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Frames, mats and shadowboxes are a few ways to present your artwork to the public.  One of the basic ways 2D work can be shown is matted with a frame. Artwork can be single or double matted.

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Length & Height of your artwork.

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Subtract 1/2" from the Height & Length for opening

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Subtract 1/2" from the Height & Length for opening

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Example:
5.5"x8" - Artwork
5"x7.5" - Opening

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Add 2" to the top & sides, 2.5" for the bottom

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Add 2" to the top & sides, 2.5" for the bottom

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Having the extra 1/2" gives bottom more weight and helps visually support the artwork.

Most abstract art does not need the extra mat at the bottom since it is not realistic and doesn't have a horizon line.

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Subtract 1/2" from the Height & Length of the Opening measurement

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Subtract 1/2" from the Height & Length of the Opening measurement

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Example:
5.5"x8" - Artwork
5"x7.5" - Opening

5+2+2=9
7.5+2+2.5=12
9"x12" - Outside of mat

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Your artwork will have 1/4" overlap from the opening so there will not be any edges of the paper showing.

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Make your marks on the BACK of the matboard with a pencil

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Make your marks on the BACK of the matboard with a pencil

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Do 2 measurements - one on each side of the matboard to make sure your opening is square & level with the outside edges.

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Make sure your blade is sharp!

Cutting starting from the top and travelling down the ruler works best.

Keep your supporting thumb away from the cutting area!

Put your index finger on top  (see photo) to support and give steady pressure

Do multiple passes

If your hand is shaking, you are applying too much pressure!

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Take the knife and line it up with the edge of the ruler.

Always keep the ruler on the mat side of the cutting

Make sure the cutting edge of the knife is flush with the ruler.

The cutting action should be your arm moving towards your body with the blade always farthest away from you

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DO NOT LET ANY FINGERS OF YOUR HAND HOLDING THE RULER BE ANYWHERE NEAR WHERE THE BLADE WILL BE!!!

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Label the area to be cut out so there is no confusion as to what will be cut out.

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Cut the red vertical line first if you are right handed. Cut the blue vertical line first if you are left handed. Doing the longer cuts first helps with the stability of the matboard. Cut from the beginning of the line to the end of the line in one smooth stroke until the matboard is cut through. Rotate the mat and cut the second side, keeping the mat underneath the ruler. IT WILL TAKE MORE THAN 2 PASSES

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Angling your mat will allow you to protect the matboard with your ruler and have a more even stroke following your ruler. Be very careful on the corners to touch but not go over.

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Continue rotating your work once a side is cut

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Continue rotating your work once a side is cut

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Do not worry about the corners untill all 4 sides are cut. Go back to the corners and touch up any parts of the corner that need to be cut through.

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Save the smaller pieces of matboard as they may be able to be recycled.

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Mount your artwork to the back side of the mat with tape.

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A mat sets the stage for your work. It visually separates the image from the space it is around, highlighting the artwork.

Matting can also help to protect artwork. For artists and collectors, a mat allows unframed art to be handled without touching the art. A mat allows air circulation between the art and the glazing material (the glass or plastic sheet that covers the art in a frame.)

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A second mat is usually a complementary color to the artwork. This helps accent the work and ties the entire presentation together.

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Shadowboxes are used for 3D presentations where you need more depth.

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Canvases usually do not require mats. Visually, frames for canvases are usually wider and can be a replacement for a mat.

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The artwork gains a sense of three-dimensional depth when the piece is viewed.

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Mat and float presentations are used when the artwork has a deckled or uneven edge or it is important that none of the image is covered and a mat is deep enough to provide the separation from the art and the glass of the frame.