# data[].attributes.body
Everything from security Softwear, security appliances and firewalls

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
CDW - Computers, Hardware, Software and IT Solutions for Business

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The information technology products, expertise and service you need to make your business successful. Fast shipping, fast answers, the industry's largest in-stock inventories, custom configurations and more.

# data[].attributes.body
Excellent for any application

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Directron - Computers, Computer Parts, Electronics, Laptops, Tablets and More

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The best deals on computers, computer parts, desktops, laptops, electronics, tablets, software, gaming, hard drives, CPUs, motherboards, cables, and much more. With fast shipping and great customer service from Houston, Texas!

# data[].attributes.body
Software for product designers Engineers and Prototypers

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Personal parts list manager software for engineers, designers and prototypers

# data[].attributes.body
Discounted parts and accessories

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Evertek Computer Corporation - Your best source of discount electronics. - Evertek

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Evertek is the World's Largest Wholesale Computer Parts Specialist; Wholesale Computers, Computer Distributors, Wholesale Electronics, Computer Hardware Supplier, Wholesale Computer Parts...

# data[].attributes.body
Anything from parts to accessories

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
TigerDirect Business - Electronics, Tablets, Phones, Office Supplies & Video Games

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Shop TigerDirect Business for the best prices on computers, computer parts, electronics & more! With over 100,000 items online to choose from, we offer a wide selection of your favorite products. You shop fast, we ship fast at TigerDirect Business!

# data[].attributes.body
Website you could purchase computer parts from

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
We apologize for the confusion, but we can't quite tell if you're a person or a script. Please don't take this personally. Bots and scripts can be very much lifelike these days! To help us better protect your account security, please check the CAPTCHA box below.

# data[].attributes.body
How to build a PC: a step-by-step guide to building the best PC

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
It might be hard sourcing PC components right now, but learning how to build a PC is still a fulfilling task, regardless of what the best graphics cards are going for right now. The process actually remains the same - you need to research and choose the components that will make up the you're trying to put together. After all, you want a PC that you can show off with pride.

If you've never built a PC before, it can be a scary undertaking, especially considering that it is a good amount of work. Though a lot of people act like it's an easy task building a , you might find it a discouraging process your first time around. And, that's okay.

And, before you get too down about any issues you're facing, we're here to help. We've built quite a few PCs and have used our expertise to put together this step-by-step guide so you can build your PC in no time. We'll make it as painless as possible and take you from beginning to end.

(Image credit: DisobeyArt / Shutterstock)

What kind of PC do you need?

These days, basically everyone needs a decent PC to get through life, but they come in so many shapes and sizes that it's important to know what you're trying to build before you even get started.

For instance, if you're just going to be using your PC to do daily office work - like web browsing or writing up documents - you don't need to drop thousands of dollars on a fancy gaming rig. Building a PC with something like the AMD Ryzen 5 5600G will get you a quick and responsive PC that will last you years, with enough graphics horsepower to get you through all tasks that most people experience on a day-to-day basis.

However, there are plenty of people that need something with a bit more oomph. Computers are legitimately more powerful now than they've ever been, and there's never been more options to build something that will tear through the best PC games like they were so much paper. But, powerful hardware like the Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 and the AMD Ryzen 9 5900X come at a high price.

Luckily, if you're on more of a budget, you can get something like an Intel Core i5-11600K and an Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 (if you can find one in stock at a decent price, that is), and have an incredible 1080p gaming machine. And, that will be able to get some video editing done on the side too.

Tools of the trade

Although a single phillips screwdriver is all you need to construct a PC, you may want a few more things on hand just in case. For example, needle nose pliers or a simple pair of tweezers may come in handy to place screws into tight places or retrieve them.

Zip ties are useful for tidying up all your PC cables and luckily, you most likely won't have to buy them as they often come included with several different types of computer parts. You'll also need a pair of side cutters (or just scissors) to cut those said zip ties.

You can't go wrong with an anti-static wrist strap, either - though you can get away with not having one. Unless you've been running around on carpet all day, or have cats, you likely aren't holding enough static charge to damage the electronics. Just do yourself a favor and discharge any latent electricity by placing your hand on metal, like your PC case or power supply.

As for your workspace, you're going to want to clear off a good bit of table space, as you'll likely be flipping your PC on its side, feet, back and any which way to install everything.

And, before we forget, it's a good idea to get a monitor, keyboard and mouse set up before you start building, so you have something to plug it into when the building is done. You should also have a power socket and internet connection available.

It's hard to find a modern build with an optical drive these days, so put the Windows 10 installer onto a USB stick ( we'll show you how). If you can't find a handy thumb drive and a laptop, we would cannibalize an older rig for a CD drive, or even just buy one - you can find them online for less than 10 bucks these days.

It's time, to build. Finally.

After spending weeks coming up with a list of PC components, waiting anxiously for them to go on sale, and getting them delivered to your door, it's time. You've got a phillips head screwdriver in hand, and you're ready to go.

Now for the purposes of our PC building guide, we've used these following parts as an example of how to build a complete computer. These components are also exactly what you need to construct an modest - if a little last generation - gaming PC.

Here are some PC component deals to get your PC build started

Step by step
1. Strip down
First thing you'll want to do is strip the case down as far as you can go. Remove every panel that you can, and store them in a safe place (inside the case box is the best bet). We recommend using a bowl (or a magnetic parts tray if you want to be fancy) to hold your screws throughout your PC building process.
2. Fan-tastic
If you've purchased some replacement or extra cooling fans, now is the time to install them where you need them. Try to keep your cooling setup balanced, so there's as much air being drawn in, as is being blown out. In case you're not sure which way the wind will go, the plastic fan guards usually denotes where the air will come through.

Typically you want two fans in the front drawing air in and at least one in the rear blowing air out. You could also screw one or two more optional fans into the roof of the PC case for additional exhaust, if your PC case has mounting points for them.
3. Mobo Installation
Before we get to install the motherboard, you'll want to check on a few things about your PC case. Check for pre-installed motherboard standoffs, ensure the number and arrangement of them conforms to the holes found on your motherboard.

Secondly, see if your PC case has a large CPU cutout or window cut into the back of the motherboard frame. If it doesn't you may want to install any CPU cooler backplates and M.2 solid-state drives at this juncture.

Now that's done, first find your motherboard's rear I/O shield, and push it into the rectangular slot in the back of your PC case. Make sure it's right side up by matching the pattern of cutouts to the arrangement of ports on the back of your motherboard.

Next, lay your motherboard down inside the chassis - carefully lining up its rear ports with the corresponding holes in the I/O shield you just installed - on top of the standoffs installed in your chassis.

Then it's a simply case of securing the motherboard down with the screws that came with your chassis. Make sure you use the right ones here, as you don't want to thread the standoffs, in case you need to remove it at a later date.
4. CPU Installation
Next up, socket your CPU into the motherboard. Here's where things are a little different depending on which family and/or brand you decided to go with.

For Intel mainstream CPUs, slide the spring loaded retention arm out and up, then lift the bracket up leaving the plastic cover in place. Then, gently place your CPU inside the socket, matching the golden triangle located on the bottom left corner of the processor, with the triangle on the socket bracket.

For the next step, you should slide the securing bracket back into its original position so it locks in place underneath the screw, and secure the retention arm back down. During this process the protective plastic cover should pop off, so don't freak out if it comes flying at you. Be sure to stow the cover away in a safe place as it'll protect the motherboard's sensitive pins if you decide to remove the processor from the motherboard.

If you're installing an AMD CPU, fortunately installation is much less daunting. There's no bracket here, simply lift the retention arm in its raised position.

You should then take your processor and match the golden triangle on the corner of the Ryzen processor with the triangle on the socket. Once the pins on the bottom of the processor lineup with the holes on the socket, drop it into place. Give it a little nudge to make sure it's secure, then lower the retention arm back down and lock it into place.

Processor installation done, whew.
5. Memory Matters
Next on the agenda is installing computer memory. Push down the latches at either ends of the DDR4 slots on your motherboard. Then line up the notch on the bottom of the memory with the notch in the slot. After that, you can install the memory by carefully pushing down both sides of the memory into the slot. You should hear a clicking sound as the memory secures into place and the latches click back up.

Make sure you use the farthest and second closest slot from the CPU if you're only using two memory sticks. Complete that and you'll be good to go.
6. Cooler mounting
Here's the last complicate piece in the PC building process, CPU coolers.

Most third-party coolers require installing a backplate, which you may or may not have already done from step three of our PC building guide. Each individual cooler will have its own set of instructions your should follow, but the gist of most installations requires affixing a backplate and threading four pins though back of your motherboard.

From there you'll want to thermal paste if your CPU cooler didn't come with any pre-applied already. Users will want to squeeze out a small blob, around the size of half a pea, onto the middle of the CPU. This will spread out once your cooler is mounted, and provide a sufficient amount of thermal interface material to successfully transfer heat from the processor die to the cooler of your choosing.

For air coolers, you'll want to install most models with the fans unattached. Carefully orient the heatsink onto the pins or threads of the mounting plate and secure in place with any provided thumb screws or regular screws. After that it's simply a case of reattaching the fan to the tower, and plugging the 4-pin PWM fan header into the CPU Fan slot on the motherboard.

Liquid-coolers follow basically the same process, but require more upfront work. You'll probably have to attach fans onto the radiator and installing it into your PC case in advance. Depending on which liquid-cooler you're using, you may also need to plug in a second four-pin cable into a dedicated AIO cooler or optional cooler header on your motherboard.

This is also a good opportunity to plug in the rest of your system fans into any available slots on the board. Or alternatively, if your PC case has an integrated fan controller at the back of the chassis to route all your fans into, then directly onto the motherboard. It'll also need to connect to the motherboard via USB header.
7. Storage installation
Once memory is in, it's time to focus on some non-volatile memory storage, hard drives and solid-state drives. Our NZXT H400i happens to have a small SSD bracket on the front. Installing 2.5-inch drives into these caddies is a cinch, as you can simply slide it into place with the option of fully securing it with four screws.

Most modern PC cases comes with SSD bays of some sort. But if you're case doesn't, the 3.5-inch drive caddies typically reserved for hard drives should have compatible mounting points. No matter what type of storage drive you're installing, ensure the connection ports are facing towards a cable cut-out inside your chassis as it will make routing cables easier.
8. PSU positioning
Now you've got your motherboard, CPU and memory installed you're going to want to install your power supply next. If you've got a modular PSU, figure out what cables you need ahead of time, and plug them into your power supply first.

If your PC case comes with a PSU bracket, remove it ahead of time and attach it to the back of the unit. Next up thread the cables through the PSU slot in the back of the case first, and then slide the PSU into place, securing the bracket back onto the chassis.

Otherwise, on older cases you'll have to slip in the power supply in through the inside of the chassis and push it firmly against the inside wall as you attach it with four screws.

Depending on the design of your case, you'll want to orient the fan towards ventilation areas built into it. For most cases we suggest facing the fan downwards or to the side away from the interior of your PC. This way, your PSU can draw in fresh air and exhaust heat through the back.
9. All the buttons
To get your front I/O power buttons working properly, you need to plug in the correct cables. Fortunately, on our NZXT H400i, this is a single block that plugs directly onto the front I/O headers on the motherboard, make sure you orient it the correct way, then push it into place on the pins.

For everyone else, take the individual pins, and, using the motherboard installation handbook, identify which pins and cables need connecting. Try to do this part gently do, so as to not to bend the pins. It's important to note that any LED lights (HDD and Power), need to be oriented correctly, with the + and - cables installed into the + and - pins on the board.

It's also a good time to plug in your USB 3.0 header, USB 2.0 header, and audio passthrough. Audio is located on the bottom left of most motherboards. It will be labelled, and the pin outs will be different to the USB 2.0 headers. Install your USB 3.0 cables (denoted with a blue-colored end) into any available slots on the board, making sure to lineup the pins with the holes in the USB 3.0 cables.
10. Cable conundruming
Now you can plug in the rest of your power cables.

Identify your 8-pin EPS cable, and slide it up the back of the chassis, through the cable grommet and plug it into the 8 pin power slot at the top of the motherboard. Then, find the bulkier 24-pin cable, slide that through any cable routing recesses on the chassis and plug it into the corresponding 24-pin ATX power port on the motherboard.

Next up, take your SATA power and connect it to any storage drives. If you happen to have a something mounted onto the front of the case, run this SATA power cable through the PSU shroud, appropriate grommets or holes, and into your front mounted 2.5-inch drive. This is a good opportunity to plug in the SATA Data cables between any storage drives and the motherboard as well.

Lastly, you'll want to thread your PCIe power cable through the cutout in the PSU cover or any side grommets/holes, so that it's ready for when you install your GPU.
11. Graphically sound
Finally we have the last piece of the puzzle to slot into place.

First take a look at your motherboard and locate the PCIe slot closest to your processor. From there locate the two PCIe slots next to where you'll want to install your GPU and remove them. In most PC cases, that'll involve undoing two screws on the PCIe slot covers and removing them.

Take your graphics card out of the anti-static bag and line it up with the slots we just opened up. The rear I/O on the GPU should be facing out the back of the chassis. Once the gold contacts on your GPU make are touching the PCIe slot, gently push it into place until you hear a click. Then use the same screws we removed from the PCIe slot cover to secure the GPU into place.

Then it's simply a case of plugging your PCIe power that you routed in with our last step - and we have a fully built PC (mostly).
12. Into BIOS
Now the system's built, don't reattach all your panels just yet. First you'll want to make sure it actually turns on and runs properly.

Take your temporarily built tower over to your pre-setup computer space and plug it into power, a screen, keyboard and mouse too. Power it on, and mash the delete key to get into the BIOS screen. Check your CPU temp, make sure that's operating somewhere around 30-40 degrees C, and ensure that your boot drive is registering correctly.

If everything is showing up, now is also a good time to enable the XMP for Intel or DOCP for AMD to make sure your memory is operating at the correct frequency. Then hit F10, save and exit. Then power off.
13. Tidying up
Now that we're sure the machine is working, disconnect it again and bring it back to your workspace. It's worth doing this because you'll want to reattach all those PC case panels and tidy up any loose cables.

That means using cable ties to bunch together cables as much as you can. Most PC cases come to cable cut-outs to use as tie down points. Where they're aren't any, we usually use thicker cables to help push smaller ones flush against the inside of our computer chassis.
14. Installing Windows
Bring the system back to your computer space, where it'll sit forever - or at least until your next upgrade - as we'll want to install the operating system next.

Most modern rigs lack an optical drive to install your OS, so you'll need to create a USB install on another PC. To do this, download the Windows 10 Media Creation Kit and then install Windows 10 onto an USB stick with at least 8GB of space.

Then, once it's finished, simply plug it into your new system. Go back into your BIOS to tell your system to boot from the USB stick first. From there you can go through the prompts to install the operating system onto your new rig. Don't worry about not having a software key during installation, you can activate Windows 10 once you reach desktop.
15. Desktop maintenance
Once you're finally logged on, head on over to the manufacturer's website, find your motherboard, head to service, and download the correct chipset drivers for your system.

is a nifty tool to get all the programs you want fast without having to worry about installing each one individually is. On the Ninite site, you can select which programs you want, download the installer and let it run its magic. After that, go download and install the correct graphics driver for your card and you'll be all set to sit back and enjoy.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to build a PC: a step-by-step guide to building the best PC

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
It might be hard sourcing PC components right now, but learning how to build a PC is still a fulfilling task, regardless of what the best graphics cards are going for right now. The process actually remains the same - you need to research and choose the components that will make up the you're trying to put together.

# data[].attributes.body
Want to Learn More About Computers? Try Building Your Own PC

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Assembling a computer yourself is a good way to learn how they work.

If you've been beating yourself up about doing nothing productive during our never-ending pandemic, stop. Sometimes doing nothing is exactly what you need. Other times, it's nice to make something with your own hands. That's what this guide is about: how to build a PC from scratch.

It can be daunting for a lot of reasons-it's expensive, it's complex, it can get messy. But I want to be clear: If you can build an Ikea table, bookshelf, bed, or anything that comes in more than one of those deceivingly heavy flat packs, you can build a PC. The tricky part? I can't tell you how to build your PC. Not really. Not unless I know exactly which hardware you're using. I can, however, explain what each component does and what my recommendations are for each category.

Once you've built your shiny new PC, it might be time to check out some other stuff to further accessorize your new partner in crime. Be sure to have a look at our guides for the best gaming keyboards, best gaming mice, best gaming headsets, and best gaming controllers.

Updated April 2022: We've removed some picks that are hard to find, added a section on buying advice, and added more information to each product most affected by shortages.

Special offer for Gear readers: Get a 1-year subscription to WIRED for $5 ($25 off). This includes unlimited access to WIRED. com and our print magazine (if you'd like). Subscriptions help fund the work we do every day.

If you buy something using links in our stories, we may earn a commission. Learn more.

First, Let's Talk Shortages

For several years now we've been in the midst of a PC hardware shortage. First, cryptocurrency miners bought up all the GPUs to farm crypto, then we got hit by a worldwide silicon shortage, and then there was that whole pandemic thing. Point is, it's tough to get all the parts you need to build a PC, it has been for years, and it's likely to continue being tough for the foreseeable future. I can't fix a global logistics crisis, but I can give you some pointers on shopping during one.

When you're shopping for components, make sure you're buying from a reputable vendor. You may think you're buying from a large online store like Amazon, Walmart, or Newegg, but they allow third-party sellers to list products as well. There's usually a little notice that will tell you as much, right underneath the buy button.

If it's shipped and sold from someone who isn't Amazon, Walmart, or Newegg, you're probably going to pay more for the component than its retail price. For instance, our top motherboard pick retails for $130, but as of this writing its listed on Newegg for $205. It's shipped and sold from a third-party retailer, hence the markup. First-party sales (when the product is shipped and sold by the store whose site you're visiting) tend to have better prices that hew closer to the actual manufacturer suggested retail price (MSRP) of the item.

We've tried to stick to first-party sales, but sometimes components are just not available through anyone but a third party. In that case, my advice is don't spend more than 50 percent over the MSRP on any of these components. Give yourself a hard budget and please don't pay double or triple what any of these components are worth.

We've added buying advice to each category most affected by the shortage to speak more specifically to each component's scarcity, but in general just know that building a PC right now is probably going to cost you more than you'd expect.

What Do You Need?

In order to get a list of components together, no matter what your experience level is, you should use PCPartPicker. Not only does it have everything you need to buy, it also lets you build your PC piece by piece right on the website and makes sure all your hardware will play nicely together. It even has a few example builds you can tweak to your liking.

Regardless of what kind of PC you're building ( home office or gaming), the components you need are going to be the same. You'll need a motherboard, a central processing unit (CPU), storage, memory, a power supply, a case, and a monitor. The only thing you might not need if you're mostly using this PC for home-office tasks is a GPU (graphics processing unit), but it's necessary for photo or video editing and gaming. That's a lot of stuff! Here's a little breakdown of what each component does, along with some hardware recommendations.

Every other component plugs into this circuit board. It's the highway they use to communicate and collaborate. They come in different sizes and configurations, and each one looks a little different, but they all fill the same function. Make sure you know which processor you want before you buy a motherboard.

Motherboards come in a couple of flavors, but the most important thing to know is what kind of socket it has. There are basically two: LGA and AM. You'll always see them listed with a number after them, like "LGA1150" or "AM3." The exact numbers after the LGA and AM portions of these socket names will change over time, to indicate which generation of Intel or AMD chips they support, but the current standards as of 2022 (which will work with the latest chips from either maker) are LGA1200 for Intel and AM4 for AMD.

Motherboards also come in a couple of sizes, the most common being ATX (or "full size"). That's what I generally recommend, especially if this is your first build. Your PC case will list which size motherboard it supports, so make sure they match up.

Buying advice: Motherboards are less scarce than the other components on this list. We try to keep this list updated regularly with prices that aren't too much higher than MSRP, but if any of the prices here skyrockets between updates, shop around. Your chances of finding a reasonably priced motherboard are much better than your chances of finding a good price on a GPU.

This is the brain of your computer. It sockets directly into the motherboard, and it's the single most important component of your PC. That doesn't mean it has to be the most expensive (we'll get to that later). If the CPU doesn't mention including thermal paste, get some. Don't eat your CPU. I know it looks tasty, but it's not actually food.

Buying advice: You're going to see the highest markups on your CPU and GPU. But these prices will move around quite a bit, so keep checking back if you can't afford the component you want at the moment.

If you'll be playing games on this PC, you'll need a graphics processing unit (also called a graphics card). This is a specialized processor that's designed and optimized for handling visual data like the graphics in games. It's also used in video and photo editing and other graphics-intensive tasks.

Buying advice: These cards are tough to find in stock (or at a reasonable price) at the moment, so you may have to wait a while. Graphics cards are among the most in-demand PC components right now, and their prices are way higher than they should be. That's why the picks on this list are generally mid- to high-end. If you're going to pay through the nose for a graphics card, make sure it's a good one.

Radeon RX 6800 XT: If you're going all-out, the RX 6800 XT is my top choice right now. It's a beast of a GPU that can handle anything you throw at it. Even Cyberpunk 2077 at full 4K resolution.

This is your PC's walk-in closet. This is where you store all your files, your games, your movies, your documents, your photos, your everything. You can always add more storage later.

Western Digital Black 1TB PCIe Internal SSD: This lightning-fast NVMe drive is a good option for nearly any gaming system. It has incredible read and write speeds of up to 7,000 and 5,300 megabytes per second respectively, making it fast enough to not only store all of your games, but possibly your operating system as well. It's also available in M.2 varieties.

You'll see a lot of the same terms when you're looking at memory and storage, but they're very different. Memory is more like that one table you toss things on to deal with later. It's scratch paper; it's short-term. It's very important, though, because software uses memory to cache (temporarily store) data in a place where it can be retrieved quickly.

Your power supply unit is a little box that keeps the electricity running to every component. It determines how quick and powerful your PC can be. The faster it is, the more power it needs, and you always want to have a little more than you need, just in case. Just like GPUs, PSUs are also in and out of stock right now.

Your case is just what it sounds like. It's a metal box. It might be covered in glass panels and etched aluminum, but inside it's just a big metal box that holds everything together. Make sure you match it up with your motherboard size. For example, if you have an ATX motherboard, you need an ATX (or "full-size") case.

Corsair Obsidian Series ATX Full Tower: There are lots of kinds of cases. Some are super small, others are enormous. And your decision will ultimately come down to the design you like as much as anything else. If you're unsure what to get, this one is great for your first build. Other case manufacturers we like are NZXT, Fractal, Phanteks, Cooler Master, and Lian Li.

MSI Gungnir 100 ATX Mid-Tower Case: This budget-friendly case is a solid option for most people. Be aware that it'll be a tight fit-there's almost no wiggle room for bulky cables or hyperspecific configurations. It looks nicer than you'd think for the money, and the RGB button syncs up your lights with very little effort. The smokey tempered glass allows them to shine through without turning your office into an EDM show.

When you build a PC, you don't automatically have Windows included. You'll have to buy a license from Microsoft or another vendor and make a USB key to install it. Or you can check out the newly released Windows 11. Here's a little more information about what all you get out of the newest version of Windows.

Putting It All Together

The internal layout of every gaming PC is a little different, so we're not going to get too far into the weeds here. Your best bet for specific instructions for your hardware will be referencing your manuals and searching for your components on YouTube. It can be super helpful to actually see a person handle and install your exact hardware, especially when you're stuck and can't quite figure out what the hell your manual is talking about. But here are some general tips for putting all these components together.

First, prep yourself a clean workspace. This can be a dining room table, a cleared-off desk-just any surface big enough for your case to lay flat on its side, with ample room around it for the rest of your components. You'll also need a Phillips-head screwdriver that will fit the screws on your case. When you put these parts together, be sure to discharge any static buildup and work on a nonmetallic surface like a wooden table. Or you could just assemble the motherboard on top of the cardboard box it comes in.

Most of the components you bought are going to come with instruction manuals; keep them handy. We're going to start with the motherboard, so open up the instruction manual to the installation page. It can be pretty intimidating-there's a lot to look at-but think of all this as a big Lego set. Each piece fits into each other piece. For the motherboard, your first job is going to be seating your CPU.

Depending on what kind of CPU you purchased (Intel or AMD), the chip will have either little prongs on one side (don't touch them) or little golden contacts on one side (don't touch them). Seriously, don't touch that side of your chip. Oils from your fingertips can damage the contacts, or you might bend a pin. Do either one and your processor becomes nothing more than an expensive hunk of silicon.

Seating your processor is pretty easy. First, double-check your motherboard's instructions and make sure you've unlocked the processor socket. It'll be a big square with a bunch of little holes (or contacts), with a lever or button beside it. Your motherboard's instructions will say explicitly how to unlock the socket so you can put your processor in without any issues.

Once you've confirmed that it's unlocked and ready, just find which corner of your processor has a little golden triangle and line it up with the same symbol on your motherboard's processor socket. Gently lower the processor into the socket, then gently flip the latch or locking mechanism. You shouldn't have to fight it. If you have to press really hard, double-check that the processor is socketed correctly.

Next, you're going to need your thermal paste. That little tiny plastic syringe of silvery goo is very important for this next step. Now that your processor is seated, take a look at the shiny square of silicon in the center of it. That's where your heat sink is going to sit. Your processor came with a heat sink, and on one side of it, you'll see a copper circle. You're going to be putting the heat sink directly on top of the processor after we apply the thermal paste, with the silicone square and the copper circle lining up perfectly.

Go ahead and carefully squeeze a tiny ball (no bigger than a pea) of thermal paste onto the silicon square on your processor. You'll want it as close to the center as you can get.

Now line up your heat sink with the screws surrounding your processor, and gently lower it into place. You're gonna squish the thermal paste, and the goal here is to create a thin layer covering the back of your processor. It's OK if it oozes a little bit, but if it oozes out and over the edge of the processor, you used too much. Get some isopropyl alcohol, dab it on a lint-free wipe, and wipe the processor and heat sink. Wait till they're thoroughly dry and try again.

If it looks all right, screw your heat sink into place. Flip back to your motherboard instruction book and find the right place near the processor socket to plug in your heat sink's cooling fan. It should be very close to your processor socket. Once you've found it, plug it in-congratulations, you just installed a CPU. This was the hardest part, and it's over. Good job!

Installing Your Storage and Memory

Memory is maybe the easiest thing to install. See those vertical little sockets beside the CPU? Line up your sticks of RAM and slot them in, starting from the left-hand slot. They'll lock into place once you've seated them properly. If you have two sticks of RAM, make sure to skip a slot between them. Your motherboard manual should say which slots to use.

For your hard drive or solid-state drive (SSD), find an empty bay in the front-facing part of your case. Slide your drive in and screw it into place. If you have an M.2 drive (a tiny SSD about the size of a stick of gum), there should be a place on the motherboard where you slot it in directly. Check out your motherboard's manual to see where the M.2 slot is if you can't find it.

Installing Your Motherboard and Power Supply

The rest of this is formulaic. Start by putting your motherboard into your case. Consult your motherboard's instructions, line up the screw holes in the case with the ones on your motherboard, and get to work.

Next, you'll want to install your power supply. There should be a spot for it near the top or bottom of the case, a big square spot that will fit your supply perfectly. If you're having trouble finding it, look at the back of your case: There'll be a big empty square. That's where the power supply goes (and where you'll plug in your PC when you're all done). Once you've found its home, slot it in and screw it into place.

Make sure all the snaky cables coming out of the power supply will reach your motherboard with room to spare. Don't plug in anything yet; we're going to come back to the power supply in a bit.

Installing Your Graphics Card

Your GPU is going to be pretty big. Even a modestly powerful GPU like the GTX 1060 is large compared to your other components. That means how it fits into your case is important. Once you put your GPU in there, space is going to start getting tight.

Flip open your motherboard's instruction book again and look for a PCIe slot. It's going to be a horizontal slot with a little plastic latch beside it, near the middle or bottom of your motherboard. That's where the GPU plugs in. All you need to do is identify the back of your GPU (the side with the HDMI and DisplayPorts), line that up with the back of your case, and push the GPU into the horizontal slot. It should lock into place easily enough; if it doesn't, make sure you're inserting it correctly.

Find another one of those tiny little screws and fasten your GPU to the case. There's a little spot for that on the same piece of metal with the HDMI ports. It should be easy to find.

Now, take a look at the cables coming out of your power supply. There should be a few that look like they could fit into the square (or rectangular) socket on the side of your GPU. It should look like six or eight little holes in a rectangle shape. If you're having trouble, take a look at this video from hardware manufacturer Asus. Some of the specifics will be different, but it's a great look at how to install a GPU.

The motherboard needs to be hooked into all your devices. The power supply unit I used in this build is what's called fully modular, which means that you can select the cables you need and leave the rest off to eliminate clutter. Otherwise, power supplies have a ton of cables, and you'll have to deal with the unused power connections dangling inside your case. You'll need to connect the PSU to the SSD and the motherboard.

You also need to plug the motherboard into your case-the power buttons, audio plugs, and USB ports on the front of your case. There are special headers for each kind of plug scattered around the board, so you'll want to check your manual for the location and function of each grouping of pins. These tiny pins need to be plugged in a certain way, and they're unbelievably minuscule. There's also a hookup for the case's fan-in the case I used there was one header on the motherboard but three fans installed. Then there's the SATA cable for your SSD, which plugs into the motherboard.

This part of your build really depends on the hardware you purchased, so consult the manuals for each component to ensure you've correctly plugged it into your motherboard and the power supply.

Boot It Up and Install Windows

The final stage of your build is a simple one: Hit your power button. If the PC whirs to life, you probably put it together perfectly! If it doesn't, don't despair. There are a lot of potential problems that could cause a PC to fail to boot up for the first time. This video from Kingston goes over some pitfalls that might cause you some headaches, so if you're not able to boot your PC, give it a watch and retrace your steps.

There's also a chance you could have received faulty components. This video goes over some tips on how to check your parts. In general, if you're having trouble with a specific component, YouTube is your friend. There are tons of helpful PC-building tutorials.

If it started up just fine, the next step is super easy: Turn it off. Remember that Windows flash drive you made earlier? Plug it into the PC and boot it up again. If you set it up right, your computer should just do its thing and get started installing Windows. If not, you might need to open your BIOS (check your motherboard's manual for how to do that) and set the USB drive to be a "boot device" first. Here's a brief rundown of that process (start at step 3).

You Did It!

Congratulations on building your first PC. It's a bit of a pain, but it's a great way to spend an afternoon. Or a couple of days, depending on how many unforeseen headaches you run into. Seeing as the pandemic hasn't totally gone away, you can use your new PC to help you spend all those extra indoor hours productively (or just grinding out loot in Warframe).

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Assembling a computer yourself is a good way to learn how they work. If you've been beating yourself up about doing nothing productive during our never-ending pandemic, stop. Sometimes doing nothing is exactly what you need. Other times, it's nice to make something with your own hands.

# data[].attributes.body
Learn How to Build a Computer

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Building a computer is fun, affordable, and empowering. It's fun being able to choose all of the parts that will go into your machine, it's cheaper than buying a PC from a manufacturer like Dell or HP, and it's just so darn cool to DIY!

This course is for anyone that has ever wanted to build their own computer.

For this course, I purchased all the parts I needed for a new computer. I show you each part, tell you about the features I thought were important, describe other features you may want to look for, demonstrate how to build the entire computer, and then install the necessary operating system and software.
You will go from having no idea what's inside a computer to having a full working computer after this course.
You will be able to do the following:

Figure out your computer's main purpose

Determine which parts you need to buy

Compare features and benefits of different makes and models of parts

Buy your computer parts from the most reliable sources

Put together all of the parts that make up your PC

Install a Windows operating system

Install anti-virus software

Test your built computer is running at optimal temperatures

Troubleshoot your build in case something didn't go right on the first try

FAQ:
What operating system do you demonstrate how to install?
Windows 7. I am adding a video on how to install Windows 8 and Linux as well.

How much do the parts cost?
It depends on what you want to do with your new PC. You can spend anywhere from $300 to $3000 on your build. The first thing to do is to identify the purpose of your computer. Are you going to use it for gaming or video editing, or just basic website browsing and media playback? The more performance your machine is, the more it will cost. We've listed out the following sample configurations in the course:

How long will I have access to the videos?
Forever :) Your access won't expire</strong>

Do you offer a money-back guarantee?
Yes, we have a 30-day money-back guarantee. If you're unhappy for any reason we'll refund 100% of your investment. Of course, if there is anything we can do to help you, we'd love the opportunity to do so first.</strong>

Can I install Mac OS on a computer I build?
Yes, the method of actually putting together the computer hardware is independent of which operating system you're installing. However, Mac OS will only work with a very limited set of hardware, so building a "Hackintosh" is outside the scope of this course.

Anyone who wants to build a computer

Anyone who wants to save money on the cost of a new computer

Anyone who wants to develop a new skill

No previous experience, knowledge, or training needed

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Building a computer is fun, affordable, and empowering. It's fun being able to choose all of the parts that will go into your machine, it's cheaper than buying a PC from a manufacturer like Dell or HP, and it's just so darn cool to DIY!

# data[].attributes.body
Things to Consider When Buying a Computer

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Buying a computer is a big investment, so you want to get it right. This guide will help you understand what to look for when investing in computers for your nonprofit or library.

Buying a computer is a big investment. And with so many different options available, it can be hard to figure out how to meet the technical needs of your nonprofit or library and still stay within your budget.

This guide will help you understand the questions to ask when shopping for a computer. It will also provide a quick reference checklist with definitions of some basic technology terms (not too many!), as well as the minimum standards we recommend for computers.

Things to Consider When Buying a Computer

1. Do You Need a New Computer?

It's possible some basic maintenance tasks or a simple hardware upgrade can boost performance and give your old computer new life.

2. How Will You Be Using the Computer?

If you do need a new computer, one of the most important things to consider is how you will actually use it.

A technology plan, technology budget, and technology strategy are all helpful tools to make sure you understand your current and future computing needs. See TechSoup'sBusiness and Technology Planning section for resources to help you plan effectively.

What kind of work will your staff be doing? Basic office tasks, like creating documents and spreadsheets, checking email, and using the Internet? Or heavy-duty work with video, audio, or images? Audiovisual work tends to be resource-intensive and will require a more robust computer.

Will your staff be traveling, or only using the computer in the office?

How does the computer fit in with your existing technology?

What operating systems do you use? Operating systems, like Windows, use up a lot of your computer's resources. If you barely meet the minimum hardware standards for using your operating system, you may not have the computing resources to do a lot of other tasks at the same time (multitask).

What software do you use? Do you have software that only works with a certain type of computer or only runs on a particular operating system?

32-bit and 64-bit? The key thing to know is that hardware and software come in 32-bit and 64-bit versions. If your computer has a 32-bit operating system or hardware, you cannot run 64-bit software on it.

What are your future plans? Are you planning to upgrade your operating system or add a new kind of software? Are you planning to do different kinds of tasks in the next couple of years?

3. Mac or PC?

The choice between Mac and PC often comes down to personal preference. Both types of computers have their merits. Macs and PCs use the same kinds of internal processors, so they are equally powerful. The main difference between Macs and other computers is the operating system they use: Macs run Mac OS X, and PCs run Windows.

A few things to keep in mind:

Macintosh computers are usually more expensive off the shelf than a similar PC. However, some argue that the long-term cost for a PC is actually higher, due to additional software and maintenance costs.

There is some software that will only run on Windows. Make sure the software you depend on is compatible with your new computer's operating system.

The more similar your computers are, the easier your technology will be to manage. If you have different types of computers, running different operating systems and different software, troubleshooting and maintenance become much more complicated. Consider whether you already have a Mac- or PC-centric office and whether or not it's worth switching some or all computers.

4. New, Used, or Refurbished?

If you plan to use the computer for basic office tasks like word processing, email, and web browsing, you probably don't need a top-of-the-line or brand new computer. A used or refurbished computer may be just fine. Used and refurbished computers are usually much less expensive than new computers. They're also a greener option, since you're extending the life of an old computer, rather than buying a brand-new one.

A refurbished computer may be a better option than a used or donated one. Refurbished computers are older machines that have been carefully inspected and updated by professionals. If you get your refurbished computer from an authorized professional refurbisher (and you always should), you will know it is in good working condition. Refurbished computers also often have a warranty of some kind. Read more about refurbished computers available to eligible organizations through TechSoup's Refurbished Computer Initiative.

There are some additional things you need to think about when buying refurbished equipment:

Fail and return rates. Check the refurbisher's fail and return rates.

Warranty. You probably won't get a three-year warranty for a refurbished computer, but a three-month warranty is pretty standard. This should cover any out-of-the box problems.

Peripherals, software, and documentation. Make sure you know what is included with your computer. Refurbished computers, for example, rarely come bundled with a monitor.

If you are buying a used (rather than refurbished) computer, or accepting a donated one, make sure a knowledgeable person inspects the computer thoroughly first. This will help ensure the computer is functioning properly and that it will meet your needs. Remember that as alluring as a free or very cheap computer might seem, an old one in poor condition can actually be more trouble than it is worth. Learn more about how to avoid receiving time-wasting donated hardware in How to Accept (or Refuse!) Donated Equipment.

5. Laptop, Desktop, or Tablet?

When deciding whether a laptop, desktop, or tablet (hand-held) computer will best meet your needs, the key things to consider are:

Price. Laptops are usually more expensive than an equally powerful desktop computer, even if you factor in the cost of a monitor for your desktop. Parts and repairs are usually more expensive for laptops as well.

Travel. If you will only be using the computer in the office, a laptop probably isn't worth the added cost.

Upgrade, repair, and maintenance. Especially if you're planning to do this yourself, keep in mind that fixing or upgrading a laptop computer is usually much more complicated than it is for a desktop computer.

Size or "form factor." Desktop computers can be the traditional bulky tower, compact models that are smaller than a loaf of bread, or an all-in-one model (where the computer and the monitor are all one piece). Laptops come in different sizes, too: from tiny subnotebooks with miniature keyboards and 10-inch screens to ultra-thin or ultra-portable models to giant models with 17+-inch screens that don't even need a separate monitor. A few things to consider:

If you will be traveling a lot, size and weight are important considerations for laptops.

Smaller models are often more costly than a comparably equipped standard size model.

There is often a trade-off between small size and computing power. Inexpensive netbooks, for example, may not be powerful enough to serve as your main computer.

Tablets (as handy as they can be and as popular as they are) aren't suitable for heavy use for office productivity tasks. But they're great for web surfing, checking email, and reading documents on-the-go.

For more information, Consumer Reports has a really nice, clear discussion of the pros and cons of laptops, desktops, and tablet computers, in varying sizes.

6. Get to Know Your Technology

There are a few key things you should understand when you're making a decision about which computer to buy. We'll define them and provide the minimum standards you should be looking for to support performing basic office tasks.

Component

Definition

Key Consideration

Minimum Standard

This is your computer's brain, and its function - as you might imagine - is to process information.

Performance, which is based mostly on

Dual-core processor, with mid-range clock speed (2.6 GHz)

Number of cores (single, dual, quad, and so on).

Processor speed or "clock speed," which is measured in gigahertz (GHz).

Usually, a faster processor means a faster computer.

RAM is used to temporarily store information while your computer is running. More memory allows your computer to run more quickly, up to a point.*

Amount of memory, which is measured in megabytes (MB) and gigabytes (GB). There are 1,024 megabytes in a gigabyte.

Confusingly, memory is not the same thing as storage (see below for additional information). Storage is what allows you to keep files and software stored long-term, while memory is what your computer uses short-term to perform its basic functions.

*32-bit operating systems can't use more than 4 GB of RAM, so if you have a 32-bit OS, you don't need more than 4 GB of RAM.

The amount of information (files, data, software, photos, video, and so on) your computer can store.

Amount of storage, usually measured in GB.

See Hard Drive, below

The hard drive is where most of the information on your computer is stored.

Disk size: the amount of storage space on the disk.

250 GB storage capacity

There are two main types of drives:

A traditional drive is a spinning disk attached to a platter. Because it has these rapidly moving parts, a hard drive is susceptible to mechanical failure. For example, when your drive "crashes," it's because the spinning disk literally crashes into the platter underneath it.

A solid-state drive does not have moving parts and therefore is less likely to have mechanical problems. Solid-state drives are also faster and quieter than traditional drives, but they are also significantly more expensive.

Note: an external hard drive is basically the same thing as an internal drive. An external drive just has a case surrounding it and a cable to connect it to your computer.

How your computer connects to the Internet or networked devices.

Wired and wireless connection capability.

Ethernet port or adapter

A wireless card or adapter

An Ethernet port lets you plug your computer into a router for "wired" access.

A wireless adapter or wireless card enables your computer to connect to the Internet and other devices wirelessly.

Bluetooth is a technology that allows your computer to wirelessly connect to other devices (but it doesn't allow your computer to connect directly to the Internet).

*Some laptop models, such as the MacBook Air, do not come with a built-in Ethernet port.

Device ports: how your computer connects to other devices, like a keyboard, mouse, printer, digital camera, or external hard drive. Different devices use different cables to connect to different kinds of ports. The most common ports and cables are

What devices you will connect to your computer.

Device ports: Several USB 2.0 ports

Audio and Video Ports: VGA port, HDMI

USB (Universal Serial Bus) - the current standard is USB 2.0, which provides a faster connection than the older USB 1.1 standard.

Firewire (also known as IEEE 1394, iLink) provides an even faster connection for high-speed data transfer.

Audio and video ports: How your computer connects to speakers and external displays, like a monitor or television screen. There are different kinds of outputs, including

VGA (analog) output. This is included on almost all desktops.

DVI (digital visual interface). This carries only video, not audio.

HDMI (high-definition multimedia interface). This carries both audio and video. Mini HDMI ports are often used on portable devices.

Like HDMI, DisplayPort and Mini DisplayPort carry both audio and video.

The graphics card or chip is what allows your computer to process and display visual information (text, images, video, and basically everything you see on your computer screen).

Amount of system memory (RAM), and tasks you are performing

Integrated graphics: fine for most everyday office functions.

Dedicated graphics card: only needed if you're planning to work with a lot of digital media.

If you have at least 2 GB of RAM, integrated graphics should be sufficient in most cases.

If you work with a lot of digital video, you will probably need more RAM, a dedicated graphics card, or both.

There are two main types of graphics processors.

Integrated or on-board graphics cards are built into your computer, and they share your computer system's main memory.

A dedicated graphics card has its own, separate memory.

Optical drives let you read and record (or write) to CDs, DVDs, and Blu-rays. A "burner" or "recorder," usually labeled "RW," allows you to record or write information to discs.

What media you are using (CD, DVD, and so on)

What devices can and need to read that data

Functioning DVD-ROM/CD-RW device

Most drives are labeled with the type of discs they are compatible with, as well as whether they can record or write to a disc or only play or read it.

Devices labeled "ROM" can only play discs; they cannot write to them.

Devices labeled "RW" allow you to write information to discs.

For example, a DVD-ROM/CD-RW can play DVDs and can both play and record to CDs.

Electronic equipment connected by cable (or wireless integration) to your computer's CPU.

For monitors, the key considerations are:

Desktop monitor: 15" monitor (measured diagonally), 1024x768 screen resolution

Laptop screen: size will depend on organizational needs; 1024x768 screen resolution

Fully functioning keyboards and pointing devices

Screen size.

Display resolution is based on the number of pixels (the little dots that make up the image you see on-screen) that can be displayed; more pixels means a sharper display.

Monitor or screen

Keyboard

Pointing devices (mice, trackballs, touchpads)

Printers, scanners, and other optional devices

Battery and Power Consumption

When not plugged in to an outlet, laptops use a rechargeable battery for power.

Battery life: how long the battery retains power after charging

No specific recommendation

Some laptops can have an extended battery added. This makes the laptop bigger and heavier, but significantly extends battery life.

Some laptops have batteries that cannot be removed, which makes them more costly to replace when the battery wears out.

Desktops, laptops, and tablets come in different sizes.

Unless you will be traveling a lot, size is not usually a major factor when choosing a computer.

No specific recommendation

Some desktop terms you may hear:

Full-size: these computers are encased in a standard (sometimes bulky) "tower" case.

Compact: smaller than full-size towers (sometimes called "minitowers").

All-in-one: the computer and the monitor are all one piece.

Laptop terminology:

While we use the term "laptop" in this guide, "notebook" means the same thing.

A subnotebook is a lightweight laptop computer. Macbook Airs and Intel Ultrabooks are in this category.

7. Do Your Research

The following are good places to start your research.

Consumer Reports provides an easy-to-understand, comprehensive computer buying guide and product reviews.

CNET andPC Magazine have more detailed technical buying guides, as well as computer reviews for laptops and desktops. Just go to their site and search for "computer buying guide," "laptop buying guide," or "desktop buying guide."

Learn about 32-bit vs. 64-bit computers with TechSoup's article: Do I Need the 32-bit or the 64-bit Version?

When doing your research, keep your organization's needs, its budget, and the minimum requirements in mind, and ask yourself:

Will this product meet your needs?

What do you know about the company that makes the computer? Do they have a good reputation? What about the particular computer you're looking at?

What kind of warranty do you get, and how long does it last?

How good is the company's technical support, and how long can you use it?

What other hardware comes bundled with the computer? A monitor, keyboard, mouse, cables?

What software comes with the computer?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Investing in Computers? 7 Questions to Consider

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Buying a computer is a big investment, so you want to get it right. This guide will help you understand what to look for when investing in computers for your nonprofit or library. Buying a computer is a big investment.

# data[].attributes.body
Top 10 things to consider when buying computer.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Top 10 things to consider when buying computer.
When entering into the world of computers it can get very easy to get confused and loose sight of your goals and sometimes your budget. Here's the top 10 things to consider;
1. Most importantly, know what you want to use it for and set aside a realistic budget.
Your budget
The first thing that most of us are constrained to is budget so this is the first thing you should consider. We always want the best but we need to be grounded on what we can afford. So Get a budget and stick to it.

Laptop or Desktop?
The next thing you should be looking at is your requirements. Do you need a laptop or desktop? What is the machine going to be used for? Once you have done this go back to number one and see if these are compatible often they are not first time round. You either need to adjust your budget or adjust your goals to make them more compatible with each other.

Now its time to look at the computer.
There are many things to consider when actually buying the computer, here I will list the most important so you can choose wisely.

2. The Processor
This is the most important factor when choosing a computer nowadays and there are many factors in processor choice the main thing is that in my opinion Intel are at the moment making the best chips and their core 2 duo range is the best so go for one in this family and you will be ok.

3. RAM (Computer Memory)
Essentially, the more rams you have, the more browsers and applications you can open. 4Gb is the most basic nowadays. 8GB is the sweet spot for most people. If you are a gamer, photo or video editor, or planning to do CAD/CAM work, you need at least 16GB of Ram. Make sure you get windows vista 64bit as your operating system.

6. Hard Drive
This is the next piece you should tackle. Computers today usually come with 250GB and 750GB of space in the hard drive. As more people are storing their information online on cloud storage, you may want to rethink of buying a huge hard drive space.

Google provides the 1st 15GB of free & monthly fee of $1.99 for 100GB and $9.99 for 1 terabyte.

Mega provides free 50GB

pCloud provides free 10GB

MediaFire provides 10GB

Dropbox provides 2GB

Where to get free cloud storage;

7. Graphics
Now all computers come with some form of graphics built in. But my recommendation is to go with something a little better possibly from NVIDIA or AMD. They make your computer resolution better. AMD cards are good for mining while NVidia is good for Adobe programs.

8. Computer Software
Most computers comes with microsoft software. The latest is Windows 10.

9. Anti-Virus Software
The last thing to do with the actual computer is a good virus and spy ware package. Don't be under any illusion this is possibly the most important part of protecting your computer. It will get attacked at some point be prepared when it does.

10. Your Computer Lifeline, Internet
Finally the internet, get a good internet provider broadband at least. No computer is complete without a good internet.

I hope this list is helpful in helping you make vital decisions when buying your new computer.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Top Ten Things to Consider When Buying a Computer

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Top 10 things to consider when buying computer. When entering into the world of computers it can get very easy to get confused and loose sight of your goals and sometimes your budget. Here's the top 10 things to consider; 1. Most importantly, know what you want to use it for and set aside a realistic budget.

# data[].attributes.body
9 Key Things to Know Before You Buy a New Computer

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Buying a computer is no easy task, and with the cost of many of the machines out on the market today, you want to make sure you're making the right purchase so you don't blow your money on something that stops meeting your demands within a year. Not all machines are created equal, and unless you're pretty familiar with computer hardware, you might have a hard time determining just how unequal they are. Of course, not all computer users' needs are equal, so you might not need certain things included in a computer, especially not if those features are pushing up the price.

This guide should help you get a better understanding of what all the components of the computer will mean for you and make it easier to decide what you want, need, and which elements to prioritize. That way, you'll be better equipped to get the right computer for you, and to avoid spending any more money than you must.

1. Desktop or laptop?

This is probably one of the simplest choices to make, and one that can have a big impact on the overall cost of your computer, including expenses that might not come right at the time of the purchase. In general, if a laptop and desktop are boasting all of the same performance specs, the desktop will be cheaper. It might not make sense, since it's a bigger piece of hardware, but the ability to cram a lot of components into a small space and the need for a battery is what ups the price of the laptop - notice the premium paid for Apple's thinner devices.

If you plan on having a steady workstation and don't need to run around with your for-all-purposes device, consider getting a desktop and saving yourself some money, or spending what your budget allows and getting a computer with higher specs. An added benefit of a desktop is that it's easier to keep cool, since there is more room for powerful fans, which will help the machine have a longer lifetime and maintain optimum performance levels. Additionally, it's easier to change out parts and upgrade components in a desktop, which will keep your machine from falling behind the constantly increasing demands of the digital world.

If you often need your computer on the go, the choice is simple: laptop. If your need for portability is only occasional and you don't need much more than a browser or word processor, you may be able to find a cheap tablet or netbook to do the job, and could potentially afford it with the money you save by getting a desktop as your primary computer. Keep in mind that you'll still have to buy a monitor if one doesn't come as a bundle with the desktop.

(Note on laptop screens: If you're planning to use your laptop for mostly work, consider a matte screen, which will have less glare and be easier on the eyes. If your laptop will be a media device, a normal glossy LCD screen should do the job.)

2. Know the processor and what it means

The simplest way to explain the processor is that it's the brain of the machine. If you want a fast computer that boots up programs in a flash, completes tasks as soon as you start them, and doesn't keep you waiting, then you want the strongest processor available - and who doesn't? You just have to know what you're looking at when you see a processor's details.

Basic: the short and simple of processors is in the number of cores and the speed (labeled in GHz or Gigahertz) of the processor. The speed of the chip will tell you how much data it can process in how much time, so the bigger the number, the better. The number of cores functions as a multiplier, as the processor is actually a stack of cores that each run at the listed speed (e.g. a single-core 2GHz processor is a lot slower than a four-core 2GHz processor).

Multiple cores can also help with multi-tasking, as each can be working on different tasks. If you don't use a lot of programs at the same time, you may be content with just one or two cores and don't need to fork out the extra cash to snag a few more. Make sure to ask how many cores are on the chip and what the clock speed is. Two computers might both say they have an Intel i5 chip, but the number of models that go into the group are many, and their speeds and core counts can be leagues apart.

Advanced: If you want to get into really nitty-gritty bits of the processor, check out the benchmark tests at CPUBenchmark. You can compare a number of different CPUs to see if you're getting the best one, and even see if you're getting the best for your money. Also, check out the L1, L2, and L3 cache sizes - these are the closest and fastest memory spaces to the CPU and the bigger they are, the better. You can also see how many threads the core has - again, the more, the merrier.

3. RAM isn't just a type of goat

Just as the number of processor cores in a computer affects its speed and ability to multitask, the amount of Random Access Memory, or RAM, in a computer can affect just how much multitasking it can handle and how fast it will be. RAM is basically a small, extra-fast form of memory (like L1, L2, or L3 cache, but bigger and slower).

Basic: Nowadays most RAM is measured in gigabytes, and as is often the case, the more, the merrier. By having more RAM, your computer is able to keep more data close at hand, rather than having to go digging around through the slower hard drive for the information it needs. Of course, because RAM is smaller, there is only so much room for data. That's why it's useful to have more RAM if you want to keep multiple tasks going at the same time, and to be able to jump between them relatively quickly. If you're also guilty of having too many web browser windows open at the same time, more RAM will make that a lot easier.

Advanced: There is, of course, a bit more to RAM than just the size of it. If you check out the specifics of the RAM in a computer and see that it's DDR2-800, you can get a quick sense that this is a faster memory than one labeled DDR2-400, as that last number signifies how many millions of data transfers the RAM can make each second. RAM also has clock speeds, similar to processors, and the faster, the better. However, that speed is limited to the speed of your computer's motherboard, so if you're buying RAM separately from your computer, figure out the speed of your motherboard and don't buy RAM that's any faster - as it will probably cost you more for no reason - and don't buy RAM any slower - as it will force your motherboard to run at the slower speed. One final number you can note is in the module name, where you may see something like PC3-8500, which indicates that the memory can transfer around 8,500MB per second - once again, the bigger, the better.

4. Hard drives aren't hard choices

Every computer needs data storage, and though that is something RAM does, the majority of it will go onto your hard drive. There are typically a few different options you'll need to consider in the search for a hard drive, but what it really comes down to is how you plan to use your computer.

Basic: If you plan to just have your computer and no peripherals, you may want to opt for the biggest hard drive you can (measured in gigabytes, or terabytes for extra large drives), since all of your files and programs will be stored on the computer. If you don't plan to have many applications on your computer, and won't store media on it, then you can opt for a smaller hard drive and save yourself some money. If you can handle a small hard drive but want to it be extra fast and you have the cash, consider going for a solid-state drive, or flash hard drive.

Advanced: The size of your drive is one thing. If it's a disk drive, the spin speed is another. Naturally, the faster your hard drive disk is spinning, the quicker information can be gathered from it. So, between a 5400rpm drive and a 7200rpm drive, the second would be faster. If you can handle having only a few larger programs installed on your computer at a time, and plan to keep everything else stored on an external device, you can probably get a quick device with a solid-state drive to keep the computer zippy at all times, and still manage to stream high-quality media through a USB connection - some applications may even be able to run from an external hard drive. You'll also want to pay attention to data transfer bandwidth. The higher, the better.

5. Check your peripherals

The peripherals on your computer are going to be pretty specific to your needs, so you'll need to think about whether you'll need them, and just how many of them you want. You may want ten USB ports but not have a care in the world about having a DVD drive. On the other hand, you may do everything online and just want as few holes in your machine as possible for soda to spill into and frazzle the circuitry.

USB: There is, thankfully, a standard that most computer peripherals opt to use, and it can be for anything from mouses and keyboards to hard drives and monitors - heck, you can even plug a guitar in via USB if you've found the right cord. A modern version of USB, called USB 3.0, is faster than its predecessors, but there's an even newer version of USB, called USB Type-C, which offers gigabits of bandwidth and the ability to handle enough current to power a laptop. While USB Type-C will eventually become the single technology that you'll use to connect all your devices, and is a good thing to have on a new machine, you'll need to avoid off-brand cables that can fry your brand-new computer.

If you plan to transfer a lot of data, make sure you have a fast USB port- or a fast wireless network. An alternative for some major externals (like CD drives and hard drives) is to get a computer with an eSATA port, which will let you plug in those peripherals on the fly with high data transfer rates.

HDMI: If you're going to use your machine for entertainment, you'll probably want an HDMI output. This will allow you to connect it to most modern televisions for a high-quality visual display, and it will also run the audio out if you're planning to use the TV for sound.

SD slot: If you work a lot with photography, an SD slot can be a handy way to get the files from your camera over to your computer. For computers with small hard drives, an SD card can also function as a small, out-of-the-way addition to the computer's overall memory. For the slightly more savvy users, SD cards can even be used to speed up the system.

Wi-Fi: if you plan to connect to a lot of networks a lot of places and want to do it wirelessly, you're probably best off getting a built-in Wi-Fi receiver rather than working with some sort of external Wi-Fi device. If you're running a desktop computer, you can probably get away with running an ethernet cable straight into the computer without being constantly annoyed by the need for a wire to get internet.

Bluetooth: Just like Wi-Fi, you can get a built-in Bluetooth receiver with your computer, and that may be a smart move if you want to be a true wireless warrior. Whether it's for sending audio to headphones or to a 7.1 channel surround sound set up that will keep your neighbors on their toes, Bluetooth is a handy way to make those connections easy and tangle-free. It may be worth it for these types of uses, otherwise, you can probably save yourself a few bucks by not seeking it out.

6. Mac OS, Windows, and Linux, oh my!

The short and simple of it is that you should probably stick with what you're familiar with, as it can be hard to adjust to a new operating system unless you're ready to put in the work. If you know what Linux is, you probably don't need to read this section. If you don't know what Linux is, you almost definitely don't want it.

If you want an easy-to-use system that keeps most things basic for you, check out Mac. If you like a little bit more control of your computer's nitty-gritty, you'll probably have an easier time getting to do that on Windows. If you're comfortable with an operating system, stay with it. However, it's worth noting that not all software is available for every operating system; so, if you absolutely need Final Cut for that feature film you're shooting on the weekend, don't buy a Windows computer expecting it to run Mac-only software.

7. There's more to graphics than a sticker on your computer

Lately, computer makers have been tagging stickers on their computers to boast about the AMD or NVIDIA graphics cards they have included in their machines. Unfortunately, those mean thousands of different things, and it's pretty hard to tell just what.

Basic: If you just want to know whether the card in the computer on the left is better than the one in the computer on the right, you can do a quick search on PassMark's site for the graphics components in each. Some buzz words to be aware of are "integrated" and "dedicated." The former is built into the computer's processor and relies on the computer's memory - typically this is a lower performance graphics component. A dedicated graphics card will include its own processor and memory, and will tend to be higher-performing - though a very old card might not best modern integrated graphics.

Advanced: If you're looking into the specifics of graphics processors, you will have to think of them like their own pair of a processor and RAM. This is another case of the more, the merrier. Higher speed, higher capacity RAM in the graphics card will let it handle a more intense graphic load and do it quicker. This will allow for better, more fluid visuals. The card's processor speed will be similarly important and can be looked at much the same as a computer's processor. You can dig into the details and see how many shaders it has and what its core speed is, but in the end, it will probably be most valuable to check out a benchmark score that has evaluated its actual performance.

8. Oh, so you want to get into PC gaming?

To play the latest games with the graphics on high (or ultra) and keep a high frame-rate, you'll be needing to look into a truly high-performance machine. Modern games take up a lot of space, so a big hard drive is a must if you plan on having more than one game installed at a time - you'll want it to be a fast drive, too. Running those games also takes a lot of processing power, so a heavy-hitting processor will be important. You can do without too many cores in your processor if each is extra-fast, but if you're planning to play your games and keep other programs open in the background, consider bumping up the core count.

Integrated graphics? Forget about it. Unless you want to sputter out low-quality visuals on the newest games, you'll need a dedicated graphics card, and a good one at that. You can probably get by with something in the mid-range of graphics cards, but a high-end card is your best bet. Be sure to get plenty of VRAM on that card. When it comes down to making your choice, you'll still probably be best consulting the benchmarks mentioned on the last page.

Thinking about anything other than Windows? Reconsider. Some games are made available for Mac and Linux, but there will be a great number of games unavailable to you if you aren't running Windows - though there is the tricky option of dual-booting.

Thinking about a laptop? Reconsider again. As mentioned in the beginning, there is a premium to be paid for cramming high-end hardware into an extra small box, and a PC gaming rig requires a lot of high-end hardware. There are plenty of quality gaming laptops out there, but in most instances, they will be more expensive than an equal desktop. Then there's the problem of overheating, which a laptop will be much more prone to do. An added benefit of going with a desktop is that you will be able to swap out components or add more when the games' demands start to trump your computer - upgrading to a new graphics card is much easier in a desktop, and in some cases a second graphics card can be added to share the load. With a little careful shopping, you might be able to grab a gaming rig and a cheap netbook for the same price you would have paid for a gaming laptop.

9. Great, now how do we buy it?

One of the most important things to do when buying a new computer - as with any expensive purchase - is to be very patient. Technology evolves fast, and if you buy a new computer today, you might not have noticed a newer one was set for release tomorrow - and would have likely cost the same as the one you just bought, or made yours less expensive to buy. You could get into a logical loop that has you waiting indefinitely, but choosing the best time to pounce is key.

Check refresh cycles for products. If you know 'Computer Maker A' comes out with a new model around the same time every year, expect to get a discount on an old model just before a new one comes out, or wait until the new one is out so that you have the latest technology.

It can also be useful to get friendly with the computer maker's website, as they often allow you to customize a computer rig with the components you want. On top of it all, you're much more likely to stumble across an incredible sale if you shop regularly for a good stretch of time instead of just spending the better part of a day to make your pick and purchase it then and there. Also, don't be afraid to spend a few more bucks to nudge up your computer's specs - this can be helpful down the road, as it will ensure your computer can handle the more intensive tasks that will only start to show up months and years down the line. If you make the cheapest purchase, you might be looking at buying another new computer much sooner than you would otherwise.

One last tidbit: Go ahead and ask a salesperson to give you a deal. Maybe they won't bump down the price of the computer, but if you're going to need a mouse, a keyboard, a monitor, or any other device to go with your computer, see if they will cut off sales tax or give you some other discount for purchasing the items together. You will often be pleasantly surprised.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
9 Key Things to Know Before You Buy a New Computer

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Buying a computer is no easy task, and with the cost of many of the machines out on the market today, you want to make sure you're making the right purchase so you don't blow your money on something that stops meeting your demands within a year.

# data[].attributes.body
Knowing what you are wanting in a new computer

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Are you in the market for a new computer? With all the geeky jargon and specs being thrown around, it can be quite confusing. Nowadays, there are many reasonably priced budget laptops on the market.

With the power of modern hardware, they can even provide a decent computing experience without completely draining your wallet. The trick is in finding the right balance between cost and your needs.

Choosing the right computer can be challenging, but we're here to help you. Here are the most important specs and details you need to keep your eye on when making a computer purchase.

RAM

RAM is short for Random Access Memory. Not to be confused with storage, RAM is where active data from your applications and system processes are stored. Think of RAM as the temporary canvas or scratchpad where a computer does its real-time calculations and operations.

With today's memory-hungry applications and web browsers, computers need more RAM than ever before. If you tend to use multiple open apps at the same time, then the more RAM your computer has, the better.

With enough RAM, you can run more applications simultaneously and have more open browser tabs before your computer bogs down.

Although Windows 10 requires a minimum of 1GB on 32-bit and 2GB on 64-bit (macOS requires 2GB minimum), that's not nearly enough for a smooth experience. If you're shopping around for a new computer, always go for at least 8GB of RAM.

If you're planning on multitasking and doing more on your computer than everyday tasks, shoot for at least 16GB.

Processor

Processors keep getting more efficient and powerful with each yearly upgrade, but Intel always has easily recognizable performance tiers to choose from, depending on your needs.

As usual, Intel's entry-level Core i3 chips are the cheapest but least powerful processors available. If you're looking for a sub-$500 computer that will do basic computing tasks, then the Core i3 line should be ample enough.

The mid-range Core i5 chips are suitable for people who want a good balance between performance and cost. If you're on a budget but you still need ample speed for power usage, shoot for a computer with an i5 chip, at least.

Computers with Core i7 and i9 chips are more expensive, but professionals who don't have the time for loading and rendering screens will appreciate the power that these processors bring to the table. If money is no object and you're looking for the absolute best computer you can buy, don't settle for anything less than a Core i7 chip.

Also, keep in mind that the latest generation chips are typically more powerful and efficient than their predecessors. For example, Intel's current 8th generation chips have at least four cores so they're faster (but less power-hungry) than their equivalent 7th generation counterparts.

Storage

Currently, there are two types of computer storage types to choose from: HDD (hard disk drive) and SSD (solid state drive).

HDDs still use rapidly spinning magnetic disks called "platters" to store information while SSDs use flash memory (similar to what smartphones and tablets use).

Computers with SSDs are more expensive but their read and write rates are much faster than computers with conventional HDDs. SSDs don't have moving parts too so they're lighter, cooler, quieter, more efficient and are harder to damage than a conventional drive.

With these advantages, always choose a computer with an SSD over one with a conventional hard drive. They might be more expensive but their speed and efficiency are definitely worth the difference.

Some computers combine the best of both worlds with hybrid drives. These combine a small SSD and a large HDD in a single package. While hybrids aren't as fast as a true SSD, they are less expensive and hold more. Of course, as SSD prices continue to drop and sizes increase, hybrids will eventually disappear.

On the other hand, storage capacity depends on your needs. As usual, the bigger the drive, the more expensive a computer will be. The good news is that you can always expand your storage space with a memory card, external drive or even replace the entire drive if needed. You could also use cloud storage in addition to your local drive.

Screen Size

Screen size is mostly a decision you'll have to make if you're buying a laptop. Laptop displays typically range between 11 and 17 inches and if you're planning on running multiple windows, the extra screen real estate will make a big difference.

However, keep in mind that the bigger the screen, the less portable a laptop will be. Bigger screen laptops will also have less battery life, so take that into consideration when choosing one.

With desktops, portability and battery life obviously doesn't matter but most people choose 24-inch or larger monitors.

Resolution

It all depends on your preferences (and budget), but no matter what the size, your display's resolution will determine how sharp your screen will appear.

Most budget laptops only come in 720p, decent enough for smaller display sizes, but aim for at least a 1080p (1920 x 1080) display.

High-end computers typically come with Ultra HD/4K displays but as usual, they are more expensive.

Size and weight

Obviously, the size and weight of desktops don't matter that much, but for laptops, portability can be a big factor. Lugging around a big and heavy laptop can be a hassle, so if you're planning on taking your laptop with you all the time, pick one that has a 13-inch screen or smaller.

Looking for the ultimate in portability? Some high-end laptops called ultrabooks can be amazingly slim and light. However, if you're on a budget and still prefer performance over portability, a thicker and heavier laptop will typically give you more bang for your buck.

Operating system

You've had a question on your mind for years, maybe even decades: PC or Mac? The good news is that both operating systems have improved over the years and it just depends on how you're using your PC or laptop. If you ask me, the line between the two operating systems keeps blurring with each update.

Creative professionals have traditionally used Macs for years and they tend to stick with the programs that they're familiar with, so Apple computers are more popular with video and graphics editors. If you're deep in the Apple ecosystem and use an iPhone, iPad or Apple Watch, you'll also appreciate how all these gadgets work together.

However, you can get a similarly spec'd PC for a much lower price point and that's one thing that Windows machines have - cost. Windows is still widely used in the workplace too and a lot of people are comfortable with it. Again, it all depends on what programs and user interfaces you prefer.

Alternatively, if you feel adventurous, you can explore other operating systems like the Chrome OS on Chromebooks or even Linux.
Psst... if money is no object, here are the absolute best laptops you can get in 2018. Spoiler alert: they're expensive.
Connectivity

There are tons of connection options nowadays and they keep evolving, so it can be quite confusing. To future proof your purchase, look for USB-C, USB 3.1 ports and at least 801.11AC on the Wi-Fi side.

Computers with these options may be more expensive but you'll be set for years to come. And as usual, the more ports a computer has, the better.

Price

At the end of the day, it still all boils down to how much you're willing to spend. If you're only planning on using your computer to browse the web, send emails, and watch the occasional video, then you can get away with a cheaper computer. Remember, nowadays, even the cheapest ones are powerful enough to run everyday tasks.

If you will depend on your computer for work, aim for at least a mid-ranged one. They might cost more, but you'll appreciate the speed and the time you'll save. As a general rule, the better the performance, the more expensive a computer will be. Assess your budget and how you'll be using your machine, hopefully with these tips, you'll find the right balance between price and performance.
Click here for our picks for the best laptops under $500.
Our top pick for the best budget laptop is the Asus VivoBook F510UA. Check out this laptop on Amazon.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Things you need to look for when buying a new computer - Komando.com

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Are you in the market for a new computer? With all the geeky jargon and specs being thrown around, it can be quite confusing. Nowadays, there are many reasonably priced budget laptops on the market. With the power of modern hardware, they can even provide a decent computing experience without completely draining your wallet.