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Now you write one.

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The back, the yoke, the yardage. Lapped seams,

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triangle shirtwaist fire - Google Search

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The High Cost of Cheap Fashion

http://upfront.scholastic.com/issues/09_02_13/book - /12

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Lessons from the Disaster

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The nuclear crisis in Japan has spurred questions about the future of nuclear energy policy. Whether support of nuclear power wanes or not, it seems likely that more safety measures will be put in place to prevent disaster.

This is so often the case. September 11, 2001 forever changed airport security, and other attempts by terrorists have changed our flying routines. One day children won't even think twice about pouring out their water and taking off their shoes before entering airport screening areas.

On March 25, 1911 an tragedy occurred that led to the reform of sweatshop laws. A fire broke out at the Triangle Shirtwaist Company building in lower Manhattan. The sewing company produced blouses with puffed sleeves and tight waists and employed more than 500 people. Less than 20 minutes after the fire started, 146 people were dead.

They'd never had a fire drill. Many of the seamstresses were trapped. The exits were blocked and many jumped from the building's upper floors.

It wasn't until this year, 100 years later, that all of the people killed in the fire were identified.

I've been familiar with this disaster since I started school at NYU. I took a good chunk of my classes in the building where the fire occurred. Each year on the anniversary, I saw flowers laid out in front of the building.

But, I didn't realize all the weight of the devastation that occurred until I saw the documentary Triangle: Remembering the Fire. The HBO documentary airs tonight at 9pm and will play throughout the week.

The Triangle fire opened the eyes of the public to the terrible working conditions and paved the way for better wages and safer working conditions and building codes for industrial workers.

There's still pain, there's still loss, but it helps to know that lessons were learned.

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The nuclear crisis in Japan has spurred questions about the future of nuclear energy policy. Whether support of nuclear power wanes or not, it seems likely that more safety measures will be put in place to prevent disaster. This is so often the case.

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Among the many reasons to celebrate on Labor Day are workforce benefits that were hard-won: the 40-hour workweek, paid holidays and medical and dental insurance. But better working conditions and workplace safety have often come at a steep cost. A pivotal case in point is the fire at a New York City clothing factory almost a century ago.

NPR's Bob Edwards talks to Washington Post writer David Von Drehle, whose new book, Triangle: the Fire that Changed America, provides the most detailed account yet of the blaze at the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory. Von Drehle says the deaths of almost 150 workers, mostly poor immigrant women, eventually led to improvements in the lives of millions of working people.

The "Triangle Fire" started on an upper floor of the high-rise factory building in Greenwich Village on a Saturday afternoon in March 1911. As quitting time neared, employees brushed their scraps of cotton off the table and into large bins.

Somebody "tosses a match or cigarette butt into one of these bins," Von Drehle says. "It goes off like a firebomb."

The approximately 125 workers on the eighth floor "barely escaped with their lives," Von Drehle says. A quick telephone call alerted workers on the tenth floor, and they too were able to make their way out of the burning building. But for several critical minutes during the commotion, no one notified the 250 workers on the ninth floor, where most of the the employees and sewing machines were located.

At 4:45 p.m., a guard routinely locked one of the two exit doors on the ninth floor, something the company did every day at closing time, to discourage theft. It was then that the workers on the ninth floor first learned about the fire from the smoke and flames.

Some escaped through the other, unlocked door. Others used a fire escape. Still others braved the elevators.

"But eventually there was just the locked door. The other exit was blocked by fire, the elevators couldn't run, the fire escape had collapsed... and there were two horrible choices left: to jump out the windows or to die in the fire," Von Drehle says.

Fifty-four people died by jumping and the rest died in the fire.

Shortly after, the governor of New York appointed the Factory Investigating Commission. Over the next three years, the commission held dozens of hearings, resulting in the passage of the the most sweeping set of workplace labor reforms in America.

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In 1911, a deadly fire swept through the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory, killing about 150 workers. Many of those who died were poor, immigrant women. A new book details the blaze, and the sweeping set of workplace labor reforms that followed. NPR's Bob Edwards talks to David Von Drehle about his new book, Triangle: the Fire that Changed America.

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The collapse of a Bangladesh clothing factory.

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MICHEL MARTIN, HOST:

There is another story now that speaks to the way the world is interconnected in ways we sometimes don't think much about. We want to talk now about that horrific building collapse in Bangladesh that's resulted in the death of at least 400 people so far, and many more are still missing.

And you might be wondering what this has to do with you. Well, the building housed a number of garment factories. Clothes for several Western companies were made there, intended for sale in Europe, Canada and the U.S. And that tragedy - now believed to be the most deadly accident in the history of the garment industry - is leading a number of people to ask if the cost of cheap fashion is just too high.

We wanted to talk more about this, so we have called Robin Givhan. She's a Pulitzer Prize-winning writer. She's written for Vogue, The Daily Beast and Washington Post. She's back with us once again.

Welcome back. Thanks so much for joining us once again.

ROBIN GIVHAN: It's nice to be here.

MARTIN: I want to point out that this terrible situation in Bangladesh is just the latest. There was a factory fire in Karachi in Pakistan which killed almost 300 people eight months ago and I wanted to know if there's a common thread to these events and is this something that people in fashion are talking about?

GIVHAN: You know, there is a common thread. I mean, I think there's been something like almost a thousand people who have died in garment industry factory-related accidents in the last year and one of the very first stories that I wrote for the Washington Post when I arrived there back in the '90s was about sweatshops that had been discovered in California.

So there is a connection and that connection is that there is a tremendous pressure on the fashion industry from consumers and created by the fashion industry itself to create inexpensive clothing that they can mass-market.

MARTIN: I think people who've studied these issues maybe remember from American history the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire of 1911. This is something that, you know, growing up in New York, we were taught...

GIVHAN: Yeah.

MARTIN: ...you know, in history. Is this something that has arisen as a result of the outsourcing of a lot of this work because the labor standards just aren't there in a lot of these - or the labor standards or safety standards are just not there in a lot of these countries or just not enforced in a lot of these countries?

GIVHAN: Yeah.

MARTIN: Or do you think it has to do with kind of the pressure to produce more and more, more quickly and quickly?

GIVHAN: I think it's a combination of both because you can blame some of it on outsourcing because it means that the point of manufacturing has gotten farther and farther away from the corporate headquarters, so to speak, so that the corporate watchdogs aren't right there on the ground, so it's easier for these kinds of abuses to happen.

But at the same time, you know, the sweatshops that were discovered were in California, so it's not all about outsourcing. The point of the pressure of pricing plays an enormous part in it. The pressure to have trends hit stores quickly plays a part in it. And, also, our entire culture and the way in which we equate consumption with reward; you know, disposable trendy fashion has become sort of the sugary cereal of the fashion industry. It doesn't have a lot of value, so to speak, but it's something that makes us happy, it entertains us and it's a distraction.

MARTIN: Is this something that people in fashion are talking about among themselves? You know, sometimes, within an industry, people are aware of a problem or a situation and are talking about it among themselves before the rest of us get - become aware of this. Is this a concern within the fashion industry? I mean, I'm thinking about, you know, a couple of years ago when the television personality Kathie Lee Gifford had a line at a well-known discount department store...

GIVHAN: Right.

MARTIN: ...and the working conditions were revealed to be not optimal and this was a huge embarrassment for her as a personality. But is this something that people within the industry are talking about?

GIVHAN: Yeah. I mean, the point with Kathie Lee is that, you know, she was embarrassed and she started talking about it when it was revealed to her. This was not something that she was keeping an eye on. This was not something that she was investigating, so - yeah - the industry talks about it when these stories bubble up into the consciousness, but the reality is that, when you start talking about a designer who's based in New York and a factory worker who is based in Bangladesh, I mean, that distance is so far and the layers of people in between are so many that it really isn't something that's constantly on their mind. They're more concerned about sourcing their fabric and, you know, trying to figure out, you know, how am I going to get my garment to the retailer? That other stuff takes place at a distance.

MARTIN: I'm reminded - you know, Robin, as I was researching this story, I was reading a story about the Bangladesh fire online and I'm going to hold this up for you that, on the same page is an ad for one of this country's most expensive department stores...

GIVHAN: Right.

MARTIN: ...advertising one of this country's most expensive brands of shoe.

GIVHAN: And, when you say expensive, we're talking about $500, at least.

MARTIN: At least. And so one would look at that and a lot of people might say, well, you know what? I would like to be a responsible shopper, but I can't afford that kind of thing. I can't afford handmade shoes that are going to be hand-sewn by a guy, you know, in Italy and then sent over here.

GIVHAN: Right.

MARTIN: Particularly people who are on a limited budget, maybe single moms who are buying clothes for kids, you know, who outgrow their clothes quickly, they might say to themselves, what am I supposed to do? Having inexpensive clothes really improves the quality of my life. And there are other people who say that this kind of work, controversial as it may be, being outsourced from the United States, offers opportunities in countries that did not exist previously. What do people say about that?

GIVHAN: Well, you know, there's so much there. I mean, there are many aspects to that from - yes - it does provide jobs in other countries and, sometimes, those jobs are quite good compared to what else might be available. But I think you have to pull it apart and, you know, there's a way to have those jobs in distant countries from the U.S., but also make sure that the working conditions are fair and reasonable without increasing the price to a degree where it suddenly becomes prohibitive for customers here who are looking for a bargain.

I think what happens is that we have created this idea of what a bargain is and we want things so cheap that, at some point along the way, somebody is suffering because of that. So for someone to say, you know, I can't afford $500 and $600 shoes, that is true, but can you afford a $30 pair of shoes and, if so, do you need 10 pairs of shoes? You know, we've been trained to think that, you know, we have to have a lot of stuff and I think that's sort of fundamentally what complicates this and what makes it so difficult for people to solve the problem.

MARTIN: You're going to stick around and we're going to talk more about this and the effect of all this fast and cheap fashion may be having on our psyches and our closet space, but before we take a short break, I wanted to ask whether these kinds of incidents make a difference in how the people who are kind of on the frontlines of this, the fashion designers, the retailers, think about this issue because they do play a role in shaping people's tastes.

GIVHAN: Yeah. I mean, I think when something like this happens, it is jarring for the fashion industry and it does make them reassess and, certainly, you know, there's a huge movement in New York to save the garment industry, meaning the area around sort of 34th, 40th Street and 7th Avenue, and one of the reasons for that is not only to save a part of New York history, but also to save American jobs and that means keeping a closer watch on the manufacturing.

MARTIN: Robin Givhan is going to stick around for our Beauty Shop conversation. We're going to talk about why some of those bargain t-shirts might not just be cluttering up your closet, but also maybe cluttering up your life. We're going to talk about that just ahead on TELL ME MORE from NPR News. I'm Michel Martin.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)

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NPR transcripts are created on a rush deadline by Verb8tm, Inc., an NPR contractor, and produced using a proprietary transcription process developed with NPR. This text may not be in its final form and may be updated or revised in the future. Accuracy and availability may vary. The authoritative record of NPR's programming is the audio record.

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MICHEL MARTIN, HOST: There is another story now that speaks to the way the world is interconnected in ways we sometimes don't think much about. We want to talk now about that horrific building collapse in Bangladesh that's resulted in the death of at least 400 people so far, and many more are still missing.

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A Like Disaster, Buried by the Press

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The Consumerist has a fascinating post asking whether we've really eliminated our Triangle Shirtwaist Factory disasters or if we've just outsourced them.

It turns out that a sweatshop in Bangladesh that made clothes for The Gap, Abercrombie & Fitch, JC Penney, Target, and others, suffered an eerily Triangle-like disaster just a few months ago:

When we noted the 100th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire on March 25, you might have looked at that and thought, phew, good thing stuff like that isn't happening anymore. But in developing countries around the world with little to no worker rights and sweatshops paying pennies a day, it is. Like in Bangladesh in December 2010 when 29 workers died after a fire swept through the Hameem garment factory. The workers were trapped inside because guards had been ordered to lock the gates in the event of a fire in order to prevent clothes from being stolen during the confusion. The factory made clothes for GAP.

Consumerist links a video interview of Charles Kernaghan, director of the Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights, who notes the parallels to Triangle, including the locked exits, low wages, and workers leaping to their deaths:

This is going on still in the global economy today. Not one change...

The workers work twelve to fourteen hours a day, seven days a week. They get one day off a month. And they live in abject misery, in miserable hovels that are unimaginable. Bangladesh is now the third-largest exporter in the world of garments to the United States.

Watch the whole thing:

Of course we shouldn't take one anecdote in Bangladesh as proof that we have a systemic problem with trade and our economy, but this is hardly an isolated event. One book put the factory-fires death toll at more than 300 from 1990 to 2005. Bangladeshi labor advocates put the toll at 400 just since 2006. But what's particularly interesting for journalists is how the almost-nonexistent coverage of this story raises serious questions about what we know and how well the press keeps us informed about the consequences of our economy.

I hadn't heard about the Bangladeshi deaths until this Consumerist post, so I looked through Factiva to see why I had missed it. No wonder: There were four brief stories total for American audiences, one of which was in a trade publication and another of which was in a UK-based paper (there was much more coverage in European and Asian news outlets and some U.S. newspapers ran wire briefs). The New York Times gave it 500 words and never revisited the story once it emerged which American companies had outsourced production there.

Women's Wear Daily, the fashion industry's newspaper, went with the back-to-business angle for its first story on the disaster:

DHAKA, Bangladesh- Production at a sportswear factory here where at least 31 apparel workers were killed and 200 seriously injured on Tuesday will resume on Saturday, senior officials of the factory said Wednesday, while the government investigates the cause of the blaze and inspects safety systems.

The Financial Times wrote this lede a few days later:

Western clothing brands are having to confront the dismal safety record of Bangladesh's garment industry after 26 workers died last week in a factory fire.

The Associated Press did best. Here was its lede:

Dozens of people were killed after a devastating blaze raced through a garment factory that supplies major multinationals such as Gap and JCPenney near Bangladesh's capital on Tuesday.

Nobody, at least in Factiva (and I should note that it doesn't include every news source) results, reported how little the Bangladeshi workers earned.

Kernaghan says workers at Triangle made 14 cents an hour in 1911 (or $3.18 today). At Bangladesh's Hameen factory, workers made, at most, 28 cents an hour. Let that sink in for a minute. Kernaghan:

Their wages in Bangladesh today are one-tenth what wages were in the United States one hundred years ago. We're racing to the bottom.

I've talked before about how so-called free trade is all about arbitrage: Environmental arbitrage. Labor arbitrage. Regulatory arbitrage. Tax arbitrage.

Press arbitrage is no small factor, either. How disastrous would the PR have been for The Gap, Abercrombie, et al, if the factory with locked exits that killed twenty-nine workers sewing our clothes had been in the U.S. and not in Dhaka?

Think about that the next time you're walking into The Gap, much less reporting a story on it.

Has America ever needed a media watchdog more than now? Help us by joining CJR today.

Ryan Chittum is a former Wall Street Journal reporter, and deputy editor of The Audit, CJR's business section. If you see notable business journalism, give him a heads-up at rc2538@columbia.edu. Follow him on Twitter at @ryanchittum. Tags: Free Trade, Labor, Sweatshops, The Consumerist, Undercovered Stories

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A Triangle Shirtwaist-Like Disaster, Buried By the U.S. Press

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The Consumerist has a fascinating post asking whether we've really eliminated our Triangle Shirtwaist Factory disasters or if we've just outsourced them.

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Put on your headphones and sit back.

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JACKI LYDEN, host:

This is TELL ME MORE from NPR News. I'm Jacki Lyden. Michel Martin is away.

Coming up, the college athlete born with one leg who managed the leverage to win a national wrestling championship. We'll hear from Anthony Robles in just a few moments.

But first, an event that had a profound impact on the way we work and live today. It was 100 years ago, March 25, 1911, when a devastating fire ripped through the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory in New York City. In just under half an hour, 146 people would lose their lives.

At least one set of doors had been locked by factory owners, and the death toll was ultimately attributed to poor working conditions and safety measures, and a general disregard for the young immigrant girls and women who made up a majority of those who were killed in the fire.

The tragic loss of life captivated the American public, and would underline issues of labor relations, class and politics for decades. One warning. To understand the nature of this historic event, we're going to briefly hear details of the tragedy that may not be suitable for young ears.

Curtis Lyons joins me know from our New York studios. Mr. Lyons is director of the Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives at Cornell University. And the Kheel Center is home to the largest archive of information regarding the Triangle fire. Mr. Lyons, thank you so much for joining us.

Mr. CURTIS LYONS (Director, Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives, Cornell University): Thank you for having me.

LYDEN: Let me take you back to a clip that we pulled actually from the Chicago Tribune, but they had a correspondent in New York. This is looking back to the 25th of March, 1911.

(Reading) They were putting on their hats and coats at quitting time on Saturday, March the 25th, 1911, when someone noticed smoke curling from the long rag bin under the cutting tables on the eighth floor. Someone telephoned warning to the executive offices on the 10th floor, but nobody told the ninth floor. There were no sprinklers. One set of doors was locked.

The building's fire escape filled up and collapsed. It's elevators made several trips, but were finally jammed by the bodies of those who had leapt into the open elevator shaft to escape the flames. The rest of the ninth floor workers were forced to the windows. They came down like rockets. Long hair streaming with fire, dresses aflame. The final count was 146 dead.

So listening to this account, what were the means of escape? What was possible, and what was blocked?

Mr. LYONS: There were two interior staircases, one of which was passable, the other of which was commonly locked near the end of the day so that all the workers could be required to go out the one exit so their bags could be checked to make sure they weren't stealing anything.

There was also an exterior fire escape, but it was very difficult to navigate, and because of those difficulties, it ended up too crowded and collapsed with most everyone who was on it dying that way.

LYDEN: Let's listen to this clip from a woman who survived this fire, Pauline Pepe. She was interviewed in 1986, and this interview is part of your collection at the Kheel Center. And here she is describing what she saw when she got out of this building.

(Soundbite of archived interview)

Ms. PAULINE PEPE (Fire Survivor): When we got down, we saw the three flights burning, and I says (unintelligible) were we up there? We couldn't imagine -everything was caught.

Unidentified Woman: What was going on downstairs when you came down?

Ms. PEPE: The people, they're all - all the bodies - oh, we got sick. The men took us over right way. When I think of all those girls engaged to be married, oh, I feel terrible. That was a sight to see.

LYDEN: You know, it's remarkable, that clip, Curtis Lyons, because you still hear in her voice how horrifying it was for her.

Mr. LYONS: Oh, yes. There's no question. It was a scarring event for everyone who attended, I believe. I mean, the policeman and the firefighters, the witnesses. There was a gentleman on the second floor who was in his office. He heard a ruckus. He went to the window just in time to see a body fall right in front of him, and then another and another.

And they found him still standing in front of that window dumbstruck an hour later, the police did, and had to just lead him out of there, because he was just in complete shock and terror.

LYDEN: If you're just joining us, this is TELL ME MORE from NPR News. We're speaking with Curtis Lyons. He's the director of the largest archive of information on the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire, which occurred 100 years ago today. It killed 146 people.

The fire came at a time when labor relations in the garment industry was really about to change anyway. And about 20 years later, Franklin Roosevelt's very famous labor secretary, Frances Perkins, would say that the Triangle fire was, quote, "the torch that lit up the whole industrial scene."

Now, we have a clip of tape here from the Kheel Center's archive in a much later lecture in 1964 in which Frances Perkins talks about the fire and its impact.

(Soundbite of archived interview)

Ms. FRANCES PERKINS (Labor Secretary for President Franklin Roosevelt): This made a terrible impression on the people of the state of New York. I can't begin to tell you how disturbed the people were everywhere. It was as though we had all done something wrong, it shouldn't have been. We were sorry, mea culpa, mea culpa.

LYDEN: So how did labor relations organize after the fire?

Mr. LYONS: Well, there was certainly a lot more interest. The International Ladies' Garment Workers Union had formed just a few years earlier and had gained a number of members from the uprising of the 20,000 which began in 1909 and ended in 1910.

Workers of the Triangle Company had started that strike in 1909. So regular newspaper readers all knew Triangle, and they had read that these were the kinds of things that the workers wanted rectified.

LYDEN: Mm-hmm.

Mr. LYONS: And now they could read directly, here were some of the results of them not being rectified, and part of which was, of course, not having union representation. One girl can go to an owner and say that door needs to be unlocked, and she'll be fired. If it's done with the union backing, then they're much more likely to get results.

LYDEN: Now Hilda Solis, the current secretary for Labor, is in New York today in commemoration of the fire. It's interesting that she too talks about a sweatshop from her own community in California - El Monte, California, found in 1995 to have Thai immigrants sewing brand-name clothing for next to nothing. Connections, do you think, to the Triangle fire?

Mr. LYONS: Well, there are certainly still sweatshops in America. There's no question about that, illegal sweatshops, at least we can say that. And there are still very illegal sweatshops overseas. There was a fire in Bangladesh in December, which reminded a lot of people of the Triangle fire including young immigrant women in fact from other countries other than Bangladesh who were jumping from the top floor windows in an attempt to escape the fire.

So there's no question that while the Triangle fire led to some extremely important legislation, that there are still areas where there are great dangers in the workplace.

LYDEN: As the director of the archive, is there one item or story that stands out for you?

Mr. LYONS: You know, there was one quote from a survivor. She talked about how when they immigrated they knew life would be tough. They knew it would be better than what they left behind, which in almost all cases, of course, it was. But she said that all the greenhorns, which is what they called the most recent immigrants, all the greenhorn parents told their children that in America they don't let you burn. And that always grips me very hard whenever I read that quote.

LYDEN: Curtis Lyons is director of the Kheel Center for Labor Management, Documentation and Archives at Cornell University. He joined us from our New York bureau. Mr. Lyons, thank you so much for speaking with us today.

Mr. LYONS: Thank you for having me.

Copyright © 2011 NPR. All rights reserved. Visit our website terms of use and permissions pages at www.npr.org for further information.

NPR transcripts are created on a rush deadline by Verb8tm, Inc., an NPR contractor, and produced using a proprietary transcription process developed with NPR. This text may not be in its final form and may be updated or revised in the future. Accuracy and availability may vary. The authoritative record of NPR's programming is the audio record.

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Remembering New York's Deadliest Factory Fire

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Today marks the one hundredth anniversary of New York City's deadliest industrial fire. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory blaze left some 146 garment workers dead. Most were immigrant women. The tragedy also prompted changes in labor law and politics, which still resonate today.

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Look at this movie.

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The Jewish Americans

Video

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The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Disaster | The Jewish Americans

This video segment from the documentary The Jewish Americans outlines the story of the Triangle Shirtwaist Company fire in New York City. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory was owned by Max Blank and Isaac Harris, ambitious Russian Jewish immigrants. Their company employed Jewish immigrants who worked in sweatshop conditions. On March 25, 1911, a fire started on the eighth floor. The exits were locked, and fire truck ladders only reached to the sixth floor, so there was no escape for the workers trapped inside the burning building. One hundred forty-six workers were killed. Although Blank and Harris were tried for manslaughter, they were acquitted.

Learn more about The Jewish Americans.

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The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Disaster | The Jewish Americans

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This video segment from the documentary The Jewish Americans outlines the story of the Triangle Shirtwaist Company fire in New York City. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory was owned by Max Blank and Isaac Harris, ambitious Russian Jewish immigrants. Their company employed Jewish immigrants who worked in sweatshop conditions.

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Remembering the 1911 Triangle Factory Fire

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a fire broke out at the Triangle Waist Factory in New York City. Within 18 minutes, 146 people were dead as a result
of the fire.

This site includes original sources on the fire held at the ILR School's Kheel Center, an archive of historical material on labor and industrial relations.

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Cornell University - ILR School - The Triangle Factory Fire

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a fire broke out at the Triangle Waist Factory in New York City. Within 18 minutes, 146 people were dead as a resultof the fire. This site includes original sources on the fire held at the ILR School's Kheel Center, an archive of historical material on labor and industrial relations.

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What went wrong?

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Cornell University - ILR School - The Triangle Factory Fire - 9th Floor Model

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How did a 'fireproof' building become a fire trap? This model represents problems that existed before and during the fire that caused so many people to lose their lives on the 9th floor.