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A list of abbreviations from a lesson in class which is really useful for this project and I’ll definitely be referring back to this through the fitting and teams work.

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Comp shop work at the Cotswolds store of a North Face woven polyester waterproof coat

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Fjall Raven wool shirt I found in store as I couldn’t find any Jersey garments

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The North face Jersey jumper I found online as I couldn’t find any Jersey garments in store

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Mind map I did in class for factors affecting the fashion industry

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Notes I’ve taken to research and include in my main body of work

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Notes I’ve taken to research and include in my main body of work

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Moncler comp shop photos from my visit to Moncler, I chose to look at Moncler for my luxury outdoor shop research as it does lots of outerwear and skiwear. I enjoyed my visit to Moncler the staff were friendly and let me walk around to gather research and take photos. It had a relaxed but classier atmosphere than the previous shops id been in as expected as its a luxury brand.

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I looked on edited to compare brands I did in my comp shop work to include in my research

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I compared the brands i looked at for my cop shop work on edited to include in my research

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An example of some sewing practise on CLO3D, i really enjoyed this day but will take a lot of practise, i really struggled to understand how some tools work. Ive downloaded CLO3D on my laptop so i can further practise at home and I hope to keep using this in projects throughout the year

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Here’s an example of when i was playing around with the colour and fabric tools familiarise it myself with the different colour shades and fabric options available. I was impressed with how realistic it was and its really investing seeing patterns come to life you can alter and change so easily. I can see how important leaning this software will be for future work avoiding creating so many samples physically, and instead digitally designing and creating samples to be more sustainable and avoid waste.

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I tried recreating a woven garment from my comp shop so i chose to try and make a men’s outwear jacket, i found it easy to free draw a pattern on the avatar with the polygon tool. But sewing and constructing the jacket in 3D and 2D very challenging, it took multiple attempts and help from class mates and Emily to get it right. Once I had it sewn. Together i started playing around with colours fabrics and trims, i added some buttons. and a zip and tried to add a collar but couldn't get the construction right. I’m going to keep practising CLO3D at home so hopefully i can understand the software more and create more technical designs.

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Another task we were set on our CLO3D day was to construct a a jacket from pre designed pieces, it was really challenging even though it was pre made for us. As there was so many technical details and getting used to how he garments layin 2D vs how they look in 3D will take some getting used to but im really enjoying learning it.

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An example of sewing work we were given in class, we needed to sew each piece together using free sewing tool and segment sewing tool. The trousers were fairly easy to piece together but the waistband was really difficult and i want to practise it some more at home.

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Some notes i took from the fashion enter factory masterclass,  i found this masterclass very informative and really enjoyed learning about fabric production. The tour of the factory was great to see industrial machinery in real life and id like to join some of the Saturday classes to learn more about the different machines they have.

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More notes from the fashion enter factory masterclass i can use and reflect back to during this project

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Class notes of why suppliers might source from Europe, we discussed pros and cons comparing to ordering from the far east.

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Class notes of key points to consider when sourcing, we discussed in class the pros and cons of sourcing to consider during the garment manufacturing stage.

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Class notes on critical path of a garment, we discussed different factors what cold affect a garments path and what risks we should be aware of. Id never hear of a critical path before so i found this lesson really interesting and helpful for this brief.

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A mind map for critical path planning, I wrote down initial ideas for a critical path of a garment to research in more detail.

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A garment technology mind map I did to start brainstorming ideas of what the job would consist of and other roles id interact with.

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A mind map on possible factors which could affect the fashion industry, i found this really interesting to discuss in class as the future of fashion and technology. It’s always changing and I wasn't aware of some of the new technologies and innovations happening now i can start learning more and research.

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Some class notes on why relationships with suppliers are important and we discussed in industry how these practises would align.

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Class notes about sourcing from the east, we discussed the pros and cons in class and compared it to sourcing in Europe.

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Class notes on long lead suppliers, we discussed and compared the pros and cons of long lead vs local suppliers and how is can differentiate in each country.

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Some CLO3D class notes I took during the masterclass to refer back to and help me when i practise more designs at home.

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Some more notes I’ve take during class to refer back to, I think these were taken on one of the first lessons when we were still being introduced to the brief so they’re quite vague notes of things to start looking into more.

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Notes I took during supplier lesson with key things id like to look at and include in my main research

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Notes I’ve taken to help with my swot and pestle analysis for the north face, I've never done a swot and pestle analysis before so its something I will need to research a lot and I'm going to use library resources to help with this.

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Notes from our discussion in class about the critical path of garments, again this isn’t a term I've heard of before so I will be doing more research at home to make sure I fully understand this.

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Notes to refer back to when working from home, Ive taken lots of notes during the past few days as we’ve had lots of interesting and relevant lessons/ masterclasses for this brief. So I will start working through them and try to include as much of this information in my research into the north face.

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We visited the fashion enter factory in North London to look at how clothing can be ethically produced in the UK. I found the presentation and factory tour vey informative and interesting and I intend to book into their Saturday workshops to learn more and have a go at using some of their industrial machines.

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During our PPE workshop we had various lessons on ways we could become more employable whilst were studying not just in college but also outside of college. One of the tasks we completed was to build a cv on cvbuilder 360, here is a screenshot of mine and I will continue adding to it though out the year.

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We were tasked to take a personality test in our PPE workshop and this was the outcome of my results which I feel is accurate, we’ve been told to continue doing them throughout the year so I will try and do a few more each term.

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We also were tasked to create a linked in profile, I already have and use linked in and I’ve been trying to document relevant workshops and masterclasses we do throughout the year. I also plan on uploading examples of work once its been graded so. I know if its good enough to upload and will start to build an online portfolio throughout the year.

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How Ethical Is The North Face? - Good On You

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An interesting article I found online about ethics and sustainability at the north face, it goes into detail about animal welfare issues, labour issues as well as various other topics i can research further.

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NOTE: As of July 2020 this brand has an updated rating in the Directory which you can check here for the latest info. This article will be updated soon to reflect any changes in scoring.
Founded in 1966, American brand The North Face is a leader in outdoor equipment and sportswear. Since the late 1990s, the brand has expanded beyond technical clothes to more fashion forward items, becoming a staple brand for streetwear fans around the world. In fact, The North Face has recently launched a collaboration with HYKE for Fall/Winter 2019, skillfully combining function and style to create a minimalist collection.

On the sustainability front, The North Face has been making some progress with the The North Face Renewed line, a collection of refurbished clothing.

But is this enough? How does the brand impact on the planet, people, and animals? How ethical is The North Face? Let's find out.

Environmental Impact

The North Face rates 'It's a Start' for its environmental impact. It's a member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and uses some eco-friendly materials, including recycled polyester. Although the brand has set a target to consume 100% renewable energy in its own operations by 2025, it has not set a supply chain target. It complies with its own Restricted Substances List but it has not set a target to eliminate hazardous chemicals in its supply chain. There is also no evidence of a current water target or goal.

Labour Conditions

Based on the 2018 Ethical Fashion Report, The North Face's labour rating is 'It's a Start'. The American brand has a Code of Conduct that covers all of the ILO Four Fundamental Freedoms principles, but very few of its facilities have worker empowerment initiatives such as collective bargaining or rights to make a complaint. It traces most of its supply chain and audits some of its traced facilities, but has made little progress towards ensuring payment of a l iving wage in its supply chain.

Animal Welfare

The North Face states that it sources wool from non-mulesed sheep and uses down certified by the Responsible Down Standard. On the plus side, it doesn't use fur, angora, or exotic animal skin, but it still uses leather and cashmere, which present their own host of issues across the board! This is why its animal rating is also 'It's a Start'.

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How Ethical Is The North Face? - Good On You

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NOTE: As of July 2020 this brand has an updated rating in the Directory which you can check here for the latest info. This article will be updated soon to reflect any changes in scoring. Founded in 1966, American brand The North Face is a leader in outdoor equipment and sportswear.

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ISAWITFIRST released a documentary around 4 years ago on the BBC, luckily i watched it a few times when it was first released but I assume due to some of the backlash this documentary caused is one of the reasons its no longer available to watch. I also checked YouTube but again its all been taken down. It mainly focused on showing life of buyers, merchandisers, designers and the owners in the offices but showed very little of the garment workers and behind the scenes supply chain. They claimed to have good relationships with the factories they used but there was various episodes which included clips on the owners pressuring the buyers to get discounts. Or to get the prices as low as possible and ask for discounts after prices have already been agreed and started to be manufactured. An example of the pressures and time frames they put on suppliers is they found an instagram post were Kim Kardashian’s wore a bodysuit on a red carpet which went viral, within two weeks they had their own dupe on their website ready to be ordered.

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Misguided released a documentary in 2020 showcasing their office lives in Manchester,  I watched this a few times as agin this documentary has been taken down potentially because of the backlash it caused. It showed various shoots some in UK and some abroad, the parties and glamorous lives the head office staff live but not a huge amount of transparency on their actual suppliers. There was various scenes of buyers negotiating deals with supplies trying to get prices down, stock which almost didn't arrive in time for a shoot, and loosing a brand influencer deal with their rival PLT. Issues such as these potentially contributed to the downfall of misguided which went into administration in 2022.

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Future of Textile and Garment Manufacturing: 10 Tech Trends

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An article I found really interesting and relevant to this brief which has given me lots of ideas to look into further, and to help with my research and ideas of where the future of fabric production could be going.

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In this era of digital revolution, where bytes and pixels permeate every aspect of our lives, it's no surprise that technology is leaving its indelible mark on the clothes we wear.

Traditional looms and sewing machines are giving way to soft robotics and artificial intelligence (AI), while fabrics themselves are becoming smarter and more functional.

Technology, the master architect of progress, has become a driving force in reshaping the future of the textile and garment manufacturing industry. The fusion of technology with textiles and garments is revolutionizing the way we design, produce, and consume fashion, birthing a new era of possibilities.

In this article, we delve into the realm of textile and garment manufacturing, exploring ten remarkable technology trends that are shaping the future of the industry. Join us on this captivating journey as we unravel the threads of the future, where fashion and technology intertwine to create a tapestry of endless possibilities!

Top 10 Technology Trends for the Textile & Garment Industry

The textile and garment industry are embracing sustainability and green practices to reduce their environmental impact and meet consumer demand for eco-friendly products.

Digital transformation is revolutionizing textile and garment manufacturing by integrating digital technologies throughout the entire value chain, from design to distribution. This comprehensive shift is enhancing efficiency and customer satisfaction through various means.

Cloud-Based Tools: Integrated digital tools like P roduct Lifecycle Management (PLM) and Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) software are pivotal in this digital journey. They facilitate seamless communication and collaboration, reducing the need for extensive business travel and meetings. Manufacturers can connect digitally with buyers, designers, and production units, ensuring efficient coordination and minimizing lead times.

The convergence of digital twins, augmented reality (AR), virtual reality (VR), and the Internet of Things (IoT) enables the creation of digital replicas of real-world objects and environments, fostering real-time monitoring, simulation, and enhanced decision-making processes.

Digital Twins: Digital replicas of machines, products, or even entire factories are now being used to monitor the performance of these assets in real time. Smart Factory tools provide real-time insights into the performance, condition, and behavior of their physical counterparts by harnessing sensor data, connectivity, and advanced analytics. These replicas can even help you monitor assets remotely, identify anomalies, and simulate various scenarios to optimize performance and reduce downtime.

In a world grappling with environmental challenges, the circular economy has emerged as a powerful concept to mitigate waste generation and promote sustainable practices. It focuses on reducing waste through recycling, upcycling, and repurposing of materials, thereby conserving resources and minimizing environmental footprint.

In an era of heightened consumer awareness and demand for ethical practices, transparent supply chains and traceability have become crucial elements for businesses across industries. With the use of technologies like blockchain and traceability systems, companies can get end-to-end visibility into their apparel supply chains , ensuring ethical sourcing, responsible production practices, and enhanced consumer trust.

The COVID-19 pandemic has brought to light the vulnerabilities of global supply chains, prompting businesses to reevaluate their sourcing strategies. Nearshoring, reshoring, and localized production have emerged as effective solutions to enhance supply chain resilience and reduce reliance on overseas suppliers.

Like most things, the integration of Artificial Intelligence (AI) in design and production processes will completely revolutionize the way manufacturing businesses operate. AI will allow companies to optimize design, streamline production planning, and implement advanced quality control systems.

The convergence of soft robotics and fabrics has given rise to a new era of innovation with the development of smart textiles and functional wearables. Companies are now creating truly 'connected' garments that go beyond traditional clothing, offering enhanced functionality and a myriad of applications.

Robotic and AI-driven automation have brought about a revolutionary transformation in the manufacturing industry, resulting in increased efficiency, reduced labor costs, and enhanced productivity. Through the adoption of robotic systems and the utilization of AI technologies, companies are optimizing their production processes and establishing fully automated factories.

By forming alliances and consortiums across industries, companies are able to create shared value, leverage expertise, and drive industry-wide advancements. Collaborative efforts and joint research and development (R&D) initiatives are paving the way for new technologies and materials.

Conclusion

The future of textile and garment manufacturing is being shaped by an array of transformative technology trends. From digital twins and green manufacturing to circular economy initiatives, the industry is undergoing a profound evolution. These advancements are not only enhancing operational efficiency and productivity but also driving sustainability, transparency, and customer-centricity.

As these technology trends continue to shape this industry, the manufacturing sector is poised for transformative growth. Embracing these advancements will not only drive operational efficiency but also companies position themselves at the forefront of innovation.

If you want to get ahead of these fast-moving trends, speak to WFX's Digital Transformation expert to create a personalized digitalization strategy for your business.

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Future of Textile and Garment Manufacturing: 10 Tech Trends

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In this article, we explore 10 remarkable technology trends shaping the future of textile and garment manufacturing.

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A really article I found on the future of supply chains on WGSN, lots of very interesting points and stats to help with my project so I will keep looking through the library resources to see what else I can find.
https://www.wgsn.com/insight/article/653bbd70f6eb3baf57085ac6#page9

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This is the information I found on the north faces website about manufacturing so i can check other articles and research I find online to see if it aligns with what they’re telling their customers they’re doing.

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CHEMICAL RESPONSIBILITY

Our commitment to creating products that safeguard the environment is particularly challenging when it comes to delivering the high-performance apparel and equipment our customers expect.

Some of the chemicals we use to impart performance characteristics such as water, stain and oil repellency contain PFCs (perfluorinated chemicals). We are working to replace these Durable Water Repellency (DWR) chemicals with environmentally preferable options.

To clearly communicate our standards for chemical safety to all of our suppliers, The North Face maintains a Restricted Substance List (RSL) that identifies the chemical substances that are restricted for our products for regulatory, safety or environmental reasons. We help our suppliers go beyond compliance to identify environmentally preferable chemicals and to reduce overall chemical use through efficient manufacturing processes and by leveraging bluesign technologies' apparel expertise.

Companies across the outdoor equipment and apparel industry share many of the same challenges. Spurred by our belief in the power of collaboration to develop solutions, we are working closely with our industry peers as members of the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) Chemical Management Working Group (CMWG). The group is focused on establishing shared approaches and tools for chemicals assessment and management. As a founding member of the OIA Sustainability Working Group, we contributed to the Eco Index, the foundation of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition's Higg Index, which provides a standard tool for measuring the environmental and social performance of apparel and footwear products.

Partnership with bluesign technologies

The North Face has partnered with the industry-leading experts at bluesign technologies to help our mills reduce their impact by using water and energy more efficiently and by addressing harmful chemicals at the fabric level. The bluesign® system provides a sophisticated, independent approach to reducing supply chain impacts in five key areas: resource productivity; air emissions; worker health and safety; water emissions; and consumer safety.

The North Face has worked to influence supply chain partners to engage voluntarily with the program. After an intensive audit, bluesign® experts provide each participating fabric mill with a detailed, individualized assessment that gives them insight into how to optimize their energy and water use per kilogram of fabric. The five years of program data above demonstrate a significant increase in efficiency at mills engaged in the program.

ENVIRONMENTAL COMPLIANCE

Through our parent company VF Corporation's global supply chain and compliance structure, we audit new suppliers to ensure that they meet our standards and we inspect all direct suppliers at least annually. Our conventional factory audit includes components that address health, safety, and environmental concerns, in addition to social compliance. We expect facilities to meet all applicable laws and regulations and to employ procedures that minimize air emissions, waste, energy and water use, and other significant environmental risks.

For more information on our social compliance program, see Social Responsibility.

ANIMAL WELFARE

The North Face is committed to ensuring the ethical treatment of all animals from which we source materials for use in our products. For example, we pioneered the Responsible Down Standard to protect geese and other waterfowl and the industry standard is now owned and managed by Textile Exchange.

We have an Animal Derived Materials Policy which uses the Five Freedoms as our guiding principles for animal welfare and the policy applies to all of our supply chain partners, covering other animal-derived raw materials like wool.

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What is The North Face Commitment? It's about The North Face sustainability initiatives and The North Face innovation initiatives. Discover more today!

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This is the information on north faces website about their sustainability practises so I will keep researching and see if they stick to these practises and if there’s more they could be doing.

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Sustainability isn't a side project. It's central to everything we do. From designing recyclable products for the next adventure to protecting wild places for the next generation, we're committed to exploration without compromise.

Sustainability isn't a side project. It's central to everything we do. From designing recyclable products for the next adventure to protecting wild places for the next generation, we're committed to exploration without compromise.

INITIATIVES

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Sustainability isn't a side project. It's central to everything we do. From designing recyclable products for the next adventure to protecting wild places for the next generation, we're committed to exploration without compromise. Sustainability isn't a side project. It's central to everything we do.

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Fjall Raven comp shop photos of garments I found in the Cotswolds store, they had a big variety of garments for woven but I really struggled to find any 100% Jersey garments in store. I had the same issue in all shops there are very few if any 100% jersey garments.

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North face labels I found in store on a few garments, all garments had swing tags and care labels, a few coats and t- shirts had labels printed directly onto the fabric which is much more sustainable.

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The north face garments I found online when I started looking for more examples of products they sell

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I watched Boohoos panorama broken promises documentary on BBC which was recommended to watch at the fashion enter presentation. It was interesting but also difficult to watch as my sister is currently a buyer for boohoo and works at the Manchester head quarter office. I decided to call her and ask for her experiences compared to the documentary which i have documented in my report.

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Fabric flaws task sheet we completed in class after going through the fabric flaw presentation and discussing possible flaws which could occur through production or at the cutting stage.

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Notes I took during the fabric flaws lesson to help with my sourcing strategy work

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Care label notes I took in class where we worked through some work sheets working out what each symbol meant on a care label

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Class notes I took for what could affect or weaken you fabric during production e.g different washing, trims or seams

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Class notes I took on factors which could affect fabric stability during production which we also discussed in class

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More class notes from care label requirements lesson and factors you’d test for during production

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The North Face has a behind the seams video explaining how they're making efforts to be more sustainable by turning plastic water bottles into their Denali jackets. They’re working to improve sustainability in 3 main areas: materials, dyeing and leftovers. They take 30 millions plastic bottles out of landfill each year to produce Denali jackets, they. Also use dry pellets to dye the yarn instead of the fabric which uses 50% less water and energy. For every 10 Denali jackets made they can make 4 more jackets from scraps, they also recycle any leftovers into other jackets.

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As The North Face increases the amount of recycled plastic in our polyester fabric, we provide a market solution for a growing problem - used water and soda bottles. We are also helping to reduce dependence on fossil fuels by reusing those materials already in existence. In addition, recycled polyester has a lower impact on air and water resources than virgin polyester.

Fleece Innovations

We're committed to improving the environmental performance of our products through innovations in materials development and manufacturing. We always try to concentrate our efforts on high volume products and materials such as the iconic Denali Jacket. Learn more by watching "Behind the Seams".

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As The North Face increases the amount of recycled plastic in our polyester fabric, we provide a market solution for a growing problem - used water and soda bottles. We are also helping to reduce dependence on fossil fuels by reusing those materials already in existence.

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A website I found useful when researching the laws around human rights and modern slavery in the fashion industry, I manly used this website to find information to include in my main work.

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Textile Testing: Importance, Methods and Techniques

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A useful website I found when researching different tests fabrics go through during the production stage

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Textile Testing: Importance, Methods and Techniques

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Textile testing is a significant part of entire textile world. It ensures that fabric as per your quality, thread counts and durability. Apart from it, textile testing has more benefits and advantages. Also, read various methods and techniques of textile testing.

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I found a book in the library on managing the retail supply chain which had lots of useful insights of how to efficiently run a fashion supply chain

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I found a book on supply chain strategies in the library really useful when learning and researching this brief in went into lots of detail about each aspect of the supply chain

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Garment Labelling Requirements for Clothing (Full Guide)

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I find sewport a really useful website when researching for projects, they have so much useful information all in one place and Its reliable information to help with projects. I found this page on label requirements really useful when i was designing my woven and jersey garment labels and researching what I need to include.

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Garment Labelling Requirements for Clothing (Full Guide)

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Discover what garment label requirements there are for different clothing types and how you can work with garment manufacturers to design care labels for consumer information.

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I took photo of a North Face coat I’ve had for a few years to complete a wearer trial, I took photos and measurements before and after washing the coat to see if it shrunk or product performance changed in any way.

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I found this book really useful when looking for fabric alternatives The North Face could look at using in their products as well as wash care, dying and finishing techniques.

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Whilst playing around with CLO3D I started adding seam allowances and notches, familiarising myself with different details I’d need to include on patterns in industry.

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We had a masterclass from Sascha Camilli who works for peta on animal rights in the fashion industry, as the North Face uses down and leather in some of their products I found this masterclass really helpful for new ideas to research further.

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I played around with various versions and designs of labels when designing my woven and jersey labels, I used procreate to create these labels and help me with my final designs.

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Notes I took in class to continue working on at home and ensure I’ve added the correct work to padlet

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Reconstructing our white shirts in class was so much fun i love using the industrial machines, I found the placket and collar the hardest getting all 3 layers of fabric to line up perfectly was tricky. I mainly struggled getting the sewing to be neat and level both sides either the front of back was always higher/ lower than the opposite side it took my 3 attempts to get it fairly neat and I’ll probably try again a home as id like it be industry standard and sewn perfectly.

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We visited the V&A Diva exhibition, this exhibition showcases the power and creativity of iconic performers across music, film, opera and tv. They provided us with headphones which played music from some artists we looked at such as Rihanna, Amy Winehouse, Pink and Adele. I have never been to the V&A museum so I really enjoyed visiting the Diva exhibit and seeing all the incredible outfits and the stories behind them. I found so many examples of silk so this would’ve been so helpful for project 1A but I still enjoyed looking at the variety of designs and silk blends used throughout garments. It’s continually expanding my knowledge and enabling me to optics when a garment is silk before checking the display cards to confirm.

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We had a masterclass today from all saints highlighting the importance f digital design software in industry. Not only is it more sustainable than making physical samples, it’s also cost effective and quicker to produce clothing. It’s becoming more widely used in the industry and will be vital to learn to stay up to date with consumer demands. I really enjoyed this masterclass and its made me really realise how important it is to learn not just CLO3D but a variety of design software such as Style3D, adobe and blender. I hope we get more time throughout the year to touch on these different softwares but i will also be making time to teach myself at home.

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We practised dart manipulation in class today, as I haven’t worked with darts much it took a few attempts to understand what we needed to do but I really enjoyed it once we got the hang of it. I have briefly touched on pattern drafting with darts before when I have made garments from the pattern magic book series I have at home. They’re very complicated books but I feel it’s an important skill set to have and I want to continue practising more complex and 3D sewing techniques.

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What are the Pros and Cons of Recycled Polyester?

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An interesting article I found about recyled polyester when researching fabric alternatives the North Face could be incorporating into their brand.

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About 49 percent of the world's clothing is made of polyester and forecasts show this to nearly double by 2030. Athleisure trend has led a growing number of consumers to be interested in more flexible, more resistant garments. But polyester is not a sustainable textile option, as it is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world. In short, the majority of our clothes come from crude oil.

Recycled polyester is obtained by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into new polyester fibre. To give an example, five water bottles yield enough fibre for one T-shirt.

Although recycling plastic sounds like an indisputable good idea, recycled polyester is far from being the best sustainable fashion solution. Here is why;

Recycled polyester: the pros

1. Keeping plastics from going to landfill and the ocean - Recycled polyester gives a second life to a material that's not biodegradable and would otherwise end up in landfill or the ocean. 8 million metric tons of plastics enter the ocean every year, on top of the estimated 150 million metric tons that currently circulate in marine environments. If we keep this pace, by 2050 there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish.

2. Recycled polyester is just as good as virgin polyester but takes less resources to make - Recycled polyester is almost the same as virgin polyester in terms of quality, but its production requires 59 percent less energy compared to virgin polyester. Manufactures of recycled polyester, aim to reduce CO2 emissions by 32 percent in comparison to regular polyester. In addition, recycled polyester can contribute to reduce the extraction of crude oil and natural gas from the Earth to make more plastic.

Recycled polyester: the cons

1. Recycling plastic has its limitations - Many garments are not made from polyester alone, but rather a blend of polyester and other materials. In that case, it is more difficult, if not impossible, to recycle them.

Even clothes that are 100 percent polyester can't be recycled forever. There are two ways to recycle PET: mechanically and chemically. Mechanical recycling is taking a plastic bottle, washing it, shredding it and then turning it back into a polyester chip, which then goes through the traditional fibre making process. Chemical recycling is taking a waste plastic product and returning it to its original monomers, which are indistinguishable from virgin polyester. Those can then go back into the regular polyester manufacturing system. Most recycled polyester is obtained through mechanical recycling, as it is the less costly of the two processes and it requires no chemicals other than the detergents needed to clean the input materials. However, through the mechanical process, the fibre can lose its strength and thus needs to be mixed with virgin fibre.

2. The process of recycling PET impacts the environment, too-The polyester chips generated by mechanical recycling can vary in colour: some turn out crispy white, while others are creamy yellow, making colour consistency difficult to achieve. Some dyers find it hard to get a white, so they're using chlorine-based bleaches to whiten the base, inconsistency of dye uptake makes it hard to get good batch-to-batch colour consistency and this can lead to high levels of re-dyeing, which requires high water, energy and chemical use.

3. Recycled polyester releases microplastics - Last but not least, some counter argue the affirmation that recycled polyester keeps plastic from ending in the oceans. They still do a little, as man-made fabrics can release microscopic plastic fibres - the infamous microplastics. According to a recent study by a team from Plymouth University, in the UK, each cycle of a washing machine could release more than 700,000 plastic fibres into the environment.

As with most sustainable materials, there are both positives and negatives but going down a sustainable route will help reduce the impact fashion is having on the environment.

If you're interested in learning more about the different branding materials, their applications and use cases, download our Packaging Innovation Toolkit to get all the insights.

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What are the Pros and Cons of Recycled Polyester?

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About 49 percent of the world's clothing is made of polyester and forecasts show this to nearly double by 2030.

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Vegan Down Alternatives Guide (Updated January 2019) | PETA

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After the peta masterclass I had a look on petals website for any articles which might be useful. For this brief, this article In particular was very useful as it listed lots of vegan cruelty free alternatives to down.

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What is down? Where does it come from? Down is the soft layer of feathers closest to birds' skin that helps insulate them from the cold. But how do these feathers make it from birds' bodies into jackets and other products? Is buying down products ethical? Read on for the answers to these questions and more.

In nature, ducks and geese are meticulously clean and love to preen their feathers to stay healthy-free of dust, dirt, and parasites-and to keep themselves looking nice for potential life mates. But in the down industry, they're kept in filthy, feces-filled enclosures with no way to stay clean or choose a mate. Ducks and geese typically have miles of territory to explore, but those used for their feathers are confined to cramped quarters with hundreds of others, which can lead to injuries that often go without veterinary care.

Did you know that ducks and geese mourn lost loved ones? On farms and in slaughterhouses, workers stab, behead, electrify, and kill birds' friends and family members right in front of them. Once the birds are presumed dead, they're dumped into scalding-hot water so that their feathers can be removed and sold to companies around the world.

Thankfully, many companies are using high-tech vegan materials that are better for birds and the environment.

Here are some great vegan down alternatives that'll keep you cozy without hurting animals:

Polartec

Stay warm and save lives by choosing the ultimate animal-free fleece. Polartec created modern synthetic fleece in 1981 and has since raised the bar by creating the world's first fully recyclable and biodegradable fleece. The company's Eco-Engineering initiative brings together fabric industry leaders Unifi and Intrinsic Advanced Materials to design a new generation of biodegradable polyester and nylon. Polartec is truly where innovative science and high-performing fabric meet.

PrimaLoft

PrimaLoft offers high-performance insulation and fabrics that are 100% vegan. Originally developed for the U.S. Army, it uses a proprietary microfiber structure to help retain warmth so that the body can conserve energy. Fibers just a fraction of the diameter of a human hair form a tight collection of air pockets that trap body heat and keep the cold out. PrimaLoft is used in the outdoors market as well as for home furnishings and bedding by over 500 brands. The company also introduced PrimaLoft Bio insulation made from 100% recycled, biodegradable fibers.

Black Diamond, Spyder, and adidas are among the retailers that offer PrimaLoft.

Plumtech

Plumtech, an exclusive Save The Duck padding, is a high-quality synthetic down made from recycled polyester using innovation that's completely animal-free. It provides outdoor enthusiasts with outerwear that allows easy movement and is durable, light, packable, and machine-washable. The material has a high level of breathability, which disperses the excess heat generated during everyday workouts, and it can trap an extremely large amount of air, preserving the body's natural temperature.

Thermal R

Marmot, one of the world's most highly respected technical apparel and equipment companies, created a unique polyester insulation called Thermal R, engineered to meet various cold-weather needs. This insulation combines multichannel and hollow fibers to provide maximum warmth while reducing the adverse effects of perspiration, condensation, and humidity. Thermal R is resilient, has an excellent warmth-to-weight ratio, and is highly durable. According to reports, Marmot's featherless line now accounts for 60% of the brand's sales.

PANGAIA

The PANGAIA collective's FLWRDWN is a fluffy, one-of-a-kind vegan down made from wild flowers. With every purchase of a PANGAIA product, a donation is made to help combat global plastic pollution.

Nudown

Down and wool trap air to keep animals warm, acting as thermal insulators. That's why Nudown made the business-savvy decision to skip stealing animals' down and wool and go straight to using air. It offers a line of jackets and vests with built-in inflatable chambers. You simply squeeze an in-pocket pump that forces air into the chambers surrounding your torso, and you can adjust the level of insulation whenever you need to.

3M Thinsulate

Machine-washable 3M Thinsulate is a unique insulation that works by trapping air molecules between you and the outside, providing a breathable and moisture-resistant experience. The microfibers are far finer than down feathers, so they can trap more air in less space, which makes for better insulation than down. There are a plethora of Thinsulate products designed for virtually all weather conditions.

This technology can be found at Spyder, Rossignol, and Carhartt.

Climashield

Climashield is composed of thousands of continuous strands of synthetic fibers in a distinctive interlocking solution. It maintains thermal efficiency in wet and humid conditions, is more cost-effective than down, and retains warmth over time. Its strands require minimal to no quilting, which allows products containing it to be less expensive. Its custom-fit insulation is used in sleeping bags, bedding, outerwear, gloves, and footwear sold around the world.

This technology can be found at Arc'teryx and Eddie Bauer.

37.5

The company 37.5 (formerly known as Cocona) created a great down-free material that uses active carbon derived from coconut shells that are blended with recycled polyester. This unique blend increases the surface area of the insulation-allowing it to dry fast, resist odors, absorb heat, and provide a high warmth-to-weight ratio.

This technology can be found at Homeschool Outerwear.

Sorona

Since the early 1900s, DuPont has been revolutionizing the world of fibers and polymers with fabrics and materials like Sorona. This bio-based fiber insulator is lightweight, breathable, warm, quick-drying, and resilient. Thirty-seven percent of its polymer is made using annually renewable plant-based ingredients. Its revolutionary Bio-PDO compound turns a formerly chemical process into an eco-efficient biological one, using less energy and producing fewer greenhouse gas emissions.

Grado Zero Espace

Grado Zero Espace is an Italian company that creates many vegan textiles, including VeganTech Insulation-a natural insulation composed of flowers, biopolymers, and aerogel. It is oil- and animal-free and is known for maintaining its breathability. It's also inexpensive and efficient. This technology offers protection against freezing temperatures, heat, and fire, while at the same time providing a high level of comfort.

Thermolite

Thermolite technology combines lightweight warmth and functional insulation with lasting durability. Thermolite is used in a variety of products, including outdoor apparel and sports gear, and it's engineered to keep you warm while helping to optimize your performance.

Polarguard

Polarguard is a continuous-filament, polyester fiber that's most commonly used in sleeping bags and outerwear. It is hypoallergenic and mildew-resistant and retains most of its loft and insulating properties when wet. Polarguard 3D is a softer fiber that's similar to down-without the cruelty to animals.

Thermore

Thermore, a producer of vegan thermal insulation for apparel and sleeping products, has been on the leading edge of thermal insulation technology and continues to be a pioneer in the development of advanced fibers that help maintain natural warmth. The company produces several thermal insulators, including Thermore Freedom, which consists of countless micro-gaps that move and adapt to the body with every movement.

This technology can be found at Brooks Brothers, Hugo Boss, and Aspesi.

Ingeo

Ingeo is a unique material made completely from plants. It's usable for a broad assortment of creative innovations, like plastics for food and beverage containers and consumer electronics, and it's a great down-free option for sleepwear and other apparel. Ingeo insulation is breathable, quick-drying, UV light-resistant, and hypoallergenic, and it boasts outstanding moisture management.

Bamboo

The bedding industry is now embracing pure bamboo for insulation in quilts, comforters, and pillows. This eco-friendly material is naturally antibacterial, odor-resistant, chemical-free, dust mite-resistant, thermo-regulating, hypoallergenic, and extremely breathable.

This technology can be found at Cozy Earth and My Organic Sleep.

MicroCloud

microCloud offers a wide variety of vegan bedding, including mattresses, quilts, and pillows. This down-like material is created with high-tech polyester fibers that provide comfort and superior support of the head, neck, and shoulders. It's hypoallergenic, machine-washable, and tumble-dryable. microCloud achieves an affordable price point without harming birds, and the filling offers greater health benefits than down does.

Flocus

Flocus is a revolutionary textile brand producing insulation made with fibers harvested from kapok pods found on tropical ceiba trees. This insulation is 100% sustainable without abandoning functionality. Flocus is insulating, lightweight, water-resistant, and fully biodegradable.

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What's Wrong With Using Down?

Some companies try to "humane-wash" their use of down by touting the bogus Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certification or using labels like "ethically sourced" or "non live-plucked," but these mean nothing to the birds who suffer and die in the down industry. The RDS claims "to ensure that down and feathers do not come from supply chains where animals have been subjected to any unnecessary harm." However, as documented in multiple PETA entity investigations, these "standards" are rarely enforced.

Next time you shop for a winter jacket or some new bedding, remember: There's no such thing as "ethical" or "responsible" down. If it was taken from a bird, someone suffered. The best way to end the exploitation of these sensitive individuals is to refuse to buy items containing down and instead choose from the countless innovative down-free materials above.

Send a powerful message to the cruel industry by pledging to be down-free:

Inspired to spread the word about down? Order some leaflets today.

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Feather-Free Vegan Down Guide (January 2022) | PETA

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Check out this guide to vegan down options, featuring feather-free jackets and bedding from companies like adidas and The North Face.

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Manufacturing In Cambodia " Cambodia Update 2022

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A website I found when researching manufacturing in Cambodia, it has useful information informing me that garments and footwear are the largest exported products to Cambodias overseas markets. Alongside sourcing from Vietnam I understand why The North Face chooses these far east countries to produce a lot of their coats and jackets from.

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Garment, footwear, and travel goods manufacturing are important components of the manufacturing industry and are considered the main engines of growth for the Cambodian economy. Garment manufacturing alone accounts for 80 percent of Cambodia's exports and employment of more than 600,000 workers, mostly women.

Import & Export in 2019 and 2020. (Source: MFAIC Dashboard, published 15 November 2021)

Garment (No.1) and footwear (No. 2) continue to be the two largest exports of manufactured products to Cambodia's overseas markets. Food and beverage is another prospective sector of export products to overseas and there is an opportunity for manufacturers to take advantage of the tariff exemption programs that have been accorded to Cambodia by the US (under GSP), the EU (under the EBA), as well as under the provisions of various FTAs that Cambodia has signed with China and South Korea.

Top Export by Product in Cambodia. (Source: MFAIC Dashboard, published 15 November 2021)

See also section underTrade - Facts, Figures, and Trends
We welcome service providers or subject matter experts for this sector to provide relevant insights and pertinent information, which shall be attributed to your business (subject to Aquarii's curation and edits).
To contribute to this section, please contact us here.

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Manufacturing In Cambodia " Cambodia Update 2022

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Garment manufacturing alone accounts for 80 percent of Cambodia's exports and employment of more than 600,000 workers, mostly women.

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When looking into The North Face manufacturing and testing I found a list of chemicals they won’t use in any of their products to meet legal requirements for outerwear apparel. This list is also displayed on their website under their manufacturing section which I think is great transparency for customers, to be able to have piece of mind that none of these chemicals will be in any products they may buy.

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The North Face sees regenerative cotton as biggest opportunity

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An interesting article backing up the research I found where The North Face is using BCI cotton in their garments and was the first apparel company to partner with  agricultural technology startup Indigo, to develop a more sustainable collection in 2022.

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The North Face is waking up to the practice of regenerative farming in its cotton supply chain. As Carol Shu, senior manager of global sustainability, explains, it not only has a positive impact on nature and resources, but is another critical step in addressing climate change impacts.
As the largest brand in VF 's outdoor segment, The North Face reported annual revenues of US$2.3bn last year, up 3% thanks to growth across all channels and regions. It currently operates around 200 stores globally, in addition to selling its products through partnerships, concessions and online.

With sustainability a key focus for the brand, its most recent endeavour places a greater emphasis on the farming ecosystem by sourcing more sustainable cotton from farmers deploying regenerative farming practices that improve or restore soils by adding cover crops, reducing tillage, and other practices such as rebuilding soil organic matter.

As the first apparel brand to partner with agricultural technology startup Indigo, the aim is to develop a collection that will hit shelves in autumn 2022 by working with growers who have transitioned to farming practices that draw down carbon from the atmosphere and restore soil health.

"Not a lot of people know what the term regenerative really means, so this is a good opportunity for us to adopt regenerative cotton in our supply chain," Shu explains

"We are obviously a very synthetics heavy business, we mostly use polyester and nylon, those are our top two materials - and then cotton is our third most commonly used material. We've already been working really hard on converting our synthetics to recycled content, we're making a lot of progress on that front; so figuring out how to source better cotton was really important to us as a next step and Indigo presented the perfect opportunity."

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Growers who implement regenerative practices are rewarded with a premium on the sale of their cotton and through third-party verified agricultural carbon credits that provide an additional income stream per tonne of carbon dioxide equivalents sequestered and abated.

Regenerative ramps up

Adoption of regenerative farming practices in the apparel and textile industry has been slow, but it is gaining in popularity.

Earlier this year, French luxury goods group Kering partnered with Conservation International to launch a new fund that aims to turn 1m hectares of farms and landscapes producing fashion's raw materials to regenerative agricultural practices over the next five years.

Timberland, another VF Corp brand, has also taken interest, aiming to source 100% of natural materials from regenerative agriculture in ten years' time.

The North Face believes the launch of regenerative products will help the company transition from recycled products that do less harm, to replenishing or having a positive impact on nature and the planet's resources. Shu says it has also helped the brand make deeper connections with the upstream end of its supply chain.

"Supply chains are always complicated. With Indigo and our cotton, we're really going further back in our supply chain than we usually go, so all the way down to a yarn spinner level. We have really strong relationships with our mills and cotton factories so we've built a new relationship with the yarn spinner too.

"That's a challenge but it's also our biggest opportunity, leveraging the partnerships we have in our supply chain and just growing those one step out of the bounds of the fabric mill. When you partner with folks that share your values it just makes everything a lot easier. The supply chain we've developed for this cotton is amazing. They all understand the importance of it and why. It's kind of game-changing for us."

At present, only a small amount of the cotton sourced by The North Face is from regenerative practices. The brand also uses organic cotton, much of it from India. "Our goal is to convert our cotton globally to recycled or regenerative. We have been increasing our usage of recycled cotton over the past few seasons."

The regenerative cotton programme will initially take place as a pilot, "just to ensure everything runs smoothly in our supply chain," Shu says, "because we are definitely disrupting normal practice with what we're doing with Indigo." The plan is to incorporate more of this cotton in the future.

Riding the pandemic wave

The brand's sustainability work has not taken a back seat during the pandemic, although with all the mandated closures in all of its regions there were inevitably unforeseen impacts on the supply chain. "The good thing is we were able to be pretty agile and work through it with help from our parent company."

In December 2019, The North Face issued its Science Based Targets, which included an absolute reduction of Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions by 30% by 2030, from a 2017 baseline year, focusing on farm-to-retail materials, sourcing operations and logistics.

"That's very aggressive and so it really holds us accountable and it also keeps us on this forward-facing path. No matter what, we have to keep making progress and moving forward."

Engagement over education

As an outdoor clothing company, customers of The North Face are more inclined to be shopping with sustainability in mind. But Shu suggests engaging, rather than educating, consumers can often be more effective.

"When we first launched our pilot beneficial wool collection in 2017, it was very difficult to figure out how to explain the carbon cycle and what carbon farming was to the consumer, so we kept it really simple. We created a really beautiful graphic and had one of our athletes, Margo Hayes, wearing a beanie in the photo that we posted on Instagram. Like that it caused attention and made consumers wonder what was so special about this wool. So you have to think about how you engage consumers in a way that will attract their attention. You draw them in and then you explain to them, what it is, and what is so special about it."

The pandemic has also led to a noticeable increase in interest in climate change and social issues from consumers - which ultimately places more pressure on brands.

"If you look at consumer insights on Gen Z and Millennials, it's pretty clear where their preferences are. With all the Greta's of the world and all the attention on climate change, people just expect companies to be doing better. It's an expectation, so you have to meet that expectation at the very minimum and stay relevant with your consumers."

In recent years, The North Face has placed more focus on chemical responsibility and has been working to replace Durable Water Repellency (DWR) chemicals with environmentally preferable options. It partnered with Bluesign Technologies to help its mills reduce their impact by using water and energy more efficiently and by addressing harmful chemicals at the fabric level.

It is also working to increase the amount of recycled plastic in its polyester fabric, and helped create the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) in partnership with Textile Exchange.

Clothing and textile waste is also high on the agenda. The brand currently has a Clothes the Loop programme running, which allows consumers to drop off their unwanted clothing and footwear at its stores in the US, the UK and France. The items are repurposed for reuse to extend their life or recycled into raw materials for use in products like insulation, carpet padding, stuffing for toys, and fibres for new clothing. Over 45,300 kgs of clothing and footwear have been donated to date.

In 2018, The North Face launched its Renewed programme, which enables the brand to sell its pre-owned apparel that has been washed, repaired and quality checked, at a lower price point. The programme has so far diverted more than 200,000 pounds of clothing from landfills. Last year this was extended, providing its designers with an opportunity to learn the principles of circular design and implement them into future brand collections.

Renewed called Remade is another initiative to tackle clothing waste, which involves upcycling garments and "frankensteining pieces together" so you can buy a completely unique jacket that you wouldn't find anywhere else.

But the idea of ensuring the longevity of an item of clothing goes back to The North Face's early days.

"We have had a warranty programme for 50 years now. Five years after we were founded we implemented the warranty programme. The average life of a product that goes through our warranty is seven years, so it is worn for seven years, we fix whatever is wrong with it, and hopefully that person is going to own it for another seven years. We're really focused on keeping products in use for as long as possible and getting folks to use our warranty."

'Exploration without Compromise'

Announced today (20 April), as part of the brand's new 'Exploration Without Compromise' vision, The North Face has committed to ensure 100% of the top materials it uses for apparel will be recycled, regenerative or renewable by 2025. While 100% of the brand's polyester and 80% of its nylon fabrics will be made with recycled content by 2023.

Other commitments include the acceleration of the sustainability of its operations, logistics and packaging, and the launch of its own fully circular apparel of converted franchise styles by autumn 2022. This includes the elimination of all single-use plastic packaging by 2025.

The 'Exploration Without Compromise' seal will easily-identify the brand's most sustainable products online and in-stores, as well as on Renewed circular products. To earn the badge - apparel, equipment, and accessories must be made with 75% or greater recycled, organic, regenerative and/or responsibly-sourced renewable materials by weight. If the product has a DWR finish, it must be non-perfluorinated chemicals (non-PFC) DWR.

Making a difference

Much of the innovation in sustainability is reliant on new technology.

On the regenerative farming project, for example, Indigo has been using satellites to help monitor the farmers' soil, which enables the impact of carbon farming to be measured. While this can be expensive, it "helps prove that what they're doing is making a difference."

"There's a lot of really exciting technology in the circular space as well," Shu adds. "Like helping to track the life of a garment over time, I think that'll be great. And then on the traceability side, there is technology helping to manage certifications and documentation for proof of recycled materials or organic cotton in a more streamlined way to make it easier for everyone."

While these are technologies The North Face is looking into for the future, for now the priority is leveraging consumers' interest in shopping sustainably, and doing a better job of engaging with them on why it is so important.

"How do you make better decisions when you're shopping for a product? It is one of the number of things you hear in consumer insights. Consumers don't know how to make a better choice so we need to make that easier for them."

But there is also untapped opportunity in the regenerative space. "Kering has come out with some really amazing work. Our sister brand Timberland has a lot of projects in the works too with regenerative leather. I think that's really exciting and is going to send signals to growers, land managers across the world that there is interest in this and they can become economically stable and profitable by doing these practices and really protecting their land.

"Regenerative products have the ability to shift the industry from simply 'doing less harm' to actually replenishing or having a positive impact on nature and resources, and as a brand that is committed to protecting the outdoor places we love to play, we believe this is another critical step in addressing climate change impacts in our supply chain."

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The North Face sees regenerative cotton as biggest opportunity

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The North Face is waking up to the practice of regenerative farming in its cotton supply chain. As Carol Shu, senior manager of global sustainability, explains, it not only has a positive impact on nature and resources, but is another critical step in addressing climate change impacts.

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As The North Face is part of the VF Corporation I decided to look on their website to see what information I could find out about their supply chains. They had lots of useful easy to find information not just about themselves but also the brands which they work with.

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VF Corporation outfits consumers around the world with its diverse portfolio of iconic outdoor and activity-based lifestyle and workwear brands.

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Notes I took during the All Saints master class to refer back to during this project, I really enjoyed this master class and found it so informative about the importance of 3D design software and how crucial it is in industry to be most sustainable and work more cost effectively.

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PPD mind map we completed in class with areas we’d like to develop over the next year, currently I’d like to complete this year and stay on with the FRA to do the sustainable fashion degree. As I’m currently fascinated with learning knitwear design I’m hoping that these qualifications will help me get a career in sustainable knitwear design.

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More abbreviations I found online which I found useful during this project and will use often when working as a garment tech.

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Some more abbreviations I found online which. Will be very. Useful during this project, especially when doing measurements of garments and the fit meeting.

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A reflective journal I have been keeping throughout this project detailing the different tasks we completed, how I planned my time to get work done and any problems I faced.

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Some photos I took when measuring my navy shirt to look at fit issues and if the measurements differed when the garment was laid flat and on the mannequin. The main fit issue is around the chest as it’s to tight and the shirt overall is slightly small.

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This is my sourcing strategy for The North Face, I have completed a comp shop looking at 1 woven and 1 jersey garment. I have look at The North Faces supply chain, Sustainabilty, testing, legislations and completed a swot and PESTEL analysis. I’ve also completed a wear trial with my own north face coat. I have really enjoyed this brief and feel like Ive learnt so much about a garments critical path and will continue building on this knowledge in my own time.