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Paul Theroux retraces his 1982 Kingdom By The Sea walk. The entire coast, since then, has been opened for all.

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from Gardens Open for Charity in Cornwall 2026

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Holiday Cottage - Matt Robinson Architecture

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Looking for a wonderful holiday cottage in Cornwall? Caervallack Garden Cottage is an ancient cottage for two people set within a romantic walled garden. Owned and designed by award-winning architect Matt Robinson, its peaceful atmosphere makes for a nurturing and restorative stay. Location The cottage is in the beautiful village of St Martin-in-Meneage, near Helston, […]

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Cliff Bay Hotel - saw this recommended in a paper while doing some pottery

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The Cliff Bay | 5-star hotel in Madeira with sea access

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Visit The Cliff Bay, a 5-star hotel in Madeira with direct access to the sea, views over the sea and Funchal bay, spa and 2 Michelin-starred restaurant.

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Canal boat holidays in Wales on the Llangollen Canal with the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. A wide variety of narrowboat hire on the Welsh Canals.

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Listing of UK Boat Hire Firms - Canal Junction

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Listings of Family run and independent canal boat and narrow boat hire firms throughout England, wales and Scotland.

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Listing of UK Boat Hire Firms - Canal Junction

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Listings of Family run and independent canal boat and narrow boat hire firms throughout England, wales and Scotland.

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Narrowboat for two with wood-burner - Cheviot

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Narrowboat for two with wood-burner - Cheviot

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And you could journey down to Oxford

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Narrowboat Cheviot - Boat for rent in Braunston, Northamptonshire

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Cheviot is one of Union Canal Carriers smallest Barney boats, the quaint interior and compact size makes cheviot perfect for a couples get away.

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Union Canal Carriers | Week or Longer Holidays

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About 60 hours cruising including 142 locks

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Young couple's narrowboat adventure on 45' Foxglove near Milton Keynes

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Young couple's narrowboat adventure on 45' Foxglove near Milton Keynes

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The joys of a narrowboat holiday on the UK canals | Narrowboating for beginners

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Young YouTubers went on Foxglove.

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Listing of UK Boat Hire Firms - Canal Junction

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Listings of Family run and independent canal boat and narrow boat hire firms throughout England, wales and Scotland.

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Very nicely presented boats with wood burners.

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Mini Escape (2 berth) - Boat House in Tring

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Mini Escape (2 berth) Tring United Kingdom, England

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Includes the narrowboat Sally which has a lot of what we're looking for.

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55ft, 2 Berth Canalboat Hire - Weedon, Northamptonshire

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Sally is a 55ft 2 berth narrowboat providing comfortable accommodation for extended cruising, she has a modern smooth and quiet low emission Beta marine engine.

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My First Week Here On My Narrowboat Is Full Of Massive Surprises! #207

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Retirement on a Narrowboat in the UK | Part Year Nomad | Boat Tour

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Sailing Trips - Dutch Tall Ship Oosterschelde

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Sailing in good company on a beautiful ship; sail with us for a unique experience and discover the most remarkable areas all over the world under sail.

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Just off the coast of Devon, surrounded by the clear waters of the Atlantic, Lundy Island is a world apart, a place of contrasts with fantastic coastal scenery.

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Everything about modern and traditional Japan with emphasis on travel and living related information.

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This is a guest post by our friend Amy Cham who compiled us an amazing guide full of her Japan tips to help us plan our trip to Japan.
Ah Japan, irasshaimase! Welcome to the land where everything, just works. The land of convenience, the land of delicious food, paradox, naked strangers, and where respect permeates through every part of society and culture...

In Japan the food can be described as clean and minimalist, but never simple, which probably sums up Japan as a whole. It's a place that both lives up to, and out does, any expectation you have upon arrival.

Uh-huh, they have the fastest, sleekest, most efficient trains (ever!), but they still have paper posters pegged up on their Tokyo subway. Yeah, they have amazing futuristic architecture, but they also have countless traditional wooden buildings in amongst it all.

Yes, they have the busiest people crossing in the world (Shibuya), but at no point is it ever chaotic, no need for anyone to bang on a cab screaming, "Hey, I'm walking here!". Yes, they have scores of scarily trendy, funkily clad young people who like to cosplay on weekends, but they also have evening family outings to sentos.

Here are some tips for planning your trip to Japan.

Contents

No visa requirements for most nationalities for stays of up to 90 days but have a return flight out as they may grill you upon arrival. It was the nicest immigration interrogation we've ever had, though.

Buy your Japanese Rail Pass exchange order (more on that later).

Practice even rudimentary Japanese-numbers are very useful! The Pimsleur Japanese audio course is good for learning the basics.

Get an International Driving Permit. You'll need this for Maricar where you drive a go-kart around the real Tokyo roads dressed as Mario characters. Insanity!

Buy travel insurance. Healthcare is expensive in Japan, so make sure you are covered in case the worst happens. We use and recommend True Traveller (UK/EU residents) and World Nomads (if you're from US/Australia/worldwide).

Make sure your phone is unlocked so you can buy a data SIM card in Japan (we got a Umobile SIM from a vending machine at Tokyo Narita Airport). Having access to maps and Google Translate makes life so much easier.

Back to Contents

Get a Japanese Rail Pass. There's no way around this, it's a bloody fortune (£306/$402 per person for a 2-week pass), but one that more than pays you back. The luxury of shinkansen (bullet train) hopping is exhilarating. No need to book seats in advance, just choose a train, wave your pass and hop on. Be warned, though, decide now whether to get one or not. You can't get these babies inside the country. Yes, that's right. They're magic passes that are only available to foreigners and you need to order online from JRailPass.com. Read our guide to whether a Japan Rail Pass is worth it for everything you need to know.

Bow if you are being bowed to. If you can manage it too, don't turn your back upon exit. Don't overdo it though or you'll be a total gaijin, no need to bow to the supermarket checkout person!

Say "moshi moshi" when you ring someone on the telephone. It's the Japanese version of the Chinese "wai" which all roughly translates as...hello! I don't know why, us Asians just have a separate hello for the phone!

Pre-book accommodation. Wise anyway as the good hostels always get filled up fast (we kept missing out on doubles and had to put up with twin (bunk bed) rooms, but in line with the whole respect thing Japanese people like to be prepared for your arrival. So don't just randomly rock up at a ryokan for the night! Booking.com is our favourite site for finding hotels.

Stay in a ryokan (traditional inn). Outrageously expensive, but worth the experience and the amazing meals that often get included in the room rates. You can cheat like we did and stay in a modern (much cheaper!!) ryokan but it'd be great to experience a more traditional one. Read more about accommodation options in Japan. [Erin: we absolutely loved our ryokan stay at Hotel Musashiya in Hakone where our room and onsen had a view of Lake Ashi.]

Stay in a traditional tatami mat room. If you can't stay in a ryokan, a much cheaper way to stay in one is a traditional room in K's House hostels-they have branches in Hakone (with onsen!), Kyoto, Hiroshima, and all over the country. We never had a bad experience with this hostel chain.

Appreciate the zen-like calm on all modes of transport - no need for quiet only carriages here!

Try to speak as much Japanese as possible. In three weeks I never got beyond pidgin Japanese but still, even equipped with the basics we would go days without needing to use any English. You'll have no choice anyway as not a lot of people speak any English whatsoever, and a lot of transport maps etc are in Japanese only.

See some sumo. If you're lucky enough to be in the country when one of the sumo tournaments is on, go! Admittedly the sport lacks the drama of muay thai, but like Thai kickboxing, it's the pre/ post game rituals that are fascinating to watch. Fairly cheap and easy to score tickets on the day for matches. If you aren't there during a tournament you can see a practice session at a sumo stable.

Get your paper fortune at a Japanese Buddhist temple. Okay, we cheated and got an English one at the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto, but what the hell! You can also get one at the gorgeous Sensoji Temple in Tokyo.

Love the Japanese for their never-ending capacity to help you out, and they won't stop until they do!

Have some sushi... Oh go on...You're in Japan, sushi is the essence of Japan, plus sushi-train/ sushi stand up bars are so much fun watching the chefs take your order, and all shout in unison, "samon!" or "tamago!" etc. (Erin: we aren't going to start eating fish but we did find lots of delicious vegetarian Japanese food).

Appreciate the plastic food models as works of art!

Pack slip-on shoes. You'll be taking your shoes on and off a lot in temples and restaurants. (Erin: I wore my super comfortable Tieks ballet flats most of the time).

Shop at the 100 Yen shops. Like pound shops BUT BETTER!

Get any vouchers going at the hostels you're staying at, every yen counts!

Make use of the many vending machines EVERYWHERE. You will never go thirsty in Japan that's for sure. You can even get hot coffee...in a can! In fact, you can get friggin' anything from vending machines from cheap 100 yen sake (yuk!) to hot chips (not surprisingly we did not try!) and SIM cards. In Tokyo you can use your Suica transport card to pay for it.

Press random buttons on the panel next to you on the loo. It will make you giggle ;o)! Also, if it's cold then appreciate the absolute miracle of heated toilet seats.

Love and appreciate the beautiful presentation of absolutely everything from the amazing architecture to the way bento boxes are wrapped in a napkin tied in a knot just so, to amazing manhole covers!

Track your expenses. Your finances can easily get out of control in Japan so use an app like Trail Wallet to keep track of what you're spending and help you stay on budget. Read more about travel costs in Japan.

Look on Voyagin for interesting tours and activities in Japan, many at discounted rates. The Robot Restaurant is the most insane show we've ever seen (read our Robot Restaurant review for details) and driving a go-kart around Tokyo dressed as Mario characters on the Maricar trip was ridiculously fun!

Withdraw cash from 7-11 ATMs. They are the most reliable no-fee option for international cards and can be found everywhere.
Back to Contents

Eat non-Japanese. We only tried this once in Fukuoka. We had an Indian curry craving, but after that experience we went straight back to Japanese. (Erin: We have eaten some delicious Indian and Italian food in Japan, but I agree that the local cuisine is so incredible that why risk it?)

Be impatient. Things will get sorted for you. The good thing about Japan though is that you probably won't ever find yourself getting impatient anyway, everything, smoooootthhhhh as.

Go whizzing around the country too much. Although I wouldn't change a thing about our three weeks, I wish we had had more time to stay longer in certain places.

Wear holey socks. You'll only be embarrassing yourself when you take your shoes on/ off constantly!

Go into an onsen without washing first, that's just dirty dude! Also, don't go into the bathing area with a towel wrapped around you, you'll just look stupid. Embrace the nudity! Everyone's naked so no-one cares.
Back to Contents
Japan has so much to offer but here are a few places to get you started.

Tokyo - The best of modern Japan. This huge city has incredible food, diverse neighbourhoods, and some crazy experiences. Try these cool things to do in Tokyo and enjoy the best vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo.

Kyoto - The best of traditional Japan with many stunning temples to explore.

Takayama - A smaller, quieter alternative for traditional Japan with a beautiful historic centre of preserved wooden houses.

Hakone - For the chance to see Mount Fuji, mountain scenery, lakes, onsens, and fun transport options (cable cars and pirate ships!).

Nikko - Stunning temples in the forest. Could be visited as a day trip from Tokyo.

Hiroshima - Visit the moving peace memorial that commemorates the atomic bombing.

See our Japan 2 Week Itinerary for a detailed guide to visiting many of these places including things to do, transport, and where to stay and eat.
Are you planning your next travel adventure? See our Travel Resources page for our favourite tools and gear to help you plan the perfect trip. Back to Contents

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This is a guest post by our friend Amy Cham who compiled us an amazing guide full of her Japan tips to help us plan our trip to Japan. Ah Japan, irasshaimase! Welcome to the land where everything, just works.

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Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO)

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Being a vegetarian or vegan in Japan is a challenge, but veggie travelers shouldn't be deterred because there is plenty to keep you well-fed

Japanese cuisine is known for its heavy use of meat and fish, and even stocks and sauces usually have some ingredients containing meat.

Vegetarianism and veganism are not as popular in Japan as it is in the West, so you'll find there's often some confusion as to what you can and can't eat. However, with a little planning, it's possible to navigate Japan and even sample vegetarian or vegan Japanese food, without compromising your diet.

If you're a little adventurous, you may even discover some new ingredients to add to your vegan cooking arsenal when you go back home.

Vegetarian in Japan

Japanese food can be delicious and wholesome for both vegans and vegetarians. Rice and vegan-friendly noodles make up the base of most dishes. Tofu is available in a staggering variety of shapes and textures. Miso, a seasoning made of fermented soybeans and koji (a fungus) is in many dishes. Natto, fermented soybeans, are a staple of the cuisine and fresh or pickled seasonal veggies are easy to find.

However, even when meat or fish isn't immediately evident in a dish, there's often hidden ingredients such as meat or bonito flakes that render a dish vegan unfriendly.

While vegetarianism is gaining momentum, "vegetarian," as an import word, is less definitive and often understood in a broader sense in Japan. Simply requesting vegetarian meals may not be sufficient. Language and cultural barriers can be challenging, but we've put together some tips on ordering veggie to help you enjoy a diet-compliant and culturally exciting trip in Japan.

Veggie bites for intrepid travelers

Zen Buddhism first arrived in Japan in A.D. 538 and prompted Emperor Tenmu to prohibit the killing and eating of meat in A.D. 675. The ban lasted approximately 100 years (though was largely ignored).

Today, vegetarianism in Japan still retains close ties with the Zen Buddhist community. Its cuisine, shojin ryori, is an important part of monks' devotion to a life of abstention from violence against living beings. Shojin ryori is found almost exclusively in Buddhist temples, meaning it's not a feasible option for fueling your entire trip to Japan unless you're staying at shukubo (temple lodgings) the whole time. However, if you get the chance to try shojin ryori, it makes a light, healthy and beautifully photogenic meal, which is a fun cultural experience for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

The elegant and artfully prepared cuisine, served on beautiful plates and dishes of Kamakura lacquerware, tends to be made up of soybean-based foods, such as tofu, along with seasonal vegetables. It is believed to bring balance to mind, body, and spirit. Great care is taken to avoid waste in preparing this cuisine, and even the tops of vegetables are used for stock.

One word of warning; traditionally, shojin ryori is vegan-and even omits pungent flavors like garlic and onion-but the use of dairy is not considered harmful to animals by modern monks, so it is occasionally used. Check ahead to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

Veggie cuisine is gaining momentum in urban Japan

Japanese culture is renowned for subtle attention to detail, dedication, and refinement. Furthermore, options for veggie lifestyles are expanding along with recognition.

Nowadays, many veggie restaurants are displaying an official vegan or vegetarian sticker of approval issued by The Japan Vegan Society or The Japan Vegetarian Association. Registering is a stringent process and therefore stickers of approval are a good indicator that the meals are meat free.

And culinary enthusiasts and chefs are continuously creating and refining new vegan recipes, creamy tofu "cheeses," vegan eggs, vegan meat, and unique ramen alternatives that could fool even the most avid meat-lover. If you are looking for modern or Japanese fusion veggie cuisine, seeking out some of the progressive veggie focused restaurants could be the key to new discoveries.

Check out the dedicated portal sites below to search for vegetarian and vegan restaurants in your destination city or surrounding urban area.

Traveling in rural Japan

When you're outside of major cities, consider staying in a ryokan where they will be able to create spectacular feasts of vegetarian Japanese food if you contact them ahead of time with details of your dietary needs. Some are particularly proud of their vegetarian cuisine, so search online to see which ones specialize.

Konbinis (convenience stores) are a surprising goldmine of veggie snacks, perfect for when you're in a bind. They're cheap, can be found all over the place, and always stock a few things you can eat for some quick sustenance. Onigiri (rice balls) can be found in the fridge sections. Many will be filled with fish, but there are usually some umeboshi (sour pickled plum) and kombu (dried kelp) options. For on-the-go protein, natto (fermented soybean) is available in ready-to-eat packages, but, be warned, the accompanying sauce is often dashi (fish stock).

Packaged beans, edamame, simple garden salads and inarizushi (rice in a tofu pocket) are all options that can help you make a filling meal when other options aren't available. Vegetarians have more options, with cheese strings, quail eggs and lots of pastries to choose from. Consider taking your own soy sauce around with you for a splash of fish-free flavor when only the basics are available.

Tips for ordering veggie & vegan

Vegetarian is an import word and, though widely understood, can be a more flexible in definition than in English.

When ordering, be specific about what you cannot eat. Say no meats, seafoods, or animal products including dashi or stocks.

If the waiter seems unsure, reiterate that no meat also includes chicken, pork, and fish (what may seem like a reluctance to accommodate could simply be a lack of understanding).

Print out a written explanation or card detailing your dietary requirements in Japanese.

Restaurants and izakayas with photo menus can be very helpful. But be sure to check the dashi and base ingredients for fish or animal products.

Notify establishments of dietary requirements in advance when making reservations, particularly if it's a set menu.

Translation apps such as Google Translate can also be a great tool to have on hand.

Kosher and Halal Eating in Japan

How accommodating is Japan toward halal (Islamic) and kosher (Jewish) food?

Awareness and accommodation of Halal and Kosher diets is still far from optimal compared to vegetarianism and veganism. According to the strictest standards, there are almost no restaurants in Japan that specialize in Kosher food. Kosher has various restrictions, such as no pork, shrimp, or crab, no meat, and dairy products, combined with requirements concerning the slaughter process. If you adhere to Kosher diet, be sure to look carefully at the menu list and choose dishes that do not contain prohibited foods when eating out. Kosher Japan is a kosher certification organization in Japan that offers mail order and delivery services of kosher certified foods and operates kosher hotel chains.

The focus toward Muslim-friendly initiatives (halal food promotion), pursued by national and local governments, has an expansion of halal-certified products and halal-compliant restaurants throughout Japan. You can find restaurants with official Halal certificate of recognition issued by the Halal Japan Business Association or Japan Muslim Association.

These are gourmet search site that provides information on halal restaurants throughout Japan.

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A Vegetarian and Vegan Guide to Japan | Guide | Travel Japan (Japan National Tourism Organization)

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Tips on vegetarian and vegan eating for a diet-compliant and culturally exciting trip in Japan. Check out emerging and traditional veggie cuisines.

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Suggested on Maconie and Radcliffe

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Bearded Theory is an award winning family festival in the heart of England. Tickets are on sale now, book yours and join us at Catton Park in May!

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When planning activities the Trustees consider the Charity Commission’s guidance on public benefit and in particular, the specific guidance on charities for the advancement of the arts, culture, heritage or science.

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Where we had PSTT Moroccan-style lunch

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Caravan King’s Cross serves globally inspired dishes all day with fresh Caravan Coffee. Discover our menus, including group bookings and feasting options.

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Caledonian Sleeper Tickets | Sleeper Train to Scotland 2025 | Trainline

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Algarve holidays 2025 | Book with British Airways

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Book your Algarve holiday with low deposit options. Book together and save on our flight and holiday packages. Great deals available with British Airways.

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Austin 7 Around the Americas Book at Bespk

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Here is the story about a dream, a dream that first appeared soon after buying the first of many Austin 7’s in 1966.

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Your search returned 482 cottages.

Heart of the Lakes Cottages

Heart of the Lakes is a friendly local holiday let company based in the heart of the Lake District National Park. Heart of the Lakes joined forces with Lakelovers in 2023 to offer a wide range of cottages, with something to suit all tastes and budgets. Whether you're looking for an apartment, a contemporary holiday home fit with all the mod cons or traditional Cumbrian olde-worlde interiors, you're sure to find it amongst these Heart of the Lakes cottages.

Recommendations for a Heart of the Lakes holiday

With Heart of the Lakes being part of Lakelovers, there's an even wider choice of places to stay in the heart of the Lakes! You're sure to find the perfect holiday to suit your wants and needs. Bring your canine companion to one of these dog friendly cottages, or gather your loved ones together in a large holiday home. If you're looking for something a bit more intimate, these romantic cottages are ideal for two, and these luxury cottages and cottages with hot tubs add an extra special touch!
Fancy a break in the lakes? Secure one of these wonderful self-catering Heart of the Lakes cottages

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Fancy an adventure in the lakes? Browse the wonderful range of Heart of the Lakes cottages available on Lakelovers!

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Think this one featured on that railway documentary

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Book Direct | Luxury Hotel London | Corinthia London | Corinthia

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Book your stay on Corinthia.com to enjoy a host of exclusive benefits, including priority for room upgrades and our best rate guarantee.

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Cilla recommended

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Download our 2023 Lundy stayers timetable

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Lynchetts is a townhouse in the heart of Bradford on Avon, an ancient town within easy reach of Bath. Providing Bed & Breakfast accommodation, we are fortunate in being very close to all the town facilities yet having private, off road parking for guests. Lynchetts has an extensive garden which offers spectacular views across the town. Guests are welcome to use the Georgian summer house at the top of the garden or to play croquet on the lawn.

Lynchetts has an intriguing history. Built in 1785, the house incorporates buildings from the 1600s, creating an unusual mix of beamed, cottage style rooms and Georgian, high ceilinged reception rooms. The house was requisitioned during the Second World War, when it became the temporary home of the famous Harrison Chronometers, which were moved for safekeeping from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich.

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Lynchetts Bed & Breakfast in Bradford-on-Avon

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Lynchetts is a townhouse in the heart of Bradford on Avon, an ancient town within easy reach of Bath. Providing Bed & Breakfast accommodation, we are fortunate in being very close to all the town facilities yet having private, off road parking for guests. Lynchetts has an extensive garden which offers spectacular views across the town.

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Bring your caravan, motorhome or camping gear to our Crystal Palace Club Campsite. Perfect for those looking to explore London - book online today.

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Baltic Wharf is a Club Campsite in Bristol that welcomes both caravans and motorhomes. Enjoy a site open all year to both members and non-members.

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VisitTheUSA is the USA official guide for traveling the United States of America. Discover here all the information you need for your American holidays.

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Strawberry Hot Springs in the Rockies mixes very hot natural spring water with ice-cold runoff from melted snow. There are a number of pools at different temperatures, including (for the brave) an all-cold pool. The rustic design is very peaceful and attracts locals and tourists. One local said: "After dark you can tell who's from out of town because they're the ones wearing swimsuits!"* Adult from $15, child (3-17, daylight hours only) from $8, strawberryhotsprings.comFlabberghast

Strawberry Hot Springs in the Rockies mixes very hot natural spring water with ice-cold runoff from melted snow. There are a number of pools at different temperatures, including (for the brave) an all-cold pool. The rustic design is very peaceful and attracts locals and tourists. One local said: "After dark you can tell who's from out of town because they're the ones wearing swimsuits!"
* Adult from $15, child (3-17, daylight hours only) from $8, strawberryhotsprings.com
Flabberghast

Run away to Glenwood Springs

The relaxing hot springs of Glenwood Springs, between Aspen and Vail, make a perfect getaway. Nearby, the Hanging Lake Trail ascends more than a mile and hugs a rushing river. At the top is a pristine lake with trout and a lovely waterfall. It's definitely worth the hike.
* visitglenwood.com
psduff

Ballooning, Steamboat Springs

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Photograph: Getty Images

The best way to enjoy the spectacle and variety of Colorado's mountains, valleys and lakes is from a hot air balloon. At Steamboat Springs, northern Colorado, colourful balloon launches begin in the calm early morning hours. As you rise slowly above the misty fields, villages, forests and herds of cattle become visible, the Yampa river snakes its way through grasslands, and snow-topped peaks stretch to the blue horizon in all directions.
* $245pp for an hour, wildwestballooning.com
gallarate

Ride the Rockies

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Photograph: Alamy

Cycle 400 magnificent miles with locals across the mountain passes of Colorado by taking part in the annual, fully supported Ride the Rockies bicycle tour. Each night you stay in a different mountain town and the organisers come up with routes to ensure that some of the most beautiful reaches of the state are included. This year some 2,000 cyclists crossed the stunning 3,300-metre Red Mountain Pass in the San Juan mountains.
* R egistration details for the June 2018 race tbc, ridetherockies.com
charlibey

Enjoy a 'Cliffnic'

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As a wedding gift, relatives promised us a hotel stay in Estes Park at the gateway to the Rocky Mountains national park, and lunch at a place with "Colorado's best views". Little did we realise it would mean abseiling 100ft down a rock face to eat on a portaledge! From the Stanley hotel, our guides drove us, equipped us and then waited on us, zipping the meal down to our ledge. The views were spectacular and food was delicious. As if our dining experience wasn't scary enough, the Stanley was the inspiration for The Shining, and back in our room the movie played on a loop on one of the TV channels.
* $275pp (minimum two people), stanleyhotel.com
Paul Jones

Bag a 'thirteener' in the Rockies

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Great outdoor activities in Colorado: readers' tips

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Strawberry Hot Springs in the Rockies mixes very hot natural spring water with ice-cold runoff from melted snow. There are a number of pools at different temperatures, including (for the brave) an all-cold pool. The rustic design is very peaceful and attracts locals and tourists.

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Denver is a relatively young town with a shortage of truly historic venues, but the Paramount Theatre, which opened in 1930 as a grand movie house, is a well-preserved art-deco marvel and a legitimate historic site. The red-curtained stage regularly hosts national (if often sedate) touring acts, stand-up comedians and bestselling authors, as well as the occasional theatrical or musical production. The 1,700-capacity space doesn't look much from the outside but its vertical neon marquee hides one of the most charming rooms in the region. * 1621 Glenarm Place, +1 303 623 0106, paramountdenver.com

Denver is a relatively young town with a shortage of truly historic venues, but the Paramount Theatre, which opened in 1930 as a grand movie house, is a well-preserved art-deco marvel and a legitimate historic site. The red-curtained stage regularly hosts national (if often sedate) touring acts, stand-up comedians and bestselling authors, as well as the occasional theatrical or musical production. The 1,700-capacity space doesn't look much from the outside but its vertical neon marquee hides one of the most charming rooms in the region.
* 1621 Glenarm Place, +1 303 623 0106, paramountdenver.com

Gothic Theatre

A few minutes south of downtown Denver, this 1920s art-deco theatre has a wide, inviting floor, a tiered balcony and excellent views throughout. Adding to the backlit cabaret vibe is the recently muscled-up booking and promotion of the Gothic, following its takeover by live music promotor AEG Live. Few venues deliver as much atmosphere and comfort with such a range of shows.
* 3263 South Broadway, Englewood, +1 303 789 9206, gothictheatre.com

Swallow Hill Music

It's easy to tap into Denver's storied folk-music heritage with a show here: it's a non-profit school and complex that grew out of the Denver Folklore Center to host more than 200 shows annually at on-site venues such as Daniels Hall and the Tuft Theatre. Bluegrass banjo jams, Native American singer-songwriters and touring artists such as Leon Redbone share rooms with calm, appreciative audiences at this all-things-acoustic haven.
* 71 East Yale Avenue, +1 303 777 1003, swallowhillmusic.org

Bluebird Theater

Denver has no shortage of mid-size music venues, but the Bluebird Theater, a neon-ringed former movie house and rehabbed porn theatre, is arguably the best. Excellent sightlines and a chest-rattling sound system complement a mix of heavy metal, indie acts and singer-songwriters at this always-busy, 500-capacity room. Think Art Brut, Kurt Vile, Hank III, Apples in Stereo and Mason Jennings. Don't let the sometimes-surly staff dissuade you from throwing your best devil signs. A small but homey balcony offers a darkened spot from which to sip your lager in anonymity. Be sure to explore the colourful bars and restaurants along this hip stretch of Colfax Avenue before the show.
* 3317 East Colfax Avenue, +1 303 377 1666, bluebirdtheater.net

The Grizzly Rose

Cowboy hats and Levi's are the uniform at this sprawling country-and-western nightclub north of downtown. It devotes as much space to mechanical bulls and pool tables as line-dancing floors and a live music stage (filled with country and hard rock acts six nights a week). Sundays are all-ages, so if you've got a little buckaroo looking to hear some twang, it's the ideal place to push the limits of their bedtime.
* 5450 North Valley Highway, +1 303 295 1330, grizzlyrose.com

Beta Nightclub

Denver's Lower Downtown neighbourhood (LoDo to locals) is packed at weekends, but Beta Nightclub is an oasis in the dude-bro desert. The spare, multi-tiered space is frequently voted among the best electronic music clubs in the world thanks to its top-notch touring DJs and fantastically calibrated sound system. Denver boasts a surprisingly robust dance music scene, but Beta has no competition when it comes to its live roster and sound quality. Chalk it up to the fact that its owner is the co-founder of Beatport, the popular website that doubles as iTunes for DJs.
* 1909 Blake Street, +1 303 383 1909, betanightclub.com. Open Thurs-Sat 9pm-2am

Meadowlark Bar

Before their 2012 Grammy nominations, New York transplants The Lumineers honed folk-pop songs like Ho Hey at the Meadowlark's cozy open-mic scene. The handsome, subterranean bar has a ground-level patio that looks a bit like an exploded garage sale, providing respite from the often shoulder-to-shoulder crowds inside. From DJ-led dance parties to standup comedy and art rock, Meadowlark shows feel like insider affairs for the lucky few who can find it in Denver's rapidly gentrifying warehouse district.
* 2701 Larimer Street, +1 303 293 0251, meadowlarkbar.com

Dazzle Jazz

The purple neon that rings the outside of this Capitol Hill lounge are reflected in the windows of the surrounding buildings, and truly, Dazzle is a beacon for jazz lovers. A performance and dinner space, it hosts the region's best mix of local and national jazz talent, from avant garde to big band and solo artists. But the classy, inviting front room (or Dizzy Room) is equally popular with its liver-testing martini list and appetizer menus constructed from old gatefold LP covers. The Dizzy Room also offers free live jams and pop-in artists, so don't be surprised if your happy-hour drinks are suddenly soundtracked by a sax solo or torch singer.
* 930 Lincoln Street, +1 303 839 5100, dazzlejazz.com. Mon-Wed 4pm-midnight, Thurs 4pm-1am, Fri 11am-1am, Sat 4pm-1am, Sun 9.30am-midnight

Larimer Lounge

The dear departed 15th Street Tavern was one of Denver's go-to places for punk, indie and alternative acts, so when co-owner Scott Campbell founded the Larimer Lounge a little over a decade ago, all eyes were on the scummy, warehouse-district venue. After dozens of clever remodels and barn-burning indie rock shows (including Arcade Fire and Black Rebel Motorcycle Club) the Larimer has proved itself as a catalyst for the revitalisation of Denver's underground music scene, and the entire surrounding warehouse district.
* 2721 Larimer Street, +1 303 291 1007, larimerlounge.com. Mon-Fri 4pm-2am, Sat 6pm-to close, Sun, dependent on show

Hi-Dive

This sweaty, Pabst Blue Ribbon-soaked room is the heart of hipsterdom along Denver's bustling South Broadway corridor, hosting touring indie acts on their way up (think Vampire Weekend and Fleet Foxes) and an eclectic assortment of the Mile High City's best bands. The 300-person capacity club is also the home base for Marcus Mumford's pal Nathaniel Rateliff, who plies his delicate folk - and, lately, raucous soul side project The Night Sweats - from its tiny wooden stage. Before the show, pop in next door at sister bar/restaurant Sputnik to hear DJs spin vintage wax while you nosh on banh mi Vietnamese baguettes and housemade vegetarian corn dogs.
* 7 South Broadway, +1 303 733 0230,
Unless opening times are stated, check listings for details John Wenzel is an arts and entertainment critic at The Denver Post and columnist for The Post's music site, HeyReverb.com. Follow him on twitter @johntwenzel
* For more information on holidays in the USA, visit DiscoverAmerica.com
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Denver is a relatively young town with a shortage of truly historic venues, but the Paramount Theatre, which opened in 1930 as a grand movie house, is a well-preserved art-deco marvel and a legitimate historic site. The red-curtained stage regularly hosts national (if often sedate) touring acts, stand-up comedians and bestselling authors, as well as the occasional theatrical or musical production.

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Denver's only champagne bar is in Larimer Square and surrounded by some of the city's finest restaurants. It is sassy and sexy, with zebra-print carpeting and crystal chandeliers, but also approachable and friendly. It makes interesting and delicious champagne cocktails and has a great happy hour, Mon-Fri 4-6pm. It also offers caviar with traditional accompaniments, small plates and larger main courses.* 1433 Larimer Street, +1 303 893 0044, corridor44.com. Open daily 3pm-1.30am

Denver's only champagne bar is in Larimer Square and surrounded by some of the city's finest restaurants. It is sassy and sexy, with zebra-print carpeting and crystal chandeliers, but also approachable and friendly. It makes interesting and delicious champagne cocktails and has a great happy hour, Mon-Fri 4-6pm. It also offers caviar with traditional accompaniments, small plates and larger main courses.
* 1433 Larimer Street, +1 303 893 0044, corridor44.com. Open daily 3pm-1.30am

Williams and Graham

Walk into this speakeasy in the Lower Highlands neighbourhood in Denver and you'll think you've stumbled into a tiny bookstore from wild west days, but the shelves part and you are whisked into a back room where the cocktails are some of the best you will taste in the city. Williams and Graham is doing everything from scratch. It even carves its own ice cubes. The decor is rustic and simple. Reservations strongly recommended.
* 3160 Tejon Street, +1 303 997 8886, williamsandgraham.com. Open daily 5pm-1am

Pinche Tacos

This place juices its own citrus fruits daily and serves 15,000 margaritas a month; these, brimming with booze, are a steal at $4in Happy Hour (daily from 3-6pm, and all night Mondays). There are other can't-miss-cocktails, with mezcal, whiskey, and rum bases, if tequila is not your poison. Food-wise don't miss the chips and guacamole, pork belly tacos, or veggie tostada.
* 1514 York Street, +1 720 475 1337, pinchetacos.com. Open Mon 3pm-10pm, Tues-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-9pm

Beatrice and Woodsley

This bar offers simple, quality ingredients, carefully executed techniques, and cocktails that make you slow down and enjoy the finer things in life. Located between two lovely historic neighbourhoods full of restaurants, boutiques, and young Denver locals, it is also one of the hottest places to dine in the city. Carefully handcrafted cocktails are on special offer Mon-Fri 5pm-6.30pm.
* 38 South Broadway, +1 303 777 3505, beatriceandwoodsley.com. Open daily 5pm-to close

The Cherry Cricket

This bar in Denver's Cherry Creek neighbourhood doesn't fit in at all, and that's what everyone seems to love about it. The Cherry Cricket is a household name in Colorado - old, charming and full of character. There are 23 beers on tap and over 50 bottled and canned, so you'll be sure to find your favourite, and its stellar burgers are the perfect accompaniment. Happy hour is 4.30pm-6pm and 10pm-midnight, daily.
* 2641 East 2nd Avenue, +1 303 322 7666, cherrycricket.com. Open daily 11am-2am

Punchbowl Social

Bowling, shuffleboard, ping pong, pool, music, and punch bowls filled with booze - this new, giant, multi-level bar offers a little friendly competition as well as slaking thirsts. It feels like recess in school, but with booze. There's also a restaurant, serving excellent food. If just sitting at a bar is not your thing, get yourself to the Punchbowl Social.
* 65 Broadway, +1 303 765 2695, punchbowlsocial.com. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2am, Sat-Sun 8am-2am

The Cruise Room

Inside the historic Oxford Hotel, this martini bar oozes cool. It opened the day after prohibition was repealed in 1933 and is downtown Denver's first bar. Art deco with neon and chrome is the order of the day; many locals refer to it as The Red Room because of the red lighting. Cocktails and martinis are served by cocktail waitresses in 1930s garb.
* 1659 Wazee Street, +1 303 825 1107, theoxfordhotel.com. Open Sun-Thurs 4.30pm-11.45pm, Fri-Sat 4.30pm-12.45am

Ale House at Amato's

Ale House is the beer connoisseurs' choice, with 42 craft brews on tap and the beer lineup changing daily to showcase Colorado's greatest. It's in the super-hip Lower Highlands neighbourhood, and its patio has the best view of downtown Denver. This is the place to hang and drink like a local - it also serves a mean Moscow Mule in a copper mug. Happy hour is Mon-Thurs 3-7pm and Fri 3-6pm.
* 2501 16th Street, +1 303 433 9734, alehousedenver.com. Open Mon-Thurs 11am-midnight, Fri 11am-1am, Sat 10am-1am, Sun 10am-midnight

Viewhouse

Blocks away from Coors Field, home of the Colorado Rockies baseball team, this is the place to drink before and after a game. One of the best rooftop patios in all Denver boasts a view of the city and the stunning mountain backdrop. This is a huge space over multiple floors and offers activities such as lawn bowling and table tennis. The menu is local and often organic; beer cocktails use local craft beer and liquor to refresh on a hot Denver day.
* 2015 Market Street, +1 720 878 2015, viewhouse.com. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2am, Sun 10am-2am

Row Fourteen Bistro and Wine Bar

The food here is a big draw, but the wine list is something to marvel at. There are 40 wines by the glass and it rotates two lists on a weekly basis. It's passionate about wine, but also extremely approachable, making for an educational experience. In the heart of downtown, near The Denver Center for Performing Arts and The Colorado Convention Center, it's the perfect place to pop in before or after a show. Check the website for happy hour times.
* 891 14th Street #100, +1 303 825 0100, row14denver.com. Open Mon-Wed 11.30am-10pm, Thurs-Sat 11.30am-midnight, Sun 3pm-9pm

* For more information on holidays in the USA, visit DiscoverAmerica.com
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Denver's only champagne bar is in Larimer Square and surrounded by some of the city's finest restaurants. It is sassy and sexy, with zebra-print carpeting and crystal chandeliers, but also approachable and friendly. It makes interesting and delicious champagne cocktails and has a great happy hour, Mon-Fri 4-6pm.

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Food-infatuated Denverites secure a seat at the chef's counter to witness chef-owner Lon Symensma's culinary magic, which unfolds in an exhibition kitchen that struts Southeast Asian dishes of the kind that make you drop your jaw. Symensma's presentations, the food equivalent of mosaics, remind you of museum art, each plate beautifully composed with impeccable ingredients. The soup dumplings spilling with sweet onions and melty gruyère are as good as it gets, a punch of flavours that explode like rockets in your mouth. The kaya toast with coconut jam and a jar of custard-like "egg cloud" requires you to demand that your heart be still. * 1555 Blake Street, +1 303 353 5223, cholon.com. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm and from 5pm daily. Mains from $13

Food-infatuated Denverites secure a seat at the chef's counter to witness chef-owner Lon Symensma's culinary magic, which unfolds in an exhibition kitchen that struts Southeast Asian dishes of the kind that make you drop your jaw. Symensma's presentations, the food equivalent of mosaics, remind you of museum art, each plate beautifully composed with impeccable ingredients. The soup dumplings spilling with sweet onions and melty gruyère are as good as it gets, a punch of flavours that explode like rockets in your mouth. The kaya toast with coconut jam and a jar of custard-like "egg cloud" requires you to demand that your heart be still.
* 1555 Blake Street, +1 303 353 5223, . Mon-Fri 11am-2pm and from 5pm daily. Mains from $13

Cafe Brazil

Stunningly prepared seafood dishes take centre stage at this exuberant north Denver shrine to Brazil, with its aromatic thumps of garlic, ginger, dendê (palm) oil and chillies, most of which penetrate the mind-altering stews bobbing with scallops, shrimp or bacalhau, a dried and salted cod. Chef-owner Tony Zarlenga pairs his flavour-bombed marvels, which also include feijoada (black bean stew, the national dish of Brazil), with an unparalleled rum roster that trumpets nearly 100 bottles in the adjacent - and equally ebullient - Rum Room, which throbs to Brazilian beats.
* 4408 Lowell Boulevard, +1 303 480 1877, cafebrazildenver.com. Tues-Sat 5pm-10pm. Mains from $16

El Taco de Mexico

No sojourn in the Mile High City is complete without at least one trip to this taqueria, which turns out the city's best green chile stew, a savoury, spice-smacked nod to Denver's unapologetic obsession with the dish. The open kitchen is commanded by unflappable women whose conversations - always in Spanish - are muted by the thud of cleavers that come down on pieces of meat, which are quickly turned into street tacos, or tucked into flour tortillas draped with that magnificent green chile and specked with coriander and onions. The fearsomely spicy salsa is an object of true beauty, too.
* 714 Santa Fe Drive, +1 303 623 3926, eltacodemexicodenver.com. Daily 7am-10pm (11pm Fri and Sat). Mains from $5

Tom's Home Cookin'

The queue at this purveyor of comfort food in the Five Points neighbourhood often starts long before the doors swing open, but the Southern-inspired platters, served in colossal heaps in boxes, more than make up for the wait. The board changes daily, and while you'll probably want one of everything, the copper-crusted fried chicken - if it's available - flies me to the moon. So, too, does the andouille sausage and chicken gumbo, the meatloaf and the stewed collard greens, and for a flourishing finale, peach cobbler channels every sweet tooth's fantasy. Get an extra one for the road.
* 800 East 26th Avenue, +1 303 388 8035, @TomsHomeCookin. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm. Cash only. Mains from $12

Vietnam Grill

Vietnam Grill is more than a pho parlour, although you'll always encounter a procession of pho aficionados slurping noodles from steaming broths. But my advice is to forgo the pho (for that, point your chopsticks to Pho 95) and explore the funkier offerings on the ambitious menu of more than 150 dishes. There's a bloodied, deeply crimson soup, for example, bobbing with pig's feet, stellar pork-stuffed chicken wings, or playful bánh khot, custardy, rice-flour "cupcakes" that brim with pudgy shrimp, toasted coconut flakes and ribbons of spring onion. Its strip mall setting isn't particularly appealing, but the interior, bedecked with white table linens illuminated by soft lighting, makes it one of the few Vietnamese joints in Denver that's conducive to a couple's outing.
* 1015 South Federal Boulevard, +1 303 936 5610, facebook.com/VietnamGrill/info. Thurs-Tues 10am-10pm. Mains from $10

Biker Jim's

There are plenty of pedestrian wiener slingers on Denver's asphalt, but Biker Jim, aka Jim Pittenger, is the city's bona fide frankfurter gigolo, pumping out a slew of exotic, grilled sausages, from reindeer and elk to wild boar and rattlesnake. Regulars - and there are lots of them - order their dogs crowned with onions soaked in Coca-Cola and a squiggle of cream cheese fired from a caulking gun, but when it comes to toppings, the possibilities are endless. But don't stop there: sides such as charred cauliflower, fried green tomatoes and deep-fried macaroni and cheese deserve their legions of fans, as do the ice-cream sandwiches.
* 2148 Larimer Street, +1 720 749 9355, bikerjimsdogs.com. Thurs-Sun 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-2am. Mains from $6

Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar

Fact: Colorado is a landlocked state. Myth: the absence of an ocean means an empty net. For proof that this city swims with the sharks, sail straight to Jax Fish House and Oyster Bar, with two locations in Denver and four altogether in the state. Within the polished living museum of aquatics, which sources its sustainable seafood from coastal fishermen, is a glistening ice bar stocked with bright, briny, shiny oysters, shrimp, clams, king and Dungeness crab and Maine lobsters. Caviar, along with made-to-order clam chowder and a seasonally conscious fish scroll that might proffer Alaskan halibut, Bristol Bay salmon or grilled Gulf prawns, round out the nautical eats that are bolstered by clever cocktails, offbeat wines and excellent craft beers, mostly brewed in Colorado.
* 650 South Colorado Boulevard, +1 303 756 6449, jaxfishhouse.com. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, daily from 4pm, Sunday brunch 10am-2pm. Mains from $13

Squeaky Bean

Call them what you like - foodniks, foodies or gastronauts - they all clamour for chef Max MacKissock's innovative cooking. His cutting-edge New American style trumpets ingredients from the restaurant's own one-acre farm, and MacKissock, who thinks way beyond ordinary culinary boundaries, transforms just about everything he touches into a showstopper. You can order à la carte, but I highly recommend splurging on one of his tasting menus - a four- or seven-course symphony of dishes that can be paired with wines. A spectacular cocktail menu - easily one of Denver's best - elevates the bar to new heights, and the globe-trotting cheese cart is a lovely ending to a sublime dinner.
* 1500 Wynkoop Street, + 1 303 623 2665, thesqueakybean.net. Tues-Sat 5pm-10pm; Sunday brunch 10am-3pm. Tasting menus from $55

Osteria Marco

Chef Frank Bonanno has an empire of restaurants in Denver, but my favourite is his Larimer Square osteria, a rollicking homage to thin-crusted pizzas, housemade salumi and cheeses and suckling pig, the latter of which is served only on Sunday night. Sashay down the wide staircase, past the ever-present throng at the bar sipping cocktails and slip into a booth to consider the marvel that's the Carbonara pizza splayed with an egg that spills a river of yolk over the crisped pancetta. Then again, you can simply graze on pulled pork, bresaola and lonza, all of which are made in-house, as is the unassailable burrata.
* 1453 Larimer Street, +1 303 534 5855, osteriamarco.com. Daily from 11am. Mains from $10

Fruition

Chef, owner, farmer, butcher, cheesemaker and forager Alex Seidel's gift to locals - and everyone else who takes pleasure in food - is this Capitol Hill jewel, barely bigger than a thimble, but a place where strangers become friends, bonding over just-picked beets, turnips and seasonally inspired vegetables sharing space on the plate with centrepieces of wonderment: Colorado lamb loin, roast pork, steelhead trout, duck breast, or pan-seared diver scallops dusted with cured foie gras powder. Seidel's menu changes on a whim, thanks to his intense focus on fresh ingredients - but this is where you want to celebrate, well, anything, including just an exquisite dinner out.
* 1313 East Sixth Avenue, +1 303 831 1962, fruitionrestaurant.com. Daily from 5pm. Mains from $24
Lori Midson is Cafe Society Editor for Westword, in Denver
* For more information on holidays in the USA, visit DiscoverAmerica.com
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Top 10 restaurants and places to eat in Denver, Colorado

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Food-infatuated Denverites secure a seat at the chef's counter to witness chef-owner Lon Symensma's culinary magic, which unfolds in an exhibition kitchen that struts Southeast Asian dishes of the kind that make you drop your jaw. Symensma's presentations, the food equivalent of mosaics, remind you of museum art, each plate beautifully composed with impeccable ingredients.

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Denver's original craft brewery, Wynkoop has been around since 1988, but age hasn't stopped it experimenting: gummy bears, green chillies, and Rocky Mountain oysters (otherwise known as bull testicles) have all made it into Wynkoop's brews. In a former Victorian warehouse, it has pressed-tin ceilings, arched windows, and hardwood floors, making Wynkoop an elegant place to enjoy a pint and maybe a dish from the beer-infused menu (soups and salads from $6, burgers and sandwiches from $9 ). Choose the Rail Yard amber ale ($5) and you're in good company: it's what President Obama and Colorado governor John Hickenlooper, one of Wynkoop's original founders, enjoyed over a game of billiards here in 2014. * 1634 18th Street, +1 303 297 2700, wynkoop.com. Open Sun-Thurs 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat 11am-2am

Denver's original craft brewery, Wynkoop has been around since 1988, but age hasn't stopped it experimenting: gummy bears, green chillies, and Rocky Mountain oysters (otherwise known as bull testicles) have all made it into Wynkoop's brews. In a former Victorian warehouse, it has pressed-tin ceilings, arched windows, and hardwood floors, making Wynkoop an elegant place to enjoy a pint and maybe a dish from the beer-infused menu (soups and salads from $6, burgers and sandwiches from $9 ). Choose the Rail Yard amber ale ($5) and you're in good company: it's what President Obama and Colorado governor John Hickenlooper, one of Wynkoop's original founders, enjoyed over a game of billiards here in 2014.
* 1634 18th Street, +1 303 297 2700, wynkoop.com. Open Sun-Thurs 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat 11am-2am

Great Divide Brewing Co

With 18 Great American Beer Festival medals to its name, Great Divide is often packed shoulder-to-shoulder at weekends. However, it's worth squeezing into the red-brick taproom, in an old dairy processing plant, to sample some of its 16 award-winning beers. A popular brew is the Espresso Oak Aged Yeti Imperial Stout, which is bold, malty - and infused with locally roasted coffee. Mind you, at 9.5% ABV, you might want to line your stomach with something from the nearby food trucks first. If things get too crowded, check out Great Divide's barrel bar in the RiNo Art District, which has plans for a new brewery, restaurant, and taproom.
* 2201 Arapahoe Street, +1 303 296 9460, greatdivide.com. Open Sun-Tues noon-8pm, Wed-Sat noon-10pm

Ratio Beerworks

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Punk rock meets craft beer at Ratio, where beers named after bands are displayed above the bar on an illuminated bulletin board with movable letters - the kind more commonly seen outside gig venues. One of Denver's newest breweries (it opened in February 2015), Ratio has six flagship beers on tap, each with its own distinct flavour and finish. Most popular are Repeater, an extra pale ale ($5), and Dear You, a French saison ale ($6). Ratio's taproom is a riot of colour, with geometric wallpaper, canary-yellow bar stools, and industrial red-trim benches, while the patio is the perfect spot for a game of corn hole or ladder golf.
* 2920 Larimer Street, +1 303 997 8288, ratiobeerworks.com. Open Mon-Wed 3pm-11pm, Thurs 3pm-midnight, Fri-Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-11pm

Vine Street Pub

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Photograph: Rich Vossler Photography

From the cosy living room atmosphere to the patio shaded by honey locust trees, laid-back Vine Street is the epitome of Colorado. Instead of the widescreen TVs found in bars across the US, the walls are adorned with psychedelic rock posters and striking chalkboard art, which is wiped away and replaced every few months. Award-winning brews include the hoppy Colorado Kind Ale and Illusion Dweller IPA (both $5). If that's not enough to whet your appetite, Vine Street's locally sourced food menu has 12 award-winning burger combinations, including local favourite Junk Burger: bacon, cheese, sautéed mushrooms and onions, and roasted garlic mayo ($9.45).
* 1700 Vine Street, +1 303 388 2337, mountainsunpub.com. Open daily, 11am-1am

Black Shirt Brewing Co

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Is there a better match than live music and craft beer? Black Shirt doesn't think so. Guitars and concert posters line the walls of this small-batch brewery, and local bands are queuing up to perform on the makeshift stage built from wooden pallets in its backyard. Following the philosophy: "Do one thing and do it better than anyone else," Black Shirt only brews red ales - and boy, does them well. The Colorado Red ($6) is strong and malty with a hint of hops and toffee, while the Celery Gose ($5), features yuzu (an Asian citrus fruit), lemongrass, and fresh celery. And while Black Shirt doesn't do meals, it has perfected the art of bar snacks - serving popcorn, pretzels, beef jerky and pickles.
* 3719 Walnut Street, +1 303 993 2799, blackshirtbrewingco.com. Open Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm

Baere Brewing Company

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Denver's original craft brewery, Wynkoop has been around since 1988, but age hasn't stopped it experimenting: gummy bears, green chillies, and Rocky Mountain oysters (otherwise known as bull testicles) have all made it into Wynkoop's brews.

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Denver sprang up 155 years ago when prospectors hunkered down on the banks of the South Platte river near the Rocky Mountains to pan for specks of gold. They established an unlikely future metropolis, now home to two and a half million people. When I was growing up here, Denver suffered a post-1980s oil-bust funk and seemed content with its image as a sleepy stopover. But a 90s revitalisation transformed it, making it walkable, bikeable, even kayak-able, and attracting tech companies, startups, innovative chefs and creatives.

Denver only suffers about 35 overcast days a year. Consequently, Denverites are a sunny, sincere lot, traits so characteristic that whenever I encounter a crabby person, I always ask where they're from. In Denver, happiness is a way of life: a recent Gallup poll measured Colorado second only to Hawaii in its US wellbeing index. It's little wonder we're content in Denver, with a big blue sky, devotion to outdoor exercise that floods us with endorphins, and liberal consumption of craft beer.

If you want to pretend you're a Denverite, wake early and jog around Washington Park or pedal the Cherry Creek or South Platte river cycle paths on a sturdy rental bike from one of over 40 Denver Bcycle stations. True to its reputation as a fitness mecca, Denver was the first US city to launch an extensive bike-sharing programme in 2010. Denverites love their bikes: on Wednesdays hundreds of costumed riders on tricked-out cycles take over the streets with the Denver Cruiser Ride, a roving two-wheeled hootenanny.

For lunch, head to the always-packed Pinche Tacos at 1514 York Street , where inspired fillings come wrapped in tender corn tortillas. If you're brave, try the sinus-clearing xni pec salsa, which the bartender translated as "so spicy it would make a dog sneeze". You'll leave happy, with messy fingers and spice-tingling lips.

If you're not up for additional vigorous exercise, take a culture break. The Museum of Contemporary Art Denver mounts interactive exhibits such as "Thinking About Flying", which gave visitors homing pigeons to take home and release. For Black Sheep Fridays it throws themed cocktail parties, with an air guitar workshop or a lesson in buffalo butchery.

The new Clyfford Still museum is a striking home for the work of the abstract expressionist whose paintings were rarely shown before. Concrete has never looked so light as it does in the building's delicate, latticed ceiling, permeated with oval holes, letting skylight shift over its floors of blue-tinged wood under Still's bold paintings.

The Kirkland Museum is packed with decorative art, including "futuristic" chairs from Woody Allen's 1973 movie Sleeper. Or seek your art fix on the streets: on the first Friday of each month, the Art District on Santa Fe teems with performances, upscale food trucks and art. Last November, Aztec performers wearing face paint and pheasant feather crowns danced past me down Santa Fe Drive beating hand drums, shell ankle bracelets rattling as they moved.

It's not only oxygen-deprived Denverites who think the Tattered Cover Book Store at 1628 16th Street is the best in the US: it was the only one author Neil Gaiman appeared in during his recent US tour. My friends and I visit the Tattered Cover for our Denver Literary Kidnapping and Drinking Club, attending a reading and then gently coercing the author to come drink tequila with us at Mezcal, also on East Colfax.

For live music, head 10 miles west to scenic Red Rocks, where if you've been exercising properly you can win the uphill race for front general admission seats in the stunning natural amphitheatre, site of U2's Under A Blood Red Sky concert video. Or stay in town and catch bands at a hotspot such as Hi-Dive, Meadowlark Bar, Lion's Lair (2022 East Colfax) or Bluebird Theater.

Dinner options are endless, since lots of talented chefs have migrated here. I've been feasting at Rioja for years, and in May, when the James Beard Foundation named Rioja's Jennifer Jasinski best chef in the Southwest, I thought well, it's about time. Linger serves global street food from a rehabbed mortuary in the bustling Highlands neighbourhood. Try Z Cuisine for savoury Colorado boeuf bourguignon, The Kitchen or Potager for impeccable farm-to-table fare, and The Squeaky Bean for the unexpected: "shaved torchon, dippin dots, torn crouton, currant pate de fruit" anyone?

When in Denver, always save room for beer. Denver brews more beer than any other American city, and tickets to the annual Great American Beer Festival held at Colorado Convention Center from 10-12 October sell out within minutes of going on sale (on 31 July this year).

Don't even mention weak Coors pilsner at Denver's many craft breweries. Visit the Barrel Cellar (1441 West 46th Avenue) home of the Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project, where master brewer Chad Yakobson shows off what he learned from his degree in brewing (and distilling) at Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh. Drink a Red Saison at the Black Shirt Brewing Company (3719 Walnut Street), a Yeti Stout at Great Divide (201 Arapahoe Street), or a Hello, Darkness Black IPA at River North Brewery).

If you're not used to Denver's dry air, strong sun and mile-high altitude, remember, drink half the alcohol and twice the water and bathe in sunblock. Or ignore these rules - even when tipsy you surely can remember that the mountains mark the west. And if you want to fit in, hit the hiking trails next day, hangover and all.
Jenny Shank Jenny's debut novel, For more information on holidays in the USA see This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase. All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative.
The links are powered by Skimlinks. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that Skimlinks cookies will be set. More information. DiscoverAmerica.com The Ringer, set in Denver, her home town, won the 2012 High Plains Book Award in fiction Topics

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Denver, Colorado: city of mile-high delights

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Denver sprang up 155 years ago when prospectors hunkered down on the banks of the South Platte river near the Rocky Mountains to pan for specks of gold. They established an unlikely future metropolis, now home to two and a half million people.