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https://duckworks.com/bluestone-plans/

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A aquest Padlet heu d'inserir vídeos, tutorials, manuals d'instruccions, recull d'imatges, ... on es vegi el procés de construcció de l'embarcació que voleu realitzar aquest curs.
Així que us toca fer un petit treball d'investigació.

A més heu de valorar amb les estrelles les publicacions dels vostres companys. Així entre tots podrem triar (dins del possible) la o les embarcacions que construirem.

Atenció: No podeu repetir el que ja hagin penjat els vostres companys!!

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Caiac de fusta

Caiac de poliestirè expandit

Taula de Paddle Surf

Canoa

Optimist

...

,

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Manual amb tot els passos a seguir per construir la Canoa

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Exemple: Canoa -> Vídeo del procés de la construcció

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Exemple: Canoa -> Vídeo del procés de la construcció

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A quest vídeo podem veure tots els passos que vam seguir per construir la Canoa el curs 21/22

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Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies

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En aquesta pàgina web hi han les instruccions, mesures de cada peça i documentació de tot el procés de com fer un mini vaixell funcional.

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Cómo construir un bote (con imágenes) - wikiHow

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Los botes pequeños son perfectos para paseos alrededor del lago. Se adecúan al techo de tu carro y en la parte trasera de la caja de carga de una camioneta, convirtiéndolas en algo perfecto para viajes de campamento espontáneos. Este...

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Aquí un video que documenta el procés de com fer aquest mini vaixell:

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Aquí un video que documenta el procés de com fer aquest mini vaixell:

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https://www.comohacer.info/moto-acuatica-de-facil-construccion/

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MOTO ACUATICA de facil construccion

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, introduccion:

Sabemos que son muchos los lectores que practican el saludable deporte del ciclismo por las calles, y para hacerles gozar aún más de las delicias, les sugerimos que lo practiquen también sobre el agua...

Sí; ya nos imaginamos que la admiración al leer habrá sido muy grande; pero, ¿por qué no hacer posible esta idea construyendo el acuaciclo ilustrado en estas páginas?

Dándole un vistazo a la ilustración de la figura 1, se puede apreciar el aspecto que presentará la máquina una vez terminada, así como también la forma en que trabaja. Se verá que se construye en parte con una bicicleta vieja. La pieza que lleva el No. 12 es una caja de engranajes colocada en forma tal, que al mover los pedales se hará girar a la hélice, para así conseguir la propulsión.

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, cómo manejar:

El manejo se hace por medio de un timón gobernado por cables que pasan a través de la barra del manubrio. Ahora, antes de seguir adelante, diremos dos cosas que es muy importante tenerlas en cuenta:

Primero, se necesita una bicicleta vieja. Esta puedo conseguirse en alguna bicicletería. Considérese que sólo es necesario el armazón y no las ruedas.

Segundo: se necesita una hélice y una caja de propulsión. La caja de propulsión tiene dos ruedas de engranaje colocadas en forma tal que una gira verticalmente y la otra en ángulo recto con la primera. Los engranajes se encierran en una caja que tiene un borde con agujeros para tornillos.

Fig.1.- moto acuatica de facil construccion:

Para conseguir estos engranajes, el "hobbista" puede dirigirse a algún taller mecánico o "chatarrita" de automóviles. La hélice deberá tener un diámetro aproximado de 384 mm.

Debe tenerse en cuenta también que las dimensiones de la hélice, la caja de engranajes y otras partes, varían proporcionalmente en las dimensiones con el armazón de la bicicleta. Todas las medidas dadas en los dibujos son aproximadas.

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, se comienza por el armazón:

Supóngase el lector que ya va a comenzar el trabajo; se toma el armazón de la bicicleta y se le corta la horquilla delantera. Se corta también la horquilla trasera que va desde el soporte del asiento hasta el cubo de la rueda, pero se deja la horquilla horizontal quepa desde el travesaño de los pedales hasta el cubo de la rueda trasera.

Se preparan las partes (4), las que son dos tubos de 1m 224 de largo por 30 mm. de diámetro exterior. Se conectan por un tubo similar (6) de unos 946 mm de largo, de modo tal que los tres tubos formen una H, una vez soldados.

Fig. 2.- moto acuatica de facil construccion:

Los soportes del frente (2) son de 18 mm. y de unos 624 mm. de largo. Sus extremos superiores se aplanan, redondean y perforan para recibir un pequeño bulón que pasa también a través del tubo frontal inferior del armazón de la bicicleta. Así se mantienen en posición estas partes. Los extremos inferiores se sueldan a la parte (4) a 276 milímetros de los extremos. Ahora, los soportes traseros en forma más o menos análoga se fijan los soportes traseros (3). Hay siempre un lóbulo perforado en el soporte del asiento al cual uno puede fijar los extremos superiores de los soportes traseros.

Fig. 3.- moto acuatica de facil construccion:

La parte (9) es un caño doblado en forma de U cuadrada de alrededor de 192 mm. de alto por 240 de ancho. Su objeto es soportar los extremos de la horquilla dorsal del armazón de la máquina. Estos extremos se soldarán a la U.

La caja de engranajes no se podrá describir ampliamente, pues razones de tamaños, tipos, etc., hacen que las variaciones sean bastante grandes de unas a otras. En general el eje de la hélice suele estar a 240 mm. debajo de la parte (4).

La parte (10) es una tira de hierro, de 30 por 18 mm., aproximadamente, que va soldada a la horquilla dorsal y ajustada de modo que la caja de engranajes pueda ser abulonada a ella.

La parte (11) es una pieza en forma de V de caño de unos 12 mm. de diámetro soldada a (4), soportando su extremo inferior una de las del eje de la hélice.

Fig. 4.- moto acuatica de facil construccion:

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, el timón:

A la pieza (4) se suelda otra hecha en ángulo recto con caño de 18 mm., la cual recibirá el timón. Este, se muestra en detalle separado en la figura 5. Para tal objeto, puede servir muy bien el timón de algún bote fuera de uso, o en su defecto, se lo puede construir con un trozo de roble de 12 mm. de espesor más o menos. El timón es cuadrado, teniendo 192 mm. de lado y por medio de espigas se le adaptará la pieza posterior que tendrá 36 mm. de espesor.

Las espigas se encolarán de modo que ambas piezas queden sólidamente unidas. Hay que hacer notar que la hoja del timón no tiene el mismo espesor en todas partes, sino que se afinará en los bordes, de modo que una sección de ella tendría una forma oval.

Una varilla cuadrada o redonda se pasa por la parte superior del acoplamiento posterior que le hemos hecho al timón propiamente dicho. Esta varilla tendrá una longitud aproximada de 216 mm. y llevará agujeros en ambos extremos, de modo de pasar por ellos las cuerdas que servirán de dirección.

Fig. 5 moto acuatica de facil construccion:

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, la dirección:

En la parte posterior del timón se insertan dos pitones grandes del modo que se puede apreciar en la figura, y otros dos se sueldan al tubo de hierro. Por medio de un bulón largo y fino se conectan ambas partes.

En el tubo superior del armazón de la bicicleta se colocan unas guías para las cuerdas de dirección; una polea del tipo que se muestra en uno de los dibujos, se fijará también en cada uno de los dos soportes traseros, aproximadamente en la mitad de su longitud; Atando las líneas al manubrio, se podrá fácilmente guiar la embarcación.

Con todo esto se completa la parte superior, excepción hecha de los "clips" que sirven para acoplar los flotadores. Los detalles de colocación se pueden ver en la figura 2, y creemos que no necesitan mayores explicaciones.

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, haciendo los flotadores:

Los flotadores se hacen completamente de madera. Se consiguen dos tablas de unos 12 mm. de espesor por 300 de ancho. Si no se puede obtener este ancho, habrá que encolar dos tablas más angostas hasta alcanzarlo. Luego, se hacen las ocho tablas divisorias grandes y las cuatro pequeñas cuyas dimensiones están indicadas en la figura 4.

Las divisiones, se aseguran a las tablas por medio de tornillos de bronce colocando un par de divisiones a 300 mm. de cada extremo. Es conveniente pintar todo esto con albayalde. Téngase en cuenta que de las dos divisiones grandes que van juntas, la del lado de afuera va biselada. Las divisiones pequeñas que van en los extremos, van biseladas también.

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, terminación:

Para poder seguir el trabajo, se deberá conseguir ahora una chapa grande de madera terciada de 1,5 mm. de espesor, que tenga su grano en sentido longitudinal y cuya longitud sea algo mayor que 1500 mm.

Con esta chapa se envuelve la porción central del flotador, y se clava con tachuelas de bronce, cobre o de hierro galvanizado al borde de la tapa y de las divisiones interiores.

Como una sola capa de madera no será lo suficientemente fuerte, se deberá colocar otra sobre la primera. Es conveniente también pintar primero su superficie interior. Luego, se cubren los extremos que tienen, como se ve, forma cónica. Hay que tener la precaución de que una vez colocada la chapa de terciado sobre ésta sobresalga unos centímetros de los extremos, a fin de emparejar posteriormente el trabajo. Naturalmente, estas partes exteriores se clavarán a las dimisiones interiores que se biselaron, es decir, las que están del lado de los extremos.

Fig. 6.- moto acuatica de facil construccion:

Los flotadores pueden ser alquitranados, pero es mejor pintarlos con una pintura de buena calidad, ya que el alquitrán, ensucia mucho en tiempo cálido.

Sólo bastan ahora unos toques para terminar el trabajo. Primero se limpia bien el viejo armazón de bicicleta empleado y se lo pinta con esmalte especial para bicicletas. Luego, después de ensayar la estabilidad de la máquina en varias posiciones, se adopta la más conveniente y se une el armazón al par de flotadores.

Moto acuatica de facil construccion, el soporte:

Para terminar, diremos que hay que hacerle un soporte al acuaciclo para mantenerlo fuera del agua, ya que si se lo coloca directamente en el suelo todo el peso de él reposará sobre la hélice, pudiendo llegar hasta arruinarlo por completo.

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MOTO ACUATICA de facil construccion

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Moto acuatica de facil construccion, introduccion: Sabemos que son muchos los lectores que practican el saludable deporte del ciclismo por las calles, y para hacerles gozar aún más de las delicias, les sugerimos que lo practiquen también sobre el agua...

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En la pàgina web adjunta hi ha tota la informació, planòls, intruccions i mesures per dur a terme la contrucció de un "mouse boat" funcional.

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https://plansmesser.s3.amazonaws.com/12ftJamesBoatStudyPlans.pdf

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The Drifter 12 is a small trimaran that can be paddled or sailed, and is perfect for exploring rivers, bays, and lakes. The rig is simple, using a windsurfing mast. The sail rolls up and is reefable to any size in seconds. The boat is steered with rudder pedals, so your hands are always free. The amas fit inside the mail hull, making the boat very compact for storage and transport. The Drifter can be car-topped or carried on a small trailer, and it takes about 15 minutes to assemble. It is very stable and easy to sail, tacks well, and is quite fast--great for kids or anyone who is learning how to sail. The boat is easy to build out of plywood, weighing about 100 lbs when assembled.

--Mark Gumprecht, designer
Basic Materials list

8 sheets 1/8" mahogany plywood
4 5/8" x 1 1/2" x 12' stringers ( spruce or fir)
2 5/8" x 3/4" x 12' stringers
4 1/2" x 1/2" x 8' stringers
3 2" x 4" x 10' clear spruce or fir for beams
3/4" spruce or fir for leeboard and rudder
13 yards 50" 4 oz. fiberglass
2-3 gallons of epoxy
15' windsurfing mast

Plans consist of a single PDF file of approximately 5 megabytes. There are 41 pages of detailed instructions with 50 color photos and 10 pages of drawings.
Click HERE for more information about Drifter Trimarans

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The Drifter 12 is a small trimaran that can be paddled or sailed, and is perfect for exploring rivers, bays, and lakes. The rig is simple, using a windsurfing mast. The sail rolls up and is reefable to any size in seconds. The boat is steered with rudder pedals, so your hands are always free.

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The Drifter 14 is a small trimaran that can be paddled or sailed with a simple rig using a windsurfing mast. The sail rolls up, and is reefable to any size in seconds. The boat is steered with rudder pedals, so your hands are always free. It takes about 15 minutes to assemble, and can be car topped, or carried on a small trailer. It is very stable and easy to sail, tacks well, and is quite fast. Great for kids, or anyone to learn how to sail. There is also room for an occasional passenger. The Drifter 14 is great for exploring rivers, bays, and lakes, and is easy to build out of plywood, weighing about 120 lbs when assembled.

--Mark Gumprecht, designer
Basic Materials list

10 sheets 1/8" mahogany plywood
4 5/8" x 1 1/2" x 14' stringers ( spruce or fir)
2 5/8" x 3/4" x 14' stringers
4 1/2" x 1/2" x 12' stringers
3 2" x 4" x 10' clear spruce or fir for beams
3/4" spruce or fir for leeboard and rudder
16 yards 50" 4 oz. fiberglass
3 gallons of epoxy
16' windsurfing mast

Plans consist of a single PDF file of approximately 5 megabytes. There are 58 pages of detailed instructions with 54 color photos and 12 pages of drawings.
Click HERE for more information about Drifter Trimarans

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The Drifter 14 is a small trimaran that can be paddled or sailed with a simple rig using a windsurfing mast. The sail rolls up, and is reefable to any size in seconds. The boat is steered with rudder pedals, so your hands are always free.

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https://duckworks.com/lisa-b-good/

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Product Description

Lisa B Good - Free Plans
Essential statistics

Length overall - 16'

Beam at trailer bed - 7' 6"

Beam at rubrails - 8'

Weight - about 2500 lbs

Draft - 5"

Headroom - 6' 5" at center

Power - 5-10 hp outboard

Speed - 5 kts downhill

Features
"Lisa B. Good" is the result of a discussion on the Yahoo Shantyboat Group. The design turned out to be an economy sized Shantyboat, about the minimum size that offers stand-up headroom, decent deck space, and long-weekend accommodations for a couple. I got thinking about the boat's overall length today. I'd build her 16 foot as drawn. That length is handy, because you can easily get lumber that long. But there's no reason why you couldn't splice the longitudinals and facias to add a few feet to the middle of the boat, if you needed more room. Just keep the ends the same and take the extra length for the cabin or the decks as you want. Lisa B. is a very simple boat, and construction will be particularly straightforward; should be a quick build. There are only two curves on the boat, the bottom of the hull, and the crown in the cabin roof. The wood is all construction grade lumber and plywood. Use is made of epoxy and glass, but just enough to ensure long life without rot or excessive maintenance.

"Lisa B. Good" has great lower decks. They're covered to keep the rain and sun off. The forward deck is wide enough to allow crew to pass in front of you while you're sitting in a deck chair. The aft deck accepts chairs comfortably. Make sure there's a proper safety net and lifelines up on the bow, especially if there are kids aboard. A kid could be run down and into the prop in seconds, with that square bow. Gives me the willies thinking about it. The upper deck is strong enough to allow a 200 pounder to walk up there, but it's not for continuous use. Freeboard is not excessive, but the bulwarks, freeing ports, and sealed decks will help in a hard chance. Lisa B. is stiff enough initially. A 200 pounder standing in one corner up forward will push it 3" lower than the other side, and drop the bow 2½" lower than the stern. She will right herself from heeling to about 40 degrees, but very shortly after that she'll go onto her side and stay there. Clearly a boat for sheltered waters.

This is one of the 8 detailed drawings included with the free plans Image
See the full arrangement drawing. The cabin is small but adequate, 9' X 7-6". There's room to set up a fullsized standard double bed, 4'-6" X 6'-6". The galley is compact. The fridge should be an icebox set out on the aft deck. The stove should be a propane camp stove. It might be best if the sink were a plastic dishpan. Deck chairs are suggested for interior seating. It's a more flexible arrangement, because you can use them on deck, and fold them up at night too. As drawn, Lisa B. has a head with an outside door, but it could be inside easily enough. A bucket would be the best head. And a 5 gallon bucket of warm water topside, fitted with a kitchen sink squirter hose, that would work better than anything else for a shower.
Materials
The engine is simple, an outboard kicker clamped onto the stern bulwark. I struggled with the steering, looked at motor wells, extended tillers. I give up. The best arrangement would be control and steering cables to a helm under the starboard forward window. Maybe have an external steering wheel too, so you can sit outside. The fuel tank should be a portable tank strapped down to the aft deck. Lisa B should be a great trailer boat, except at 2500 lbs dry we might wish she were a little lighter. The beam leaves just enough width for the trailer wheels, while staying below the legal 8-6". If you build a simple custom trailer, you can keep the height down and use her as a camper. She'd make a great hunt cabin too. You might even fit a little water tight well in her, and drag her onto the ice with a tractor for ice fishing. The mast is of course optional. But a fellow needs a way to fly the right flags; otherwise he's got no couth.
Leaks
Let's face it, Lisa B. isn't going to win any races. And if you try to dress her in aluminum siding and such like a houseboat, she'll just look amateurish. "Lisa B. Good" is a shantyboat, and she gets her charm from looking old-fashioned. So let her look the part. Use wood for the siding. Fit the mast and boom. Stow the anchor rode in a wooden barrel. Add a bit of gingerbread trim in the corners if you like it. Forget the varnished teak trim; paint it. Hang your coiled dock lines on the exterior cabin walls. Fit her with kerosene lanterns and a wood stove. If you want to doll her up, pay a talented local artist to paint a suitable scene on MDO plywood for you, maybe lumberjacks on a river drive. Hang that on an exterior cabin side. I guarantee folks will like the boat, and so will you. Beauty may be in the eye of the beholder, but I think Lisa B's got the looks!

Wood -
Well-dried construction grade softwood will do nicely for the framing. Exterior grade plywood should do for the hull. T1-11 textured plywood would be a natural for the cabin sides, but it's criminal how easily the stuff rots. If you use it, better brush on epoxy or polyester both sides before painting.

Fasteners -
Robertson (square drive) screws are now stocked in many building supply stores. They make them coated or stainless for building patio decks. With battery operated drills and these fasteners, nails are now obsolete. You can use the coated screws on the cabin framing and under the fiberglassed hull if you want to save a buck, but use the stainless to fasten the siding in place. I think I'd use the stainless everywhere. They're not that expensive.

Caulking and bedding Compound -
Use "Poly Seam-Seal" caulking (comes in a tube) for bedding and caulking everywhere above the waterline. It adheres well. It lasts, and you can paint over it. Silicone is useless. 5200 marine sealant is overkill.

Glue -
Use "Tite Bond III" exterior glue for joinery. It works very well and it's friendly. It's wonderfully waterproof too. You can use epoxy of course, but it's miserable stuff. So are the urethane adhesives, like PL Premium, that come in a caulking tube.

Filler Putty -
Use epoxy thickened with microsphere filler for crack and hole putty on exterior wood surfaces, and to fill in the weave on fiberglassed surfaces. Takes three days of warm weather to cure enough for sanding, but then it sands easily. Get the consistency right, sort of like peanut butter. Add enough microspheres so that the mixture doesn't sag. If it sags before it sets, you need more filler. For interior work that's to be painted, try waterproof sandable spackling compound. It's great stuff.

Fiberglassing -
I like 10 ounce glass cloth in epoxy to waterproof plywood. A thin mat will work too, but it won't go around the corners easily. Epoxy takes a few days to cure enough to be sanded. And it needs to be sanded before anything goes on top of it. Some fellows use polyester instead of epoxy, because it's friendlier, cheaper and it cures much quicker. But polyester doesn't stick if the wood it's on gets wet. You might be successful with it on the hull, however, since it's completely encapsulated. But I'd use epoxy. The top brands like WEST are the best, but they're too expensive. You can get by quite nicely with a $40 per gallon epoxy. Shop around. Once you've applied the fiberglass, you'll likely want to fill the weave in and sand the surface smooth. Use epoxy/microspheres for this. Bondo won't stay put on underwater surfaces. You can spend a month of Sundays doing this, filling and sanding, filling and sanding. Don't get carried away. You should be rolling your paint on afterwards, and that will leave a slight stipple finish anyway. She's a shantyboat, not a gold plated yacht.

Paint-
Use a two-part epoxy or two-part urethane paint for the decks, cabin sides, and roof. Sprinkle budgie gravel onto the wet paint for non-slip walking surfaces. Put it into a bottle with a plastic lid. Drill the top. Experiment with the hole size until it works well as a shaker. Don't pre-mix the gravel into the paint. Urethane paint won't chalk. Epoxy paint eventually will. Ship or industrial suppliers sell urethane paints for a lot less than retail boating supply stores. You don't want $400 per gallon Awlgrip here. You want something like Interlux "Interthane" at $50 per gallon. Some builder's supply stores sell two-part epoxy concrete paint, supposedly for garage floors. You can use the aforementioned paints on the hull topsides and bottom too, or you might use a good exterior gloss latex. Latex stands up surprisingly well, even underwater. Oil-based or enamel paints are useless on exterior surfaces.

Windows
Leaks are miserable destructive things, hard to find, harder to fix. With the hull and decks completely glassed, there's no excuse for the hull to leak ever. You want to glass the roof right down over the facia and the end beams for the same reason. And bed any attachments to the decks and roof generously with Poly Seam Seal. Goober up the screws generously too, before you drive them.
Doors
Hatches always leak, no matter how you make them or how much you pay for them. So don't put any hatches in the roof above the cabin, and don't put hatches in the lower decks. If you want a hatch to get topside, then put it over the fore or aft deck. The simple hatch detailed in the drawings will leak less often than most. You'll want to get below the cabin sole of course, and hatches inside the cabin need be little more than a piece of plywood. You can reach up under the decks from hatches inside the cabin. Don't forget the drip groove in the facias. And buy windows with a flange and bed under that too. Did I mention I hate leaks?
Tanks
I like aluminum windows, horizontal sliders if they're to open. The black anodized frames look sharp. As mentioned above, the household type with a flange works well. The glass should be at least tempered. Laminated safety glass is the best of course, but wouldn't that be overkill for a riverboat? New windows are expensive, but old ones are prone to leaks. You can likely frame in simple panes and come up with fixed windows that don't leak, especially under the overhangs on the end walls and in the doors. But you're not likely to be happy with home-made opening windows for the cabin sides.
Bilge Pumps
New custom doors are expensive. The plans show how to make doors that won't get loose and come apart, without having all the machine tools normally used. The trick is to use a single piece of 3/4" plywood, cut out the window opening, and then apply trim pieces with finish nails and glue. A bit of filler around the edges, a little caulking, some sanding and paint, and you're done.

I wouldn't put a fuel tank down there, but there's room in the hull for lots of water tanks - black water, fresh water, gray water, firewater, and all kinds of pumps, hoses, wires and switches. If you've got the money and the patience, go ahead. Just make sure your hatches are big enough to get them in and out. Metal tanks leak. Plastic tanks are better. I'm a bucket and jug man, myself. Life is too short for tanks and plumbing and pumps.

Do some thinking on whether you want limber holes through the longitudinals and one bilge pump, or three hull compartments and three pumps. Or maybe you want to glass in 1/2" ply dividers around amidships somewhere, to make 6 separate hull compartments. That way if you hole one, she would still stay afloat.
Tools
Know what I think I'd do? I'd make 6 compartments and have hatches enough to check them all, maybe cover two or four compartments with one hatch. That way, when I hauled her, I could open the hatches to air out the hull. I'd carry a manual bilge pump to stick into a compartment if needed. And I'd carry a prenailed plywood patch and a squeeze tube of some sort of goop.

In any case, if you don't sneeze from the bilge dust, there's a problem somewhere. Lisa B's bilges should always be right dry.

I don't know how handy you are with tools. But if you're not handy now, you will be when you're done, especially with that Skilsaw and the angle sander. You won't need many tools to build "Lisa B. Good". Let's see here:
Building Sequence

Carpenter's square

C-Clamps and bar clamps

Miter box

Cross cut hand saw

Rotary power hand saw (Skilsaw) with carbide combination blade and plywood blade

Sabre Saw (Hand Jig Saw)

Level

25 foot measuring tape

Battery operated drill, 9.6 volt or higher. (Makita makes drills with good keyless chucks and good battery systems.)

Twist drill set

Wood bit set

Combination drill/countersink/driver kit for screws

Bits for your drill to drive Robertson (square) and those cursed Phillips screws. Get them long enough.

Random orbital sander (Get one that takes stick-on sandpaper discs. The Velcro ones are useless.)

80 grit sandpaper discs for above

Angle grinder with rubber sanding attachment (You'll become an artist with this tool. It's wonderful.)

40 grit and 80 grit discs for above

Dust mask

Goggles

Safety glasses

Chalk line

Carpenter's apron

Two sawhorses

Portable, folding, clamping work bench (Workmate)

Extension cord

Doubtless I missed some, but that's most of it. Notice they're all hand tools.

No strongback, frames, moulds, or jigs. Not much different from building a small cabin, except for the glass/epoxy work, and the need to flip the partially built hull. You're going to drip paint and epoxy all over, so bear that in mind when you select a work place. If you'll be working over a lawn or gravel or dirt, then you might set up a couple of 8 foot 4x4s on blocks or posts. Get them parallel and level, about 8 feet apart. You can assemble the hull on them. Most everything on "Lisa B. Good" is square, so once you get the hull straight with the world, you can use a carpenter's level to frame up the cabin, which is a great time saver.
Paul Browne, CC&BW

Glue up and cut out the four hull longitudinals.

Get them up side down, spaced right and level.

Install the bottom frame cross pieces.

Install the bottom plywood. It should take the bend.

Fill any gaps and screw holes on bottom and sides with epoxy/microspheres mixture.

Round the bottom edges with angle sander.

Sand bottom and sides with orbital sander-80 grit.

Glass bottom and sides.

Fill weave with epoxy/microsphere mixture.

Orbital sand 80 grit.

Paint bottom. Roll it on.

Flip work over and level it up.

Install the beams, the hull ends, and the hatch framing.

Now's your chance to paint the inside, if you're going to do it. Use epoxy paint.

Deck it over.

Install 2X6 plates and fillet the outside corners.

Fill any gaps and screw holes with epoxy/microspheres mixture.

Round the hull edges with angle sander.

Orbital sand 80 grit.

Mask and tarp lower part of hull sides.

Glass decks and outsides of plates.

Frame and sheath cabin.

Install cabin roof beams.

Install facias both sides.

Install beams for overhangs.

Screw on upper decking, don't glue.

Fill any gaps and screw holes with epoxy/microspheres mixture

Round the roof edges with angle sander.

Sand with orbital sander-80 grit.

Mask and tarp off cabin and hull.

Glass roof down to bottom of facias and end beams.

Fill weave on decks and roof with epoxy/microsphere mixture.

Orbital sand 80 grit.

Paint. Roll it on. Apply grit for non-slip.

That's the heavy stuff. The rest is straightforward finish carpentry, plumbing, painting, and fitting.

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Essential statistics Length overall - 16' Beam at trailer bed - 7' 6" Beam at rubrails - 8' Weight - about 2500 lbs Draft - 5" Headroom - 6' 5" at center Power - 5-10 hp outboard Speed - 5 kts downhill Features "Lisa B.

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https://duckworks.com/wanigan-free-plans/

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Product Description

Wanigan (Free plans)

BY WESTON FARMER

As old as boating in America is the garvey design It's no wonder. These shoal-draft work horses combine super-simplicity with rugged carrying ability

This utility garvey was designed to fill a need for a simple work scow anyone can build to use in a summer camp. You can haul rocks with her, fish out of her, beach her easily. The garvey is a gussied-up scow. The name is a local one, in use on the Jersey marsh reaches, where the water is thin, money sometimes thinner, and where the scow type of hull has for generations blossomed forth as the "garvey"-plebeian, often homely, always plain, but what a work horse!

But even in this simple design there were some problems. I knew she'd have to be trailable, whereas the true garvey is heavy. She'd have to be fine-lined enough to move with from 3 to 7 hp kickers, and she'd have to have the carrying power of a north woods wanigan-a lumberjack's store boat-to lug the camping stuff Joe Doakes would.

How to meet these conflicting requirements may not loom large now, but. they did at first. I was sitting on a cedar stump in my yard after supper, when the answer came to me. There, before me, bottom up on the muskeg, was a boat I have loved for 46 years- Badger, about which I wrote and the design for which I presented in the 1956 boatbuilding annual.

Badger had the feel I wanted this new garvey to have. Here was a boat sized by some ancient master in the old Toppan Dory shops. I'd cruised her into every pothole from Duluth to Rossport, and loved her. Notwithstanding some purely dory traits, such as crankiness until loaded, she has given more pleasure to several owners than any other boat I can recall offhand.

Right there in the cool shadows of the forest I flopped her right side up, stood in her, and my feet felt all the old quirks she had. So I took a Swede saw, knocked off her top strakes for firewood-they were punky and she had to go sometime- and stuck laths in the muskeg to give enlarged beam to the floor area between chines, tilted the lath to proper angles for stiffening the hull up under burden, and, transferring the resulting measurements to my notebook, sketched the profile and deck plan of the boat presented in the plans.

She's thus part dory, part garvey. and part north woods wanigan. Tbe combination of work-horse pedigrees back of her should produce a fine boat.

To download Wanigan free plans click HERE.

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BY WESTON FARMER As old as boating in America is the garvey design It's no wonder. These shoal-draft work horses combine super-simplicity with rugged carrying ability This utility garvey was designed to fill a need for a simple work scow anyone can build to use in a summer camp.

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https://duckworks.com/light-trow-plans/

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Els nens, de 9 i 11 anys, havien estat perseguint el seu pare per un vaixell propi durant anys. El peu de 30 de la família era massa per a ells, és clar, però anhelaven un vaixell propi. Un dia, el nen d'11 anys va entrar al taller del pare com un gat amb un conill, arrossegant una vella plataforma de vela i preguntant: "Pare, ens pots construir un vaixell? Mira, tinc la vela i tot". '

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Product Description

Wildcat Free Plans

Free plans. To download the file, clickHERE

Respected boat designer John Welsford challenged me with this brief:

'The kids, 9 and 11 had been hounding their dad (a fairly handy guy with tools) for a boat of their own for ages. The family's 30 footer was too much for them of course but they lusted after a boat of their own. One day the 11 year old came into dads workshop like a cat with a rabbit, dragging an old sailboard rig asking, "Dad, can you build us a boat? Look I've got the sail and everything." '

Naturally, it got me thinking. My kids are a few years away from their 11th and 9th birthdays, but this scenario is not too hard to imagine and could well be with us soon.

Being a parent, my first question is this: 'OK - where did you get that sail young fella?' Having sorted that one out to my satisfaction, I think there's little doubt that I'd build the boat. The rig accounts for a large fraction of the work involved in a small boat, and if the lad's spent his pocket money on a usable second-hand sailboarder's foil... Well! How could I say no?

Now a lad of 11 years and a girl of 9 years want something that's faster than the boats their peers are sailing - or at least it must be able to keep up with them. As a rather protective father, I want this boat to have the right amount of bouyancy to allow them to regain their boat after a ducking. Also, I don't want it be easily pooped by sea or a motorboat's wake. These kids may be full of beans, but they can also be frightened more easily than they admit.

A sailboard rig is going to be a winner on looks and also efficiency, but everything else about this boat has got to look cool and be efficient too - in order to match that sail in the kids' minds, even the daggerboard and rudder have got to have a little 'something' about them. It also has to be a sit-on boat rather than a sit-in one. The basic dimensions close I have chosen are close to those of a couple of plastic mass-produced designs aimed at the young and intended for the same sort of purpose as here: I have selected a hull length of 11ft, beam of 4ft, and a 5.5square metre sail (about 59sq ft).

My guess is that this boat calls for a wacky metallic flake paint finish but I'll let the kids choose - but in return I will insist they provide most of the elbow grease required to make whatever finish they choose.

Another issue is that as the kids get older I think there could be some demand for a more challenging rig at some later point, so it would be good to allow for flexibility in the positioning of the mast relative to the rest of the boat - and that will also be useful with a sail that is going to be an unknown quantity.

As to the pooping I mentioned earlier, I have a choice: a transom or a raised cockpit floor that drains to an open stern. For simplicity's sake I think I prefer the transom, although I know that the fashion these days is for the raised floor. Hopefully, we can live with one part of this boat being that's just a little short of cool...
The build
I propose a build that's a little unusual. The principle is an eggbox construction that starts with a kind of form that ultimately becomes part of the boat. It starts with cutting out the inner sides of the bouyancy tanks, and attaching and gluing an internal batten, and then assembling these together with the in-cockpit frames. Then the flat bottom section, transom and bows are fitted, attached and glued. If the construction sits flat on a flat floor, and the square-cornered flat bottom sits straight on its supports, the builder can be sure of a straight boat.

Next, a mast support 'box' fabricated from 1/2in ply and 1in battens is screwed and glued into place between the two side bouyancy tanks. This strong structure is intended to be adapted as required to accommodate a range of mast and rig options - including schemes developed to support a sailboard rig as in this project - the idea is that the lid of the box is bolted into place and can be removed and the lid and box can be modified or replaced as the new rig requires.

And then we stitch and glue the chines to the flat bottom section in the conventional way, remembering in the process to include the bouyancy tanks' internal framing as shown in the sections at 22in, 37in, 66in and 99in.

At this point it would be reasonable to deck over the tanks from bows to stern.

Anyone who has built almost any kind of small sailing boat will find the centreboard case absolutely conventional. However, the rudder is a departure from the norm - its geometry is intended to allow the blade to be lifted from inside the boat with a simple tug on the tiller, and replaced with a quick push, thus eliminating the usual lines, which can get stuck or tangle. I've sailed factory boats where this kind of arrangement has worked well, and although I haven't tried building an arragment like this myself, I'm sure it will work for us home builders, so long as we can obtain a good strong section of moulding.

The last piece of woodwork is likely to be the foredeck; the plans show suitable profiles for the foredeck's supports at the bows and at 33ins. I think that this can be marked out most effectively by making and attaching the profiled deck arcs, and then tacking a piece of 0.25in/6mm ply into place to be marked out before attaching. A nice touch would be to add the sweeping foredeck sections running back to the side-decks as drawn - these can be done by drawing large arcs onto the plywood using a pencil, drawing pin (thumb tack to you over-the-ponders), and string. Once the arch profiles are attached, it should be possible to tack the half-sheet into place so that it can be marked out. The sweeping arcs from the foredeck to the main deck can then be marked out to taste using a pin, a pencil and string.

The main drawing Wildcat.dxf should be self-explanatory; if you need dimensions that don't come straight out of the panels (hopefully there shouldn't be too many), they can be take easily from the CAD drawing. Sketches.dxf is a couple of sketches of alternative conventional rigs that should work perfectly well. Panels sheet 1.dxf and Panels sheet 2.dxf give the coordinates for marking out the 6mm ply components of the hull. Panels sheet 3.dxf is a marking out plan for the 12mm components. Panels sheet 4 gives the approximate form of the decking, which should go into place last and should be traced to fit the boat rather than measured and cut to this drawing.

Wildcat.hul is a Chine Hull Designer file - links to downloads for the software for this and for a suitable CAD package may be found at my website at http://home.clara.net/gmatkin/design.htm
The rig
New Zealand designer John Welsford has suggested how it might be done: 'A sailboard mast is designed to be supported on a swivel at the heel and to have the main stress taken through the luff of the sail and the aft point for the wishbone, and so they are nowhere near strong enough for a free standing mast as shown - but that can be worked around. Sailboard masts are roll-formed over a mandrel and are tapered. So it should be possible to take a broken mast (there are lots of those about) and cut a section of a size that will sleeve nicely inside the lower section of the another mast. It must go up about 3-400mm past the wishbone and you need to cut the top end at an acute angle with the high side to the foreside of the mast to avoid a sudden increase in stiffness (which would be a stress riser in engineering parlance). Then glue the doubler in with epoxy resin putty or good old WEST glue. Do be careful to wear gloves, when handling broken or cut carbon spars the ragged edges are super sharp, and do degrease the surfaces to be glued with acetone, MEK or similar.

Copyright Gavin Atkin 5th October 2001, email: gmatkin@gmail.com

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Free plans. To download the file, clickHERE Respected boat designer John Welsford challenged me with this brief: 'The kids, 9 and 11 had been hounding their dad (a fairly handy guy with tools) for a boat of their own for ages.

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https://duckworks.com/julie-skiff-plans/

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Product Description

West Mersea Duck Punt PDF Free Plans

A recent letter from Rusty Knorr:

How does one get boat plans onto the Duckworks website? I was thinking that since John Milgate has passed away, and before passing gave permission for his "West MerseaDuckpunt" plans to be freely distributed, that they should be more readily available, and Duckworks seems like a perfect platform to get them into as many hands as possible. I would love to sail with a fleet ofDuckpuntslike the guys in Mersea do! My boat is the most interesting, challenging, and rewarding boat I have ever sailed, I would love for others to share that experience.

Here is my YouTube playlist-

And here is my boat build blog-

They really are fun boats! What other boat can you sail in 6" of water? Let me know what you think, plans below. There are also stitch and glue plans adapted by Flo-Mo available online.

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A recent letter from Rusty Knorr: How does one get boat plans onto the Duckworks website? I was thinking that since John Milgate has passed away, and before passing gave permission for his "West MerseaDuckpunt" plans to be freely distributed, that they should be more readily available, and Duckworks seems like a perfect platform to get them into as many hands as possible.

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Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies

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https://planskohler.s3.amazonaws.com/Dinghyplan.pdf

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Product Description

"Fritz" a Tender

Free plans. To download the file, click

Here is an easy to built small dinghy. 2 m (almost 8 feed) long with a weight of 18 kg ( 60lbs light). The boat served us well on our 11 year journey on our PELICAN catamaran. I could row it till wind force 7 when we where at anchor. And we where more for anchor as in a port. So for shopping, going out, fun we had to use the tender. I never sailed the boat, or used an outboard it was always rowing. The plan shows a rig. If you build it as a tender it is not necessary to build the the daggerboard or daggerboard case.

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Free plans. To download the file, click Here is an easy to built small dinghy. 2 m (almost 8 feed) long with a weight of 18 kg ( 60lbs light). The boat served us well on our 11 year journey on our PELICAN catamaran.

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How to Build a Boat out of Plywood (15 ft, 4.5 m Dinghy)

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While I was living in the Philippines from 2002 till 2013, I decided to build a boat from plywood for myself. Luckily I took some pictures from the building process and put them together for a slide show video on YouTube. The video became a great success and has still many visitors every day.

While the video only shows pictures with some background music, I would like to explain some more details about the techniques I used in the building process on this website.

The boat I wanted to built, was supposed to be a dive boat, that would be able to bring me and maybe some friends to the reef in front of our house and to some other dive sites in the area.

Building a Simple Boat First

However, to try my skills and learn the techniques of boat building, I decided to build a very simple canoe first before I approached the bigger one. The plans for canoe I found for free in the internet and all I had to do was to cut the two side panels and the bottom after the plan and stick them together with fiber mat and epoxy resin using the stitch and glue method.

This was the simple and easy to build canoe I built first

To strengthen the form and the boat, battens were glued to the upper edge of each side panel and the raw buddy of the boat was done.

Will The Plywood Last?

To make the plywood real waterproof, the whole body must be painted with 2 - 3 coatings of epoxy resin. Finally the boat would get a painting with acrylic or epoxy paint.

After the canoe was done and successfully tested in the sea I started to build my dive boat.

I call it a dive boat but after the plans it is actually called a fishing punt or you may also just call it a skiff.

How long does it take?

Although I assembled the canoe in a few days, it took me several weeks for the second larger boat to finish. But you can also do it in a week or so if you stay on it.

After all I can say it is really fun to build your own boat and you may want to build even more but don't know where to put them...

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While I was living in the Philippines from 2002 till 2013, I decided to build a boat from plywood for myself. Luckily I took some pictures from the building process and put them together for a slide show video on YouTube. The video became a great success and has still many visitors every day.

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https://www.comohacer.info/velero-como-hacer-un-velero-o-prao-tipo-catamaran-o-triamaran/

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El deslizador es un tipo de embarcación muy recomendable, de construcción relativamente fácil y más seguro que cualquier barco. Por supuesto, no es una embarcación rápida, pero sí muy adecuada para navegar en aguas de poca profundidad o infestadas de vegetación y se presta especialmente para usar en ríos torrentosos.

Las figuras 1 y 2, que son vistas laterales y frontales, dan una idea clara de la construcción. Se empieza por hacer los pontones, que consisten en dos tablas clavadas a las divisiones verticales A-B.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, materiales:

Las tablas se rebajan en punta en los extremos delanteros, de proa; en los extremos traseros, a popa, se rebajan dejando una superficie plena, de 5 cm. de ancho, para colocar los timones. Los montantes C-D se clavan en los extremos.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, Los pontones:

Las divisiones se cortan de madera de 5 x 10 cm., cepillando los bordes exteriores en la curva de los costados. Todos los bordes externos se aplanan, si es necesario con cepillo, de suerte que los lados de los pontones se adapten satisfactoriamente, sin dejar aberturas.

En E, se encola un bloque cuadrado de 5 cm., bajo el medio de la tabla de cubierta, para asidero del tornillo de gancho destinado a sujetar los estayes del mástil.

El centro de éstos se marca mediante una cruz encima de cada tabla, como guías para insertar los ganchos. También se trazan líneas a lápiz al través, directamente encima del centro de las piezas divisorias para saber exactamente su posición. Esto servirá al fijar, después, las piezas transversales.

Fig. 1.- Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, Buena madera terciada:

Es menester adquirir madera terciada de buena calidad, que se preste para doblar en curva, y se corta en tiras, con el hilo de través, a fin de facilitar la operación de curvar. Los bordes externos de las tablas, divisiones y montantes de proa y popa se cubren con pintura espesa, se pone encima la madera terciada y se clava cuidando que haga junturas bien cerradas.

Cualquier juntura en los costados debe coincidir sobre las piezas divisorias. En los extremos delanteros de los bordes de la madera terciada deben unirse perfectamente, sin intersticios, y en los extremos de popa se igualan nivelando con los montantes D. La figura 3 muestra un detalle de construcción de los pontones.

Es preciso cubrir con algo los costados de los pontones, por ejemplo con calicó, porque de lo contrario el agua arruinaría a la madera terciada. Para el objeto se cortan tiras, bastante largas para que alcancen a todo el largo de cada costado y con un excedente de 2,5 cm. arriba y abajo, para doblar.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, el Forrado:

Después de dar a los costados una mano de albayalde espeso, se extiende encima el calicó, frotando para que se adhiera bien y no haga arrugas.

En los puntos de unión del material se dobladilla juntas las dos telas, a popa y proa, y se clavetea con clavitos de latón.

El excedente de 2,5 arriba y abajo se pega encima para mejor sujeción. Las partes curvas se recortan para evitar arrugas.

Entonces se cortan las piezas transversales, F-G, de unión entre los pontones, y se atornillan en posición. Dos tornillos bastarán a cada lado, los que se insertan en agujeros de guía hechos de antemano.

Fig. 2.- Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran

Para esto no se emplean tornillos ordinarios, sino tornillos especiales, como el que ilustra la figura 7, de 10 cm. de largo, que se insertan con llave de tuerca. Estos tornillos, de cabeza cuadrada, pasando por las piezas transversales, se alojan en las divisiones A-B, sirviendo de guía para esto las líneas trazadas a lápiz previamente sobre la cubierta.

Para cubrir los bordes dobladillados del calicó, se clavetean tiras cepilladas de madera de 1 por 2,5 cm. en los bordes superiores e inferiores, como en la figura 4. En los bordes curvos se emplean tiras más anchas, aserrando los bordes exteriores en la forma curva correspondiente.

Antes de poner estas tiras, su superficie inferior se cubre con pintura espesa a fin de impermeabilizar las uniones.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, los timones:

Los timones se cortan de madera de 12 mm. de espesor, preferiblemente madera dura como roble u olmo, con el hilo en sentido longitudinal, y se abisagran a popa de los pontones, como en la figura 5, empleando bisagras del tipo alargado que muestra la misma ilustración. Para que funcionen libremente, se redondean los bordes traseros de los timones, dejando un espacio intermedio de 5 mm. entre el timón y la popa.

En el centro de cada timón se inserta un sólido tornillo de ojo, en el borde. Los timones van conectados entre sí con una varilla de hierro de 3 x 9 mm. A la altura del borde de cada timón, estando éstos rectos, se perforan sendos agujeros en la varilla de conexión, para insertar a través de éstos los tornillos de ojo que van en el centro de cada timón.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, Mecanismo de gobernalla:

En los tornillos de ojo se atan cordeles para gobernar, cruzados de suerte que el cordel atado al timón derecho vaya al lado izquierdo de la embarcación, y viceversa. Los extremos de estos cordeles se pasan por tornillos de ojo o pequeñas poleas fijos en los costados de la plataforma, en puntos adecuados.

Entonces se pintan los pontones, aplicando un par de manos de albayalde de la mejor calidad se esmaltan las varillas de conexión y se engrasan las articulaciones de las bisagras.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, La plataforma:

Consiste en un cuadrilátero de madera, formado por cuatro tablas, unido a un piso de tablas gruesas, machimbradas, con tornillos. Nótese que los extremos delanteros de las tablas laterales son curvos y que estas tablas, de 15 cm. de alto en la parte delantera, son rebajadas hasta 10 cm. de alto en la parte posterior, formando declive. La figura 6 muestra parte de la plataforma y cómo va sostenido el mástil en soportes.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, Los soportes:

Cortados de madera de 2,5 cm. de espesor, son de 10 x 30 cm., de la forma que muestra la misma ilustración. El superior va atornillado a la tabla delantera de la plataforma y el inferior, al piso. En ambos se perfora un agujero del mismo diámetro del mástil, para que calce justo.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, El asiento:

Este es formado por una tabla de 22,5 cm. de ancho y no menos de 2,5 cm. de espesor. Para comodidad conviene poner un respaldo, que es una tabla transversal atornillada a dos montantes fijos a los costados. Estos montantes van ligeramente inclinados hacia atrás y atornillados por debajo a la tabla de asiento, como muestra la fig. 8.

Terminada así la plataforma, se fija con tornillos de tuerca sobre los listones transversales.

Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran, El mástil y el botavara:

El mástil es un palo recto de abeto o bien bambú, aproximadamente de 5 cm. de diámetro en la parte inferior, adelgazado hacia arriba hasta 3 cm. en el tope.

El botavara es similar o un poco más delgado, digamos, de unos 3 cm. de diámetro. En cada extremo de éste se inserta un tornillo de ojo. Para enganchar el botavara, se inserta en el mástil un tornillo de gancho, como se ven en la figura 1.

En el tope del mástil se fija un gancho para colgar una polea destinada a izar la vela. Un poco más arriba, a cada lado del mástil, se inserta un tornillo de gancho para atar los estayes. Ganchos similares se insertan en el botavara, como se ve en la figura 1. Esta ilustración muestra también cómo se colocan los estayes, que son cordeles fuertes.

Calicó se puede usar para la vela, un patrón de la cual se corta en papel. Este trabajo es fácil, si se hace correctamente. Se pegan con engrudo algunas hojas de papel hasta formar una superficie suficientemente grande, en la que se marca la línea a-b en un corte.

A la distancia correcta de b, se marca el punto c, y de ahí, a ángulo recto de a-b se traza la línea c-d. Se conectan los puntos a-d y b-d, y se corta.

Entonces se extiende el calicó, sin arrugas, se coloca encima el patrón con el borde a-d sobre la guarda de la tela, se prende con alfileres y corta el calicó, dejando un excedente de 2,5 cm. para dobladillos.

En cada ángulo se pone un pedazo de material para reforzar las esquinas, y se dobladilla alrededor, insertando cordel en los dobladillos a-b y b-d. A intervalos de 20 cm. se fijan ojales de latón para ligar al botavara y al mástil.

Se requerirán dos anchos del material para obtener el ancho total de la vela, y la costura de unión correrá paralela al borde a-d.

Así queda terminado el deslizador, excepto pequeños detalles. Toda la plataforma recibirá dos manos de pintura o barniz; también se barnizan el mástil y el botavara. Junto a la base del mástil se fija un pedazo de vara de madera, para atar ahí el cordel utilizado para izar la vela. Un pedazo similar de vara se fija a un costado de la plataforma, para sujetar el cordel que gobierna el movimiento del botavara.

Fig. 3.- Velero - como hacer un velero o prao tipo catamaran o triamaran

Deja tus comentarios sobre: Velero - como hacer UN VELERO o PRAO tipo CATAMARAN o triamaran

Velero - como hacer UN VELERO o prao tipo CATAMARAN o triamaran

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Velero - como hacer UN VELERO o prao tipo CATAMARAN o triamaran

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El deslizador es un tipo de embarcación muy recomendable, de construcción relativamente fácil y más seguro que cualquier barco. Por supuesto, no es una embarcación rápida, pero sí muy adecuada para navegar en aguas de poca profundidad o infestadas de vegetación y se presta especialmente para usar en ríos torrentosos.

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Aquest és més o menys com quedaria...

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https://duckworks.com/scow-420/

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No sé, pero "ta bueno". 😎🤙

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Product Description

Trifecta Plans PDF
3 SIMPLE MODULAR BOATS THAT CAN BE NESTED
AND EASILY STORED ON-BOARD SHIP,
OR IN AN RV, SUV, TRUCK and GARAGE.
Less than 5 feet long for transport.
INTENDED AS BRING-ALONG ROW or PADDLE BOATS,
FOR USE ON ALL INLAND WATERWAYS.
AMPLE FREEBOARD AND SAFETY BUOYANCY .
EACH IS CAPABLE OF CARRYING 1 ADULT COMFORTABLY,
PLUS SOME GEAR.

All use only 1 sheet of 1/4â€ ply, and some
1/2â€ ply for the bulkheads.
Finished weight less than 50 pounds.
Can be built for about $125

EACH IS DIFFERENT, EACH IS BUILT THE SAME WAY!

Trifecta is a compilation of my latest designs for simple to build, single occupant boats. There are 3 designs, all different, yet much the same, and all built with the same instructions. They all require one sheet of 1/4 inch ply, and about a quarter sheet of 1/2 inch plywood to complete, and use the Tape & Glue method of construction.

I am offering them as a single plan purchase, essentially 3 plans for the price of one. My purpose for doing this is also simple; give the amateur boat builder a choice, and try to encourage younger people to enjoy the boat building experience, by keeping construction costs low. For the most part, these designs take elements of boats I have previously built, simplified them, and combined them into easy to build, attractive and portable little boats.

If a school or professional group wants to utilize the plans as a class project, we can supply them at no cost. This would require an e-mail a request, with the requesters name and organization name and address, and we will reply with the plans, and a request for construction updates. Not too much to ask. Send requests to: chuck@duckworksmagazine.com

The plans encourage the builders to add features of their own, in an attempt to customize the finished project with elements unique to their needs. This brings out the creative aspect of boat building, and makes the project very personal.

Basically, these boats are designed to be rowed or paddled, but a couple could be outfitted with an electric trolling motor, with some modification to the stern of the boat. For all, occupant weight must be kept within the maximum operating load specified, about 200 pounds. After all, these are small boats, utilizing lightweight materials, and intended for casual use.

Product Videos

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3 SIMPLE MODULAR BOATS THAT CAN BE NESTEDAND EASILY STORED ON-BOARD SHIP,OR IN AN RV, SUV, TRUCK and GARAGE.Less than 5 feet long for transport. INTENDED AS BRING-ALONG ROW or PADDLE BOATS,FOR USE ON ALL INLAND WATERWAYS.AMPLE FREEBOARD AND SAFETY BUOYANCY .EACH IS CAPABLE OF CARRYING 1 ADULT COMFORTABLY,PLUS SOME GEAR.

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COL·LOCACIÓ CAPES (+ PETITS CANVIS DE LA FORMA DEL CAIAC)

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COL·LOCACIÓ CAPES (+ PETITS CANVIS DE LA FORMA DEL CAIAC)