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Do you know about the changing food habits

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How to Change Eating Habits with Mindful Eating

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Transportation of food items

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The environmental impact of transporting food is measured in food miles, indicating how much carbon dioxide (CO ₂) is produced to transport a tonne of food over a unit of distance (kilometres or miles). Cargo ships have the lowest CO ₂ emissions, with between 15 and 30 grammes per tonne of food per kilometre, followed by trains, cars and lorries. Aeroplanes have the greatest impact, emitting between 570 and 1580 grammes per tonne per kilometre.

Once consumers realise the environmental cost of transporting food halfway around the world, they may wonder if it is acceptable for food products to be available all year long. But the problem is more complicated than it seems. Carbon dioxide emissions produced during transportation are just part of a food product's carbon footprint, used to calculate greenhouse gas emissions during the production, distribution and consumption of food.

It is particularly important to also take into account the energy used to cultivate, store and process foodstuffs. The four-week journey for a fresh spring apple to travel in a container ship from New Zealand to Europe consumes less energy than a local apple kept in cold storage for several months. Similarly, a kilo of strawberries exported from Spain by lorry is less damaging to the climate than a kilo of strawberries grown locally in a heated greenhouse.

From an environmental perspective, making the right choice is not always clear at all, and buying local is not necessarily more environmentally-friendly. Choice may, however, be guided by socio-economic concerns, with the idea of supporting regional businesses and the growth of small producers.

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The environmental impact of transporting food is measured in food miles, indicating how much carbon dioxide (CO 2) is produced to transport a tonne of food over a unit of distance (kilometres or miles). Cargo ships have the lowest CO 2 emissions, with between 15 and 30 grammes per tonne of food per kilometre, followed by trains, cars and lorries.

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Storing of grains

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Storing grains can be fairly difficult for beginners, most people do not know what kinds of grains are good for long storage or how to actually store them correctly. Luckily for you in this article, you will learn everything you need to know about storing grain for the long term.
You can store grains long term at home by using food grade buckets, vacuum sealers, mylar bags, oxygen absorbers, silica gel desiccants, making your own flour, rotating grains, never mixing grains, using labels, storing grains in your basement, and by storing grains at an ideal temperature and humidity levels.
If you are planning to store grains in bulk than my personal recommendation is to use a vacuum sealer, which seals the bags with heat Click here to check it out on Amazon.com

Grains are a valuable asset to any prepper, not only you can use them for cooking and growing crops but grains will also be a valuable commodity after a major SHTF event. However, most people make the false assumption that buying a couple of bags of grain and dumping them in the corner of a basement and a garage is adequate long term storage for the grains. Opening up these bags of grains which are not stored correctly after just a few years and most of the grains would be unedible.

In addition to storing grains long term, you should also consider storing canned foods, check out my article on Longest lasting canned foods ( Up to 30+ years ).

There is nothing special about the normal food grade buckets although some stores might want you to think that these are some high-value items. Usually, these are made of everyday plastic, although if you worried about BPA which causes cancer there are some that are made out of plastic which does not contain any BPA in them. A food grade bucket is a plastic bucket with an airtight lid on it, the only major difference between them is the thickness of the actual plastic.

In my article How long can you store bottled water? ( In your Home, Garage or Car ) I have come to the conclusion that not all food grade buckets and bottles are created equally, some of them are not well suited for long term storage.

Vacuum sealing your grains is a good idea, while vacuum sealing all the oxygen gets vacuumed out of the container. This prevents any bugs damage the grains and any eggs from hatching as these do need oxygen. Some people in addition to vacuum sealing they also put the grains in the freezer, although this isn't the best idea as I have already explained above. One of the downsides of vacuum sealing is that most vacuum sealers come with specialized bags and these are rather small.

If the vacuum sealer has also a heat sealer that means you can use any plastic bag for storing your grain, while this does not sound so helpful it actually is when it comes to the matter of size. Preppers usually store grain in bulk, this will be extremely difficult if you have just a limited number of specially designed vacuum sealing zip lock bags, but with a heat sealer there you have no more limitations when it comes to the size of the bag. If you also want to preserve meat then check out my recent article How to preserve meat ( Top 12 Methods ).

These are aluminum bags specially created for long-time food storage and usually, these also come with oxygen absorbers included. Mylar bags are excellent for preserving food for a long time, although they are kind of expensive to bulk store grains in them, but they are still a viable option.

If you are not using vacuum sealing then oxygen absorbers are a must for long term grain storage. Oxygen absorbers absorb the oxygen from the bags and food-grade containers. This is very useful as most grains are contaminated with bugs and parasites, and they can not survive without oxygen. Once the oxygen absorbers get exposed to oxygen they will start working immediately, most of these oxygen absorbers have different colored pills, and once the oxygen absorber is no longer able to absorb any oxygen the color of the pill will change.

The color of the pill will differ from each manufacturer, just read the instructions before you use them. There have been a lot of reports of people eating oxygen absorbers, either by accident or by confusing them with a seasoning packet. In fairness, most oxygen absorbers do look like seasoning packets and if you have never seen an oxygen absorber you might confuse it with a seasoning packet.

Although there has been no test made on the side effects of eating oxygen absorbers as these are not made for consumption. Generally, these contain iron, clay, and salt which are not toxic, but during the manufacturing process, they could get cross-contaminated with other more toxic materials. Before buying any oxygen absorber make sure you do ample research as this is not the case as one size fits them all, some people have larger containers than other and as to how big should the container be for the oxygen absorber to work correctly will be noted on the oxygen absorbers box.

How to know if the oxygen absorber is still good

As mentioned above most oxygen absorbers have a small colored pill which will change color once the oxygen absorber is not absorbing oxygen. However, there are some oxygen absorbers which do not have this color graded pill, in this case, you have to touch the oxygen absorber, if it feels soft and jelly than it is still functioning correctly, if it feels hard than in most cases it is no longer functioning correctly.

Can you reuse oxygen absorbers

NO, oxygen absorbers cannot be reused as they rely on the chemical reaction between the iron, clay and the salt. Once the iron has been fully oxidized ( rusted ) the oxygen absorbent will no longer work and you have to throw it away.

Silica gel is used to absorb moisture, these are extremely important if your local environment is high in humidity. Some people think that silica gel replaces the oxygen absorber but this is false as one absorbs moisture and the other absorbs oxygen. Silica gel is great especially if you have flour in your food stockpile, as these are very sensitive to high humidity. You can also use silica gel desiccants for your salt, sugar, spices, flours and any types of powdered food types.

Although most people consider silica gel to be extremely dangerous once ingest, however, silica gel is not chemically active and it is not considered toxic. The problem with silica gel, when put in containers, could be ingested either by accident or by confusing it with some kind of spice packet. Although silica gel is not considered toxic it could still be a potential choking hazard especially for infants and for pets.

Flour has a lot lower shelf life than any grain has, usually around 6-9 months. If you want to stretch out for an as long time as possible the shelf life of your grains you should store grains and then make flour from them. There are a lot of specialized tools which grind grains into flour, my personal recommendation is to get a manually operated one as during a major SHTF there are high chances that there will be no electricity.

Never ever mix grains, neither different kinds of grains or the same types of grains with new grains. Different kinds of grains are contaminated by different kinds of bacteria, parasites, and bugs, mixing all of them together would cross-contaminate them. In case of mixing the same types of grains together but with new grains, there is still a big probability of contamination, and as grains do have a shelf life once the oldest one gets spoiled so will the new grains also get spoiled.

Storing grains in your basement

People who have access to a basement generally store the grains there, although you should constantly keep an eye out for the humidity as some older houses could form black mold in the basement. If you notice this you need to clean that asap as it will contaminate your grains eventually. Never ever store fuel or other chemicals in the same space where you store your grains, these create dangerous fumes and the chemical particles can penetrate most plastic food grade buckets eventually damaging your grains.

Grain storage ideal temperature and humidity levels

As mentioned above grain is very sensitive to temperature changes and to high humidity. Generally speaking the ideal temperature for long term grain storage is between 60°-70° F, anything below or above that could damage the seeds. If the temperature is to low you might end up with condensation on the grains, which eventually will lead to other problems that will destroy the grains.

Generally speaking, if the temperature is higher then usually, the grains should be fine as long as the humidity levels are ideal. The ideal humidity level for long term storage of grains should be below 13%, anything above could kickstart the seeds germinating process as it absorbs moisture from the surrounding air.

Types of grain for long term storage

There are basically two types of grains, soft grains, and hard grains. Generally speaking, hard grains have a lot longer shelf life than soft grains but you can extend the shelf life of both hard grains and soft grains for a lot longer by storing them adequately. If you are buying your grains in bulk in large sacks these can have a lot of contaminants in them, form other types of grains to bugs, unhatched eggs, parasites, and even fungus. How long does wheat last in storage? Wheat lasts in storage around 9-13 years, provided that you have stored them correctly.

These are grains that do not have a strong outer shell that protects the actual seed. Soft grains are extremely sensitive to high humidity and water, while this is natural for most grains as the seeds will germinate if they can absorb enough water to kickstart the process. This is why soft grains also absorb water from the air if the humidity is high enough, this way they kickstart the germination process.

Although this is all fine and dandy from an evolutionary stand of a point when it comes to long term storage you want to stop the seeds from germinating at all cost. Once the seed germinates the seed is virtually gone due to the forming of the plant, this is one of the most sensitive periods of a plant which is the initial growing phase. Usually, most basements and garages used for storing grains long term do have enough humidity to kickstart this process although the plants usually do not survive beyond the first few days.

Hard grains are also safer to keep in a freezer than soft grains as these have little to no water in them provided they are not fresh and stored adequately. However, if the hard grains are fresh these are not safe to freeze as the frozen water in them will damage the seed. Make sure that your hard grains are as dry as possible, once they are there should be no reason to freeze them other than to kill the parasites and bugs living in the bag.

List of hard grains

What to look for in a food grade bucket

Before deciding which food grade bucket to get take a look at the bottom of the bucket if the bottom is smooth in such a way that the entirety of the bottom will be in contact with the ground do NOT buy them. These are made not only of cheap plastic which is usually a lot thinner than other food grade buckets but they can also leak after some wear and tear while you are pushing the bucket around on the ground.

Check if they have a handle and if they also have "legs" which is a protruding piece of plastic that limits the contact with the ground to only the plastic ring. Not only these will withstand much more tear and wear but it also insulates the food grade bucket a lot better. The last and most important piece is the actual lid make sure it fist and it is airtight, you might get lucky from using the lid of another bucket just make sure it fits correctly without the danger of the lid popping off. There are a lot of methods of storing grains, you do not necessarily need to use food grade buckets, but these are fairly common and cheap.

How to get food grade buckets for free

The industry around prepping is a very lucrative one, but as all industries, they will try to sell you some common item claiming that it has some kind of benefit to buying them. I have seen these "special" food grade buckets on some prepper websites going for $45 which is rather laughable. Generally, they also throw in an oxygen absorbent but even with this includes actual worth is less than $5.

PRO TIP: If you are shy or do not want to be considered rude, just buy some item from the bakery and politely ask about the food grade buckets, do NOT act all entitled that they should give them for you for free as they will throw them out, believe it or not, you are probably not the first person who would ask for free food buckets.

Storing grains long term takes some work, it is not enough to buy a sack of grains and just dump it in the basement. You need the proper containers with oxygen absorbers and silica gel, this way the container will have no oxygen and very little moisture, this will prolong the shelf life of the grains by a lot. Provided the grains are stored in a dark cool environment without much temperature fluctuations you could stretch out the shelf life of the grains virtually indefinitely.

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How to store grains long term at home ( Best Practices )

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Storing grains can be fairly difficult for beginners, most people do not know what kinds of grains are good for long storage or how to actually store them correctly. Luckily for you in this article, you will learn everything you need to know about storing grain for the long term.

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Threshing

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Threshing is the process of loosening the edible part of grain (or other crop) from the chaff to which it is attached. It is the step in grain preparation after reaping. Threshing does not remove the bran from the grain.

Threshing may be done by beating the grain using a flail on a threshing floor. Another traditional method of threshing is to make donkeys or oxen walk in circles on the grain on a hard surface. A modern version of this in some areas is to spread the grain on the surface of a country road so the grain may be threshed by the wheels of passing vehicles.

Hand threshing was laborious, with a bushel of wheat taking about an hour. In the late 18th century, before threshing was mechanized, about one-quarter of agricultural labor was devoted to it.

Industrialization of threshing began in 1786 with the invention of the threshing machine by Scotsman Andrew Meikle. Today, in developed areas, it is now mostly done by machine, usually by a combine harvester, which harvests, threshes, and winnows the grain while it is still in the field.

The cereal may be stored in a barn or silos.

A threshing bee was traditionally a bee in which local people gathered together to pitch in and get the season's threshing done. Such bees were sometimes festivals or events within larger harvest festivals. Today the original purpose is largely obsolete, but the festival tradition lives on in some modern examples that commemorate the past and include flea markets, hog wrestling, and dances.

Threshing with hand flails, Great Britain, c. 1750. Image from c. 1875.

A farmer works on his field threshing with yolks in old age

Video of a petrol-powered machine threshing rice in Hainan, China

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Threshing is the process of loosening the edible part of grain (or other crop) from the chaff to which it is attached. It is the step in grain preparation after reaping. Threshing does not remove the bran from the grain. Threshing may be done by beating the grain using a flail on a threshing floor.

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Harvesting

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Harvesting is the process of gathering a ripe crop from the fields. Reaping is the cutting of grain or pulse for harvest, typically using a scythe, sickle, or reaper. On smaller farms with minimal mechanization, harvesting is the most labor-intensive activity of the growing season. On large mechanized farms, harvesting utilizes the most expensive and sophisticated farm machinery, such as the combine harvester. Process automation has increased the efficiency of both the seeding and harvesting process. Specialized harvesting equipment utilizing conveyor belts to mimic gentle gripping and mass transport replaces the manual task of removing each seedling by hand. The term "harvesting" in general usage may include immediate postharvest handling, including cleaning, sorting, packing, and cooling.

The completion of harvesting marks the end of the growing season, or the growing cycle for a particular crop, and the social importance of this event makes it the focus of seasonal celebrations such as harvest festivals, found in many religions.

" Harvest", a noun, came from the Old English word hærf-est (coined before the Angles moved from Angeln to Great Britain) meaning " autumn" (the season), "harvest-time", or "August". (It continues to mean "autumn" in British dialect, and "season of gathering crops" generally.) "The harvest" came to also mean the activity of reaping, gathering, and storing grain and other grown products during the autumn, and also the grain and other grown products themselves. "Harvest" was also verbified: "To harvest" means to reap, gather, and store the harvest (or the crop). People who harvest and equipment that harvests are harvesters; while they do it, they are harvesting.

Crop failure (also known as harvest failure) is an absent or greatly diminished crop yield relative to expectation, caused by the plants being damaged, killed, or destroyed, or affected in some way that they fail to form edible fruit, seeds, or leaves in their expected abundance.

Crop failures can be caused by catastrophic events such as plant disease outbreaks (see e.g. Great Famine (Ireland)), heavy rainfall, volcanic eruptions, storms, floods, or drought, or by slow, cumulative effects of soil degradation, too-high soil salinity, erosion, desertification, usually as results of drainage, overdrafting (for irrigation), overfertilization, or overexploitation.

In history, crop failures and subsequent famines have triggered human migration, rural exodus, etc.

The proliferation of industrial monocultures, with their reduction in crop diversity and dependence on heavy use of artificial fertilizers and pesticides, has led to overexploited soils that are nearly incapable of regeneration. Over years, unsustainable farming of land degrades soil fertility and diminishes crop yield. With a steadily growing world population and local overpopulation, even slightly diminishing yields are already the equivalent to a partial harvest failure. Fertilizers obviate the need for soil regeneration in the first place, and international trade prevents local crop failures from developing into famines.

Harvesting commonly refers to grain and produce, but also has other uses: fishing and logging are also referred to as harvesting. The term harvest is also used in reference to harvesting grapes for wine. Within the context of irrigation, water harvesting refers to the collection and run-off of rainwater for agricultural or domestic uses. Instead of harvest, the term exploit is also used, as in exploiting fisheries or water resources. Energy harvesting is the process of capturing and storing energy (such as solar power, thermal energy, wind energy, salinity gradients, and kinetic energy) that would otherwise go unexploited. Body harvesting, or cadaver harvesting, is the process of collecting and preparing cadavers for anatomical study. In a similar sense, organ harvesting is the removal of tissues or organs from a donor for purposes of transplanting.

In a non-agricultural sense, the word "harvesting" is an economic principle which is known as an exit event or liquidity event. For example, if a person or business was to cash out of an ownership position in a company or eliminate their investment in a product, it is known as a harvest strategy.

Harvesting or Domestic Harvesting in Canada refers to hunting, fishing, and plant gathering by First Nations, Métis, and Inuit in discussions of aboriginal or treaty rights. For example, in the Gwich'in Comprehensive Land Claim Agreement, "Harvesting means gathering, hunting, trapping or fishing..." Similarly, in the Tlicho Land Claim and Self Government Agreement, "'Harvesting' means, in relation to wildlife, hunting, trapping or fishing and, in relation to plants or trees, gathering or cutting."

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Harvesting is the process of gathering a ripe crop from the fields. Reaping is the cutting of grain or pulse for harvest, typically using a scythe, sickle, or reaper. On smaller farms with minimal mechanization, harvesting is the most labor-intensive activity of the growing season.

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Protection of the crops

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Application of manure and fertilizers

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Application of Starter Fertilizer in Corn

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Sprinkler irrigation

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Sprinkler based irrigation at Savera Farms

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Basin irrigation

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Basin irrigation method, 8th class,8th lesson , production and management of food from plants, 132 p

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Furrow irrigation

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Flood irrigation

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Install AquaJet Irrigation System Review

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University of Wyoming Extension Sustainable Management of Rangeland Resources

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Exploring the Nature of Wyoming | UWyo Extension

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Flood irrigation is the most popular form of irrigation on farms throughout Wyoming. Exploring the Nature of Wyoming is produced by: University of Wyoming Extension Sustainable Management of Rangeland Resources http://www.uwyo.edu/uwe/programs/ag-and-natural-resources.html If you have range management questions we can help: http://www.uwyo.edu/uwesupport/ask_an_expert.html

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Irrigation

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Modern, Efficient Irrigation Systems Save Money For Farmers

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Weeding

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Sowing the seeds

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Sowing the seeds for speed breeding in vertical farms

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I have also grown seeds like garlic onion coriander and chilli

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Sowing the seeds

How to grow seeds

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Vegetable Gardening : How to Sow Seeds Outdoors

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Which are the agriculture practises

See this video carefully

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Agricultural Practices | Soil Preparation | Crop Production and Management | Don't Memorise

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What are kharif crops

Ans kharif crops are rice,maize and bajra.they are sown in the months from April to July and harvested in october

See this video what is kharif crop

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What is KHARIF CROP? What does KHARIF CROP mean? KHARIF CROP meaning, definition & explanation

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What are rabi crops
Ans rabi crops are wheat , gram and peas . They are sown in the month of November to december and harvested between the months of April and June