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Trim the seam allowance and bag out the waistcoat through the gap you have left in the side seam. Close the gap with a felling stitch and then side stitch along the neckline, armhole, centre front, side seams, and hem line. Remove all basting thread and complete final pressing of the garment.

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You are now in the final stages of construction. Machine stitch with a seam allowance of 1cm around the waistcoat through only the waist coat fabric at the shoulder and side seams, leaving a fist shaped gap at one side seam for bagging this out. When stitching the lining at the arm hole and neck hole, stitch as close to the waistcoat fabric as possible without stitching through it. Do not stitch along the hem.

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Next, machine stitch the centre backs right sides together with a 1cm seam allowance and press open the seam. Fold the cut out straps right side together and machine stitch along the length of them with a 0.5cm seam allowance. The narrow end should be stitched with a 1cm seam allowance. Finally press seams open and bag out the straps.

To attach, match up the straps with the notches marked out on the side seams of the lining, laying them toward the centre back. Find the centre point crossover of the straps and baste into place. Next mark a 1cm rectangle in the centre of each strap and secure with a prick stitch that follows the shape of the rectangle.

Then machine stitch the newly joined centre backs along the hemline with a 1cm seam allowance and press seams open. Then lay the waistcoat pieces on the longer back piece, right side to right side, with 1cm overhang of lining at the shoulder and side seams and baste around the entire waistcoat.

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Make a 1cm fold along this marked out line, using the vacuum board to hold the fabric in place. Baste along this fold to hold it in place.

Mark 2cm below the hemline on the lining and baste along the fold to the centre of the waistcoat from the top. After the armhole position begin by bringing the chalk line on the lining up evenly with each stitch to match the hemline of the waistcoat. Then fold back the edges of the lining under itself and trim off excess where necessary so that it lies 3.5cm from the centre front, 2.5cm from the neckline, 2cm from the hemline and 0.3cm from the arm hole.

Baste the folded edges into place and fell along all the folded edges in order to secure the lining to the waistcoat. Then using the lining, lay the pattern pieces for the back of the waistcoat and the straps, ensuring you have the grainline correctly mapped.  The final pattern will ensure you have two straps and four separate back pieces - noting that two will be 1.5cm longer than the others.

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You are now ready to start stitching in the lining. Prepare the fabric by pressing and cut two rectangular pieces slightly larger than the size of the waistcoat pieces. The lay them on top of the waistcoat pieces, find the centre line and mark this in with chalk in order to follow the curved shape of the waistcoat

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Measure 0.5cm from the side seam and snip, fold back and baste into place to secure. At the hem line, measure 0.5cm from the side seam and snip. To baste the hem, fold back the hem along the tailor tacks marking this out and stitch. The fold back the facing and baste securely into place. Next bag out the stitched on facing, push the point out at the hem, carefully fold back the corners at the hem and break line, basting securely into place.

Then fell the folded in corners of the stitched on facing to the folded back hem and facing.

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Overcast stitch along the raw edges of the canvas to secure. Then attach the facing to the centre front of the waistcoat, place the right sides together and machine stitch from the break line along the curve to a little before the hemline. Ensure you leave a seam allowance of 0.5cm. Once you have reached the hemline, keep the needle down, turn the garment and using the hemline as a guide, machine stitch at 2.5cm toward the centre of the waistcoat. Press this seam open.

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Trim away the canvas from the break line and the hem line, then trim 0.8cm of the canvas from the side seam and the centre front. Next, cut two strips of linen tape approximately 1cm smaller than the break line, arm hole curve, centre front curve and hemline, fold these strips in half lengthwise. Then baste the strips along the centre of where they have been measured, ensuring to overlap the canvas edge slightly. Make sure to add fullness and ease them in as you stitch to ensure no gaps.

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You are now ready to start the welt pockets suing the method outlined in https://padlet.com/esthersd/flxeda7tkfrx

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Next baste the canvas to the forepart of the waistcoat with a diagonal stitch along the centre. Then diagonal baste from the middle to the hem and middle to the shoulder seam.

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Mark the waistcoat canvas along the line of where it will be basted to the fabric. One line will be horizontal approximately half the length of the waistcoat and the other will be placed vertically at half the width of the waistcoat. Another line will run vertically around 1cm from the break line and end 5cm from the centre front. Then mark a line 1cm in from the armhole following the curve running 5cm away from the side seam.

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Next cut two small round pieces of fusible interfacing and fuse to the top point of the dart in order to strengthen.

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Next cut two pieces of Silesia that are wider than the strips of canvas and half the length of the dart then mark the centre length. The on the outer layer of the fabric machine stitch the darts closed with the Silesia positioned the centre line of the dart. This should be on the wrong side of the fabric, from the top point of the dart to the base. Next snip the fold of the dart on the wrong side of the fabric, as far up as you can go. Press the dart open.

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Cut two strips of canvas slightly longer and wider than the dart. Place the strips onto the removed darts on each portion of canvas you have marked out so that they cover the removed dart. Then machine stitch along one side of the dart to attach the strip. After pinning the dart closed, machine stitch the other side to close this. You will then zigzag stitch the length of the closed dart on both pieces of canvas

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To prepare the canvas for the pattern, press this first to ensure rigidity. Fold along the grainline and place the front section of the waistcoat onto the canvas to strike around. As always ensure grainlines are matched.

Cut around the pattern marked out on the canvas and mark in the dart from the waistcoat pattern 2.5cm away toward the side seam in order to avoid bulk.

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Next, separate the pairs by snipping through the mark stitches. Then, using the front section, lay this back onto the fabric and align the grainlines. With chalk trace the centre front and offset by 6cm in order to strike the facings. Then cut these out.

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Next mark stitch the pairs together through both layers, ensuring to mark the hem line, darts, pocket position etc...in order to mark these to the other side of the pair. Now you are ready to cut, ensure that notches are all snipped and marked out accordingly on all pattern pieces.

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To start your lay plan for the waistcoat, fold fabric along the grain in half to ensure pieces are cut in pairs or on the fold as indicated in the pattern. Place pattern pieces economically and strike out with chalk, ensuring notches, darts and other pattern indicators are included. You will also need to mark the hemline and facing positions on the pattern.

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Prepare fabric by pressing on wrong side. Mark fabric on wrong side