# data[].attributes.body
Using the about us page on urbanoutfitters.com to create an understanding of their target market and what consumers they are looking for

# data[].attributes.body
This article really isnpired me to create a unisex range as the new generation are beginning to seek out a more versatile and androgynous style as a means of self discovery.

"Many people don't feel like they need to wear one type of clothing just because society dictates it," says Bobby Bonaparte, co-founder of  unisex label Older Brother.

# data[].attributes.body
Urban Outfitters report, indication of challenges and problems faced by the brand.

# data[].attributes.body
Retail Viewpoint – Urban Outfitters Q1 results, for the period ended 30 April 2020

Although the sales numbers from Urban Outfitters are bad, they are not quite as bad as those of many other apparel retailers.

The pandemic had a negative impact on Urban Outfitters’ sales during the
quarter. However, a strong online offering helped to offset some of the
lost trade.

# data[].attributes.body
-Create Action Plan for project (05.01.21)
-Research UO and Bape - (06.01.21)
- Customer Profile Survey on SurveyMonkey sent to class and family friends (07.01.21)

# data[].attributes.body
WGSN Research (05.01.21)
Buyers' Briefing A/W 21/22 Menswear Key Details
Details/trends I like from this WGSN Brief that I want to include in my range:

'MODULAR DESIGN' e.g. removable pockets/zips

'QUILTED INSULATION'

# data[].attributes.body
This article on the history of the brand BAPE gave me a deeper understand of the brand and the creator and how BAPE got their respect in the streetwear communtity (06.01.21)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
To celebrate the launch of Highsnobiety Japan, we're exhibiting the numerous ways in which Japanese culture intersects with our publication's points of interest. This piece is an in-depth look at the history of one of Japan's original streetwear brands and its evolution into globally recognized name, read onward for everything you need to know about BAPE.
The year is 2018, and BAPE is one of the most hyped brands in streetwear. When you first discover this culture and start doing your history research, Nigo's label, aka A Bathing Ape, is in Chapter One. But as we've discussed at length over here lately, the last few years have been interesting for streetwear, because now it's mainstream.

In an age where music is virtually free and everything else is little more than a click away on the internet, the youth have turned their attentions (and their wallets) to fashion and clothes as the means of expressing themselves. In any major developed city around the world, you're likely to see kids wearing box logos. Style-conscious consumers, from your 6-year-old cousin to your law firm partner uncle, are looking for a pair of Yeezys. And Palace Skateboards is globally-renowned as being "better for bunning".

In times like these, you'd be totally forgiven for assuming this is the way things had always been. Personally, I struggle to wrap my head around the fact that Supreme London now has queues around the block virtually every single day, when only a few years back it was a race between about 20 of the same guys to get to Hideout (RIP) on a Saturday morning in the hopes of being able to buy one of the three caps they may or may not have received on that particular week. Don't get me wrong; this isn't some " old man yells at cloud "-esque 'you kids don't know how good you've got it' rant. All I'm saying is things have changed.

With the hype more fervent than ever, it feels like what sometimes gets lost is the perspective of a style movement that's been going for over 25 years now, and nowhere is that more evident than with A Bathing Ape. The brand has experienced a return to vogue amongst the general consumer these days, with kids eager to own their own piece of clothing adorned with the iconic BAPE camo pattern.

What gets lost in the current trends, I worry, is the virtually dynastic history of the brand and its founder, Nigo. Supreme might be the master of the weekly hype machine these days, but it was A Bathing Ape that arguably created the model, and not without a few bumps along the way. So here's a guide to the history, hype and hysteria of one of streetwear's first true "lifestyle brands" - A Bathing Ape.

Origins of the Iconic BAPE Logo

Like most of the Japanese streetwear icons, BAPE's roots can be traced back to the ura-Harajuku scene of the early '90s. Most of today's heavyweights - Shin Takazawa of Neighborhood, Tetsu Nishiyama of WTaps, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Sk8thing and so on - were actually a group of friends in the same scene, each doing their own thing and helping each other out along the way.

After a few years working as an editor and stylist at Popeye magazine, Nigo opened up his store 'Nowhere' with Jun Takahashi of Undercover, and shortly after worked with Sk8thing to launch his own clothing brand, A Bathing Ape - or BAPE.

Nigo is a notorious fan of 20th century pop culture, and channelled his love for the 1968 film Planet of the Apes in the name and iconic BAPE logo, as well as referring to the Japanese idiom 'A bathing ape in lukewarm water.' The phrase is used to describe somebody who overindulges, like lying in a bath until the water isn't even hot anymore, so was an almost tongue-in-cheek reference to the same hyper-consumptive youth that would eventually form the cornerstone of his brand.

Big in Japan

With its mixture of imported American street and sportswear and pioneering Japanese streetwear labels like WTaps-predecessor Forty Percents Against Rights, Nowhere quickly became a cornerstone of the burgeoning ura-Harajuku scene, with Nigo as one of its figureheads.

Alongside Neighborhood, Hysteric Glamour and other such brands, A Bathing Ape and Nowhere helped to define the "Urahara" style of the '90s. Urahara comes from the term 'ura-Harajuku' which basically means "underground Harajuku" - the underground scene going during the early '90s which was heavily informed by a mixture of various American clothings and styles.

Through associations with the International Stüssy Tribe and James Lavelle of UNKLE & Mo'Wax records, BAPE was quickly established as a cultural tastemaker in Tokyo, as well as a best-kept secret in closed circles abroad - someone's friend would go to Japan, bring back some clothes and a few magazines, and the hype would slowly spread through word of mouth alone.

The Power of Exclusivity

The original reason for BAPE's scarcity was arguably one of financial necessity - Nigo started out on a tight budget and only afford to produce around 50 T-shirts a week - but he also disliked the idea of everyone wearing the same thing.

By 1998 the brand was stocked in around 40 locations across Japan, but Nigo then made the bold move of canceling all wholesale operations, instead focusing all of his energy on a single flagship location in Tokyo. Sales quickly exceeded their previous levels and the fundamental streetwear formula of hype, scarcity and public spectacle was born - and arguably birthed streetwear's queuing culture that we know and love (or loathe) today.

The Pharrell Years

The late '90s to early '00s are generally cited as the golden era of BAPE, with product rapidly selling out in Japan and fashion-savvy figures like The Notorious B.I.G. giving the brand some healthy kudos in hip-hop culture. In the early '00s Nigo was introduced to Pharrell Williams through Jacob the Jeweller, who noted the two's similar tastes in jewelry commissions.

Well-known for his laidback persona and youthful free spirit, BAPE's bright and flashy aesthetic fit perfectly with Pharrell's personal style, and his success was coupled with a greater attention being paid to BAPE stateside, though the brand remained scarce due to the absence of American stockists.

In 2005, Pharrell and Nigo partnered up on the N*E*R*D frontman's Billionaire Boys Club & Ice Cream clothing lines, and the flashy, playful and oversized aesthetic of BAPE became a mainstay of millennial hip-hop fashion. In 2005 and 2006, BAPE's first overseas flagship stores were opened in New York and Los Angeles, and Kanye West designed his own pair of the brand's coveted Bapesta sneaker.

Then, in 2007, the notorious video for Soulja Boy's 'Crank Dat' was released, featuring Soulja Boy's own Bapestas heavily (though their authenticity has been called into question) along with the line, 'I got me some Bathin' Ape'. That was it; BAPE entered the cultural zeitgeist and claimed its throne as the pinnacle of flashy, expensive streetwear.

The Steady Decline & Nigo's Departure

Though the BAPE story wouldn't be the same without its meteoric rise to success in the States, the brand's newfound popularity brought with it a number of problems. Scarcity of product in the U.S., combined with BAPE's unusually high prices for young western consumers, led to the proliferation of counterfeit product, saturating the market before the brand could find its feet. BAPE's relatively-sudden explosion also meant that its popularity became more of a fad or passing trend than the slow and carefully-cultivated hype that it had built in Japan.

By 2010 the brand had fallen out of vogue, and it emerged that A Bathing Ape had amassed over 2.5 billion yen ($22.5 million) in debt. Nigo stepped down from the company as CEO, and in 2011 the brand was sold to Hong Kong fashion conglomerate I.T for a paltry $2.8 million. Over the next two years Nigo stayed with the company to assist with the transition, launching his new vintage-inspired label Human Made and taking on a new role as Creative Director of Uniqlo's 'UT' T-shirt line.

Since its acquisition by I.T, BAPE has settled as a mainstay label of contemporary streetwear; though the brand is nowhere near as scarce and unpredictable as it used to be, its legacy as one of the original streetwear icons, as well as its deep connections in hip-hop and street culture, has seen the brand endure with a much broader audience.

Once-coveted rarities like BAPE shark hoodies and insulated snow jackets have become mainstay pieces every season, and the brand's iconic camo is now one of the most prolific graphics of contemporary street style. To many of the older heads, the BAPE of today has little in common with its roots, but whether that's a good or bad thing is, frankly, a matter of perspective. In 2017, it's still a brand defined by its young, consumptive audience's voracious appetite for anything on offer, so in many ways it's the same as it ever was.

Buying BAPE Online

One of the hardest parts of buying BAPE online in the early '00s was the lack of official or reputable outlets on the Internet, making it a much bigger gamble grabbing pieces off of eBay or online forums.

Fortunately that's not so much the case these days, with the BAPE online store offering a healthy selection of product over at bape.com, as well as trusted retailers like END., Selfridges and Undefeated coming through with a strong offer every season. Even looking for older pieces and forgotten relics is much easier thanks to the likes of Grailed, Depop and Facebook buyer/seller groups, whilst eBay has become a much easier place to navigate.

Be warned, however; the risk of buying counterfeit product from an unofficial seller is as real as ever, but there are comprehensive guides on how to identify fakes available with a simple Google search. If you're not an expert on BAPE product (and to be honest, even if you are), take the time to learn what you're buying and save yourself the hassle of opening up a package full of fake garments bought from some sketchy BAPE Online Discount Bargain Super Value Outlet.

Pro-tip: I can't speak for other countries, but in the UK if you purchase something online with a debit card which turns out to be fake, you'll have a hard time getting your money back. If you pay with a credit card, however, your bank will reverse the charge immediately and leave it up to the seller to prove the product's authenticity. Credit cards - not always your worst enemy.

Buying From a BAPE Shop

If you're not fortunate enough to live in Tokyo, buying BAPE at an actual store can be a real task. For a long while in the UK and the United States, product stayed pretty much tied up exclusively in the brand's flagship stores. Since I.T's takeover, however, things have laxed up a little bit, and there are loads of options for where to buy BAPE, with the added luxury of trying it on before you buy.

In the UK, there's now a permanent BAPE shop in London's Selfridges department store, decked out in the brand's inimitable camo and neon décor, while END.'s two brick-and-mortar locations in Newcastle and Glasgow have got the Northern customers well-catered for.

As for the USA, beyond the BAPE shop in New York, many of the heavyweight streetwear retailers such as RSVP Chicago and Concepts Boston are certified stockists of the brand, while Undefeated 's stores have got the West coast well and truly covered.

Asian heads have the best deal, naturally. You'll find a BAPE shop in every corner of Japan, with myriad outposts dotted around China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Korea, Taipei and Thailand.

Head to the BAPE online store for a full list of brick-and-mortar retailers.

Why is BAPE so expensive?

Very few discussions about BAPE ever pass by without that vital inquiry; just why, exactly, is BAPE so expensive? The thing is, with a lot of Japanese brands, there's a long list of reasons behind their pricing structure; higher standards of quality, better healthcare and wages for Japanese manufacturers, a consumer perspective in Japan that good product is worth having and worth paying the price for, and so on.

The thing with BAPE though, these days at least, is that none of that is really the case. The product is mostly made in China. The quality, though still good compared to your average mall brand, is really nothing special. And as for its reputation in Japan, BAPE is hardly an exceptional label. In fact, it's so common over there that most people probably wouldn't bat an eye at it.

So why is BAPE so expensive? Sit down for the revelation: because it just is. Remember the meaning behind the name? Complacent and over-indulgent youth? Ding ding ding. BAPE is expensive because it's an expensive brand for kids with too much money, and that tongue-in-cheek treatment of its customer just ended up also being one of its strongest appeals.

Of course, there's also the fact that a premium brand has to charge premium prices to maintain the customer's view of it, but there's really not much else there to BAPE. The brand's "patent leather" Bapesta sneakers were often made of plastic and cracked and chipped after just a few wears. The T-shirts, though definitely a cut above once upon a time, are now just bog-standard tees with a little woven label, and the rest of the garments, however well-made and layered with details, are still made in China for Chinese labour costs. So yeah. BAPE is expensive because BAPE is expensive. Tune in next week for more grand revelations.

Behind the BAPE Shark Hoodie

Alongside a handful of items like the Bapesta, camo outerwear and legendary lifestyle products, the BAPE Shark hoodie is probably one of the most iconic garments in A Bathing Ape history. First released in 2004, its outlandish design and slew of unique details really pushed that idea of BAPE as offering something that you couldn't get anywhere else. It was a perfect blend of timely stylishness and quirky gimmicks that meant anyone wearing it was destined to turn heads, and just like Supreme's own super-hyped box logo hoodies, was characterised by its scarcity and various iterations which meant anyone who bought one felt like they were getting their own little piece of exclusivity.

The hoodie's distinctive 'shark' design on the hood is actually taken from military artwork that would be placed on the nose of fighter planes or even the hulls of battleships. The distinctive tiger 'a' symbol obviously stands for A Bathing Ape, while the accompanying 'WGM' chenille varsity patches stand for 'World Gone Mad', and the full-zip hood feature was a somewhat anomalous feature at the time which opened the Shark Hoodie up to all sorts of edgy and unique photo opportunities. While the original BAPE Shark hoodie featured a simple block-color with a half-woodland camo hood, later iterations would incorporate other Bape insignias into their designs, such as BAPE Camo, the Bapesta Star and the brand's distinctive plaid pattern.

Though the BAPE Shark Hoodie is a lot easier to get hold of today than it was when it first released, it remains a coveted piece of streetwear history for a number of reasons. Firstly, it's so distinctive that anyone "in the know" who sees it immediately knows what it is. Secondly, averaging at around $300 retail, they're expensive as hell which, coupled with the first point, makes it highly appealing to the streetwear community's love of letting other grown men in the street know how much money they spent on a piece of clothing from just a glance.

Behind the BAPE Camo

Also known as the 'Cloud Camo', the iconic BAPE Camo print is perhaps the most fascinating element of the brand, as a graphic which has totally transcended streetwear to become one of the most iconic motifs of the past two decades.

The graphic blends a number of different elements in its design; firstly, its obvious reference to military camouflage fits perfectly with the Japanese (and entire fashion world's) fascination with military clothing. Where camouflage is traditionally designed to conceal and hide, however, the BAPE camo manages to flip the script and become something that you just can't ignore.

Secondly, with its blobby, "hyperflat" design inspired by traditional duck-hunting camouflage, BAPE camo brings the glossy, cartoon-esque, fun and fantastical element of Japanese fashion to life without being kitschy or corny. Tokyo is the home of Hello Kitty, anime, collectible dolls and kawaii culture, and there's unquestionably an element of that in that splodgy, super-smooth motif. It makes military seem less serious, and it makes irreverence seem more dignified.

But thirdly, and perhaps most interestingly, it's worth considering BAPE camo in the light of Nigo's idol - Andy Warhol. Just as Andy Warhol wanted to make everyday, mass-manufactured culture into a work of art, there's something very high-meets-low culture in the way Nigo has plastered BAPE camo in blue, pink, red and green onto any surface he can get his hands on.

Over the years BAPE have released their own-brand fishing gear, transformers dolls, condoms and even toilet roll, but the moment you put an object in camo, it's no longer simply an object. It's BAPE. Seriously; how many people do you think actually took that BAPE toilet roll home and used it? And how many do you think still have it sitting on a shelf in their living room? Toilet roll. On display. That's real power.

Behind A Bathing Ape x adidas Originals

The BAPE sneaker hype was fired up again not too long ago with the release of a BAPE camo iteration of adidas' instant sell-out NMD silhouette, but there's a lot more to BAPE x adidas Originals than meets the eye.

The idea of a collaboration first came to light in the early '00s when Nigo was introduced to adidas brand consultant, and founder of adidas Spezial, Gary Aspden through Stone Roses singer and notorious BAPE head Ian Brown.

Working closely with revered Japanese designer Kazuki Kuraishi, Nigo and Aspden facilitated the creation of four 'Super Ape Star' silhouettes which incorporated key BAPE insignia and motifs into the iconic adidas Superstar silhouette. This was later followed by four mid-top 'Super Ape Skate' silhouettes which revived the hype.

It was a long time before the brands would meet again in 2011, but the significance of the first BAPE x adidas Originals releases shouldn't' be underestimated. In 2003 the idea of a sportswear brand collaborating with anything other than an athlete was virtually unheard of in the west. Having only just launched in 2001, adidas Originals dared to join forces with another brand under the powerful mantra of 'The Respect is Mutual' and do something completely different.

Judging by everything that's happened in the years that followed, BAPE x adidas was the right gamble.

BAPE: It's a Lifestyle

As mentioned earlier on in this article, BAPE was one of the first fashion labels to create products encompassing every corner of everyday life, allowing streetwear fans to literally live a BAPE-branded lifestyle. Beyond clothes and sneakers, the brand has produced kitchenware, furniture, toiletries, fishing hooks, bed linen, skateboards and much more. Nowadays every brand produces wildcard products, from Supreme and Palace all the way up to Louis Vuitton and Comme des Garçons, but BAPE was one of the true pioneers of the "lifestyle brand" concept.

Beyond BAPE: Human Made

When Nigo sold BAPE to I.T in 2011, it signalled the end of an era in streetwear. Fortunately, Nigo didn't sit still for long before moving on to new endeavors. Though he stayed with the company for two years as a Creative Director, he quickly launched his new brand, Human Made. Drawing from Nigo's fascination with vintage American workwear, Human Made saw the designer working with Japanese reproduction specialists Warehouse Japan on creating high quality clothing inspired by authentic pieces from Nigo's archive.

Compared to the bright, poppy, futuristic aesthetic of BAPE, the brand was a stark departure from his previous output, but some signs of his influence remained - a number of graphics were designed by long-time Nigo collaborator (and C.E founder) Sk8thing, the BAPE logo featured an ape's face, and interior labels even featured a line from a Planet of the Apes film: 'You are scientifically advanced but there remains a question as to how civilized.' Oh, and it's really fucking expensive, so that hasn't changed.

Beyond BAPE: The Sotheby's Auction

If the multitude of references in his designs wasn't a big enough clue, Nigo is a notorious pop culture fanatic, collecting all sorts of ephemera from over the years; Star Wars figurines, Warhol paintings, games consoles, Eames furniture, cars and much more.

In late-2014, Nigo set streetwear heads and pop culture collectors alike drooling with the announcement of an auction of his collection, presented in association with famed auction house Sotheby's. Original Batman toys were offered alongside custom Goyard luggage, luxury watches, BAPE camo couches, even a Gucci Christmas tree designed by Tom Ford. Many of the pieces ended up selling for prices far beyond the estimates, proving yet again that outsiders will always underestimate the fanboyism of streetwear heads. Full BAPE camo couch for $20,000? Can't even hate, I would too.

Beyond BAPE: AAPE by A Bathing Ape

When Nigo initially sold A Bathing Ape to I.T, there were plenty theories floating around the rumor mill as to what motivated the sale. One of the more popular theories was that BAPE was in pretty bad financial straits - not so hard to believe considering Nigo's well-documented frivolous spending.

Whether there's truth to these rumors or not, there's no doubt that one of the first things I.T did when they took control was implement a stable, profitable business model. Coveted grails became regular items, BAPE camo became more prominent than ever, and the collaboration machine went into overdrive.

One of the more unexpected introductions, however, was the creation of a new sub-label: AAPE by A Bathing Ape. Releasing at a slightly lower price point with subtle aesthetic differences in its design language, AAPE by A Bathing Ape was targeted at the mainstream Asian market in China, Hong Kong and beyond as well as more casual consumers around the world.

As many BAPE fanatics quickly worked out, AAPE by A Bathing Ape was just similar enough that your average teenage shopper wouldn't care that it wasn't BAPE-proper, but just different enough that perception of the OG BAPE brand wouldn't be damaged by BAPE aficionados. As the saying goes, if it don't make money, it don't make sense.

In a further move to mainstream profitability, BAPE would also go on to introduce a kids line, filled with cutesy versions of garments found in the brand's mainline.

Beyond BAPE: A Bathing Ape Black

A few years back when the Raf Simons/Rick Owens hype was arguably at its peak, pretty much every single streetwear brand out there was creating blacked-out collections making heavy use of slim, extended silhouettes, drop-crotch pants, draped layers and minimalist graphics. Never one to miss a trick, A Bathing Ape joined in with their own sub-line, A Bathing Ape Black.

More conventional than some of the other offerings, A Bathing Ape Black offered a range of essential BAPE designs in blacked-out color palettes, decorated with flashes of gold. The emphasis was quality and luxury, with embroidered details and premium materials, while lookbooks modeled by Chris Brown and Travi$ Scott cemented the aesthetic. I guess when you've built a reputation for expensive streetwear, the only direction to go is more expensive, right?

Beyond BAPE: Uniqlo UT

In 2013, Nigo achieved what might be any pop-art inspired creative's dream when he was hired as Creative Director for Uniqlo's graphic t-shirt line, UT. Far from days of printing 50 t-shirts a week and working on a shoestring budget, he's now the head honcho of one of the most broadly accessible clothing brands on the planet.

As you might expect, a large element of his work has been going through the Rolodex, connecting old friends with the high street heavyweight, and highlight releases have been his collaborations with Kaws, Futura, Coca-Cola and Asian instant messaging app Line. Selling out a couple hundred t-shirts is one thing. But selling out a KAWS collaboration globally? Twice? Different level.

BAPE opens new store in Paris

BAPE tied up 2017 with the announcement of their second European retail space, this time in Paris. To celebrate the new store opening, BAPE decked a Jaguar F-Pace is red/white/blue BAPE cloud camo (vive la France) and drove it around some of the French capital's most iconic locations.

The new interior featured metallic/glass furnishings, a neutral color palette, clean lines, framed graphic tees and notably, a pixelated BAPE camo print on the wall. Located on 34 Rue de la Verrerie (not more than a 10 minute walk from the Paris Supreme store), Highsnobiety went down to livestream the opening event with music from Busy P of Ed Banger records.

In case you missed it we also took some shots of the after-party, and naturally, were there to cover the street style featuring an abundance of, you guessed it, BAPE camo.

BAPE x Highsnobiety

In 2015 Highsnobiety celebrated its 10th year anniversary by collaborating with BAPE for a limited-edition short-sleeve T-shirt. Packaged in a cylindrical vacuum pack, the A Bathing Ape x Highsnobiety 10th Anniversary Tee featured the Highsnobiety logo in BAPE's distinctive ABC camo printed front-and-center on the chest, the iconic Ape Head logo tab on the sleeve, and the special A Bathing Ape x Highsnobiety 10th Anniversary logo, designed exclusively for the collaboration, printed on the back.
For a bigger scoop of BAPE, watch below. Now read about every UNIQLO collaboration you need to know about, from UNDERCOVER to Japanese Ramen restaurants.

Gregk Foley is a writer based in Berlin whose work explores the intersections of style, culture, politics and identity.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
BAPE: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know & Some Things You Didn't

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
To celebrate the launch of Highsnobiety Japan, we're exhibiting the numerous ways in which Japanese culture intersects with our publication's points of interest. This piece is an in-depth look at the history of one of Japan's original streetwear brands and its evolution into globally recognized name, read onward for everything you need to know about BAPE.

# data[].attributes.headline
URBAN OUTFITTERS CUSTOMER SURVEY RESPONSES 

# data[].attributes.subject
URBAN OUTFITTERS CUSTOMER SURVEY RESPONSES 

# data[].attributes.body
This survey was sent to the people in my class as well as family and friends (07.01.21)

Through doing this survey it was clear that the majority votes opinion was that Urban Outfitters was for the 18-24 year olds

69% of them said they do shop at Urban Outfitters

30% said they would be more likely to shop at UO over other high street stores

Over 50% said they do not shop online at UO

# data[].attributes.headline
New BAPE Flagship store opening in Mayfair

# data[].attributes.subject
New BAPE Flagship store opening in Mayfair

# data[].attributes.body
Information from GlobalData

# data[].attributes.body
This article talks about if unisex fashion is neccassary in todays fashion industry it's interesting to see how its now emerging into high street fashion and increasingly becoming more of a demand (14.01.21)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Not every fashion trend is worth paying attention to. Indeed, most are fleeting moments that generate little momentum before fizzling out, making room for the next batch. Some, however, are genuinely interesting, and have the potential to change the way we dress forever.

Take Marlon Brando, who, throughout the 1950s, defied the suit generation and popularised the T-shirt and jeans look, which continues to dominate wardrobes today. Then there was Mary Quant and the miniskirt in the '60s, helping to liberate many women from the confines of hemlines.

But, these may pale in comparison to a current movement in fashion: the decision by some brands to reduce dedicated 'male' and 'female' collections, and make unisex clothing. Clothes that aren't defined by gender; clothes that don't chase a predetermined demographic, but rather aim to be worn by just people. Inclusive clothing for a divided world, then? Or just another marketing fad conceived to sell more units?

What Is Unisex Fashion?

Quite simply, unisex clothes are garments that are designed without a specific gender in mind. Throughout time, society has dictated that men should dress in one way and women in another - it often starts in school, trousers and blue are for boys, skirts and pink for girls - but unisex fashion does away with all this.

For some, it represents more than just clothing. Tanmay Saxena, founder of London-based unisex label LaneFortyfive believes "it's already very hard to break the metaphorical walls and create equality in the times we live in. I feel unisex clothing is a small but effective way to roll out a line of conversation towards a broader dialogue about equality".

Stephen Doig, men's style editor at The Telegraph agrees: "It's a natural progression in a world where, thankfully, there's more acceptance of gender fluidity".

H&M's Denim United campaign

Current affairs editor at leading LGBT website PinkNews, Nick Duffy goes further, stating that unisex fashion is setting a new standard for the industry. "Unisex clothes are absolutely becoming the new normal in high street fashion. We're seeing more and more major brands acknowledge that clothes do not have a gender - whether that's launching specific unisex ranges, or removing gender-specific signage in-store and simply letting their products speak for themselves. This is really what fashion should be about, free from judgement and based on individual self-expression."

How Unisex Fashion Entered The Mainstream

Unisex clothing is not a new concept, although it's one that has only recently made it to the high street. Haute couture brands went first, of course, and more recently department stores and fast fashion chains have dabbled, realising that many of their consumers don't want to be defined by the label on their clothes, or the section of the store in which they shop.

In 2015 Selfridges launched its 'Agender' initiative, merging its menswear and womenswear sections as well as displaying unisex pieces from over 40 brands. A year later Zara put out its 'Ungendered' line - a selection of jeans, hoodies and shirts - and in 2017 H&M released 'Denim United', a collection of workwear staples designed for all. Shortly after, John Lewis removed the gender labels from all of its kids' clothing, in a move that drew plenty of praise (and some criticism, although Piers Morgan shouldn't count).

Alongside this high street action was high fashion, and certain celebrities who helped to drive unisex clothing to the fore. Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele has had a significant impact since introducing pussy bows and lace shirts in his first menswear shows of 2015 and only using svelte, androgynous models to wear his ungendered clothing. Michele transformed Gucci, and the rest of the luxury fashion set followed.

More recently, at his first ever Celine 2018 menswear show, Hedi Slimane announced in the accompanying press release that "the entire wardrobe worn by the male models is unisex, and therefore will also be available for women." Numerous other designers have been showcasing both menswear and womenswear together in recent seasons too, highlighted again this year by big hitters Burberry and Balenciaga.

The Celebrity Effect

Louis Vuitton's SS16 womenswear campaign

The list of public figures adopting unisex fashion is also increasing. Jaden Smith famously wore a skirt in Louis Vuitton's SS16 women's campaign, and has since incorporated traditionally feminine clothing into his personal style. In the world of hip-hop, an overtly masculine genre, American rapper Young Thug wore a floor-length purple dress on the cover of his Jeffrey mixtape in 2016 and Kanye West became known for a while for wearing skirts and oversized T-shirts.

More female actors than ever are choosing suits on the red carpet over gowns too - Rachel Wood out-dressed mostly everyone at the 2017 Golden Globes. Today's stars aren't the first to do it though. There was Prince during the '80s, Kurt Cobain who wore a dress on the cover of The Face in 1993, and of course, David Bowie.

Kurt Cobain on the cover of The Face

"It's hard to underestimate the impact David Bowie had on fashion", says menswear historian and author Josh Sims. "He broke free of the then still powerful norms of gendered dressing - make-up, hair colouring, androgyny; he broke the mould. This, remember, was an era of the three day week, strikes, of rampant nationalism, racism, sexism. It was a pretty grim, dark period. Bowie's dress sense was like switching on a lightbulb."

David Bowie on stage in 1973

Many of the current unisex collections available on the high street aren't as glamorous as a Ziggy Stardust stage outfit. Rather, they're often made up of versatile staples: sweatshirts, straight leg trousers, boxy T-shirts and oversized outerwear. While the high street won't be truly progressive until it offers skirts, dresses and traditionally feminine silhouettes as part of their unisex collections, this can be seen as a step forward.

Why Unisex Clothing Needs To Be On Your Radar

We Shouldn't Be Restricted By Gender

Lacoste SS19

As Saxena says, "a chef does not care for whether the food will be eaten by a person of a specific gender". So why should we care about whether we wear 'male' or 'female' clothing? If you like a piece of clothing and it fits in the way you intended, buy it - gender shouldn't come into it.

It Offers Clothing Options For Everyone

Zara's Ungendered campaign

We should be able to wear what we feel comfortable in and unfortunately for many, the choice of only two styles of clothing - male or female - isn't enough, and it doesn't fully represent the world we inhabit. Unisex bridges the gap somewhat, and "it's provoked an interesting conversation and shifted the goalposts in terms of [people] feeling more at ease" in what they wear, as Doig says.

You Could Be Supporting Slow Fashion

LaneFortyfive

Many brands that make unisex clothing are independent and produce small batches with considered designs. Take LaneFortyfive for example, which almost entirely hand makes its garments, or Community Clothing which only produces in the UK in factories that are operating below capacity.

The Question Of Fit

How clothes fit is highly subjective: one man's ' cropped ' is another man's 'too short'. And for some, the question of whether unisex clothing works boils down to whether it fits them or not.

For Marcus Jaye, founder of style blog The Chic Geek, "Fit in clothing is important and men's and women's bodies are different. It's not unisex if it doesn't fit me, and often it's cut too small to get your shoulders in or just doesn't translate into the full range of sizes.

"It works for more shapeless things like sweatshirts, and as we're moving away from skinny fits unisex styles will work better. Clothes are all about proportions and finding a one-size-fits-all style is difficult".

Ullac

Perhaps a 'one-size-fits-all' style isn't realistic after all, especially when it comes to trousers. Shirts and jackets can be made fairly easily for everyone, yet anatomical differences in men and women's bodies make trousers a harder prospect.

Saxena at LaneFortyfive has a solution. "We make the tops (shirts/overshirts/jackets/coats) with the same cut irrespective of the gender. But for bottoms, we do adjust the cut to fit certain body types for comfort and practicality. The idea is not to force all body shapes and types into one single fit to prove a point. The idea is that everyone can wear every piece of clothing that we make irrespective of gender and that the silhouette that comes out at the end is uniform."

The Key Brands For Unisex Fashion

JW Anderson

Since it was founded ten years ago, JW Anderson has been blurring the lines between traditionally masculine and feminine clothing. Although the London-based brand produces dedicated men's and women's clothing, the designer encourages clients to shop both - its garments tend to be flat-fitting and wear well on a wide range of body shapes.

Rad Hourani

Nobody describes Rad Hourani's clothes better than Mr Hourani himself: "They are genderless, ageless and limitless. They come from no nations, no race, no religion, yet they could be at home anywhere, anytime." Designs range from minimalist rain macs to unisex wrap skirts in muted colourways of black, navy and grey.

Cos

While not strictly a unisex brand, Cos is well known for its boxy silhouettes and versatile designs. What's more, it recently launched its Soma collection - a lineup of contemporary pieces including a /3/4 length belted coat suitable for all body types.

Community Clothing

Founded by Patrick Grant - of E Tautz and Norton & Sons fame - Community Clothing is your new destination for quality basics. All made in UK factories, expect interchangeable wardrobe pieces that won't break the bank: sweatshirts, raincoats and selvedge denim are all available.

LaneFortyfive

A brand passionate about producing ungendered clothing, LaneFortyfive takes inspiration from classic workwear garments - think chore jackets and wide-legged trousers - and renders them in beautiful fabrics such as corduroy and pure linen. Oh, and nearly everything is made by hand in London.

Our Verdict

Unisex clothing isn't going anywhere. This is a good thing. For too long mainstream fashion has pushed only men's and women's collections which, in today's landscape, is a notion that simply doesn't fit.

No, it's not likely to ever entirely replace the traditional fashion formula, but the increasing number of unisex options available is a step towards inclusivity in an industry that's notorious for the opposite. As consumers, we should always welcome choice.

Can it work in terms of fit? In the direction fashion is currently moving - that is, looser cuts and oversized styles - unisex clothing makes more sense than ever.

It's true that certain trouser styles are difficult to offer as a unisex garment, but trousers are notoriously hard to buy anyway, and we'd recommend getting alterations done at your local tailor regardless of where you get them.

Still not sold? Well, you don't really have to be. The rise in mainstream unisex collections has helped further the dialogue of gender and identity in society today and honestly, that's more important than clothes anyway.

Lacoste SS19

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Does The World Really Need Unisex Fashion?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Not every fashion trend is worth paying attention to. Indeed, most are fleeting moments that generate little momentum before fizzling out, making room for the next batch. Some, however, are genuinely interesting, and have the potential to change the way we dress forever.

# data[].attributes.body
Living for the moment, Aspirant Tribes know the look, music and lifestyle they want – and will spend big in order to get it! It’s about keeping up with what’s cool but without all the hard work of creating it themselves. Social butterflies,

they are spending summer holidays hitting the UK festivals to Croatia’s Outlook. Whether it’s the latest pop-up, concept store, art gallery or nightclub, they want to be the one to have seen it first - and post it on social media. Brands trying to crack the Aspirants need to work hard to prove their cool credentials. although appealing to them may be challenging, those who do are rewarded with sur- prising brand loyalty.

# data[].attributes.body
https://www.asos.com/women/fashion-feed/2018_10_17-wed/collusion-is-here/

# data[].attributes.body
Dyneema Fabric: said to be the strongest, most durable fibre in the world, at 15 times stronger than steel. Dyneema and ultra-light nylon Tela works well.
Super-strong fibres: from Dyneema and Spectra Shield to aramids Kevlar, Twaron, Nomex and Technora to nylon- based Cordura, these fibres deliver military-grade strength and resistance.

# data[].attributes.body
Vollebak's Indestructible Puffer combines strength and reaction by adapting to temperature variations.
Details: Opt for recycled polyester insulation as a sustainable and vegan choice, combining different-shaped fibres that work across resilience, warmth and volume.

# data[].attributes.headline
WGSN Buyers' Briefing A/W 21/22 Menswear Key Details

# data[].attributes.subject
WGSN Buyers' Briefing A/W 21/22 Menswear Key Details

# data[].attributes.body
Key Detail 1: MODULAR DESIGN (Modular 12% UK, 15% US mix) Clothing with removable pockets, zip-off hems and three- in-one construction all offer countless options as to how to wear a single garment.
(modular details are expanding into bottoms (+25% UK YoY, contributing to 7% of new styles), driven by the luxury segment)
Key Detail 2: QUILTED INSULATION (Quilted/padded 27% UK, 18% US mix) Streetwear collections reimagine quilting in saturated colours not only for tops but for bottoms as well

# data[].attributes.body
Key Trend Inspiration:

Page 10: "Off-Piste" Performance ski and snow wear will migrate from the slope to city, recast as aspirational urban sportswear, prized for both its functionality and style

Page 12: "Snowpocalypse" Concerns around climate change and extreme weather conditions will inspire technical snow and ski styles with a futuristic post-apocalyptic aesthetic

# data[].attributes.body
Due to COVID19 I was not able to take part in a physical compshop which was frustrating so I had to do the best I could online. Before undertaking my comp shop, I planned out what I wanted to achieve from the comp shop and what to look out for which was the prices, overall look of the website and fabrics. The comp shop was done to get an understanding of similar competition and what they are doing in online stores currently. I made sure to look at ASOS's Collusion range and do some research on the as a big part of the advertising to that specific range is that it's unisex which would be a big competitor for my unisex range. I found out they had a good range of fashionable items at a cheap price a lot of which were sold out. When doing a comparative shop at Supreme a good competitor for Bape I noticed a lot of the high quality exclusive items were sold at a relatively respectable price but almost all items were sold out which was expected as its a desirable limited brand. I want to channel both these high street and high end brands into my collaboration and take inspiration from both.

# data[].attributes.headline
ASSORTMENT MIX FROM EDITED: URBAN OUTFITTERS

# data[].attributes.subject
ASSORTMENT MIX FROM EDITED: URBAN OUTFITTERS

# data[].attributes.body
Tops is the highest category for Urban Outfitters at 70% so I'm making sure to reflect this in my range and incude a high percentage of tops

# data[].attributes.body
Tops is the highest category for Bape which is the same as Urban Outfitters so again this will be relfected in my range and the second highest is Outerwear which is going to also be a big category in my collection

# data[].attributes.body
My action plan developed over time, I was able to complete the majority of tasks on track even though I fell behind slightly during christmas so didn't start the majority of the project until january which meant I was constantly developing my planning ahead.

# data[].attributes.body
I kept track throughout the project when I completed all the tasks, when I researched content and accessed the research. This helped me throughout the project understanding what I needed to do and to stay on track. All research and content dated

# data[].attributes.body
The planned turnover for this range is £1,078,992 over 8 weeks across 1 Flag- ship store on Oxford Street and online. I predict the range to sell out quickly. The average profit margin is 77.0% and most garments that account for this are Trend (38%) and Fashion price pieces (42%) with an average price of £150. The section with the most number of garments are Outerwear (51%) and Tops (25%). This is a small collection which focuses on quality.

# data[].attributes.headline
WGSN Insight: Gen Z: Female Style Tribes

# data[].attributes.subject
WGSN Insight: Gen Z: Female Style Tribes

# data[].attributes.body
This WGSN article gave me a good understanding of female Gen Z consumers especially ones within the streetwear community which is my consumer it was good to compare the male and female Gen Z streetwear shoppers as my customer profile is going to be males and females

# data[].attributes.headline
WGSN Insight: Gen Z: Male Streetwear Profiles

# data[].attributes.subject
WGSN Insight: Gen Z: Male Streetwear Profiles

# data[].attributes.body
This article by WGSN gave me a really good insight into my customer profile I figured out my consumer is a "Hypeducator" in the streetwear community.

# data[].attributes.body
Gen Z doesn’t think of luxury as a name brand that they want to slap onto their bag or their shirt and wear as a badge. They’re really looking for unique items that set them apart.

Gen Z is looking more for this item that shows that they’re different, they’re unique. And if they find it from a luxury brand, then they’re absolutely willing to pay for it.

There is an authentic spirit to Gen Z individuals where I think they just really want to know and understand who they’re buying from. I would describe them as tremendously discerning and disciplined.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of shopping

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
As Gen Z and millennials accumulate more spending power, retailers will need to understand what motivates their shopping behavior and what makes them unique to build successful strategies.

# data[].attributes.body
77% of Millennials and Gen Z use their phones to browse fashion and 68% use them to buy fashion.

Sustainability: “Environmental sustainability is important to these shoppers (Millennials & Gen Z). More than three-quarters (76.7%) say it is either very or quite important."

# data[].attributes.body
Utility styling is key for A/W 21/22

# data[].attributes.body
Google searches for "tracksuit for men" +70% YoY globally
The go-to style of lockdown prompted designers and brands to reassess a key item that was waining along with streetwear trends. - I definately want to include these within my range as they are a stape fro AW21 especially with loungewear rapidly being on the rise due to the pandemic

# data[].attributes.body
3M Colour dusting is something I want to include in my range it's perfect for streetwear clothing to give a futuristic modern feel to a garment and the colour dusting makes each item unique in different lights

# data[].attributes.body
The Edited statistics show Urban Outfitters colours there was a high percentage of products in black and blue. I made sure to include blue as a big part of my range.

# data[].attributes.body
Atlantic Blue makes for a strong colour pop against more subdued greys and neutrals, but it also works in tonal palettes

A/W 21/22's Atlantic Blue will add an alternative medium blue derived from the natural world.

Mid-blue apparel at trend-led retail +30% UK, +23% US YoY

# data[].attributes.body
WGSN online retail data: the uptick of off-white tones is driven by premium (+59% UK, +49% US YoY) and trend-led retailers (+53% UK, +57% US YoY)

# data[].attributes.body
Midnight Brown is re-emerging via modern takes on 1960s, '70s and '90s looks. This is coming through strongly from the youth market as they explore thrifted looks and rental platforms.

Darker tone browns rise by 117% YoY – one of the fastest growing colours across the S/S 21 catwalks.

# data[].attributes.headline
Average Pricing for A Bathing Ape from Edited.com

# data[].attributes.subject
Average Pricing for A Bathing Ape from Edited.com

# data[].attributes.body
This gives me a good understanding at where I should be pricing my items especially due to my range being a collaboration with Urban Outfitters I need to find a middle ground to put my prices at

# data[].attributes.headline
Average Pricing for Urban Outfitters from Edited.com

# data[].attributes.subject
Average Pricing for Urban Outfitters from Edited.com

# data[].attributes.headline
EDITED Pricing Figures for Urban Outfitters & Bape

# data[].attributes.subject
EDITED Pricing Figures for Urban Outfitters & Bape

# data[].attributes.body
Using the Edited website this shows the average price for womenswear and menswear full price, over the past month (new stock). Using figures and information to determine price points for stock as well as the architecture in which the stock sits.

# data[].attributes.body
The majority of logistic and critical path decisions were guided by sourcing lessons which were informative in terms of lead times and predictive time for transportation

# data[].attributes.body
From primary research at the beginning of the project it was clear a lot of brands product is being sourced from China. With my brand collaboration being with Bape they are a Japanese Streetwear brand so they source the majority of their stock from China and Japan so I kow I need to source the majority of my items from China as they will already have a strong relationship built up to obtain high quality items at a good price

# data[].attributes.body
I want do create a luxury shopping bag for the collaboration so I will take inspiration from the A Bathing Ape's bag below and combine the Urban Outfitters logo onto it so when a customer is walking down the street they will notice and create more attention for the range

# data[].attributes.headline
Connected Consumer: Multichannel Insight Report 2018

# data[].attributes.subject
Connected Consumer: Multichannel Insight Report 2018

# data[].attributes.body
"Younger shoppers aged between 18 and 24 prefered Instagram: 52% said it had inspired them (outfit buys), compared with 30% for Facebook. Consumers over 25 reported a preference for Facebook." 52.8% don't use social media for shopping.

# data[].attributes.body
I will be adding removeable pockets  to a puffer jacket to create a modular design.

"Modular details are expanding into bottoms (+25% UK YoY, contributing to 7% of new styles), driven by the luxury segment"

# data[].attributes.body
There was no catwalks analytics for A/W21 due to COVID so I've taken data off of trend forecasts on WGSN.com

# data[].attributes.body
My range is a collection of 26 items accross 4 cat- egories. The total plan to buy is £1,358,200 and the total buy at cost is £293,853 with a planned turnover of £1,078,992. This will all be sold at RPR and none will go into POS

The highest planned sales units are Tops (25%) with the rest of the mix being fairly equal but Outerwear is the highest at 51%

The range is 20% core, 42% fashion and 38% trend this is because Bape is a trendy streetwear brand so I had to include more trend driven pieces and less core in this range

# data[].attributes.body
Bapes clothing sizes start from a S-3XL. Because my range is unisex I'm going to make a wider range of sizes starting from an XXS-XXL so there will be a size for all genders making it easier to cater for both

# data[].attributes.body
Bape stock a wide range of items I will be keeping this range limited for a one off collaborative release I will be doing Sweats, Coats, T-shirts, Accessories and Sneakers

# data[].attributes.body
I will only be stocking the range in the London Oxford Circus Flagship store for a limited release

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
INDIVIDUAL NEGOTIATED PROJECT BY POPPY DOYLE

# data[].attributes.body
I have really enjoyed this project and creating a collaborative range for Urban Outfitters and Bape, it’s allowed me to be creative and gain more of an understanding on how the buying and merchandising roles work. Overall, I am happy with the outcome of my range and the overall project and I believe I made a successful collection for Urban Outfitters which expresses both brands well as a collaborative range. I have considered all aspects of making this collection a success by making sure I include what the consumer wants and being very social media based when it comes to the marketing strategy as the target market for this range is Gen Z. I was happy with my collection and feel each item was wearable and went with each other, something I would do differently if I did it again would be to think more about sus- tainability as this is becoming an important factor when it comes to Gen Z shoppers. Overall I am really happy with the collaborative collection I have created. The past six months has taught me in depth about the buying and merchandising job role I hope to be going into and all in aspects you need to consider when creating a range like this.