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Expected outcomes of the Padlet
You will begin your Research Padlet by adding the following:
1. A list of 20 questions (minimum) that will act as potential starting points and/or areas of
research to unpack your identified subject area.
2. 15 contextual references (minimum) for your subject matter with captions. Please choose
a variety of references and sources. No more than 5 art and design references. The other
10 may reference socio-culture, history, science...... Each reference must include a short
caption to explain how this reference will inform your project and what you hope to gain
from looking at this source.
3. A list of 5 relevant places to visit (minimum). Each place must include a short caption to
explain how the visit will inform your project. Places to visit can include galleries or specific
exhibitions, but may also be public/private spaces, buildings, specific environments

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What are the key take aways / points of development from each project.

Silhouette

The underwire and boning.

Caricature

The Draped Dress - with more fluid material for a feminine silhouette - on the bias or not.

Question of Worth

Translucencies

I Love it When a Plan Comes Together

Socks

Working out how to join complicated garments together and different types of seams. Manufacturing.

Creating a garment that revolves 360 degrees and incorporates movement.

Pattern

What is the relationship between negative space in architecture, and void space in a garment?

Museums

Bringing personal sensitivities and sensibilities into a garment. Bringing a personal sentiment.

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A 300 word piece of reflective writing discussing one of the assessment criteria
(Investigation, Experimentation, Evaluation & Review, Realisation, Communication and Self
Directed Practice) you wish to develop the most during the FMP and why? Please
reference previous specialism work as context.
2. A 300 word reflection summarising how and why your chosen subject area has evolved
through this research task and what the subject area you wish take forward into FMP is

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FMP - Making An Evening Dress, for my brother's eventual film premiere. 

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FMP - Making An Evening Dress, for my brother's eventual film premiere. 

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I discovered the romance and drama in a ball gown. I recognised that it was a fashion designers signature. Nevertheless, I have realized through all the other projects that I take a collaged approach to designing, and was formerly interested in sports wear.

The main focus of this evening dress will be able to accentuate the 360 revolve.

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10 Underappreciated American Noirs of the Late 1950s and the 1960s ‹ CrimeReads

Neo-noir | 1960s: Days of Rage

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'We still need to be seen': behind the rise of black punk culture | Punk | The Guardian

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The forgotten story of Pure Hell, America’s first black punk band

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The four-piece lived with the New York Dolls and played with Sid Vicious, but they’ve been largely written out of cultural history

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Gender Gender Women'swear / Men's wear.

A '60s Fashion History Lesson: Mini Skirts, Mods, and The Birth of Boho | Vogue

Style icons – The Clash | Lineage of influence

Edwardian Fashions of My Fair Lady - Eliza's Closet

History of Fashion: Edwardian Era in the Early 1900s - Luxtailor

Women’s Trench Coats | Burberry®️ Official

2022 International Woolmark Prize, FKA twigs and Isamu Noguchi

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A 1960s Fashion History Lesson: Mini Skirts, Mods, and The Birth of Boho

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They said the 1960s swung and indeed it did—especially when it comes to fashion.

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1980s Exhibition at Tate Britain (if still on).

Black Cultural Archives,

Fashion and Textiles Museum

East London

Museum of the Home

Knatchbull (The Deck London) | Savile Row's Only Women's Shopfront

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Knatchbull (The Deck London) | Savile Row's Only Women's Shopfront

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Discover Knatchbull - Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring, Exclusively For Women. Experience made-to-measure women's tailoring. Elevate your wardrobe with Knatchbull - where conscious luxury meets timeless style on Savile Row.

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NOVA TWINS - OFFICIAL WEBSITE

The Mangrove Nine

Music | Delilah Holliday

Skinny Girl Diet - Wikipedia

Claire Barrow | Grailed

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Marianne Joan Elliott-Said (3 July 1957 - 25 April 2011), known by the stage name Poly Styrene, was an English musician, singer-songwriter, and frontwoman for the punk rock band X-Ray Spex.

Poly Styrene was born Marianne Joan Elliott-Said in 1957 in Bromley, Kent, and brought up in Brixton, London. Her mother, who raised her alone, was a Scottish-Irish legal secretary. Her father was a Somali-born dock worker, although Poly Styrene used to tell the press that he was a dispossessed Somali aristocrat.

As a teenager, Styrene was a hippie. When she was 15 she ran away from home with £3 in her pocket, and hitchhiked from one music festival to another, staying at hippie crash pads. Thinking of this as a challenge to survive, her adventure ended when she stepped on a rusty nail while bathing in a stream and had to be treated for sepsis.

Having been 'an itinerant traveller, alternative fashion designer and a failed pop-reggae singer', she saw Sex Pistols perform at the Pier Pavilion in Hastings on her nineteenth birthday, 3 July 1976, and decided to form the punk band X-Ray Spex.

Styrene recorded her first demo album in 1975, when she was 18 years old. Her manager enlisted Ted Bunting to produce the record.

In 1976, Styrene released her first single under her real name, Mari Elliott. Titled "Silly Billy", it was a reggae track, with some touches of the then popular ska style. Her daughter Celeste has called it 'similar to Althea and Donna, who she really liked'. She co-wrote the B-side "What a Way" with the record's producer, Falcon Stuart. The single came in a GTO Records sleeve.

After watching a very early gig by the Sex Pistols in an empty hall on Hastings Pier, playing a set of cover songs, she was inspired to put an ad in the music papers for 'young punx who want to stick it together' to form a band. From this, she became the singer with X-Ray Spex, Poly Styrene, a name she chose from the 'Yellow Pages' when she was 'looking for a name of the time, something plastic.' She was described by as the "archetype for the modern-day feminist punk"; because she wore dental braces, rebelled against the archetypal female sex object of the 1970s, sported a gaudy Dayglo wardrobe, and was of mixed race. She was "one of the least conventional frontpersons in rock history, male or female". They launched their debut single in 1977.

In 1978, after a gig in Doncaster, South Yorkshire, Styrene had a vision of a pink light in the sky and felt objects crackling when she touched them. Thinking she was hallucinating, her mother took her to the hospital where Marianne was misdiagnosed with schizophrenia, sectioned, and told she would never work again. She was diagnosed with bipolar disorder in 1991.

After the original line-up of X-Ray Spex broke up in 1979, Poly Styrene recorded a solo album, Translucence, in 1980. The album abandoned X-Ray Spex's loud guitar work for a quieter and more jazzy sound that has since been described as foreshadowing later work by Everything but the Girl. In 1986, she released the EP God's & Godesses [] on the Awesome record label. A New Age solo album, Flower Aeroplane, followed in 2004.

She described herself as "an observer, not a suffering artist writing from tortured experiences. I was playing with words and ideas. Having a laugh about everything, sending it up."

In 2007, Styrene was invited to the Concrete Jungle festival in Camber Sands, by her friend Goldblade's John Robb where she and the gathering's organiser, Symond Lawes, agreed to initiate a 30-year celebration of X-Ray Spex's debut album, Germfree Adolescents. They decided to hold a live show at the Camden Roundhouse, which was a sell-out event on 6 September 2008. A live album/DVD of this event, Live @ The Roundhouse London 2008, was released in November 2009 on the Year Zero label by Future Noise Music.

She made a guest appearance at the 2008 30th anniversary concert of Rock Against Racism in Victoria Park, London, performing " Oh Bondage Up Yours!" with guest musicians Drew McConnell (of Babyshambles and Helsinki) and 'Flash' David Wright playing saxophone. That same year, she dueted with Goldblade's John Robb on a remix of Goldblade's "City of Christmas Ghosts".

In March 2009, Styrene joined other members of PRS for Music in criticising Google for allegedly not paying a fair share of royalties to musicians. This followed Google's removal of millions of videos from YouTube because of a royalties dispute with the organisation.

NME.com announced on 29 October 2010 that Poly Styrene was to release a solo album titled Generation Indigo, produced by Martin Glover (aka Youth from Killing Joke), in March 2011. She released a free download of "Black Christmas" in November 2010. Inspired by a Los Angeles killing spree of a man dressed as Santa Claus, "Black Christmas" was written in collaboration with her daughter, Celeste.

Styrene announced "Virtual Boyfriend" as the first single from the new album Generation Indigo via Spinner Music, as well as the launch of her new website. "Virtual Boyfriend" was released on 21 March 2011, and featured an animated promotional video directed by Ben Wheele. Generation Indigo was released on 28 March 2011, via Future Noise Music. The album received critical acclaim, including a perfect 10 out of 10 score in magazine, and 8 out of 10 in The Daily Telegraph newspaper. Generation Indigo was also chosen as Album of the Day on UK radio station BBC 6 Music.[citation needed ] It was released in the US on 24 April 2011, the day before her death.

"Ghoulish" was the first posthumous single to be released from Generation Indigo, and was backed by a remix from Hercules and Love Affair.

magazine's music journalist Nitsuh Abebe described her singing style with X-Ray Spex as "a bold, keening yelp" and "fierce but fiercely feminine."

The band U2 paid tribute to Styrene during the "HerStory" video tribute to notable women in 2017 for the 30th anniversary of The Joshua Tree during a performance of "Ultraviolet (Light My Way)" from the band's 1991 album Achtung Baby. In 2023, Rolling Stone ranked Poly Styrene at number 195 on its list of the 200 Greatest Singers of All Time.

In 1983, Styrene was initiated into the Hare Krishna movement and recorded at their recording studios while living as a devotee at Bhaktivedanta Manor. She lived as a Hare Krishna convert in Hertfordshire and London from 1983 to 1988. Styrene was a vegetarian.

In 1995, Styrene's solo work was put on hold when she suffered a fractured pelvis after being knocked down by a fire engine.

In March 2009, Styrene took part in the inaugural Instigate Debate night. The night's theme was modern day consumerism. Other current issues were also discussed.

She had a daughter, Celeste Bell-Dos Santos, and lived alone in St Leonards, East Sussex.

In February 2011, in an interview published in The Sunday Times magazine, which largely focused on her past and present relationship with her daughter, Celeste, Styrene revealed that she had been treated for breast cancer, and that it had spread to her spine and lungs. She died of metastatic breast cancer on 25 April 2011, at the age of 53.

Author Zoë Howe and Styrene's daughter, Celeste Bell, co-authored a biography of Styrene that was published in November 2018. The book, titled Day Glo: The Poly Styrene Story, was published in the United States in September 2019.

In 2021, Styrene was the subject of a documentary, Poly Styrene: I Am a Cliché, that was initially crowd-funded until the project got some investment from Sky Arts. Like the biography, the documentary was co-written by Howe and Bell, with Celeste Bell also directing with Paul Sng and providing the narration with Ruth Negga. The documentary coincided with the 40th anniversary of the release of the first X-Ray Spex album, Germfree Adolescents. "This film will be a celebration of the life and work of my mother, an artist who deserves to be recognised as one of the greatest frontwomen of all time; a little girl with a big voice whose words are more relevant than ever" Bell said. The world premiere of I Am a Cliché took place online on 27 February 2021, with the film being released on digital formats on 5 March 2021 and broadcast by Sky Arts on 6 March 2021.

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Marianne Joan Elliott-Said (3 July 1957 - 25 April 2011), known by the stage name Poly Styrene, was an English musician, singer-songwriter, and frontwoman for the punk rock band X-Ray Spex. Poly Styrene was born Marianne Joan Elliott-Said in 1957 in Bromley, Kent, and brought up in Brixton, London.

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1) Why does Scarlett need to wear a dress on the red carpet.

2) What is Neo/60s fashion?

3) How can the suit be feminised into a dress?

4) How much of her body does she need to reveal?

5) What part of the film or element of her character can be brought to the fore in the dress?

6) Like Zendaya dressed in fashion inspired by tennis, for the press tour of Challengers, how can the sordid nature of 60s Britain be captured in a garment for the 'press tour' of Pinball?

7) How can 'Windrush' Fashion be integrated in UK shapes?

8) How can 1960s Brick Social Architecture inspire a womenswear garment?

9) Where else could Scarlett go in this outfit?

10) How will the garment lean heavily on the hair and make up design?

11) To what extent will this garment bridge costume and functional wear?

12) What are the colour pallet for this garment given that most photos from that era were black&white?

13) How will Scarlett's personality influence the dress?

14) What is Scarlett's relationship to the subject matter I am interested in?

15) How can the mixture that is British Identity be captured in a garment?

16) How wearable and flexible will this garment be?

17) What techniques are required to make it?

18) Who do I need to reach out to, in aid of researching my topic?

19) What is Scarlett's favourite colour and material textures?

20) How can I keep a good relationship with the client?

19)

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Evaluation definition: the process of judging or calculating the quality, importance, amount, or value of something.

Review definition: assess (something) formally with the intention of instituting change if necessary. (Oxford English Dictionary)

The main intention for this project is to design something that has enough challenge to last the duration of the project. In all previous projects there has been a linear trajectory between drawing, isolated testing, and making, with little time or emphasis on revision. The majority of the projects have been completed to a wearable standard, meaning they can be inhabited, however they cannot be worn outside and for long periods of time. The challenge is therefore, to practice making, and have a regular feedback between wearer and technique. Can the required movements be achieved with this process of adhesion or joinery? This means that every meeting you can review how the conversation went, and review the choices and decisions made by you and the client.

There is also the self-evaluation required to set a standard for your project and make sure everything is up to that standard. This is the process of reviewing and evaluating your work to see if any corners are cut, and if so can any easy changes be made to improve upon something. This process has occurred between ‘Museum’s project and ‘Technicians’, where as I was working with gifted sewers, I had to up my standards, so the project didn’t look incoherent and lack cohesion.

In ‘A Question of Worth’ project, I had to keep pushing the quality of my concept, as I had to make the textile development more and more rigorous. The textile had to resemble more of an artefact in an of itself, to command the viewers interest, and therefore reveal many levels and intrigue at different points. This mean that things had to be revealed and obscured on different measures.

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In the FMP there is an opportunity to do something personal as you are setting the brief yourself.

Pinball is a film made by my brother and his friends. I have had discussion with him about the project and resonate with the story and the setting. My father acted in this project. My family are very passionate about film. I have always been interested in the world building that occurs when creating a motion picture, and I find scenography fascinating. I used to enjoy watching bonus features that detailed how the film was made, including the props, and the manufacturing processes needed. I have watched films across many time periods, and enjoy being inspired by older movies, to preserve their longevity in the history of film, and to appreciate, the alternative technologies used in making the films, that are antiquated today. I have also had a long interest in Brixton and its political potency in London. Having lived nearby for a year, I have seen the town throughout all the seasons.

The themes of the film itself are ‘Identity and style’, ‘Past presence’, ‘Individuality & romance.’ ‘Chance & coincidence.’, ‘Obsession and desire’ and Time Dilation. These are fascinating topics that have huge openings for fashion. I believe the most important theme I want to map onto my interest in ‘Black Punk’, which I believe is at the core of my conceptual response to the film, is ‘Individuality and Romance’. I believe Black Punk will drive this, due to the context of Brixton being home to many of the Windrush Generation in the 50s and 60s, and the influx of foreigners shaping the area’s culture. Secondly, the film is defiant and ‘naughty’ in tone, and I also believe this is synonymous with the punk attitude. The actor that I am designing for is Caucasian, however she is from London, and I believe can adopt and share in the rich tapestry made up by interwoven narratives created by movement in the Capital.

Secondly, an important date in the Fashion Calendar is the Met Gala. The theme this year develops on from an exhibition opening in spring – by the Costume Institute. “The Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition will present a cultural and historical examination of the Black dandy, from the figure’s emergence in Enlightenment Europe during the 18th century to today’s incarnations in cities around the world… Dandyism was initially imposed on Black men in 18th-century Europe as the Atlantic slave trade and an emerging culture of consumerism created a trend of fashionably dressed, or dandified, servants. Dandyism offered Black people an opportunity to use clothing, gesture, irony, and wit to transform their given identities and imagine new ways of embodying political and social possibilities.” The suits worn by the Teddy Boys in the film Pinball also reference these qualities, but for White Working Class men as well. My grandfather came over to London as a British Jamaican migrant, with a background in tailoring, therefore I have a familial connection with this topic and the suits he made were even worn in the film by his son.

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Superfine: Tailoring Black Style - The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Pinball is the film.

1960s.

Brixton.

MET Gala Black Tailoring Theme May 2025.

Contemporary.

Audio References

Guns of Brixton by The Clash, 1979

Johnny Remember Me by John Leyton, 1959