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Enjoy camping activities & much more with Forsyth Lodge. They are a jungle lodge in Central India helping you explore jungles of Satpura. Visit their website now.

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My First Trip Into The ‘Wild’ | Satpura Tiger Reserve | Forsyth Lodge  

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My First Trip Into The ‘Wild’ | Satpura Tiger Reserve | Forsyth Lodge  

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The area is naturally not the thick of the jungle, but a nature trail that cut through more open land and farmed areas inhabited by the villagers of Satpura. That’s not to say that it wasn’t nerve racking as these areas are known for great wildlife sightings as well.  Read this blog to know more.

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My First Trip Into the 'Wild'

With my heart pounding in my rib cage, I set off all by myself to explore the wilderness. I had been in the forest before, but always in a vehicle, and so being on foot and completely alone felt like a vulnerable but thrilling situation. Being my first time alone in place filled with unknownsurprises and wonders, I walked ahead with an open mind, ready to receive all that I could. My senses were heightened - I treaded very cautiously, almost as if I didn't want the earth to know of my presence.

The area I was walking through was naturally not the thick of the jungle, but a nature trail that cut through more open land and farmed areas inhabited by the villagers of Satpura. That's not to say that it wasn't nerve racking as these areas are known for great wildlife sightings as well.

It was open land across the unploughed fields, I stopped at every little thing that moved. I breathed in the fresh air that carried the wonders of the earth and smelled the scents of nature. I felt the trees, birds and the earth itself trying to communicate with me. Listen, I said to myself and that calmed my racing mind. I felt that I had become one with the world around me.

I saw small birds perched on the trees and the electric lines crossing the field. There were Bee Eaters, Doves, Parakeetsand others whose names I am yet to learn. I pulled out my new pocket diary and started writing down descriptions and details of the birds I didn't know. I recommend carrying a notebook, both as a memory aid to record what you do recognize and as a learning tool to look up what you don't.

The trail I was following turned swampy and as I walked into the slush I told myself nothing was going to stop me or make me turn around. There was no definite pathway, so I walked along the tire marks made by a vehicle. As I walked I realised that it was easier if I walked beside the path to avoid the mud getting into my shoes.

It had rained incessantly the previous day and the small stream had now bulged into heavy flow. I couldn't see any other way but to cross the stream. I stood there scanning the place, trying to decide how to do it, when Ifortunately saw two village women coming my way. I greeted them and asked if there was another way to cross the stream. One of them looked at me and just started walking across the stream. I followed her steps, watching carefully where she placed her foot. I was relievedto have crossed the stream, and was looking forward to walking with the women for a little way, when I realised that she had crossed the stream only to show me how its done. She went back from where she came to join her companion. My heart was filled with gratitude and I will admit that my eyes got a little blurry experiencing this innocent act of kindness. I talked with her for a little while and asked her about her family. Her name was Uliabai, she lived nearby and had a school going-child. She smiled at me as I thanked her with all my heart and allowed me to take a picture of her she justify, crossing the stream once more.

I walked ahead asking myself how thiscould get any better. I had hardly walkedout of the lodge and the morning was already so beautiful. Too happy too fast! I was faced with another challenge. I was looking at around 100 meters of swamp land. I stopped, clearing my mind of the joyful experience and became aware and conscious of where I was and what I should do next.

The previous day our team had gone for an evening walk to explore the area, when we were challenged by swamp land. It was only after walking about 100 meters into the swamp that we realised it had taken over the entire field.We had to cross about half a mile knee deep in the swamp and even got stuck a couple of times. It was a great learning experience (though unnerving at the time).

I knew what lay ahead now and focussed myself. I stopped and scanned the area,looking for a place where I would likely not get stuck. I saw some vehicle tracks and decided to follow them. I didn't know which direction I was meant to take, I only knew that I had to get to the other side of the fields. I walked on the tracks and the slush started getting deeper. It occurred to me that walking beside the tracks might be easier as the ground was a harder on the surface. I walked very carefully, with almost featherlike treads - there was no one around and if I got stuck in the slush, I would have hadto wait for hours until the good people back at the lodge realised that I was missing. After painstakingly choosing every step,(wisely!) I finally crossed the field and was gleaming with joy at completing another challenge.

Now, how could this day get better?

I headed to a small pond near a farm close by, and oh my lucky stars, there was a crocodile (about 4 feet in size), basking in the sun. I had unknowingly crossed the pond very close to the crocodile, which I should not have done. I learnt that stop, lookand proceed is the basis of safety in the wild.

I walked on and met the farms landlord, Abdul Basheer - elder brother of Salim bhai,whois been very friendly with all of us at the lodge. He welcomed me and was happy to tell me about his farm. There were paddy fields where they were growing Basmati rice, a delicacy for making biryani. He said he would send me a bag once harvested.

He was more than happy to show me the various birds that lived in and visited his farm. There were three barn owlets that lived in a small hole on the huge Mahua tree. I was lucky to see them as it was day and they are usually not seen perched on the tree. All three were sitting close together and it seemed like they were looking at me. Owls are my favouritebirds next to the Bald eagle. He also showed me a fewparakeets and other common birds.

I went back to the crocodile basking in the sun. I wanted to get a good shot so I moved a little closer. That startled the crocodile and it leapt back into the water, causing me to miss my shot. Disappointed I went back to the farm, but was called back as the crocodile had crawled back onto land. I was told that there were 3 crocodilesliving in that pond. By now I realised that getting too close to the croc was not only scaring the creature but also unsafe for me. I stood my distance and didn't gocloser. I was lucky to get a good photograph this time.

I said my goodbyes to Abdul bhai and to his workers on the farm which included a little boy, Somesh about 7 to 8 years. I captured them all on my camera and took the beautiful experience in my mind.

I was on my way to the Baya Weavers nests. My mission that day was to watch the birds and record their behavioural patterns. It was really amazing how they made their nests. Theirs are hanging nests, very strong, made of twigs and grass, like little pouches to lay their eggs in. The birds fluttered around the nests, going in and out every 50-60 seconds. They shook the nest and it swayed every time they went in.There were about 10 nests hanging together and atleast 2 birds(that I could tell) around the nests, maybe guarding their homes. I watched in awe for a while recording every little detail.

It was time to go back home, and I turned towards the lodge feeling richer for the day that I had had. I saw a few children and they looked at me smiling and grinning so I stopped to chat with them and showed them my binoculars which they looked at with great fascination.Children are amazing creatures, so full of joy, excitement and eager to learn. They were returning from the "Anganwadi", which isa crèche provided by the government.

As I walked back, I saw peacocks dancing across the field, a perfect end to a perfect day. My mind was filled with the beautiful experience and my heart quiet and blissful. I couldn't help sharing my wonderful expedition with everyone. I am sure I will have many such beautiful journeys in my days here at Satpura.

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My First Trip Into the 'Wild' - Forsyth Lodge

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With my heart pounding in my rib cage, I set off all by myself to explore the wilderness. I had been in the forest before, but always in a vehicle, and so being on foot and completely alone felt like a vulnerable but thrilling situation.

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The lodge is surrounded by wheat and rice fields, and a handful of home kitchen gardens with tulsi, lemongrass, a few seasonal vegetables and one or two papaya and drumstick trees. Read this blog to know more.

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The Organic Garden at Forsyth Lodge

Deepanker and I walked around the property and settled on an area next to the naturalists' housing block, separated from the main lodge by a few trees.

We figured this area, next to people, would make our organic vegetable garden less desirable to the many creatures that may want to feast on its crops - our biggest concern being the langurs.

In June 2017, we cleared the invasive lantana plants that covered the area, and planted moong to regenerate the soil (even though this was eaten up before we could get our fence in place), the space was in great shape when I came back in October, and ready to be planted.

We created different zones in the garden - for sun and shade lovers / short duration and long duration / wet and dry plants. The garden was designed to showcase a range of possibilities, growing a variety of fruits, herbs and vegetables in a humble 1/5 acre (approximately 1000 sqm).

The lodge is surrounded by wheat and rice fields, and a handful of home kitchen gardens with tulsi, lemongrass, a few seasonal vegetables and one or two papaya and drumstick trees. For the most part, the lodge has to source all their produce from the main town, over 20km away. We wanted to see if we could change that, and start sourcing more locally (switching over to mostly organic produce too). First, we would need to test and prove what was possible, and then we could reach out to our neighbours to see who would be interested in growing for us.

Our goals for the first season were: productivity; experimentation and education.

The larger vision of this entire initiative is to support the area farmers to transition to organic farming, building more resilient and sustainable systems and better - safer farming practices. At present, the farmers will grow their own food using mostly organic methods, but when it comes to commercial farming they are inclined to use harmful chemicals and tend to grow only a few crops every year. We are hoping to provide an alternate model, where the farmers can grow more valuable, organic vegetables and herbs that can be sold to the hotels and lodges in the area. Additionally, the project aims to communicate the personal health benefits of eating a diverse diet and reducing the dependence on chemical fertilisers, pesticides and fungicides.

In our first growing season we have been pleasantly surprised with the range of produce we could grow. With our surplus greens we came up with a new dish, our "Jungle Chaat", a nutrient-rich and vegetable packed version of bhel puri. We introduced this meal to teachers at the local school, and served in to the students twice. Since the response was overwhelmingly positive from the kids, we've decided to regularly supply the dish, supplementing their regular school lunch.

In my last month before the Lodge closed for the season, we invited a group of neighbouring farmers to see our garden, and discuss working together next season. Three farmers, Mangilal, Tillu and Master Jii decided they would like to try growing a range of vegetables organically on their farm plots. We visited the farms, and demarcated the best areas to get started.

Will have an update on their progress in early 2019!

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The Organic Garden at Forsyth Lodge - Forsyth Lodge

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Deepanker and I walked around the property and settled on an area next to the naturalists' housing block, separated from the main lodge by a few trees. We figured this area, next to people, would make our organic vegetable garden less desirable to the many creatures that may want to feast on its crops - ...

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Not Just A Tiger Reserve| Satpura Tiger Reserve | Forsyth Lodge

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Not Just A Tiger Reserve| Satpura Tiger Reserve | Forsyth Lodge

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Satpura Tiger Reserve is actually an amalgamation of the Pachmadi Biosphere Reserve, Satpura National Park and the Bori Wildlife Sanctuary, making it the largest tiger reserve in Madhya Pradesh. Read this blog to know more.

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Not just a Tiger Reserve

My journey into the wild began some 12 years ago when I first ventured into the jungles of Dandeli in search of the Malabar Giant Squirrel. That first truly immersive experience gave roots to my interest in interpreting nature for people, for making them feel the magical and all encompassing connections that exist all around us. I took on the role of 'naturalist' from the very beginning of that first trip and I haven't looked back. I have learnt so much since that first trip, but being here in the "heartland of India" andthe largest tiger reserve in Madhya Pradesh, Satpura,still teaches me something new everyday!

I have always loved jungles but now know that I can never let go of the hills-Satpura is theperfect blend of both and offers everything in between!

Why you ask? Let me tell you....
The Centre of Everything
Satpura Tiger Reserve is actually an amalgamation of the Pachmadi Biosphere Reserve, Satpura National Park and the Bori Wildlife Sanctuary, making itthe largest tiger reserve in Madhya Pradesh. Bori is one of the oldest reserves in India (historically, Captain James Forsyth of the Bengal lancers, combed this area in search for the elusive freedom fighter Tantia Tope on horseback, and discovered the beauty of this region). The wonderful sandstone cliffs, the gurgling rivulets, the calm and still backwaters, the undulating hills, the amazingly diverse forest types is ideal for a diverse range of flora and fauna, and is a haven to many endemic species.

It is home to around 52 species of Mammals, 31 of Reptiles, and 300 species of birds, including the Malabar Pied Hornbill, the Malabar Whistling Thrush and Madhya Pradesh's state bird the Paradise Flycatcher (Doodhraj). Being a relatively undisturbed forest, it is home to 14 endangered species including arboreal mammals like the Flying Squirrel, the Indian Giant Squirrel and Leaf nosed Bat as well as the Indian Skimmer. The clear streams and rivers are home to the Eurasian Otter and the Smooth coated Otter.

While this may sound like I am paraphrasing right out of a textbook, my excitement is real and palpable, as I am able to check more and more species of my checklist everyday!

The Central Indian Highlands are what I like to call the heartland of India, not only because they are geographically situated right in the middle of the country, but also because one can see an overlap of the flora and fauna of both north and south India right here. This area has a large and diversified population of wildlife which israrely seen in other national parks, making our learning experiences so much more fulfilling and our guest experiences unparalleled. This forest area is unique in its ecosystem and has a long history of wildlife conservation which is evident from the abundance of wildlife species present here.
The Backwaters
The river Denwa forms a natural demarcation between the core and buffer zones of Satpura Tiger Reserve. At the peak of summer after its waters havebeen much used, it is barely a dozen feet wide; but right after the monsoon, she is a beautiful sight to behold.

These beautiful backwaters call to the hundreds of waterbirds and migratory winter visitors that will flock to Satpura every winter. Even as the water recedes, extensive mudflats are exposed, making way for waders and shallow feeding waterbirds. Indian Skimmers have only a few known nesting sites in India, the mudflats of the backwaters of Denwabeingone of them. An abundance of prey also means that predatory birds flock to this area. Some residents, some migrants and some that breed here. The diversity can be attributed to the fact excellent conservation efforts have been undertaken by the Forest Dept in combination with the Naturalists of the area. The race to be the first to find a winter visitor, or a returning migrant is exhilarating! We take our birding very seriously at Forsyth Lodge!! As an amateur birdwatcher or a seasoned one, you can have an immense amount of fun and excitement what with all the different, colourful, rare, and migratory species here.
Merrily Down the Stream
The wonderful thing about the 'Satpura model of tourism' is the very raw and natural way you can explore the jungle. Boating or canoeing along the river Denwa, both upstream and downstream is an amazing experience and gives you a completely different perspective of the forest. Boating allows you to see animals without the restriction of staying on roads, it gives you greater access to the inner edges of the forest, especially when the water is high you can access the edges of the ravines where the water goes right upto the beautiful dense forest. The canoe safaris is paddle powered and gives an amazing silent and immersive feel of being one with the forest, the river and the landscape. You can choose to paddle yourself, or let your guide do the work - I do a mix of both, its nice to warm up a little once in a while. Being on the river gives you a different perspective and is something that should be experienced at least once in your lifetime!
Core Control
When you think of Indian jungles, your mind jumps straight todriving around in jeeps looking for tigers. Not so here. HashimTayabji started leading walks into the core area of the Satpura Tiger Reserve approximately twelve years ago, and that is how tourism started here. This old school way of exploring the forest still remains an option for tourists, and trust me when I say that all the treks and hikes you have done in the past will pale in comparison to walking in the middle of a forest with just a few other tourists and a guide for company. You will discover smaller flora and fauna in a much more intimate setting. This is when you can stumble upon a herd of spotted deer and no manmade sounds (other than your own footsteps and maybe cameras) will get in between you and the sheer joy of watching these nimble creatures. The smells of the forest, the feel of that moist cool breeze, the ants that crawl, the chirping of the birds, the soft shuffle of hoofs and the crunch of a herbivore munching on some leaves is unparalleled. Watching life unfold around you is an uplifting experience. We spend a lot of our free days exploring the core zones on foot as bees dip into flowers, dragonflies get caught in spider webs, and butterflies flit around us.
Tête-à-Tête
This park has stayed off the radar from most tourist itineraries and hence is still quite untouched. The landscape makes spotting the ever elusive tigers difficult, easing the pressure of tourism from the park. Only 24 jeeps enter the corse zone, which means that you are among the fortunate few who have gotten the chance to explore this jewel of a forestat any point. The guides here have trained hand in hand with the naturalists at Forsyth Lodge and are very knowledgeable not only about the bigger mammals but also about insects, birds and plants of the area. Leopards roam free here in the undulating hills, the bears sniff out their tiny but mighty meals of termites and wild dogs play unhindered. This land of abundance offers an experience that will leave you amazed at the intricate relationships in nature and spell bound by the beauty of the landscape.
Trailing History
In the forests of Pachmari, time stands still. A hundred and fifty years ago, Captain James Forsyth discovered this region by walking a path that is now known as the 'Forsyth Trail'. We follow his footsteps till this day, hiking and camping on thesame passage that led him through the rugged ravines and lush forests on his way to the discovery of Pachmarhi. The flora and fauna along this trail is completely different from the rest of the highlands owing to the variation in altitude and terrain. The Forsyth Trail lets us witness rare and endemic species of butterflies, birds and plants. Navigating boulders and forest floors teeming with unique species of insects, wecross gushing streams, soak in the serene vistas and interact with ' Bharias' a tribe indigenous to the valley, known for their ancient art of healing.
Churna
Situated inside the reserve is a charming British-eraforest 'Rest House', where onecan spend a night surrounded bynothing but miles and miles of forest. We call this the Churna camp. This area was once alarge village settlement this was relocated in May 2013 as part of the current voluntary relocation program undertaken in Tiger Reserves across the country. Nearly 150 households moved to the buffer area of the park, and development and management of grasslands in this area has made an ideal grazing area for herbivores. The old trees around the camp are home to Malabar Giant Squirrels and Flying Squirrels, where the nullahthat runs alongside nurtures a variety of fish and birds.

All in all Satpura Tiger Reserve is one of the few places in India that gives us a glimpse into times gone by, when people roamed the forests and lived alongside the wildlife. If it is a well rounded forest experience that you are looking for, this is the perfect place for you! I know that this is the perfect place for me.

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Not just a Tiger Reserve - Forsyth Lodge

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My journey into the wild began some 12 years ago when I first ventured into the jungles of Dandeli in search of the Malabar Giant Squirrel. That first truly immersive experience gave roots to my interest in interpreting nature for people, for making them feel the magical and all encompassing connections that exist all around ...

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From spitting to propelling to beautifully patterned wings, Froghoppers or Spittlebugs fascinate much as any insect would. Read this blog to know who spit on the plants.

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Who spat here?

One of the walks in farms when I was a child, I had noticed some spit on the plants, I had asked a farmer for answers on who spat in his fields early morning, to which he said it is a snake's spit. Myths such as this varied from farmer to farmer, some said it was spat by frogs and some said a snail puked. In some cultures it is mystified to be witches' spit or a cuckoo's spit too. But the real culprit was hidden inside the spit itself. When the bug swims out of its busy morning a yellow nymph showed itself that had a fish-like head. A curious nudge into the spit, limped a bug that undid its proboscis from the stalk and looked out to enquire. Now you don't have to feel awful when you see them on your dear plants and lawn, especially on the stalks that hangs a white froth held longer at dew hours. More often than not, the spits are of a Spittlebug unless you have not waged war against your neighbour. These bugs might have fed excessively on the stalks to wear a gown of froth, which would probably keep the nymphs of the bug safe from predators and from drying away in heat or cold conditions. With a few days passing, the wings of the Spittlebug develop and the amount of spit reduces eventually. What develops from a full grown Spittlebug is another remarkable senior; one that doesn't spit but jumps called the Froghoppers which are an astonishing little talented creature. Some Froghopper species can shoot up 100 times its body length and sport brilliant colors and patterns for a tiny bug. Scientists have been using high-speed cameras at the rate of 8000 per second to find the kinematics of Froghoppers. The locomotion of insects is done by using thoraxes, some develop tails, some leap like crickets that use hind legs as spring and some simply walk on all six and most take off on wings. Jumping insects need muscular strength to perform locomotion and an ability to guide themselves for landing. Our contender is by far one of the best jumpers, crickets and locusts do jump but a short distance on heavy hind-legs to make the purchase while Froghoppers with short hind-legs which is less than half their body's length, and weighing only 2% of their body mass and they don't even use their wings to aid their take-off does make them outstanding jumpers. Working against gravity requires energy that Froghoppers have overcome in their body weight by simply weighing less. Their jumping performances are rest taken care by muscle structure inside their hind-legs that catapults them at velocities ranging from 2.4 to 4.5 meters per second! That is 15 kmph. And their readiness to jump with forever-cocked-position of hind-legs keeps the kinetic energy ready to leap of faith. This leap can take them to a height of up to 70 centimetres to land them to their destinations. The super charged legs have now outdone the high-jumper's records of fleas. Why do they have to jump? It is quite unclear, could their predators challenge them to do so like the parasitic wasps, rapid chopsticks of mantises, witty warblers, unwitty grazers and camouflaged spiders? From spitting to propelling to beautifully patterned wings, Froghoppers or Spittlebugs fascinate much as any insect would.

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One of the walks in farms when I was a child, I had noticed some spit on the plants, I had asked a farmer for answers on who spat in his fields early morning, to which he said it is a snake's spit. Myths such as this varied from farmer to farmer, some said it ...

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Satpura Jungle Safari Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Satpura Jungle Safari Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Naturalists with ‘Blues fever’ at Satpura hope to stay infected forever. Get in touch with Forsyth Lodge & book jungle safari now. Call at +91 8989186329 for more information!

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Naturalist's Fever

Of the many fevers a naturalist could get, 'Blues fever' is the strangest. This makes pupils sway rapidly and eyes squint, makes them walk on haunches and their communications turn into Morse code.

This fever was acquired during a Butterfly Survey at Satpura after an introduction to the Blues family of butterflies by Ashok Sengupta. Ashok gripped the audience with anecdotes of butterflying and keyed in individual butterfly species of the Blues family. Each butterfly picture was deciphered by the dots and dashes positioned between the veins, their presence or absence and their intensities in Morse coding. These puzzles challenged naturalists and left them in speculated conversations and uncompromising wars. Ever since these identification keys were pointed out we Forsyth's naturalists have been pointing cameras to Cupids, Blues, Pierrots to record rare ones.

Dawn - a guest, spent a couple of days in Pachmarhi reserve a year ago and she walked with me to Twynam's pool, an old English swimming pool, now used by local kids during summer and regularly by Skittering frogs, Keelback snakes, Darners and many mammals to sip Twynam out. Dawn cancelled all her plans and spent the whole day around this area for its diversity of native host plants, right amount of light on butterflies basking and the mud-puddling areas. This is one of the beautiful places to watch fast fliers for a long time. Pansies, Eggflies, Nawabs, Barons, Baronets, Silverlines, Oakblues, Yellows and other fellows, either take turns or choose a common spot and stretch their wings for a few minutes while they probe for minerals.

Twynam's pool was among the six transects that the forest department chose for the first butterfly survey ever in Madhya Pradesh. Although it was first survey on butterflies but it was handled exceptionally well by the department for three days, they had experts assigned to groups, scrumptious food and most decent accommodations arranged during any forest survey. What intrigued me is that some of the busiest forest officers have been butterfly watchers for decades and were a wealth of knowledge. Dungriyal who is an experienced Forest officer inched with us while it rained Blues and Browns. When the butterflies took shelter from rains, Dungriyal made sure Butterflies were introduced to us through their various host plants, their lifecycles and habitats. In fact some of the habitats were permitted only for this survey and they offered views that were stunning and spots that hold endemic butterflies. And these treats are on offer for those who register for such surveys, like a jeweller's safe-lock that hides rare pearls for special customers. At certain altitudes that Satpuras range into, the butterflies were more isolated and the race for rarities got even better. Skippers; a group of butterflies that are often skipped by amateurs, and among them are Flats that tease a few seconds and flatten under leaves just where you cannot reach on those cliff hanging rocks. It seemed that the mammals too were quick here. A Gaur disappeared in a flash where he was browsing on a ridge of a gorge that rose above streams that rushed towards Denwa River. The background had the highlands rising curtained by mist and rain.

We naturalists with 'Blues fever' at Satpura hope to stay infected forever. And I trust the online translator has converted this blog post written in Morse to English, for you to be inspired and initiate surveys, butterfly watching and creating native gardens for butterflies to enjoy them being around you.

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Forest Safari in Madhya Pradesh | Lodges around Satpura Tiger Reserve

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Naturalist's Fever Of the many fevers a naturalist could get, 'Blues fever' is the strangest. This makes pupils sway rapidly and eyes squint, makes them walk on haunches and their communications turn into Morse code. This fever was acquired during a Butterfly Survey at Satpura after an introduction to the Blues family of butterflies by Ashok Sengupta.

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Forest Online Safari Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Forest Online Safari Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Have you seen a teak skeletonizing moth caterpillars leaving nets on large leaves? Visit Forsyth Lodge in MP & experience the wilderness with them!

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There are days in a jungle that only promise tracks of several animals; recent ones to couple of days older. On such days a sighting of an occasional Sambar or a sprinting Nilgai extracts an admiration which it deserved for the whole season. Their adaptations and muscles in winter-coat would match Hercules on that day, their camouflage would be toasted as the greatest evolution of genes and their plight to find food and water would be glorified to that of a seven-summit-mountaineer. It was such a story day when two of my best friends from Bangalore railed to see what sort of job I did in Satpura.

It began with a cheerful discussion on trees, the birds, the Tiger beetles, trail of ants, and the efficient management in Satpura's buffer forest. This talk was interrupted by a bear's track that was recent, it had sharp edges as good as prints by homebound cattle. The human-like paw impressions of a plantigrade foot time punched the start of the bear's day. We drove hell-bent for a black figure in bushes and waited by a waterhole. A last homebound bullock did a royal walk and had its fill.

We drove back to double check the track but fell for a 3-inch wide Python's track trailing into bushes, snaking a nullah and cutting the jeep-track at several spots. Just when we couldn't snake any further where the reptile could, a Langur struck distress call to announce the prowl of a big cat and marked the setting sun behind River Denwa. We swam the vehicle through an ocean of lantana weed and arrived at a little peninsula where the monkeys were distressed. We were close to the call and the only path out of the thicket that blanketed the tip of the peninsula ploughed to us. Nowhere could the 'cat' have escaped, but the treat of a face to face with a big cat was savored by a pair of Sambar on a parallel peninsula of Denwa backwaters that honked their loud distress.

The chase was exhilarating, the 4×4 was engaged to tune the adrenalin of the alumnus of classmates. We eventually spotliit the rocks and crannies looking for a porcupine. An Indian Thicknee put itself on a rock and used the spotlight beam to fiddle insects. We geared to the exit calling it a drive, I decided to show the night sky through a well wooded forest. I pointed at Orion, Sirius, and Perseus and as I advanced towards Andromeda, a snort behind our vehicle came to her rescue- A porcupine!

I flashed the light at the porcupine on the flanks of the jeep-track, behind it were two other pair of eyes. The rare Porcupine hurried towards our jeep and the other two pairs hesitantly glowed from the flanks. The shivering quills of porcupine stopped just behind the vehicle, a leopard cub that had flushed it out made its bold chase after a second thought. The Porcupine must have felt safe close to the vehicle, but innocence of the leopard cub didn't give it a break, the rodent flounced its way into the bushes grunting and took refuge of a nullah. The adult Leopard who had been waiting at the flank followed the chase. We heaved back and forth the track but the snorts and the eye shines had married the darkness of the starry night.

The chase had happened so quick and close that all of us were opaque to our cameras! I had my video mode set on the camera and didn't hit the record button out of excitement. But one of us managed a phone click! That is a consolation for tracking the bear and journey with Python and patience practice with the 'cat' flagged by Langurs and to gazing at constellations. We lived happily ever after with stories of jungles that we learned, toasting for the chase by leopards that uncloaked the secretive porcupine under starry night.

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Safari Online Booking | Wildlife Hotels in India - Forsyth Lodge

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There are days in a jungle that only promise tracks of several animals; recent ones to couple of days older. On such days a sighting of an occasional Sambar or a sprinting Nilgai extracts an admiration which it deserved for the whole season.

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Satpura National Park Safari with Forsyth Lodge 

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Satpura National Park Safari with Forsyth Lodge 

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If you want to book a Jungle safari, visit Forsyth Lodge now. They are a jungle lodge in Satpura who offers various eco friendly services. Visit them to know more!

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Walking in Bear country

Our briefings before a walk in Satpura is around Sloth Bears, and most guests who walk would expect to see birds perched or mammals running away or the smaller creatures like spiders, dragonflies, butterflies, scorpions or interesting shrubs and trees, what excites in their wish list to see would be a colubrid. We were walking up a gradient after crossing a dry stream, 'Have you seen a teak skeletonizing moth caterpillars leaving nets on large leaves?' Even before she could catch the tail of my question a flurry of black furry boulder took from a tree. I turned to hush Sobha and Vinay but the bear did it with a snort and put a good distance from us and sat down. We the people and the bear were awestruck, we the people bunched together and Bhurelal the park guide with his bear-safety kit of pressurised horn, pepper spray and a heavy bamboo staff stood as the bulwark. The bear looked at his feet and at the puzzled herd of Gaur ahead of us. He was calming, he might have been preparing for a siesta. River Denwa was at its brim, the backwater had some froth and it surfed at the forest behind the bear like mousse. If he had to scram away, river-bank away from us was ideal or barge towards Gaur ahead of us or unexpectedly rather expectedly at us! After nearly five minutes of watching each other he stomped along the river-bank away from us and he stopped again looking at the Gaur and us. Sobha and Vinay investigated the tree where the furry liftoff took place, we learnt that the grass and weed were bent and the earth was exposed enough for a bear to bum in, several bent grass blades were dry as though frequently used. The Chironji tree stood like a mast for a climbing ziziphus' thorns that sucked itself into a cave for the bear. No claw or neb mark as any usual signs of a bear could be investigated nor was any dropping except a brave frog's poop. Are we really in the living room of a bear!? The bear watched unwelcomingly from the Denwa creek. Often feared to be aggressive, Sloth Bears are animals that operate mostly during dark hours or gloomy weather, possible reasons could be to avoid disturbances from people and other animals while digging termites or sucking up fruits, other reasons could be for bees being inactive during night which is a part of their social-insect-cuisine. But a dark animal burying sensors into earth by closing eyes- although not a great eyesight, but a pair of nostrils picking acute smells yet buried with innate stoppers on. A person running into a bear unwarily like Sobha and gang would surprise any animal including humans, who when surprised would either take flight or fight. Imagine what a wild animal could do with four inches long claws, piggy-backing year old cubs, flabbergasted and having history lessons from grandparents or bear-talks of cubs picked up by Kalandar men for entertainment! Sobha and gang decided for the safety of ourselves and the bear and Bhurelal's job to take a detour, around the Gaur herd with much vigilance to not wake another bear!

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Jungle Safari Lodge in Madhya Pradesh | Forsyth Lodge

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Walking in Bear country Our briefings before a walk in Satpura is around Sloth Bears, and most guests who walk would expect to see birds perched or mammals running away or the smaller creatures like spiders, dragonflies, butterflies, scorpions or interesting shrubs and trees, what excites in their wish list to see would be a colubrid.

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Satpura National Park Safari Online Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Satpura National Park Safari Online Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Visit Forsyth Lodge to know about the Satpura National Park. Visit their website & read wildlife blogs. To know more, you can also call at +91 8989186329 now!

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Ghost with the rose

In June Daria flew from Moscow to Nairobi, in few hours she prepared things to do list, one that topped was Masai Mara. In the vast stretches of Masai plains where the horizon merges into hills of Tanzania, a stream cut through greened by trees and on one of these trees lazed a leopard whom the guide pointed to Daria. It looked right into them, a leopard in a Lion dominated plains crowned the guide, but Daria wasn't as excited. The large fig tree table at Forsyth Lodge hosted the evening with whisky, Daria reminisced the Masai leopard but continued that, 'I wish the leopard was on ground'. 'Most leopard sightings in Satpura are on ground, resting either on termite mounds or on rocks' I praised. As Daria was building her hopes of finding a leopard on ground, a herd of Chital within lodge perimeter threw warning calls. Evenings later we drove to buffer of Satpura Reserve, Adhaar is an ambassador of this area and our local guide; an instinctive spotter. Our Gypsy ambled up a stream that had pockets of water and sandy bank for spoors of animals, Often a leopard imprints a paw during this hour when the shades of the forest turns darker, when the first nightjars make their sally, when the crickets mic-check, when Vega shines through the leaves and our pupils dilate to see the forest floor. Adhaar infected his excitement of spotting a leopard. 'On the ground Daria!' I whispered. She fires a few pictures at it, and the leopard walks parallel to the road, the road is a gully, the ground eventually rises either side. After a shy protest, the leopard stops behind a bush and crouches. Sensing the leopard's unperturbed posture, we gave it a couple of minutes keeping the engine on. After preaching everyone to avoid sudden movements we snailed for a better position. A patch of grass carpeted in front of the leopard rolling till the edge of the road and there was enough light for few more pictures but I insisted Daria to take binoculars while I could flirt with her camera. Another five minutes passed and the ghost with the rose walks into darkening bushes and merged. Adhaar and I planned to counter the leopard on an adjacent track, we checked with Daria and gang if they'd be alright while squeezing through the monsoon blanketed forest road. They gave an apprehensive 'okay' but when the Gypsy heaved towards a Giant wood-Spider web, Pramod urged to turn around and stick to main track. But we knew another road parallel minus the rankling bushes and tidied spider webs, as we hit the end of this road where it junctions, the same spot-lit leopard walked heads up toward our jeep. It dared ahead of the Gypsy and Daria had her fill of leopard until now. We later discussed on possible reasons for often seeing a leopard on ground which might be the infrequent movement of Tigers and Wild dogs in our safari area who may compete with leopards, also the terrain being rocky and steep in the highlands and plains undulate which suits for a big cat that is versatile. And I was glad that Daria could find her Leopard on ground.

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Satpura Jungle Safari Online Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Ghost with the rose In June Daria flew from Moscow to Nairobi, in few hours she prepared things to do list, one that topped was Masai Mara. In the vast stretches of Masai plains where the horizon merges into hills of Tanzania, a stream cut through greened by trees and on one of these trees lazed a leopard whom the guide pointed to Daria.

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Satpura National Park | Jungle Safari Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Satpura National Park | Jungle Safari Booking | Forsyth Lodge

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Visit Forsyth Lodge & book Satpura National Park jungle safari now! For more information, visit their website or call at +91 8989186329 now!

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The Safari Times

Our morning newspaper pressed earth in vapour. Sounders have marched, on a pugmark parched. Have emptied their butts, on raiding ground nuts.

The headlines flashed a Python's track, the drift alleged it had a snack. A flaunting Peafowl sirened the scene. Treed and gloating in his long preen.

Everything is a trending news compiled at night, printed by dew. Politics of herd over an obituary. Every sign revealed its story.

We read news; of all that moves, we set to track; a limping hoof. We stalked a gait; of sheared thigh survived a bovine; from a feline's try. We grasped the math; she gasped her breath. To surprise us both; hugged a rosette death.

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Satpura National Park Safari Booking | Jungle Lodge in India

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The Safari Times Our morning newspaper pressed earth in vapour. Sounders have marched, on a pugmark parched. Have emptied their butts, on raiding ground nuts. The headlines flashed a Python's track, the drift alleged it had a snack. A flaunting Peafowl sirened the scene. Treed and gloating in his long preen.

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Satpura Resort Packages | Wild Tour Packages India | Forsyth Lodge

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Satpura Resort Packages | Wild Tour Packages India | Forsyth Lodge

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Visit Forsyth’s website & check out their resort & wildlife tour packages now! They are a jungle lodge in India who offers jungle safaris, camping etc. For more details, visit now!

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Tariff Includes

Accommodation in AC Cottage | All Meals (Breakfast , Lunch & Dinner) | Unlimited tea and coffee | 2 Park activities per day (1 jeep safari on a shared basis) and the other a choice between a nature walk / canoe / boat / mountain bike (subject to availability) | Park entrances.

Excludes

Any transfers | Foreign / Indian wines , liquors , beer and spirits | Camera and Video fees | Laundry service | Activities other than those listed above | Any extra meals due to early arrival / late departure from the lodge will be billed at the time of check-out. Have to be settled in cash directly | All additional payments at the lodge to be settled in cash in Indian Rupees.

Note

Taxes of 8.7% (Subject to change) will be applicable on all above mentioned rates | Child 5years & below will be complementary on the plan | If you would like to book for 2 jeep safaris per day, an additional cost for the extra jeep safari will be charged per day | There will be a 10% surcharge on the above tariffs for Foreign / NRI guests.

Cancellation Terms

Bookings cancelled 45 days prior to check-in date : 1 night retention of the invoice amount | Bookings cancelled 15 days - 45 days before check-in date : 50% retention of the invoice amount | Bookings cancelled less than 15 days or No Show: 100% of the invoice amount | For Group bookings cancellation policy will be 50% of the advance paid will be kept as retention fee.

For Reservations

100% advance payment is essential to confirm reservations at our Mumbai office | All reservation payments to be made by Cash / Neft / Bank Transfers in Mumbai only

For Bookings

(91) 124 4908615 (91) 98100 93312

bookings@forsythlodge.com

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Wildlife Tour Packages | Satpura Wildlife Safari & Hotels - Forsyth Lodge

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Accommodation in AC Cottage | All Meals (Breakfast , Lunch & Dinner) | Unlimited tea and coffee | 2 Park activities per day (1 jeep safari on a shared basis) and the other a choice between a nature walk / canoe / boat / mountain bike (subject to availability) | Park entrances.

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Hotels in Satpura Tiger Reserve | Forsyth Lodge

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Hotels in Satpura Tiger Reserve | Forsyth Lodge

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Looking for luxury Lodges in Satpura Tiger Reserve? Look no more. Forsyth Lodge is a luxury jungle lodge in Madhya Pradesh with eco lodging facilities. Visit their website to know more!

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Satpura Wildlife Experiences Forsyth Lodge | Call +91 9810093312

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Looking for a Satpura safari resort? Visit Forsyth Lodge, a jungle safari lodge for unforgettable wildlife experience. Call at +91 9810093312 now & experience the wilderness better than any luxury wildlife lodge.

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Wildlife Jungle Resorts in India | Forsyth Lodge Blogs

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Wildlife Jungle Resorts in India | Forsyth Lodge Blogs

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If you love reading wildlife stories, then visit Forsyth’s blogs section. They are a wildlife jungle resort with experienced team & thrilling jungle stories. Visit them now!

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Wildlife Safari & Jungle Lodges in India - Forsyth Lodge Blogs

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Our blogs uncover the secrets of life in the jungle. Read the stories from our naturalists and experience the thrill & amazement of the enigma of Satpura. Click here to know more.

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Wildlife Safaris in India | Satpura National Park Safari

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Wildlife Safaris in India | Satpura National Park Safari

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Explore Satpura Tiger Reserve with Forsyth’s exciting Jungle safaris. They offer dusk drives, open top jeeps & walking safari options. For more information, call them at +91 8989186329 now!

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There's nothing quite like exploring Satpura Tiger Reserve in an open top jeep. Accompanied by our experienced naturalists and Satpura's local guides, each ride takes you into heart of the wilderness. In an effort to reduce the pressure of tourism in the area, the authorities restrict the number of vehicles in the reserve, keeping you away from crowds and close to all the action.

Start at the crack of dawn and cross the Denwa River as life in the forest slowly wakes up to daylight. Cruise along favoured resting and feeding spots and track the ever elusive predators of Satpura. We know that the adrenaline rush can leave you famished, so it's a good thing we made breakfast reservations at a pile of volcanic rocks. You can also choose to venture out in the afternoon and admire the sun retreating in the azure sky.

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Best Wildlife Safaris in Satpura National Park Madhya Pradesh, India

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There's nothing quite like exploring Satpura Tiger Reserve in an open top jeep. Accompanied by our experienced naturalists and Satpura's local guides, each ride takes you into heart of the wilderness. In an effort to reduce the pressure of tourism in the area, the authorities restrict the number of vehicles in the reserve, keeping you away from crowds and close to all the action.

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Satpura Safari Lodges & Hotels in India 

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Satpura Safari Lodges & Hotels in India 

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Visit Forsyth Lodge, a Satpura safari resort & lodge, to experience thrilling safaris, buffer zone camping, Jr. Rangers Programme & much more! Visit their website for more information!

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Satpura Hotels & Lodges | Jungle Safari Lodge - Forsyth Lodge

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Witness the wildly beautiful Satpura National Park with Forsyth Lodge. For bookings and more information, click here or call at +91 9810093312 now!

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Wildlife Lodge in Madhya Pradesh, India - Forsyth Lodge

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Wildlife Lodge in Madhya Pradesh, India - Forsyth Lodge

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Forsyth Lodge makes every effort to tread as lightly as possible on the ecosystem. They make exciting encounters with nature possible for their guests through sustainable tourism. Visit their website now & know more!

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These efforts are reflected in the care with which our buildings are constructed, how we manage and recycle water, and the manner in which we find better alternatives to existing technology.
Reforestation
Our concern is equally reflected in the responsible practices we employ to aid the return of the jungle in the property and surrounding areas. In a recent undertaking, we've managed to tackle two obstacles to the regeneration of the forest: the lack of plant diversity and an "invasion" by aggressively spreading Lantana. We're replacing the Lantana with a diversity of indigenous trees, shrubs and climbers in the monsoons. This project is being carried out in consultation with ecology and reforestation experts to help restore the natural habitat.
Wildlife Friendly
As the forest slowly and steadily returns to the area, we're doing everything in our capacity to welcome it with open arms. Our property uses wild fencing by and large, rather than wire or electrified fencing, to ensure the unhindered movement of species across their preferred routes. Most of our 44 acres are undeveloped, allowing the natural

ecosystem to flourish, and it is not uncommon for us to walk past shy spotted deer or catch sight of a few wild boar! Over several years, we've planted a careful distribution of indigenous trees, shrubs and grasses, ensuring adequate shelter within the lodge area for small mammals. We've dug several waterholes across the property to ensure that these species have reliably safe access to water.
Grey Water Recycling
We recycle our water through efficient and eco-friendly systems. Grey water from the cottges passes through filtration pits into lily ponds. A reed bed system filters grey water from our kitchens.
Composting
We use all our vegetable and food waste in composting along with dry leaves collected from inside the property. The compost enriches our garden soil and helps us produce the freshest herbs and vegetables in our small kitchen garden.
Responsible Waste Management
Garbage is segregated into paper, plastic, glass, metal and foil and sent to the nearby village for recycling and sold to the local kabadiwala.

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Jungle Lodge near Bhopal, India - Forsyth Lodge| Initiatives

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These efforts are reflected in the care with which our buildings are constructed, how we manage and recycle water, and the manner in which we find better alternatives to existing technology. Reforestation Our concern is equally reflected in the responsible practices we employ to aid the return of the jungle in the property and surrounding areas.

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Wildlife Luxury Jungle Lodge in India - Forsyth Lodge

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Wildlife Luxury Jungle Lodge in India - Forsyth Lodge

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Create a life-changing experience with Forsyth’s experienced, knowledgeable & passionate team. Their thrilling stories of the wild and rare knowledge gently guide you through your journey of exploration. Visit them now!

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We come from a place of immense love for nature and life. Over the years, we have been fortunate enough to find like-minded, dedicated individuals to join our team. Every member of our team brings something unique to Forsyth Lodge - years of experience, rare knowledge, a passion for nature, thrilling stories of the wild and so much more. Together, we strive to create life-changing experiences for our guests, gently guiding them through their own journey of exploration.

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Luxury Jungle Lodge in India - Forsyth Lodge| People

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We come from a place of immense love for nature and life. Over the years, we have been fortunate enough to find like-minded, dedicated individuals to join our team. Every member of our team brings something unique to Forsyth Lodge - years of experience, rare knowledge, a passion for nature, thrilling stories of the wild and so much more.

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Wildlife Lodge in Satpura National Park, Madhya Pradesh - Forsyth Lodge

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Wildlife Lodge in Satpura National Park, Madhya Pradesh - Forsyth Lodge

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Fall in love with Satpura’s charming landscape and the rich tapestry of flora and fauna that drew James Forsyth to the Central Highlands so many decades ago. Get in touch with Forsyth Lodge & experience the amazing experience now!

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Over a century and a half ago, an officer of the Bengal Staff Corps found himself captivated by the Central Highlands of Madhya Pradesh. Captain James Forsyth was one of the first Europeans to explore and fall in love with Satpura. While the National Park was established in 1981, the Satpura Tiger Reserve was set up in 2000 under Project Tiger. The park is part of the government's initiative to preserve and reclaim the dwindling forests of wild India.

The Satpura Hills run from East to West, with the Pachmarhi Plateau practically in the centre of the area at an elevation of 1,050 meters. The Satpura Tiger Reserve is 1,427 square kilometers comprising of Satpura National Park, Bori and Pachmarhi sanctuaries.

Within the Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserve, the Satpura National Park is the core zone and the remaining area serves as the buffer zone with an approximate total area of almost 5,000 square kilometers. The region is largely hilly, veined by a number of streams and nullahs that have gouged deep ravines in the land - a terrain that perfectly suits the reclusive habits of most predators. It was perhaps this charming landscape and the rich tapestry of flora and fauna that drew James Forsyth to the Central Highlands so many decades ago.

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Satpura National Park Hotel & Safari Lodge | Forsyth Lodge

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Over a century and a half ago, an officer of the Bengal Staff Corps found himself captivated by the Central Highlands of Madhya Pradesh. Captain James Forsyth was one of the first Europeans to explore and fall in love with Satpura.

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Satpura National Park | Jungle Lodges in India| Forsyth Lodge

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Satpura National Park | Jungle Lodges in India| Forsyth Lodge

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If you want to escape the mundane, then visit Forsyth Lodge & experience the wonderful nature. They welcome travelers, adventurers, naturalists, ecology and wildlife enthusiasts or simply individuals looking to escape the mundane and experience something raw and real.  Visit them now!

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Much like our namesake, James Forsyth, we're seekers in the wild; constantly searching for new stories, great adventures and a sense of profound oneness with all things living. We welcome responsible travellers, adventurers, naturalists, ecology and wildlife enthusiasts or simply individuals looking to escape the mundane and experience something raw and real. We've built an inspiring eco-lodge utilising only 10% of our land, with a unique wilderness experience on the edge of the buffer zone of the Satpura Tiger Reserve. Hidden in dense deciduous forests, it's a glimpse into our world the way it was always meant to be - untouched and boundless.

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Satpura National Park Hotels | Jungle Lodges in India - Forsyth Lodge

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Much like our namesake, James Forsyth, we're seekers in the wild; constantly searching for new stories, great adventures and a sense of profound oneness with all things living. We welcome responsible travellers, adventurers, naturalists, ecology and wildlife enthusiasts or simply individuals looking to escape the mundane and experience something raw and real.

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Forsyth Lodge – The Luxury Wildlife Satpura Jungle Resorts in MP, India 

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Forsyth Lodge – The Luxury Wildlife Satpura Jungle Resorts in MP, India 

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Fosyth Lodge offers eco-lodging facilities with a unique wilderness experience on the edge of the buffer zone of the Satpura Tiger Reserve. Visit them today to experience the beauty of Satpura National Park in MP, India.

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Your Story In The Wild

EXPERIENCES

FORSYTH TRAIL

This is an expedition back in time, into the wild.
Retrace the steps of Captain James Forsyth with this 2-3 day expedition, and walk the path he took over 150 years ago to discover Pachmarhi.

SAFARIS

WALKING

A walking safari is your transition from tourist to traveller. Walk off the beaten track away from the din of an engine. Plant your feet on the ground and feel a deep connection with life in the forests of Satpura.
Step into the wild.

SAFARIS

WALKING

A walking safari is your transition from tourist to traveller. Walk off the beaten track away from the din of an engine. Plant your feet on the ground and feel a deep connection with life in the forests of Satpura.
Step into the wild.

TripAdvisor
Customer Testimonials

Top Lodge, top staff and top sightings. At last we got to see sloth bears (Note the plural !!). Would love to stay here again.

"Top Lodge"

@Kaye Penncy and John Pitcher

Wonderful place to stay. Amazing food and a different dining area for every meal! All the staff was so helpful and friendly and efficient.

"Wonderful"

@Linda and Rob Nottage

We had a really lovely time. Every day and every safari was outstanding. We spotted the bear and it was really an experience. My first safari and it was a great experience. Staff was outstanding. Well done!

"Staff was outstanding"

@Krishha and Gautam Hemdev

Fantastic place! Most friendly crew. Loved the hospitality. It's like home away from home. Will see you guys soon!

"Fantastic place"

@Khushboo and Sunny Tulsiany

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Forsyth Lodge | Luxury Jungle Lodge in Madhya Pradesh, India

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Your Story In The Wild EXPERIENCES This is an expedition back in time, into the wild. Retrace the steps of Captain James Forsyth with this 2-3 day expedition, and walk the path he took over 150 years ago to discover Pachmarhi. SAFARIS A walking safari is your transition from tourist to traveller.