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3.1 Describe the roles within a team laying fabric manually

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3.1 Describe the roles within a team laying fabric manually

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You need two people when fabric laying manually.
2 people load the fabric on to the table.
One roles the fabric along the table and the second person check that is laying flat and smoothly as it is moved along.

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3.2 Describe the lay planning process: CAD/CAM

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3.2 Describe the lay planning process: CAD/CAM

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3.2 Describe the lay planning process: Manual

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3.2 Describe the lay planning process: Manual

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3.3 Selecting the correct lay plan for: stretch, fabric and nap check

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3.3 Selecting the correct lay plan for: stretch, fabric and nap check

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Velvet:

Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel in a specific direction.

Pattern pieces should be laid in the same direction so that the nap of the fabric is in the same direction, known as a single lay all pieces must be placed in the same direction so that the nap of the fabric is unanimous.

Stretch:

First identify whether the fabric is 2-way stretch or 4-way stretch. If it is 2-way stretch the fabric will curl along the edges (4-way stretch will lie flat).

2 way stretch fabric:

Must make sure that the fabric lays parallel to the selvedge, because the fabric is has more stretch in one direction than the other. For this you could use

lengthwise fold

double fold

4-way stretch:The stretch is even therefore you are able to use various folds, such as:

lengthwise fold

double fold

crosswise fold

Checks:

The pattern piece should be marked with pencil where the stripe positions are placed on the garment. This ensures that the pattern can be matched to adjoining pattern pieces on the seam line when sewn together later.

Mark the check pattern onto adjoining pattern pieces and match up on the seam line, not the cutting line.

To see if the check is even, fold the fabric in half and line up the dominant stripe. Turn back the top corner at a right angle.

If the stripes match across the diagonal fold in both colour and width the check is even. If the design does not match, the checks are uneven.

Knit fabrics:

They are hard to keep the grain aligned as the fabric moves.

On single knits, edges and selvedges curl therefore you must determine the direction of the fabric.

Satin:

Fabrics that do not have a thick pile but still have a nap like satin.

Many satins look different when held in different directions thus all pattern pieces should be laid in the same direction.

Embellished fabrics: beads and embroidery.

Many sequined and beaded fabrics are one-way due to the sheen or dominant motif. Use the “with nap” layout guide.

Lace and net:

These fabrics are hard to lay as some of the fabrics do not have selvedges.

Therefore the lengthwise motifs must be used to establish a grain line.

Wide width of fabric can also cause problem, such as tulle as its is tricky to fit.

Specialty weaves:

Determine the direction of the fabric. Make sure all pattern pieces are laid in the same direction for one-way fabrics.

Non fabrics: Leather, suede latex.

These fabrics cannot be pinned.

Most of them are one way due to the grain or nap.

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Fabric laying, different types of fabric

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3.4 Demonstrate and explain how to "Mark in" ensuring the correct positioning and placing of patterns for economic use of materia 

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3.4 Demonstrate and explain how to "Mark in" ensuring the correct positioning and placing of patterns for economic use of materia 

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A marker is commonly done by using a large thin piece of paper, containing all pieces of the pattern for a specific style of garments. Marking is used to ensure the correct positioning and placing of patterns for economical use. It helps to optimize use of fabric reducing fabric waste. Thus this speeds up the production process as less fabric needs to be laid up as many as possible pattern pieces are laid creating the maximum number of pieces from one lay of fabric.

Whole garment lay plan

Single size lay plan

Multi size lay plan

Sectional lay plan

Interlocking lay plan

Mixed multi-sized lay plan

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3.5 Manually lay-up fabric within tolerance in accordance with organisational rules, codes, guidelines and standards

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3.5 Manually lay-up fabric within tolerance in accordance with organisational rules, codes, guidelines and standards

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When manual lay planning 85% of the fabric should be used up to ensure economical sustainable use, this is the manufacture ‘Fashion Enter guidelines when manually lay-planning. Rules, codes and standards are expected and may differ in different organisations, businesses and countries, such as:

Determine tolerance levels for seams

Placements of style details / trims

Tolerance levels for finished sizes

Hem width

Thread direction

Pattern direction

Nap

If all these are considered when lay planning along with the types of folds and layering of fabric. The fabric lay will be optimizing the minimum wastage.

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3.6 Identify acceptable material faults and mark for future identification

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3.6 Identify acceptable material faults and mark for future identification

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A fabric fault is any defect in the fabric that prevents its being sold to a consumer:

Coloured flecks:

Coloured flecks are the presence of coloured foreign matter in the yarn.

It is caused when cotton fibres getting contaminated during the ginning stage with leaves, immature fibre, yellow fibre, etc.

To repair coloured flecks, coloured portion is removed from the yarn with a plucker. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by combing with metallic comb.

Knots:

A knot is a fastening made by tying together the ends of yarn

This is caused by thread breaking during the process of winding, warping, sizing or weaving

Knots are non-mendable

Slub:

Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn

Slubbing is caused by improper carding/combing. As broken tooth is caught in the chain of gear system.

To fix slub, slub should be cut with the clipper from both the ends. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by combing with a metallic comb or by insertion of a separate thread with the help of fine needle.

Broken pattern:

A broken pattern is the non continuity of a weave/ design/ pattern

It is caused when the wrong drawing in of threads creates incorrect shedding.

This is non mendable.

Broken pattern due to defective piles

A broken pattern is the result of non-continuity of the design/pattern in the pile fabric.

Caused by improper working of terry motion on loom and improper functioning of jacquard.

Broken patterns due to defective piles and non-mendable.

Bunching up:

This is largely influenced by take-up mechanism and whether it functions properly or not.

Caused by the fabric take-up being too weak. As well as,thick place in yarn.

Unable to fix bunching up.

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2.1 Explain the characteristics of  range of knitted fabrics

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2.1 Explain the characteristics of  range of knitted fabrics

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Check folder.

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1.1 Follow safe working practices in a workroom. 1.2 Use workroom equipment safety.

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1.1 Follow safe working practices in a workroom. 1.2 Use workroom equipment safety.

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Completed

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2.2 Explain the characteristics of a range of woven fabrics

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2.2 Explain the characteristics of a range of woven fabrics

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Check folder.

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2.3 Identify fabrics that require special attention when lay planning

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2.3 Identify fabrics that require special attention when lay planning

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Check folder.

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2.4 List the paperwork needed for lay planning

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2.4 List the paperwork needed for lay planning

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Check folder.