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- Analysing dissertation prep brief.
- Thinking of possible leading questions.
- Preparing for formative, collecting research sources, images.
- Presenting my ideas of my possible topic and receiving feedback.
- Start to create a Progress Map.

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This month I am gathering loads information, researching for articles about the topic, trying to find out what I want to discus and where my question should lead.

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I aim to have a rough idea of what I would like to write in the chapters and start creating a Chapter Plan. Also, to have Ethic List finished by the start of March.

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- Think of different methods of research; secondary and primary.
- Start planning to  write a first draft of proposal.
- Start collecting research for Research Review.

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This month I start my intern and also I have work, so I will be doing my preparation for dissertation on weekends.
- I will research more in history of head gear.
- Will be founding more examples of appropriation of head coverings.
- I want to meet people and interview them.
- Also, I will be capturing pictures in public by my phone of people with head wear and coverings.

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- This month I would like to see a lot exhibitions and events around my topic.
V&A museum
- Would like to find a communities and have a chat with the people who wears hijabs or turbans.

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- I'm going to target to have gathered all my historical research for the first chapter and start doing a draft.
- Continue to meet and interview people and build different opinions.
- Continue to take pictures and build a photo archive.

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- I hope to have all my research gathered for the two chapters.
- Continue of writing a messy draft, to have my thoughts played down.
- Continue taking pictures.

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- This month I will have a break.
- Still going to look out for new articles and read a book.
- Going to follow Vogue news and catch up with new colletions.

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- I want to have the majority of the research completed that will inform the main body of my dissertation.
- Will create a bullet point list of what includes in each chapter and what research to use.
- Start drafting the first and second chapters.
- Rereading and correcting the draft.

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https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/encyclopedia-chapter?docid=b-9781847888594&tocid=b-9781847888594-EDch10718&st=Head+scarf#b-9781847888594-EDch10718-0002488

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Politics and Dress: Women's Religious Head Covers

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At first glance, politics and dress seem to be strange bedfellows. On closer study, however, it becomes clear that a wide variety of agendas are enacted through the medium of cloth and clothing, and none are more heated than debates on women's head covers.

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https://www.rampleyandco.com/pages/history-of-scarves

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https://www.dw.com/en/unveiling-the-history-of-the-headscarf/a-45908647

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It's a piece of fabric that is laden with meaning: the headscarf. And over its 4,000-year-old history spanning the globe, it has taken on, lost and represented meanings that are as diverse - and sometimes even as contradictory - as the manifestations of the head-covering cloth itself.

Starting Thursday, a special exhibition titled "Veiled, Unveiled! The Headscarf" at Vienna's Weltmuseum (World Museum) hopes to broaden perspectives on the piece of fabric.

Photographs, drawings, videos and high fashion designs are just some of the items that make up the show's 17 independent positions on the headscarf.

Suzanne Jongmans' photograph from her series 'Mind over Matter' uses recycled materials to recall works by Flemish masters featuring women with head coverings
An idea born of current events
While the exhibition covers millennia, it was a series of social and political events last October that triggered the idea for the show, curator Axel Steinmann told DW. He highlighted a pharmacy's advertisement featuring a woman with a headscarf, the introduction of hijab-wearing emojis, and Saudi Arabia's decision to grant citizenship to a "female" robot that - unlike the country's female inhabitants - must not cover its head in public.

In this context, Steinmann said, it is important to realize that the headscarf has been influenced by its political and moral surroundings throughout history, both in the East and in the West.

"The goal of the exhibition is to reveal the transformations that the headscarf has undergone and that have been forgotten, repressed or those that are simply unknown," Steinmann said.

The exhibition's photographs alone show everything from traditional Christian veils to elaborate haute couture head coverings to abstracted head wraps. And while one drawing shows a wide-eyed young woman in a prize-winning stylish summer outfit complete with knotted headscarf, another sketch from Tehran depicts a fully-veiled woman, her face hidden, turning out a slim ankle in high heels. Overlaps and contrasts abound across the exhibition's items.
Read more: Half of Iran wants to drop headscarf laws: government report

One object, a plurality of meanings
Haute couture designs by Susanne Bisovsky show women wearing intricate headscarves as part of her 'Viennese Chic' collection

Today, the headscarf is often at the center of polemical debates in the Western world that focus on the various head coverings worn by some Muslim women. Yet the practice of covering one's head has been an integral part of all Abrahamic religions - Judaism, Christianity and Islam - and its roots go back even thousands more years to ancient Mesopotamian civilizations.

The exhibition doesn't present the headscarf as a clothing object that is always one of choice, and it doesn't shy away from contemporary controversies over head coverings in Islam, acknowledging in its description that "some Muslim girls and young women are forced to veil themselves" in public.

The show also acknowledges the fact that in general, a headscarf "far too often ... still represents a man's word on a woman's body." Yet curator Steinmann highlighted that a headscarf cannot only be seen as a religious expression of female subordination to men.

By placing these perspectives side-by-side with those where the headscarf is a sign of Christian piousness or female emancipation or even high style, "Veiled and Unveiled" shows how head coverings are anything but the exclusive domain of one religion or culture or worldview.

Headscarves: The universal accessory?
Nilbar Güres' video 'Soyunma/Undressing' addresses the personal reasons behind why some Muslim women choose to cover themselves

The Weltmuseum's show includes exhibits from North Africa, Southwest and Central Asia, Guatemala and Indonesia, though Steinmann points out that even this geographic range can't comprehensively capture the headscarf as a topic.

The exhibition also highlights headscarves worn by men. "For me, it was important to show that head coverings for men (turbans, yarmulkes, etc.) were also determined by historic and cultural-religious aspects in combination with rules of dress."

As is the case for women, religious prescriptions sometimes call on men to cover their head before God, such as in the Talmud, a central text in Judaism. But men also donned head coverings as fashion statements. The 18th-century trend of men posing for portraits with turbans was "a transcultural masquerade of staged masculinity," Steinmann said.

The exhibition's crisscrossing across gender, geography and era raises the question: Are headscarves a universal accessory then? The answer is not that straight-forward, Steinmann said.

"But the head, just like the body, has been decorated or covered in all cultures throughout all time."

Yarmulke, mitra or veil: religious head coverings across the globe

Hats and bonnets

The Amish are a conservative Christian group in North America that originated in the tradition of the Anabaptist movement in Switzerland and southern Germany. The first Amish fled to the US in the early 18th century to escape religious persecution. They live simple lives, and shun modern technology and conveniences. The women wear plain bonnets; the men wear straw or felt hats.

Author: Klaus Krämer (db)

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Unveiling the history of the headscarf | DW | 17.10.2018

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It's a piece of fabric that is laden with meaning: the headscarf. And over its 4,000-year-old history spanning the globe, it has taken on, lost and represented meanings that are as diverse - and sometimes even as contradictory - as the manifestations of the head-covering cloth itself.

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https://www.stylist.co.uk/fashion/balaclava-trend-hijab-muslim-women/612047

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Fashion

Written by Hafsa Lodi

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Hafsa Lodi, journalist and author of Modesty: A Fashion Paradox, discusses how the balaclava trend highlights the double-standards of the fashion industry.

Hair-topping headwear has become increasingly en vogue. From Y2K bandanas crafted from cotton ginghams to berets and bucket hats à la Emily In Paris, accessories that coincidentally cover one's hair are gaining popularity among style-conscious women. Yet hijabs, despite having gained more representation in fashion, are for the most part excluded from this narrative of normalised, mainstream headwear.

So when balaclavas, which essentially cover the same area as a hijab, recently began trending on TikTok, many Muslim women were quick to point out the similarities between the two accessories, and the opposing connotations they held. One is being deemed fashionable, while the other is often a symbol of oppression or extremism in the mainstream Western media, and has provoked widespread bans in many European countries. "A balaclava is trendy but a hijab is a threat, sad society," tweeted one user.

As a Muslim woman myself, I don't cover my hair, but have a great deal of respect for those who choose to (and a disdain for those patriarchal families that enforce it). Regardless of why Muslim women may choose to cover their hair - be it for religious beliefs, cultural customs or political statements, hijab, like overall modesty, is a personal decision and journey.

But the spotlight on turbans, headscarves, bonnets and balaclavas in fashion has raised concern over how we endorse and celebrate body autonomy. Some segments of society are free to dip in and out of style trends that cover their hair, but those who chose to commit to hair-covering for religious or cultural reasons, remain ostracised.

"Why is it "mysterious" and "artistic" when Kim Kardashian dons an all-black, face-covering get-up to the Met Gala, but barbaric when a Muslim woman makes the decision to cover her body in a burqa?"

Double standards

Modest fashion has been booming over the past half-decade, with retailers the world over catering to Muslim spending power - the retail niche is expected to be valued at $402 billion (£295 billion) by 2024. On one hand, designers like Gucci, Marc Jacobs and Tommy Hilfiger are sending some models down the runways with headscarves, or better yet, recruiting hijabi models like Halima Aden and Ikram Abdi Omar for their campaigns and shows. Yet, an unshakeable sense of hypocrisy remains ever-present, looming over the heads of women who have dressed this way for years due to faith-based reasons.

Diverse, scarfed faces on billboards and magazine covers are great, but what is the point of inclusion if it's reserved solely for the realm of star-studded, high-fashion glamour? Why is it "mysterious" and "artistic" when Kim Kardashian dons an all-black, face-covering get-up to the Met Gala, but barbaric when a Muslim woman makes the decision to cover her body in a burqa?

Hafsa Lodi's book Modesty: A Fashion Paradox dissected the complexities of dressing modestly in a world where "sex sells".

Similar contradictions surfaced with the Covid-19 pandemic, when face-masking became obligatory in some countries to help curb the spread of the virus. Ironically, European nations like France upheld their strict niqab bans, even though they cover the same facial area as medical face masks do. Burkinis, burqas and niqabs remain outlawed in areas of Europe and Canada - cities where balaclavas might be perceived as perfectly acceptable winter-wear. Muslim women have responded with social media campaigns like #handsoffmyhijab, which gained momentum when France proposed its Separatism Bill banning the hijab in public places on minors under 18.

While such hypocritical bans make Islamophobic politics and prejudices quite evident, fashion fads are far less sinister. The similarities between balaclavas and hijabs are merely coincidental, and Muslim women cannot claim ownership over every head-covering garment. One user on Twitter commented, "Is a 'balaclava' not just a whitewashed hijab?" It actually isn't. Knitted balaclavas were historically worn by Prussian, Polish and even British soldiers to keep warm during battle, and many athletes also wear them for warmth while snowboarding and skiing.

"What is the point of inclusion if it's reserved solely for the realm of star-studded, high-fashion glamour?"

Hijab-wearing model Halima Aden quit the industry in November 2020, citing compromised beliefs and feeling like a "minority within a minority".

Balaclavas can be stylish and cosy, offering practicality and functionality (and newfound TikTok style cred), and are by no means copycats of Muslim headscarves. Not to mention, headscarves are not exclusive to Muslim women - they were common among early women of all three Abrahamic faiths. But Christian women aren't spearheading the social media debates about balaclavas because veiled nuns, for the most part, are treated with respect and sanctity in the Western media, whereas everyday veiled Muslim women are regarded as suspicious and threatening.

Difficult questions

After my book, Modesty: A Fashion Paradox was released in 2020, I was asked numerous times whether I thought that modesty in fashion was reflective of a fleeting trend rather than any true appreciation for cultural dress codes, whether the usage of hijabi models was tokenistic and not indicative of true inclusion, and whether mainstream retailers entering the modest fashion space were culturally-appropriating Middle Eastern styles and threatened smaller, faith-based labels who had been serving this demographic for far longer. These remain difficult to answer, and the question of trending balaclavas, trivial as it may seem, is also situated here in this murky area of the modest fashion space.

"Fashion may be fickle, faith is not, and it's only fair for both style incentives to flourish without prejudice"

Like many Muslim women, I'm thrilled that "modest" and "fashion" are finally words being used together - that layering a slip dress over a blouse can be considered stylish and not frumpy, and that hijabi women are appearing on magazine covers across the globe. It's certainly an improvement from two decades ago, when you'd be hard-pressed to find a visibly-Muslim woman fronting a mainstream fashion campaign.

Hijabi women in particular, are proudly proving their appetite for faith and fashion, appropriating micro-trends in unexpected ways: bucket hats, for instance, are being worn on top of or in place of hijabs, and pearl-emblazoned barrette hairclips, meant to be showcased on hair, are being used to decorate the sides of headscarves. Balaclavas too might become a convenient cross-over style for veiled women who look for alternative - not to mention warmer - ways to cover their heads.

As we continue to see a far-reaching merging of faith and fashion, it would be nice to see this spirit of acceptance, diversity and collaboration reflected on a wider scale too. The same enthusiasm for fashion fads that cover the hair could be extended into activism against hijab bans, and campaigning to give Muslim women the same rights to clothing and expression that other women are afforded.

Social media, which helped catapult modest fashion to the mainstream in the first place, seems like the best place for awareness and activism to take root. For while fashion may be fickle, faith is not, and it's only fair for both style incentives to flourish without prejudice.

Images: courtesy of Getty and writer.

Copyright © 2010-2022 Stylist

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Some Muslim women are finding the balaclava trend problematic, this is why

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Skip to content Fashion Written by Hafsa Lodi background Layer 1 Add this article to your list of favourites Hafsa Lodi, journalist and author of Modesty: A Fashion Paradox, discusses how the balaclava trend highlights the double-standards of the fashion industry. Hair-topping headwear has become increasingly en vogue.

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https://www.dw.com/en/win-or-lose-nike-launches-pro-hijab/a-37869127

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Many Muslim women athletes will now be able to sport a swoosh - on their heads. Nike hopes to make the "Pro Hijab" available for purchase in early 2018, the Oregon sporting giant said in a statement on Wednesday launching their sporting version of the Muslim headscarf, the hijab.

The Nike Pro Hijab is made of elite performance materials

Developed in combination with elite Muslim athletes, including UAE figure skater Zahra Lari and Olympic weightlifter Amna Al Haddad, the "Pro Hijab" is designed to address issues faced by many athletes cover their heads: sweat-absorbing materials like cotton that chafe and weigh down as well as problems of adjusting and securing the Islamic garment in place.

Like other performance gear from Nike, the "Pro Hijab" is made of a flexible, breathable material that wicks away sweat. It also features an adjustable elastic band to accommodate the varying needs of different athletic disciplines and keep the garment in place under other sports equipment, such as fencing masks.
An individual choice
Choosing to cover one's self, a visible manifestation of religious observation for many Muslim women, has become a controversial topic in the past few years as geopolitical events have inflamed fears of extremism tied to Islam.

The hijab has become an issue of much controversy globally in recent years

While some see hijab as a sign of modesty, others view it as a sign of empowerment, and yet others still as a marker of oppression. For instance, after the commercial release of the so-called burkini, French politicians banned the full-body swimsuit in summer 2016 saying it symbolized female enslavement.

Nike-sponsored Amna Al Haddad praised Nike for throwing a spotlight on powerful female Muslim athletes. In an email interview with DW, she described the apparel-maker as an "innovation company" that prioritizes athletes.

"Nike truly cares to cater for all kind of athletes and their needs - as such Nike took notice of the rising number of covered Muslim athletes through stories like mine and many others," she said.
Is Nike trying to score market points?
But criticism of the "Pro Hijab" has come from members of Muslim communities as well, with some viewing it as a marketing gimmick.

In an interview with DW, Aaisha Dadi Patel, a journalist at Daily Vox in South Africa, said Nike's hijab launch was "pure capitalism."

"I'm really not a fan of the product or the hype around it," Patel said. "Nike are using their supposed support for Muslim women as a marketing tool."

As an active Muslim woman, Patel said she has been swimming and hiking whilst keeping her hair covered for years.

"Nike's hijab is nothing new. Products like this have been available for years and I've never had to compromise by exercise," she told DW. "We shouldn't be giving Nike all the credit. This isn't revolutionary."
Growing awareness
In 2016, Danish company Hummel designed football jerseys for Afghanistan's women's team incorporating a built-in hijab. The Netherlands-based Capsters, who bills itself as the "world leading brand in sport hijabs," meanwhile offers a full line-up of head coverings for land and water sports.

With the company's release, Nike is tapping into a major market: the State of the Global Islamic Economy report 2015/2016, penned by Thomson Reuters, valued Muslim consumer spending across travel and lifestyle sectors at $1.8 trillion (1.7 trillion euros) in 2014 - a number which is expected to rise to $2.6 trillion (2.45 trillion euros) in the next three years.

Haddad admitted the "concept of a sport Hijab is not entirely new as many have campaigned in the past, and there are other options in the market."

Still, she sees the release as an important step forward, both for Islamic performance sporting wear and for global awareness on dress as an individual choice for Muslim women."

"Whether a Muslim woman wears or doesn't wear a hijab, it's her choice." Haddad said. "It is great to see that now there is more awareness about Muslim female athletes across the world and our role in sports, as sports truly brings people together despite differences.

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Win or lose: Nike launches Pro Hijab | DW | 09.03.2017

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Many Muslim women athletes will now be able to sport a swoosh - on their heads. Nike hopes to make the "Pro Hijab" available for purchase in early 2018, the Oregon sporting giant said in a statement on Wednesday launching their sporting version of the Muslim headscarf, the hijab.

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https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/gucci-turban-sikh-trnd/index.html

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It's only been three months since Gucci had to apologize for its blackface sweater. But it seems the brand hasn't learned its lesson.

The Italian fashion house made headlines earlier this week for its "Indy Full Turban," which was listed for sale on the website of luxury department store Nordstrom for a whopping $790.

The blue turban closely resembled the style of turbans worn by millions of Sikhs around the world, and people in the Sikh community were offended, calling out both Gucci and Nordstrom for cultural appropriation, insensitivity and the hefty price tag.

Nordstrom eventually pulled the turban from its website and apologized.

"We have decided to stop carrying this product and have removed it from the site," the retailer wrote in response to a complaint on Twitter. "It was never our intent to disrespect this religious and cultural symbol. We sincerely apologize to anyone who may have been offended by this."

Gucci still hasn't addressed the matter.

Here's why Sikhs took issue with Gucci's turban.

Sikhs get attacked for wearing turbans

Turbans are the most visible markers of Sikh identity, and they often make Sikhs the targets of hate-fueled attacks, discrimination and bullying. That Gucci and Nordstrom would profit off the same style of turban without any understanding of its significance is a blatant example of cultural appropriation, some members of the Sikh community say.

"When companies like Gucci appropriate articles of faith, like the turban they are trying to capitalize on, they do not take into consideration the discrimination that Sikhs face while adhering to the tenets of their faith," the Sikh Coalition wrote in a Facebook post on Thursday.

"We're attacked and killed for how we look, and now corporations get to profit off that same look?" Simran Jeet Singh wrote.

"This is beyond aggravating. Did someone at @gucci even bother to figure out what a dastaar (turban) means to Sikhs? Did it cross your minds to consider the history behind our identity? My people are discriminated against, even killed, for wearing a turban," Aasees Kaur wrote.

The turban isn't a fashion accessory

Another point of frustration for Sikhs was that the Gucci turban was being marketed as a fashion accessory -- a hat that one could simply put on and take off with ease and at will.

The turban isn't just something Sikhs plop on their heads before they head out the door in the morning. It's a symbol of faith and religious tradition considered sacred by Sikhs. Tying a turban is a painstaking and thoughtful process that involves taking a long piece of cloth and wrapping it neatly, fold by fold over one's uncut hair -- another symbol of the Sikh faith.

"Dear @gucci, the Sikh Turban is not a hot new accessory for white models but an article of faith for practising Sikhs. Your models have used Turbans as 'hats' whereas practising Sikhs tie them neatly fold-by-fold. Using fake Sikhs/Turbans is worse than selling fake Gucci products," Harjinder Singh Kukreja wrote on Twitter.

Another user had some advice for anyone who might have considered dropping $800 on the "Indy Full Turban."

"Dear NON-SIKHS .... don't waste $750 buying a fake n fancy @gucci turban from @Nordstrom !! You can inbox me your location and I can arrange FREE lessons in Turban tying in most places and provide cloth material..FREE ! Any colour."

The Sikh turban is a symbol of equality

Selling a luxury version of the Sikh turban for nearly $800 is contradictory to everything the turban represents and ignores the history from which it came about, some members of the Sikh community say.

While the turban dates back thousands of years and has been worn by many cultures across different faiths, the Sikh practice of wearing a turban has its origins in India.

Turbans were historically worn by royalty and high officials as a symbol of elite status. And under the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, who came into power in 1658, only the Islamic ruling class were permitted to wear turbans.

The Sikhs' leaders, also known as the Gurus, rejected social hierarchies and adopted turbans as an act of resistance. At the command of Guru Gobind Singh, followers of the Sikh faith began wearing turbans over their uncut hair to assert the equality and freedom of all people.

"For Sikhs, the turban is a crown. It is a sign of equality, that no person is greater than the other. That is why Sikhs have taken what was traditionally a sign of royalty and made it into everyday wear. It is meant to be cheap and accessible for all," Jasvir Singh wrote.

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here's why sikhs were offended by this $790 gucci turban - cnn

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Here's why Sikhs were offended by this $790 Gucci turban

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It's only been three months since Gucci had to apologize for its blackface sweater. But it seems the brand hasn't learned its lesson. The Italian fashion house made headlines earlier this week for its "Indy Full Turban," which was listed for sale on the website of luxury department store Nordstrom for a whopping $790.

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https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/feb/08/beyonce-balaclava-what-does-it-mean

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What a balaclava! Is the controversial headwear the new hoodie?

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Beyoncé wears a head covering in her latest Ivy Park collection and Celine put them on the catwalk. In the coldest week of the year, is there more to the headpiece than staying warm?

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https://www.vogue.com/vogueworld/article/babushka-headscarf-street-style-trend

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The babushka has been having a renaissance. And when I say "babushka," I don't mean that a pious, potato-schlepping Russian grandmother is making a comeback. Instead, I am talking about her headgear. Fun fact: When a kerchief-donning A$AP Rocky refers to a "babushka," he means the scarf, which is indeed something that a Russian grandmother wears. But in the Russian language, a "babushka" means, well, a grandmother. That's besides the point, however: The babushka has made rounds on the runway over the past few seasons at Vetements and Gucci. Rappers and musicians have since adopted the look: The aforementioned Rocky wore one adorably cinched around his chin at LACMA's annual art and film gala last November as well as this past April, and Frank Ocean beamed in one this past January on Instagram. Soon after, in February, Kendall Jenner took the look for a stroll in Milan, tying a silk scarf under her chin in a more elegant Grace Kelly way. Then in New York just last month, Chloë Sevigny wore a a larger-than-life scarf, very reminiscent of my very own Slavic great-grandmother (though hers came sans the plaid Simone Rocha coat, of course).

While the look was once reserved for habitual churchgoers and ancient borscht brewers, young Russians themselves are taking the trend for a spin in the day-to-day. Look back at the street style shots this past Russian Fashion Week, captured by Style du Monde, and you'll see women in their 20s (that's a quarter the age of the standard babushka!) walking through Moscow with a head covering and contemporary garb. Though it seems like a new fashion phenomenon in Russia among young people, much of the Russian youth had been wearing babushkas long before the scarves hit the runways. Moscow-based 27-year-old consultant Svetlana Bevz has worn one since 2017, noting that she likes "mixing old and new together." (She adopts other babushka-loved trends, such as toting along a pretty plastic bag.) Another is Gucci-beloved model Unia Pakhomova, who puts the appeal simply: "It just looks cute on me, obviously." It sure does.

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The Babushka Scarf Is Having a Full-Blown Renaissance

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The babushka has been having a renaissance. And when I say "babushka," I don't mean that a pious, potato-schlepping Russian grandmother is making a comeback. Instead, I am talking about her headgear. Fun fact: When a kerchief-donning A$AP Rocky refers to a "babushka," he means the scarf, which is indeed something that a Russian grandmother wears.