. Most of the energy consumed in terrestrial ecosystems is provided by plants, and as a consequence, land animals are dependent on them for their food. Plants absorb minerals, such as potassium and phosphorus, from the soil. These are stored in plant tissues and are an essential part of the diet of animals that eat plants. Plants help form, enrich, and stabilize soil. Hearty mosses help break down and crumble rock into soil. The roots of trees and other plants also contribute to this process. Decaying plant material such as leaves increases the fertility of soil. Plant roots hold the soil in place and prevent erosion.

Exactly what is a plant and how is it different from other life-forms? This may initially seem like a simple question. Everyone knows that an elm tree is a plant, whereas a dog is not. Nevertheless, the precise definition of plants is still a matter of debate among some scientists.

As recently as the late 1960s, scientists believed that all organisms could be classified as members of either the plant or the animal kingdom. Life-forms that are green and that can synthesize their own food using light energy were put in the plant kingdom. Those organisms that lack green pigment and are able to move about were considered to be animals. As scientists made more detailed studies of certain organisms that were considered to be plants, they recognized that they were very different from plants and that they did not share an evolutionary history with them.

Today plants are recognized as multicellular organisms that have cells with cell walls composed of cellulose, a rigid complex carbohydrate. Cellulose is the material that lends stiffness to tree trunks, twigs, and the veins of leaves. Most plants can carry out photosynthesis. This activity takes place in special structures, or organelles, called chloroplasts and makes use of a green chemical compound called chlorophyll.

Plants are eukaryotes-that is, their cells contain a true nucleus and other membrane-bound bodies. This property distinguishes plants from bacteria and archaea, which are prokaryotes-organisms made up of a single cell that does not contain a true nucleus.

Eukaryotes have larger and much more complex cells than do prokaryotes. Eukaryotes traditionally have been divided into four kingdoms: Protista, Fungi, Animalia, and Plantae. Scientists distinguish between these kingdoms based on differences in the structure of the eukaryotes' cells and tissues. A modified classification scheme based on similarities and differences among organisms at the molecular level, broadly divides all living organisms into three branches, or domains-Archaea, Bacteria, and Eukarya. The latter domain includes all eukaryotes-protists, fungi, animals, and plants.

Most members of the kingdom Protista have only one cell. The protist kingdom has three main groups-protozoa, algae, and slime and water molds. Most of the protists called protozoans do not carry out photosynthesis and must obtain their food from other life-forms. Euglena are protozoans that contain chlorophyll and are able to synthesize their food through photosynthesis, as can algae. Most algae are single-celled organisms, but some, such as red, brown, and certain types of green algae, are multicellular. Certain species of multicellular green algae that live in ponds have many plantlike features and are closely related to plants. Slime molds and water molds are saprophagous, meaning they get energy by breaking down dead or decaying matter.

Fungi -the yeasts, molds, and mushrooms-have a cell wall and reproduce by means of spores. Fungi do not contain chlorophyll, however, and the chemical makeup of the cell walls of fungi is quite different from that of plants. Patterns of reproduction in fungi are also quite different from those of plants.

Animals (kingdom Animalia) are distinguished from protozoa because animals are composed of many cells arranged into tissues. Animal cells lack cell walls and chloroplasts. At some stage during their lives, animals are capable of moving about under their own power.

Plants, unlike many animals and protozoans, cannot move about freely by their own efforts. Plants are capable of certain kinds of movement, such as turning toward light and reaching toward water, but not of moving themselves from place to place.

Plants may be organized according to the forms in which they grow. They can also be classified according to the length of their life cycles or in terms of their complexity and evolutionary ancestry.

Classification by Growth Form
A common classification scheme is based on growth form. Plants are called trees if they have tall, woody stems, or trunks, and are generally 8 feet (2.4 meters) or more in height when mature. Shrubs are low, woody plants, usually with many stems branching off close to the ground. Herbs have tender, juicy stems in which the woody tissue is much less developed than it is in shrubs and trees.

Within each of these groups there is a great deal of variety. For example, some trees, such as the giant sequoia, can grow to heights of more than 300 feet (90 meters), whereas others, such as the flowering dogwood, rarely grow to more than 30 feet (9 meters) in height.

Classification of Flowering Plants
Flowering plants may be divided into three groups, according to the length and pattern of their life cycles. Annuals complete their life cycle in a single year. The seeds sprout, or germinate, the seedlings develop into flowering plants, new seeds are produced, and the parent plant dies-all in a single growing season. Annual plants often grow in habitats that are inhospitable during part of the year. They survive through these inhospitable periods in the form of seeds, which can withstand environmental extremes. Many familiar garden flowers are annuals.

Biennials require two years to complete their life cycle. In the first year they produce stems and leaves; in the second year they produce blossoms and seeds and then die. During the first year they produce through photosynthesis the food reserves that they need to produce their flowers and seeds the following year. In this group are many garden flowers, including Canterbury bells, foxgloves, hollyhocks, and English daisies.

Perennials live for more than two years. The oldest living thing on Earth is thought to be a bristlecone pine that is about 4,900 years old. Wildflowers are perennial plants. All the common garden perennials, including peonies, irises, and phlox, were developed from wild species.

Some perennials produce flowers and seeds throughout their lives. Others, however, produce flowers only once and then die. The American aloe, or century plant, for example, is a type of agave typically lives for more than a decade while its stem and leaves grow. Eventually, the plant produces an enormous flowering stalk up to 40 feet (12 meters) tall. After the flowers mature and seeds are produced, the plant soon dies.

Most perennials are annual above ground-that is, their stems, leaves, and blossoms die in the fall. These plants, however, survive through the winter by means of their underground roots and stems. Trees, shrubs, and herbs also live and grow in much the same way.

Classification by Complexity
Scientists organize the plant kingdom into divisions that are arranged in order from the simplest to the most complex. The plant divisions can be arranged into three main groups on the basis of differences in the structure of the plant bodies. These groups are the nonvascular plants (liverworts, hornworts, and mosses), seedless vascular plants (ferns and their relatives), and vascular seed plants.

Nonvascular plants
The first land plants were the liverworts (division Marchantiophyta), hornworts (division Anthocerotophyta), and mosses (division Bryophyta). These nonvascular land plants first grew more than 450 million years ago. Although plants belonging to these three divisions are able to grow on land and are more complex than most algae, they lack the specialized tissues for transporting water and food that are found in more developed plants, and they do not make seeds. Some of these plants can survive in dry habitats, but they all require abundant moisture in order to reproduce.

Liverworts have simple stems, or none at all, and have either simple leaves or flat green bodies that resemble leaves. On their undersurfaces are rootlike structures but no true roots. Hornworts have small green bodies that are flat and almost circular. The spore cases are erect, slender capsules that rise slightly above the surface of the plants-these are the "horns" of the hornworts. Mosses show the beginnings of leaves, stems, and roots. They were the first green plants to stand erect.

Seedless vascular plants
Seedless vascular plants- ferns and their relatives-are plants that have specialized tissues for conducting water and food but that do not reproduce by means of seeds. They first appeared on dry land more than 400 million years ago. Seedless vascular plants include the club mosses (division Lycophyta), horsetails (division Equisetophyta), and ferns (division Pteridophyta). These plants have stems, roots, and leaves that are similar to those of higher plants. They do not produce flowers, however; they reproduce by means of spores. Their vascular tissues allow them to survive in habitats that are sometimes dry but, like the nonvascular land plants, they require abundant moisture to reproduce.

Club mosses are usually a few inches high, though their stems may creep along the ground for distances of more than 50 feet (15 meters). They have slender, simple or branching stems and small scalelike leaves. Club mosses look like little pine trees, with tiny club-shaped "cones" at the tips of the branches. Pine-tree cones, however, produce seeds; the cones of the club mosses produce spores. Horsetails have jointed stems that look somewhat like bamboo. The scaly leaves grow in whorls around the stem at the joints. Like the club mosses, the horsetails have spore-producing cones at the tops of their branches.

Millions of years ago the ancestors of the modern ferns covered Earth in vast forests. Their remains formed the coal beds found in the ground today. Tropical ferns still grow as tall as trees; however, in temperate climates, ferns are generally small, shade-loving plants.

Vascular seed plants
Vascular seed plants, which include conifers and flowering plants, have transport tissues and produce seeds. Seed plants evolved more than 300 million years ago. Plants that reproduce by means of seeds do not necessarily require abundant moisture in order to complete their life cycle. As a result, seed plants are able to grow in much drier habitats than are plants that depend on spores for reproduction. Seed plants include five divisions: the cycads (Cycadophyta), the ginkgo (Ginkgophyta), the conifers (Coniferophyta), the gnetophytes (Gnetophyta), and the flowering plants (Magnoliophyta). The first four groups are often called gymnosperms, a name that refers to the fact that their seeds lie naked, or exposed, on the scales of cones. Flowering plants are often called angiosperms-their seeds are protected inside a fruit.

About 280 to 70 million years ago, cycads were among the most abundant plants on Earth. Today they are found only in wet tropical forests. These plants resemble palm trees. The ginkgo, or maidenhair tree, is often called a living fossil. It is the only surviving species of the Ginkgophyta division. Though native to China, it has been planted as an ornamental tree in many parts of the world.

Conifers are common members of the world's temperate forest ecosystems. Most conifers produce pollen and bear their seeds in cones. These cones vary in size from less than 0.5 inch (1.3 centimeters) in diameter in junipers to nearly 2 feet (0.6 meter) long in sugar pines. Most conifers are evergreen, retaining their needlelike leaves year-round. Several species, however, such as the larch and bald cypress, shed their needles during the harsh winter months. Some conifers, such as the yellowwood of the Southern Hemisphere, have broad leaves. Gnetophytes have many structural features that resemble those of flowering plants, but they have naked seeds.

The Magnoliophyta first appeared several million years after the first conifers. The reproductive structures of these plants are flowers, and their seeds are protected within a fruit. The Magnoliophytes are the most abundant of all plants-more than 300,000 species of flowering plants have been described, more than all other kinds of plants combined.

The flowering plants were historically divided into two main groups-the monocotyledons (or monocots) and dicotyledons (or dicots)-on the basis of embryonic leaf formation. The sprouting seeds of monocots produce a single embryonic leaf. Those of the dicots produce two embryonic leaves. These two groups were distinguished by a number of other features as well, including the number of flower parts, the arrangement of stem tissue, and the pattern of veins in the leaves.

However, modern studies using molecular-based evidence revealed that plants thought of as being "typical" dicots had evolved from within another group that includes the more primitive, or basal, dicots and the monocots together. This group of typical dicots is now known as the eudicots. The groups are also distinguished by pollen characteristics: pollen grains of monocots and basal dicots have a single pore, or furrow; eudicot pollen grains have three such furrows.

Most monocots are herbs; they include such plants as grasses, lilies, and orchids. Not all monocots are small, however. The palms, for example, may grow to more than 100 feet (30 meters) in height.

The basal dicots include a variety of herbs, shrubs, and trees. Water lilies, star anise, laurels, and magnolias are just a few examples of plants in the basal dicot group.

The eudicots are the largest group within the angiosperms and include a wide variety of herbs, shrubs, and trees. Eudicot trees include oaks, maples, beeches, and hickories; familiar eudicot herbs include roses, asters, carnations, buttercups, and tulips. Most food crops also are eudicots, including cabbages, potatoes, apples, kale, peanuts, and beans. An exception is corn, which is a grass and therefore a monocot.

A plant is actually more complex than it might appear. Its various parts, composed of specialized cells and tissues, work together to carry on the plant's life functions. The leaves gather sunlight and help the plant make its food; the stems support the plant; the roots anchor the plant and draw water and minerals from the soil; the flowers, fruits, and seeds play a role in the plant's reproduction.

Plant Cells and Tissues
All living things are made up of tiny units called cells, which are composed of organic substances such as carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. In plants, cells are grouped together to form tissues. Plant tissues are said to be simple if they are composed of a single type of cell and complex if they are composed of two or more cell types. The tissues make up the various parts of a plant and perform particular functions.

Simple tissues
Also referred to as ground tissues, simple tissues include the tissues known as parenchyma, collenchyma, and sclerenchyma. Parenchyma tissue is composed of parenchyma cells, which are found throughout the plant. They are particularly abundant in the stems and roots. The leaf cells that carry out photosynthesis are also parenchyma cells. Unlike many other plant cells, parenchyma cells are alive at maturity and retain the ability to divide. They perform many functions. Some are specialized for photosynthesis, others for storage, and still others for secretion and transport. An important class of parenchyma cells makes growth tissues called meristem and cambium. These tissues give rise to all other tissues in the plant body.

Like parenchyma cells, collenchyma cells are alive at maturity. They differ from parenchyma cells in that they have thick cell walls. Collenchyma tissue is most often found in the form of strands or cylinders of cells in stems and leaves. The thick cell walls of collenchyma cells provide support to these plant structures. The strands of tissue in celery are collenchyma tissues.

Sclerenchyma tissue is found throughout the plant. The cells of this tissue also have thick cell walls. These walls are often composed of the substance lignin, which gives the walls a great deal of strength. At maturity the cells die, but their cell walls remain intact. Sclerenchyma cells give plant parts strength and support.

The most common kinds of sclerenchyma cells are fibers-long slender cells that often occur in bundles or strands. These cells are interwoven so that the tissue is very strong. Manila hemp, used for making rope, is derived mainly from these fibers. Other sclerenchyma cells, called sclereids, or stone cells, form the shells and husks of seeds and nuts. Stone cells are scattered throughout certain fruits. They give fruits such as pears a gritty texture.

Complex tissues
The complex tissues include the dermal and vascular tissues of plants. The epidermis is the outermost layer of cells on the plant body. It covers the leaves, stems, and roots, as well as the flower parts and seeds. In most plants the epidermis is only one cell-layer thick. The epidermal cells are closely packed. When viewed through a microscope, they resemble a stone pavement. The outer cell wall of the epidermis-the cuticle-is very thick. It contains a waxy chemical known as cutin. Because water does not easily move through the cuticle, this layer protects the plant from water loss. The cuticle also protects the delicate tissues underneath from damage.

The epidermis of leaves and of some stems has small openings that allow gases to move in and out. These openings are called stomata (a single opening is called a stoma). Each stoma is opened and closed by two specialized cells called guard cells. Unlike other dermal cells, guard cells have chlorophyll and carry out photosynthesis. These cells swell during the day, causing the stoma to open. During the night they lose pressure, and the stoma closes.

In older stems and roots the epidermis may be replaced by periderm tissue. It is periderm that produces the tough bark that protects tree trunks. It consists mainly of cork tissue rich in sclerenchyma cells. Periderm also includes specialized parenchyma cells that produce cork tissue by means of cell division.

Vascular tissues are specialized for the transport of materials throughout the plant body. They include two types of complex tissue: xylem, which carries water and dissolved minerals, and phloem, which carries food in the form of sugary sap. These complex tissues are arranged either in strands or in units called vascular bundles. The strands form a continuous transport system that extends from the roots, up the stems, to the leaves. The leaf veins are composed of vascular bundles.

Xylem is the principal material in wood. It includes four types of cells: parenchyma, fibers, tracheids, and vessel members. Parenchyma cells are the only living cells in xylem. They form rays through the xylem and transport materials across it. Parenchyma cells also produce other xylem cells. The thick cell walls of fibers provide support to the xylem.

Tracheids are long cigar-shaped cells. They have thick cell walls that contain lignin. Like fibers, they are dead at maturity. The cell walls of tracheids contain many pores, which allow water to flow easily from one tracheid to the next. Tracheids also provide support to the xylem. Tracheids are the only type of water-conducting cells found in such primitive vascular plants as ferns and conifers.

In flowering plants, the cells called vessel members form vessels that run up and down the xylem. Like those of tracheid cells, the cell walls of vessel members contain lignin. As vessel members mature, the cell wall at each end of the cell dissolves and the living part of the cell dies, leaving a continuous "pipe" through which water can move.

Like xylem, phloem includes parenchyma and sclerenchyma cells. The type of cell primarily responsible for transporting food through the plant body is the sieve cell. These are elongated cells joined together end to end to form a sieve tube. A vascular bundle may contain hundreds of sieve tubes. Sieve cells are alive at maturity (the transport of food materials requires the activity of living cells). The walls at the ends of sieve cells have large pores through which food materials can be readily moved. The sieve cells of flowering plants lack a nucleus; adjacent to each sieve cell are several companion cells that function in place of the missing nucleus.

Plants may well be thought of as food factories. The most important part of the plant factory is the chemical laboratory-the leaves. Within the cells of the leaves the chlorophyll-containing organelles called chloroplasts carry out photosynthesis. Life on Earth depends on photosynthesis. Without it there would be no green plants, and without green plants there would be no terrestrial animal life.

Although some plants have chloroplasts in stem-tissue cells, green leaves are the chief laboratories in which photosynthesis takes place. The epidermis of the leaf usually consists of a single layer of cells covering both the top and bottom of the leaf. Most epidermal cells do not contain chloroplasts. The tiny openings called stomata usually occur on the lower surface of the leaf. Stomata permit gases to enter the leaf and permit gases and water vapor to leave the leaf. If the stomata were on the side of the leaf exposed to sunlight, the leaf would lose too much water. Some leaves have chloroplasts and stomata on both sides and turn their edges to the Sun.

Between the upper and lower epidermis of the leaf is a layer of cells called the mesophyll. The mesophyll is composed of parenchyma cells that have chloroplasts-it is in the mesophyll that most photosynthesis takes place. Mesophyll cells form a loose network with many gaps, allowing carbon dioxide and water vapor to move freely among the cells. A single square inch (6.5 square centimeters) of an elm leaf may have 250 million chloroplasts, and a mature elm tree may have 100,000 leaves.

The veins of the leaves contain the transport tissues-xylem and phloem. Xylem brings water and mineral nutrients such as nitrogen to the mesophyll cells. Phloem transports sugars and organic matter from the mesophyll cells to other parts of the plant.

The colorless plants that lack chlorophyll are either parasites, which live on other plants, or saprophytes, which live on decaying animal or vegetable matter. Dodder, mistletoe, and Indian pipe are parasites.

A crucial part of higher plants is the stem. (The simplest plants have none.) Stems give the plant support. The xylem and phloem within the stem distribute the water and sap throughout the plant. Leaves, flowers, and branches develop from buds on the stem.

Stems have many different forms. The woody upright trunk of a tree is a stem. Shrubs have many woody stems. Lianas are species of large vines that have climbing stems with roots in the ground. Grapevines are woody lianas. The stems of such plants may also have curly tendrils-modified branches that cling to a tree or other support. In tropical forests there are many kinds of woody lianas that climb up the trunks of trees into the sunlight.

The stems of herbs have very little woody tissue. The banana tree is not a tree at all but an herb because its trunk, or stem, is not woody. There are several kinds of herbaceous stems. Most of the familiar flowers have upright stems. The stems of cucumber and pumpkin plants lie prostrate on the ground. Morning-glory and bindweed stems twine upward with the help of tendrils.

A horizontal stem growing below the surface of the ground is called a rhizome. The common iris, for example, grows from a rhizome. Short, fleshy underground stems are called tubers. The potato is a tuber. Its "eyes" are actually buds from which the aboveground potato stems sprout. Upright underground stems enlarged with stored food, such as those produced by the gladiolus, are called corms. A stem that grows erect and then curves over, touching the ground at its tip, is called a stolon. Certain roses and raspberries have stoloniferous, or stolon-bearing, stems. A stem that runs along the ground, often far from the point where the plant has its roots, is called a runner. Strawberry plants have such stems.

Flowering plants may be classified as monocots, basal dicots, and eudicots on the basis of embryonic leaf formation, as well as several molecular and structural characteristics. Among the latter is the arrangement of the vascular bundles within their stems. ( See also section on plant classification in this article.) In basal dicots and eudicots (plants with two embryonic leaves), the bundles are arranged in a circle around the central portion of the stem, called the pith. These plants also may be recognized by the veining of their leaves, which in most dicots are arranged in the form of a network.

A tree trunk is a typical dicot stem. The stump of a tree reveals the same kind of rings as those in the stem of a violet viewed under a microscope. Immediately beneath the outer layer, or epidermis, of the dicot stem is a layer called the cortex. The cortex is composed of parenchyma cells that primarily store food. Inside the cortex are the vascular bundles. The phloem, which conducts food through the plant body, is located within the vascular bundles toward the outside of the stem. The xylem, toward the inside of the stem, conducts water upward from the roots. Between the xylem and the phloem is the third tissue, the cambium. This is a layer of parenchyma cells; the cells toward the outside produce phloem cells, and those toward the inside produce xylem cells. The growth in the diameter of a stem takes place in the cambium layer. The center of the stem, the pith, serves as a storage place for reserve food.

In woody plants, such as shrubs and trees, the cambium forms a continuous ring around the stem and produces a continuous ring of phloem to the outside and xylem to the inside. As a result, the xylem forms a solid core-the wood. As the stem matures, the pith and cortex may disappear. The cell walls of the tracheid cells and vessel members of the xylem that are produced in the springtime are thinner than those produced in the summer. This variation results in the formation of distinct rings in the wood that indicate the growth pattern of the tree over the period of a year. These rings are called annual rings.

In monocots, which have one embryonic leaf, vascular bundles in the form of strands are scattered throughout the stem. The veins in their leaves generally run parallel to one another. Grasses, corn (maize), bananas, palms, and lilies are among the monocots. Monocot stems have a cortex and vascular bundles with xylem and phloem. Their vascular bundles do not have a cambium layer, and the stems have no central pith. Because they lack cambium, monocots grow in height but, with the exception of palms, the diameter of their stems does not increase.

Vascular bundles divide into smaller bundles as they enter branches, twigs, leafstalks, and finally leaves. Food moves not only up and down but also sideways into all parts of the plant. Vascular rays and pith rays carry sap horizontally through the cell walls.

Stems are distinguished from roots in that stems have buds. Buds called terminal buds occur at the tip of the stem and lateral buds grow on the sides of the stem. The buds develop into leaves, side branches, and flowers or cones. Annuals, most biennials, and a few perennials have naked buds that are covered only by the flower parts or elementary leaves. Perennials that must survive the hardships of winter have protected buds that are covered with waterproof waxy bud scales. When the buds begin to swell in the spring, the bud scales fall off, leaving scars. The amount of annual growth of a plant can be measured by the distance between these scars.

Active buds are those that are growing and producing new plant parts. Most buds are latent-that is, they do not grow unless the plant suffers injury, as from fire, insects, or frost. Latent buds lie in reserve and are stimulated to growth only when necessary to restore the plant to good health. ( See also section on plant reproduction and growth in this article.)

The roots may be called the receiving rooms of the plant factory, for one of their chief functions is to draw water and minerals from the soil. As rainwater filters into the ground, it dissolves the minerals in the soil. The plant uses this solution for its work in making food. Roots also anchor the plant in the soil and serve as places to store food.

When a seed sprouts, the first thing to break out of the coat is the root (called the radicle at this early stage). No matter what the position of the seed is when it is planted-whether upright, sideways, or upside down-the root always turns downward.

The most important part of a root is its tip, where the actively dividing cells in the meristem tissues are found. Just above the very end of the root, called the root cap, root hairs extend from the cells of the epidermis. These root hairs increase the surface area in contact with the soil and increase the plant's ability to draw water and minerals. The root hairs are seldom seen because when a plant is pulled up they are broken off. This is why flowers and trees that are to be transplanted must be carefully dug up, with a ball of earth to which the roots are fastened remaining at the base.

Roots take in enormous quantities of water. It has been estimated that one alfalfa plant requires about 900 pounds (408 kilograms) of water; a potato plant, 636 pounds (288 kilograms); wheat, 500 pounds (227 kilograms); and cactus, 40 pounds (18 kilograms). A small amount of this water is used for photosynthesis or is retained in the plant's cells; most passes into the air through the leaves in a process called transpiration. Because all this water must enter the plant through its roots, a plant must have a vast root network. After four months, a single rye plant, for example, has about 13,800,000 roots. If the epidermis of those roots was spread out flat, it would cover a football field.

Flowers and Fruits
Flowers are the primary reproductive organs of those plants belonging to the division Anthophyta. The flowers are where the seeds that will give rise to new plants are produced. The primary parts of the flower are the sepals, petals, stamens, and pistil.

The leaflike sepals form the protective covering for the flower bud before it opens. All of the petals together are called the corolla. The petals are often brightly colored to attract insects or other animals that might pollinate the flower. Some flowers have glands at the base of the petals or sepals that produce nectar-an additional attraction to pollinators.

The stamens produce pollen grains. In a typical flower the lowermost portion of the pistil is swollen to form the ovary, within which the ovules are found. Ovules develop into seeds after they are fertilized-that is, after pollen is transferred from the stamen to the pistil ( see section on plant reproduction and growth in this article).

The arrangement of flower parts varies from one plant species to another. Often the color and shape of the corolla is such that only particular insects or hummingbirds are attracted to the flower. For example, only insects with long "tongues" can reach the nectar produced at the base of the corolla of certain orchids. Some flowers lack sepals, petals, or both. This is true, for example, of many forest trees that depend on wind, rather than insects, to carry pollen from flower to flower. In some plants, flowers may be specialized: some have stamens and others have pistils. The common persimmon of temperate forests, for example, has "male" trees, which produce flowers that have only stamens, and "female" trees, which produce flowers that have only pistils.

After the ovules in the ovary have been fertilized, the ovary may begin to enlarge into a fruit. A fruit is a matured ovary that contains seeds. In some plants the ovary wall may separate into two layers. The inner layer forms a hard shell, called the stone or pit, that encloses the seed. The outer layer may be fleshy and succulent. The peach, cherry, and apricot are examples of such fruits. In the fruits called berries, the seeds are embedded entirely in fleshy tissue. Dry fruits, such as nuts and acorns, are those in which the ovary wall forms a hard outer covering. ( See also flower, "How Fruit Develops.")

Embryonic plants, called seeds, vary considerably in size. Orchids, for example, produce seeds as small as dust particles. The coconut is one of the largest seeds in the plant kingdom. In many seeds, the protective outer seed coat is composed of sclerenchyma cells, which make the coat resistant to physical damage and which may also contain waxes and oils that help prevent water loss.

The embryo within the seed begins as a single cell, the zygote (a fertilized egg). The basic organs of the plant body can be found in the embryo. In some seeds the embryonic leaves, or cotyledons, are quite large, filling most of the volume of the seed. Such cotyledons are major sources of stored food for the embryo. Beans are examples of plants with large cotyledons. In many other plants the cotyledons are relatively small, and the embryo is nourished by a tissue called endosperm.

Plants continue to live on Earth by producing new plants. This process, called reproduction, may be asexual (without the union of two different sex cells) or sexual (involving the union of two different sex cells).

Asexual Reproduction
Some plants may reproduce asexually. Mosses and liverworts, for example, often have cuplike structures on their leaves or stems that contain plant fragments called gemmae. Gemmae break loose and can germinate to establish a new plant, which is genetically identical to its parent. ( See also cell, "How Cells Divide.")

Most vascular plants can reproduce by a form of asexual reproduction known as vegetative reproduction. For example, under the proper conditions, pieces of leaf or stem broken from a plant may produce roots and establish a new individual. Plants that produce runners and stolons often reproduce vegetatively. The strawberry produces runners that may establish a new plant. The runners can then be broken without disturbing the parent or the new plant.

Many garden plants reproduce more efficiently from roots, stems, and leaves than from seeds (which are a part of sexual reproduction). Such vegetative reproduction has the advantage of producing larger plants more rapidly. The potato seed, for example, is very small and develops into a small, weak plant. The tuber, however, contains a reserve supply of starch and produces a strong, fast-growing plant. Vegetative reproduction enables plants to spread quickly over the area surrounding the parent plant. Many weeds are difficult to control because they grow quickly using vegetative reproduction. Bulbs, corms, rhizomes, runners, and tubers are all types of stems from which new plants may grow.

Cuttings, also called slips, are twigs, branches, or leaves cut from the parent plant and placed in soil, sand, or water. In time, new roots, stems, and leaves grow from the cuttings. The willow tree, geranium, begonia, and African violet are examples of plants that may be produced in this way. A process called layering is used with certain trees and shrubs. When a branch is bent down to touch the soil, it sends roots into the ground and a new plant results. Gooseberries, blackberries, grapevines, and forsythia may be reproduced in this way.

Improved varieties of fruit are obtained by grafting. In this process the stem of a plant that has produced superior fruit is made to grow on the stem of another plant, called the stock, of hardy but inferior quality. The stems are cut so that the cambium layers of the two are in contact and grow together. The cuts are then tied together and covered with cloth or with a special wax. Budding is the process of removing a bud from one plant and setting it into the bark of another, usually a young seedling.

Sexual Reproduction
In sexual reproduction male and female cells, called gametes, unite to form a single cell, called a zygote. This zygote then undergoes cell division, ultimately giving rise to a new plant body. Offspring produced by asexual reproduction are identical to their parent. Offspring produced sexually, however, have two parents and so, though they certainly resemble the parents, the offspring are not necessarily identical to them. Consequently, sexual reproduction is a process that increases variation among offspring. ( See also genetics.)

In plants, the process of sexual reproduction takes place in two distinct phases, or generations. In one phase the organism reproduces by means of spores and in the other by means of sex cells. This reproductive pattern is called alternation of generations.

The structure that produces spores is known as the sporophyte. Spores are single cells that, like the gametes of animals, are produced by a type of cell division called meiosis. When a spore germinates, it produces the gametophyte, the structure that produces gametes. When male gametes unite with female gametes they form the zygote.

The alternation of generations is perhaps most clearly seen in ferns, because the sporophyte and gametophyte form independent structures. The common fern fronds that grow along stream banks are sporophytes. They produce spores in structures called sori, which are often found on the underside of the plant's leaves. When a released spore lands at a place favorable for germination, it grows into the gametophyte. The gametophyte is a heart-shaped plant less than 0.25 inches (0.6 centimeters) across and it produces male and female gametes. When a male gamete unites with a female gamete, a zygote is formed that grows into a young fern plant-another sporophyte. Ferns most often grow in moist habitats, such as along streams, because the male gametes require moisture in order to move to the location of the female gametes.

The most highly developed plants are those that produce new plants by means of seeds. In seed plants the dominant form of the plant is the sporophyte. The gametophytes are usually microscopic and form within a part of the sporophyte, typically a cone or flower. Seeds then develop from the union of a male and a female cell produced by the gametophytes. The development of reproduction by means of seeds allowed plants to propagate in many different habitats. For example, unlike ferns, seed plants can reproduce even in very dry locations.

The earliest seed plants were seed ferns, which are now extinct. They produced their seeds on special leaves. Then the conifers and their relatives evolved. These plants produce sex cells on the scales of cones. The male sex cells are produced in small cones called microstroboli. During pollination, billions of pollen grains are released from these cones into the wind. Most of this pollen falls to the ground and is wasted, but a small amount of the pollen produced lodges on the ovules of the female cones. The ovules contain the female sex cell, the egg. The pollen grains germinate and produce a pollen tube that carries the male gamete, or sperm, to the egg. The egg and sperm unite to form a zygote. The zygote then divides by normal cell division to produce an embryonic plant. The embryo and the ovule that surround it together form the seed.

Pollination in the flowering plants is far more efficient. The brilliant colors, delicate perfumes, and sweet nectar of many flowering plants attract insect visitors to the flowers. Pollen from the flower's stamen is picked up by the hairs on the insects' bodies and carried to another flower. Some of these pollen grains then rub off the insect and onto the top of the flower's pistil, called the stigma. These pollen grains then germinate, producing a pollen tube that carries sperm cells to the egg within the ovules in the ovary. The sperm cells and egg fuse to form a zygote, and the zygote divides to produce an embryo. The embryo and ovule develop to form the seed and the ovary becomes the fruit. ( See also flower, "How Fertilization Takes Place"; pollen and pollination.)

Seed Germination
The embryo has all of the basic plant parts. As the seed begins to grow, its epicotyl or plumule will form the plant shoot. The cotyledons quickly unfold into leaves and begin producing food for the plant. The radicle gives rise to the root system. The region that connects the radicle and plumule is called the hypocotyl.

In most plants, the nutritive tissue in the seed is endosperm, formed during the fertilization process. Seeds with large amounts of endosperm include those of corn (maize), castor beans, and pumpkins. The "milk" contained in coconuts is actually endosperm. The seeds of other plants, such as beans and peas, contain very little endosperm. In these plants the cotyledons of the embryo are quite large and provide nourishment to the embryo during germination.

Seed germination requires moisture, oxygen, and a suitable temperature, but there are sufficient food and minerals stored in the seed so that these factors are not necessarily essential during the very early stages of germination. Many seeds germinate best in the dark. Initially they can grow using food reserves from the endosperm or cotyledons. Within a few days of germination, however, the developing seedling must have light in order to manufacture its own food.

Seed germination begins when the seed absorbs water. This causes the inner tissue layers to swell enough to rupture the seed coat. Water also hastens chemical reactions that occur very slowly in dormant dry seeds. These chemical reactions provide food directly to the embryo, causing it to begin its growth.

The rapid growth of the embryo results in very high rates of respiration. This is why oxygen is so important for the germination of most seeds. Seeds that are deprived of oxygen once they begin to germinate soon die. This sometimes happens when planted seeds receive too much water-oxygen cannot diffuse easily into very wet soil.

Once germination of the seed begins, the radicle emerges. The radicle grows rapidly downward through the soil to establish the root system. In some plants, the tissues that make up the hypocotyl stretch, pushing the cotyledons above the soil. The cotyledons can then unfold and begin producing food. In plants with cotyledons that store food, the cotyledons may remain in the soil. Once the root system is established, the epicotyl rapidly develops into a system of shoots and leaves.

Before germination, dry seeds are very resistant to environmental stresses such as drought or unfavorable temperatures. This portion of the plant's life cycle allows the plant to survive during periods when plant growth is impossible. In order to prevent seeds from germinating when conditions are unfavorable, many seeds are dormant when they are produced. This means that they will not germinate even if there is sufficient moisture and oxygen and suitable temperatures. Such seeds are nevertheless alive. If allowed to "afterripen" for a period of weeks or months, they will germinate normally. Many plants that grow in cold winter regions produce dormant seeds. Such seeds germinate in the spring, often only after they have been exposed to cold, moist conditions.

Some seeds require special conditions in order to germinate. Such requirements often guarantee that the seed will germinate only when conditions are most favorable for seedling growth. Seeds of the pin cherry, for example, may remain dormant in forest soils for decades. When the soil is disturbed and the seeds are exposed to light, they will germinate. It is only under these conditions that a pin cherry seedling is likely to survive to become a tree. In desert regions the seeds of many plant species germinate only following very heavy rains, when sufficient moisture will be available for the plants to complete their life cycles. The seed coats of many such plants contain chemical inhibitors that prevent normal germination. Heavy rains remove these inhibitors, permitting germination. Some plants germinate and grow best in areas that have recently been burned by wildfire. The heat of the fire is the stimulus that breaks the seed's dormancy.

Water Movement
Most plants require large quantities of water in order to grow and reproduce. Water is crucial for photosynthesis; it is the liquid in which all other molecules, including food and minerals, are transported through the plant. In addition, water pressure in plant cells, called turgor, is necessary for maintaining cell growth and plant structure.

Large quantities of water move through a plant each day. In plants there is no "pump" comparable to the heart in many animals that serves to move liquids. Instead, plants depend on other processes to move water through their bodies.

One such process is diffusion is the movement of water molecules from areas of high concentration (areas with many water molecules) to areas of low concentration (areas with few water molecules). When diffusion occurs across a living membrane, it is called osmosis. Cell membranes are semipermeable-that is, some molecules, such as water, pass through them easily, while other molecules, such as sugars and some salts, do not. The cell's cytoplasm contains large amounts of sugars and salts. When cells come in contact with water, the concentration of water is greater on the outside of the cell than it is on the inside. The difference in concentrations causes water to diffuse into the cell. This is how water moves from the soil into the cells of plant roots.

As more and more water diffuses into the cell, the turgor of the cell increases. Cell turgor is very important to plant growth and structure. Turgor causes expansion of the cell wall and stimulates cell growth. It also keeps cells rigid and so enables the plant to remain upright. Loss of water, and consequently of turgor, from plant cells causes the entire plant to wilt. This can happen when the soil becomes too dry. It can also happen when too much fertilizer is added to soil, because fertilizer increases the concentration of minerals in the soil. This decreases the concentration of water molecules. When this happens, even though the soil feels moist, water diffuses out of the plant cells and the plant wilts.

How is water transported from the roots to other plant tissues? In the process known as transpiration, water is constantly evaporating from leaf cells-through the stomata of the leaves-and into the atmosphere. This is particularly true during the daytime when the stomata are open and the air is warm. It is estimated that a single oak tree gives off 90 to 100 gallons (341 to 379 liters) of water each day. Transpiration from the leaf cells lowers the concentration of water in these cells. This causes water to diffuse into the leaf cells from the cells of the xylem in the leaf veins. The loss of water from the xylem in the leaf veins lowers the concentration of water in the xylem tissues of the leaf. This causes water to move from the xylem of the stem into the leaves. Movement of water up the stem lowers the concentration of water molecules in the xylem of the root, causing water to be drawn from the root cells and so from the soil. Thus, water is pulled up the plant as a result of the transpiration from leaf surfaces.

Many plants that grow in hot, dry habitats have adaptations that decrease the rate of transpiration and so decrease the amount of water needed by the plants. For example, the cuticle, or outer layer, of the leaves of some plants is very thick. This waxy layer prevents excessive water loss from the leaves. Many succulent plants, such as the many species of cacti, are able to take up and store large quantities of water when it is abundant. They can then survive on this stored water during dry periods.

Photosynthesis
In the process of photosynthesis, green plants and some other organisms use sunlight to produce food and oxygen, without which humans and other animals could not live. Photosynthesis is carried out in specialized structures in the cytoplasm called chloroplasts. Chloroplasts contain chlorophyll and a vast array of proteins called enzymes. These enzymes are essential to the many reactions involved in photosynthesis.

Light energy is initially trapped by one of several chlorophyll pigments. Chlorophyll a is the most abundant of these pigments; its chemical formula is C ₅₅H ₇₂O ₅N ₄Mg. Chlorophyll b is also found in most green tissues; its formula is C ₅₅H ₇₀O ₆N ₄ Mg.

Carbon dioxide (CO ₂) from the air enters the leaf through the stomata. Water (H ₂O) travels to the leaf cells from the soil through the xylem in the roots and stems. The captured light energy is then used to break down the water into oxygen molecules (O ₂) and hydrogen atoms (H) and to join these hydrogen atoms to the carbon dioxide molecules to make sugar molecules (C ₆H ₁₂O ₆). Six molecules of oxygen are produced as a waste product and are released into the air through the stomata.

The sugar molecule formed in this process is glucose, a simple sugar. Enormous numbers of such molecules are produced in every chloroplast during each second of sunlight. Some of the glucose produced during photosynthesis is used by the plant in the process of respiration to generate other forms of energy ( see section on cellular respiration in this article). Much of the glucose, however, is converted into other molecules. Some is converted into the sugar sucrose, which is refined from sugarcane and sugar beets to make table sugar. By combining glucose molecules into long chains, or polymers, plant cells form starch and cellulose. Much of the stored food in plants is in the form of starch, and cellulose is the main component of plant cell walls. Sugars, starch, and cellulose belong to a general class of organic molecules called carbohydrates. In many plants, food is stored in the form of lipids, or fats -high-energy molecules that contain less oxygen than do carbohydrates.

Plants also need proteins and nucleic acids in order to survive. These compounds are made by combining carbohydrates with other elements, such as nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus, potassium, iron, calcium, and magnesium. The plant roots obtain these essential elements from the soil.

Cellular Respiration
To make cellulose, to build new cells, to store a reserve food supply, and to carry on all other activities necessary for living and growing, a plant needs energy. Energy is obtained by "burning" some of the glucose produced during photosynthesis. Just as coal releases energy when it burns in the presence of oxygen, so glucose and oxygen react together to release energy. The glucose is not burned in a fire, as is the case in a coal furnace, but through the chemical process known as cellular respiration. Cellular respiration is sometimes called aerobic respiration because it takes place in the presence of oxygen (the root aer- comes from the Greek word meaning "air"). Cellular respiration goes on day and night in every cell in a plant.

The chemical reactions involved in cellular respiration are the reverse of those involved in photosynthesis. In cellular respiration, oxygen enters the plant through the stomata of the leaves, through the roots (either from air spaces in the soil or in solution in water), and through the air openings in the stems. Glucose is broken down in the presence of oxygen, releasing chemical energy and producing carbon dioxide and water as waste products. The glucose is thus turned back into the same two substances from which it was made during photosynthesis, and the carbon dioxide and water vapor are released back into the air through the stomata. During the daytime, photosynthesis proceeds more rapidly than does cellular respiration. As a result, plants release more oxygen than carbon dioxide and water vapor. At night, when photosynthesis stops (because of the absence of light), only oxygen is taken in, and carbon dioxide is given off as a waste product.

Factors Influencing Plant Growth
Plant growth and development are consequences of three processes: cell division (the process called mitosis), cell enlargement, and cell differentiation. Cell division in the meristem tissues at the tips of roots and shoot tips is primarily responsible for increases in the length of these plant parts. Cell division in the cambium tissues of the roots and stems causes these plant parts to increase in diameter. Much plant growth also results from cell enlargement.

Plant cells can increase in size because their walls are elastic. As cells mature, they may then differentiate into specialized types of cells, such as fibers, tracheids, or sclerenchyma. The speed with which these processes of cell division, enlargement, and differentiation proceed is influenced by a number of factors, including environmental conditions, the presence of substances known as growth regulators, and heredity factors.

Environment and nutrients
The rate of growth of a plant is directly related to the amount of food that the plant is able to produce. Consequently, plants grow best in environments that are favorable for photosynthesis. The availability of water also affects plant growth because water pressure inside the plant's cells provides the force necessary for cell enlargement. Plants grow more slowly when water is in short supply. If the environment becomes too dry, the pressure in the plant's cells may become so low that the plant wilts. Plant growth is also influenced by other environmental factors, including temperature and the availability of mineral nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus.

Growth regulators
In addition to light, carbon dioxide, water, and minerals, plants need certain substances in order to grow. These substances are called growth regulators, or hormones. They are produced in plants in very small quantities.

The first growth regulators to be discovered were the auxins. The term auxin comes from a Greek word meaning "to increase." The role that auxins play in the growth of plants was first demonstrated between 1926 and 1928 by the Dutch plant physiologist Frits W. Went. They play a key role in the growth of roots, stems, and buds and in the development of fruit.

Auxins are produced at the tips of stems and roots. They diffuse back to the growing cells of leaves, stems, and roots and stimulate these cells to grow longer. This function of auxins was proved when botanists stopped the growth of oat seedlings by cutting off the tips of the plants. Growth started again when juice from the tips was rubbed into the cut ends of the plant.

Auxins play a central role in plant-growth patterns called tropisms. Phototropism (meaning "light turning") is the growth of plants toward light. If a plant is exposed to light coming from a certain direction, the plant will bend in the direction of the light. This response is the result of the diffusion of auxins to the unlighted side of the plant, speeding up growth on that side and slowing down growth on the lighted side.

Geotropism (meaning "earth turning") is the growth of plant parts toward or away from a source of gravity-stems grow up and roots grow down. If a stem is laying sidewise, the force of gravity causes more auxins to accumulate on the lower surface of the stem. This accelerates the growth of the cells on the lower surface, causing the stem to bend upward. In plant roots, the accumulation of auxins on the lower surfaces causes the roots to grow down.

Gardeners have long known that if they remove the terminal bud of a plant, the side buds develop and the plant becomes shorter and shrubbier. The reason is that the loss of the terminal bud stops the downward diffusion of auxins. As soon as the side buds develop enough auxins, they begin to grow and take over the task of checking the growth of the plant's lower buds. As long as the upper foliage and buds exposed to light are growing, the lower, shaded buds are arrested in their growth. The advantage to the plant is that if the upper buds and leaves are destroyed by frost, insects, or disease, the lower ones can then develop and take over the work of photosynthesis.

Other growth regulators in plants include gibberellins, cytokinins, abscisic acid, and ethylene. Gibberellins promote the growth of stems and play a role in flowering, fruit production, and the breaking of dormancy in seeds and buds. Cytokinins promote cell division in roots and shoots and delay leaf senescence, such as the yellowing of leaves. Abscisic acid is a growth inhibitor. It causes dormancy in seeds and buds and promotes the process that causes leaves to fall off a plant (abscission). Ethylene also promotes the abscission of leaves and promotes the ripening of a plant's fruit.

Photoperiodism
The rates of plant growth and cell differentiation vary from one season to the next. Plants are sensitive to the relative lengths of alternating periods of darkness and light, which change with the seasons. This property is called photoperiodism. Depending on the seasonal lengths of day and night needed for blossoming, plants are divided into spring-, summer-, and fall-blossoming groups. Skunk cabbage, for example, is one of the earliest blooming spring plants in the northern United States. It requires longer nights than does the wild rose, which blooms three months later. Barley, wheat, and many other small grains blossom in early summer when the nights are relatively short, whereas corn (maize), soybeans, and chrysanthemums bloom later, in midsummer and fall, when the nights are longer.

Plants actually "measure" the duration of darkness rather than of light. The photoperiodism of plants is caused by changes in a pigment called phytochrome (from two Greek words: phyton, meaning "plant," and chroma, meaning "color"). Phytochrome is a light-sensitive, blue-green pigment. It occurs in plant tissues in minute quantities-about one part in 10 million. The pigment acts as an enzyme -that is, it activates certain life processes without itself being used up. Phytochrome exists in two forms. In daylight the chemical is converted to its active form, and in darkness it is converted to its inactive form. When the pigment's active form reaches a certain level of concentration in the plant, it spurs changes in the plant's rate of growth.

Photoperiodism controls many plant growth processes other than flowering. Seed germination in many plants depends upon the amount and duration of light. The dormancy of trees and shrubs in winter is linked to the long nights of winter. In the laboratory, dormancy can be broken by shortening the period of darkness to which the plant is exposed. The buds then begin to develop.

Plants are vital parts of nearly all terrestrial ecosystems. In ecosystems, energy is cycled through food chains. Plants trap light energy during photosynthesis and store it as chemical energy. That energy is then obtained by organisms (herbivores) that eat plants and use the energy to grow and reproduce. Herbivores, in turn, are the primary energy source for carnivores-organisms that eat animals. (In aquatic ecosystems, algae play a role similar to that of plants in terrestrial ecosystems, since they too undergo photosynthesis and serve as a vital food source for other organisms.)

Plants play a crucial role in the nutrient cycles of ecosystems. They take in carbon dioxide from the air during photosynthesis and use it to build their own tissues. When vegetation is eaten, this organic carbon is used to build animal tissue and as a source of energy. The carbon is converted into carbon dioxide and released back into the air through respiration, the decay of animal wastes, and the decomposition of tissues after the animal's death. This exchange is called the carbon cycle.

Plants are also involved in mineral cycles. For example, plants get nitrogen compounds from the soil and combine them with carbohydrates to make proteins. Animals get the nitrogen compounds they need by eating plant proteins. The nitrogen returns to the soil as animal waste. Bacteria and fungi then turn the waste back into simple nitrogen compounds, which the plants can use once more.

Plants and the Development of Ecosystems
Ecosystems, like organisms, are born, develop, and mature. Disturbances, such as volcanic eruptions, fires, or wind storms, create new habitats and initiate a process of ecosystem development called succession. Plants play a significant role in succession.

The succession of ecosystems on sand dunes near the Great Lakes has been intensively studied by ecologists. Over the past 10,000 years, the water level of the Great Lakes has been slowly dropping. As this happens, living things gradually become established on sand dunes surrounding the lakes. Initially, sand dunes are a very inhospitable environment, and only the most hardy plants can grow there. The roots of these pioneer plants stabilize the sand, however, making it possible for other species to move onto the dunes. Eventually a dense growth of marram grass covers the dune. This grass produces an extensive root system that holds the dune in place, and organic matter from the grass's decaying roots and stems increases the fertility of the soil. This makes the environment more favorable for the growth of shrubs and pines. As the shrubs and pines grow, their shade slowly kills the marram grass, which is replaced with a dense pine forest. The pines do not reproduce in their own shade, but they create a habitat suitable for the establishment of broad-leaved trees such as oaks, maples, and elms. Thus, the pines are gradually replaced by these deciduous broad-leaved trees, which can reproduce in the forest environment. Once established, this type of forest will not change into another ecosystem form; this final form is called the climax. The entire process of ecosystem succession may take hundreds of years. The series of stages, from the pioneer to the climax, that make up a succession is called a sere, and each stage is called a seral stage.

Such successional patterns may occur on bare rock after glaciation or volcanic eruption, or in fields abandoned by farmers. Succession also occurs around the margins of small lakes. Here, such plants as sedges and cattails, which can tolerate the constant presence of water, grow along the lake's margins. Sediment and debris from these plants accumulate, gradually filling the lake from its edges. Other species less tolerant of water can then become established.

During succession the number of plant species gradually increases. Consequently the total amount of plant tissue produced each year also increases. This makes the environment hospitable for more animal species. As a result, as succession progresses, ecosystems tend to become more complex.

Plant succession is a major means by which ecosystems repair themselves after a disturbance. After a wildfire, for example, certain species of plants grow very quickly. Their rapid growth minimizes soil erosion and allows other plants to become established. In ecosystems such as the chaparral of the southwestern United States, the seeds of many of these pioneer plants lie dormant in the soil. The heat of a fire stimulates them to germinate. They grow quickly, produce dormant seeds, die, and are not seen again until the next fire.

Competition and Cooperation
Interactions between plants affect their distribution and abundance. When a major resource, such as water or nitrogen, is in short supply, plants may compete with each other for use of the resource. Species that can use the resource more effectively are likely to grow faster and therefore to be more abundant. Such competition affects plant succession. Competition is also apparent in such ecosystems as agricultural fields. Many weeds are better able to use water and minerals than are the crop plants with which they grow. Consequently, farmers must employ various methods of weed control in order to check the spread of weeds.

Some parasitic plants depend entirely on competition for their survival. The strangler fig, which grows in the tropics, provides an excellent example. Birds carry its seeds to the branches of a host tree. Here the seeds germinate and send down roots that surround the host tree. The fig produces abundant branches and leaves that eventually rob the host tree of sunlight. The host tree dies, and the mature fig tree is left standing alone.

Some plants produce roots that invade the tissues of a host plant. Parasites such as mistletoe, which are capable of photosynthesis, obtain only water and minerals from their host. Others, like the Indian pipe and pine drops, produce no chlorophyll and depend entirely on food drawn from their host.

Some plants compete by producing chemicals that are toxic to other plants. For example, very few plants can grow beneath a walnut tree, because organic chemicals produced by the tree prevent or stunt the growth of other plants.

Not all interactions between plants are destructive. Some plants provide habitats for other plants. In wet tropical zones, for example, the branches of trees support plants called epiphytes, or air plants. These plants are not parasites; they draw neither food nor water from the plants to which they cling. Their roots serve merely to hold them on the host tree, and the plants obtain moisture and minerals from rainwater. The Spanish moss that grows in the southeastern United States is an epiphyte. (It is actually not a moss at all, but a distant relative of the pineapple.)

Plants of Extreme Habitats
Plants that are able to survive hot, dry climates are called xerophytes. Xerophytes have a wide variety of adaptations to conserve water. For example, most plants that grow in deserts have thick waxy cuticles on the outer surfaces of their leaves to minimize water loss. In many desert plants, such as cacti, leaves may be absent altogether. In such plants photosynthesis is carried out in the outer tissues of the thick, fleshy stems. Many cacti have extensive shallow roots. When it rains, these roots can take up large quantities of water very quickly. This water is stored in the central core of the stems. Cacti can survive in the desert for years on the water gathered from a single rainfall.

Some desert plants survive desert drought by becoming dormant. The ocotillo of the southwestern United States and Mexico resembles a bunch of dead sticks most of the time. Following a rain, however, it quickly produces leaves that begin making food. Within a few weeks, the plant produces flowers. When its seeds mature, the ocotillo loses its leaves and becomes dormant again.

Many annual desert plants germinate only after heavy rain. They quickly grow, flower, and produce seeds. The parent plant then dies and the seeds are deposited in the soil. These seeds are very resistant to heat and drought and remain dormant in the soil until the next heavy rain.

Many plants cannot survive in habitats that have a great deal of water. When the soil is saturated with water, oxygen is unavailable to plant roots. Plants that grow in very wet habitats are called hydrophytes. They often have spongy stem tissue containing air channels that extend down into the roots. Oxygen produced during photosynthesis and taken from the air is transported down these channels to the roots. The roots of many hydrophytes are also able to respire anaerobically, or without oxygen.

Plants that grow in the arctic or on high mountain slopes must be able to endure severe cold and very short growing seasons. These plants have specialized cell structures that prevent damage from ice-crystal formation. In addition, many of these species are able to carry out life processes at unusually cold temperatures. Many arctic grasses, for example, photosynthesize best at temperatures very near the freezing point.

Nitrogen-Fixing Plants
Of all the mineral nutrients in the soil, nitrogen is generally the most difficult for plants to acquire. Even though nitrogen is the most abundant element in the air, most organisms are unable to obtain the nitrogen they need from the air. Most plants depend on mineral forms of nitrogen in the soil, and land animals ultimately depend on organic nitrogen produced by plants.

Nitrogen-fixing plants are able to take atmospheric nitrogen directly into their roots because of an alliance they have with certain bacteria. These bacteria are found in specialized nodules on the plants' roots. The bacteria take nitrogen gas from the air, convert it to organic forms of nitrogen, and make it available to their host plant. In return, the host plant provides the bacteria with food that they are unable to manufacture for themselves. This is an example of one of the many forms of mutualism, or mutually beneficial partnerships found in nature ( see symbiosis).

Nitrogen-fixing plants include members of the legume family (peas, beans, and their relatives), alders, and other shrubs. Many of these plants are significant sources of protein in the human diet. Some also play a part in succession. For example, nitrogen-fixing shrubs grow in soils formed from volcanic lavas. They enrich the soil with nitrogen, making it possible for other species to establish themselves.

Insect-Eating Plants
A number of plants are capable of eating small animals, especially insects. These plants are called insectivorous plants. Examples include the Venus's-flytrap, pitcher plants, sundews, and bladderworts. These unusual plants are most often found in moist and nutrient-poor habitats, such as bogs. The insects that the plants trap are not a major source of organic food-rather, they provide mineral nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus in these infertile habitats.

Insectivorous plants employ a variety of mechanisms to catch their prey. The sundew has sticky glands located on the ends of hairs on its leaves. Insects become stuck and eventually entangled in these hairs and are then digested by chemicals released from the leaf. Pitcher plants have tubular leaves that produce chemicals attractive to insects. Once the insect has crawled inside the leaf, it is unable to escape. The Venus's-flytrap has perhaps the most elaborate mechanism for catching insects. Its leaves form a snap-trap that is triggered when an insect touches hairs on the leaf's surface. The leaf quickly folds around and traps the insect.

How Plants Pass the Winter
In summer, plants make and store food in their roots, stems, or seeds. In winter, they rest. Plants pass the winter in various ways. Annuals flower in the same season that they are planted. Then, transferring all their reserve food to their seeds, the plants wither and die. Inside the protective seed covering, the embryonic plant lies dormant until the moisture and warmth of spring stimulate its growth.

Biennials form only leaves and buds during the first season and store food in their underground roots. The upper parts die in the winter. During the following season the reserve food from the roots is used to make new stems, which bear flowers and seeds. In the second winter the plants die. Their seeds produce a new generation in the spring. Examples of such plants include beets, turnips, parsnips, carrots, and many common flowers.

Many biennial plants lose their stems and upper leaves in the winter but keep their green basal leaves. The leaves grow in beautifully patterned rosettes. They lie flat on the ground, spread out around an underground taproot. The function of such rosettes may be to supply the root with water. The leaves are slightly grooved, and rainwater pours from the outside and top of the cluster to the center and so down to the root.

Perennials go on living from year to year. In cold climates they store food in their roots or stems and rest during the winter. In warm climates they simply continue growing. Trees and shrubs are typical perennials. They shed their leaves and for the winter form an insulating jacket of waxy scales on the buds from which new growth will appear the next year.

As the days grow shorter and the nights grow longer and colder, the food substances stored in the leaves of perennial plants flow back into the twigs, branches, and trunk. The gradual decrease in temperature causes changes in the plant tissues that make them more resistant to cold. This preparation for the upcoming winter months is called hardening. When the chlorophyll decomposes chemically and becomes colorless, the leaves take on their autumn colors of yellow, red, and orange. These colors are caused by the presence of pigments other than chlorophyll. Many of them are always present, but during the summer there is so much more chlorophyll that these colors are masked.

While these color changes occur, a thick, corky skin called an abscission, or separation, layer grows between the stem of the leaf and the branch. After this layer has formed, it splits in two. Half of the layer goes with the leaf when it drops off; the other half covers the scar on the branch and seals the tissues against insects and moisture loss. Oak leaves fall very late in the year because the abscission layers are not perfectly formed earlier in the season. In tropical ecosystems, where there is a change from wet to dry seasons, many trees drop their leaves during the dry season. This prevents the trees from losing moisture through evaporation from the leaves.

The winter study of twigs can be quite instructive. It is possible to identify trees and shrubs by their twigs alone, for no two kinds of twigs have exactly the same arrangement of buds and leaf scars. The buds are tiny, living plant parts that develop into leaves or flower clusters. They are covered with overlapping, waxy bud scales. At the top of the stem is the terminal bud. The stem grows in length from the terminal bud. This bud may or may not produce flowers. New branches grow from the lateral, or side, buds.

Bud scales are modified leaves. In the spring, as they expand in response to the warmth and rain, they may take on soft colors, such as the yellow and rose of the hickory and horse chestnut scales. The scales of sumac do not fall off but develop into true leaves. The colored "petals" of the flowering dogwood are actually the expanded scales of the bud. The true flower is a small cluster inside this leaf, which is called a bract.

Norman L. Christensen

Angier, Bradford. Field Guide to Medicinal Wild Plants (Stackpole, 2000).Baker, Margaret. Discovering the Folklore of Plants, 3rd ed. (Shire, 1996).Barbour, M.G., and others. Terrestrial Plant Ecology, 3rd ed. (Benjamin Cummings, 1999).Bold, H.C., and others. Morphology of Plants and Fungi, 5th ed. (Harper, 1987).Cork, Barbara. Mysteries and Marvels of Plant Life (EDC, 1989).Dowden, A.O. From Flower to Fruit (Ticknor & Fields, 1994).Elliott, Douglas. Wild Roots (Healing Arts, 1995).Freethy, Ron. From Agar to Zenry: A Book of Plant Uses, Names and Folklore (Longwood, 1985).Howell, Laura, and others. World of Plants (Scholastic, 2003).Huxley, Anthony. Green Inheritance: The WWF Book of Plants (Univ. of Calif. Press, 2005).Huxley, Anthony. Plant and Planet (Penguin, 1987).Janulewicz, Mike. Plants (Gloucester Press, 1984).Mabey, Richard. Oak and Company (Greenwillow, 1983).Margulis, Lynn, and others. Diversity of Life: The Illustrated Guide to the Five Kingdoms (Jones and Bartlett, 1999).Pringle, Laurence. Being a Plant (Crowell, 1983).Rahn, J.E. Plants That Changed History; More Plants That Changed History (Macmillan, 1982; 1985).Raven, P.H., and others. Biology of Plants, 7th ed. (Freeman, 2005).Salisbury, F.B., and Ross, C.W. Plant Physiology, 4th ed. (Wadsworth, 1992).Selsam, M.E. The Plants We Eat, rev. ed. (Morrow, 1981).Scott, Jane. Botany in the Field: An Introduction to Plant Communities for the Amateur Naturalist (Prentice, 1984).Spellenberg, Richard. National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Wildflowers: Western Region (Knopf, 2004).Thieret, J.W., and others. National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Wildflowers: Eastern Region (Knopf, 2004).

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Wherever there is sunlight, air, and soil, plants can be found. On the northernmost coast of Greenland the Arctic poppy peeps out from beneath the ice. Mosses and tussock...

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Authors Andrea M. Heard, James O. Sickman, Linda S. Mutch

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What Is the Nitrogen Cycle and Why Is It Key to Life?

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Nitrogen, the most abundant element in our atmosphere, is crucial to life. Nitrogen is found in soils and plants, in the water we drink, and in the air we breathe. It is also essential to life: a key building block of DNA, which determines our genetics, is essential to plant growth, and therefore ne…

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Hanging Plants

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https://www.mestergronn.no/mg/blomstertips-pd/gronne-planter/slik-steller-du-schefflera.html

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Schefflera, eller paraplyplante, er en enkel plante å lykkes med. Den kan klare seg i lange perioder uten stell og tilsyn. Med andre ord, en perfekt plante for den glemske.

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Moffatt's Flower Company - Christchurch Florist and Plant Shop

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Native to Mexico, the is an exotic indoor houseplant with large and leathery leaves. Young plants have leaves that are smaller with no lobes (holes), but as they mature the holes will become apparent. Also known as the "fruit salad plant", because the Mexican breadfruit that this plant produces tastes like exotic fruits.

Monstera Deliciosas grow upright but will topple over if they get too heavy. We recommend using a natural pole that your Monstera can grip to as the plant grows. With the correct support structure it can grow and to its maximum potential height, which is about 2.5 metres! Monstera's are very easy-care house plants requiring minimal maintenance. In addition they have very thick stalks making propagation easy. But like any other houseplant, a little knowledge can go a long way. Let's discuss the basics...

How often should you water Monstera's?

You should water your Monstera when the top 2-3cm of soil has dried out. When watering, give your plant a thorough soaking, but ensure not to leave your Monstera sitting in any water that has accumulated in the saucer. This may lead to root rot.

Under watering - You will notice the leaves turning yellow and droopy.

Over watering - You will notice a combination of yellow and brown on the leaves.

How much light does a Monstera need?

The placement of your Monstera is one of the most important factors. Try to find a spot that receives filtered indirect but bright light. If you place this plant in full sunlight it will struggle to cope with the hot temperatures and the leaves may become brown and sunburnt. Equally if you place your plant in full shade without any light this may stunt its growth!

Do Monstera's like to be Misted?

While this plant will thrive in various environments you may want to increase the humidity levels by misting a few times a week. Especially in Summer as temperatures increase. Misting may help to enhance the growth rate of your Monstera as it will replicate the tropical atmosphere it has originated from.

How to fertilize Monstera' s

Monsteras will benefit with a small dosage of fertilisation once a month through spring and Summer. Do not fertilise in the Winter as this is when the plant is dormant and needs time to rest during this cooler period. Over-fertilising can cause the soil to spoil.

How to propagate Monstera's

The thick long stalks on this plant make it very easy to propagate Simply cut a stem that has several nodes or leaves and place it in water. We recommend using a large clear jar so that you can check the growth rate. Place this in a warm and bright location and remember to regularly change the water to keep it fresh.

Once the roots are prominent and abundant the stem is ready to be re-potted! The time for root-growth is generally around 2-3 weeks so be patient with the process and trust that you will get a beautiful new house plant at the end of it.

How to clean your Monstera

Dust build-up on the leaves of your Monstera may stunt the growth.Be sure to regularly clean your plant. To ensure optimal plant health fill a spray bottle with water, a teaspoon of neem oil, and a drop of dishwashing liquid. Once you start to notice dust building up wipe dust off with your home-made solution and a clean cloth.

Are Monstera's Toxic?

The leaves of this house plant are mildly toxic and can result in a rash around the mouth if considerable amounts are ingested. If you have young children or untrained pets in your home, you may want to opt for a smaller version that you can put out of reach until the curiosity of your little ones has worn off. On the other hand, the ripe fruit that often grows on Monstera's is delicious and safe to eat. We had an flowering Monstera at Moffatt's Flower Company a few years ago and got to try the fruit - it smelt devine and tasted like pineapple!

1. Only water your Monstera when the soil has dried out

2. Place your Monstera in bright indirect light

3. Mist regularly (depending on the season) to encourage growth

4. Keep out of reach of children and animals

5. Clean regularly with a natural solution to keep the dust away

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Water your Monstera when the top 2-3cm of soil have dried out. Place in bright, indirect light - full sunlight will cause the leaves to burn. Mist with water a few times a week in Summer and once a week in Winter. Do not fertilize in the Winter.

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We independently select these products-if you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. All prices were accurate at the time of publishing.

Tradescantia plants are much loved for their variegated leaves, deep purple color (although there are also green varieties!) and for how extremely easy they are to propagate. Tradescantia. make a lovely, understated statement in outdoor garden beds or planters, and are perhaps even more striking indoors when allowed to trail in hanging baskets. Here's how to make sure they thrive and put their best foot forward.

Tradescantia likes bright, indirect light. They need a good amount of light; if they don't get it, you'll notice that their leaf markings begin to fade. Direct sun, however, will scorch their leaves (with the exception being the purple queen variety, which loves full sun).

Tradescantia thrives in temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees, so they do well in typical indoor temperatures. Outdoors, they prefer a mild climate that doesn't drop below 50 degrees. Frost will kill them.

Tradescantia are not picky about their soil and will grow just fine in all-purpose soil. However, because they like to stay moist, you might consider mixing a moisture retainer such as vermiculite or peat moss in with the soil.

Tradescantia loves moisture. Don't ever let your plant get too dry, especially in winter. To keep soil evenly moist, a regular watering schedule is best. Water until water drains through the bottom of the pot, taking care that your plant won't sit in water.

Tradescantia thrives in humidity, and they love regular misting. Leaf tips will turn brown without adequate humidity. Placing the plant on a tray of pebbles in water is one way to ensure ambient moisture.

Fertilizing your Tradescantia isn't absolutely necessary, but they will reward you with better growth if you do feed them. Fertilize only in the spring and summer with a half-strength liquid fertilizer monthly or a controlled-release fertilizer.

Due to the vining nature they're named for, Tradescantia needs regular pruning to maintain a pleasing, bushy appearance. Try pinching back about a fourth of the plant to encourage branching and increase fullness.

A special note: No matter how well you care for your Tradescantia, they tend to get dry and leggy after about a year or so. But the plants are so easy to propagate that keeping your plant "going" is just a matter of planting cuttings.

Tradescantia is one of the types of plants that can be passed from friend to friend from pinched-off leaf cuttings, producing full-blown, trailing houseplants for a whole host of people. Propagation is also an easy and effective way to "refresh" your Tradescantia when it begins to show its age.

There are a few ways to propagate your Tradescantia. You may simply pinch a branch or a few branches and submerge the cuttings in fresh soil. With regular watering, you'll begin to see new growth shortly.

You can also root your cuttings in water if you prefer. Alternately, you can lay a longer stem of an inch plant across the soil, and it will root where the nodes touch the soil. Want more plant care tips? Check out our guide here.

Tradescantia is commonly found in nurseries, large hardware stores, and online.

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Tradescantia Might Just Be The Perfect Hanging Plant

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Its striking variegated leaves look beautiful cascading over the edge of both indoor and outdoor planters.

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Tradescantia Nanouk, also known as Fantasy Venice, is the trending plant right now on Instagram because of its pretty bright green, pink & purple, fuzzy-ish leaves growing on chunky stems. It's not like any other Tradescantia because it's a new variety grown by cross-pollinating two selected seedlings of Tradescantia albiflora in the Netherlands in 2012. Tradescantia plants originated in Central America, Mexico, and South America, but Tradescantia Nanouk originated in Sappemeer, The Netherlands. While it's the new "it" plant, it's not a difficult plant. In fact, it's one of the easiest houseplants to care for, which makes it a great choice for beginners!

Fun Fact: Tradescantia Nanouk is a patented plant developed in the Netherlands to create new hardy and vigorous Tradescantia plants with beautiful flower coloration and high-grade performance.

Tradescantia Nanouk is described as "rare" houseplants because they're harder to find in some areas, but this is not entirely true since you can actually see them in plant shops. Our advice is to be careful when sellers describe Tradescantia Nanouk as "rare" because they use that tactic to drive up the price. A reasonable price for Tradescantia Nanouk would be around $15 to $30. It's also best to check your local garden center and do your own research before purchasing it.

OK, the best way to grow your houseplant collection for free is to propagate cuttings. Pruning your Tradescantia Nanouk is a great way to keep it looking its best. If you're a beginner, we recommend that you add cuttings back into the same container or planter to create a fuller container or planter. Another thing you should learn about Tradescantia Nanouk is it's a fast grower! That means you will need to re-pot it multiple times during the growing season. One of the signs that you need to re-pot your Tradescantia Nanouk is if the roots are circling the bottom of the pot or growing out of the drainage holes.

Here's everything you need to know on how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk.

CREDIT: HIRT'S GARDENS

Tradescantia Nanouk Care Tips

Caring for your Tradescantia Nanouk is pretty easy that even a new plant parent can do it. Follow our guide on how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk, from sunlight requirement to common problems and its solutions.

Sunlight

First, on our list on how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk is to provide it with bright, indirect sunlight or full sun since this leads to greater flower production.

Common Problem: If the color of the leaves of your Tradescantia Nanouk is fading, this could mean that it's getting too little sun.

Solution: Place your Tradescantia Nanouk near a sunny window or in a steamy bathroom. If your Tradescantia Nanouk isn't getting enough light, it will become leggy. The leaves will also be a bit smaller with much more green and less variegation.

Water

Next on our list on how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk is to water it when the top inch of the soil is dry. Usually, once a week is enough. Plus, it depends on the type of light your plant is receiving. It's important to keep the soil moist, but avoid overwatering it since it can lead to root rot.

Common Problem: If your Tradescantia Nanouk looks dull and unhealthy, it could be from too much water.

Solution: One of the most common mistakes of beginners or new plant parents is giving the plant too much water. Your Tradescantia Nanouk should only be watered once a week. Keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Some houseplants can be sensitive to salts in tap water, so it's best to use distilled water or a water filtration system. However, if this is not possible, leave the water in an open container overnight.

Humidity & Temperature

Adding to our list on how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk is to put it in a room with a bit more humidity since it will grow best in a humid environment. In case you want to increase the humidity, we suggest that you mist it often, place it near a humidifier, or use a pebble tray.

Tradescantia Nanouk prefers room temperature, between 75°F during the day and around 55°F during the night.

Toxicity

Tradescantia Nanouk is considered poisonous or toxic to kids, people, and pets. Keep pets away from the sap as it can cause dermatitis and stomach upset if ingested.

Food

Another on our list on how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk is to feed it once or twice a month with houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. Avoid over-fertilization since it can lead to brown leaf tips. Make sure the soil is damp before applying fertilizer.

It's important to follow the prescribed amount of fertilizer and schedule to avoid fertilizer burn or plant burn.

Pests & Other Problems

Overwatering is the main problem of Tradescantia Nanouk as it can cause fungal infections and root rot, which may also lead to trouble with fungus gnats. Always check if the soil is soggy. If it is, allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again.

We also recommend trimming away any damaged or rotten leaves and stems. On the other side, if you allow your Tradescantia Nanouk to become too dry, it will attract spider mites. It's best to increase humidity levels and to maintain a correct watering schedule.

If your Tradescantia Nanouk is infested with spider mites, give your plant a vigorous showering with fresh water. Then mist it with a 50-50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water. Repeat the misting several times to kill off all the spider mites and their eggs.

That's a wrap on how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk. If you're looking for a new plant to add to your collection, consider getting a Tradescantia Nanouk. It's a tough, pretty plant, which makes it a great decor for your home office or living room.

Grow your plant knowledge. Check out our Plant Care blog to learn more about different houseplants and tips on how to keep your plants alive and healthy.

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How to Care for Your Tradescantia Nanouk

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Green, pink, and white stripes on large, lush leaves with cute little white and yellow flowers that grow from pink buds. Here's how to care for your Tradescantia Nanouk, the new must-have indoor plant for the plant lover.

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Ildtopp er en av de mest hardføre blomstene vi har. Det betyr at du kan glemme eller ignorere den uten at den nødvendigvis dør. Den kan faktisk til og med ha det veldig godt under slike forhold. Ildtopp er ettårig, men den blomstrer lenge. Den kan ikke overvintre ute, og må tas inn i god tid før frosten kommer.

Stell av ildtopp

Vanning
Ildtopp trives ikke med å stå i våt jord, og det er derfor viktig at du ikke vanner for ofte, og at jorden får tørke ut før du vanner på nytt. Gjennom sine overflaterøtter tar den raskt opp vann, dvs. at den fyller opp lagrene raskt når den vannes.

Jord
Ildtopp foretrekker vanlig plantejord eller premiumjord. Ildtopp som plantes ute om sommeren, foretrekker moldrik og godt drenert jord, som med fordel kan være iblandet sand.

Plassering
At ildtopp elsker sol og varme er ingen hemmelighet - den foretrekker å stå på et lyst sted der luften samtidig er tørr.

Næring
Det kan imidlertid være lurt å gi ildtopp litt ekstra flytende plantenæring i de varmeste månedene.

Ildtopp - en herdig skjønnhet hele året

Ofte snakker man om planter som er veldig hardføre og kan klare seg gjennom tørre perioder og mye solskinn, men ildtopp er noe helt for seg selv når det gjelder nettopp denne egenskapen. Fordi det er en sukkulent, dvs. en plante som suger opp vann og lagrer det i de tykke blomsterbladene, bryr ikke planten seg om at man glemmer å vanne den når man reiser bort - den klarer seg likevel.

Hvis ildtopp får godt stell, foldes knoppene ut litt etter litt, og den står lenge i full blomst. Blomstenes utseende avhenger av hvilken sort man velger, og ildtopp fås i et bredt fargespekter og kan til og med ha blandede farger.

Fordi ildtopp er lettstelt, er det en plante som passer perfekt for deg som vil skape et frodig og vakkert inntrykk i hjemmet, men som kanskje ikke har den helt store interessen for stell av planter.

Korte fakta ildtopp

Lagrer vann i de tykke bladene, noe som gjør at den overlever bedre.

En plante som er skånsom for allergikere.

Foretrekker sterk sol og tørre perioder. Trives både alene og ute i bed sammen med andre planter.

Blomstrer hele året.

Les mer

Tørkemotstandige planter, for deg som ikke vil vanne så ofte >>
Vanning av dine inneplanter - slik lykkes du >>

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Ildtopp (Kalanchoe) - fakta og råd om stell | Planteguide fra Plantasjen

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Ildtopp er en vakker og lettstelt blomst som trives godt innendørs i vinterhalvåret, men også utendørs om sommeren. Ildtopp stammer fra Madagaskar og har tykke, små blader og tette klaser med blomster i rosa, gult, oransje, rødt, hvitt eller forskjellige fargenyanser.

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Ildtopp Rose Flower - Flaming Katy Kalanchoe

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Ildtopp Rose Flower - Flaming Katy Kalanchoe

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Botanical Name: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana

Flaming Katy is one of the few succulents grown just for its blooms. Bright clusters of tiny red, orange, yellow, white, purple or pink flowers last several weeks. Flowers may be single or double.

Kalanchoe plant has glossy, green leaves with scalloped edges that can become red-tinged when exposed to full sun. Although the thick leaves seem sturdy, they are actually quite brittle. Handle flaming katy with care because the leaf tips easily break off.

When you're buying a Kalanchoe plant, choose one with bright, fresh-looking leaves and plenty of unopened buds -- sure signs of a healthy plant.

Kalanchoe care is easy -- providing you can give Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plenty of sunlight and the right amount of water. Resist the temptation to overwater Kalanchoe. Like other succulent plants, it stores water in its thick, fleshy leaves and can suffer from root rot if it is overwatered.

Caring for Kalanchoe Plant - Problems and Solutions

Deadhead spent blooms. You'll get the most flowers by deadheading during the flowering season. Cut off flower stems after the blooms have faded to encourage more blooms. Cut them at the base of the plant to keep the plant looking its best.

Wondering whether to repot...or not? It's not necessary. Never repot a plant while it's blooming because it stresses the plant and may cause its flowers and flower buds to fall off. If you want to cover up a plain nursery pot, just slip it into a cachepot -- a decorative pot without drainage holes. It's a good idea to put small rocks in the bottom of the cachepot to keep the inner pot above drainage water.

Wilted leaves? You overwatered. If you've been watering regularly and the leaves are soft and limp, the plant is likely suffering from root rot. Slip the plant out of the pot and take a peek at its roots. Are they soft and mushy? If so, you can toss out the plant -- it likely won't recover. If flaming katy is wilting for no apparent reason, it may be infested with root mealybugs. (See "Something bugging your plant?" below).

Yellow, wrinkled leaves are caused by dry soil. Cut off any affected leaves. Water thoroughly to ensure all roots are moistened, then empty drainage tray.

Something bugging your plant? Few pests bother flaming katy. Mealybugs are the most common invaders. Watch for white, fuzzy patches near the leaf axils and under the leaves. Root mealybugs could be the cause of a wilted plant. Ease the plant out of its pot and inspect the roots for these pests. Treat any infestation as soon as you see them to prevent pests from invading your other indoor plants. If it's badly infested, get rid of it. It's easier to replace your plant.

Although this compact, little house plant is easy to grow, getting it to re-bloom can be a challenge.

How to Get Kalanchoe Plant to Bloom Again

Long, sunny days followed by shorter hours of daylight are needed to set flower buds.

If you move the plant outside for the summer, keep it in the shade. Morning sun is fine.

Beginning in early October, keep the plant in a dark room for 14 hours each night for 2 weeks, and give it moderate light during the day.

Water it minimally and don't fertilize during this time. Shriveled, yellow leaves are a sign that it's too dry.

Flower buds will appear in about 6-8 weeks. Then you can resume with normal care. Flowering may be erratic, but the foliage will still be attractive.

Flaming Katy Plant Care Tips

Origin: Madagascar

Height: 8-15 inches (20-38 cm)

Light: Bright light to full sun.

Water: Keep the soil mix barely moist. Take care not to overwater Kalanchoe, which will cause leaves to wilt and may lead to root rot. Use a pot with drainage holes; water thoroughly, then allow the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering. Don't allow the soil to dry out completely, however. Dry soil will cause the leaves to shrivel and turn yellow. Water sparingly after it stops flowering.

Humidity: Average room (around 40% relative humidity).

Temperature: Average room temperatures 65-80°F/18-27°C

Soil: 2 parts all-purpose potting mix and 1 part horticultural sand or perlite.

Fertilizer: Feed monthly from late spring to early fall with balanced water-soluble fertilizer.

Propagation: Take stem cuttings in late spring.

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Flaming Katy: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana Indoor Plant Care

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Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) is one of the few succulents grown just for its blooms. Get Kalanchoe plant care for potting, fertilizing, watering.

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Ficus 101: How to Care for Ficuses | Bloomscape

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Learn how to care for Ficus plants. With guides for watering, lighting, humidity, and more, we have the care info you need to grow healthy indoor plants.

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With over 150 species to choose from, Echeveria (often called Hens and Chicks) are among the most popular succulents, thanks to their delightful rosettes that can reach up to 2 to 6-inches across on short stems with striking water-storing leaves.

Hailing from parts of Central America, South America, and Mexico, Echeveria offer a variety of colors, sizes, and leaf shapes. Most can produce stunning bell-shaped flowers that will look beautiful in just about any living space. Just make sure to handle them with care, as they have leaves that easily break off. Whether you have a green thumb or not (especially if you are a busy office worker or a novice gardener), Echeveria are low-maintenance and can still survive after periods of neglect.

General Care

1. Light Exposure

These astounding plants are easily recognizable due to their compact rosette and plump, charming leaves, which may be flushed with red or pink color and may even seem to glow under the right lighting conditions. So if you want to have a beautiful Echeveria all year round, provide them with plenty of bright, indirect light.

If grown indoors, place your Echeveria where it can receive a lot of sunlight. Ideally, the best spot to display them is near a south or west-facing window, as these two spots often offer more light than north or east-facing windows. But if this isn't an option, just put them near a window that gets the most light. You can also consider placing them under a desk or table lamp that is on throughout the day. This should prevent the plant from opening up its rosette and stretching out of form due to lack of light.

Echeverias can be grown outdoors as well, especially during the summer. Just make sure to avoid sudden changes in light exposure and the intense afternoon sun, as these can be too harsh for them, resulting in their leaves getting sunburned.

In general, Echeverias should get a minimum of 6 hours of bright light during Winter and at least 8 to 12 hours a day during Spring and Summer. This should help them keep their rosette compact, and at the same time, show their true leaf color.
Additional Tip: Succulents tend to grow toward the light source. So to keep your Echeveria symmetrical, it is recommended to turn the pot at least once or twice a week. If your Echeveria begins to stretch, just continue growing it, then start fresh in the Spring by simply cutting the top and rooting it as a new rosette.
2. Watering

Watering Echeveria varies depending on the temperature and conditions of the plant's surroundings. To give you a rough guide, from Spring to Summer, keep the potting mix of your Echeveria slightly moist, which can be achieved by giving them a deep and regular watering, allowing the soil to get almost dry in between.

From late Fall to Winter, on the other hand, Echeverias shouldn't be kept soaking wet for too long, so water them less sparingly and let their soil dry out completely before giving them another drink.

Ideally, Echeverias can be watered once every week to ten days. However, this still depends on the size of your plant and pot, so it's advisable to always check the soil first before watering to make sure. You can always use a moisture meter or your finger to feel the level of dryness of the plant's soil.

Keep in mind that poor watering habits are the top reason you'll encounter problems with this plant, so make sure to keep an eye on them and make adjustments whenever it's necessary.

3. Temperature

Most Echeverias are non-hardy succulents and can't survive cold temperatures. They prefer temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit and don't like it when it drops below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

For that reason, these tender succulent can be grown worry-free outdoors in USDA&nbsp and&nbsp . In other zones, we highly recommend growing your Echeveria as a houseplant, especially during the cold months, and just gradually move them outdoors once the threat of frost has passed.

4. Soil

Just like with all other succulents, Echeverias also need well-drained soil that dries out quickly to help prevent moisture from rotting the roots. You can either use a quality potting mix intended for Cactus and Succulents or&nbsp create your own blend of soil and perlite.

Echeveria rarely needs to be fertilized. But if you want to give them some occasional feeding, do this at the beginning of spring by using a slow-release fertilizer or a water-soluble mixed about half strength and used less often than recommended.

1. Potting

Getting the right pot for your Echeveria is also a crucial part of taking care of them. Remember, the bigger pots contain greater soil volume. Meaning, it would hold more moisture compared to smaller ones, risking your Echeveria plant of root rot.

Ideally, the size of your pot should be 5 to 10% bigger than the size of your Echeveria at the surface. So if you have an Echeveria that's 4-inches wide, the best pot for it will be the one that's around 4.5-inches in diameter or just a bit bigger than your plant's rosette.

For the type of pot, the most recommended for Echeveria is&nbsp Terracotta ones with ample drainage. They have porous walls that will allow excess moisture to escape, preventing the plant to sit in wet soil for too long. Furthermore, the unglazed interior of Terracotta pots will give the roots of your Echeveria something to cling to.

2. Repotting

When&nbsp repotting your Echeveria , make sure that you do so right before its growing season, so the succulent has time to adjust to its new home. Also, make sure your new pot is at least 10% larger than your previous pot so it has room to grow. When repotting, always check for signs of root rot or matted roots. Prune away any rotting or damaged roots if you have to!

There are many ways to propagate Echeveria, but the simplest one is through leaf propagation. To do this, you will either need to collect leaves that have just fallen from your plant or snip a leaf off its rosette by gently moving it from side to side until it detaches.

Once you have the leaves to propagate, lay them on a tray away from direct sunlight. After a few weeks, a plantlet with roots will appear at the end of the leaves. At this point, you can stick their roots in the soil and give them a mist every few days. Eventually, the original leaves should dry up, leaving the newly formed ones behind.

Blooming

Although they're most well-known for their shape, Echeveria succulents have beautiful, bell-shaped flowers that bloom for about two weeks during the growing season. These flowers are often pink or orange and contrast the cool tones of the leaves perfectly. To encourage your succulents to bloom, place them under bright sunlight and in warm temperatures. If you can mimic their natural environment, you're good! Echeveria blooms are a good sign - you don't need to worry if you see one sprouting out of your plant. If you don't want your Echeveria to bloom, simply trim the flower stem off at its base with a pair of clean, sharp scissors.

The best part about Echeveria (aside from their hardiness and versatility) is that they're great for homes with pets! Echeveria aren't toxic to cats, dogs, horses, livestock, or humans, making them an ideal starter succulent for anyone who wants to add some green into their furry household. Just because they aren't toxic, however, doesn't mean they want to be eaten! It's always best to keep your succulents out of reach from nosy animals to ensure they stay happy and healthy. &nbsp
The best part about Echeveria is that they're great for homes with pets!
Common Pests and Problems

Just like any other succulent, Echeveria are susceptible to your standard fare of pests and potential illnesses, including mealybugs, spider mites, root rot, aphids, scale, and mold. However, these plants are especially susceptible to mold growth and root rot if watered improperly. Always make sure to water your Echeveria with a water bottle or through bottom watering, and avoid getting the leaves wet just to be safe.

If you've fallen in love with our selection of Echeveria, why not order one to your door or share this with a friend?
Watch how how to grow and care for Echeveria plant in the video below:
SEE MORE ABOUT 6 BLUE SUCCULENTS THAT YOU NEED IN YOUR GARDEN
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And get a free plant when your friends make an order.&nbsp Sign up here!

Learn more about how to nurture and enjoy many gorgeous succulents and clever decoration tips with our newsletter. Let's&nbsp !

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How to Grow and Care for Echeveria Succulent | Succulents Box®

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With over 150 species to choose from, Echeveria (often called Hens and Chicks) are among the most popular succulents, thanks to their delightful rosettes that can reach up to 2 to 6-inches across on short stems with striking water-storing leaves.

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Echeveria Care

Native to parts of Central America, South America, and Mexico, echeveria are succulents and members of the Crassulaceae family. Their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents, which means they all have fleshy, thickened leaves and stems that store water.

They are well-suited to bright, dry environments and appreciate periods of neglect, making echeverias ideal houseplants whether or not you have a green thumb. Never let water sit in the rosette, as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Also, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows; they provide a haven for pests.

Echeverias require a substantial amount of light to thrive. They need at least four to five hours of bright, direct sunlight daily-ideally six. If echeverias do not receive full sun, they will become elongated and leggy, and it is unlikely they will flower. Move your echeveria outdoors during the summer months to help it flourish. If you move your plant outside after overwintering indoors, harden off the plant, giving it a gradual transition. Intense afternoon sunlight can cause sunburn, so place your plant where it receives a bit of shade when the sun is strongest.

Echeverias require a well-draining, porous growing medium to keep excess moisture away from the roots. Standard cactus potting mixes, which can be found at most nurseries and garden centers, are sufficient for echeverias. You can create a cactus mix by combining three parts of regular potting soil with two parts of coarse sand and one part of perlite. Echeverias make ideal houseplants and grow well in garden beds, as long as the soil is well drained, and the pH is 6.0 or slightly acidic.

Watering is the most critical aspect of proper echeveria care. Echeverias, like most succulents, do not require much water, but they also don't like to be too dry. If the leaves begin to wrinkle, it's an obvious sign the plant needs water. It is better to under-water echeverias than to overwater them, as they can quickly succumb to root rot if overwatered.

Wait until the soil has dried out completely before watering your echeveria, and then give it a good soaking by letting the water stream through the pot's drainage holes. Depending on the size of the plant, it could be 1/2 cup to 1 cup of water every seven to 10 days during the growing season. If you use a saucer under the pot, make sure to empty any standing water that drains through. Echeveria will need to be watered during the summer months more frequently than in winter. In winter, water just enough to prevent wrinkled leaves, about once a month.

Temperature and Humidity

Echeverias thrive in hot, dry conditions. They do not tolerate cold temperatures or cold drafts well. Too much humidity can lead to root rot. The average household temperature and humidity levels are sufficient for echeverias but do not place them in a humid location, like a bathroom or laundry room. Most echeverias are cold hardy to USDA zone 9a and can grow in the ground with average winter temperatures no colder than 50 F. In wintery weather regions, move the plant inside when frost threatens.

Fertilizer

Regular fertilizing is not a requirement for growing echeveria, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. They are susceptible to fertilizer burn if over-fertilized. Occasional fertilizing during the spring and summer can help echeverias during their active growing period but be cautious. Use a cactus and succulent fertilizer or a controlled-release balanced 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer diluted two to four times more than usual. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer for young plants.

Types of Echeveria

Echeveria is a large, extensively hybridized genus featuring approximately 150 species and more than 1,000 cultivars. A wide pot filled with a variety of echeveria types makes a compelling visual display. Here are a few favorites:

Ghost echeveria (Echeveria lilacina): Pale, silvery-gray fleshy leaves; leaves are more lilac-colored in winter months; can produce pale pink or coral lantern-shaped blooms on long red stems when mature

Echeveria peacockii: Spoon-shaped, powdery blue-gray leaves with red tips that grow in a rosette formation

Mexican snowballs (Echeveria elegans): Also commonly known as white Mexican rose or Mexican gem succulent; features thick, fleshy blue-green to silver-green leaves

Mexican firecracker (Echeveria setosa): Scoop-shaped leaves with a rose-like look; each leaf is covered in tiny, short white hairs, giving the plant a fuzzy appearance; late spring, mature plants produce foot-long flower stalks with beautiful red firecracker-like urn-shaped flowers with yellow tips

Echeveria agavoides' Lipstick': Lime green leaves with pointy red edges, giving it the nickname "Lipstick"; its botanical name comes from its agave-looking foliage, with thick, triangle-shaped leaves

Pruning echeveria from time to time can help prevent rot, encourage new growth, and help your plant live longer. Generally, echeverias do not require regular pruning, but if your echeveria becomes leggy and elongated due to a lack of sunlight, trim it down to keep it looking attractive.

Pruning is best done at the beginning of their growing season; however, you can prune anytime. Eventually, the lower leaves will dry up and die, which is the plant's natural life cycle. Remove the dead leaves by gently pulling the dead leaves away with your fingers so they do not rot in place. Removing the leaves may also help encourage new growth along the stem.

Propagating Echeveria

It's fun to make more echeveria plants. They can be easily propagated by leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, offsets, or sowing seeds. Taking cuttings is an excellent way to prevent a plant from getting leggy. The best time to take cuttings is in spring. Here's how:

To propagate from leaf or stem cutting or offsets:

1. You'll need a tray, cactus mix, a plastic bag or clear dome, and a pot with ample drainage holes. If cutting a stem, you will need sterilized scissors or pruning snips.

2. Carefully separate a leaf from the plant's main stem by gently wiggling it side to side until it pops off. Always propagate more than one leaf, as not all will grow into a new plant.

3. If taking a stem cutting, snip off a stem that has become leggy.

4. If using an offset or offshoot (pup) growing off the main stem, carefully snip it or pinch it off the main branch.

5. Lay the leaf cutting, stem cutting, or offset flat on a tray and allow it to callous over for a few days before planting the calloused end in the pot filled with succulent or cacti mix.

6. Mist the soil, and cover the pot until the new plant sprouts. Place it in a sunny location-but avoid direct sunlight.

7. Once roots have developed (you will see new growth), water sparingly as you would with a mature succulent.

8. After about a month, a tiny rosette will begin to develop at the end of the leaf. Do not separate the leaf from the rosette, as it supplies the new succulent with energy and nutrients. Over time, the old leaf will shrivel and die as the new succulent becomes more independent.

How to Grow Echeveria From Seed

Scatter seeds, leaving space between each of the seeds on a bed of soil (60%), grit or sand (30%), and perlite (10%) or a succulent and cactus mix. You can use a terracotta pot or any container with ample drainage holes. Moisten the soil and keep it moist by covering it with plastic wrap or placing it into a zip-closing plastic bag.

Place the pot in a bright room but not in direct sunlight. Uncover the container once a day for an hour to give the plant ventilation. An ideal germination temperature is around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

After about three weeks, the seeds should start germinating. Once the seeds have sprouted and tiny rosettes form, remove the plastic covering. Keep the soil slightly moist (never let it dry) and provide ample light (but not direct sun). As seedlings, give them water every three to four days once the soil dries up.

Potting and Repotting Echeveria

Echeveria plants do not require frequent repotting and should only be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. If repotting, it is usually recommended in the spring as the plant will enter its active growing period.

To repot an echeveria plant, ensure the soil is completely dry before removing it from its potting container. Gently remove the plant from the pot. Carefully remove the excess soil from the roots before placing the plant in its new pot. Remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading out the roots as you repot. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Wait a week before watering after repotting to avoid the risk of root rot.

Overwintering

Echeveria cannot survive the winter outside. It can't handle temperatures below freezing. The best way to overwinter Echeveria is to bring your plant inside. Echeveria will not need to be kept extremely warm but at least above 45 degrees. It will go dormant during the cooler months and will not need as much water, only needing water about once a month.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Pests rarely seek out echeveria, but most succulents are susceptible to fungus gnats, spider mites, and mealy bugs. Fungus gnats look like little black flies that hover above the soil. Spider mites are tiny dust-like creatures that usually dot the underside of leaves; their tell-tale sign is fine webbing on the plant. Mealybugs have a white, cottony, or waxy appearance. Insecticidal soaps and neem oil can get rid of these insect infestations.

When succulents fall victim to diseases, fungal issues usually take them out. Cold or damp conditions or overwatering are usually to blame, causing rot. Rotten tissues turn red, brown, or black and usually turn soggy, slimy, and smell bad. You will need to restructure your watering routine, reducing quantity or frequency.

To treat the rot, remove the plant from its pot, wash the roots thoroughly, and cut away dead roots. Allow the plant to air for 24 hours and repot it in a new or sterilized pot with fresh soil. Give the plant a fungicidal soil treatment according to the package instructions.

How to Get Echeveria to Bloom

An echeveria will not flower until it's matured for at least four seasons. When it makes its ornate flower stalks, it's usually in the spring or summer. Deadhead or remove wilted flowers regularly. This step isn't mandatory but will help stimulate the plant to produce new flowers. Echeveria flowers do not have a scent.

Fertilizer can help echeveria flower. Use a thin, diluted high-phosphorus formula for flowering, like a 5-10-5 ratio fertilizer (or even 10-15-10). Apply it monthly from April until September.

If outdoors, it needs at least six hours of sun. Indoors, position it near a sunny window or use a grow light. Leggy or spindly echeveria usually won't produce flowers; low light is typically the cause. Also, too hot or too cold temperatures will discourage a plant from blooming. Ensure it has well-draining soil since soggy feet kills flower production and, eventually, the plant.

Common Problems With Echeveria

Most Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and offering plenty of light will help ensure success.

Discolored, Soft Growth

Browning or blackening of leaves or parts of the plant or mushiness is usually brought on by too much humidity or overwatering. Stem rot disease causes soft, mushy stems. If stem rot has developed, your plant has a fungal infection. Fungal infections are usually fatal, but you can try to save the plant by unpotting it, cutting away rotted roots, stems, and leaves, airing it out, and repotting it in fresh soil with a fungicide application.

Yellowing, Wilting, or Leaf Drop

Overwatering will cause leaves to appear bleached. Leaves may also wilt, swell, or fall off when given too much water. Also, check the undersides and crevices of leaves for insect activity. Bugs can cause plants to lose vigor and kill a plant if left unchecked.

Limp, Shriveling Leaves

If echeveria leaves start to shrivel or wrinkle, it is likely lacking water. The plant will begin to look droopy and wilted. Leaves will lose their plump, firm feeling. You might even notice dried-up, brown, dead leaves toward the bottom of the plant. Most succulents can bounce back after a thorough watering.

How long can an echeveria live?

An echeveria plant can live from three years to several decades, depending on whether its growing conditions mimic its natural environment.

Where should I put an echeveria plant in my house?

Echeveria plants are sun lovers. Echeveria can be grown indoors, but they must be placed in a south- or west-facing window for the brightest and longest light, especially during the shorter winter days.

What are alternatives to echeveria?

Echeveria succulents are similar to Haworthia and Sempervivum succulents but stand apart for their plump, smooth leaves in a stunning rosette shape.

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Echeveria succulents are beautiful, low-maintenance plants that are a great addition to a home or garden. Help them thrive with these care instructions.

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Philodendron Care

When caring for an indoor philodendron plant, aim to mimic its natural tropical environment. Provide plenty of warmth and moisture near a sunny window. During warm weather, put philodendron houseplants outside in a shady spot to get some fresh air and natural light on occasion. Beware of direct sunlight; it can burn their delicate leaves.

Keep your plant's leaves looking and functioning their best by regularly dusting them off with a damp cloth.

These plants don't have any serious issues with pests or diseases. But they can be susceptible to common houseplant pests, including aphids, mealybugs, scale, thrips, and spider mites. Treat pests with a natural insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.

Philodendrons typically grow best in partial sunlight. They naturally would get dappled light under a tropical canopy, not direct sun. Indoors, set them up by a window that gets bright, indirect light. Too little light can result in leggy growth with lots of space in between the leaves. But too much light can cause many of the leaves to turn yellow at the same time. (Only a few leaves yellowing is typically just normal aging.)

Philodendrons like loose potting soil that's rich in organic matter. The soil must have good drainage. For container plants, it's recommended to replace your philodendron's soil every couple of years or so. These plants are sensitive to salts that accumulate in the soil via watering, which can cause leaf browning and yellowing. You can periodically flush out some of the salts by watering your container thoroughly until water comes out of its drainage holes. But eventually, the soil will need refreshing.

These plants generally like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Both overwatering and underwatering can cause the leaves to droop, so gauge when it's time to water by the soil dryness and not necessarily the leaves. Philodendrons don't do well sitting in soggy soil, as this can lead to root rot. The non-climbing varieties tend to have a little more drought tolerance than the vining species. Reduce your water for indoor plants and during the winter.

Temperature and Humidity

The temperature tolerance of philodendrons varies based on the species. In general, they should not be exposed to temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors protect them from cool drafts, such as those from an air-conditioning vent. These plants like humidity, so you might have to boost humidity around your philodendron if you live in a dry climate. To do so, you can mist the plant every few days with water from a spray bottle. You can also place the container on a tray of pebbles filled with water, ensuring that the bottom of the container isn't touching the water, leading to root rot.

Fertilizer

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly on your plant in the spring and summer. Then, reduce feeding to every six to eight weeks in the fall and winter. If your plant isn't getting enough food, its growth will be slower than normal, and its leaves might appear smaller than usual.

Types of Philodendron

The most common species of philodendron include:

Philodendron scandens: This plant is a very popular climber. It has heart-shaped leaves that are sometimes multicolored.

Philodendron erubescens: This is a vigorous climber with reddish stems and leaves.

Philodendron melanochrysum: This plant is a stunning climber with dark, velvety leaves powdered in bronze.

Philodendron rojo: This is a hybrid that stays small and manageable but retains its vigor.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum:This is a large plant with deeply lobed leaves and is sometimes called lacy tree philodendron.

If your philodendron vines get too long or leggy, cut them back using sterilized pruning shears or scissors. The best time to do this is in the spring or summer. You can safely give your philodendron a light trim any time of year to remove yellowing leaves and trim spindly growth. It's best to cut just above a leaf node.

Propagating Philodendrons

Philodendrons are easy to propagate from stem cuttings and division. The best time to propagate is in the early spring as the days grow longer. Here's how to propagate philodendrons from these methods:

Propagate from stem cuttings:

1. You will need sterilized pruning shears or heavy-duty scissors, potting mix, a pot, and, optionally, rooting hormone.

2. Cut roughly a 6-inch portion of the stem, and place it in a water container to develop roots. You can introduce a rooting hormone (per the package instructions) to increase your chance of success with rooting, but it's usually not necessary.

3. Add more water as it evaporates. If sitting longer than two or three weeks in the same water, completely change the water to prevent algae or bacterial growth.

4. Once several roots have developed (usually within two weeks), pot the cutting in moist soil.

To divide your philodendron:

1. Philodendrons often develop plantlets that can be removed from the main plant with their roots intact and transplanted once they grow several inches long.

2. The day before you plan to divide your plant, water the plant well. Dividing is traumatic for the plant, so you want your plant at its best.

3. You'll need a sharp knife, potting mix, and a new pot.

4. Remove the plant from its current container, place it on a flat, steady surface, use your fingers to loosen the root ball, and pull off the plantlet with its roots. Use a knife to help you cut through dense roots if necessary.

5. Replant the plantlet immediately in a fresh, moist potting mix.

Growing Philodendron From Seed

Growing philodendrons from seed is a slow process; stem cuttings are much faster. In a 6-inch pot, you can plant several seeds. Plant one seed every 2-inches about 1/3 of an inch deep in rich soil. Cover the plant with plastic. Remove the plastic occasionally to allow air in. Spray the soil regularly to keep it moist. Philodendron seeds do not need to be soaked before planting. The seeds will take about two to eight weeks to germinate at a soil temperature between 68 and 73 degrees Fahrenheit. When the seedlings sprout and become sturdy enough to handle, move each one to a small pot of its own to foster strong root development.

Potting and Repotting Philodendrons

Plant a philodendron in a slightly larger container than its root ball with ample drainage holes. When the roots start poking up from the soil and out of the pot's drainage holes, it's time to repot the philodendron. The ideal time repot is in the late spring or early summer. Select one pot size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it in the new one with fresh soil at the bottom and around its sides. Then, water the plant thoroughly.

Overwintering

Tropicals need to be overwintered in the house if you do not live in a tropical zone. Many tropicals and common houseplants do well through the winter indoors. They adapt quickly to indoor conditions. As the days shorten and the temperatures cool, philodendrons need a little less water than during the warmer growing season. Also, only water when the top of the soil starts to become dry to the touch when indoors. Also, before you bring the plants, use pruners to cut off the yellowing leaves or long leggy stems. Check for mold, signs of decay, and insects before bringing it inside.

Common Problems With Philodendron

Philodendrons are an easy-going plant that acclimates well to indoor living and can also propagate easily. It is prone to some wellness issues when water, sun, and soil conditions are not being met. Here are some signs to look for and how to handle them.

Yellowing Leaves

Several issues can cause yellowing leaves, such as giving too cold water, not offering enough sunlight, or exposing the plant to too much bright light. If the older leaves are yellowing, then you may be underwatering the plant. If the younger bottom sets of leaves turn yellow, you may be overwatering the plant. In most cases, adjust these factors to see your plant rebound.

If you give plant food to your philodendron, be careful to water the soil first, add a water-diluted fertilizer solution, and then water the plant again. These extra steps ensure the roots do not get burned by the chemicals in the fertilizer, which can cause yellowing.

Yellowing and Rotting Smell

If your plant's leaves turn yellow very quickly, it can be a sign of root rot. If you catch it quickly, you might be able to save the plant. Smell the soil for a rotting odor or dig up the root to inspect its health. In most cases, cut away the black, mushy pieces of rotting root and replant the white or yellow portions of roots in a clean container with fresh soil.

Yellow Splotches or Patterning on Leaves

If you notice small yellow lesions or patterns on your plant's leaves, it can be a sign of the mosaic virus. You may be able to get rid of the virus by helping the plant defend itself. If the temperature is still warm, bring the plant outside for some indirect, natural light. Keep the infected plant at least 2 feet away from other plants. Remove the badly affected leaves. Hose down the rest of the leaves, removing any dust on the surface of the leaves. Apply a diluted nitrogen-rich fertilizer to the soil, to help the plant grow back stronger.

Browning Leaves

If your plant develops browning leaf edges, you may be shocking your plants with too cold water. Also, if your plant's leaves start to get brown and mushy, you are likely overwatering your plants. Brown leaf edges that start to curl indicate the water needs more water and less sun. Make adjustments accordingly.

Browning leaf tips with yellow halos can indicate your plant needs more humidity. You can mist the plant's leaves or place the plant container atop a tray of peddles with water to raise the humidity. Don't submerge the plant base; keep it right above the waterline.

Are philodendrons easy to care for?

They are especially easy to grow and care for, which makes them perfect plants for beginners.

How fast does philodendron grow?

Philodendron plants are very quick-growing plants; they can grow up to 4 inches a week during the spring and summer.

How long can philodendron live?

If given the right conditions, this plant can live for decades.

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When caring for an indoor philodendron plant, aim to mimic its natural tropical environment. Provide plenty of warmth and moisture near a sunny window. During warm weather, put philodendron houseplants outside in a shady spot to get some fresh air and natural light on occasion. Beware of direct sunlight; it can burn their delicate leaves.

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Philodendrons are one of the easiest plants to grow. Here are 5 tips for raising healthy philodendron indoors.

1. Change the light
Do you want your philodendron to grow faster? Does your plant look a little leggy? Give your plant a bit more light and you'll see the difference. While this generally unfussy plant can survive in low light, it grows faster (and will stay healthier) in bright indirect light. Too much sun is bad, however. The leaves can burn in direct sunlight.
Read more about finding the right light for your houseplants.

2. Don't overwater
One of the quickest way to kill a plant -- any plant -- is to overwater it. If roots sit in water-logged soil, they will essentially drown. Your plant may actually show you it's getting too much water: if the leaves are droopy (and the soil feels moist), it's a sign to let up on watering. If the soil is bone dry, droopy leaves can be a sign that the plant is not getting enough water.
See how to identify what is wrong if you have yellowing leaves.

3. Feed your plant (but don't go bananas)
Fertilize your philodendron once a month in the spring and summer months. This is when your plant will put on the most growth. In the fall and winter, taper back feedings to every 6 to 8 weeks. Another rule of thumb is to look at the leaves for clues as to when to feed more. If the plant is growing slowly and the new leaves are smaller than the older leaves, the plant may be saying "feed me."
Dig into more about feeding your plants.

4. Give vining types room to roam
Show off the charms of vining philodendrons by giving them space and opportunity to grow upwards or cascade down. These ambitious plants can scale a post or other structure. Or they can cascade down when planted in a hanging basket.
Discover more creative ways to display hanging plants.

5. Repot your philodendron when it becomes root bound
Because philodendrons are such easy plants to grow, plant lovers have them for years. Eventually if you are a successful philodendron parent, you will need to repot your plant. If the roots are growing out of the drain holes in the bottom of the pot, it's time to repot.
Here are other signals that it's repotting time -- and how to repot your plant.

Written by Karen Weir-Jimerson

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Discover these 5 easy tips for growing healthy and happy philodendrons.

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How To Care For An Indoor Cactus - My Tasteful Space

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Indoor cactus care is quite simple! Only requiring a lot of light and very little water, this plant is ideal for beginners, and black thumbs!

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How Much and How Often Should You Water Jade Plants?

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Not sure how much or how often you should be watering your Jade plant? Find out what to expect when it comes to their watering needs!

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Jade Plant Care

Caring for a jade plant is easy, as long as you understand the plant's basic needs for soil, water, and light. Here are the main care requirements for growing a jade plant:

Plant in loose, well-draining soil. A succulent potting mix is the best option.

Place in a bright window that receives indirect light; a south-facing or west-facing window works well.

Water the plant frequently during the spring and summer to keep the soil moist-but never soggy. In the winter, reduce watering to about once per month.

Use a 20-20-20 fertilizer during the growing season to promote robust growth.

Jade plants need a lot of light, at least six hours of bright indirect sunlight per day. The type of light is important since direct sunlight can be too harsh and cause the leaves to shrivel and burn, especially for young jade plants. However, too little light can cause problems too. In low-light conditions, the jade plant will have leggy growth that causes the plant to become weak and topple over-rather than maintaining a full, bushy appearance.

To find the best spot to place a jade plant in your home, look for a south-facing window. A west-facing window should also provide enough light. A jade plant makes an attractive addition to a kitchen or as living decor in an office. Avoid rooms with limited windows and light exposure, like the bathroom.

One way to know that your jade plant is receiving enough light is the development of a red tint along the edges of the oval-shaped leaves. This rosy hue develops when the plant has sufficient sunlight to thrive.

When choosing a potting mix for your jade plant, a succulent-specific blend is your best bet. Compared to all-purpose potting soil, potting soil for succulents is looser to facilitate draining and prevent moisture retention, which can lead to fungal growth.

The ideal potting soil for a jade plant should be a blend of sand, potting soil, and perlite or pumice. In a pinch, you can add perlite or pumice to potting soil to create more well-draining soil for your jade plant. Another strategy to prevent moisture retention is to pick a terracotta or clay pot since these materials readily absorb water from the soil.

Jade plants require a neutral to slightly acidic pH level-that equates to a range of 7 to 5.5 on the pH scale. When in doubt, you can test the soil pH, but most succulent blend potting mixes will have an acceptable pH level.

The watering needs of a jade plant vary throughout the year. The jade plant grows actively during the spring and summer months and is usually dormant in the winter months. It's important to pay attention to the needs of the plant since overwatering is one of the quickest ways to kill a succulent. In its native desert climate, this type of plant is used to receiving deep watering followed by a period of drought. So overwatering the succulent introduces more water into the root environment than the plant can handle, creating conditions ripe for root rot.

Water the plant more frequently in the summer because of the increased plant activity and the warmer temperatures. Aim to keep the soil slightly moist but it should not stay wet or saturated. If it does hold water, the soil drainage may not be sufficient. Water again when the soil begins to dry; it's not necessary to let the soil become bone dry, but you should err on the side of caution when deciding whether or not it's time to water. Reduce your watering to once monthly in the winter, when the plant enters dormancy.

You can water the jade plant from underneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water. However, you should pour off any excess water after a few minutes. Never let a jade plant sit in water.

Temperature and Humidity

Jade plants prefer average household temperatures ranging from 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. At night and in the winter, jade plants can handle a cooler environment, down to 55 degrees Fahrenheit, though they should never be kept in temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit for any prolonged period of time.

When deciding where to place your jade plant, pick a spot that has relatively consistent temperatures. If you put the plant in a location with constantly fluctuating temperatures (like underneath an HVAC duct or in the path of a drafty window or door), you may cause added stress as the plant struggles to adapt to rising and falling temperatures.

Fertilizer

Many people underfeed their succulents during their growing season. For the most successful jade plant, feed it with a controlled-release fertilizer at the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at one-quarter strength on mature plants and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.

Propagating Jade Plants

The jade plant is well-known for its ease of propagation. New plants can be propagated from a single leaf or cutting taken from a parent plant, giving you the opportunity to dramatically increase your collection with ease. The best time to propagate jade plants is during the summer when they're most likely to receive ample sunlight and humidity. These favorable growth conditions will help the newly propagated jade plant to have a successful start.

To propagate with cuttings:

1. Start by taking a cutting that is at least two to three inches long. It should be taken from a healthy, mature plant that is free from disease.

2. Allow the cutting to sit for several days in a warm, dry place. You are ready to proceed once the end of the cutting has dried out and scabbed over.

3. Dip the wound of the cutting in a rooting hormone powder.

4. Plant the cut end of the stem in a pot containing a mixture of half soil, and half vermiculite (or perlite).

5. Water sparingly, just until the potting mixture is damp. Your cutting should take root in a few weeks, at which point you can begin to care for the cutting as you would a normal jade plant.

To propagate with leaves:

1. Start by taking a leaf cutting that includes the stem of the leaf (twisting it from the plant gently can help). Cuttings without this intact will not root. It should be taken from a healthy, mature plant that is free from disease.

2. Allow the cutting to sit for several days in a warm, dry place. You are ready to proceed once the end of the cutting has dried out and scabbed over.

3. Dip the wound of the cutting in a rooting hormone powder.

4. Place the cutting on top of a potting soil blend that contains half soil, and half vermiculite (or perlite). The leaf cutting does not need to be buried; simply making contact with the soil will be sufficient enough to prompt growth.

5. Place the plant in a warm bright place, misting occasionally to keep the plant barely moist. Roots and baby plants should begin appearing around the edge of the leaf, at which point you can begin to care for the cutting like a traditional jade plant.

Potting and Repotting Jade Plants

When choosing a pot for a jade plant, consider the size of the current plant. These plants have small root systems and won't benefit from a pot that is much larger than the root ball. In fact, a pot that is too deep or large poses a risk of holding too much moisture and introducing fungal issues into the root system.

Generally, a four-inch or six-inch pot with drainage holes works just fine for average-size jade plants. Larger jade plants that measure several feet high can become top-heavy. For taller, heavier plants, make sure that the pot has a heavy bottom that prevents the plant from toppling over. However, you should still do your best to avoid picking a pot that is oversized in comparison to the root system. If you can, opt for a vessel made from unglazed clay, which will permit excess moisture to evaporate through its walls and ensure that your plant doesn't become waterlogged.

A jade plant will typically need repotting every two to three years for smaller plants and every four to five years for larger ones. If you notice your jade plant appears to be outgrowing its container-e.g., if roots are popping up out of the soil-follow these steps to repot it properly:

1. Make sure the soil is dry before repotting.

2. Gently run a butter knife or other flat tool around the inner edge of the pot to loosen the soil and remove any roots that are stuck to the walls of the pot.

3. Remove the jade plant from the pot.

4. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotten or dead roots in the process. Treat any visible cuts with a fungicide.

5. Place the plant in its new pot, and backfill it with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.

6. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, and then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.

Common Pests

Like many other houseplants and succulents, jade plants must contend with a variety of pests. The most common pest is the mealybug, which can leave white patches on the plant, specifically where the leaves attach to the stems. Because jade plants (and succulents in general) are particularly sensitive to insecticides and oils, you should treat mealybugs by wiping them off with a cotton ball or tissue soaked with rubbing alcohol. Other pest issues can include an infestation of spider mites or scale, both of which can be treated the same way.

Common Problems With Jade Plants

While jade plants are fairly easy to care for and not terribly temperamental, you might find yourself running into a few issues that leave you wondering why your plant isn't thriving the way it should.

Shriveled Leaves or Limp, Drooping Jade Plant

Because jade plants store water in their leaves, wrinkly or shriveled leaves are a good indication that your plant isn't getting enough water. They might be accompanied by drooping or a general "wilt" of the whole plant, resulting in limp stems that don't support the foliage of the plant.

To remedy the situation, water the plant thoroughly until water freely flows from the drainage holes. Wait patiently to water again until the soil begins to dry; resist the temptation to water the plant on consecutive days in an effort to perk up the leaves or stems of a drooping jade plant.

A jade plant with drooping stems or shriveling leaves could also be a response to major temperature shifts. If the plant is subject to widely varying temperatures throughout the day, you may need to move it to a location in your home that is more consistent. It should not be placed underneath an air vent or in the path of a draft from a door or window.

Loss of Leaves

If your jade plant is losing leaves at a frequent rate, it might be a sign that it's not getting enough light. Move the plant somewhere where it gets bright, indirect light for at least six hours a day, and observe whether the problem improves. If most of the leaves falling are old leaves, or the dropping is accompanied by leggy growth, your plant might be too warm and need to be located somewhere with a slightly cooler (but not cold) temperature.

All-Over Yellowing

One or two yellow leaves on your jade plant isn't the end of the world. But if you notice your plant is yellowing all over, that is a sign of a more serious issue. Generally, an all-over yellowing of a jade plant is indicative of overwatering. Check for other telltale signs (such as rotting roots), and cut back on the frequency with which you water.

How to Save a Jade Plant

The first step in saving a jade plant is to identify the issue(s) impacting the health of your plant. The most common causes of a dying jade plant are problems with watering, light conditions, or pest infestation.

Have you neglected watering the plant for a very long time, leaving the soil ultra-dry? Start with a deep watering session, adding water until it freely runs out of the drainage holes. Beware of hydrophobic soil, which is soil that has become so dry and compacted that it absorbs no water. If the water sits on the soil surface or seems to just run along the edges of the pot and out the drainage holes, you may need to lightly aerate the soil surface with a fork. If that doesn't increase the ability of the soil to absorb water, you'll need to repot in fresh soil.

If you have maintained a regular watering regimen, you may have overwatered your jade plant. Check the roots for rot. To do so, you'll need to remove the plant from its pot and visually inspect the root system. The roots of a healthy jade plant should be white, firm, and odorless. If the roots have become infected with rot, they'll be soft, brown, and have a perceptible smell.

To save a jade plant with root rot, you'll have to trim away the infected roots, being cautious not to remove any healthy roots that are important for the plant's continued survival. Once you've trimmed the rotten roots from the plant, remove as much remaining soil as possible from the root ball to prevent any contamination. Repot the plant in fresh soil.

In the case of a jade plant that is dying from too much or too little light, move the plant to a new location in your home. As suggested earlier, pick a spot that receives at least six hours of bright, indirect light each day without exposing the plant to harsh, direct light.

For a jade plant that has been infested with pests like spider mites, scale, or mealybugs, use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to eliminate all visible pests. Repeat until the issue has been resolved.

Are jade plants easy to care for?

Generally, jade plant care is easy and straightforward. However, some plant owners have a hard time figuring out the right watering schedule at first.

What plants are similar to jade plants?

How long do jade plants live?

One major jade plant benefit is the plant's longevity. With proper care, jade plants can live between 50 and 70 years-sometimes even longer. Because of this, they're often passed down generationally.

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Tips for Helping Your Jade Plants to Thrive

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Jade plants (Crassula ovata) are popular succulents thanks to their ease of care and attractive leaves. Use these tips to successfully grow your own.

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The family Piperaceae belongs to an ancient lineage of flowering plants known as Magnoliids. These plants are mostly tropical, and are the source of many of the essential oils and botanical oddities that we use today. Avocados, bay laurel, black pepper, cinnamon, magnolias, and nutmeg are all Magnoliids. In the clade Magnoliids, sits the order Piperales, which includes the family Piperaceae, home to the genus Peperomia.

Unlike plants Peperomia are distantly-related to, they are grown not for food purposes, but for ornamental purposes. Their flower spikes lack a perianth, or petals and sepals, and instead are borne on a spike. The spike, or inflorescence, is an easy way to identify a blooming plant is from the Piperaceae. It might not be the most attractive flower, however, Peperomia plants are grown for their beautiful foliage, not their blooms. They are semi-succulent, adaptable, visual-appealing, and pet-friendly-all characteristics that make for suitable houseplants.

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All About Peperomia Plants and How to Care for Them - The Sill

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2022 is the Year is the Peperomia. The genus, in the peppercorn family Piperaceae, is home to over a thousand species of diverse plants-including popular houseplants such as the Watermelon Peperomia, Ripple Peperomia, Baby Rubber Plant, and more.

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When watering potted plants, overwatering can be just as detrimental as underwatering. Besides watering frequency, the watering method you use also plays a role in how much water the plant gets. Potted plants can be watered either from the top or from the bottom. Although watering from the top is the most common method, it is not always the best.

This article gives you the gist on bottom watering and helps you decide whether it's right for your plants.

What Is Bottom Watering for Plants?

Bottom watering, also called reverse watering, is adding water to the saucer underneath the pot, or placing the pot in a bucket, sink, or another large container of water. The water is slowly absorbed and drawn into the potting medium through the drainage holes of the pot.

Benefits of Bottom Watering

If it's done properly, bottom watering has several benefits. First, water is better absorbed with this method, especially when the potting medium is dry. This eliminates water running through the potting medium like in top watering, or worse, running off the soil surface and spilling out of the pot, which can happen when the soil is very dry.

Second, bottom watering ensures all of the potting medium gets saturated, not just the top layer. This lets plants develop stronger, deeper root systems as the roots are growing toward the water source.

Third, it is a more controlled watering method than top watering, because you don't give the plant more than the potting medium can absorb. It also avoids getting the plant leaves wet, which some plants don't like.

And fourth, bottom watering discourages fungus gnats from laying their eggs. Fungus gnat females lay up to 200 eggs on the surface of moist potting medium.

Types of Plants You Can Bottom Water

Provided that they are grown in pots with good-size drainage holes and a potting medium that absorbs moisture well, almost any plants can be bottom-watered. Keep in mind, though, that bottom watering takes longer than top watering, so if time is an issue, choose top watering. Also, very large containers should be top watered if they're too heavy to move to a tub, because they'll be even heavier once they're watered.

These plants are prime candidates for bottom watering:

Plants with hairy or fuzzy leaves, such as African violets, or plants that don't like getting their leaves wet, such as snake plants, Philodendron verrucosum, and . When wet, the leaves of these plants tend to rot easily.

Plants grown in soilless mixes.

Plants with a dense leaf cover that makes it difficult for water to reach the soil surface.

Plants whose leaves or crown can get damaged when it gets wet, such as cyclamen and begonias.

Plants whose potting medium has dried out severely. Only very slow watering from the bottom ensures that the entire soil medium gets moistened thoroughly.

Tip

How to Bottom Water Plants

1. Fill a sink or tub with room-temperature water (add fertilizer if needed). If your municipal water contains chlorine, consider using distilled or filtered water. Make sure the water level covers the bottom inch of the pot.

2. Let the pot soak up the water until the top layer of the potting medium feels moist (insert your index finger in the soil to check). For small pots, it takes about 15 minutes.

3. Remove the pot from the sink or tub and allow it to drain, then place it back on its saucer.

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What Is Bottom Watering? Here's How it Helps Your Plants

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Bottom watering can be the better method for potted plants than top watering, because it fully soaks the soil. Find out when and how to bottom water.

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HOW AND WHEN TO BOTTOM WATER YOUR SUCCULENTS | EASY SUCCULENT CARE TIPS

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Water your arrangement as soon as you receive it. When watering, you want to see water come out of the drainage hole on the bottom of the planter. That's how you know it's getting a good drink.

Contrary to popular belief, succulents need lots of sun in order to thrive. And these little beauties prefer several hours of the bright, morning sun. They can be stored inside a brightly lit room or window sill. Or outside where you get some shade in the afternoons. Avoid direct sunlight to prevent sunburn.

Wait until the soil is completely DRY before the next watering. A way to test this is by sticking a bamboo skewer stick or toothpick about an inch deep, pulling out and seeing whether or not any dirt is stuck to it or if it comes out clean (if it's dry or still somewhat moist/cool to the touch. If dry, it's time for a drink! If still a little wet, leave it alone and wait a couple of more days to water. Pull off any leaves that show signs of brown or yellowing to avoid rotting or fungus.

Care Instructions: Care Instructions

Keep your terrarium in bright, indirect light. Do not place the terrarium in direct sun in order to prevent overheating and possibly burning your plants. In a low-light environment, you can use a grow light bulb.

Water your succulent terrarium with a baster/pipette around the base, making sure the roots are getting a thorough drink. Avoid wetting the leaves and do not mist. Wait for the soil to completely dry out before the next watering. You can use the same soil moisture test mentioned above under the arrangement care section. :)

Shriveled leaves indicate a lack of water. Yellowing leaves indicate over-watering. Remove any yellow or dead leaves. Most succulents can be trimmed if they outgrow the terrarium and replanted in a bigger pot.

Care Instructions: Care Instructions

After you have created your Succulent Pumpkin, wait 7 days for their first spritz of water.

That way all of the glued succulents have settled and callused over a bit.

Get a spray bottle and fill it with distilled or spring water. When spraying, focus on thoroughly wetting the moss and base of the plants.

Wipe off any moisture collected around and on the bottom of the pumpkin.

Best to place on a trivet for good air circulation.

Only spray once a week. Do not overwater to prevent root rot and killing your plants.

If you have your pumpkin inside of your home, make sure it gets ample sunlight so the succulents will stay rosette-like and retain their vibrant colors.

Allow it to get some fresh air for about 2 hours a day in the morning.

Do not leave your succulent pumpkin in direct sun as

your succulents may burn or freckle and the pumpkin may rot.

Once you're ready to transplant your succulents, you can carefully remove them from the top of your pumpkin and repot them in a good draining soil (Palm, Citrus, and Cactus soil - can be found at your local hardware store).

Lastly, enjoy your beautiful creation!

Best always,

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Water your arrangement as soon as you receive it. When watering, you want to see water come out of the drainage hole on the bottom of the planter. That's how you know it's getting a good drink. Contrary to popular belief, succulents need lots of sun in order to thrive.

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Snake plant

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Ficus elastica

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I’m going to get a haircut at three and then I’ll come over to the office to do my nails so I’ll probably just do my hair at four and I will just go home after I drop the girls at school so I’ll just come home after I pick up my daughter from work so so you don’t need me there for a little while so you can just go to my office if you’re still busy if you’re still not there I will be home after that if not I will be back by three or three to drop the boys and you could just come by after

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I’m going to get a haircut at three and then I’ll come over to the office to do my nails so I’ll probably just do my hair at four and I will just go home after I drop the girls at school so I’ll just come home after I pick up my daughter from work so so you don’t need me there for a little while so you can just go to my office if you’re still busy if you’re still not there I will be home after that if not I will be back by three or three to drop the boys and you could just come by after

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Oh I see I was thinking of you I just got home and I’m going back home now I love it thank goodness for the kids and the dogs and I hope they have fun and enjoy your time off and enjoy the weekend I hope you’re doing good love and I miss seeing your pictures and videos and pictures I miss seeing them and seeing your faces I miss you and love your pictures I miss seeing your pictures so many pictures of your beautiful babies I miss seeing your face I love your face I hope you’re happy and happy with the babies I love your babies I love my baby and I’m glad you’re having fun with the kids I miss them so happy to hear from them and I’m glad that you’re having fun I miss you too love

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The Amazon Lily plant, whiter than snow outside the greenhouse window are the five petals of the "eucharist lily" the Eucharis grandiflora [YOU-kar-is gran-di-FLO-ra].

Lovely, too, is its chartreuse lined perianth-cup, with six anthers and a white central pistil, that gives off a delicate perfume reminiscent of several tropical plants.

Pin

The Amazon Lily Eucharis A Native Of The Andes!

The Amazon lily are monocotyledonous, bulbous plants originating from the rainforest of the South American Andes of Peru and Colombia.

This so-called "hothouse bulbous plant," has large glossy leaves, deep green foliage, with ribbings similar to those of the familiar plantain-lily found in gardens.

There are about 10 species of plant belonging to Amaryllidaceae (amaryllis family) and they all bear fragrant white flowers.

The lily's main flowering season is in winter although it can bloom several times a year in spring or during summer.

The flower stalk, which for me appeared in December, resembled a slim version of an amaryllis stalk.

When this attained a height of 19″ inches, the outside bracts fell back and revealed five buds, with curving stems, that grew in size daily.

The first white flowers opened with a span of four inches, showing off the Eucharist lily plants beauty.

What Are The Lily Eucharis Growing Requirements?

The Amazon lily Eucharis thrives under humid conditions in South America, it is best to grow it as a potted plant in a location where several other plants are growing together.

This makes it easier to maintain a humid environment. When left to grow undisturbed, this flowering plant reproduces and can actually flower several times annually.

You can also plant them outside in a shady place or grow them in a pot where you can move them to protected areas during winter.

This beautiful plant does well in areas whose minimal temperatures range between 65°-70° degrees Fahrenheit at night and by day; they can relatively increase by 10°-15° degrees Fahrenheit. It also does well in soils that are rich in organic matter.

How To Care For The Eucharis Grandiflora Lily

The easy to grow Amazon lilly bulbs can be bought in the fall. You can start with 4-5 bulbs in a six to eight-inch container since they bloom best when crowded.

Just remember to plant them with their necks slightly above the soil surface. Ensure that the soil is loose and well-drained. It's important to note that they bloom best when pot bound.

Use regular soil with 25%-50% perlite or pumice. Add a to 1″ inch layer of gravel or charcoal at the bottom.

Amazon lily thrives in a well-fertilized soil that's rich in organic matter. The soil should also be kept evenly moist during the growing season for best results.

After flowering, you can reduce the rate of watering for about 2- 4 weeks to allow the plant to rest although caution should be taken not to dry out the soil completely.

After this, the Eucharis amazonica will produce new stems and fragrant white flowers. It is best to plant the Amazon lily in sunny conditions although not in direct sunlight as its leaves tend to get burned especially during spring or summer.

Remember to plant it in protected areas in partial shade as the lily does not like to be blown about by the wind.

Amazon lilies produce offsets just like other bulbs, however, don't be quick to replant them in a different container.

Allow them to reproduce till the container is full then divide them only when they seem ready to break the container. This is because their roots don't like to be disturbed and can fail to bloom for a whole year or more after being repotted.

If undisturbed, this plant can actually live in one container for many years.

When the need arises, it is recommended to carry out the repotting of the lily during spring.

In order to do so, separate the small bulbs from the parent bulb. Select offsets that have at least one leaf as they will grow very fast as long as they have bright light and bottom heat but no direct sunlight.

Ensure that where you are repotting them to, the soil is moist, porous and well-drained. Feed and water them on a regular basis as they do not require any rest period before they flower for the first time.

When taking the offsets, extreme caution should be taken not to disturb the roots too much lest they fail to bloom for a year or more. However, this exercise should be done every 3- 4 years.

Make sure not to spray water on the open flowers. The cut flowers of the lily have the amazing ability to live for about 8 days provided clean fresh water is supplied to them on a regular basis.

Moreover, every now and then, remove withered leaves and faded blooms from the pot.

The Eucharis Amazonica Lily and Pests!

Although the Amazon lily is rarely bothered by pests and diseases due to its sturdy nature, it is advisable to be on the lookout for pests such as scale bug insects, caterpillars, bulb mites, thrips and spider mites.

In winter when humidity is low a Spider mite problem can show up, if the plant is placed near a warm, sunny window.

Frequent misting helps to keep humidity high and these mites can be easily wiped off with some damp sponge as they can cause stippling of leaves making them to lose their gloss.

On the other hand, caterpillars eating leaves chew ugly holes in the leaves and snails and slugs will feed on the foliage if given a chance.

Thrips are tiny insects black in color that tend to hide under the leaves. They feed on the leaf leaving behind a silvery stippling. They can also be easily removed by wiping with a damp sponge.

I've Personally Found The Amazon Lily Plant Thriving on Neglect

At one time, the Amazon Lily almost did not make as I came close to discarding this beautiful plant.

For five years, I have carried my lily back and forth from the garden to the greenhouse, evidently watering it too much and dividing the bulbs too often.

This fall, I decided to dispense with geraniums, begonias and other space-taking plants and concentrate more on tropicals. The "amazing lily", completely and most definitely pot-bound, was dug up, pot and all, at the first indication of frost.

After this, I left the Amazon lily outdoors for a month, where it had a chance to dry out. The foliage continued to flourish, so it was brought into the greenhouse to use for background. Apparent neglect was evidently what the Eucharis lily needed to bring it into bloom.
Related Reading:
Growing The Amazon Lily

Now the Amazon Lily receives same treatment as other plants. It summers under the partial shade of a tree in the garden and winters in a greenhouse run at 55° degrees Fahrenheit minimum, with ventilators set to open at 75° degrees Fahrenheit when the sun is shining. Potted in a well-drained soil in an earthernware pot, with broken pieces over the drainage hole.

Every two weeks it is fed with a soluble concentrated liquid plant food and sprayed each morning with warm water.

Amazon-lilies are susceptible to mealy bugs and red spider, but thus far, I have had no trouble. Offsets may be taken from the bulbs in the spring, remembering that they do not like disturbance.

Use loam, with one-third cow manure, or compost, plus sand and charcoal, to keep the mixture porous. Water sparingly until growth begins.

The bulbs of amazon lilies can be forced into bloom two or three times a year, if water is withheld until the leaves start to wilt.

Then water and allow to dry for a month. Thereafter, water regularly and feed about every two weeks until the flowers open. Discontinue feeding until new leaves appear.

If you enjoy growing plants with striking blooms check out the Blood lily flower.

Reader Mary Keeley Shares Her Eucharis Lily Experience

I was torn between selecting Sprekelia (aztec lily) or eucharis amazon lilies as my favorite plant and in the toss-up chose Eucharis grandiflora or the alabaster Lily of the Amazon and I don't regret it.

I ordered the bulbs of amazon lilies online. Mine have blossomed twice and I am hoping that they will favor me again next April although last year seemed to be their year for multiplying and I divided them into six pots.

This native of the Colombian Andes is a handsome plant for the window garden. It has long stemmed basal leaves and clusters of dazzling white, trumpet-like blossoms with a perfume that's subtle yet potent enough to permeate the house.

Being too busy to fuss over house plants, I give it no special care. It's kept potted in a coarse, fibrous soil with charcoal and sand, in an east window with other amaryllids and watered whenever dry.

During spring and fall it's fed once a month with liquid plant food and in winter (bi-weekly when blooming).

In the summer, I set it out on a shelf in deep shade. When it looks thirsty, I give it a bath under the faucet, as red spiders hate that as much as the plant likes it.

The form and chaste lustrous white of the Amazon Lily are very distinctive. When it blooms I drop everything and call the neighbors in.

What Are Some Uses For The Amazon Lily?

They make a fantastic container plant, with its dark green leaves and shade loving.

It's also a popular and beautiful bridal flower plant.

It makes an excellent indoor plant, that can add beauty to any given space.

Since you may not find the Amazon lily bulbs in the stores, you can opt to order them online from a mail-order specialty bulb nursery.

When purchasing Amazon lily bulbs, ensure that the green stems have not somewhat snapped in the pack. Ensure that the stems look healthy and are firm and succulent which is the best guarantee that they are alive and will beautifully flower.

Given the right care, the Amazon lily can last for many, many years. You'll love the beauty and color they will add to your life.

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Amazon Lily Plant: How To Care For The Eucharis Lily

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The Amazon lily plant [Eucharis Lily] thrives in soil rich in organic matter. Large, white narcissus-like fragrant flowers have a lovely scent. [LEARN CARE]

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Haworthia succulents, including the zebra plant, look like small aloes and are easy to care for indoors. Learn how to water and feed them.

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