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Fly zip

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Slanted shorts

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straight shorts (notes so far)

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Laura Griffin Tailoring Techniques Level 2

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1) Identify and name the main standard body sections when taking measurements for men and women

Men:

Chest
Neck circumference
Scye depth
Half back
Shoulder
Shoulder to wrist
Wrist
Waist
Waist to hip
Hip
Seat
Body rise
Waist to knee
Waist to floor
Inside leg
Ankle

Women

Bust
Waist
Hips
Back width
Chest
Front length
Shoulder
Neck circumference
Shoulder to wrist
Top arm
Wrist
Waist to hip
Waist to floor
Body rise
Seat
Nape to waist
Ankle

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https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/01/the-guide-to-cloth-weaves-and-designs.html

https://www.yorkshirefabric.com/collections/birdseye/products/dark-navy-blue-birdseye-super-100s-all-wool-suiting

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Garment Construction/Pattern Cutting - Andy Jaggernauth

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Laura Griffin Tailoring Techniques Level 2 - Andy Jaggernauth

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https://www.rampleyandco.com/blogs/the-journal/mens-suit-fabrics-our-complete-guide

https://www.learnaboutwool.com/globalassets/law/resources/factsheets/secondary/gd0317-secondary-fact-sheet_p1_v5.pdf

https://www.hockerty.uk/en-uk/info/our-fabrics/suit/

https://www.heddels.com/2016/09/know-your-wools-cashmere-lambswool-angora-and-more/

https://www.mainlinemenswear.co.uk/blog/2016/guide-suit-fabrics

https://www.contrado.co.uk/blog/what-is-viscose/

https://www.contrado.co.uk/blog/what-is-polyester-a-closer-look-into-this-love-it-or-hate-it-fabric/

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1) Identify at least three different fabrics and explain why they are suitable for suiting.

'Worsted Wool' - 100% worsted woollen cloth has characteristics such as high absorbency, strength, resilient, readily takes dyes and is a good insulator due to its fibre structure. Wool has a high percentage of stretch and can withstand permanent damage if the duration of the stretch is short. During the carding process of worsted wool any short or brittle fibres are removed, leaving only long and strong fine fibres which create extremely smooth, lightweight and expensive fabrics. Due to these features worsted wool is a very popular and versatile choice of suiting as it can be used to produce different types of cloth such as tweed, flannel, gabardine and fresco.

'Linen' - Linen is used to create lightweight suiting typically for worn in warmer weather. Linen's properties include a loose woven structure allowing the cloth to breathe, keeping the person wearing it cool. It is a natural fibre and so can readily take dye and has high absorbency, making it a very comfortable fabric in hot weather. It is also durable and strong, however due to it's low elasticity, if it is repeatedly ironed in the same area, the fibres will eventually break down.

'Wool/polyester blend' - Polyester has low absorbency making it resistant to stains and also resists shrinking so will not stretch out of shape. By blending wool and polyester the cloth will marry the features of both fibres, creating a comfortable cloth that insulates but doesn't wrinkle easily. This may also be a less expensive option for a client.

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7) Identify key health and safety issues that are likely to arise in the practice of tailoring techniques.

Sharp tools could cause pricking or cutting of fingers/hands, such as:
Needles
Snips
Scissors
Pins

- If using needle use thimble / if carrying equipment they must be concealed within leather cases in case they're dropped.
- Scissors must be held properly, blades with hands pointed down if carried.

Using machinery could cause pricking, stitching or cutting through fingers or hand such as:
Sewing machine
Overlocker

- Make sure to keep hands and fingers away from needle when machine is turned on.
- Do not wear loose clothing and have hair tied back so that it's not caught in machine.
- Wear appropriate footwear and sit on appropriate chair to prevent back ache.
- Do not change or thread needles while machine is turned on.
- Do not use pedal as foot rest.
- Do not overlock fabric with pins it in.
- Make sure to utilise machine guards.

Presser

- Keep hands and arms away from sole plate and be mindful of hot steam.
- Do not let wires get tangled.
- Do not reach across the iron.
- Do not leave the iron on the ironing board.

Insufficient lighting could damage eyesight in the classroom.

Working at a bench or table that is not the right height could cause damage to body.

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2) Identify different types of lining and explain why they are suitable for tailoring.

'Viscose' - Smooth to the touch and has high absorbency and good drape. It is also anti static, has naturally bright fibres so it can be dyed in bright colours. It is also lightweight which is desirable for a lining fabric and will feel comfortable against the skin. Viscose is also a relatively inexpensive fabric in comparison to other lining choices, however is more likely to crease.

'Silk' - A client may prefer to pay for a more expensive choice for lining, silk is a strong natural fibre. Silk is revered for its smoothness and it is very absorbent, meaning that it takes dye readily. The fibres are fine making it extremely lightweight giving it incomparable drape to other fabrics. Silk is also a great insulator making it comfortable to wear in both hot and cold climates.

'Polyester' - Polyester is a cheaper alternative for lining. It has many good qualities however such as being crease and mildew resistant and isn't so likely to stretch out of shape. It is a strong fabric that can be dyed easily and keeps its shape.

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3) What body measurements are needed for drafting or trouser making? (3.1)

Waist
Hips
Body rise
Waist to knee
Waist to floor
Knee
Inner leg
Ankle

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6) Explain any alterations from personal measurement to standard or reverse when developing your trousers. (3.3)

I would need to increase the size of my pattern around all areas, as my measurements taken to draft a pair of trousers are all slightly larger than a standard size 10. I would therefore most likely create my own draft instead of working from a standard size block.

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4) Show a list of standard body measurements and personal measurements.

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5) Compare standard measurements to personal measurement for each section. Write a brief statement on comparison. (3.2)

Generally I am slightly larger than average size 10 but smaller than average size 12 however, I have a shorter than average torso.