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Lace holes on domestic machine.

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I chose to embellish the bottom trim on rather than link it because I wanted the edge to be raw to match the rest of the samples on the body. Compared to the other samples, it is neat due to not being distressed or frayed, but it still adds to the overall affect of the garment. I find it a very nice detail.

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Final trim. I chose to use the industrial rather than the domestic as I wanted a trim with a bit more weight to it, so the double-bed was preferable.

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When I made the miniature jumper fronts, I was very process led and did not pre-plan the pattern of the embellished pieces. Due to the concept of ruin within my project, I worry that meticulously planning out the final embellishing would lose this ruined appearance and appear too perfect. Rather than planning out beforehand the layout of my jumper, I decided to continue to be process led and work with the knits on front of me, figuring out what looks good in the moment.

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Visualising the potential pattern of my embellished jumper pieces.

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Look 2

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Look 1

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end

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All neck trims, arm trims, and seams linked together using the hand linker.

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Lacehole sample knitted last semester.

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I decided to go back through my earlier work to see if I could draw inspiration for the trim. I recalled some earlier work I had done of lace holes with rope pulled through. I decided this would make a fitting trim, tying together some of my earlier research.

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However, I was also unhappy at the idea of leaving the edge of the entire garment raw - I knew it needed some sort of trim to bring it together.

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Original rib measuring at 40cm in width - knitted as wide as 5 gauge industrial machine would allow. Would require approximately 5 of these ribs linked together to fit around jumper.

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For look 1, I had originally planned on including a rib trim around the bottom of the garment. However, due to the size of the garment, I would have to knit multiple ribs and link them together. After seeing the visible line from linking ribs together in previous samples, I knew this was not something I wanted to do.

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Neck trim after correction cut.

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I used the same width/tension for the neck trim of look 2, just with half the length. However, once on the jumper I realised due to the yarn being slightly finer, the neck piece was too loose. I cut and re-linked the sides of the neck piece to correct this.

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I also included panels of twisted elongated stitches in the body of the jumpers.

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Look 1

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Because of the punch card floats, there was lots of stray strands of yarn. I decided to include some of these in my final looks and remove the rest - taking a "less is more" approach, and I did not want the garments to become too busy and overwhelming to view.

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I used the same sizing for both jumpers.

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Once finding a layout I was happy with, I then cut the samples, fray and decay the edges, and embellish them together.

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Typography designed by myself on Chart Minder. Hand selected on domestic knit machine.

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Fairisle pattern designed by myself - this pattern was too wide to turn into a punchcard so this had to be hand selected on domestic knit machine. Designed on Chart Minder.

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Punchcards used.

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For the base of the jumper, I only knitted from an inch below the arm hole upwards. Because I knew I would be entirely embellishing other samples on the rest of the torso, I decided it would be a waste of time and materials, and overall unnecessary to knit the rest of the torso when it would just be covered anyway. I chose to fully fashion these top pieces rather than cut and sew because such a large amount of the jumper would be cut and embellished, I wanted to have a solid base to work on. I also prefer working fully-fashioned as it is a more concrete way of gauging size and produces a lovely finish.

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I wanted look 1's neck piece to be very long and folded back over.

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A selection of the samples I used for the jumpers.

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Sleeves for look 1 - twisted elongated stitches. This method requires no use of the carriage, just the needles. Each row is elongated stitches, then twisting them, all by hand. This method can be time consuming, but gives the desired look of appearing like a fishing net.

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Must be pinned out and ironed flat after knitting to stretch out.

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Since the main body of my jumpers will be mainly embellished patchwork, I decided to take the measurements of other menswear jumpers to gauge the sizing.

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To map out the placement of my embellished pieces and the exact sizing of the jumper, I drew out the approximate shape on pattern paper.

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Jumper 1 roll neck trial run - 150 rows on 5 gauge industrial.

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Fully fashioned jumper front upper half. Domestic machine knitted 2/11 supersoft lambswool. As shown on male mannequin.

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I combined the measurements for jumper 3, and sized up my miniature jumper front, to figure out the exact measurements for my fully fashioned jumper section.

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Next men's medium - acrylic wool blend.
NL to SS - 15cm
Length of neck trim - 17cm
SS to sleeve end inc cuff - 69cm
Underarm to sleeve end inc cuff - 53cm
Chest width from underarm to underarm - 59cm
Underarm down side seam - 47cm

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Hugo Boss men's regular fit - cotton linen blend.
NL to SS inc trim - 19cm
NL to SS without trim - 15cm
SS to sleeve end inc cuff - 68cm
Underarm to sleeve end inc cuff - 51cm
Chest width from underarm to underarm - 59cm
Underarm down side seam - 47cm

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Gant men's large - 100% cotton
NL to SS inc trim - 24cm
NL to SS without trim - 16cm
SS to sleeve end inc cuff - 65cm
Under arm to sleeve end inc cuff - 51cm
Chest width from underarm to underarm - 55cm
Underarm down side seam - 46cm