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(Image courtesy of Tom's Filaween review of our Orange PETG at toms3d.org)
In this guide you'll learn why PET-G filament is fast becoming a favorite. We'll explain what it is and what's it's used for.

Then we'll cover the best practices to printing with it perfectly, including how to avoid any pitfalls when using it.

Is PLA or ABS not cutting it anymore? Perhaps you need something more durable, or something that can handle higher temperatures than PLA, but is easier to print than ABS?

PETG filament might be your next favorite to print with, we know it's been rapidly gaining in popularity since it was launched. Let's take a look at what is PETG, why you'd use it and how to print with it.

PETG is a durable copolyester (a combination). The PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate (think plastic bottles) and the G means it's been glycol modified for extra durability.

And what is PETG Filament used for?

In short this is a really tough material, it's extremely durable and prints without odour. Once you've dialed in the correct print settings, it prints nicely too. Users report similar finish quality to PLA.

Here are the main benefits to printing with this material and common PETG filament properties:

Very durable, it's more flexible than PLA or ABS, but also a little softer. You'd have a hard job breaking it in half, so if an 'unbreakable' case or enclosure is what you need, PETG trumps pretty much everything (except, Nylon 12).

It has very low shrinkage, and therefore no warping. Ideal for printing big stuff.

PETG is also very strong, it's not brittle but can be scratched more easily than ABS which is harder.

PETG plastic makes a terrible support structure, because it sticks so well. But because it sticks so well, layer adhesion is fantastic, so prints come out strong.

It sticks well to the print bed too, so be careful when you're removing it after printing.

It has a great chemical resistance, along with alkali, acid and water resistance.

Odourless when printing.

Typically Polyethylene filament is supplied in a range of translucent colours, and prints with a nice glossy finish.

It makes it ideal for printing anything that needs to be shatterproof or translucent. Many are taking the leap from using PLA or ABS to just using PETG.

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It's unlikely you'd use standard PET filament when the more durable glycol modified version is now widely available.

In Tom's petg filament review, he reported the weighted strength test of our PETG to be 'off the scale', meaning in the direction of the layers, he couldn't break it. This isn't to brag (honest!) but should hopefully indicate the high durability of the material.

But what does this mean for practical applications? What objects are ideal for you to be printing with PETG?

Well, while we don't recommend printing everything with it, due to it's flexibility (which isn't always desirable, depending on your application) there are instances where you need a print with great flex, but where printing in a fully flexible material (like TPU, Flexi PLA, or Nylon) wouldn't provide enough support.

This makes it ideal for 'real world' applications and end-use parts.

What's PETG Glass Transition Temperature?

It's 80C - so that's worth taking into consideration when deciding what material to make your next project out of. This is significantly lower than ABS's Tg of 105C, but higher than PLA which is as low as 55C.

Below is one of our customer's applications, which is a bumper for his micro quadcopter. As you can imagine, the bumped needs reasonable stiffness to resist impacts, but yet plenty of durability to absorb the force of any severer crashes.

We think, this is a perfect example of the types of prints you may wish to print with this material. Essentially, it's a great addition to your existing 3D printing filament arsenal.
Great example of the practical use for PETG's durability. Crash bumper by Otto.
Here are a few data stats about PETG. Please note, these stats are from our own PETG and are not representative of the average:

Density of 1.27g/cc, that's just higher than PLA and about 20% more dense than ABS.

Rockwell hardness of R 106, which is pretty high for PETG. (Our ABS, which is very hard is rated R 110).

Our raw pellets for PETG have been GREENGUARD INDOOR AIR QUALITY CERTIFIED®. This is a certification under license from the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute (GEI), who are an independent, non-profit organisation that test low-emitting products and materials for indoor environments.

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Now you know why you're likely to go for PET-G filament, vs the more traditional materials. It's nice to print with and produces excellently tough prints that will last.

Let's look at how to get the best results from this underutilized filament, so that you can spend the least amount of time setting up, and the more time producing ultra-durable high use prototypes, models or end-use parts.
(another screenshot from Tom's epic 90 second PETG review)
Here's how to print PETG:

As with all 3d printing materials, you need to take note of the specific traits that material adheres to - which issues are caused by what?

This always saves head-scratching time when you run a material through your printer the first time, and the results aren't quite what you expected.

This plastic is just like any other, you just need to adhere to the few best practices when printing and you'll love the results.

Sometimes PET-G can take a little more setting up, fine tuning those filament settings. It's just slightly more particular than something more forgiving, like PLA. That's not to say it's hard to use, just perhaps a little more patience with the setup.

But once you're set up correctly, you'll find printing with PETG a dream. No warp, odorless printing and great layer adhesion are just some of the excellent properties with printing this filament.

Be sure to use a high quality polyethylene filament and it's likely you'll just dial in your PETG temperature settings and you'll be away.

However, as with any filaments there are some pointers to make the new transition easier.

Let's look at how to get setup correctly, issues to look out for and our top PETG printing tips that'll save you time troubleshooting.

PETG Print Settings

1. We recommend printing our PETG settings at roughly 220C-245C depending on your extruder. The PETG bed temperature works best around 70-75C, a few degrees hotter perhaps for those first few layers.

2. What's the best surface to print PETG on? Well in our experience, blue painter's tape works the best. PETG bed adhesion can work great with other materials though, providing you follow the next (very important) step.

3. This material doesn't need to be squeezed onto your heated bed, you want to leave a slightly larger gap on the Z axis to allow more room for the plastic to lay down. If the extruder nozzle is too close to the bed, or previous layer it will skim and create stringing and build-up around your nozzle. We recommend starting off moving your nozzle away from the bed in 0.02mm increments, until there is no skimming when printing.

4. The Fan: essentially if you want the strongest possible print, print with no fan. The higher PETG filament temperature will aid super-strong layer adhesion. The molten PETG will stick to the previous layer ridiculously well. But if you need better detail, and no stringing, you really need to use 100% PETG cooling fan. The rapid cooling after leaving the nozzle will leave your prints detailed, with no stringing or blobbing.

We recommend printing without fan for the first layer or two, and then full fan after that. If you're still getting trouble with slight stringing and you're feeling brave, taking the guard off your fan can increase airflow further - but that's your choice.
﻿These are some of Joseph Casha of 3D Maker Noob's prints in our Red PETG
This is the sort of thing you may choose different fan settings for different prints - so that you're set up optimally for what you wanted to print. Experiment to get a good idea for how the filament reacts with your printer's fan settings.

1. Print a little slower, we recommend around 55mm/sec or less, more than 60 and it won't lie fast enough.

2. PETG can be sensitive to over extrusion (blobbing etc.) - if you're experience this, just bring in the extrusion setting on the splicer ever-so-slightly each time until it stops.

It's likely you won't have issues with all of these points, but as you can see - just like other 3d printing filaments, each material has its own set of traits to setup for.

Once you know the cause of each issue, and how to fix you'll find the printing consistent time and time over.

Here's a quick rundown of PETG vs ABS:

PETG is more durable than ABS, but ABS is harder, and more rigid.

PETG has a lower glass transition temperature, at 80C compared with ABS's 105C

ABS is approximately 20% less dense than PETG.

PETG won't warp like ABS might (if printed incorrectly) and is generally odourless.

PETG is more chemically resistant, and so cannot be acetone smoothed like ABS.

Here's a quick rundown of PETG vs PLA:

PLA is more brittle than PETG, unless you want to try to anneal it.

PLA and PETG have very similar densities.

PETG will need a heated bed, whereas PLA can be printed cold.

Layer adhesion with PETG is typically unmatched, leaving very strong and durable prints.

PLA prints supports easily to remove, whereas these are harder (but not impossible) to remove with PETG.

We stock PETG in a range of colours & we won't force you to order a full 1KG just to test it.
Still not sure if PETG filament is for you? Try ordering a sample from your favourite supplier. We also sell our PETG in samples, as well as great value 1KG spools. Click here to see the range.

We also stock PETG 2.85mm Filament - if you're looking for that, too.

Cheap filament can be a false economy. All rigid.ink filaments are guaranteed for 60-days - we believe you should only need to print once.

Want to watch Tom's review of our filament? Check it out below to see why rigid.ink is one of his favorites.

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PETG Filament - Overview, Step-by-Step Settings & Problems Resolved

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(Image courtesy of Tom's Filaween review of our Orange PETG at toms3d.org) In this guide you'll learn why PET-G filament is fast becoming a favorite. We'll explain what it is and what's it's used for. Then we'll cover the best practices to printing with it perfectly, including how to avoid any pitfalls when using it.

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Good for heat. Not brittle.

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Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG

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Thanks for contributing an answer to 3D Printing Stack Exchange! Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research! Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers. Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience. Use MathJax to format equations.

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LW1075 Birch pole sculpture with ghostwood branches-painted shades of blue, white wooden spike objects, white lava rock pieces suspended on silver cable wire, whitewashed wood vine intertwined. FD: 9.5'H X 8.5

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LW1075 Birch pole sculpture with ghostwood branches-painted shades of blue, white wooden spike objects, white lava rock pieces suspended on silver cable wire, whitewashed wood vine intertwined. FD: 9.5'H X 8.5"W

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color scheme maybe

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Mid Mod Wall Art | Wood Wall Art | Wood Wall Sculpture | Large Wall Art | 3D Wall Sculpture | Mid Century Modern Art | Contemporary Art | Geometric Art | Wood Wall Decor | Original Art

'GOOD VIBES'

Part of the 'Structure' Sculpture Series: Architectural, Contemporary, Multi-Dimensional, Sophisticated

*AS HIGHLIGHTED ON HGTV

DETAILS:

*Made to order modern wall sculpture
*Wood pieces of different sizes and depths, assembled as one piece
*Painted in a mix of colors with some natural wood pieces
*Display listed is approx 12 ft x 5 ft (message me for your custom size)
*Glazed in high-gloss lacquer for a tremendous finish
*Comes ready to hang and enjoy
*Available in any custom size and/or color scheme

PROCESS:

This is part of a series of modern structural wall sculptures made of individual pieces of hand cut and painted wood. I try whenever possible to used recycled wood in my pieces. I love being able to give a revived new life to something once forgotten.

I love working with the lines and composition of the wood. It's my favorite medium and the simplicity of the geometric representation can make a stunningly modern statement for your home or office wall!

INSTALLATION:

Installation guide with instructions included. The 'Structure' Series comes pre-assembled and is very simple to hang. You'll be enjoying your truly original artwork in no time!

*Since this original artwork is created by hand and and made-to-order, no two are exactly alike (that's what makes it special!) but yours will be very similar to the examples shown and just as beautiful. The ultimate product is unique and truly one-of-a-kind, made just for you!

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ABOUT THE ARTIST:

Rosemary Pierce, named one of HGTV's Favorite Creative Geniuses 2017

"to encourage the mind to be curious,
intrigued, uplifted, inspired...
bringing shape and color alive
in a way that boosts the spirit...
t h a t i s m y d a i l y p a s s i o n ."
- rosemary pierce

Rosemary Pierce is an internationally collected modern artist.

Her original works are in public spaces, hotels, lobbies,
hospitals, healthcare facilities, restaurants, corporate buildings,
cruise ships, educational institutions, and private residences
all around the world.

Her passion is to inspire and share joy through uplifting WOW
one of a kind sculptural art statements.

Truly original, her art is hand made with love and care in our
studio & happily shipped and installed all over the world.

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Your business is important to me! This is my full-time, professional career and business and everyday I work on projects for people and spaces all over the world. You can buy with confidence: Tons of very happy, satisfied buyers have ordered from my online sites. I sell almost all of my art online and appreciate the faith so many clients have put in me to order and come back again and again. My art is very personal and every piece is conceptualized and handmade with care for original works of truly unique art.

I know making an original art order online is a bit of a leap of faith, it is a confidence and a trust put in me that I take very seriously to heart ---I look forward to making something very special for YOU!

If you have any questions, feel free to email me.

CUSTOM ORDERS:

All listings are made-to-order. I also do A LOT of CUSTOM ORDERS for both residential and larger-scale, commercial display. Need a different size? Different Colors? Specific requests? No problem. Or do you have an idea for something that you're not seeing here? I also often work with provided inspiration or ideas and run with them to make something completely new and original! I can work with you to create a custom work of art that is right for your specific space needs.

Send me a message/email to learn more. Every day I work on projects for people and spaces all over the world and I look forward to working with YOU!

To see more examples of past work/commissions, visit the portfolio at: http://www.rosemarypiercemodernart.com/modern-artwork-portfolio/

TRADE PROFESSIONALS & CORPORATIONS:

Contact us about your custom projects! We work with designers, consultants and corporations everyday on medium to very large scale, site-specific installations and will always stretch your client budget for the maximum WOW possible! Email Rosemary [!at] artbyrosemary.com

SHIPPING:

I do ship internationally! If your location is not listed please just contact me so I can create the shipping profile for you.

Please note we now include domestic shipping in this item's price. International shipping may require additional cost.

I try to get art out as quickly as possible. Processing time for made-to-order artworks depends on the detail and potential drying time variations for materials involved. You will be updated throughout the process.

INSTALLATION:

Personal, on-site installation by artist is available.

Please check the specific listing for more details on installation method. Either instructions for easy installation or when needed, a life-size template with instructions will be included for quick and easy self-installation. Life-size templates: you can simply tape the template to the wall and mark where each piece goes. Each piece is marked with a corresponding number as identified in location on the template. It's a simple nail and mounting tape installation and the template allows it to be exact to the layout I design without any fuss. You'll have your original, made-to-order artwork up to enjoy in no time.

ADDITIONAL INFO:

Everything (unless otherwise noted) is made to order. I try to get art out as quickly as possible -- Exact processing time depends on the size, detail and potential drying time variations for materials involved. I will keep you updated on the status of your original artwork. If you have a specific date you need your artwork by, please let us know.

All of my pricing is wholesale. Whether you are a designer with a client project, a commercial designer with a large scale installation project, an art consultant or a private collector... I am delighted to offer you my very best pricing; keeping my artwork affordable and yet still very original and one-of-a-kind.

SHARE THE LOVE:

I love hearing back from my customers! Please contact me after you receive your art and let me know you love it! I also really enjoy receiving photos of your artwork displayed in your home or office. And please, if you have something positive to say - share it! You can do this by leaving a review for my online shop and by sharing my website with a friend or co-worker. Word of mouth is the lifeline of my business and how I support my family. Thank you!

GET SOCIAL:

Follow along to see my latest projects, behind the scenes in the studio and installations:

Instagram: @ RosemaryPierceModernArt
https://www.Instagram.com/RosemaryPierceModernArt

Facebook: @ Rosemary Pierce Modern Artist
https://www.facebook.com/RosemaryPierceModernArtist

Thanks!

Rosemary Pierce

rosemary pierce modern art

www.RosemaryPierceModernArt.com

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Mid Mod Wall Art | Wood Wall Art | Wood Wall Sculpture | Large Wall Art | 3D Wall Art | Mid Century Modern Art | Contemporary Art Soundwave

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Mid Mod Wall Art | Wood Wall Art | Wood Wall Sculpture | Large Wall Art | 3D Wall Sculpture | Mid Century Modern Art | Contemporary Art | Geometric Art | Wood Wall Decor | Original Art GOOD VIBES Part of the Structure Sculpture Series: Architectural, Contemporary, Multi-Dimensional, Sophisticated

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Hitoshi Kuriyama works questioning himself and looking at conflicting concepts such as "Existance vs Non-Existance" or "Creation vs Destruction" to demonstrate from a scientific perspective that they are equivalent. He has theorized the hypothesis "0=1" and attempted to prove it. In his works he uses common electrical components: fluorescent lights, fuses and LEDs become alive forces.

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Eugenia Place Suspended Lobby Sculpture by Propellor Studio at English Bay

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Three years ago Aaron Mackenzie-Moore Design asked us to collaborate on the creation of a sculpture to hang in the lobby of a building that they were re-designing. Eugenia Place, located in the heart of English Bay, is one of the most iconic buildings in Vancouver's West End.

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I love LED pixels: bright, easy to control, cheap, and so versatile. My last project was an Ambilight TV backlight, but generally I'm just in love with intelligent lighting. Today, we'll be turning them into a big pixel display that can be hung on the wall of your office; either to serve a useful purpose, or just look incredibly pretty.

This is a relatively simple project that just takes time to construct, but can be a little fiddly when connecting the strands of LEDs. The basic idea is laying down strips of LED pixels in snake pattern on the back of the photo frame. The front will be frosted to help diffuse the light.

From there, it's mostly a question of which software to use, depending on your needs - I'll get you started with some demo code and pointers, then revisit the software angle in a later article as we figure out how to pull information like notifications and stock prices onto the display.

Step 0: You Will Need

10-meter strip (sold in two 5-meter reels) of LED pixels - I've used WS2812B because they're cheap. You can buy double density strips at 60 LEDs/meter too, if you'd like a higher resolution.

5V 10A power supply. The model I used takes 240V AC input to some screw terminals. If you need complete safety, purchase an enclosed model.

Arduino UNO.

Numerous lengths of thick wire; I used the offcuts from an old computer PSU.

Ikea RIBBA deep photo frame, 50cm x 50cm.

Glass frosting spray and white paint.

The total cost should be under $100. In terms of tools, you'll also need:

Soldering iron and solder

Hot glue gun

Knife or scissors

Wire stripper

Be sure to read through our Electronics Skills for Beginners guide first!

Step 1: Do the Math

If you've purchased the same 50cm x 50cm Ikea photo frame and LED strands as me, you should be able to fit 15 strands of 15 LEDs. However, there's nothing to stop you using a different sized frame. Each LED is spaced about an inch apart, so I was aiming for roughly inch squared pixels on the display - yes, that's 1 DPI. Not exactly Retina graphics.

Do the math, and draw some guide lines on the frame backing. Measure twice, and double check: I must have left a small difference between lines, because by the time it came to sticking everything down, I realised I could only fit 14 strands of 15 LEDs. No matter, the software is easy to adjust for a different number of pixels with varying row lengths and number of rows. Go ahead and cut your LEDs into appropriate lengths. Unfortunately, I found 15 pixels per strand coincided exactly with the soldered joints on one of my reels, so I was forced to de-solder them. On the plus side, at least these were then pre-soldered.

Step 2: Frost the Glass

To help diffuse the light from the LEDs, I decided to use some basic glass frosting spray on both sides. Do this outdoors as the fumes are dangerous, and try to spray as evenly as possible. The frosting is surprisingly hard wearing once it's dried, but you need to ensure an even coating first, and avoid scratches at all costs.

While you're outside, spray the back of the photo frame white too - this will reflect the light of the LED back out. We won't be using the white cardboard photo surround. Cut off one of the corners for the power and signal wires.

Step 3:Attach LEDs to the Board

Use a strong adhesive or superglue. I tried with double-sided tape, only to find it slipped off a few weeks later; the hot glue gun is even worse for this when both sides are non-porous. The exact positioning shouldn't matter too much if you've purchased strands enclosed in a rubber case - they can move freely within that for repositioning.

Remember that the signal will snake around from the start to finish, and that there is a specific direction to each strand. Lay one with the arrow pointing right, then the following strand going to the left, and repeat. Double check this before gluing them down!

Step 4: Soldering

Connecting each strand will require 3 lengths of wire of slightly different lengths. In each case, you'll be connecting the inner two pads with the shortest length of wire; then the middle two; then the outer two with the longest length. The inner pad will alternate between the +5V line, and the GND line, depending on which side of the frame you're currently working on.

Make sure both the pads and the wire are pre-soldered. This is the most time consuming part of the project, but it's crucial you don't rush and double check you're connecting the correct lines!

Step 5: Secure all Strands

Finally, if you've used the power and input wires that came attached to your strand, you may find that constantly moving around the board has pulled the first strand free. I decided to drill two small holes and thread through a white cable tie to secure this part. If you're having trouble sourcing strong glue, you might want to consider this for securing all the strands at both ends.

Step 6 Wiring Test

The wiring is simple: pin 6 on the Arduino is used as the signal pin to control the LEDs; while the 5V power into the LEDs should come directly from your external power supply. Connect a common ground wire between the strand, your Arduino, and the power supply. Do not attempt to power the strand directly from your Arduino, or to connect the 5V power supply directly to the Arduino when USB is connected (as it will be to upload the test code).

Download and add the Adafruit NeoPixel library to your Arduino libraries folder, then launch the Arduino. Perform an initial strand test using the example strandtest code included in the library. Adjust the number of LEDs you have in the first parameter of the following line (change 60 to however many):

Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(60, PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

If the animation stops at a particular row, unplug it immediately and check the wiring. You've either got the strand in the wrong direction; the wires are crossed; or you accidentally soldered the +5V to the GND.

Step 7: Place into the Frame

Since I'm using a deeper recess than the frame was designed to allow, I first used the hot glue gun to seal the glass to the frame. I've then added some short pieces of rubber packaging around the outer edge of the frame to create the required depth, before placing the LEDs back. After a final test of the LEDs, I used the hot glue gun again to seal everything into place.

You may also want to cut a small notch in the corner of the frame to accommodate the thick cable.

That's it in terms of constructing the actual display, though you'll probably want to hide the power supply and Arduino in a project box eventually. The rest is down to software.

Glediator

For parties or use in a professional club setting, Glediator from SolderLab.de is the king of LED matrix control, capable of driving up to 512 WS2812/NeoPixels at 24 frames per second. It allows you to create live or pre-recorded mixes of LED animations, and can even add GIFs (yes, I'm looking at you Nyan Cat); and just like DJ software, includes a fader to smoothly mix between animations.

To get started with Glediator, load this firmware onto your Arduino UNO, and ensure the signal cable is on pin 6. Don't forget to adjust the variable that says how many LEDs you have.

Within Glediator running, open the options and change the matrix size and output. Adjust Pixel Order if your layout is different, but unfortunately there's very little documentation for this step, so it's mostly trial and error. If your output doesn't match up with what's being shown on screen, try a different setting. HS_BL worked for me, which I suspect means " horizontal snake, starting bottom l eft".

Glediator is a pro-level app, so while I may cover it in future, for now I'll leave you to explore the interface and play around. Try loading a different animation on the left and right side, then sliding the fader between the two; or you'll find a ready-made playlist of sequences on the far right, which is shown in the demo video above.

Adafruit NeoMatrix and GFX Library

Adafruit has produced a stunningly useful library for working with these kind of pixel matrices. The first is called the Adafruit GFX library, originally designed for working with TFT and LCD displays; the NeoMatrix library is a modification to this which makes all the functions work with NeoPixel LED matrices. With your matrix defined, this opens up a huge range of simple-to-use functions such as outputting text or display a bitmap sprite graphic.

If you've made the project exactly as I did, you'll find this sample code helpful. The most important part of the code is here:

#define XSIZE 15 #define YSIZE 14 #define PIN 6 Adafruit_NeoMatrix matrix = Adafruit_NeoMatrix(XSIZE, YSIZE, PIN, NEO_MATRIX_BOTTOM + NEO_MATRIX_LEFT + NEO_MATRIX_ROWS + NEO_MATRIX_ZIGZAG, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

The first few few lines should be self-explanatory. The bottom three tell the graphics library about the layout - in this case, my first pixel is located in the bottom left, and it's arranged in rows, with the rows following a zigzag pattern. Check the library documentation if you've oriented it in a different way.

I've defined a few sprites in the code already (though only the smiley face is used). To create your own sprites, you'll find an Img2Code Java application within the GFX library download.

In a future article, we'll look at using the library to display useful information such as stock quotes or Twitter streams, but for now you should be able to play around with my sample code and load your own images.

That's all for the tutorial this time. You've made a giant LED display, now it's just a case of figuring out what to do with it. Consider making a mini lightning cloud lamp with the leftover LEDs. Questions or problems? Ask in the the comments - it's a fairly complex project but I'll do my best to help.
Explore more about: LED Strip.

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Weekend Project: Build a Giant LED Pixel Display

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I love LED pixels: bright, easy to control, cheap, and so versatile. My last project was an Ambilight TV backlight, but generally I'm just in love with intelligent lighting. Today, we'll be turning them into a big pixel display that can be hung on the wall of your office; either to serve a useful purpose, or just look incredibly pretty.

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I'm a sculptor specializing in mobiles and suspended kinetic art installations. I design, build and install custom mobiles from small to large scale.
[Custom made mobile for the Butterfield House - not shown on location here]
A good example of my previous work are the large custom mobiles I made for the Twinkle by Wenlan New York Fashion Week show at Bryant Park, where I had only twenty minutes between shows to bring in five large mobiles, unpack them, assemble them, install them, and everything had to pass with the insurance inspector. The mobiles had to have a strong visual impact while not interfering with the models, the audience or the structure holding all the lights above the runway. The design of the mobiles was based on fabric patterns used in the collection.

- Click on the images to see the related projects -

Another good example are the three large custom mobiles I designed, made and installed in the atrium of the Fair Oaks Marriott in Fairfax, Virginia (via P3 Design Collective and Apple Hospitality REIT). Measuring about 20 feet each in diameter and weighing only 15 pounds, they took only 2 1/2 hours to install, including height adjustments. The mobiles won 3rd Prize in the 2015 International Kinetic Art Competition and the hotel is now the second highest ranked Marriott Hotel in North America for "Design and Decor".

If you're interested, please contact me with questions and details, such as a description, a photo or a render of your space, design or style preferences, the approximate dimensions you'd like the mobile or kinetic art installation to have, budget, and the time frame you're working with.

All work that I do is covered by liability insurance for up to $1 million (Insurance Certificate / Declarations available upon request).

.

- Click on the images to see the related projects -

- Click on the images to see the related projects -

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Large Custom Art Mobiles and Hanging Kinetic Sculptures

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I'm a sculptor specializing in mobiles and suspended kinetic art installations. I design, build and install custom mobiles from small to large scale.

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This would be neat if it can expand and contract on its own, timed, or with some sort of interaction.

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Hobermans Sphere designed by Johan Wood in Norway. I got the files from the Amsterdam Fablab website (http://fablab.waag.org/) changed them to fit our 5mm MDF and put it on our site (http://fablab.ccsti-grenoble.org/node/33) but I figured it should also be found here for it is awsome.