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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Oav6CpSIaQ

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku32uireU8Y

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How to Mend Jeans with Sashiko Embroidery | Levi’s

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There is a resurgence in popularity in the art of mending. Before the age of disposable fashion, our grandmothers bought good clothes and, as they became worn, they mended them. They darned socks and learned how to match fabrics and patterns so mending could only be seen with close inspection. The beauty of mending is in preserving old favorites with slow, meditative stitches that then extend the life of garments or home accessories.

Photo and stitching by David Owen Hastings

Mending: /mendiNG/ noun; things to be repaired by sewing or darning.

Mending is not new. Japanese Boro Stitching is a traditional art form that embraces upcycling and repurposing. Its simple stitches bring function and beauty to the garment. Each textile tells a story - whether it is the scraps of fabrics that are used for the patches, or the stitches chosen for the repair. So mending brings fashion and interest to the item.

There is a current trend for visible mending that is inspired by traditional Japanese boro stitching, making garment repairs visually appealing and prominent by adding beautiful fabrics and stitches. So each repair becomes an opportunity for the stitcher to slow down and mindfully sew the patches to express their creativity, creating an original design.

Boro embraces the philosophy that nothing should be wasted, so stitchers repair items with scraps that might have been sent to the landfill. Also, it embraces our imperfections: none of us is perfect, and neither are our "stitches".

Both boro stitching and visible mending add a third dimension to the textile you are mending because of the surface design of the scraps and stitches you select. Instead of abandoning a favorite item or donating a garment to your local thrift shop, you now have the opportunity to enhance the flaw and then playfully embellish the garment.

Photo and stitching by David Owen Hastings

How to visibly mend an item

Start by picking out the fabric you'd like to use for your mending. It can be one piece, or many pieces, to cover the worn place.

Selecting fabric to mend jeans

Next, Make sure the piece completely covers the worn place on your item.

Laying the fabric over the worn place

I am patching a worn knee on a pair of jeans. But it's hard to stitch with one hand up a leg of the jeans. So if you don't have a darning egg or darning mushroom (if I had a mushroom, I'd use it in this situation), you can use a small glass bowl. Place the bowl under the patch for sewing, and stitch 'into' the bowl and back up, so there is no need to have your hand in the jean leg (or jacket arm) and risk sewing through too many layers (or your fingers).

More information about boro stitching and visible mending

What is boro stitching?

With Japanese Boro Stitching, textile items are mended with scraps of cloth sewn over the tears or worn out places. Boro mending strengthens the entire textile with added pieces of fabric sewn onto the piece. The patch of fabric can be on the right side of the garment, or on the inside of the garment, so that the stitching becomes the focus.

Photo and stitching by David Owen Hastings

What is the history of boro mending?

Boro stitchers carefully patched garments that were worn for generations. In the 18th and 19th centuries, cotton was expensive and only the noble classes had garments made out of cotton. The workers wore clothing made from homespun fibers that didn't hold up as well as cotton. Their garments were patched and stitched, strengthening the fabric so the garment lasted longer. During those times, they used every scrap of fabric.

What is the difference between Sashiko and boro?

Sashiko is a Japanese word that means 'little stabs'. Boro is very similar to Sashiko but is more of a mending technique, whereas Sashiko is a decorative stitching embellishment. Boro means 'rags' or "tattered cloth" and refers to items that have been repeatedly patched or mended.

Photo and stitching by David Owen Hastings

What is the difference between boro stitching and visible mending?

I see the difference as boro stitching being more utilitarian, using the basic running stitch to attach a patch in a fabric similar to the piece being mended. Not making a huge statement on the garment or other item being mended, but blending in - not a bold print or bright color.

On the other hand, I believe visible mending is making a bold statement by adding a design element or making a statement that you proudly upcycle your clothes instead of sending them to thrift shops or landfills. Visible mending uses bright colors, prints, as well as playing around with different stitches to add embellishments to the repaired item.

There is a fine line between boro stitching and visible mending - both add texture and interest to your garment or textile item.

What kinds of projects can I do with boro or visible mending?

Probably the most popular is mending jeans with patches, but this works well with moth holes on sweaters and, really, any mending project. Or, create something new like a bag or pillow cover by stitching your scraps of fabric together to create a unique piece of fabric.

Photo and stitching by David Owen Hastings

Supplies needed for mending:

Mending uses simple materials and tools. All you need are some fabric scraps, needle and thread. Pick the type of thread you'd like based on how you want the finished mending to look (see below). Then, pick the right needle for the thread you plan on using for your project.

What type of thread should I use for mending?

Any type of thread can be used, depending on the look you like.

You can use Sashiko thread that has more twist than embroidery floss. Six strand embroidery floss can be used if you are looking for a chunkier stitch, or pearl cotton can be used, which is similar to Sashiko thread, but has more of a sheen than the Sashiko thread. Pearl cotton comes in several sizes, so you can vary the look of your stitches. You can even use basic sewing thread for a simple patch that doesn't make much of a statement.

How to sew on a boro patch:

Pick a scrap or two of fabric that covers the area that you want to patch. Multiple fabrics make it more visually interesting.

Pin the scraps to the textile you are patching. You can use straight pins, but my tip is to use safety pins so you don't get poked!

If you like a neat patch, you can turn under the edge of the patch just a bit (like ⅛"), or leave it raw edge. Raw edge patches will give more texture as the garment is laundered.

Secure the patch first around the edge. I like to use a basic running stitch to start, and then add embellishments. Whip stitch, shown below, is another option.

Keep stitching until you are happy with the look!

Photo by David Owen Hasting, mending at a local Thai restaurant

Tips for visible mending:

First and foremost, have fun!

Boro stitching is not meant to be perfect, it is meant to be functional. So, don't overthink your stitches.

Make it yours - make a statement, or not! Bold bright fabrics with colorful stitches make a statement. Or, use scraps that match your base fabric closely, with similar thread color to be more understated.

Try different threads and stitches to see what you prefer.

You can stitch outside the patch! Just like you can color outside the lines! This is YOUR stitching project!

Photo and stitching by David Owen Hastings

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The Art of Mending: Boro Stitching and Visible Mending

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There is a resurgence in popularity in the art of mending. Before the age of disposable fashion, our grandmothers bought good clothes and, as they became worn, they mended them. They darned socks and learned how to match fabrics and patterns so mending could only be seen with close inspection.

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Sashiko Needlework Reborn: From Functional Technology to Decorative Art by carol Hayes paper.

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Today, intricate sashiko embroidery is a style that has found its place in high fashion, but did you know that it was originally developed by poor workers to preserve their precious textiles?

Find out everything you need to know about this invaluable style of traditional Japanese embroidery, including what sashiko means, how to do it, and where you can buy sashiko clothing for yourself!

Sashiko is an traditional Japanese embroidery style which dates back to the Edo period (1615 - 1868). It was mostly used by the working class farming and fishing families as to make stronger more practical workwear. A worn-out piece was stitched with layers of old cloth, producing a sturdy garment passed down through generations.

At that time, cloth was a precious commodity, and homespinning fabric was a time-intensive task. Natural fibres like cotton, silk and hemp were handspun, handwoven, and dyed. Silk and cotton were reserved for a specific section of society and were expensive; hemp was what the ordinary man wore, which was more prone to tearing. Given the circumstances mending prowess was a skill needed to survive, which has evolved over the centuries from a frugal necessity into decorative stitching.

By the Meiji Era (1868-1912), this folk textile was a well-established craft. Even personal protective garments, such as the firemen's coat ( hikeshibaten) during the Edo and Meiji period, were modelled using the Sashiko technique of stitching several indigo-coloured layers. This garment was worn wet after soaking in water before performing duties, and typically dragons, mythological heroes, and symbols of water and bravery decorated the uniforms.

2. What are the Different Types of Sashiko?

The generic style of sashiko embroidery follows a geometric pattern divided into five main kinds. Moyozashi uses running stitches to create linear designs, while in hitomezashi, the structures emerge from the alignment of many single stitches made on a grid. Kogin, which means small cloth, is a type of darned embroidery from the Tsugaru district of Honshu. Shonai sashiko, which comes from the Shonai region of Yamagata prefecture, has straight lines that cross each other. And if the art uses indigo-dyed threads, it is called kakurezashi.

Historically the common man was forbidden from wearing bright colours, while organic indigo dye was the most affordable, as it was easy to grow, making it accessible for all. You can also check out these 6 Things You Should Know About Japanese Indigo Dye.

The most popular Japanese embroidery patterns are fish scales, diamonds, mountains, bamboo, persimmon leaves, arrow features, pampas grass, shippo-tsunagi (seven treasures geometric design that encompasses four eclipsis and a single circle) and interlocking geometric shapes.

3. How is Sashiko Embroidery Used Today?

One indispensable aspect of any evolving handicraft is its potential, in which sashiko is particularly rich. Sashiko is today used in any number of products from clothing, bags, accessories like sunglasses, jewellery, and shoes to home linen, like cushions, rugs, blankets, bedspreads, and wall art.

In these more waste-conscious times, sashiko is becoming more popular, embodying the quintessential culture of mottanai, the Japanese Philosophy of not having to waste anything.

The Japanese word sashiko (刺し子) translates to English as little stabs, a reference made to the simple running stitch employed by repeating or interlocking traditional Japanese geometric patterns, offering a vast creative canvas.

Sashiko thread is quite different from an ordinary embroidery thread; the yarn of the sashiko thread at the time of use is given a slight twist to increase its strength.

Sashiko mending sometimes requires knotting the thread before sewing the cloth, but there are different schools of thought, predominately based on the type of fabric in use. Denim for instance can handle any thickness of thread, whereas a more delicate vintage cloth might rip if the thread is not right. If the thread is not knotted, the material is held together by reversing and double-overlaying stitches.

5. How to Start Sashiko Embroidery Yourself?

The unpretentious traditional combination of indigo-dyed fabric and white thread form a distinctive appearance of white-on-blue, created with just a few humble supplies a Sashiko thread, an appropriate needle, fabric, a Sashiko thimble, tracing tools like chalk or pen, and a pattern to trace.

To make Sashiko first start with a water-soluble marking pen, or pencil, to draw patterns on the cloth. You will need to wear a thimble on the middle finger to support the needle in continuing the running stitch for the technique to work. You can find the patterns and techniques you need in a guide book like The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook by Susan Briscoe.

If you're looking for where to buy sashiko thread and other equipment, you can check out Upcycle Stiches who are based in Japan but ship internationally.

6. What is Boro, and How is it Different from Sashiko?

Sashiko and Boro are both intertwined in history but not interchangeable. Sashiko refers to the style of embroidery, whereas the word Boro meaning rags or tattered cloth and indicates the textiles used rather than how they are put together. These techniques were born sometime in the Edo period (1615-1868) and often used white-on-indigo threadwork to repair and repurpose a fabric.

Boro can be best defined as the mindful Japanese art of mending textiles, while Sashiko is a form of sustainable embroidery to strengthen the fabric. Boro textiles are restored by overlapping and stitching spare or discharged scraps of fabric together, essentially using a sashiko stitch, to reinforce the material.

Boro fabrics were typically indigo-dyed as it was the cheapest natural dye available, and a remarkable number of boro pieces also showcase kasuri dye work, a form of ikat dyeing. The thread used for making boro is the same as sashiko, primarily because boro mending deals with old vintage fabrics. The tightly spun yarn of standard line thread would tear the antique instead of unifying the garment. A valued vintage piece of sashiko often incorporates some Boro patches without appearing to be a patchwork, blending as a part of the garment.

Following the golden Meiji period, when the standard of life began to improve and money reached the lower classes, boro garments were discarded by families as visible sign of poverty. Today's visible mending is a modern form of boro that has become a movement challenging us to rethink how we consume clothing in the era of convenience.

Today boro has regained popularity blending in with the wabi-sabi Japanese aesthetic. On a global platform, Boro reproductions have been made by retail lines to spruce up a garment, and at a grass-root level, it's practised as a craft. A legacy of 1500 antique items of Boro are at a permanent exhibition at Amuse Museum in Asakusa, Tokyo, and the government for preservation has designated a few choicest pieces as Tangible Cultural property.

Over the years, sashiko's resurgence has seen even fashion veterans like Issey Miyake use sashiko in his collections, and it has appeared on the runway for Maison Margiela. If fashion is a barometer of the culture in which it's born then truly Japanese sashiko embroidery is one traditional craft skill that is on the up.

JO SELECTS offers helpful suggestions, and genuine recommendations for high-quality, authentic Japanese art & design. We know how difficult it is to search for Japanese artists, artisans and designers on the vast internet, so we came up with this lifestyle guide to highlight the most inspiring Japanese artworks, designs and products for your everyday needs.

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What is Sashiko? 7 Things to Know About Japanese Embroidery

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What does sashiko mean, how can you do your own Japanese embroidery, and where can you find sashiko textiles? Everything you need to know about this invaluable traditional style.

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http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/50806

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Sashiko Kimono | Japan | Meiji period (1868–1912) | The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFTvWdnna2Q&t=43s

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https://www.kapital.jp/

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https://www.susanbriscoe.com/

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Sashiko, Kogin, Boro | Susan Briscoe Designs | United Kingdom

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Susan Briscoe, designer & author - I sell sashiko and kogin threads, boro, Japanese patchwork and quilting fabrics, new and vintage.

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https://youtu.be/9m4_cIA6-rM?si=aXNqOK1imBCHvPxn

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Three Minimalistic Sashiko Patterns to Achieve Even Stitches and for Visible Mending