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http://www.mapplethorpe.org/

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An American Photographer. His work was a variety of subjects, such as: Celebrity portraits, self - portraits, still life and male and female nudes. His images are monotone ( black and white). He liked to show details through his black and white images.

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Monotone image, various tones of greys and blacks. In my opinion this shot was taken in a studio with studio lights, I reckon two studio lights were used in this shoot, the lights are directly looking at the wall, and the subject is sitting a little further out, this way the subject wearing all black is darker than the wall area, the white background n studio lights give it a lighter tone of grey as the image is monotone.

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The artist really wanted to show the beauty of this woman, the artist wanted to highlight her features on her face, he used a black background to give it this effect. I think the artist used one diffused studio light directing on her face. By making sure everything was completely black behind her , it made sure you could really see her beautiful features. On this image there is darker tones of greys and blacks

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On this image the artist is showing strong tonal effects. In this image i feel the artist used one studio light, full blast light, the light direction seems to be from the side, i can see lighter shades of grey on the right hand side, the wall is nearest to white, whilst on the left hand side there is darker grey and black shading.

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On this image, the artist really wanted to show the white flower, he really wanted his subject to really stand out. He used a black background on this image, maybe two studio lights, both of them slightly next to each other looking at the flower, this way the studio lights can show the flower in great detailed. On this image there is a few grey areas but mostly is white and black

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This image has a mixture of darkness to greys and whites. This shot seems like it has been taken in the studio with a really black background, the studio light is opposite the hand, it seems that there may be some side lights because of the effect on this image, this image looks like the hand of a man is holdind fire in his hand.

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The artist really wanted to show fine detail on this image of his, i love the way that the background is so black , the studio lights seems to be full blast from the left hand side as i see the light coming through the corner down to the flower, the stick and flower seems like is in the air, the stick is dark and light grey toned and flower almost all white.

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This image has got very strong tones of black. I think there are two studio lights on this set, one full bright studio light on a tripod that is opposite this mans face, the other light is a little lower with a diffuser as tall as the mans hands. I believe this because his head and hands are the lightest part of the image.

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The shoot was taken in the studio, i think there are two studio lights, both with a diffuser because the light is very soft on this image. In my opinion ther is one light on the right hand side closest to the wall rather than directly on the subject, the other light may be on the far left hand corner as the petals on the flowers are a very light grey almost to white but not pure white. This image looks like the is wind coming from the right hand side, where the flowers are almost dropping to the side. Two toned of dark and light grey background.

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I love this image, There is various light tones of greys and white, In my opinion there could be three studio lights directly into the subject, this image gives the effect almost as its in motion whilst looking at it. The artist really knew how to show the contrast of the background to the mummy effect, and how her mouth defines the darkest area of this image.

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This image has various tones of greys, The artist seems like he is shooting in a studio for this shot. This black and white image is very detailed, it seems like the artist is using two studio lights, one of them maybe with a diffusier, this way is not so bright, it gives it a softer effect. I reckon the light comes from the side and underneath nearest to his body, because on this image I can see that his body on the bottom of the image is lighter than the head of the image. On the top of the image we can see is a little darker and there is more shadow behind on the head area

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ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE:

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http://www.famousphotographers.net/karl-blossfeldt

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karl_Blossfeldt

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It was my first time using a manual film camera, it was not that easy, I decided to focus on hands as it was easier for others to expose that part of their bodies. I had to take 25 images, the focus on the camera was really hard to see, I did not have much idea on how to focus properly, I know I found this so tricky and all my images did come out quite blurry. I'm not really happy with my images. On my last print it was difficult to get the right light exposure, my image is a little over exposed. If I was to improve this part of my work I would definitely take my time a little more when taking the images, this way I would not make my images blurry and I would definitely exposed my image for 8 seconds instead of 10. Im not truly happy with my print

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On my projections, I experimented with my image, I used different backgrounds, I added other images to combine with mine. I tried to give it a different effect every time I took a photograph. I even tried taking a shadow on myself and took my own photograph.

My favourite image is the one I took with my college showing her back and she is standing in from on my image, the second one to the left, I love this image because you can actually see the flower of my image projecting into her black hoodie, its giving it an amazing effect, 3D effect, it almost seems like the flower is popping out of my image. If there is anything I would improve if having another opportunity is that I would experiment with more people standing in from of my image to see what the projector would show me and make it more interesting.

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F 4
10 seconds light exposure

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F4
4 seconds

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I developed my negative print, this allowed me to see how my images turned out, and from this print I chose an image to print as my final image.

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F 4
4 seconds each strip, I kept covering it with black board to get the next strip darker and darker.

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F 5.6
exposed for 14 seconds
Dodge it for 10 seconds

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Test strip: I used F4 and exposed for 4 seconds each time.

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These photographs are beautiful, they have many grey tones in the right places, so detailed. His work is very black and white, different shades of blacks, grey tones and whites. Karl's work is very specific close- ups of beautiful plants. Karl's photographs flows like masterpieces, i love how the lighting seems so calm, so content, the lighting is so soft, almost as he used difusiers on his lights on the studio, some of them are more intense than others, but even the darkest ones is not fully black, is like a dark tone of grey. The way he arranges his plants it give us the impression of the plant becoming a shape, such a heart, spine etc. Karl Blossfeldt structured his work in a very architectural way with a gorgeous elegance with it.

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(1865-1932)
A German photographer, sculptur. Karl Blossfeldt known for his close- ups photographs. He focused on plants such as: twigs, seeds, leaves etc. Karl enjoyed nature so therefore used it on his work.

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When processing the film, and the developer is pour in the tank at 21 degrees, it is important to tap the bottom of the tank a few times, this helps to get rid of the air bubbles. Agitate the tank slowly, turning it upside down the back again five times. then let the tank rest for 30 seconds. Then agitate again. Repeat the process until the 9 minutes is over. Remove the cap keeping the funnel in place and pour the developer out down the sink. Quickly pour the stop bath into the tank, putting cap back on and agitate the tank about 30 seconds, then pour the fixer, again agitate continuously every 30 seconds for about 4 minutes. Once this is done, you can wash the film for 20 minutes, keeping water running . once the 20 minutes is over, finish washing the film with a bit of washing agent, this helps to prevent any water spots. Then put your negatives to dry.

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Its important to be able to get all the chemicals ready before starting the process of developing anything.
We were 19 students in the class, we had to use D76 developer, developer in powder form.
As a class we had to calculate how much developer we needed, this way there is no wasting any developer, we added an extra person just in case any accidents. We worked out that each the powder developer needs 3 litres of hot water,  then gently use a funnel to empty the powder form of developer, this way it does not go everywhere, then add another 800 millilitres.

We know that 300 millilitres goes into one tank.
300 millilitres of Developer
300 millilitres of stop
300 millilitres of fixer

We worked out that:
20 people needed:
300 x 20= 6000 millilitres is what we need to make altogether. This will make sure there is enough Developer for everyone in the group.

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On this task i had to use a manual roll of film camera. I used a black and white roll of film with 24 images.
I had to try and get really good of blacks, grey and white contrasts. I had to take nude images, i decided to take images of hands.  I used a studio light.

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A sketch of the enlarger to show the names and functions.

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The first step would be to insert the negative into the carrier.
The shiny side must be at the top when inserting it into the carrier, once this is done the carrier can be inserted into the enlarger.

Arrange and focus your image:
This is the second step, the enlarger can then be switched on so you can open up the aperture on the enlarger, this is to be able to arrange and focus your image, it is important to focus your image, there is a knob on the enlarger that allows you to raise and lower the lens, i could see how the image went in and out of focus. I found that by using a magnifier it can help to see the grain of your negative and this can help for the image to become more clear.

Making a test strip:
I made a test strip to practice this task, and this is how i done it:
First i went to my enlarger,  stop down the aperture on my enlarger a few stops from its widest setting, once this was done i turned off the light on the enlarger. I then set the enlarger time for 4 seconds on the timer and checked that it was working. The safety lights came on once we all got it all set up, then i picked up my test strip, i placed my test strip into my image , then i was ready to expose the whole strip for 4 seconds, the i covered 1/5 of the strip with a piece of black card, then again expose for 4 seconds, and then another 4 seconds, moving the black card along until i ran out of test strip. This is so i would get 5 different exposures of my image.

Developing my test strip:
Once i done all the above i was then ready to develop my test strip. My test strip went into the developer for 1 minute and 30 seconds,  then i put it in the stop for 30 seconds, the stop bath stops for the developer from working.

My test strip came out with 5 different shade sections. My strip was in my opinion quite well exposed, but if the test strip was overexposed or underexposed, the aperture on the enlarger can be changed. When i was able to see my strip once developed, i would then decide how long to print a whole image, i had to look at the different shades on my test strip and decide which one was the best textured and detailed.

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Enlarger
Timer
Printing paper
Focusing magnifier
scissors
Developing trays Chemicals( developer, stop, fixer)
Tongs
Easel

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It is very important that once you have printed your print that they is full range of tones to allow the image to become perfect.

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Once the photographs have been taken on the camera roll and the camera roll can not take any more photographs, it it important to roll the the film and once that is done, the roll of film can go back inside the canister whilst getting the room ready to develop it.

EQUIPMENT NEEDED:

SPOOL
TANK
FUNNEL
CAP
CENTER COLUMN
SCISSORS
CAN OPENER

To develop photographs, it is important to get the room ready by mixing the chemicals and making sure all your equipment is ready because the dark room must be in complete darkness, no light must get in.
Once the process is in action you must open up the canister and take the film out, very carefully, this way the roll does not go everywhere, using a bottle opener will help removing the film from the cassette. Using the scissors afterwards to cut off the half-width strip at the beginning of the film. The second step is to use the spool and the spool would have two teeth, which is called the entry fanes, the roll of film can slowly go in and by twisting the spool back and forth in opposite direction, the film would slowly and neatly roll into it, once you get to the end of the film, you would need to cut off the end of the film, then continue to pull the film until the end of the film is in the reel. The third step would be to get the tank and the funnel, the funnel would then be used, this is a little tube that goes in the middle of the spool, after doing this it is important to use another spool because then this would go into the tank and once this is done, the tank can be locked with the lid. If  using a two reel tank, when developing one reel, it is important to use an empty reel on top of the loaded one, this will help the reel moving everywhere when you carefully move it around. It is important to do that otherwise, the photographs would not come out properly.
Once all of that is done and the camera film is safe in the tank, the lights can come back on.

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On this task i was asked to get some sticks or any dead leaf/plants.

The idea was to be able to use a camera with the camera roll of film.
we had to set up 4 stages which were a table, they had to be equally spaced out in the room.
Each stage needed a light set up on stands and each light needed a diffusion on it.

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CAMERA ROLL
SPOOL X2
FUNNEL
TANK
CENTRE COLUMN

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SPOOL

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Film roll:  There are film rolls, you can get different exposures, depending on the film roll you would like to buy or have.

Different types of cameras:
There are different types of cameras that can be used to take these photographs.

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On this task I had to print my own projection photograph on an transparency paper, this paper allows you to be able to project your image. Before printing, it was important to open my photograph on Photoshop, whilst on Photoshop I had to crop the image and make it black and white before print.

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On this task I had to print my own projection photograph on an transparency paper, this paper allows you to be able to project your image. Before printing, it was important to open my photograph on Photoshop, whilst on Photoshop I had to crop the image and make it black and white before print.

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My next step was to use different ideas to create 10 different images/ photographs.

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The use of an equipment and light that can cause an image or an object to be seen on a screen.

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The use of an equipment and light that can cause an image or an object to be seen on a screen.

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Using projectors in art photography it can increase the colours and brightness on the image and can become more defined

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Equipment that was used throughout these processes:

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Equipment that was used throughout these processes: