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“The rental process is incdredibly straightforward”(Klerk, 2022).

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“The rental process is incdredibly straightforward”(Klerk, 2022).

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Not sure about renting clothes? Here's a beginner's guide to making the most of the process

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There is absolutely no doubt that rental fashion is on the rise. As we all become painfully more aware of the impact that the production of clothing is having on our planet, many of us are trying to shop less, buy better and, on some occasions, turn to rental, rather than always buying something new.

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“The circular economy is the only future for fashion and HURR is paving the way”, (Prew, 2021)

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“The circular economy is the only future for fashion and HURR is paving the way”, (Prew, 2021)

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Back in 2017, CEO Victoria Prew was struck by a home truth: fast fashion has created a demand for "newness" that has no place in a sustainable future. Something had to be done to remedy the bad habits of the industry.

A solution? Renting not buying. Getting women to rent instead, meant they could still get their kicks from the latest luxury trends and pieces, without burning a hole in their pocket or the planet.

From visiting lenders' homes with camera in hand, to a desk at Google's Startups Campus, to a pop-up in Selfridges, Victoria took an idea and made it a movement. is now a tech-first platform with thousands of renters and lenders building a smart solution for fashion.

Our community of like-minded, entrepreneurial women are sharing more than just their wardrobes. They're doing good by looking good.

in the press

"The Airbnb Of Fashion"

forbes

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HURR is the fashion marketplace changing the way we wear. Everything you need to know about us, from fashion rental to our team.

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THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS RESPONSIBLE FOR 20% OF GLOBAL WASTE WATER

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THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS RESPONSIBLE FOR 20% OF GLOBAL WASTE WATER

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- 3% of global CO2 emissions are due to the fashion industry.

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1.92 MILLION TONNES OF TEXTILE WASTE PER YEAR. 

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1.92 MILLION TONNES OF TEXTILE WASTE PER YEAR. 

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the equivalent of a rubbish truck full of clothes ends up on landfill sites every-second.

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The extremely -detrimental impact of fast fashion waste on the environment is no news. Besides being responsible for nearly 10% of global carbon emissions, the industry is also infamously known for the amount of resources it wastes and the millions of clothes ending up in landfills every day. Here are 10 highly concerning statistics about textile waste.
10 Statistics About Fast Fashion Waste

1. 92 million tonnes of textiles waste is produced every year

Of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tonnes end up in landfills. To put things in perspective, this means that the equivalent of a rubbish truck full of clothes ends up on landfill sites every second . If the trend continues, the number of fast fashion waste is expected to soar up to 134 million tonnes a year by the end of the decade.

2. The apparel industry's global emissions will increase by 50% by 2030

If a business-as-usual scenario prevails in the coming years - meaning that no action is taken to reduce fast fashion waste - the industry's global emissions will likely double by the end of the decade.

3. The average US consumer throws away 81.5lbs of clothes every year

In America alone, an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste - equivalent to 85% of all textiles - end up in landfills on a yearly basis. That's equivalent to approximately (37 kilograms) per person per year and around 2,150 pieces per second countrywide.

4. The number of times a garment is worn has declined by around 36% in 15 years

The throwaway culture has worsen progressively over the years. At present, many items are worn only seven to ten times before being tossed. That's a decline of more than 35% in just 15 years.

5. The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global waste water

Dyeing and finishing - the processes by which colour and other chemicals are applied to fabrics - are responsible for 3% of global CO2 emissions as well as over 20% of global water pollution. Along with yarn preparation and fibre production, these two processes have the highest impacts on resource depletion , due to the energy-intensive processes based on fossil fuel energy.

6. It takes 20,000 litres of water to produce one kilogram of cotton

Besides being a huge source of water pollution, fast fashion also contributes to massive quantities of water being wasted every day. If this is difficult to picture, just think that about 2,700 litres of water are needed to make just one t-shirt, which would be enough for one person to drink for 900 days. Moreover, a single load of washing uses between 50 and 60 litres of water.
You might also like: Is Hong Kong's Avant-Garde Textile Recycling Facility a Real Solution to Fast Fashion Problems?
7. $500 billion is lost each year because of under-wearing and failure to recycle clothes

The worst aspect of our reckless thrown-away culture is that the vast majority of clothes being tossed each year is not recycled. Globally, just 12% of the material used for clothing ends up being recycled. Much of the problem comes down to the materials our clothes are made from and inadequate technologies to recycle them. "The fabrics we drape over our bodies are complex combinations of fibres, fixtures and accessories. They are made from problematic blends of natural yarns, man-made filaments, plastics and metals."

8. Nearly 10% of microplastics dispersed in the ocean each year come from textiles

Garments are a huge source of microplastics because so many are now made of nylon or polyester, both durable and cheap. Each wash and dry cycle, especially the latter, sheds microfilaments that move through our sewage systems and end up in waterways. It is estimated that half a million tons of these contaminants reach the ocean each year. That's the equivalent to the plastic pollution of more than 50 billion bottles.

9. 2.6 million tonnes of returned clothes ended up in landfills in 2020 in the US alone

Most of the items returned to retailers from consumers end up in landfill. This is mainly because it costs more to the company to put them back in circulation than to get rid of them. Reverse logistics company Optoro also estimates that in the same year, 16 million tonnes of CO2 emissions were created by online returns in the US in 2020 - the equivalent to the emissions of 3.5 million cars on the road for a year.

10. Fast fashion brands are producing twice the amount of clothes today than in 2000

This dramatic increase in production has also caused an increase in both pre- and post-production textile waste . Due to the number of cut outs for the clothing, a large number of materials get wasted as they cannot be used any further, with one study estimating that 15% of fabric used in garment manufacturing is wasted. Post-production, 60% of approximately 150 million garments produced globally in 2012 were discarded just a few years after production.

What Can I Do?

1. On A Personal Level

Ways to approach climate action within our personal lives (hint - it evolves personal action but is not focused on small behavioural changes, which whilst worthwhile will not get us there):

Joining a community can be one of the best ways to increase your impact.

First, it can enable you to make hundreds of connections in one go.

Second, a group of people working together can have more impact than individuals. If you are not already, take action by becoming an to support our mission to encourage a billion climate activists.

If you're a younger read ask your parents to take action by bringing your whole family on board as a Family Member.

Reflect on the concept of Effective Altruism , a project that aims to find the best ways to help others, and put them into practice.

Ways to approach climate action within the workplace:

Maintain your career path but consider donating a portion of your income to organisations that are focused on achieving meaningful & impactful goals and call out your boss if the company or organisation you work for does not have clear policies that will result in reduced harm to the environment and a pathway to Net Zero.

Ask your boss to support EO by bringing the whole team onboard with EO company membership - and take action together.

Reconsider your career path, with excellent advice .

Research for this article was conducted by Earth.Org research contributor Chloe Lam You might also like: Fast Fashion and Its Environmental Impact
3. On A Political Level

Ways to approach climate action as a voter or political actor (even if you can't vote):

Protest - make your feelings known - become a vocal and passionate advocate with friends and family (without being over pushy) of the need for climate action. We need a billion activists to turn this ship around.

Join organisations that are organising climate actions and protests locally, whether in your city, district, or even at school.

Vote (if you can) for politicians who will champion effective climate action by governments.

Vote for parties or organisations that espouse self-reform and the adoption of ' Ministers of the Future ' into government.

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10 Concerning Fast Fashion Waste Statistics | Earth.Org

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Besides being responsible for nearly 10% of global carbon emissions, the fashion industry is also infamously known for the amount of resources it wastes and the trash it produces. Here are 10 highly concerning statistics about fast fashion waste.

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https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2022/dec/22/more-sustainable-wear-something-new-every-weekend-how-rental-fashion-became-big-business

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‘It’s more sustainable – and I still get to wear something new every weekend’: how rental fashion became big business

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Once the preserve of A-listers going to award shows, high street brands are now making hiring clothes more affordable. But can renting really cure our addiction to throwaway fashion – and is it as good for the environment as many claim?

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Revenue of the rental apparel market worldwide from 2019 to 2026

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Revenue of the rental apparel market worldwide from 2019 to 2026

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"The sharing economy is a non-traditional economy in which assets are owned and shared amongst a network, unlike traditional businesses which have one owner. Companies such as Uber and Airbnb are arguably the most well known within the sharing economy, however, many industries are slowly embracing this new, non-traditional form of business. The apparel industry is no different. Rented apparel is one such example, and represents a sharing economy business model in the apparel industry. While consumers become more environmentally and financially conscious, the fashion and apparel industry will continue to adapt to this change.", (SMITH, 2022)

https://www.statista.com/statistics/1195613/rental-apparel-market-revenue-worldwide/

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"owning clothes is so last year", (Conlon, 2020).

-Eshita Kabra-Davies founded the rental platform By Rotation.
- Newell, founder of My Wardrobe HQ, said that she saw a 50% increase in stock listed by brands and private lenders when the UK went into Lockdown.

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Cast your mind back to this time last year, pre-pandemic, when a £39.99 polka-dot dress from Zara was the only viral fashion phenomenon getting all the headlines. In retrospect, it's fair to say that its arrival, and swift departure from the shop floor, was probably when must-have-but-will-probably-wear-once culture reached its divisive peak; lauded by fast fashion conglomerates, lambasted by the eco-conscious.

Was it really necessary for everyone to own the same dress, asked the critics. What pleasure lies in wearing exactly the same thing as at least three other women in the office? Why don't people just buy it and, you know, share it?

Step forward, fashion rental companies. Having already been widely adopted in the US, thanks to the pioneering platform Rent the Runway, until early last year renting clothes was a concept mainly reserved for special occasions here in the UK. Yet several style and tech-savvy entrepreneurs who had spotted its potential and brought it to UK shores were starting to gain traction.

It wasn't long before magazine editors began to hail rental as a refreshingly guilt-free model, thanks to its sustainable credentials, and users were signing up to lend and rent in droves. Then, Covid-19 struck.

As the retail industry reeled from profits taking a heavy blow, high-street stalwarts fell into administration and celebrated high-fashion houses shuttered, it would be logical to expect the burgeoning fashion rental sector to take a nose-dive, too. After all, with social engagements cancelled indefinitely and a new era of suspicion when it came to sharing and touching common surfaces, who would want to lend and rent clothes to strangers? It turns out, lots of people.

Eshita Kabra-Davies founded the rental platform By Rotation, which launched in October 2019 and quickly became a favourite thanks to its roster of cult brands and influencer-approved items. She says the number of users on her app has grown from 12,000 to 25,000 since 23 March 2020, the day the UK went into lockdown, while the number of items listed by lenders grew by 120%.

Something borrowed: By Rotations's Eshita Kabra-Davies. Photograph: Rosaline Shahnavaz/The Observer

Sacha Newall, CEO and co-founder of the UK's first fashion rental marketplace, My Wardrobe HQ, which she launched with Tina Lake in 2018, says she saw a 50% increase in stock listed by brands and private lenders. As the summer grew to a close, Selfridges launched its Project Earth initiative, which included its own rental service in collaboration with the platform Hurr, founded by Victoria Prew. Selfridges' executive buying and merchandising director, Sebastian Manes, said the service is "feel-good fashion suited to our customers' mood right now".

How these companies function is as simple as it sounds. By Rotation, for example, is a peer-to-peer service, so private lenders and renters manage the process themselves, either posting or meeting up to exchange items, and taking care of the cleaning (under brand guidelines) with no interference - unless there's a problem - from the business. A kind of Airbnb, but for clothes. My Wardrobe HQ, meanwhile, holds items it authenticates from independent sellers and unsold stock from brands, and looks after the couriers and cleaning. They make their money from taking a percentage of the rental fee.

How much you pay (or receive) depends on what the lender asks for; how long you can keep it varies (most have a minimum of four days); and there is no statute on how old or new each piece is, it just has to be in really good nick. Other popular rental sites that have risen to prominence recently - including OnLoan, Endless Wardrobe, the Devout and Rotaro - use similar models, or an increasingly popular subscription service which sees customers pay a fixed amount for anywhere from two pieces a month.

The main difference between this new-wave of fashion rental and its old reputation for fancy dress is that these are items to wear every day; pieces that scratch that itch for something new without claiming precious space and hard-earned cash, or giving in to fast fashion. Through a post-Covid lens, it's easy to see why it's capturing the zeitgeist.

"Rental is picking up because people are really concerned about their pay packet but still want something new and nice to wear without the financial risk," says Newall, whose re-sale integration also allows a renter to buy a piece for a fraction of the original retail price if they happen to fall in love with it.

As well as the financial implication, periods of lockdown have paved the way for a more Marie Kondo-approved style of living, says Kabra-Davies: "A lot of people have noticed how small their space is and how much stuff they've amassed, and realised they don't need that much."

On a larger scale, people have had time to reflect. "We've become more aware how fast-fashion is produced," she says, citing recent investigations into how brands treat their garment workers. "I think people have had time to read a lot and they've realised there's something wrong with the way that they are consuming. They're beginning to look for ways they can replace fast fashion."

Ironically, Newall says, it was the arrival of fast fashion that originally displaced fashion rental from the high-street so it will be familiar to some, but "for the younger generation, the idea of access over ownership is something they fully embrace."

What's mine is yours: Sacha Newall and Tina Lake of My Wardrobe HQ. Photograph: Rosaline Shahnavaz/The Observer

Both Newall and Kabra-Davies credit the "eat out to help out" scheme for giving their businesses a boost in August. "It suddenly gave people a licence to have a bit of fun again and indulge themselves in a way they maybe hadn't done with Covid," says Jane Shepherdson, chair of My Wardrobe HQ and the woman responsible for Topshop and Whistles' success in the 2000 and 2010s. "Without knowing what you're going to be able to go do [Post-Covid], rather than buy something and potentially only wear it once, rental gives the opportunity to wear something for one night."

Often, that will be something you might not have been able to afford: a Chanel quilted handbag to spruce up your back-to-work look (retail price £3,000; yours for £18 a day); a Valentino blouse for your next Zoom meeting (£1,590 to buy; £26 a day to rent); or a bright red Ganni jumper for drinks (£280, or £8).

"I love the accessibility and democratisation of it," says Shepherdson, who says she would never have bought the "full-on embroidered Gucci suit" she recently rented. (Said suit retails at £2,100, but rents at £34 a day.) Kabra-Davies extols the lender benefits, too. "Users who have been renters become lenders, because they think: 'Why don't I make £50 for a weekend of renting something I won't even be using?'"

The environmental benefits of a circular rental model - compared to wear-once consumption - are, of course, the driving factor behind many brands chasing the rental market. According to Greenpeace, global production of clothing has doubled in the past 15 years, contributing to the £140m worth of clothing which is sent to landfill every year in the UK alone.

There are of course concerns about contributing to carbon emissions through more frequent cleaning and transportation, yet in most cases theses are minimal, offset or in the process of being improved. The majority of platforms, including My Wardrobe HQ, use recycled packaging, green couriers and ozone cleaning, a process that eliminates bacteria and viruses (popular right now for obvious reasons).

Meanwhile, the peer-to-peer services encourage their users to exchange in person where possible, and to care for items using eco-friendly methods (although By Rotation issued guidelines and encouraged people not to meet during the height of the pandemic).

A frequently raised issue for the rental fashion industry is that it negates the "buy less, buy better" mantra adopted by sustainable fashion advocates, which encourages consumers to make long-term investments in their clothes. Kabra Davies - like her counterparts - promotes a capsule wardrobe made up of quality pieces which can be regularly reinvented with rental.

"People have said we should be trying to not want those things, but that's just an impossible thing to do," adds Shepherdson. "You can't tell people not to want something, but you can find a way to allow people to have that feeling responsibly."

Rather than deny the innate human desire for newness, which we associate with pleasure and reward, fashion rental can give us the dopamine release we need - maybe more so during tough times - says Carolyn Mair, behavioural psychologist and author of The Psychology of Fashion. "We get used to things that give us pleasure quickly but the strength of the initial pleasure depletes over time," she explains. "Fashion thrives on our need for novelty and so renting - and other options that allow us to have 'new to us' - satisfies so many of our current needs."

Fashion rental relies on changing perceptions around sharing and second-hand goods - and renegotiating the concept of "new".

"If you think about it, nothing is 'new' in fashion," says Therese Bassler of Style Coach, who encourages her clients to use rental services when appropriate. "It's just presented in a different way at a different time... newness is the perception of the individual."

The increased appetite for individual expression in lieu of following trends also plays into rental fashion's hands. "On the high-street, [brands] are selling a lot of the stock they never sold last year this year, which shows you things aren't really changing," Shepherdson says.

Bay Garnett, the stylist and Oxfam ambassador who brought a thrift market to Selfridges as a part of the charity's "Second Hand September" programme, notes the shift in consumer attitudes, too. "Who's going to listen to anyone saying, 'You should be wearing this? This endless train of stuff, this relentless marketing to make us think we all want and need [things]. People don't want to do it any more. It's like being force-fed something."

As someone at the forefront of retail for more than two decades, Shepherdson sees an exciting future for rental fashion. "We're seeing a lot more brands who want to come and trade with us directly as they know the narrative is changing," she says, noting that it was already tough for brands to turn a profit with 100% footfall, let alone reduced by 60% now.

"It makes perfect sense that a designer would design purely for rental," she says. "When they're wholesaling, they're selling for something like 30% of the retail price, whereas if they rented something only four or five times they'd make the same amount of money. There is definitely a shift happening."

Newall agrees: "It's interesting that people understand the message that it's not only good for the environment, but good for them personally. That's when you start to see real change."

What a difference a year makes.

Ready to rent? Five more rental fixes for fashion-savvy men and women

Rotaro Founded by former trend-forecaster Georgie Hyatt and her partner Charlie Knowles, Rotaro offers fashion-forward cult labels such as Rotate Birger Christensen, Ganni and Rejina Pyo. TheyIt offers in a range of more than 200 pieces from £15 for a four-day loan, as well as a service to choose two dresses and return the one you don't wear. It uses sustainable processes where possible, from its biodegradable packaging to eco-friendly laundering and repair. rotaro.co.uk

Endless Wardrobe Rather than sourcing from elsewhere, Endless Wardrobe owns all of its stock, so there are many sizes of the same item. Including brands like Alexa Chung, De La Vali and Essentiel Antwerp, it's the go-to party dress service and is great for a holiday wardrobe. Prices include delivery, dry-cleaning and damages, and if you love an item you've rented, you can ask to buy it at 80% of the RRP. From £19, endlesswardrobe.com

The Devout Many services specialise in occasionwear; the Devout offers a great selection of everyday essentials, loungewear and workwear for men and women. A subscription service allows customers to choose five pieces for £79 a month, and once the clothes can no longer be rented they'll be added to an outlet sale. Any unsold items will be passed to Shelter, which supports people struggling with homelessness. thedevout.com

OnloanTamsin Chislett and Natalie Hasseck created Onloan in 2018 to 'reignite a love of clothes without the guilt' so fashion can be 'truly enjoyed, not consumed' and women can dress for who they are 'that day, that month, or even that moment', in labels like Shrimps and Baum and Pferdgarten. Memberships can be paused or cancelled any time. From £69 a month,

Moss Bros Dating back to 1897, Moss Bros is an old hand at the rental game and has perfected the process of suit hire: book an appointment and an expert will help you choose, and give styling advice, from how to tie a cravat to whether to wear oxfords or brogues. From £49.95, mossbroshire.co.uk Peter Bevan

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Owning clothes is so last year. Rental platforms have been the industry's 2020 success story

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- fashion rentals give opportunities to brands to put up items for rental and sale, focusing on up cycling and extended a products life cycle.

(Botha, Visan, 2021)

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Added: Sep 22, 2021

Last edited: Sep 29, 2021

My Wardrobe HQ is the first fashion rental marketplace in the UK, stocking luxury womenswear fashion items. The platform gives the opportunity to brands and individuals to put items up for rental and for sale, being mainly focused on upcycling items through rental but also having the additional feature of offering purchasing opportunities for second hand designer items. Having both the rental and purchasing options, the platform allows consumers to try items before buying, hence ensuring minimal waste is produced within the fashion market.

The luxury fashion industry is facing two major environmental impact challenges, the first one is ensuring the preservation or natural resources which are used in production. As high-end fashion is based on raw and unique materials, securing a supply of these materials that give brands a competitive advantage is a key aspect in the success luxury firms have seen throughout history. As restoring and regenerating limited natural resources exploited by these brands, the high-quality natural materials might become more and more expensive and less accessible to the public. The second major challenge of luxury fashion brands is linked to the first one, as companies must invest and identify new types of sustainable natural resources or create substitutes for current raw materials through production and design innovation. The process of harvesting such new solutions might also negatively impact the environment, high fashion brands being focused on material resistance and appearance rather than sustainability and item circularity.

Moreover, in the past 15 years, global clothing production has doubled to meet demand of the public and this increased appetite has seen the clothing and footwear industries account for a combined estimate of 8% of the world's greenhouse gas emissions, making fashion the third highest polluting industry in the world. The value of unused clothing in wardrobes has been estimated at around £30 billion. It is also estimated that £140 million worth of clothing goes into landfill each year. A 2016 McKinsey report discovered that three-fifths of all clothing items are incinerated or end up in landfill within a year of being produced.

High fashion rental is a solution which maintains the rare natural materials in use whilst enabling a higher number of people to make use out of the lifespan of a high-end product. Re-using the limited raw materials by enabling customers to have access to an item for a limited period of time ensures that luxury goods enter into a circular economic model. My Wardrobe HQ requires its users to register either as customers or suppliers before renting or buying any items. The company's model which enables a customer to rent a clothing item between 4 and 14 days whilst having the facility or purchasing, allows people to try on items before committing to a purchase, ensuring a conscious purchase and so fighting against fast fashion models. The company also ensures that the rented items are being maintained at the highest standards to promote their dry cleaning, ironing and repairing the worn items.

My Wardrobe HQ is driven by sustainability, the ethos of the company being to give a new life to pre-owned and past-season luxury goods through introducing them into circular economy.

The company states that:

They can extend the life cycle of a garment by up to fifteen times.

They can offer an additional way for brands and retailers to sell through pieces that either didn't make it into production, or didn't sell through at the end of each season.

They can encourage customers to buy better, buy less: through education, consumers will discover that better quality items are often made with more stringent processes that don't - or have less of - an impact on the environment

They plant a tree for every rental and sale places on My Wardrobe HQ, so every transaction has its carbon off-set.

They will lessen the pressure on virgin resources, and tackle the growing problem of waste management.

The company is committed to becoming fully sustainable, hence the rental options are being taken care of through their partnership with other brands:

Blanc Living dry cleaners uses only non-toxic, biodegradable detergents and pure water.

Green Couriers the UK's leading environmentally-friendly courier company and delivers parcels on a fleet of modern vehicles that run on engines in order to protect the environment.

By extending the life cycle of one person's clothes by just nine months, the environmental impact can be reduced as much as 30 percent.

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My Wardrobe HQ: UK's first fashion rental marketplace | Knowledge Hub | Circle Lab

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My Wardrobe HQ is the first fashion rental marketplace in the UK, stocking luxury womenswear fashion items. The platform gives the opportunity to brands and individuals to put items up for rental and for sale, being mainly focused on upcycling items through rental but also having the additional f...

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In-store items available to buy, instead of renting, at a lower retail price.

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Jewellery, new season, available to rent in-store and online.

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Poll results as a infographic for the magazine article.

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Why haven’t you tried Fashion rental services ?

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Poll results in the format of an infographic

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Would you prefer to wear a high end brand, or a high street brand? 2

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Turning into an infographic for the magazine article*

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Although some people wouldn't rent, it is interesting to see that they can still see the attraction to the services available.

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Ecological views, Gen-Z, Fashion renting.

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Ecological views, Gen-Z, Fashion renting.

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Reason's as to why Gen-Z wouldn't rent clothing

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Reason's as to why Gen-Z wouldn't rent clothing

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Reason's as to why Gen-Z aren't attracted to renting apparel.

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Reason's as to why Gen-Z aren't attracted to renting apparel.

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The majority of participants are attracted to the idea of renting fashion, however it is interesting to see why they are not.

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Shows that Gen Z ARE aware of fashion renting.

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Instagram allows you to connect with individuals from different locations, of different age groups. This gives us different viewpoints and thoughts around Fashion Rental services.

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- aesthteically pleasing
-clean hygiene
- a lot of space

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'Thanks its rented'

- HURR's catchy and memorable slogan
- Can be used as magazine AD slogan, or as my callout.
-Image can be used within the magazine

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Barbie inspired rental rail. HURR selfridges. 

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Instore visit images can be used for graphics and adverts within our magazine.

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In store visits inside HURR’s physical sales point, Selfridges, London.

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How Much Do Our Wardrobes Cost to the Environment?

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“Injecting newness into your wardrobe, without making a long term investment” (saunter,2019)

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How much did you pay for the clothes in your closet? If you have the receipts, you can calculate this. However, there is a cost behind each dress, pair of jeans, shirt, and sock that goes unnoticed by most people: the cost to the environment.

According to figures from the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), it takes 3,781 liters of water to make a pair of jeans, from the production of the cotton to the delivery of the final product to the store. That equates to the emission of around 33.4 kilograms of carbon equivalent.

If that is for just one pair of jeans, imagine the environmental cost for everything in our wardrobes. The following statistics, published by the UNEP and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, give us an idea:

Every year the fashion industry uses 93 billion cubic meters of water - enough to meet the consumption needs of five million people.

Around 20 % of wastewater worldwide comes from fabric dyeing and treatment.

Of the total fiber input used for clothing, 87 % is incinerated or disposed of in a landfill.

The fashion industry is responsible for 10 % of annual global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. At this pace, the fashion industry's greenhouse gas emissions will surge more than 50 % by 2030.

If demographic and lifestyle patterns continue as they are now, global consumption of apparel will rise from 62 million metric tons in 2019 to 102 million tons in 10 years.

Every year a half a million tons of plastic microfibers are dumped into the ocean, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles. The danger? Microfibers cannot be extracted from the water and they can spread throughout the food chain.

Fast fashion
The fashion industry's operating model is exacerbating the problem by stepping up the pace of design and production. Collection launches are no longer seasonal; the replacement of clothing inventories has become much more frequent.

Many low-cost clothing stores offer new designs every week. In 2000, 50 billion new garments were made; nearly 20 years later, that figure has doubled, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. The dizzying pace of apparel manufacturing has also accelerated consumption: the average person today buys 60 % more clothing than in 2000, the data show. And not only do they buy more, they also discard more as a result.

Less than 1 % of used clothing is recycled into new garments. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimates that every year some USD 500 billion in value is lost due to clothing that is barely worn, not donated, recycled, or ends up in a landfill.
The industry should reinvent itself
The fashion industry is key for economic development: it is valued at some USD 2.4 billion globally and directly employees 75 million people throughout its value chain. It is the world's third-largest manufacturing sector after the automobile and technology industries.

This makes it a challenge for clothing makers to grow without being an enemy of the environment, to become allies of the climate while also promoting better conditions for workers in the sector.

In 2017, the Boston Consulting Group took the pulse of the fashion industry. With a score of just 32 over 100, the management consulting firm found that the industry is slow to improve its sustainability. Some mid-sized and large companies have made strides, but half of the market has done little to become more sustainable in production. The study found that most fashion executives had not made environmental and social factors a part of the guiding principles of their corporate strategies.

Foundations like Ellen MacArthur and initiatives such as the recently formed UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, in which the World Bank's Connect4Climate program and other organizations participate, are calling for a new textile economy. The goal is to explore the use of new materials to make clothing more durable so it can be resold or recycled into other products, helping to reduce pollution.

Some leading brands have answered this call and are working to identify fiber alternatives and develop more eco-friendly processes.

Technology and research are playing a key role in making the industry more sustainable. Athletic shoes and attire are getting made out of materials extracted from the plastic dumped into the ocean. Fish skins and natural dyes are replacing chemicals, fruit skins are substituting furs, and backpacks and purses are getting made out of discarded canvas. Some companies have a return policy so they can recycle the consumers' garments after they have worn out.

In Latin America, the industry's transition to a sustainable model is gaining momentum. Designers are exploring possibilities to use the region's biodiversity in marketing sustainable brands. Events are being organized and alliances formed to promote the purchase of eco-friendly clothing and accessories. Initiatives such as Hilo Sagrado and Evea, which received World Bank support through competitions organized by the Young Americas Business Trust, are working on this.

While a lot still needs to be done, it is encouraging that some companies are becoming involved when a decade ago there was little talk of sustainable fashion.

To make the garment industry more sustainable, all actors must get involved, from designers to manufacturers, critics, and consumers.

Without consumers making a change, the efforts are in vain. They must become aware of what they buy. How? Taking these small steps can help:

Before buying, ask if the manufacturers used sustainable criteria to make the clothing.

Be creative in combining garments and recycle them after they wear out.

Repair clothing.

Donate what you no longer use.

Buy only what you need. In some countries, 40 % of purchased clothing is never used.

Consider quality over quantity. Every additional year a garment is worn means less pollution. Cheap clothing often doesn't survive the wash cycle, meaning that in the long run you don't save money compared with buying better quality garments?

Buy second-hand clothing.

Be a smart laundry manager - wash full loads and use non-abrasive detergents, for example.

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How Much Do Our Wardrobes Cost to the Environment?

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El sector de la indumentaria es uno de los más contaminantes. Marcas y consumidores comienzan a sumarse al llamado para hacer una industria más sostenible

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Knowing this will help us decide what type of layout we would choose

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Finding this out can impact the layout and visuals of the magazine. The digital copy would include videos etc. and the hard copy would include more images and illustrations.

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To ensure we are reaching the right demographic when asking questions

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Instagram poll targeting Gen Z on Madison's Instagram, (Osborn, 2023). These results will be mentioned within Freya Davenport's introduction and my section of the group presentation.

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"Young consumers are settling into a future where renting isn't just a short-term measure, but likely how they will live for the rest of their lives", (Saggese, 2023).

- Gen Z are welcoming the idea of co-owning assets, especially luxury goods, to lower costs while limiting overconsumption.

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"YOU'LL OWN NOTHING, AND BE HAPPY." (WEF, 2017)

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"YOU'LL OWN NOTHING, AND BE HAPPY." (WEF, 2017)

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The World Economic Forum states individuals will no longer own anything by 2030. Retailers should be thinking about this as a reality and consider launching rental subscriptions to appeal to a mass-consumer market.

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-A new rental platform
- Rather than approaching with sustainability, the brand targets "social-media fuelled" Gen Z, who have desire to always have new clothing
- FashionPass sends users a certain number of items for a flat monthly fee, regardless of their individual retail price.
- One of the major aims of the platform is to prevent young people looking to grow their social media but without getting into debt.
- Owner Brittany Johnson quotes :I believe instagram is driving the rental economy".

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- a new site targeting UK Gen Zers
- At up to 75% below retail, Charlottes Closet covers party, prom, wedding guest, dresses and formal wear.
- dRESSES ARRIVE THE WEEK OF THE EVENT AND CAN BE KEPT FOR FIVE DAYS.

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Gen-Z targetted rental strategies are a great opportunity for brands to connect with a consumer that is interested in 1. sustainability, and 2. Trend-led individuals.

Renting is relevant to Gen Z, "who have less disposable income than older cohorts".

https://www.wgsn.com/insight/article/84271#page_6

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Rental app and store HURR have partnered with eco-friendly dry-cleaners BLANC, which offer special rates to renters.

Users are able to donate their 'un-rented' clothes to Traid if they don't meet Hurr's £150 price point and are put back into circulation.

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https://www.wgsn.com/insight/article/84271

- Sustainability is embedded into the circular economy itself, rental platforms are experimenting with eco-friendly initiatives to double-down on their mission to help save the planet.
- Rental services must ensure they are washing responsibly in order to extend a products life-cycle and ensure they're reducing water waste.

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- consumers increasingly lean into more conscious shopping habits.
- Consumer investment and sharing economy has taken hold in the hotel, property, entertainment and automotive industries- and house now dived into the fashion world.
- Paying smaller amounts to borrow items appeals to conscious shoppers, particularly Gen Z-ers who want to "inject newness and trends into their wardrobes without making a long-term investment", (saunter, 2019).
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The rented apparel market is estimated to "increase by 3 billion dollars from 2021-2026", (Zitter, 2023).

-https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/report-clothing-rental-market-to-grow-by-3-billion-dollars-from-2021-to-2026/2023031468450

- the growing e-commerce market in fashion, as well as consumers preference to shop online, promotes such rental services.

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Technology research and advisory company Technavio released a report on the growth of the clothing rental market, pointing out its estimated increase by 3 billion dollars from 2021 to 2026 and highlighting key findings on this development.

Vendors have latched onto experiential marketing as a beneficial tool, actively involving the consumer in their strategies, such as live marketing, participation marketing, and loyalty and event marketing, which seem to generate more purchases for online (sale and rental) fashion platforms according to the report. A big key factor in the rising numbers are in this context Millenials and their engagement.

A crucial obstacle slowing down the rental market's growth will be accurate and timely inventory management. Logistic systems will need to be able to keep up with high demand and returned items. Not to forget the element of checking garments for damages upon return in order for the customer to be traced back and held accountable. A record of SKUs for clothes of different categories, such as new, old, damaged and ready for laundry items, needs to be set up.

The market has been split up into the two categories - end-users and geography - by Technavio and further segmented into women, men and children and APAC, North America, Middle East and Africa, Europe and South America.

The report explains that the women's segment will contribute significantly to the market's growth. This is on the one hand due to the fact that women prefer to select outfits depending on the occasion. However, as this specific wear is within a higher price range, they prefer to rent selected items instead. On the other hand, the number of bought products being returned by women has risen as stated by a number of branded clothing retailers.

Last but not least, a growing amount of working women are boosting the demand for online luxury apparel which is connected to their busy lifestyle and their preference to shop digitally.

Geography-wise, it is worth mentioning APAC's input to the market's growth, which is expected to contribute to 44 percent of it during the forecast period, rising faster than in other regions. This is attributed to the strong interest in affordable fashion and a wide range of available products.

The selection of global and regional vendors offering rental options, results in an overall scattered market at present. Examples of prominent brands are Urban Outfitters, TheDressBank, Wrapd, and Girl Meets Dress, among others.

A promoting factor is the growing e-commerce market in the fashion industry and consumer's preference to shop online due to broader product selection and convenient delivery options. Rental services are currently offered by both existing brands as well as startups.

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Report: Clothing rental market to grow by 3 billion dollars from 2021 to 2026

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Technology research and advisory company Technavio released a report on the growth of the clothing rental market, pointing out its estimated increase by

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https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/study-shows-gen-z-willingness-to-rent-clothes/2021081657163

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Study shows Gen Z willingness to rent clothes

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A study by Washington State University has found that Gen Z are willing to use clothing rental services in order to reduce waste. The study, conducted by...

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Product life-cycle and fashion production. 

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Product life-cycle and fashion production. 

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'The average number of times a garment is worn before being disgarded has decreased by 36% as compared to 15 years ago", (WGSN, 2021).

"Clothing production has doubled in the last 15 years with the rise of 'fast fashion'", (Coyle, 2022).
(https://planetradio.co.uk/greatest-hits/uk/news/fast-fashion-facts/#)

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Consumers are warming up to resale and rental sites more this year than last, according to data from our consumer survey platform WGSN Barometer. This preference is not limited to younger generations; while Millennials and Gen X are in the lead (with Gen Z following closely behind), Boomers also note increased affinity YoY (+3%). Find these insights and more in our latest Footwear Buyers’ Debrief

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High-end fashion is based on raw and unique materials, securing a supply of these materials is what drives the success of the luxury fashion market.

The process of making new garments and / or more of the same garments can negatively impact the environment through constant sourcing of materials, as well as this there is more clothing to waste year-on-year.

"Global production of clothing has doubled in the past 15 years", (Greenpeace).

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Fashion rental services began in 2018, launching with the first company: "My wardrobe HQ"

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https://www.cikis.studio/en/article/what-is-fashion-renting-and-what-are-the-benefits-for-companies

"Only 1% of clothing at the end of its life cycle is recycled or reworn into new garments". - https://cosh.eco/en/articles/how-to-recycle-second-hand-clothing#:~:text=In%20reality%2C%20only%201%25%20of,fast%20fashion%20chains%20would%20suggest.

With this, circular business models, such as rental services, are key levers for mitigating the impacts of the fashion industry.

"Fashion renting is a viable solution to facilitate the fashion industry's transition to a circular economy", (Poratelli, 2022).

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The waste of natural resources and the absence of interventions to enhance the production waste typical of the linear economy represent damage to natural ecosystems but also a cost for fashion companies.

Indeed, it must be considered that while clothing production has from 2000 to 2014 and the number of garments purchased per capita has increased by about over the same time period, only of clothing at the end of its life cycle is recycled into new garments, resulting in a sharp and continuous increase in waste disposed of in landfills or incinerated.

Among the best known circular business models are:

Fashion renting, in particular, consists in the rental of clothes or accessories usually of high quality and price.

Since this is a rental, the company providing the garment is responsible for maintaining, inspecting, and sanitizing the product when it is returned and retains possession of it. By shifting the focus from possession to use, the useful life of the product can be significantly extended, avoiding the environmental impacts associated with the creation of a new garment.

The origins and rise of Fashion Renting

However, recently, fashion renting has been developing significantly in the United Kingdom, where consumers have welcomed the possibility of renting clothing or accessories.

The possibility of renting an item of clothing allows consumers to be able to use and try on high fashion products without having to pay an excessively high price. This means that consumers appreciate fashion renting not only from an environmental point of view but also from an economic point of view.

Fashion Renting in Italy

The phenomenon of fashion renting is finally catching on in Italy as well.

This is favored by a particular sensitivity, widespread among Millennials and Generation Z, to make more sustainable consumption choices.

In addition, as already anticipated, fashion renting offers the opportunity to try on different pieces of high-fashion clothing otherwise inaccessible to young people.

Why Fashion Renting is convenient for fashion companies

Fashion renting could be a useful tool for fashion companies to strengthen their competitive advantage in the market.

The implementation of the clothing rental service, in fact, allows companies to stand out from their competitors and to more easily retain their customers.

Large companies are moving in this direction. For example, now has a corner of , a platform specialized in luxury clothing rental, on the second floor of "Annex" in Piazza Duomo in Milan.

Italian fashion companies that have adopted the renting business model

In our country there are both businesses based exclusively on fashion renting, but also cases of famous brands that have dedicated some capsule collections to the rental service.

We analyze some practical cases in the following paragraphs.

Italian business case studies based on Fashion Renting

In Italy there are several realities that have based their business on fashion renting:

; is a reality that allows you to rent high fashion clothes and accessories. Furthermore, you can rent clothes and accessories from iconic as well as emerging brands;

; is a startup that offers a rental service for high fashion dresses, clothes made by emerging designers or vintage clothes. DressYouCan also allows you to rent accessories and shoes. The products can be rented for about 4 days;

: is a platform specialized in wedding dresses rental. In fact, it was born with the aim of allowing all women to try on clothes made by luxury or emerging designers.

Italian business case studies with a collection dedicated to Fashion Renting

Even in Italy there are businesses that have thought of creating an ad hoc collection dedicated to fashion renting.

Among the most important cases is certainly , which has created a totally Made in Italy collection called " " exclusively dedicated to rental. Alessandro Varisco, CEO of Twinset, will speak as a guest at our Fashion Sustainability Academy explaining the origin of the idea of PLEASEDONTBUY and analyzing the critical success factors, the investments made and the economic benefits obtained.

The challenges to face to implement the rental service in the company

In order to ensure that rental actually reduces environmental impact compared to other business models, some factors such as the rate of use of the garments, transport and washing operations need to be considered. These factors represent the main challenge that companies must face to make the clothing rental service sustainable.

Several scenarios for the rental service were analyzed as part of the study. It is clear from the analysis that only the scenario in which the garment (in this case, jeans) is expected to be used 400 times versus 200 times for a garment used by a single person and the consumer's use of environmentally friendly means of transportation to get to the store (e.g., a bicycle), can achieve a Global Warming Potential value comparable to the "Reuse" strategy.

Furthermore, the implementation of circular business models, such as rental, presents several challenges that fashion companies have to face.

In particular, the creation of a new rental service requires the following investments:

Creation of new operational spaces: adoption of ad-hoc physical and digital spaces such as warehouses for clothing and e-commerce;

Dry cleaning and product sanitation services: for the implementation of rental systems it is necessary to invest in cleaning solutions which must be low impact and safe for the environment, in order to be consistent with the business model implemented.

Reverse logistics network: for the implementation of circular business models, and in particular clothing rental service, products need to be kept in circulation and multiple exchanges between the consumer and the company need to be ensured. To this end, it is necessary to implement reverse logistics systems, i.e., a reorganization of supply chains in a way that encourages the reverse flow of products and materials with the aim of offering maintenance, repair, reuse, refurbishment, remanufacturing or recycling services. In addition, companies should invest in environmentally friendly transportation and recycled packaging materials, as well as in organizing local collection and sorting points;

Communication and marketing: to encourage the phenomenon of fashion renting, companies need to make second-hand garments more desirable than new ones. This can be achieved, for example, through convenient and timely delivery of the rental item or personalized stylistic consultancy services. Furthermore, the guarantee of product authenticity is particularly relevant for luxury clothing rental services where it is necessary to capture the consumer's attention and induce him to prefer the rental rather than the purchase of a new product.

The phenomenon of fashion renting is expect to spread ever more rapidly in the fashion sector and represents a Win-Win solution for companies, consumers and the environment.

Companies in the fashion sector, through the implementation of rental services, could improve their competitiveness on the market, build customer loyalty and encourage the transition towards a more circular fashion. It should also be noted that circular business models are an effective tool for adapting to the EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) regime according to which producers are responsible for the environmental impact of waste deriving from the end of life of what they have marketed.

However, companies have to face various challenges to correctly implement circular business models, identifying the appropriate investments to make to define an ad hoc sustainability and communication strategy.

supports companies in overcoming these obstacles and in implementing circular business models capable of improving the environmental and economic sustainability of the company.

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What is Fashion Renting and what are the benefits for companies?

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The phenomenon of fashion renting, or fashion-for-hire, is starting to depopulate throughout Europe, but what are the benefits for companies and under what conditions does it provide environmental benefits?

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Fashion renting is a process where a consumer can pay to wear a garment for a set amount of days, as issued by the lender / business, and return it the day the rental process finishes.