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Edited upcoming trends

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Triangle bras trending

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How the lingerie market is doing in US and globally.

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Do we need an excuse to discuss the lingerie market? If yes, how about April 24th, the third 'National Lingerie Day'. Mmhm, you heard right.

Certainly retailers shouldn't be considering the category once yearly. Today underwear makes up a larger proportion of the US market - 4% - than it has at any point over the last four years.

That 4% might seem small, but we're talking a segment worth $12 billion to the US.

And on a global scale, lingerie is expected to hit $55.83 billion by 2024. It's a 4% worth having. We've checked out the opportunities in it.

Push-up, sports bra or bralette?

In the last few years, the increase in active lifestyles have seen consumers and retailers alike move away from the bust-emphasising bra styles so popular in the 90s. Primarily, the push-up.

It's fallen down the hit list, replaced by sports bras (the third most-stocked bra style right now) and the softer lines of the triangle bra/bralette.

The first chart shows how closely aligned new arrivals of triangle bras and push-up bras were at the start of 2016.

By late 2016 that had shifted, with triangle styles forging ahead. Push-up bras have now flatlined and are unlikely to see further change, after all there will always be a consumer who has a place for this style in her wardrobe, regardless of dominant trends.

At the start of 2016, a push-up bra was averaging $32.60. It's now declined to $29.49, coming in on average cheaper than its less technical but more popular rival, the bralette, at $32.88.

Sports bras, which have seen growth focused around summer and January spikes, have increased average price point by 5% from $44.95 to $47.37. Comfort and functionality is winning out right now.

Briefs & Padded Bras

Even though push-up styles are declining, padded bras are the most significant style of bra currently on the market, as the chart below shows.

The number of padded styles in stock has grown by 17% since this time two years ago. Meanwhile, nursing bras are up 36% and bralettes are up 123%.

Meanwhile thongs are, erm, climbing, up by 15% since 2016. That's the same pace at which briefs are growing. Both trail behind shapewear, a small but growing proportion of the underwear market, up 29% in two years.

Increase in nude colors

Another interesting development in the category is the recent increase in best selling nude shades of women's underwear. In fact, best selling nude tones were up by 101% in the last three months.

Best selling nude tones in underwear were up by 101% in the last three months. tweet

Without question, there's still a long way to go. Target define five skin tones in its nude offering, which is the same number of colorways on the most diverse lines at Nordstrom.

However, recent news that Rihanna is pairing up with TechStyle Fashion Group on a lingerie line suggests greater diversity is on way. The star's incredibly successful Fenty Beauty line has 40 shades of foundation.

Victoria's Secret is Out

There has been some shifts in retailers' underwear assortments, with ASOS having grown its own brand assortment 24% in the US in the last year and Forever 21 up 49%.

That's put pressure on these guys:

In fact, Victoria's Secret is declining emphasis on underwear categories. At VS, underwear currently represents 39% of the offering. A year ago, it accounted for 44% of the offering. Tops, bottoms and accessories are all expanding as the retailer loses market share thanks to its former emphasis on push-up styles.

Across the VS portfolio, bras and knickers are declining in price point. Bras at Victoria's Secret are priced $30.04 on average today, down 4% from a year ago, and $23.96 at Pink, down 12%. Knickers have declined 24.5% at Victoria's Secret, to $10.59, and are down 14.2% at Pink, to $9.93.

Thinking of launching an underwear category? Consider this first:

Take a close look here. It shows the proportion of product currently in stock that the US and UK place on each price point (up to $160). For example, both the US and UK price 29% of underwear at below $20.

Alongside that information is a breakdown of pricing of the best selling underwear - stuff that sold out full price.

Analyzing the way each market stocks into price and sells out of price points highlights some opportunities.

For one, the US could push harder into its upper price brackets, given that the popularity of these outstrip the weighting given to options. Big opportunity here for the luxury retailers, like Farfetch (already up 193% from 2016) and Net-a-Porter (up 26%).

In the UK, retailers can probably buy deeper into the lowest price point, given how much of full-priced sell outs it accounts for. At this lower end, underwear styles that sell well should be moved into retailers' core and shouldn't sell through.

The UK too could build out the upper ranges of its pricing, specifically $60-80.

What next?

The underwear market is going to receive pressure from two directions: one, the digitally native entrants to the market, like Lonely, The Nude Label, Lively and Negative Project. They have easy-to-shop assortments focused on comfort and strong online communities centered around body positivity.

The second pressure will come directly from consumers, specifically younger consumers who will demand greater inclusivity and diversity and a reassessment of the traditionally sexualized imagery of the industry.

Serena Rees, former co-founder of luxury brand Agent Provacteur, has seen the opportunity coming. Her new brand Les Girls Les Boys is a range of underwear for gender fluid millennials. Times are a-changing!

EDITED Tip: Here are the top 5 lingerie lessons we learned.

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The lingerie market today, explained in 7 charts - EDITED

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Certainly retailers shouldn't be considering the category once yearly. Today underwear makes up a larger proportion of the US market - 4% - than it has at any point over the last four years. That 4% might seem small, but we're talking a segment worth $12 billion to the US.

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Average pricing of Lingerie in retailers in uk

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Edited

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Edited

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increased sales for early2019

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Reiss CEO Christos Angelides credited the results, in part, to a refreshed brand and product offer across stores and online.

Like-for-like sales for the period grew by 13.2%, and there was a strong performance over the Christmas season. Like-for-like sales in the eight weeks to 5 January 2019 rose by 19.1%

During the year, the business reduced its promotional activities to improve margins. It also invested in omnichannel infrastructure and operational capabilities, including the implementation of RFID (radio frequency identification) technology in UK stores to improve multi-channel stock transparency.

Commenting on the results, Angelides said: "The initiatives we put in place to refresh the brand and product offer, both in store and online, have resonated well with our customers.

"Last year, we continued a programme of investment across all areas of the business that specifically focused on upgrading the design and quality of the Reiss product offer. This, coupled with operational improvements, has delivered a step change in performance."

He noted that despite a strong start to the new year, with group sales for the 10 weeks to 13 April 2019 up by 27.9% to £36.5m, the retail environment remains a challenge.

"Early sales from the Spring Summer '19 collections have maintained the positive momentum that built towards the end of last year, reflecting our drive to unlock the brand's potential," he said. "However, I am conscious that the retail environment remains subdued and we will not be complacent as we continue in our work to create beautiful, timeless clothes for Reiss customers."

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Reiss CEO Christos Angelides credited the results, in part, to a refreshed brand and product offer across stores and online. Like-for-like sales for the period grew by 13.2%, and there was a strong performance over the Christmas season.

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Product unavailability and currency fluctuactions cause issues.

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Reiss said the drop in profits was the result of product availability issues, the weakness of sterling and investment in the website.

It also incurred a non-cash impairment provision of £14.2m in relation to several underperforming overseas stores and £2.1m of exceptional re-organisation costs during the year.

Reiss said it had "revitalised and evolved" its customer offer and rectified product availability issues, as well as investing in its website infrastructure and experience.

In 2018 Reiss signed a global shoe and accessories licensing agreement with Global Brands Group, a franchise agreement with South Korean department stores Shinsegae, and new wholesale accounts with Nordstrom in the US and in El Corte Inglés in Spain.

UK like-for-like sales for the six months to 4 August were up 6.7%, while international sales were up 16.4% compared with 2016/17.

Reiss said no further exceptional impairment charge was expected in 2018 given the improved sales performance.

CEO Christos Angelides said: "Last year we put in place the building blocks to reposition and refresh the Reiss brand, product and website proposition. We also signed some important new franchising and licensing agreements and, with the right team in place, we have taken steps to improve our operational execution.

"Our customers have responded positively, and the business has performed well in the first half. Sales growth has accelerated through September and October as the autumn/winter collection has been launched, with like-for-like UK sales up 15% and international like-for-like sales up 14.8% in the first 10 weeks of the second half.

"We anticipate that these trends will continue throughout the rest of the year in all of Reiss channels to market, which should result in improved profit growth versus last year."

The business continues to bolster its senior team under Angelides. Jamie O'Hare, senior designer at Tom Ford, is joining as womenswear design director, reporting to womenswear director Una Joyce, Drapers understands.

Angelo Perna, former director of global digital media at Burberry is joining as global head of marketing.

Reiss was founded by David Reiss in 1971. It has more than 187 points of sale - own stores and stockists - in 16 countries.

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Reiss sales up but profits slip in 'transitional' year

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Reiss said the drop in profits was the result of product availability issues, the weakness of sterling and investment in the website. It also incurred a non-cash impairment provision of £14.2m in relation to several underperforming overseas stores and £2.1m of exceptional re-organisation costs during the year.

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Reiss extension into lingerie market.

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I have been interested in silk and modal as options for my lingerie collection.

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Choosing the right lingerie fabrics | Seamwork Magazine

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From sheer silk chiffon to sturdy nylon, here's how to find dream fabrics for your next undergarment.

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When it comes to the best fabrics for lingerie, it will all depend on your....desired usage, if you know what I mean. From sexy babydolls to the more practical slips for defining your shape, lingerie can be worn alone or as underwear. Making your own lingerie is an empowering sewing project, especially as you get to make something perfectly fitted to your unique figure. When you have the best fabrics for lingerie, the right pattern and your own custom printed fabric, your underwear game just got a whole lot more exciting.

Why Make Your Own Lingerie?

Sometimes, you think you've found the ultimate bra and knickers set. They seem like everything you want from underwear, but when you're in the changing rooms, it's just not right. Maybe the cup is slightly too big, the nightie you thought was perfect hugs your hips a little bit more than you'd like, or the fabric feels irritable on your skin. At the end of the day, we want to feel beautiful and comfortable, and high street shops can't always strike that balance. When you make your own lingerie garments, you're in complete control of the look and feel, creating something that is made especially for you.

The best fabrics for lingerie can range from floaty, luxurious fabrics such as Lucent Satin, Organza and Florence Net, to the more practical and cosy fabrics like Mulmul, Cotton Satin and Jersey. All of which are going to feel delicate and smooth against your skin, draping where they ought to drape and fitting your form how they should.

Choosing your lingerie fabrics will all depend on what you're making. Here's a few staples every woman should have in her lingerie repertoire:

Best fabrics for Lingerie

The following fabrics are for both the body of your lingerie and also trimmings, applique and other decorative touches you want to add. Remember to consider your fabric very carefully, to ensure that it is the right one for your perfect lingerie garment.

Lucent Satin

Lucent Satin is a beautifully light, soft and shimmery fabric that is ideal for making babydolls and flirty nighties. The high lustre face catches the light, making it perfect for intensifying those intimate evening moments. Weighing 120gsm, it's cool to touch and effortlessly slips over your skin, feeling delicate and graceful.

Silk Impression

Silk Impression is a demure fabric that's perfect for lingerie making as it's both incredibly lightweight (80gsm) and durable. It almost feels weightless, effortlessly gliding over your skin without any friction. The front and back textures are the same, being soft, silky and cool to the touch. It has a shimmery face and is semi-translucent, producing an elegant, slightly faded print. It's one of the best fabrics for lingerie items such as nighties and babydolls, due to the glamourous silk appearance.

Shimmery face

Silky and cool to touch

Holds shape well

Super lightweight

Semi-transparent

Cotton Satin

Cotton Satin is 100% natural, so is incredibly soft to touch. Even though it has a matt finish, the face is smooth and feels a delight against the skin. It drapes elegantly, and would be ideal to make a classy chemise or cute pyjama set. Natural cotton is always a beautiful fabric to wear, thanks to the breathable properties and cool touch.

Mulmul Soft Muslin

Not every fabric used for lingerie needs to be sexy and glam, but the mulmul muslin is sultry in its own unique way. The sheer-like quality and semi-transparency make it perfect for a 'barely there' chemise or nightdress. It's incredibly soft, and has an almost brushed surface, making it a delight to wear of an evening.

Jersey

The springy, stretchy nature of Jersey make it an ideal fabric for creating supportive garments such as panties or slips. Not only this but because it moves with the body it's ideal as ordinary comfort loungewear. There's many different weights to choose from, depending on your desired usage. Jerseys are knitted, providing warmth and a cosy softness you wouldn't get from Lycra. Fabrics for lingerie are so versatile, so you could even use a jersey to make a gathered babydoll or lightweight robe.

Princess Lace Satin

Make your own shapely lace bodysuit using Princess Lace Satin. Then knitted lace front is backed with an elegant silvery satin, creating drama, texture and sensuality. There's a slight stretch so it can move with you whilst still keeping the shape and definition. It's a totally feminine fabric that flaunts your figure and shows off curves.

Organza

Sheer and transparent with a touch of sparkle, Organza is a beutiful fabric to use to add decorative notes to your lingerie. Add shaped motifs that subtly catch the light, or why not add a petticoat layer to your babydoll? Organza is sheer with an ethereal aesthetic, making it a perfect fabric for lingerie. It can bring a slight firmness without adding any weight, ideal for under garments.

Florence Net

Fine and fragile looking Florence Net might be but it's anything from the truth. This power net fabric is super strong and durable. With a 4 way stretch, there's so much movement making it perfect for making knickers. Finished with a lace trim to add support and structure, Florence Net knickers are so weightless and comfortable. Transparent and breathable, it's perfectly suited to lingerie. Totally fluid, slipping over your body like water, you won't even know you're wearing them. You could also make a chemise or underlay for other lingerie garments.

Super stretchy

Transparent with fluid drape

Lightweight and breathable

Gentle on the skin

Non-fray knitted net

Feeling inspired to make your own lingerie? Then make sure you make something totally unique and customised to you and your style. Design your own lingerie fabric for a bespoke bedroom experience and feel gorgeous in your very own handmade undergarments. This is only a handful of our selection, so click on the banner below and discover the full range.

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The 8 Best Fabrics For Lingerie & Underwear Making

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When it comes to the best fabrics for lingerie, it will all depend on your....desired usage, if you know what I mean. From sexy babydolls to the more practical slips for defining your shape, lingerie can be worn alone or as underwear.

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My seasonal Range plan for the new collection at Reiss.

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My seasonal Range plan for the new collection at Reiss.

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Total sales= £523,621.
Average margin is 75%

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Report on politics, economy and news.

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State of Emergency Measures

Under the state of emergency in place since July 2016, the president presides over the cabinet, which can pass decrees without parliamentary scrutiny or the possibility of appeal to the constitutional court. Many decrees adopted contained measures that undermine human rights safeguards and conflict with Turkey's international human rights obligations.

Public officials continued to be dismissed or suspended by decree without due process, with more than 110,000 dismissed since July 2016. Hundreds of media outlets, associations, foundations, private hospitals, and educational establishments that the government shut down by decree remained closed in 2017, their assets confiscated without compensation.

In January, the government ruled on the establishment of an ad hoc commission to review decisions made under the state of emergency. The commission lacks independence since its seven members are appointed by the same authorities responsible for approving dismissals and closures. There is a right of further appeal, but mechanisms for redress and compensation are likely to take many years. In the meantime, those affected have no right to work in public service, their bank accounts are frozen, and passports confiscated. At time of writing, over 102,000 people had applied to the commission, which had not yet begun to issue decisions such as overturning dismissals and closures.

People continued to be arrested and remanded to pretrial custody on terrorism charges, with at least 50,000 remanded to pretrial detention and many more prosecuted since the failed coup. Those prosecuted include journalists, civil servants, teachers and politicians as well as police officers and military personnel. Most were accused of being followers of the US-based cleric Fethullah Gülen. Turkey's government and courts say the Gülen movement masterminded the coup attempt, and deem it a terrorist organization, labelled the Fethullahist Terrorist Organization (FETÖ). Prosecutions of individuals charged with FETÖ membership often lacked compelling evidence of criminal activity.

Among many ongoing trials against soldiers alleged to have participated in the coup attempt, in October a court in Muğla sentenced 40 military personnel to life imprisonment in connection with the attempted assassination of President Erdoğan on July 15, 2016.

Freedom of Expression, Association, and Assembly

The prosecution and jailing of journalists for doing their work continued after the closing of media outlets since the coup attempt. Turkey is the world leader in jailing journalists and media workers as they face criminal investigations and trials, with around 150 behind bars at time of writing. Most newspapers and television channels lack independence and promote the government's political line.

Several major, politically motivated trials of journalists on terrorism-related charges began in 2017. The evidence consisted of writing and reporting, which did not advocate violence, alongside unsupported allegations of connections with terrorist organizations or involvement in the coup attempt. That trials continued despite the lack of credible evidence to substantiate the charges demonstrated lack of judicial independence.

At the first trial hearing in March of a group of journalists accused of FETÖ membership, the court decided to release on bail 21 defendants who had been held in prolonged pretrial detention. However, following criticism of the decision by a pro-government journalist, there was an appeal against the release of eight of the 21, and a new investigation against the other 13. As a result, none were released from detention. The High Council of Judges and Prosecutors subsequently suspended the three judges who had ruled to release the journalists, plus the prosecutor at the hearing.

The trial of 19 journalists, board members and other personnel from the Cumhuriyet newspaper on charges of FETÖ links began on July 24. Well-known reporter Ahmet Şık is among five defendants still in prolonged pretrial detention.

In a separate case concerning Cumhuriyet reporting on Turkish intelligence services supplying arms to Syrian opposition groups, an Istanbul court in June sentenced Enis Berberoğlu, member of parliament for the opposition Republican People's Party (CHP), to 25 years' imprisonment for providing video of the weapons to the newspaper. He remained in prison at time of writing, although a court of appeal overturned his conviction and ordered a retrial. Proceedings against Cumhuriyet Ankara bureau chief Erdem Gül and former editor Can Dündar on related allegations continued.

The trial of 31 Zaman newspaper journalists and media workers on coup attempt charges began in September, a full 14 months after many of the defendants were remanded to pretrial detention. They face life imprisonment if convicted for writings that did not advocate violence.

During 2017, Kurdish journalists were prosecuted and detained on charges of links with the armed Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) over their reporting. Dozens of journalists and public figures who participated in a solidarity campaign with the now closed pro-Kurdish Özgür Gündem newspaper were prosecuted for terrorist propaganda. While most received suspended sentences and fines, in May an Istanbul court sentenced Murat Çelikkan, a journalist and human rights defender, to 18 months' imprisonment. He was released after two months.

The blocking of websites and removal of online content continued, with an April court order upholding the request by the state Information and Communication Technologies Authority to block the entire Wikipedia website. Turkey made 45 percent of global requests to Twitter to remove online content in the first six months of 2017.

Authorities frequently imposed arbitrary bans on public assemblies and violently dispersed peaceful demonstrations.

Nuriye Gülmen and Semih Özakça, an academic and teacher respectively, dismissed under the state of emergency, were repeatedly detained and released by police as they carried out a sit-in, and later hunger strike in Ankara to demand reinstatement. In May, a court remanded them to prison pending trial charged with terrorist membership. Özakça was released in October and Gülmen in December. In advance of their first trial hearing in September, 16 lawyers representing them were detained and 14 subsequently remanded to prison. In November, their lead defense lawyer Selçuk Kozağaçlı, head of the shuttered Contemporary Lawyers Association, was also arrested.

Under the state of emergency in Turkey over 500 lawyers have been jailed pending trial, and over 1,000 prosecuted. Most lawyers facing prosecution are accused of alleged FETÖ links.

For a third year, the Istanbul governor's office banned the annual Istanbul Gay and Trans Pride marches in June 2017, citing concerns about security threats and public order.

Human Rights Defenders

In 2017, the crackdown on critical voices in Turkey was extended to human rights defenders. In June, Taner Kılıç, chair of Amnesty International Turkey, was detained and placed in pretrial detention for alleged FETÖ links. The politically motivated and unsubstantiated charges against him are grounded on the claim he had an encryption app known as ByLock on his phone, which the government claims links him to FETÖ. Kılıç denies the accusation, and his legal team produced two expert reports demonstrating that ByLock was never downloaded on his phone.

In July, 10 human rights defenders were detained during a routine meeting in Istanbul, accused of aiding unnamed terrorist organizations. Eight were remanded to pretrial detention, including Amnesty Turkey director İdil Eser, Citizens' Assembly member and Amnesty Turkey founder Özlem Dalkıran, and two defenders of German and Swedish nationality.

The charges are based on random material, including Amnesty International campaign material, and a grant application, gathered from the defenders' phones and laptops. On October 25, a court ordered their release on bail. The two foreign nationals left the country. The case against Taner Kılıç was combined with that against the 10 defenders, and the trial against the 11 continued.

In November, Osman Kavala, a businessman and well-known figure in civil society in Turkey, was jailed pending investigation on trumped up charges, including involvement in the July 2016 coup.

Torture and Ill-Treatment in Custody

Cases of torture and ill-treatment in police custody were widely reported through 2017, especially by individuals detained under the anti-terror law, marking a reverse in long-standing progress, despite the government's stated zero tolerance for torture policy. There were widespread reports of police beating detainees, subjecting them to prolonged stress positions and threats of rape, threats to lawyers, and interference with medical examinations.

There were credible reports of unidentified perpetrators believed to be state agents abducting men in at least six cases, and holding them in undisclosed places of detention in circumstances that amounted to possible enforced disappearances. At least one surfaced in official custody and three others were released after periods of two to three months. The men had all been dismissed from civil service jobs for Gülenist connections.

Resumption of Conflict and Crackdown on Kurdish Opposition

In parallel with the resumption of armed clashes between the military and the armed Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) in the southeast, the government pursued a crackdown on elected parliamentarians and municipalities from pro-Kurdish parties.

During 2017, up to 13 Peoples' Democratic Party (HDP) deputies were held in prolonged pretrial detention on terrorism charges. Two of them, party co-leader Selahattin Demirtaş and former co-leader Figen Yüksekdağ, have been in detention since November 2016. Yüksekdağ was stripped of her parliamentary seat in February after an earlier terrorism propaganda conviction was upheld. Demirtaş' trial began in Ankara on December 7 but, allegedly due to security concerns, he was not permitted to appear in court, a failure to respect his due process rights.

In the southeast, the government took control in 89 municipalities won by the HDP's sister party in the region, the Democratic Regions Party (DBP), and suspended their democratically elected co-mayors under suspicion of terrorism offenses, with at least 70 jailed pending trial at time of writing. This violates the rights to political association and participation and freedom of expression of the elected officials, and denies the right to political representation for those who elected them.

Refugees and Migrants

Turkey continues to host the largest number of refugees in the world. Of the 3.4 million in Turkey, most come from Syria, but Turkey also hosts asylum seekers from Afghanistan, Iraq and other countries. A migration deal with the European Union, which offers aid in exchange for preventing onward migration to the EU, continued. Restrictions on the Syrian border impeded access to Turkey for refugees.

There remained high rates of child labor and large numbers of child refugees and asylum seekers not attending school, with a particularly precarious situation for non-Syrians. As of the latest available update, nearly half-a-million Syrian refugee children are currently enrolled in school, but at least 380,000 remain out of school. Lack of access to full protection is compounded by exploitative labor conditions and poverty.

Key International Actors

The EU-Turkey relationship deteriorated further in 2017, with a resolution in the European Parliament and some member states calling for a suspension of the EU accession process over the country's worsening rights record.

Relations between Turkey and several EU member states and the US were marked with tensions over arbitrary detention of their nationals on trumped up terrorism charges.

Germany's Chancellor Angela Merkel ruled out greater EU-Turkey economic cooperation through a renewed Customs Union in the current political context. In June, the German cabinet decided to relocate troops from a Turkish airbase to one in Jordan.

While the US State Department raised concerns on matters relating to human rights in Turkey, relations between the US and Turkish governments were dominated by Turkey's objection to US backing for PKK-affiliated Kurdish forces in Syria in operations against the extremist Islamic State (IS) forces. Turkey sees the extradition of US-based cleric Fethullah Gülen as another priority.

In April, the Council of Europe Parliamentary Assembly voted to reinstate a full monitoring procedure against Turkey after 13 years, citing "serious concerns" about respect for human rights, democracy and the rule of law. The Venice Commission, the Council of Europe's constitutional advisory body, criticized Turkey's state of emergency measures and move to a presidential system, citing "excessive concentration of executive power in the hands of the president" and lack of "necessary checks and balances."

In July, United Nations experts on the right to assembly and association, human rights defenders, arbitrary detention, and judges and lawyers, jointly called the arrests of human rights defenders in Turkey a "witch-hunt" and called on the UN Human Rights Council to address the deterioration of human rights in the country.

The Council of Europe Commissioner for Human Rights and UN special rapporteur on freedom of expression both published reports on Turkey's deeply problematic record on free speech and media freedom.

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World Report 2018: Rights Trends in Turkey

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An April 2017 referendum, which voters approved by a slim margin, introduced constitutional amendments switching Turkey to a presidential system of governance, the most significant change to its political institutions in decades.

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Rise of smaller brands, start ups and high street retailers offering cheaper choices.

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Underwear is moving out from beneath clothing's shadow. Intricate bras and bodies are designed to be seen, and the sector is set for significant growth. The UK's lingerie market will grow by 11.4% between 2016 and 2021 to top £3bn, market researcher Mintel has forecast. It seems that lingerie may be benefiting from a form of "lipstick effect" - as consumer spending continues to be squeezed, shoppers opt for items with lower price points such as underwear and hosiery.

"It is a little bit miserable out there, the economy is a worry and so customers like to treat themselves with some gorgeous, glamorous underwear. Just knowing that you have a nice set of underwear on can make you feel good," explains Debby Duckett, buying director at Boux Avenue.

As the sector flourishes, however, competition in this crowded market is increasingly fierce. Brands and retailers seeking to make their mark in lingerie are up against the sector's giants, both established - Marks & Spencer commands a 27.6% share of the UK lingerie market, selling more than 21 million bras every year and two pairs knickers every second - and newer entrants.

I expect growth in the lingerie market over the next 12 months as the bralette look begins to influence the core collections of bigger brands

Sian Thomas, international head of design for Triumph

"The main challenge for us is definitely competition from bigger retailers either moving into or expanding their own-brand lingerie offers," confirms Janet Mudge, brand director at lingerie label Bluebella.

"The big guys, like Asos, are focusing on their own labels, so we have to make sure we are constantly producing product customers won't see in those ranges."

New entrants

At the other end of the spectrum, a wave of smaller lingerie brands has entered the market. What they lack in size, they make up for by offering consumers more choice than they can find on the high street, in terms of both styles and sizing.

Lingerie label Dora Larsen, for example, is known for its quirky colour combinations and delicate lace. Founder Georgia Larsen, who started the brand in 2015 and previously worked as a lingerie buyer for Topshop, believes consumers are looking for something different.

"There is just so much choice out there and customers don't have to rely on the high street telling them what to wear," she says. "They expect more than ever before. It's no good doing an update on last year's bestseller - you need to be producing something exciting."

Supporting role

When it comes to product, the bralette's reign over the UK lingerie market shows no signs of ending, as customers ditch heavily padded styles in favour of a sports-inspired silhouette. But as the trend matures, brands and retailers are racing to introduce products that can mimic the look on a variety of cup sizes, big and small.

"Bralettes continue to be popular, but brands are developing non-wired solutions that are still supportive," explains Elly Rigby, the owner of London-based lingerie retailer The Pantry Underwear, which also runs a shop-in-shop at luxury department store Liberty.

"Those who focus on larger cup sizes are replicating the triangle bras traditionally more suited to an A to C cup, which is no mean feat. We've also seen some very pretty padded bralettes for smaller cup sizes coming through, because, if you're quite flat-chested, a bralette doesn't give you anything."

Supportive styles that echo the effect created by triangle bras and bralettes are among lingerie retailer Boux Avenue's key pieces for spring 18, adds Duckett: "We're definitely seeing the popularity of styles that can create the look of a triangle bra with more support.

"If you're a D cup, you're going to struggle with a little bralette, but a high-apex bra [where the point at which the cup joins the shoulder strap is higher] can create that look with wire. We've done particularly well with our high-apex Zoe bra and with high-waisted knickers with sheer panels. They offer more comfort and that is definitely something customers are looking for."

M&S has also noted the rise of bigger knickers. Full briefs became the retailer's best-selling knicker shape in 2017, knocking the Brazilian off the top spot. Last year, it sold 13 million full-brief knickers in the UK.

Sian Thomas, international head of design for Triumph, agrees: "I expect there to be some growth in the lingerie market over the next 12 months as the bralette look begins to influence the core collections of bigger brands. Everybody wants that look, regardless of cup size. By adding light padding and wire into higher-apex and longer-line styles, we can create the shape and feel of a bralette but with support."

The trend for athleisure will certainly continue for at least some of 2018

Lizzie Dawson, design director at Urban Outfitters Europe

As the athleisure trend progresses, customers will turn towards a softer, more feminine variation on the trend.

"The trend for athleisure will certainly continue for at least some of 2018," explains Lizzie Dawson, design director at Urban Outfitters Europe. "Customers still like the idea of lingerie being worn as part of the visible outfit, as opposed to just an undergarment. There has been a very masculine, athletic approach in the last 12 months and, although I don't expect this to go away any time soon, I anticipate demand for more feminine product to come through."

As the choice of styles and brands proliferates, lingerie can be as much an affordable pick-up for customers as it is everyday necessity. The market is growing, but so too is the number of players hoping to take a slice of it. Retailers need to make sure they are offering plenty of choice, and styles and sizes to suit every customer.

Spotlight on socks

Socks and tights are no longer an afterthought. Rigby argues that interesting hosiery is a particular opportunity for retailers. Searches for sheer socks and glitter socks on image-sharing social media platform Pinterest have rocketed by 195% and 260% respectively over the last year.

"We're certainly seeing customers invest in their hosiery. People aren't wearing skinny jeans that go right down to the shoe any more," she explains. "They're wearing straight cuts or styles with ripped bottoms, which makes interesting, good-quality socks an integral part of the outfit."

Paula Maso, concept designer for sock and underwear brand Happy Socks, which introduced new trend-focused line Hysteria last year, agrees: "Transparent styles, glitter and embellishment are all the rage [in socks]. We're really excited about tights for autumn 18, as the more fashion-forward personalities start to wear them in a really fun way. As a larger trend, sheer qualities, glitter and beading is going to keep growing."

Even classic black and nude tights are being reimagined. Disruptive underwear brand Heist has created a stir with its eye-catching ad campaign and ambitious claim to have created the perfect pair of tights. The brand, which launched in 2015, uses a seamless waistband, stretchier yarn and 3D knitting to make tights it says reduce rubbing, twisting and laddering.

"We worked with 67 women to find out what they wanted from tights and focused on three complaints: digging in at the waist, itchy yarn and slipping down," explains Heist's head of community Ellie Howard. "For the waistband, we looked to products like yoga leggings, which allow customers to move freely. There's also no gusset, the tights are seamless and knitted in one continuous tube. The toe seam is then tucked under the foot."

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Why underwear is overperforming right now

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Underwear is moving out from beneath clothing's shadow. Intricate bras and bodies are designed to be seen, and the sector is set for significant growth. The UK's lingerie market will grow by 11.4% between 2016 and 2021 to top £3bn, market researcher Mintel has forecast.

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Researching transport options from turkey

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Turkey is the EU's sixth biggest trading partner. It is a global leader in the production of cotton yarn, mohair, and synthetic fibres, making it the fourth largest supplier to the clothing industry worldwide and the second largest in the EU.
The UK and Turkey exchange a wide range of manufactured good, products and commodities including:

Vehicles and vehicle parts

Knitwear and clothing

Electronic equipment

Machinery

Foodstuffs

Gems

Despite the growth in trade Turkey is still considered to be a challenging market, with significant differences in business operation and Customs rules and regulations, which need careful attention, to ensure that shipments are not impeded.

MIQ Logistics are specialists in road freight to Turkey, with unparalleled local support, which means that we always provide a prompt and professional service to our customers, including fashion and textile producers, chemical industries, oil and gas companies and retailers

From small express shipments, to full trailer loads MIQ Logistics provide nationwide, comprehensive road freight services to and from Turkey.

Scheduled groupage services operate each weekend, providing a fast and reliable door-to-door transportation service with guaranteed departures to/from our Istanbul freight centre every Friday.

These are ultra-secure driver accompanied services, moving door-to-door without transhipment or route deviation

We provide Customs clearance, national distribution and collection services in the UK and Turkey.

We offer the widest range of specialist equipment to carry general cargo, temperature-controlled product, hanging garments and out of gauge loads: by road; by intermodal road/rail services; and by short sea container line.

Tilt, Mega and Box trailers

Temperature controlled lorries

Trailers with hanging clothes rails

Intermodal containers, including 20', 40', 40'HC

We can provide transit, short-term and long-term warehousing in our Turkish and UK freight centres, where we can also offer order checking, quality control, inventory management and distribution services.

Import/export services

Part / Full loads

Express service

Daily collection & deliveries

Weekly departures

Shipments available for delivery every Monday

Pallet distribution

24hr Customs clearance formalities

Local representation

CONTACT US NOW TO MAKE A BOOKING OR GET A PRICE

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Turkey Road freight Services | MIQ Logistics (UK)

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Turkey is the EU's sixth biggest trading partner. It is a global leader in the production of cotton yarn, mohair, and synthetic fibres, making it the fourth largest supplier to the clothing industry worldwide and the second largest in the EU.

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Strengths and weakness, Pestel and critical path.

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Stats and analysis on the economic climate of Turkey.

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Economic Indicators for Turkey including actual values, historical data charts, an economic calendar, time-series statistics, business news, long term forecasts and short-term predictions for Turkey economy.

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Millenials, and GEN X,Y,Z

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Millennials and Generation Z are starting to monopolize the business content over the internet, conference presentations, research papers and eventually sales and marketing strategies. At least one popular article that spread all over the internet in one day was " Generation who refuse to grow up: No mortgage. No marriage. No children. No career plan. Like so many 30-somethings, Marianne Power admits she's one of them..." (the so-called Peter Pan Generation), from Daily Mail.

Everybody is talking about the lifestyle, the habits, the preferences and the way to engage these generations. There are 6 defined generations living now in the modern world. We will not go much into details, but we found it useful to write the basics, even if most of the data comes from US and Australian research and less from European sources.

The Greatest Generation: Born between 1901 - 1924, they are those who experienced the Great Depression and World War II in their adulthood, all leading to strong models of teamwork to overcome and progress. They are our great-grandfathers, growing up without modern conveniences like refrigerators, electricity and air conditioning. They are the generation that remembers life without airplanes, radio, and TV.

The Silent Generation: Also known as Builders or Maturists, born in between 1924 - 1945, coming of age during the postwar happiness. Jazz, Swing, Frank Sinatra, Gone With The Wind and Mickey Mouse generation. We are talking about pre-feminism, staying at home moms and men pledging their loyalty to a lifetime job. The children who grew up during this time worked very hard and kept quiet. It was commonly understood that children should be seen and not heard.

While there were many civil rights leaders like Martin Luther King, Jr., Malcolm X and Robert F. Kennedy or artists like Andy Warhol, Clint Eastwood, Bob Dylan, John Lennon, Ray Charles, Jimi Hendrix, the "Silents" focused on their careers rather than on activism, and people were largely encouraged to conform with social norms.

Baby Boomers: On this, no one says it better than The Telegraph: " Those born in the years after World War II, when there was - thanks to soldiers returning home - a significant spike in births, both in America and in Britain. These are the men and women who tuned in, got high, dropped out, dodged the draft, swung in the Sixties and became hippies in the Seventies. Some, like Bill Clinton, made it to the White House. Idealistic and uncynical, this was the generation that fought the cold war and smashed down the Berlin Wall."

The generation can be segmented into two: The Leading-Edge Baby Boomers are individuals born between 1946 and 1955, those who, for US, came of age during the Vietnam War era. The other half of the generation was born between 1956 and 1964 and is called Late Boomers, or Trailing-Edge Boomers.

It is the Rock and Roll, Elvis, Beatles, Woodstock, Miniskirts, Barbie generation. The first two-income household generation, the first TV generation, the first divorce generation, where divorce was beginning to be accepted as a tolerable reality. The first tolerant generation. Envision technology and innovation as requiring a learning process.

Generation X: Born between 1965 and 1980, they are the "latch-key kids" who grew up street-smart but isolated, often with divorced or career-driven parents. Sloane Rangers, Yuppies, they are seen as the renaissance of entrepreneurship. Most remember being in school without computers and then after, the introduction of computers in middle school or high school. More interested in philosophizing than settling with a long-term career and family, they tend to commit to self and average 7 career changes in their lifetime, unlike earlier generations. Society and thus individuals are envisioned as disposable. Late to marry (after cohabitation) and quick to divorce...many single parents.

Gen Xers are often called the MTV Generation. They experienced the emergence of music videos, new wave music, electronic, glam rock, heavy metal, punk, grunge and hip hop. It is the Nirvana, U2, Madonna, torn jeans, Friends, Beverly Hills 90210, PC generation.

They are into labels and brand names. They want what they want and want it now, but struggle to buy, and most are deeply in bank and credit card debt. With a high levels of skepticism, "what's in it for me?" defines them as consumers. Refered to as Digital Immigrants.

Generation Y or Millennials: There are no precise dates when the generation starts and ends. Researchers and commentators use birth years ranging from the early 1980s to the early 2000s. Known as sophisticated, technology wise, immune to most traditional marketing and sales pitches, they've seen it all and been exposed to it all since early childhood.

American sociologist Kathleen Shaputis labeled Millennials as the Peter Pan generation, because of their' perceived tendency to delay some steps into adulthood (like housing, career and marriage) for longer periods than most generations before them. These labels were also a reference to a trend toward members living with their parents for longer.

According to a Goldman Sachs research: " Millennials have come of age during a time of technological change, globalization and economic disruption. That's given them a different set of behaviors and experiences than their parents. They have been slower to marry and move out on their own, and have shown different attitudes to ownership that have helped spawn what's being called a "sharing economy." They're also the first generation of digital natives, and their affinity for technology helps shape how they shop. They are used to instant access to price comparisons, product information and peer reviews. Finally, they are dedicated to wellness, devoting time and money to exercising and eating right. Their active lifestyle influences trends in everything from food and drink to fashion."

They are the Yahoo, mobile phones, Google, Facebook, iPhone generation. With unlimited access to information, they tend to be assertive, with strong views. Envision the world as a 24/7 place; want fast and immediate processing. Generation Y are less brand loyal and the speed of the Internet made them flexible and changing in their fashion, style consciousness and where and how it is communicated with. Refered to as Digital Natives.

Generation Z: It is the generation born after 1995 and they have never known a world without computers and cell phones. Their age now spans from pre-schoolers to teenagers and they are digital integrators, having integrated technology seamlessly into their lives, and having used it from the youngest age; it is almost like the air that they breathe, permeating almost all areas of their lifestyle and relationships. They are savvy consumers and they know what they want and how to get it and they are over saturated with brands.

Globally focused, visually engaged, educationally transformed, socially defined. It is the generation that will experiment Google glass, nano-computing, 3-D printing, driverless cars. Refered to as "Technoholics", because they are entirely dependent on IT. There is a lot of research on them and their characteristics and a helpful piece of article you can find here.

Below is a summary from Barclays, but all in all McCrindle Australia has done great research work on the subject.

What comes after Generation Z? Starting with the launch of the iPad in 2010, many have jumped to call it the begining of the Generation Alpha. There is still time for them to develop and form personality traits for researchers to label, so for now let's watch them grow and enjoy every moment of innocence and love spent together.

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The Generation Guide - Millennials, Gen X, Y, Z and Baby Boomers

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The Generation Guide - Millennials, Gen X, Y, Z and Baby Boomers.

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Last year Reiss did a SS19 press event at their flagship store in London. i aim to do the same but move it to after Xmas to give some excitement.

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Spring Summer 2019 Womens Press Event | REISS

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Preview the season ahead as we reveal the highlights from our exclusive Spring/Summer '19 press event

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Properties and history, manufacturing finishes.

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Mid-market fashion retailer Reiss benefited from fewer markdowns, operational improvements, upgraded product and the publicity generated by the Duchess of Cambridge's fondness for the brand to post improved results for last year.

Reiss

And importantly, it said that early SS19 sales "have maintained the positive momentum that built towards the end of last year, reflecting our drive to unlock the brand's potential."

The company reported double-digit sales growth on a like-for-like basis with an increase of 13.2% in the year to the beginning of February. Its total sales rose a healthy 8.3% to reach £186.3 million. Given that the previous year included 53 weeks, the increase would have been 10.1% on a 52-week comparable basis. And its earnings (before interest, tax, depreciation and amortisation) rose as much as 21.3% to £19.3 million.

In the first 10 weeks of the new financial year, group sales have risen 27.9% with UK like-for-likes up 27.6% and international (which remains a relatively small part of the business for now) even stronger with a 38.6% increase.

The company has transformed itself in the past two years since chief executive Christos Angelides joined, with a focus on product improvements, technology upgrades, and better customer service and it has seen success even as higher-priced brands with similar profiles (such as LK Bennett) have struggled.

Last year Reiss succeeded in selling more merchandise at full price and also focused on expanding abroad in strategic markets. It launched online sales in the US in a deal with upscale department store chain Nordstrom.

But it's also heavily focused on its physical shops of which it has around 119 globally at present. It's planning to open 40 new points of sale this year and is also set to launch new footwear and accessories collections.

Angelides said: "The initiatives we put in place to refresh the brand and product offer, both in-store and online, have resonated well with our customers resulting in healthy sales and EBITDA growth for 2018. Last year, we continued a programme of investment across all areas of the business, that specifically focused on upgrading the design and quality of the Reiss product offer. This, coupled with operational improvements, has delivered a step change in performance."

This will be good news for Warburg Pincus, the private equity firm that bought control of the brand from founder David Reiss three years ago, with rumours that it's looking to make a profit from its investment and sell the brand.

Copyright © 2019 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.

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Reiss booms as product and strategy changes score with UK and US shoppers

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Mid-market fashion retailer Reiss benefited from fewer markdowns, operational improvements, upgraded product and the publicity generated by the Duchess of Cambridge's fondness for the brand to post improved results for last year. And importantly, it said that early SS19 sales "have maintained the positive momentum that built towards the end of last year, reflecting our drive to unlock the brand's potential."

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Reiss has 265k followers and 3129 posts. It is very editorial keeping in style with the Reiss look.

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targeted newletters on new items and upcoming trends.

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REISS | Style inspiration, behind the scenes highlights and a visual insight into this season's styling directive. See more at Reiss.com. #ReadyInReiss

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Reiss are part of the Ethical Trading Initiative, there websites draws attention to their policies on modern slavery and the codes of conducts they expect from manufacturers.

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This Statement has been published in accordance with the Modern Slavery Act 2015 and California Transparency in Supply Chains Act 2010. It sets out the steps taken by REISS LIMITED ("REISS") during financial year ending 2 February 2019 to prevent modern slavery and human trafficking in its business and supply chain.

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Discussing the pros and cons of Modal.

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The choice of the United Kingdom's customs model with the EU post-Brexit is vital. The UK exports around half of its goods to the EU. The need to avoid a hard Irish border in order to maintain peace in the region shows that the issue is broader than economics. However, the UK government is currently locked in a standoff over a decision on the future customs arrangement with the EU. The customs partnership, backed by the Prime Minister, has not (yet) secured support in the cabinet.

The so-called 'max fac' ('maximum facilitation'), a rival plan favoured by hard-Brexiters, relies on technology to keep minimal border-checks. Whatever route is taken in a 'Brexit means Brexit' world, it will have to be a customs arrangement/union outside membership of the EU. Leaving substance aside, the concept itself is not novel.

The EU has customs unions with the non-EU countries San Marino, Andorra and, most notably, Turkey. It also has customs facilitation treaties with countries such as Switzerland and Norway, but these treaties do not abolish all border checks on goods.

So, what does a customs union without EU membership look like? We shall look at the largest such customs union: the EU-Turkey Customs Union (EU-Turkey CU).
The EU-Turkey trade relations
Turkey is not a member of the EU but its closer relationship with the EU dates back to the early years of the EU's foundation. Turkey applied for an association membership of the then European Economic Community (the EEC) in 1959. Four years later it signed an association agreement with the EEC, commonly known as the Ankara Agreement (for more on association agreements, see our explainer), which included setting up the process to create a customs union between Turkey and the EEC.

In 1970 the two signed the Additional Protocol to the Ankara Agreement which removed tariffs and quantitative restrictions on industrial goods in bilateral trade. The EU-Turkey CU was finally established on 1 January 1996 by Decision No 1/95 of the EC-Turkey Association Council (the CU Decision).

The creation of the EU-Turkey CU facilitated trade between the two partners. Turkey is now the EU's fifth trading partner which amounts to around 4% of total EU foreign trade. The EU is Turkey's largest market with a share of 40.6% in Turkey's global trade, a number similar to that of the UK exports in goods and services to the EU. The largest share of EU-Turkey trade in goods is in machinery and transport equipment (around 44%).

The EU-Turkey CU is a CU with the CU. Let us explain. The CU is the internal EU Customs Union (the EUCU) between its Member States. It is complete and covers all goods. The EU-Turkey CU is a separate customs union between Turkey and the EUCU.

The EU-Turkey CU removes tariffs and quantitative restrictions (i.e. taxes) in bilateral trade between any and all of the EU Member States and Turkey for the covered goods. It also sets a single external tariff, that is, the EU and Turkey charge the same duties on imports from third countries (i.e. countries other than EU Member States and Turkey).

Unlike the EU's own Customs Union, the EU-Turkey CU is an incomplete customs union. It covers trade in industrial goods but does not include agricultural products (except certain processed agricultural products), coal and steel products, or public procurement.

Also, like other customs unions, it does not cover services. These are to some extent covered by separate bilateral preferential agreements; and the EU and Turkey are involved in further talks on trade liberalisation. The EU-Turkey CU, together with these bilateral preferential agreements, are referred to as a bilateral preferential trade framework (BPTF).

Both Turkey and the UK will lose duty-free access to each other's markets post-Brexit since the UK will no longer be part of the EU-Turkey BPTF, unless and until the UK negotiates such access (with the EU or through a separate arrangement with Turkey).

In relation to agricultural products, the preferential agreement is non-reciprocal. That is, the EU has eliminated almost all duties on imports of agricultural and fishery products from Turkey, while most of EU exports to Turkey are subject to non-preferential tariffs. The CU Decision envisages a progressive expansion of the preferential treatment in agricultural products.

An agreement on free trade in services was envisaged in the Ankara Agreement and the Additional Protocol, but the abolition of restrictions has not yet been achieved. Trade in services between the EU and Turkey is based on the General Agreement on Trade in Services (GATS) under the framework of the World Trade Organization, as well as a "standstill" on any new restrictions between the two sides.
Common external tariff
Customs unions not only eliminate trade barriers between their members, but they also set a common external tariff (also known as the 'Common Customs Tariff') for imports from other countries. Turkey has an obligation to apply the EU's external tariff to imports from third countries for products covered by the EU-Turkey CU.

This obligation is strict. Article 14(2) of the CU Decision which establishes the EU-Turkey CU says that under no circumstances may Turkey be authorized to apply a customs tariff which is lower than the common external tariff for any product.

So, Turkey must charge the same external tariff as the EU. Tariff rates differ from one kind of import to another, depending on where the good is produced. For some countries the EU applies preferential treatment (i.e. reduced or zero-rate import duties). Preferential tariffs are applied to goods coming from a number of developing countries. Turkey would have to apply them too.

Preferential tariffs would also apply to countries with which the EU has negotiated free trade agreements (FTAs). For example, the FTA between the EU and Canada (the EU-Canada Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement or CETA) eliminates 98% of tariffs in bilateral trade. So Canadian goods entering Turkey directly will be subject to the tariffs laid down in the CETA.

Likewise, Canadian goods entering Turkey indirectly via Greece will have access to Turkish markets without restriction as a result of the EU-Turkey CU. This is because being part of a customs union means that once an import from a third country enters the EU and pays import duties at the first point of entry (i.e. Greece or any of the EU Member States) it could access Turkey's markets without having to pay any further duties.

Since Turkey is not a member of the EU it cannot participate in the EU's FTAs as a Member State. Benefits granted through the EU's FTAs do not automatically apply to Turkey.

Neither does Turkey have a say in the EU's trade policies. In order for Turkish goods to be able to benefit from preferential access to, say, the Canadian market, it has to negotiate its own agreements with the EU's partners., That, however, may cause issues. First, even if Turkey wanted to negotiate agreements with the EU FTA partners, there may be delays as it takes years to conclude an FTA.

Second, because those partners already enjoy access to the Turkish market via the EU-Turkey CU, they have little incentive to negotiate an agreement with Turkey. Third, in some cases, third countries refuse to enter free trade agreements with Turkey (as is the case, for example, with Algeria and South Africa). Thus, Turkish producers may be disadvantaged in comparison to EU exporters on the markets of EU's partners.

If pursued, a customs union option with the EU may pose similar problems for the UK post-Brexit. The UK would have to negotiate FTAs with the EU trading partners and grant them the same preferences (that is, apply the same tariff as that the EU). Third countries, however, could be reluctant to engage in such negotiations since they would anyways have access to UK markets through their FTAs with the EU. The issue would be especially important today when the EU is negotiating a number of ambitious FTAs.
Regulatory alignment
In addition to following the EU's common external tariff, Turkey is also under an obligation to harmonize as far as possible its laws with the EU's legal framework in areas of direct relevance to the operation of the CU (Article 47 of the CU Decision).

Areas of direct relevance are listed in Article 54(2) of the CU Decision and include commercial (ie trade) policy and agreements with third countries in relation to industrial products, legislation on the abolition of technical barriers to trade and industrial products, competition policy, intellectual property rights and rules.

Importantly, Turkey is also obliged to adopt the EU's rules of origin for products covered by the EU-Turkey CU (Article 28 of the CU Decision). Rules of origin determine where the imported product has been produced for the purposes of applying preferential import duties (for more on rules of origin, see our explainer).

The CU Decision provides that its provisions which mirror EU law must be interpreted in conformity with the relevant decisions of the Court of Justice of the European Union (Article 66 of the CU Decision).

While the provision stops short of establishing direct jurisdiction of the ECJ in Turkey (which would be the case if it was in the CU), the ECJ's interpretative jurisdiction, while limited, is nevertheless established.
What's next?
Unlike the EU-UK customs question which stems from the UK's withdrawing from the EU, the EU-Turkey CU is a product of closer integration. It is thus focused on expanding the relationship rather limiting it. At the EU-Turkey high level meeting held in May 2015, the parties agreed to start the process of widening the scope of the EU-Turkey BPTF.

Some suggest that the limited EU-Turkey CU should be replaced by a more comprehensive FTA between the EU and Turkey (or some form of a CU+FTA option). While an FTA could provide full trade liberalization, it would however require the introduction of product origin checks since under an FTA states would be free to apply their own external tariffs on non-signatory countries.

The EU-Turkey CU provides frictionless trade for certain goods, a model which may seem attractive for the UK's Brexit negotiators. However, some of its features - a common external tariff, regulatory alignment without participation in the decision-making, interpretative jurisdiction of the ECJ - are unlikely to be welcomed by some cabinet members. The question is whether parts of the EU-Turkey CU puzzle could be taken out or added to construct a 'hybrid' model which would satisfy both No 10 and Brussels.
By Catherine Barnard, Senior fellow at The UK in a Changing Europe and Emilija Leinarte, University of Cambridge.
Disclaimer:
The views expressed in this explainer are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the UK in a Changing Europe initiative.
View all explainers

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EU-Turkey Customs Union - UK in a changing Europe

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The choice of the United Kingdom's customs model with the EU post-Brexit is vital. The UK exports around half of its goods to the EU. The need to avoid a hard Irish border in order to maintain peace in the region shows that the issue is broader than economics.

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Getting ideas on where to source from in Europe. Turkey has strong lingerie manufactures as does Italy.

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lingerie / Find a Manufacturer producer operating in the 'Lingerie' business sector

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Welcome summer vacation season with REISS' new arrivals. The British fashion brand focuses on holiday pieces that channel pure relaxation vibes. From soft satins to delicate lace details, these designs will be perfect for warm weather days. Slinky jumpsuits, breezy mini dresses and plunging swimsuits will fit perfectly in your suitcase for that sunny getaway. Check out our favorite vacation pieces below, and shop more at REISS.com.

Related: Walk On in REISS' Spring Shoes

REISS Summer 2019 Vacation Style Guide

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Get Ready for the Summer Holidays with REISS' New Styles

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Welcome summer vacation season with REISS' new arrivals. The British fashion brand focuses on holiday pieces that channel pure relaxation vibes. From soft satins to delicate lace details, these designs will be perfect for warm weather days. Slinky jumpsuits, breezy mini dresses and plunging swimsuits will fit perfectly in your suitcase for that sunny getaway.

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understanding why garments need to be durable and the testing involved.

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In our latest #ExpertQ&A, we spent some time in the James Heal lab, speaking with Technical Specialists, Sara Williams and Alice Davies. We discuss what 'Durability means', how we define it, and how we can test for it.

This is crucial in an industry that is increasingly competitive for retailers and brand owners, with the rise of 'fast fashion' and the need for quality testing to support diverse performance and commercial requirements.

Understanding and improving the durability of textiles is crucial for textile scientists, technologists, engineers and those designing, testing and manufacturing textiles - yet, 'Durability', although a simple word to use, is often a hard concept to define, explains Sara:

"Textile items undergo a wide range of challenges related to their use and care, and can fail (and thus lack durability) in many ways. The fault may lie with the item or the way it is used or the way it is washed and dried. In order to minimise unexpected failures, laboratory testing plays a key role. Laboratory tests, carefully developed and maintained, mimic conditions of use - and careful interpretation of results can provide valuable insights for the manufacturer and retailer."

The ability of a fabric to resist wear is an essential aspect of its performance.

Sara Williams - Technical Specialist, JamesHeal

Q: Sara, can you explain what Durability testing is?
Sara: "Well, Webster's Dictionary defines 'durable' as " able to exist for a long time without significant deterioration", and this therefore, is the basis of the property that we know as 'durability'.

Yet, there's a point for discussion here. Today, casual dressing is more prevalent than ever before; and popular 'fast fashion' may dictate that garments are not required to exist for a long time.

So, we may have to contemplate two different kinds of product:

Those that are designed to last for a long time, formalwear or workwear, for example;

and, those that are designed to be 'fit for purpose', often garments of a more casual nature.

Thus different performance requirements are required for products in different sectors of the market."
But this isn't the complete story either...
"If a consumer pays $10 for a formal dress, does she expect to receive a lower quality garment than someone who pays $100 for a formal dress?

Whichever is the case, there has to be a testing regime that ensures that the fabric or garment properties are suitable for the market sector in which they will be sold."

This regime must be based on widely accepted and standardised test methods. It must also utilise controlled conditions and accurate, calibrated instruments. Over the years, James Heal has worked tirelessly to support the industry by providing products and services that meet these requirements.

Equally the Test Materials used to perform the tests must be correct and consistent. All of James Heal's Test Materials are rigorously specified and tested so you can have complete confidence that they will receive a consistent product that will always conform to the relevant specifications.

James Heal produces high quality instruments, service, calibration and test materials; if the users are educated, and trained technicians carry out the tests correctly and assess the results consistently, they will produce the vitally needed, accurate and correlateable, results.

Alice Davies - Technical Specialist, James Heal

Q: So what aspects of the garments are tested for their durability?
Alice: " Simply the aspects of the garment that will make their appearance or performance unacceptable to the wearer.

Three categories of property should be evaluated:

1) Durability of colour - amongst other properties, colour change during laundering, colour change or staining due to water or perspiration solutions, staining of contrasting parts of the garment during laundering or wear, fastness to crocking and colour change due to exposure to light;

2) - Physical Durability tensile and tear strength, seam performance, elongation and recovery, bursting strength, resistance to abrasion, propensity to form pills and snags, change in garment size when laundering, change of handfeel following washing, stain release performance and so forth;

3) Visual Appearance - durability of 'wrinkle-free' finishes and 'easy to iron' finishes, assessment of surface disturbance following wear and repeated laundering, seam puckering and shape retention etc."

Q: What are the typical finishes that are tested for durability to washing?
Sara: "Those which are applied to fabrics or garments which, when incorrectly applied, or when an incorrect choice of chemicals has been made have an adverse affect on the ongoing performance of the finish.

Typical examples of such finishes are wrinkle-free and easy to iron finishes, anti-pill, stain release and flame retardant finishes. Repeated laundering of all of these finishes can have a deleterious effect.

Testing all of these finishes is equally important for small and large producers and this is where the choice of testing instruments is so important.

James Heal's Impulse Random Tumble Pilling Tester is ideal for testing anti-pill finishes using the ASTM D3512 Test Method.

This instrument, with its single test container, is ideal for the small producer whilst the ability to connect up to four, independently operated units together, from single air and electrical supplies, is the most cost-effective and efficient solution for the large volume producer.

With an increase in rapid prototyping and direct-to-garment printing, a number of tests can be performed in the DynaWash Duo, including print durability, pleat retention, cockling, flock retention, crinkling, differential shrinkage and security of attachments, plus many others.

This is particularly useful for laboratories performing a high volume of repeated wash tests"

Q: What type of testing do you consider to be durability testing?
Alice: "That which clearly highlights the possibility of serious customer complaint if the garment fails to meet the relevant specification.

An example of critical testing is Abrasion Testing. James Heal's Martindale range of highly specified instruments are designed to be easy to operate - a feature of all our instruments - so little training is required for your operators, saving time and costs.

Another example is that of testing a fabric's potential for snagging. In many synthetic blend products the ease with which unsightly snags, or loops of thread, can be pulled out of the construction can be a major source of consumer dissatisfaction. "

Buyers and Test Houses, together with James Heal, developed an instrument, test method, assessment procedure and instrument called Snagpod.

This package work has been widely acclaimed by many as having produced a snagging test that much more closely represents what happens to a product in 'real life', than does any other existing testing protocol.

Buyers and Test Houses, together with James Heal, developed an instrument, test method, assessment procedure and instrument called Snagpod. This package work has been widely acclaimed by many as having produced a snagging test that much more closely represents what happens to a product in 'real life', than does any other existing testing protocol.

Q: In your opinion are most tests applicable to fabrics and to garments?
Sara: "Yes, if testing is carried out at critical points during the fabric production process then it is possible to predict the performance of the end-product.

We believe that testing fabric during and after production allows the Supply Chain to become more efficient. If fabrics and processes are developed to be technically correct, then Process, or Quality Control Testing will predict that the garment will meet the pre-agreed specification.

Quality Assurance Testing of the finished garment then gives the buyer the confidence that the products that go into his stores will meet his requirements and will support his position in the market-place.

Of course, some tests are better carried out on fabrics than on garments. For example tests such as Light Fastness on TruFade with Solarsens irradiance control are most suitable for fabric testing.

Light fastness tests relate specifically to dyestuff choice, not dyestuff application; so it's critical that any problems associated with this phenomena are highlighted at the earliest stage in a garments development. If light fastness testing is carried out only at the end of the process the failure is very costly in terms of the money spent to produce the failed product. It may also have a serious effect on the buyer who may have to withdraw the product at a very late stage.

Q: Are there are specific types of garments that may be viewed differently?
Alice: "Workwear and Industrial wear products such as uniforms, overalls, protective clothing and those with high visibility safety panels often fall into a different category. These products are often subjected to much harsher use and more searching environments during their lifecycle.

Military uniforms fall into this category and these may be seen as the most extreme examples of the need for accurate and correlateable durability testing. Literally, lives may depend on the performance of the product. This again totally supports the James Heal philosophy - that the need for accuracy is vital.

Often the lifecycle is also expected to be longer than for a fashion or formal piece of domestic apparel. In many cases, they are laundered on contract, not domestically; and it is therefore critical that the garment is developed and designed such that these more difficult performance criteria are accommodated in the product specification."

Final thoughts

Accurate test results that come from tightly specified regularly serviced and calibrated machines, quality assured Test Materials and well trained technicians and they are critical for an industry that supports such diverse performance and commercial requirements.

Our philosophy is always to maximise its support for the supply chain by providing the highest standards possible in everything it offers, and by this, to provide the greatest benefit for all of the companies and organisations that it works with.
If you have further questions about materials testing, our Applications Support KnowledgeHub is the best place to start. It's a free, online knowledge centre where you can search our FAQs or submit a ticket to our Textile Specialists.
Already have an account? Log in Need to register? Sign up

The Technical Team offer applications support to customers around the world, and are also responsible for quality control of our test materials. We help with the product development process; checking to see if our products comply with relevant standards,evaluating them from the user perspective. We work with instrument prototypes to ensure they meet our customer's needs, and we also sit on standards committees to guide the creation and revision of standards. We offer our expertise on testing as technologists, but also on how the instruments that do the testing work.

Alice & Sara - Technical Specialists, James Heal

About the Authors:

Sara Williams is a Technical Specialist at James Heal, working closely with Alice and Peter as part of the Techical Team.

As our 'Core Instrument Technical Specialist', Sara uses her experience within the garment & textile industry, to provide expertise and support to James Heal's customers, colleagues and channel partners.

"I'm happy answer any of your technical questions"

Contact Sara
Alice Davies is a Technical Specialist at James Heal, working with Sara and Peter in the Technical department, and collaborating closely with the Innovation team. Her educational credentials include a BSc in Textile Design and MSc in Textiles. With five years' experience in the textile industry, Alice has developed a specialism in technical / performance textiles, particularly for sports and outdoor clothing. Using her knowledge gained from previous roles as a Materials Innovation Analyst for World Textile Information Network (WTiN), and technical roles at Berghaus, Adidas and Sainsburys (Tu); in her role at James Heal, Alice is focused on providing technical support for Test Materials and working on new product development.

"Contact me to discuss your technical needs and challenges."
Contact Alice
Read some of Alice's Technical articles for WTiN:

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Expert Q&A: Durability Testing In The Age of Fast Fashion & Diverse Performance - James Heal

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In our latest #ExpertQ&A, we spent some time in the James Heal lab, speaking with Technical Specialists, Sara Williams and Alice Davies. We discuss what 'Durability means', how we define it, and how we can test for it.

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The issues Turkey/UK will face after Brexit. Will incur import costs and tarrifs.

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The choice of the United Kingdom's customs model with the EU post-Brexit is vital. The UK exports around half of its goods to the EU. The need to avoid a hard Irish border in order to maintain peace in the region shows that the issue is broader than economics. However, the UK government is currently locked in a standoff over a decision on the future customs arrangement with the EU. The customs partnership, backed by the Prime Minister, has not (yet) secured support in the cabinet.

The so-called 'max fac' ('maximum facilitation'), a rival plan favoured by hard-Brexiters, relies on technology to keep minimal border-checks. Whatever route is taken in a 'Brexit means Brexit' world, it will have to be a customs arrangement/union outside membership of the EU. Leaving substance aside, the concept itself is not novel.

The EU has customs unions with the non-EU countries San Marino, Andorra and, most notably, Turkey. It also has customs facilitation treaties with countries such as Switzerland and Norway, but these treaties do not abolish all border checks on goods.

So, what does a customs union without EU membership look like? We shall look at the largest such customs union: the EU-Turkey Customs Union (EU-Turkey CU).
The EU-Turkey trade relations
Turkey is not a member of the EU but its closer relationship with the EU dates back to the early years of the EU's foundation. Turkey applied for an association membership of the then European Economic Community (the EEC) in 1959. Four years later it signed an association agreement with the EEC, commonly known as the Ankara Agreement (for more on association agreements, see our explainer), which included setting up the process to create a customs union between Turkey and the EEC.

In 1970 the two signed the Additional Protocol to the Ankara Agreement which removed tariffs and quantitative restrictions on industrial goods in bilateral trade. The EU-Turkey CU was finally established on 1 January 1996 by Decision No 1/95 of the EC-Turkey Association Council (the CU Decision).

The creation of the EU-Turkey CU facilitated trade between the two partners. Turkey is now the EU's fifth trading partner which amounts to around 4% of total EU foreign trade. The EU is Turkey's largest market with a share of 40.6% in Turkey's global trade, a number similar to that of the UK exports in goods and services to the EU. The largest share of EU-Turkey trade in goods is in machinery and transport equipment (around 44%).

The EU-Turkey CU is a CU with the CU. Let us explain. The CU is the internal EU Customs Union (the EUCU) between its Member States. It is complete and covers all goods. The EU-Turkey CU is a separate customs union between Turkey and the EUCU.

The EU-Turkey CU removes tariffs and quantitative restrictions (i.e. taxes) in bilateral trade between any and all of the EU Member States and Turkey for the covered goods. It also sets a single external tariff, that is, the EU and Turkey charge the same duties on imports from third countries (i.e. countries other than EU Member States and Turkey).

Unlike the EU's own Customs Union, the EU-Turkey CU is an incomplete customs union. It covers trade in industrial goods but does not include agricultural products (except certain processed agricultural products), coal and steel products, or public procurement.

Also, like other customs unions, it does not cover services. These are to some extent covered by separate bilateral preferential agreements; and the EU and Turkey are involved in further talks on trade liberalisation. The EU-Turkey CU, together with these bilateral preferential agreements, are referred to as a bilateral preferential trade framework (BPTF).

Both Turkey and the UK will lose duty-free access to each other's markets post-Brexit since the UK will no longer be part of the EU-Turkey BPTF, unless and until the UK negotiates such access (with the EU or through a separate arrangement with Turkey).

In relation to agricultural products, the preferential agreement is non-reciprocal. That is, the EU has eliminated almost all duties on imports of agricultural and fishery products from Turkey, while most of EU exports to Turkey are subject to non-preferential tariffs. The CU Decision envisages a progressive expansion of the preferential treatment in agricultural products.

An agreement on free trade in services was envisaged in the Ankara Agreement and the Additional Protocol, but the abolition of restrictions has not yet been achieved. Trade in services between the EU and Turkey is based on the General Agreement on Trade in Services (GATS) under the framework of the World Trade Organization, as well as a "standstill" on any new restrictions between the two sides.
Common external tariff
Customs unions not only eliminate trade barriers between their members, but they also set a common external tariff (also known as the 'Common Customs Tariff') for imports from other countries. Turkey has an obligation to apply the EU's external tariff to imports from third countries for products covered by the EU-Turkey CU.

This obligation is strict. Article 14(2) of the CU Decision which establishes the EU-Turkey CU says that under no circumstances may Turkey be authorized to apply a customs tariff which is lower than the common external tariff for any product.

So, Turkey must charge the same external tariff as the EU. Tariff rates differ from one kind of import to another, depending on where the good is produced. For some countries the EU applies preferential treatment (i.e. reduced or zero-rate import duties). Preferential tariffs are applied to goods coming from a number of developing countries. Turkey would have to apply them too.

Preferential tariffs would also apply to countries with which the EU has negotiated free trade agreements (FTAs). For example, the FTA between the EU and Canada (the EU-Canada Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement or CETA) eliminates 98% of tariffs in bilateral trade. So Canadian goods entering Turkey directly will be subject to the tariffs laid down in the CETA.

Likewise, Canadian goods entering Turkey indirectly via Greece will have access to Turkish markets without restriction as a result of the EU-Turkey CU. This is because being part of a customs union means that once an import from a third country enters the EU and pays import duties at the first point of entry (i.e. Greece or any of the EU Member States) it could access Turkey's markets without having to pay any further duties.

Since Turkey is not a member of the EU it cannot participate in the EU's FTAs as a Member State. Benefits granted through the EU's FTAs do not automatically apply to Turkey.

Neither does Turkey have a say in the EU's trade policies. In order for Turkish goods to be able to benefit from preferential access to, say, the Canadian market, it has to negotiate its own agreements with the EU's partners., That, however, may cause issues. First, even if Turkey wanted to negotiate agreements with the EU FTA partners, there may be delays as it takes years to conclude an FTA.

Second, because those partners already enjoy access to the Turkish market via the EU-Turkey CU, they have little incentive to negotiate an agreement with Turkey. Third, in some cases, third countries refuse to enter free trade agreements with Turkey (as is the case, for example, with Algeria and South Africa). Thus, Turkish producers may be disadvantaged in comparison to EU exporters on the markets of EU's partners.

If pursued, a customs union option with the EU may pose similar problems for the UK post-Brexit. The UK would have to negotiate FTAs with the EU trading partners and grant them the same preferences (that is, apply the same tariff as that the EU). Third countries, however, could be reluctant to engage in such negotiations since they would anyways have access to UK markets through their FTAs with the EU. The issue would be especially important today when the EU is negotiating a number of ambitious FTAs.
Regulatory alignment
In addition to following the EU's common external tariff, Turkey is also under an obligation to harmonize as far as possible its laws with the EU's legal framework in areas of direct relevance to the operation of the CU (Article 47 of the CU Decision).

Areas of direct relevance are listed in Article 54(2) of the CU Decision and include commercial (ie trade) policy and agreements with third countries in relation to industrial products, legislation on the abolition of technical barriers to trade and industrial products, competition policy, intellectual property rights and rules.

Importantly, Turkey is also obliged to adopt the EU's rules of origin for products covered by the EU-Turkey CU (Article 28 of the CU Decision). Rules of origin determine where the imported product has been produced for the purposes of applying preferential import duties (for more on rules of origin, see our explainer).

The CU Decision provides that its provisions which mirror EU law must be interpreted in conformity with the relevant decisions of the Court of Justice of the European Union (Article 66 of the CU Decision).

While the provision stops short of establishing direct jurisdiction of the ECJ in Turkey (which would be the case if it was in the CU), the ECJ's interpretative jurisdiction, while limited, is nevertheless established.
What's next?
Unlike the EU-UK customs question which stems from the UK's withdrawing from the EU, the EU-Turkey CU is a product of closer integration. It is thus focused on expanding the relationship rather limiting it. At the EU-Turkey high level meeting held in May 2015, the parties agreed to start the process of widening the scope of the EU-Turkey BPTF.

Some suggest that the limited EU-Turkey CU should be replaced by a more comprehensive FTA between the EU and Turkey (or some form of a CU+FTA option). While an FTA could provide full trade liberalization, it would however require the introduction of product origin checks since under an FTA states would be free to apply their own external tariffs on non-signatory countries.

The EU-Turkey CU provides frictionless trade for certain goods, a model which may seem attractive for the UK's Brexit negotiators. However, some of its features - a common external tariff, regulatory alignment without participation in the decision-making, interpretative jurisdiction of the ECJ - are unlikely to be welcomed by some cabinet members. The question is whether parts of the EU-Turkey CU puzzle could be taken out or added to construct a 'hybrid' model which would satisfy both No 10 and Brussels.
By Catherine Barnard, Senior fellow at The UK in a Changing Europe and Emilija Leinarte, University of Cambridge.
Disclaimer:
The views expressed in this explainer are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the UK in a Changing Europe initiative.
View all explainers

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EU-Turkey Customs Union - UK in a changing Europe

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The choice of the United Kingdom's customs model with the EU post-Brexit is vital. The UK exports around half of its goods to the EU. The need to avoid a hard Irish border in order to maintain peace in the region shows that the issue is broader than economics.

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Abstract Watercolour artists featuring nature and botanical elements.

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Painting is an intuitive process of creating space, a layering of experiences that evokes both unexpected complexity and the bareness of the moment. It is a process of being present to what comes, to new subtleties.

Wherever I am, lately I find myself looking to the light. I look through the trees, in the heavy clouds, at the reflections in the creek. It is ever changing and always there, a basic element in our daily experience. It is the light that makes the shadows that I so love to draw. Where there is light, there is clarity and warmth, and the hope of what is ahead.

I am seeking that glimmer when the surface of the painting truly becomes the edge of a space. The elemental light is exposed and I am immersed, beckoning to something much more expansive.

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Painting is an intuitive process of creating space, a layering of experiences that evokes both unexpected complexity and the bareness of the moment. It is a process of being present to what comes, to new subtleties. Wherever I am, lately I find myself looking to the light.

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ARTICLE on whats trending in womens underwear including launches and campaigns.

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Watercolour artist in bolder natural scenes.

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Reiss' current marketing strategy and analysis of weaknesses and strengths.

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Reiss' current marketing strategy and analysis of weaknesses and strengths.

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'In simplistic terms, digital marketing is the promotion of products or brands via one or more forms of electronic media. Digital marketing differs from traditional marketing in that it involves the use of channels and methods that enable an organization to analyse marketing campaigns and understand what is working and what isn't - typically in real time', (http//www.SAS.com, 2014, Digital Marketing ). By companies using digital marketing, their consumers are able to access any information at any time, it is consistent and also a reliable source for people to gain information and purchase products through the internet. It is one of the best websites for a high street retailer. Although it obviously only sells its own merchandise, it is user-friendly and easy to use. You can hover over the images and see the names and prices of each product, meaning I do not have to sieve through their products to find the one I was looking for. It is very easy to purchase through their website due it being so clear and simple to use.'Social media are now being used by the major companies so that they can be connected to the world through going digital, it keeps them interactive and allows for personalized marketing between their consumer. 'A social media program can provide organizations with detailed, virtually instant feedback from customers and valuable market intelligence,' (Blanchard, 2011, Page 8). Each day, millions of people use social media for status updates, blog posts, videos and news articles. Reiss have recognised that people are now spending more time online, for example, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Given this, Reiss have created an Instagram feed for updates and fashion fixes from the Reiss head quarter. Given the popularity of Instagram, Reiss need to channelize a social media strategy to uplift their brand recognition. It could be suggested that a way in which Reiss could improve their marketing strategy through Instagram, would be to get a better understanding of their target market, by reviewing profiles of current competitors, for example Hugo Boss, they will be able to get a clearer understanding of who they are trying to aim their company to. The website is their main digital promotional platform, it has a very fluid style and is easy to use; you can zoom in on the images to get a close up view of the product, which helps ensure consumer reliability for their customers. It offers design notes on the garment, trends and styling of the product, for example, what is suitable to wear with this look, and provides care and sizing so that the customer is informed with the measurements and required care. It uses a very minimalistic and formal layout and is clear from the moment you get onto the website, which also reflects upon the in store experience. Their Instagram is another huge benefit to their company, they have teamed up with many famous fashion bloggers worldwide to promote their products, creating a new platform for potential consumers. Their blog links in very well to the way in which they communicate through social media, especially Instagram. Reiss Instagram focuses on the lifestyle of the brand, including pictures of favourite locations and restaurants, unlike competitor, Karen Millen, which uses only images each of their collections. This could be a good way of getting their customers attention; customers want this 'Reiss lifestyle', as well as the clothes.

The internet allows for millions of people to be connected worldwide, with over 1 billion Internet users worldwide, businesses are now using the web to market their campaigns and products faster. Companies are now doing this as it essentially reduces on costs and savings. (Johnson and Scholes, 2006) said that companies have different levels of marketing strategies, depending on the global scale of their business. Search Marketing is a huge part of any successful website, Reiss will have adopted a Search engine optimization (SEO) as it is with paid search ads . Their website is very clear and engaging, with the company constantly getting new stock, they are strict on their stock intake and outtake, this allows their website to not have too much choice, unlike Asos, where the customer is sometimes overwhelmed with choice. There are also filters, which allow the customer to shop by size, colour and price, this means customers are able to prioritize their information, meaning their decision-making process leading up to the purchase is made a lot easier. HTML (HyperText Markup Language) is a format that is used to define the layout of web pages. HTML 5 has had an impact on the functionality of not only web pages, but also mobile applications; companies websites are able to load faster from this update. Reiss have never marketed through affiliates, for example, H&M recently collaborated with Alexander Wang, which increased each stores sale intake. However, Reiss recently took a different approach in digitally marketing through bloggers on their website, whereby the bloggers can post in season products on their Instagram or blog.Opt in emails have a huge influence on Reiss, customers now have the choice to join the 'Reiss List', whereby they can receive newsletters, be updated with events and get exclusive dates of when their nearest store will be going into sale, before the public. When looking at the structure of their website, you can see blueprints, which show a collection of minimal website concepts, showing minimal style for easy usage. Information architecture is the process of organizing data to support the usability of a business's website. Louis Rosenfeld and Peter Morville defined information architecture as context, content and users. According to Warnick, (2006), he advises that websites should be easy to read as most people do not read word for word, it also states that if web authors use a simple structure, people are more likely to take more information away. Applying this to the Reiss site, the taskbars are short and substantial, for example, there are links to best sellers and new stock. This is effective as viewers can review the information logically and efficiently.

Reiss also has a number of weaknesses; their website could be considered a weakness. Some customers may not like the idea of storing their personal information with the website. They also use their website through iPad sales, which can be made in store; this is exactly the same process as it would be from your home computer. Whether the customer is new to Reiss or an existing customer, they will have to agree to share their credit card details in the process of their purchase. If a customer had not logged out of their account, an order could be made from another customer's account, this may result in Reiss losing customers from this.

Every so often, Reiss do an in store event, where the customers can come into store and get free refreshments whilst being offered 10% all items. Reiss could have made a much larger profit by doing this through Instagram. Many companies offer this same promotion online, for example, French Connection recently made an offer of 10% off all products for just 24 hours. They posted an image to Instagram informing their audience of their discount, which will have had many more views, rather than an in store promotion, where by customers will have only been informed if they have been in the store, or are on the Reiss mailing list, which provides customers with all upcoming events.

Reiss are thriving with their success in international sales, this makes up for the fact that Reiss are not outdoing other companies in their online presence. An increase in competition could be considered as a huge threat to the company, five years ago, French connection would never have been seen as a threat, however, they have nearly 60k Instagram followers, with Reiss still only at 40k, this might mean that French Connection is offering something that Reiss is not. An action might need to be put into place on their website to keep up to date with the fast growing market. Their website and Instagram is a great way of positioning their brand within the market they desire. However, with Reiss having such a broad market, it is not always clear who their customer actually is. Their website could be used as a way to position their audience through campaigns and events, which could feature on their website. This is something many brands are doing now.

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'In simplistic terms, digital marketing is the promotion of products or brands via one or more forms of electronic media. Digital marketing differs from traditional marketing in that it involves the use of channels and methods that enable an organization to analyse marketing campaigns and understand what is working and what isn't - typically in real time', (http//www.SAS.com, 2014, Digital Marketing ).

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Abstract artist.

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Watercolor Paintings by Marta Spendowska, LLC - Modern Paintings

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Watercolor Paintings by Marta Spendowska, LLC — Modern Paintings

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Watercolor Paintings | Modern paintings | Abstract Paintings | Landscape Paintings | Framed art | Watercolor art | Giclee prints | Wall art prints | Abstract watercolor | Fine art prints | Acrylic trays and throw pillows from Marta Spendowska. ★ SHOP ★ contemporary art →

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Dye artists specialising in natural flowers and botanicals. Rolls fabric to create unique print effects.

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Cara Marie Piazza - Natural and Artisanal Dyer

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Cara Marie Piazza is a natural dyer and textile designer living and producing her work in New York City.

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The page you requested could not be found. If you are looking for information around a specific topic then please use the site search function above. Alternatively here is a current site map.

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Break down of some of the finishing processes involved in textile manufacturing.

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Basic methods and processes

The term includes all the mechanical and chemical processes employed commercially to improve the acceptability of the product, except those procedures directly concerned with colouring. The objective of the various finishing processes is to make fabric from the loom or knitting frame more acceptable to the consumer. Finishing processes include preparatory treatments used before additional treatment, such as bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, such as glazing, to enhance appearance; sizing, affecting touch; and treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Newly formed cloth is generally dirty, harsh, and unattractive, requiring considerable skill for conversion into a desirable product. Before treatment, the unfinished fabrics are referred to as gray goods, or sometimes, in the case of silks, as greige goods.

Finishing formerly involved a limited number of comparatively simple operations evolved over the years from hand methods. The skill of English and Scottish finishers was widely recognized, and much British cloth owed its high reputation to the expertise of the finisher. More sophisticated modern finishing methods have been achieved through intense and imaginative research.

Preparatory treatments

It is frequently necessary to carry out some preparatory treatment before the application of other finishing processes to the newly constructed fabric. Any remaining impurities must be removed, and additives used to facilitate the manufacturing process must also be removed. Bleaching may be required to increase whiteness or to prepare for colour application. Some of the most frequently used preparatory processes are discussed below.

Burling and mending

Newly made goods, which frequently show imperfections, are carefully inspected, and defects are usually repaired by hand operations. The first inspection of woollen and worsted fabrics is called perching. Burling, mainly applied to woollen, worsted, spun rayon, and cotton fabrics, is the process of removing any remaining foreign matter, such as burrs and, also, any loose threads, knots, and undesired slubs. Mending, frequently necessary for woollens and worsteds, eliminates such defects as holes or tears, broken yarns, and missed warp or weft yarns.

Scouring

When applied to gray goods, scouring removes substances that have adhered to the fibres during production of the yarn or fabric, such as dirt, oils, and any sizing or lint applied to warp yarns to facilitate weaving.

Bleaching, a process of whitening fabric by removal of natural colour, such as the tan of linen, is usually carried out by means of chemicals selected according to the chemical composition of the fibre. Chemical bleaching is usually accomplished by oxidation, destroying colour by the application of oxygen, or by reduction, removing colour by hydrogenation. Cotton and other cellulosic fibres are usually treated with heated alkaline hydrogen peroxide; wool and other animal fibres are subjected to such acidic reducing agents as gaseous sulfur dioxide or to such mildly alkaline oxidizing agents as hydrogen peroxide. Synthetic fibres, when they require bleaching, may be treated with either oxidizing or reducing agents, depending upon their chemical composition. Cottons are frequently scoured and bleached by a continuous system.

Mercerization is a process applied to cotton and sometimes to cotton blends to increase lustre (thus also enhancing appearance), to improve strength, and to improve their affinity for dyes. The process, which may be applied at the yarn or fabric stage, involves immersion under tension in a caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) solution, which is later neutralized in acid. The treatment produces permanent swelling of the fibre.

Water, used in various phases of textile processing, accumulates in fabrics, and the excess moisture must eventually be removed. Because evaporative heating is costly, the first stage of drying uses mechanical methods to remove as much moisture as possible. Such methods include the use of centrifuges and a continuous method employing vacuum suction rolls. Any remaining moisture is then removed by evaporation in heated dryers. Various types of dryers operate by conveying the relaxed fabric through the chamber while festooned in loops, using a frame to hold the selvages taut while the fabric travels through the chamber, and passing the fabric over a series of hot cylinders. Because overdrying may produce a harsh hand, temperature, humidity, and drying time require careful control.

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Textile - Textile - Textile finishing processes: The term finishing includes all the mechanical and chemical processes employed commercially to improve the acceptability of the product, except those procedures directly concerned with colouring. The objective of the various finishing processes is to make fabric from the loom or knitting frame more acceptable to the consumer.

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Neonmint is a key colour for SS20 transitioning from Millenial Pink

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Neonmint is a key colour for SS20 transitioning from Millenial Pink

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Colour inspiration- soft nudes and pastels

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Colour inspiration- soft nudes and pastels

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Work placement has taken priority, had to rework my work load. Time management needs improvement.

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Action Plan and Timetable

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Primarly looking to create a range for the top stores and online, potential for airport stores too. I will not be doing a space layout plan as the range is really small but I will do a planogram to show how it would look in store.

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Analysis of the move to an online retail market and the decline of stores. Also looks at how the middle price market is being squeezed out as consumers search for top bargains online or spend on expensive luxury items.

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A major driver for this has been the death of the middle market. A Deloitte report recently highlighted this by showing revenue growth rates of price-based, balanced, and premier retailers, and the results aren't pretty for the 'balanced' (mid-market) firms. It's not juts overall retail, consumers are no longer spending money in the middle market of fashion. This has been the hardest hit segment of the market, with companies like J. Crew struggling to stop comparable sales from continuing to plunge (-6.7% in 2016, -8.2% in 2015), and other mid-market retailers such as BCBG Max Azaria declaring bankruptcy.

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The Death of the Middle Market in Fashion

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A major driver for this has been the death of the middle market. A Deloitte report recently highlighted this by showing revenue growth rates of price-based, balanced, and premier retailers, and the results aren't pretty for the 'balanced' (mid-market) firms. It's not juts overall retail, consumers are no longer spending money in the middle market of fashion.

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Reiss' customer profile will be aimed at Millenials rather than Gen Z as it is a high end retailer and predominantly weathy, slightly older women either in professional careers or with families.

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Between them, Generation Z and millennials - broadly, shoppers in their late teens, twenties and thirties - attract endless attention, and represent fashion's consumers of both the present and future.
In this report, Drapers takes an in-depth look at how the two groups are changing, and how they feel about the fashion industry. What are the similarities between them, what are the differences, and where are the opportunities for brands designing and making clothes for these groups?

We also speak to a range of retailers about how they are creating propositions that appeal to these shoppers, and the feedback that they hear from them.

It is all too easy to become fixated on a certain age range, and younger shoppers are often the group of choice for retailers. They are, after all, the shoppers of the future, and brands that do not evolve alongside them are unlikely to survive long term. But while this report is aimed at delving into younger people's likes and dislikes, the aim is not to depict these shoppers as being more important than or even dramatically different to many of their older counterparts.

Many of the trends we observe in their changing behaviour are happening just as strongly for people over 40 as they are for those under. People's interests and tastes are rarely determined solely by their age, and Gen Z is no different.

But even with that in mind, it is interesting to watch a particular generation evolve, and determining what matters to them is still a worthwhile activity. Furthermore, much of the change we observe across all consumer groups is often driven by or more strongly represented among the young, whose strength of feeling about issues of the day can be greater than older generations.

One thing is clear, and that is the emergence of a more values-led, purpose-driven approach to fashion. Younger shoppers may not want to or are not yet able to pay more for ethically made items, but that doesn't mean they don't want them. In addition, the digital and multichannel shifts of the past two decades are not over yet. There is still plenty of work to do to meet those expectations.

Beyond the shifts in behaviour, it is heartening to see that younger shoppers are not disillusioned with fashion: most still see it as fun and inspiring, as well as a chance to express themselves, and they appreciate any brand attempting to keep up with them ethically. They appreciate even more those who are leading the way.

Having come of age during turbulent economic years and having never known life without the internet, they have little patience for rules and conventions that were designed for a different time. Gen Z and their older millennial brothers and sisters have the potential to make fashion an altogether better place to be: what brands need to do is exhibit a willingness to meet them there.

We hope you find the report useful. Please send any feedback or questions to rebecca.thomson@emap.com to help us continue improving our research into this group.

Rebecca Thomson, head of commercial content, Drapers

For the purposes of this report we define members of Generation Z as anyone born between 1995 and 2015, making the youngest four and the oldest 25. Millennials are those born between 1980 and 1995, and are roughly aged 26 to 38. We surveyed 2,000 consumers aged 18 to 38.

'Gen Z' has become just as much of a buzzword as 'millennial' did a few years ago, and is already synonymous with certain traits. If the headlines are to be believed, they are strident environmental activists, they are progressive, they are careful with money and they have short attention spans. But lumping such a broad, diverse group into one amorphous age bracket is a mistake.

Jonathan Reynolds, a retail and ecommerce expert at the University of Oxford says: "It's right to disaggregate Generation Z. We are wrong to use age definitions and put everyone into one age bracket. People have different contexts, motivations and there are different sub-groups within that demographic."

It is also easy to get swept away by the perceived newness of a fresh group of teenagers. But in many ways, Gen Z and millennials have similar patterns of behaviour to young people of previous generations.

To begin with, there is a larger, more mainstream group who watches what the Kardashians wear and is hooked on Love Island, and makes purchasing decisions that are driven by upcoming holidays and Saturday nights out. And there is also a much smaller, albeit articulate and vocal, more alternative group that is perhaps more progressive, and sometimes more controversial. This is best represented in 2019 by 16-year-old Swedish activist Greta Thunberg. Her emergence as a leader in this space is helped by the fact that anyone aged 25 or under is unlikely to remember the most significant events of the previous decade, such as 9/11 or the Iraq war. Terrorism was the defining issue as millennials entered adulthood ten years ago, but as this fades slightly in the collective memory, climate change is taking its place.

Reynolds says the activist group is the most interesting part of Gen Z, because they're exhibiting new kinds of behaviour. "They're not being influenced by big brands. They're very much a smaller subset of Generation Z but they're articulate and loud, so we hear a lot about them. And they probably have the brands more worried. If it grows, it's dangerous to brands because they often dont have the flexibility to shift."

What is different about Gen Z as a cohort, however, is they are the first group to have grown up with social media and related digital technologies, and this is creating new rules for how things get done. It has given them a new set of communication tools, which they are extremely adept at using, and which enables messages such as Greta's to spread faster and with more intensity than they might have a few years ago. The amplified impact and speed of change this has enabled means that Kylie Jenner is a billionaire by the age of 21, and global leaders are listening to Greta's every word.

In some ways, this is a re-labelling of trends that have gone before. What has changed, however, is access to information and virtual relationships.

Jonathan Reynolds, University of Oxford

Reynolds says any changes that do occur for this generation are tending to proliferate faster than they have in the past: "By and large, we have seen greater transparency for all those subsets than in previous generations because of technology and electronic word of mouth.

"In some ways, this is a re-labelling of trends that have gone before. What has changed, however, is access to information and virtual relationships."

But while Kylie Jenner and Greta Thunberg represent drastically divergent cultural trends, their followers are not necessarily different people. It is possible to be interested in celebrities while also being interested in sustainability; it is also possible to care about sustainability while engaging in unsustainable behaviours, partly because it is often simply not possible to make ethical consumption choices. Plus, younger shoppers do appear to want two very different things. "On the one hand, they're very idealistic," says Pamela Church-Gibson, the author of Fashion and Celebrity Culture. " But that is diametrically opposed to the fact we have got a lot of people who just want to buy cheap clothes online."

The other thing to note about Gen Z and Millennials is that they are growing in confidence. They are natural online communicators and their talent is being applied to topics other than sustainability - they are diverse, inclusive and they question norms. "What also strikes me about this group is its confidence," says Reynolds. "They're realistic, they're pragmatic and they engage in dialogue rather than protesting for the sake of it."

Contradictions

What is difficult, Reynolds says, is that some members of these generations want to shop with fully sustainable brands who are helping to change the status quo, but they also want immediacy and convenience in how they access any product. They want constant newness and immediate gratification, but they acknowledge the system that enables that is not environmentally feasible. "There is a contradiction - certain people are doing both things."

This means that, even as consumers lead this shift towards a more sustainable way of making and selling fashion, there may also need to be a concerted educational effort to ensure these young shoppers realise that this may mean some loss of convenience and increased effort from them; perhaps buying fewer, higher quality items per year may be necessary, and recycling clothes they are finished with is a must.

Reynolds says that for some, this is starting to translate into different ways of consuming. "My son, who is 23, is less concerned about ownership. The stuff he does have is very different and unusual - he places a premium on finding things that aren't very popular. That's a challenge for brands used to dealing with large chunks of the population."

Loyalty

While these trends play out, shoppers continue to interact day-to-day with the fashion industry. Hearteningly, our data shows that broadly, consumers appear to feel fairly positive about fashion. They report finding it fun and inspiring, and they see it as an opportunity for self expression.

Broadly, do you feel the fashion world is:

Despite having a reputation for lacking brand loyalty, this cohort doesn't necessarily think of itself as disloyal. They are, however, always on the lookout for new brands - possibly related to that desire for uniqueness. Over a third said they consider themselves loyal shoppers, and a half said they are 'relatively' loyal. Only 16% of shoppers said they rarely return to a brand.

Would you describe yourself as loyal to brands?

In the rest of this report we explore the shopping behaviours currently exhibited by Gen Z and millennials - as well as what they like and dislike about the propositions on offer.

Convenience scores highly for younger shoppers, who have high expectations surrounding it. More than half say the convenience of online shopping is its biggest appeal, and when asked what they would like to see more of, convenience-focused services are the most popular options.

Their biggest bugbears relating to online shopping are all delivery related: having to wait for a delivery, missing deliveries and paying for delivery or returns are the most annoying factors.

This area is a huge focus for the retailers we spoke to: see chapter 6, on convenience, for their comments on how they are developing their delivery and payment services.

What do you enjoy about online shopping?

What would you like to see more from brands online?

Improving fit technology is also a priority for this group, who seem clear on the benefits of sharing size data with retailers in return for better-fitting items and less returns administration.

But as Mike Branney, managing director of young fashion etailer Oh Polly, says, the technology has further to go: "Improving online fit technology is important but it's still quite gimmicky at the moment. When the systems move more towards virtual avatars with a combination of augmented reality, it will become a much more useful tool that people will actually choose to engage with."

What do you tend to find most annoying about online shopping?

Payment is another significant part of the process for these shoppers: 82% say it is either very or quite important. It has been an area of focus for retailers for years.

Nicola Thompson, global customer development director at Asos, says convenience and removing friction from the shopping experience is a priority: "That's why we offer 'buy now, pay later' through Klarna to give customers a chance to try product on without having to pay for it, and our premier delivery service that offers unlimited next-day delivery for just £9.99 a year.

"We're constantly following customer demand, bringing in new payment or delivery options as they become available, such as our same-day delivery proposition, Asos Instant in London, Leeds, Manchester and Birmingham."

How important is a quick checkout process to you when deciding if you will make a purchase or return to a retailer?

Comprehensive and descriptive product information is also important: 95% of people read product descriptions either every time or sometimes.

Do you read product descriptions when shopping online?

Most people read them for information on how an item fits - perhaps mining them for as much information as possible in the absence of advanced fit tech - but shoppers also look for information on the materials and methods used in manufacture.

Do you read the descriptions for:

Buying from overseas brands is also popular, despite the taxes and fees that can sometimes apply. Nearly 60% purchase from overseas brands either sometimes or often.

Do you ever get clothing, shoes or accessories shipped from overseas?

Simon Kinsey, commercial director at TranslateMedia, which helps retailers translate and adapt their brands for new markets, says this is the first generation of global online shoppers. "Gen Zs and millennials are happy to order from overseas brands and they expect the experience to be authentic, personal yet consistent. It is a tricky proposition for retailers to balance an online experience which takes different local cultures into account alongside the need for consistency relating to fit and delivery."

He adds that global content platforms are starting to become more flexible, which is helping to serve this global demand. "It's now possible for product descriptions to 'write themselves' using content asset data derived from product photography, fabric and washing instructions which means that copywriters can spend more time crafting their brand message to appeal to local trends for online shoppers."

For our shoppers, the main reasons behind the desire to buy overseas include cheaper product, and finding those unique items.

Why do you often shop for clothing, shoes or accessories internationally?

When it comes to store shopping, Generation Z and millennials like having the ability to try things on, the social aspect, and the ability to browse and get inspiration. This is consistent with other age groups.

Just as predictable are the elements of store shopping they do not like: crowds and sizes being out of stock.

What do you enjoy about shopping in store?

Retailers' store strategies are changing in response to this to focus more on the social and inspirational elements of store shopping.

Giorgina Waltier, sustainability manager at H&M UK and IE, says the retailer is "continually experimenting with new services" that go beyond the remit of traditional retail: "In many instances these new services tap into the development of our sustainability work and our ambition to become a circular business. For example, we recently launched a garment repair and embroidery service within selected H&M stores globally, to enable customers to increase the longevity of their clothes.

"We are also trialling the sale of eco-friendly washing detergents and microfibre-filter laundry bags - both of which are not products that we have traditionally sold but we see as important additions that meet changing customer needs."

She says H&M group is experimenting with the sale of vintage items at & Other Stories, and is also starting to work with advanced analytics to tackle over-production by creating more alignment between supply and demand. "This in turn will enable us to provide a more targeted, streamlined customer offer in our stores, freeing up more space to further test and experiment with new services."

Paul Forkan co-founded lifestyle brand Gandys with his brother Rob in 2012, and the brand has three stores in London. He says the brand's approach to store retailing has changed.

"In recent years the way we see our stores as part of our brand has definitely changed. Instead of being a main hub for sales they have become places where our community come to connect with our brand and the individuals that work in our shops."

He adds that people come in to not only get a feel for the product and fit, but to also get updates on the brand's charitable foundation, as well as advice and stories about travelling.

"With the current generation of young people spending less time on the high street, the challenge lies in creating this experience online," he says. "Technology will make this possible through chat rooms and live "digital try-ons" powered by web cams and artificial intelligence, but that is still a few years away from being opened up to the masses. For now, stores are still an essential part of the shopping experience, especially for those who care more for brands as a whole as opposed to just a single product."

What things do you not enjoy about shopping in store?

Potentially more concerning for some retailers is that 27% of respondents say they would stop going to stores altogether if the final issues with the online customer experience could be ironed out. A further 42% say they would be "quite likely" to abandon store shopping if all delivery was free and fast, and if they could envisage how an item would fit.

If all issues with online shopping could be erased, do you think you would cut out store shopping altogether?

However, this utopian ideal of online shopping is a way off yet - for now at least, stores provide a crucial way for consumers to meet their favourite brands in the physical world.

Environmental sustainability is important to these shoppers. More than three-quarters (76.7%) say it is either very or quite important. This is pretty consistent for every age range, although slightly more men rate it as very important (39.6%) than women (32.8%).

How important for you is it that a brand shows it is environmentally sustainable?

Equality in all its forms is just as important: 77.1% rate it as very or quite important. Only 9% say it is not important at all. All age groups are in agreement, but the 18-to-24-year-olds are particuarly focused on it: 82.7% say it is important to them and just under half say it is very important.

We wanted to know about all forms of equality, rather than only gender equality, because racism, and discrimination against LGBTQI and disabled people are just as important to many in this group. The efficacy of being vocal on these topics can be seen in the success of brands such as Levi's - a long-term supporter of LGBTQI equality - which has been driven by its ability to remain relevant to younger shoppers via its principles and its storytelling.

For you, how important is it that a brand shows it is pro-equality (across ethnicity, gender, sexuality or disability lines)

Nearly half of our respondents say they have at some point decided against a purchase because of a brand's lack of sustainability efforts. Retailers often report that customers do not appear to be willing to pay more for more ethically produced items, which makes it challenging to build a business case internally for investment in sustainable practices.

However, this suggests brands are losing sales to other, more sustainably driven retailers, which is a trend that will not be immediately visible in sales figures. The evidence was strongest among the 18-to-24-year-olds, of whom 55% say they had abandoned purchases. Men are also more likely to fail to complete purchases than women (54% versus 44%). There are also regional variations in how shoppers are approaching sustainability, with shoppers in the South East and London more likely to rate it as important. In London, 63% of shoppers reported having abandoned a purchase.

Have you ever abandoned a purchase because you felt that the brand didn't reflect your values on either sustainability or equality?

Nearly half of our respondents say they actively hunt out brands that are sustainable or vocal about equality. This supports the theory that demand for sustainable products and support for equality-focused brands may be invisible to some retailers at the moment, because rather than buying sustainable ranges from otherwise non-sustainable brands, shoppers are using their time and money to look for brands that align more comprehensively with their values.

While there may well be a gap between what people say they are doing, and what they are actually doing, this is nonetheless a trend to take seriously. The fact it is not always showing in sales figures yet could relate partly to the fact that shopping ethically and sustainably takes a significant amount of work and research on the part of the consumer. With comparatively few sustainable options available, it is also still hard for a customer to make sure their purchasing behaviour reflects their values - they may still be shopping unsustainably because choice is limited. Plus, retailers have an uphill battle when it comes to communicating their efforts. Few customers will know, for instance, that Primark's jeans are among the most sustainable available on the high street, and H&M is often accused of greenwashing, despite a 20 year effort to improve its sustainability credentials that significantly pre-dates the topic's current fashionable status. In addition, sustainability is not easy for retailers - it is a labyrinthine project that takes years to build expertise in, and is expensive to develop properly.

Simon Kinsey, commercial director at TranslateMedia, says customers' interest in equality can be seen in a current trend for product descriptions to be written in gender neutral language. "Demand for language neutrality is coming from international brands, often those in Benelux and Scandinavia specialising kids toys and accessories, adult sneakers and outdoor brands and, more recently, the skincare and beauty market. The trend for language neutrality is being closely tracked by brands in the UK and the US," he says.

Do you actively hunt for brands that are sustainable or vocal about furthering equality?

Shoppers' interest in sustainability is a trend that is backed up by search data. Over the last five years Google searches for the term "sustainable fashion" have been on a steady upward trend worldwide, with the biggest rises occuring in Australia, the UK, Hong Kong, Denmark and Singapore. Searches for the term "sustainable fashion brands" in the UK have rocketed by 450% since January 2016. Retailers such as US brands Everlane and Reformation are popular related terms, and both have experienced large rises in search volumes over a similar period.

However, while consumer interest in sustainable fashion is increasing, the retailers leading the way are not necessarily being driven by consumer demand.

Giorgina Waltier, sustainability manager at H&M UK and IE, says: "While it is truly brilliant that sustainability awareness has increased so significantly with consumers over the last couple of years, our commitment to and communication around sustainability is not consumer led.

"We started talking to our customers about sustainable materials back in 2011 when we launched our H&M Conscious line, about the importance of recycling clothes in 2013, when we launched our global in-store garment-recycling scheme, and about supply-chain transparency in 2013 when we were one of the first brands to publicly share our supplier list.

"So, communicating to customers about the importance of sustainability is not new for us. What is new is the increase in appetite for this information, and what we are still yet to master is a balance in the level and detail of information that we share with the consumer."

Generation Z and millennial shoppers are predictably high users of mobile and social channels, but it is interesting to see the extent of these habits. Just over 70% of respondents report shopping via mobile apps, and users return regularly to their favourite retail apps to check for new product and content.

Do you shop using mobile apps?

This tallies with the findings of our Connected Consumer report, published in late 2018. That found these shoppers are avid mobile users: 77% use their phones to browse fashion, and 68% use them to buy fashion. It also found that they like apps: nearly 80% have downloaded at least one retailer or brand app, while 23% have downloaded four or more.

Over 70% of our shoppers said that they have purchased via social - some of the brands we spoke to say they have seen this reflected in their sales figures.

James Gold, co-founder of accessories brand Skinnydip London, says: "We have noticed our social transactions increasing." He adds that it is something the brand is looking at in careful detail, using focus groups to determine the images, products and captions that are most effective.

"Skinnydip was born on social and it is where we engage with our customers on the most authentic level. We believe that Gen Z and millennial customers identify most with brands that share their values and are honest, so that's our main focus in providing genuine, engaging content."

He adds getting the mix right is important for different groups. Those in their thirties respond well to different posts from those in their twenties. However, some trends are more universal.

"We notice an increase in new customers on social especially around new collaboration launches, or when we produce IGTV [Instagram video] content."

Have you ever purchased from a brand by clicking through from a social post?

Asos has 23 million followers across its various social platforms, and is focusing on having engaging two-way conversations with them.

Global customer development director Nicola Thompson says: "We know that our twentysomething customers spend a lot of their time on their mobile phones and using social media, so that is where we need to be to having engaging, two-way conversations with them." The focus is on inspiring them on the channel, she adds.

The networks used by these shoppers are shifting quickly, but in late 2018, those aged 18 to 24 reported in our Connected Consumer report that 74% of them use Facebook and 70% use Instagram.

With missed deliveries or inconvenient services causing annoyance for younger online fashion shoppers (see chapter 1), focusing on convenience has become a significant priority for retailers.

James Gold, co-founder of accessories brand Skinnydip London, says it is an area the brand is constantly working on improving: "Within the last six months, we have launched Doodle returns options, collection point delivery and free collection from an selection our Skinnydip stores. For us, the delivery process is critical. When there are companies like Amazon as competitors, we know that we have to try to meet customers' expectations as best as we can."

He adds it also already offers a pay-later service with Klarna, and is looking at being able to "slice" payments, so shoppers can pay in instalments, in the coming months.

Jo Tutchener-Sharp, founder of Scamp & Dude, says the childrenswear brand is working on introducing free shipping: "We have been looking at how we can incorporate the fulfilment and shipping costs into the overheads so we can get rid of shipping costs for the customer, as I know this is an issue for some customers when large operators such as Amazon offer free shipping. But at the moment it's not viable to pay for the packing, fulfilment costs and shipping ourselves."

Other brands are looking even further into the future.

Mike Branney, managing director of Oh Polly says the young women's clothing brand is looking beyond buy now, pay later: "We offer 'buy now, pay later' on our site for UK customers, and plan to roll out the same service in the US and Australia in the next few months. We are also investigating accepting payments in electronic wallets and cryptocurrencies, although the latter is still not particularly mainstream."

Andrew Cooper, head of direct to consumer trading and operations at Pentland Brands, says: "We constantly review these two areas and have recently added more delivery options so consumers can order later in the day for next-day delivery. We have bespoke payment options for different regions, and we are actively looking at how we provide more payment choices."

In our survey, consumers report being keen on convenience-boosting services. Almost two-thirds say they add items to their baskets for pay day purchases, and 69% of respondents say they would be likely to bring purchases forward if they were able to defer payment.

How often do you add items to basket and then wait for payday to make the purchase?

How likely are you to bring a purchase forward if you could pause payment until payday?

How do you feel about making purchases using a deferred payment method?

However, reaction to the idea of another convenience-focused service, renting clothes, was more mixed. While nearly a third said they would like to rent clothes from their favourite brands, nearly half said they would not. One-fifth were undecided.

Oh Polly's Branney says the complexity of large-scale rental is off-putting: "Moving from a model that already sees return rates of 30% to 40% to a return rate of 100% would require a step change in process. The rental market is also better suited to outerwear and hard-wearing fabrics, as most materials lose their lustre and structure after a few washes."

While renting is a newer idea for some, a third of our shoppers still said it appeals. It is likely that for many brands, a rental service could be a part of their future. This is especially true for longer-wearing items, one-wear purchases such as wedding outfits, or items whose wearers grow out of them quickly, such as children's clothes. Rental also plays into consumers' desires for both convenience and sustainability.

Would you rent clothes if your favourite brands offered that service?

This is also an area of the market where innovation will continue to have an impact. The sharing and rental economy is evolving quickly - both in the UK, but also in markets including China, where some rental platforms include the option of peer-to-peer rental. In the UK, it is an area where further development is likely to take place and where consumer attitudes could evolve quickly.

The behaviour of millennials and GenZs has already had a huge influence on the retail market.

They are proficient in navigating multiple channels, comfortable engaging with brands on social media and accustomed to broadcasting opinions about their shopping experiences online.

Both groups share an appetite for cross-border shopping if it means that they can buy distinctive products that are not available locally, but are also concerned with the methods of manufacture and that they are ethically sourced and sustainable. Product fit is also of huge importance and they spend time reading product descriptions to check measurements and materials. They also tend to lack the brand loyalty displayed by previous generations which means that retailers are faced with increased competition both locally and from abroad and have to work harder than ever before to produce the high-quality product descriptions and editorial content they need to stand out from their competitors.

At TranslateMedia, we specialise in translation and the cultural adaptation of content for brands and retailers to ensure quality and brand tone-of-voice consistency.

TranslateMedia develops technology to seamlessly integrate with all of the major CMSs and eCommerce platforms - drastically reducing localisation turnaround times, increasing speed to market and boosting ROI from global marketing campaigns.
Simon Kinsey, Commercial Director, TranslateMedia

It's no secret that the younger generations hold the key to the future of retail.

In an era of instant gratification, same day delivery, and the ability to shop through social channels, younger consumers expect a completely different and totally tailored shopping experience, that brands need to fulfill.

Klarna's research into the future of fashion technology has shown over half (53%) of fashion shoppers aged 16-24 would be happy for a retailer to use their online data to offer tailored discounts or recommendations. While more than one in five (22%) would like to be able to leave a store and pay for items later once they've decided what to keep. It's a different world now to what retailers have been catering to over the last 20 years.

But while retailers need to ensure they truly understand the demands of younger tech-driven shoppers, this approach can't be limited to those in a certain age bracket. We know that experience is the lifeblood of the retail economy, so offering the best experience whether through flexible payments, or a smooth returns process, solely to those in a certain age bracket would be an error.

Experience really is the new loyalty, and a truly tailored experience from perusal to payment needs to be embedded into a retailer's shopping cycle, for all consumers young and old.
Luke Griffiths, General Manager of Klarna UK

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Between them, Generation Z and millennials - broadly, shoppers in their late teens, twenties and thirties - attract endless attention, and represent fashion's consumers of both the present and future. In this report, Drapers takes an in-depth look at how the two groups are changing, and how they feel about the fashion industry.

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Retail Measures of success- Online VS Store

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Retail Measures of success- Online VS Store

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Inspirational brand.
Having looked on their website I found it very basic and contained little information regarding fabric composition. Theres also no information about the brands story/history or sourcing information on the website. Not very transparent. 16 nightwear options. mostly silk robes/slips. Price points of £100+.
Sizing 32B-36DD

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Luxury Pyjamas, Chemises and Robes. Spacious floor plan. Only 3 max items on display.

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Myla Collection.- inspirational.
Displayed in spacious cases on one wall and on racks on shorter walls in the main space.
Small collections of lingerie and slips/sleepwear.
Made from silk satins and lace fabrics.
Predominantly made in China.
Price points -£75-125 Bra, £35-65 briefs

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Ted baker collection in Oxford street store. Had large Ted Baker range available. Displayed on rails with lingerie sets placed vertically in columns of 2 sets

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26-35
Affluent Urban renters
High disposable income
Spend a lot on their appearance.
Love premium Brands

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36-45,  Sub-urban housewives with children.
Home- owners.
High Disposable income
Buy premium brands, high interest in fashion.

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Ted Baker slip top, 95% Viscose, 5% Elastane

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Ted Baker slip top, 95% Viscose, 5% Elastane

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Made in Bangladesh.

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Large range of sets online.
Seductive comfort range features soft fabrics  with lace trim for everyday wear. Sizes range from 30B- 38D.
Predominantly Sports/comfort ranges in micro fibre jersey, modal elastane, cotton and nylon.

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Spacious floor plan, 3 items to a rail.
Accessories displayed on tables. Small swimwear collection by fitting room, on cross rail.
Do Not Stock Lingerie In Store. Only available online or in Debenhams.

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Having looked round the store I was unable to find any lounge wear. The layout is spacious and there is a large amount on offer. Approx 6 options on rail. a mix of rails and shelving for accessories.

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A mix of fashion, soft comfort and sport bras. A large range of colours. Displayed in sets 2 rows deep. 8 items to a rail. COO China or Thailand.

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Far more spacious floor plan to the Regent street shop. More rails and shelving available. There is an area near to the fitting rooms where lingerie and sleepwear could be displayed. It is currently displaying Sale items. Most of the items I looked at where made in China which surprised me.

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Store layout is fairly compact. Small Space around staircase. Options hung on rails, maximum 6.

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Reiss Swimwear hung on cross rail, maximum 6 items. Small selection. Other accessories are laid on the table or displayed on shelving above rails.

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Reiss Swimwear hung on cross rail, maximum 6 items. Small selection. Other accessories are laid on the table or displayed on shelving above rails.

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Dresses hung 4 items at a time on wooden hangers.

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Statistic on the lingerie market, Uk and US.

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Statistic on the lingerie market, Uk and US.

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NewFemme and Comfort are key trends. Rise in soft stretch fabrics and comfy styles.

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Bold nature design

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Jungle Parrots Silk Satin Slip - Intimissimi

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Jungle Parrots Silk Satin Slip for sale on Official Intimissimi online shop. Discover all the latest products and buy them on the Intimissimi online shop.

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Compshop report on Global Data from Freeport, Braintree.

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Compshop report on Global Data from Freeport, Braintree.

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Colourful Loungewear and sleepwear with basic underwear options. Range of price points from £10-£100

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Shop Anthropologie's curated collection of sleepwear and loungewear, brimming with new arrivals & timeless classics.

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Affluent Professional-
Live in outer areas of cities or in towns. High disposable income.
Well- educated,  work in  professional or managerial roles.
Between 25-49

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CACI's Acorn is a powerful consumer classification that segments the UK population. By analysing demographic data, social factors, population and consumer behaviour, it provides information and understanding of different types of people.

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Townhouse cosmopolitans-
25-34, high disposable income. live in urban areas in flats or terraced housing, renting.
Spend a lot of time online. Buy frequently online and have many apps for travel, shops and games.

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CACI’s Acorn is a powerful consumer classification that segments the UK population. By analysing demographic data, social factors, population and consumer behaviour, it provides information and understanding of different types of people.

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Looking at styles and pricing to compare.

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Shop The Collection Of Luxury Full, Demi, Quarter & Soft Cup Bras By Agent Provocateur. Punchy Colours & Designer Cut-Outs In Intricate Lace & Sumptuous Satin.

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Very Small range of bra's only.
No lounge wear
Triangle style bras.
Affordable -£12-20

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Lingerie | Women's Underwear & Bodysuits | French Connection

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Discover the latest range of chic women's underwear and lingerie from French Connection, including modal or lace bodysuits and bralettes to match. Shop now.

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Lingerie and Sleepwear Collection. A cohesive range of silky pyjama and robes. Mainly synthetic fabrics.
Affordable price points. Some on sale.

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Luxury Lingerie & Nightwear | Designer Underwear | Ted Baker UK

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Discover luxury lingerie and nightwear in the B by Ted Baker collection, an ultra-feminine range which brings secret opulence to every outfit.

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Online selection-  B by Ted Baker Serentity range. Bigger selection on the debenhams website than on Ted Bakers. The Serentity range has 11 options featuring short sets,  chemise, and robe. Viscose and elastane mix, polyester . Other brands featured include Calvin Klein, DKNY, Reger by Janet Reger, Tommy Hilfiger and Savannah Miller.

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B by Ted Baker Serenity at Debenhams.com

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sleepwear

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Online- Selection of lounge and sleepwear in cottons and soft knits.
Luxurious comfort over fashion. High End price points

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Luxury Nightwear | Pyjamas & Robes | The White Company

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Free UK delivery over £50. Discover luxury nightwear from The White Company UK, from cashmere cotton robes & slippers to light or warm pyjamas for women.

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Looking at their current offer and researching the brand.

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Dreaming of your next getaway? Get vacation-ready with our collection of women's sale swimwear. Discover the full range in our women's swimwear sale.

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Small range of lingerie and sleepwear in classic prints.

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Explore the new B by Ted Baker lingerie and nightwear collection. Featuring sumptuously soft fabrics and blooming with fine florals, it's what dreams are made of.

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Textile artists using a variety of hand dying and screen printing techniques to create soft prints.

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EXPERIMENTING

The first stages of making - gathering inspiration, sketching, painting - are often lost in the development of today's commercial products. Our process always starts here.

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EXPERIMENTING The first stages of making - gathering inspiration, sketching, painting - are often lost in the development of today's commercial products. Our process always starts here.

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Textile artists

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The consumer benefits of LYCRA® fiber are most evident in close to the body applications. It has brought new levels of fit, comfort and freedom of movement to a wide range of lingerie and bodywear products.

Fabrics can be finer and more delicate. Bras and panties retain their flattering fit. Brighter whites, deeper blacks and richer colours keep their fresh, first day appearance through repeated wash and wear cycles. Built-in moisture management capabilities ensure all-day wearer comfort.

LYCRA® technology platforms feed the imagination and creativity of leading fabric mills and garment manufacturers. Subtle combinations of styling innovation and practical value help them maintain a competitive edge in sector where choice is strongly influenced by personal experience and satisfaction.

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Lingerie With LYCRA | Lingerie | connect.lycra.com

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The consumer benefits of LYCRA® fiber are most evident in close to the body applications. It has brought new levels of fit, comfort and freedom of movement to a wide range of lingerie and bodywear products. Fabrics can be finer and more delicate. Bras and panties retain their flattering fit.