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WAVE:
Wave is generated due to
1. Wind
2. Gravitational forces of sun,moon
3.Catastrophic events like earthquakes
The above factors are without considering earth's rotation.

When we are considering rotation of earth, two factors are present:
1. Pressure Gradient
2. Coriolis Effect

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It gives a description about wind in terms of strength and numbered from 0 to 17.

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There are two types of cyclone
1. Due to temperature gradient i.e.,Tropical cyclone.
2. Due to pressure gardient i.e, Extra tropical cyclone.

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Warm heated oean air raising above the water surface and creating a low pressure region, depicts spiralling of cool air around the circular column of warm air. With continuous displacement of warm air, an increase in influx of cool air occurs causing pressure to drop further and, in this process , spiralling wind system gains strenght.

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GENERATION PROCESS OF EXTRA-TROPICAL CYCLONE:

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GENERATION PROCESS OF EXTRA-TROPICAL CYCLONE:

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There are three stages in the development of a cyclone.
1. Development of an initial disturbance.
2. Development of polar wave front.
3. Development of a fully matured storm.

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A  variety of waves ranging fromripples monster waves are generated and are classified based on their wave period.

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This profile is given by Sheppard, Wind velocities varies from maximum at higher elevations to minimum as it reaches the ocean surface.

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INTERACTION OF WIND WITH OCEAN WATER MASS:

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INTERACTION OF WIND WITH OCEAN WATER MASS:

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ma= Pgf+Grf+Fcf+Ff+Cf
where,
Pgf - force due to pressure gradient
Grf - fprce due to gravitation
Fcf - force due to centrifugal action
Cf - coriolis force
Ff - frictional force which can appear on surface(in the form of shear)

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Storm surge or simoly rise in water level due to storm is caused predominantly by
1. Large pressure variations between the centre of the and its periphery
2. Wind stress directed fromcontinental shelftowards shallow waters.

COMPONENTS OF STORM SURGES:
1. Initial setuo
2. Pressure setup
3. Long wave setup
4. Wave setup
5. Wind stress setup
6. Coriolis setup

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1.Flow is said to be irrotational.
2. Fluid is ideal.
3. Surface tension is neglected.
4. Pressure at the free surface is uniform and constant.
5. The seabed is rigid, horizontal and impermeable.
6.Wave height is small compared to its length.
7. Potential flow theory is applicable.

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Airy wave theory (often referred to as linear wave theory) gives a linearised description of the propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer and the equation is given as:

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The relationship between wavelength, period and water depth is obtained as given below.

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CLASSIFICATION OF OCEAN WAVES ACCORDING TO WATER DEPTH:

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CLASSIFICATION OF OCEAN WAVES ACCORDING TO WATER DEPTH:

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C=L/T
Where, L =length of wave
T = Wave period

CELERITY IN DIFFERENT WATER DEPTH CONDITIONS:
1.  Deep water conditions:
Co =sqrt((gLo)/2*pi))
where, Lo = 1.56T^2

2. Shallow water conditions:
C=sqrt(g*D)

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WATER PARTICLE DISPLACEMENT UNDER PROGRESSIVE WAVES:

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WATER PARTICLE DISPLACEMENT UNDER PROGRESSIVE WAVES:

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The expression for individual and vertical water displacements is obtained as follows

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WATER PARTICLE DISPLACEMENT EQUATION FOR SHALLOW WATER CONDITION:

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WATER PARTICLE DISPLACEMENT EQUATION FOR SHALLOW WATER CONDITION:

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WATER PARTICLE DISPLACEMENT FOR DEEP WATER CONDITIONS:

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WATER PARTICLE DISPLACEMENT FOR DEEP WATER CONDITIONS:

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When waves are in motion, the particles upon completion of each nearly an elliptical or circular motion would have advanced a short distance in the direction of propagation 32 Basics of wave motion.Consequently there is a mass transport in the direction of progress of the wave.

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* Swell waves leaving the generation area propagate along the wind direction and reach coastal waters after travelling thousands of kilometers.
*  Wave height may increase or decrease depending on the configuration of coast and sea bed topography.
* where there is a vertical barrier resulting in
- fanning of wave crest on leeside barrier is called WAVE DIFRACTION.
- Total reflection from barrier is known as WAVE REFLECTION.
- Change in wave alignment of wave crest line as wave advances from deep to shallow is known as WAVE REFRACTION.

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There are four theories in this,
1. Airy's wave theory
C < sqrt(g*d)
2. Stoke's wave theory
C < = sqrt(g*d)
3. Cnoidal wave theory
C >= sqrt(g*d)
4. Solitary wave theory
C = 1.33*sqrt(g*d)

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These are of two types,
1. FUNCTIONAL LOADS  -  Loads due to existence , use and treatment of structure under ideal circumstances for each design condition. Such loads may be constant, static or dynamic.
2. ENVIRONMENTAL LOADS - Loads are due to wind, wave currents , ice etc.

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In this morison equation,
Total force = drag force due to velocity + inertia force due to partical acceleration

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Umax = maximum in-line orbital velocity
U = current velocity
D = cylinder diameter
T = time period

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Morison equation is applicable if during passage of wave, flow seperation occurs and low pressure region develops downstream of the cylinder.
whereas, Froude krylove theory can be applied if flow seperation is not significant , reflection from the cylinder is minimum and diameter of structure is not very small when compared with wavelenght.