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DESIGNERS USING OPEN NET STRUCTURES

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DESIGNER RESEARCH

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Spring 2017 Couture

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Open net structure, with elongated sleeves.

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Maison Margiela incorporate open structures in many of their collections.

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Spring 2016

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Maison Margiela Fall 2016 Couture.

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Spring 2020

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Fall 2015

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Fall 2018

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Knitwear oversized and worn incorrectly on the body. I particularly enjoy this oversized turtleneck.

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Decayed fishermans jumper. Historical archives.

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Umit Benan Fall 2015

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Further dye samples.

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Decaying knits on photoshop by removing parts of the pattern.

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Using the pattern of decay in my primary research images to inform my decay pattern on Photoshop.

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Extra fishing myths images.

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Decay experimentation

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Exploring fashion silhouettes.

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Primary Research

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Selected Secondary Research - taken from Fishing News archives

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Primary Research - Polaroids

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Pineapple stitch on 5 gauge.

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Cables on domestic knit machine.

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Knit samples - trialing industrial knit machine techniques that I find reminiscent of elements of fishing.

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I tie dyed the sample using brown and beige dye. The result is unsuccessful as it just washes out the pattern.

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Hopeman Fairisle knitted in various shades of brown to create washed out, faded look.

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White ink on one of my Hopeman Fairisle samples. Due to the lambswool soaking up the ink, combined with the dark yarn, the white ink was not as overpowering as I would have liked it to be. On the right, I used Photoshop to show what the ink should have looked like.

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After attempting to darn my samples to recreate Celia Pym's white-out affect, I was unhappy with the results. I also struggled to find bleach that would completely take out all colour. Still interested in recreating the effect I see on the rocks at Hopeman, I began experimenting with white ink on knit.

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Unsuccessful -I believed by knitting the twisted elongated stitches, then knitting at a tighter tension it would cause the sample to pull in and give this effect.

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Searching for methods of layering over knits, I remembered when I used MagicTouch heatpressed on my knit in second year.

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Prototype of a knit heat-pressed with the text of a poem from my Granda's book. To represent decaying, I am playing around with removing parts of the text.

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Dry knit with dye and heavy amounts of water placed on.

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Knit pre-soaked in water

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Dry knit with dye placed on.

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For the trousers, I plan on using the cut & sew method. I will manipulate a basic mens trouser block to my design, knit panels and then cut them to shape and sew them together.

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Experimenting with bleaching cotton yarns - unsuccessful. Bleached very well but caused the yarns to turn unpredictable colours such as neon orange and pink, which does not fit in my project.

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Finnish postcard from 1952 I bought in Helsinki.

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This reminded me of rust dyed fabric

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Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies

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Balloon-like shapes in knit.

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Fishermen in the early 20th Century in The Netherlands wore traditional Volendam worker pants with clogs.

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100% cotton knit sprayed with bleach

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Experimenting with bleach as a way to erode knits - mostly unsuccessful. The only sample the bleach worked well on was the 100% cotton.

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Celia Pym visible darning - I loved the white-out effect this gave. The speckled white effect reminded me of the rocks at Hopeman beach.

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RUST