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ALL THE IMP POINTS AND KEY RESEARCH CONTENT WRITTEN POINT BY POINT TO HELP US WITH OUR RESEARCH WORK

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It was nice to discuss briefly your project on Friday. However I was sad not to see the whole group. These are crucial touch points for you and me to help you manage the project.
I do hope you will communicate, share update and meet up before next Friday in order to process!

Please consider the following:

- you should map put the history and the implementations of plastics in fashion to date ( from fibers, packaging, to plastic bags..)
- create factual and passionate awareness of the current state of plastics that are uses in fashion, the implications and consequences

> How to stop using virgin places in fashion industry
> How to utilize exciting plastic ( collate all exciting brands, companies start ups, organizations from Parley for the Oceans to alternative to packaging such Tipa ( https://tipa-corp.com )

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WICHITA, Kan. - May 6, 2014 - INVISTA, one of the world's largest integrated producers of polymers and fibers, and owner of the LYCRA® brand, introduces the only commercial offering of a bio-derived spandex available globally and for use in a wide variety of apparel fabrics and garments. Approximately 70 percent by weight of the new LYCRA® bio-derived spandex fiber comes from a renewable source made from dextrose derived from corn. The use of a renewable feedstock in the making of this new LYCRA® bio-derived fiber results in a lower CO₂ emissions footprint than spandex produced using traditional raw materials.
With this new LYCRA® brand offering, INVISTA is providing retailers and manufacturers of stretch fabrics a spandex fiber option that can impact the overall lifecycle analysis of the fabric and garment. The new fiber is made to INVISTA's high standards and specifications. Therefore, INVISTA does not anticipate a need to re-engineer fabrics and finishing processes, or garment patterns.

The announcement underscores INVISTA Apparel's commitment to innovation. Dr. Robert L. Kirkwood, executive vice president of Apparel Marketing and Technology said, "The bio-derived LYCRA ® fiber offering is another example that confirms INVISTA's commitment to the Apparel industry."

Arnaud Tandonnet, INVISTA Apparel global sustainability director, said, "We are very aware that sustainability topics are becoming increasingly important in the textile and apparel value chain, with growing awareness and building education on the subject at the consumer, brand/retail and mill level. In our research facilities we have successfully produced the fiber and evaluated it in fabric applications. The production of commercial quantities is planned for the autumn/winter 2015 and spring/summer 2016 collections. We look forward to working with our customers throughout the value chain as we expand this new development."

INVISTA Apparel and Advanced Textiles business is committed to its own sustainability program, PLANET AGENDA, which is focused on three main objectives:

Minimizing INVISTA environmental footprint by conserving resources, reducing emissions and eliminating waste at its manufacturing plants.

Offering competitive products that meet the needs of the apparel markets using fewer resources and to enhance the environmental performance of all fabrics.

Protecting the health and safety of our workers and communities and participating in local stewardship initiatives.

About INVISTA
With leading brands including LYCRA®, COOLMAX®, CORDURA®, STAINMASTER® and ANTRON®, INVISTA is one of the world's largest integrated producers of chemical intermediates, polymers and fibers. The company's advantaged technologies for nylon, spandex and polyester are used to produce clothing, carpet, car parts and countless other everyday products. Headquartered in the United States, INVISTA operates in more than 20 countries and has about 10,000 employees.
Source: INVISTA, press release, 2014-05-06.

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INVISTA Announces the Availability of LYCRA® Fiber Produced with a Renewable Bio-Based Raw Material - Bio-based News -

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WICHITA, Kan. - May 6, 2014 - INVISTA, one of the world's largest integrated producers of polymers and fibers, and owner of the LYCRA® brand, introduces the only commercial offering of a bio-derived spandex available globally and for use in a wide variety of apparel fabrics and garments.

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Sustainably Made Sunglasses From Bamboo, Wood & Cork

With sunny days ahead of us, it's finally time to bring out our favorite eco-friendly sunglasses! We are huge fans of sustainable frames made from materials such as cork, reclaimed wood, and bamboo. As the fastest growing wood in the world, bamboo is an excellent material for sunglasses design. By nature it is stronger than steel, lightweight, long-lasting, tolerable of extremes, and doesn't even require replanting. It's also moisture resistant, floatable, and showcases a stunning wood grain style.

Other materials, like cork and wood, also have a minimal impact on the environment. Harvesting cork only requires extracting bark from a tree, which helps enhance the forest life cycle. It is also reusable, biodegradable, an excellent insulator, and fire and water resistant. These 9 sunglasses brands are not only trendsetters in style, but in the conscious-consumer movement as well. Each is dedicated to sustainability, customer service, and giving back.

Grown Eyewear sunglasses are handcrafted from durable Bamboo and hardwoods. All of the materials used are organic, renewable and free from harmful or toxic elements. Each pair has a completely unique grain pattern, and stunning, natural design. Inspired by a desire to make a deep and meaningful impact on the planet, Grown also partners with WIRES, a wildlife rescue and care organization in Australia.

Based In | San Diego, CA
Eco Materials | Repurposed bamboo & recycled plastic
Give Back | Partners with Aravind Eye Care System and Restoring Vision
Price | $59-$89

This line of trendsetting, adventure-inspired sunglasses started as a class project at San Diego State University. Since the opening of SOLO Eyewear, the business has been committed to the mantra #LiveandGive and has restored vision for over 13,000 individuals. By donating 10% of profits, they are able to provide eye exams, glasses, and cataract surgeries to those in need. SOLO got it's name from its empowering focus, "One idea. One person. One action can change the world." Their powerful story has been featured on Forbes, Today, Time, and Good Morning America.

Based In | Boise, ID
Eco Materials | FSC-certified wood, cotton-based acetate, and repurposed skateboard decks
Give Back | Partner with Nature Conservancy in Idaho, Boarding for Breast Cancer, HELP International
Price | $90-$130

Proof Eyewear is a pioneer in sustainable eyewear and "embraces the idea of being global citizens by doing good around the world." The brand was founded in 2010 by 3 brothers in Idaho who stand for heritage, sustainability, and giving back. 12% of Proof's annual profits have been donated on a project-by-project basis in India, El Salvador, Nepal, the Philippines, and Uganda. Peruse their website for updates on these projects, and to purchase a pair of their beautifully designed sunglasses!

Based In | Washington, USA
Eco Materials | Sustainable bamboo
Give Back | Partners with Optometry Giving Sight's Gift of Vision Project
Price | $120

Launched as a Kickstarter in 2012, Panda Sunglasses is all about "Fashion with a Purpose." Their sunglasses are made from sustainable bamboo, and each purchase gives back to the community. Panda Sunglasses is dedicated to partnerships that provide employee training and help start eye care centers around the world. Each sunglasses sale contributes to free exams, prescription glasses, and medical aid for those with eye deficiencies. These glasses have been adored and promoted by the Today Show, AMA, and the US Men's Soccer Team.

We love the distinctly Australian style of Sticks & Sparrow sunglasses-all of which come with 100% UV protection and scratch-resistant lenses. This brand is committed to sustainable materials and minimizing waste. After 15 years in the eyewear industry, they promise not to enter "into the crowded and competitive adult eyewear market." Instead, they firmly stick to their connection with nature. For the indecisive online shopper, Sticks & Sparrow offers an easy option to try frames on at home before you buy!

Woodzee sunglasses are made of wood and bamboo, combining sophisticated style with nature's influence. They take pride in customer service and a seamless shopping experience. With Woodzee's recycle program, customers are able to recycle old Woodzee glasses and receive 50% off the next order. Woodzee's wide variety of stylish frame shapes and colors is sure to offer something you'll love for sunny days!

Woodwear sunglasses are "wearable art." Their frame designs are inspired by California beach culture, resulting in a line perfect for those who love the sun, sand, and outdoors! Woodwear donates to various helping organizations on a cyclical basis. They believe in using their business to support others who are doing good and making a positive difference for humanity. If you can't decide which pair is meant for you, try their 5 for 5 policy-for five days you can wear five different frames to feel what suits you best.

Based In | Pawleys Island, SC
Eco Materials | Sustainable bamboo
Give Back | Partners with the Green School to help Balinese children attend school tuition-free
Price | $99-$125

Swell Vision was started by a Junior in high school who grew the business out of a desire to inspire others to "Leave the world a better place than we found it." After learning about the Green School in Bali, he realized real change in environmental practices requires education. When Swell Vision opened, he committed to a continuous contribution the the school's Local Scholars Programme, which offers tuition-free education to underprivileged Balinese children. Swell Vision's sunglasses are perfect for the outdoorsy, adventurous, and fashion-conscious.

MODO glasses emphasize creativity, innovation, and have a high-end appeal for the socially-conscious consumer. Perfect for the trendsetting professional or city-dweller, each frame has its own personality. The contemporary and sleek designs are strikingly unique and bold. They are designed, manufactured, and distributed in-house in SOHO, New York. Each MODO purchase results in a newly planted tree, or a free pair of glasses given to someone in need.

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9 Eco-Friendly Sunglasses You Can Wear This Summer & Beyond

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With sunny days ahead of us, it's finally time to bring out our favorite eco-friendly sunglasses! These eyewear brands are both stylish and socially conscious using sustainable materials like bamboo, bork and wood. Each is dedicated to sustainability, customer service, and giving back.

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As sustainability continues to be the focal topic of discussion in all things textiles, more and more options are becoming available to designers looking to start an eco-friendly label, or for those shifting to their first sustainable collection. From plants to fish, below are a few of the many natural alternatives now available to replace harmful synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon.

Hemp - Hemp is one of the oldest domesticated crops known to man. It has been used for paper, textiles, and cordage for thousands of years, dating back to as early as 8,ooo BC. Hemp is categorized as a bast - a strong woody fiber obtained chiefly from the phloem of a plant, which grows on the outside of the plant's stalk.

Unlike many fibers used in today's apparel industry, hemp is grown without the use of harmful chemicals, pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers. It is also a high-yield crop that grows very rapidly and with little irrigation (50% less than cotton), making it a very appealing and "clean" option for designers. Other benefits of hemp: tensile strength and durability (8x that of cotton), hypoallergenic, breathable, and UV resistant.

It is no wonder that Stella McCartney, Calvin Klein and a host of other labels now use the fiber in their apparel, with many others quickly catching on. Hemp can be used to make many products, including jeans, shirts, dresses, hats and bags.

Fish Leather - Fish leather is a great alternative to traditional hides. It is made from the skin of different fish species, such as salmon, perch and carp. These fish species are regularly consumed, and the skins would often be wasted otherwise. Fish skins are considered exotic and serve as a great substitute to the typical exotic leathers like as crocodile and snake that threaten endangered species.

The tanning process of fish skins uses far less chemicals than that of other animal skins, eliminating things like lye and acid that cause atmospheric pollution. They are very durable and their texture depends on the size and shape of the scale pockets, which can vary from 2mm to 2cm in size according to the species.

Fish leather is ideal for accessories, commonly used to make purses, wallets, jewelry and shoes. Major brands like Prada, Dior and Nike have all found ways to incorporate this material into their collections.

Tencel - Tencel® is a natural fiber known for its flattering drape and soft, luxurious hand-feel. It is the brand name for a fabric from a fiber generically called lyocell, which is owned by Lenzing Fibers of Austria.

Lyocell is made from the wood pulp of the eucalyptus tree. The fiber is produced with minimal impact on the environment - using a non-toxic solvent that is continually recycled during the production process - and economical use of energy and water. Further, eucalyptus requires fewer pesticides and far less acreage to grow than cotton, thus it is much more eco-friendly.

The fabric made from Lyocell is breathable and naturally wrinkle-resistant, making it a favorable material among major fashion brands like Patagonia, Banana Republic and L.L. Bean.

Flax - Flax is one of the most promising developments in sustainable textiles today. While most flax is grown and harvested for its grain and turned into food, its fiber can also be transformed into materials that look and feel similar to cotton.

Flax fibers come from the flax plant and are usually used to make linen, which is known to be one of the world's strongest and most durable natural fibers. The bast fiber is one of the oldest agricultural crops in the world and is naturally pest-resistant. It also requires very little fertilization and chemicals to thrive, and little to no irrigation. The fact that every part of a flax plant is used makes it all the more eco-friendly.

Because of its tensile strength and breathability, along with its cool touch, linen is great for everything from apparel to bedding and various other interior textiles.

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4 Eco-Friendly Alternatives for Commonly Used Textiles

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As sustainability continues to be the focal topic of discussion in all things textiles, more and more options are becoming available to designers looking to start an eco-friendly label, or for those shifting to their first sustainable collection. From plants to fish, below are a few of the many natural alternatives now available to replace harmful synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon.

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Sustainable swimwear? The best brands using ocean waste to create stylish suits

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Sustainable swimwear? The best brands using ocean waste to create stylish suits

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https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/introducing-best-sustainable-swimwear-brands-use-ocean-waste/

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https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2015/jan/22/fabric-recycling-closed-loop-process-high-street-fashion

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This article shows how plastic has drastically grown and it has increasingly polluted the environment through a rapid rate
https://ourworldindata.org/plastic-pollution

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https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/jan/16/industry-alliance-sets-out-1bn-to-tackle-oceans-plastic-waste

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Plastics may actually be co-opted to help reduce harm to the environment -- but only if we stop screwing it up in all those other ways we mess with it

In 1992, a shipping container filled with 28,000 "rubber" duckies was lost after it fell into the sea somewhere between Hong Kong and the United States. Even today, those plastic bath toys still wash ashore from time to time ( link), even in totally different oceans as far away as the eastern seaboard of the United States, as well as the coasts of Britain and Ireland. That flotilla of escaped plastic ducks joins millions of Lego pieces, sneakers, styrofoam insulation, plastic crates and a plethora of other items lost at sea ( link) that -- surprisingly -- are teaching us about ocean currents and about the astonishing indestructibility of plastics in marine environments.

But all this plastic waste is very harmful: listed here are the five ways that plastics harm the environment, birds and wildlife -- and even people. But as with anything, even plastics may actually have a beneficial use, despite the damage they are causing.
1. Plastic is ubiquitous
Plastic debris is found absolutely everywhere, from the Arctic to Antarctica. It clogs street drains in our cities; it litters campgrounds and national parks, and is even piling up on Mount Everest ( link). But thanks runoff, and to our fondness for directly dumping our trash into the nearest river or lake, plastic is growing increasingly common in the world's oceans.

Mountains of plastic trash have been found everywhere in the world's oceans, from one of the remotest specks of dirt on the planet, Henderson Island, a tiny uninhabited coral atoll in the middle of the Pacific Ocean ( ref), to the deepest spot on Earth, the Mariana Trench ( ref), which plummets to a depth of 10,994 meters (36,070 feet) below sea level. As that flotilla of escaped rubber duckies demonstrated, floating plastic even forms massive "garbage patches" swirling slowly in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, thousands of kilometers away from land.

But more than floating around in the water column, plastic trash is found in the guts of more than 90% of the world's sea birds ( ref), in the stomachs of more than half of the world's sea turtles ( ref), and it's even choking the life out of whales ( ref). At the rate at which plastic is accumulating in the oceans of the planet, it's predicted that, by 2050, the mass of plastic in the world's oceans will exceed the mass of all the fish that live there ( ref).
2. Plastics are one of the main products of fracking
We already know that fracking is bad for the planet -- it pollutes water, soil and air with toxins, it creates underground cavities that collapse into sinkholes, and it raises pressure in underground rock formations, destabilizing them and leading to earthquakes, even in places where earthquakes are uncommon. Adding insult to injury, one of the main products of fracking is ... plastics. Basically, fossil fuels removed from shale and other rock formations are turned into resin pellets that are used to manufacture ever more plastics, plastics that are easily discarded, plastics that usually are designed to be single use.

You may not know that plastics manufacturers are dangerous to the environment, to wildlife and to people in other ways, too. For example, the British chemical industry giant, Ineos, has 75 manufacturing facilities in 22 countries, including the United States. In addition to contributing to growing mountains of plastic rubbish, Ineos facilities can boast an impressive -- and growing -- record of fires, explosions, and chemical leaks.

"The Ineos facility in Cologne, Germany was the site of a massive fire in 2008, and there have been a series of high profile accidents elsewhere -- a major oil leak in Norway, a number of chemical leaks in France, long-running controversies over chemical dumping in Italy, and the release of toxic gas that resulted in the hospitalization of workers in Belgium," according to a report ( ref) written by Food and Water Watch and Food and Water Europe.
3. Plastics kill more than just people
In the last few months, the effects upon wildlife that come from eating, or becoming entangled in, plastic debris have been reported more widely and more often than ever before, leading to public outcry and protests.

These tragic events should come as no surprise: there are an estimated 270,000 tons of plastic floating through the world's seas where it threatens 700 marine species with its presence ( ref). Further, there is growing evidence that plastics play a role in rising rates of species extinctions.

But entangling or lodging inside the digestive tract of an unfortunate victim, like whales and other marine mammals, birds, sea turtles and fishes, is not the end of the line, because plastics do not biodegrade, nor are they digestible. Instead, large plastic pieces break into smaller fragments that are easy for even more animal species to consume. Eating plastics results in malnutrition, intestinal blockage, or slow poisoning from chemicals leached from or attached to plastics.

It's almost as if seabirds and other marine animals are intentionally seeking out plastics and consuming them -- but why? Recent research proposed that plastics in the oceans become covered with marine algae that release a natural sulfur compound, dimethylsulfoniopropionate (DMSP), when they die or become damaged. This chemical is detected by hungry seabirds and other marine creatures, which are attracted to it and then they mistake plastics for lunch ( ref).

Not even microscopic animals, collectively known as zooplankton, are safe from ingesting plastics ( ref), the only difference being that they consume microscopic plastic bits. Similar to plastics consumption by larger animals, microplastics can result in reduced feeding, energetic deficiencies, injury, or death of zooplankton ( ref) -- A Very Bad Thing since zooplankton are part of the essential foundation upon which the entire marine food web rests.
4. Not all plastic is recyclable and not all recyclable plastic is recycled
People are often confused by the terms, "break down" versus "biodegradable" (or "compostable"). When plastics are broken down, this simply means one large piece of plastic is reduced into a bunch of smaller pieces of plastic. These smaller pieces of plastic can be consumed by smaller animals, but are still indigestible.

A minority of plastics are "compostable" or "biodegradable", which means they can be reduced to their chemical components by, say, your home compost. Other plastics can only be successfully composted by industrial or municipal facilities after first being separated from other, non-biodegradable, plastics.

Unfortunately, most people are confused as to which plastics fall into this biodegradable category, and this confusion often is most apparent when confronted with unfamiliar plastics in unfamiliar places. For example, are plastic water bottles purchased, say, at the airport biodegradable? Should they be disposed into the recycling bin or into the food waste bin? It's often challenging to know, especially since little useful information is typically available to quickly make a decision.
5. Most plastics last forever
Once again, as demonstrated by the 1992 rubber duckie escape, plastics survive even the harshest conditions, such as floating around in a marine environment under blistering, unrelenting sunshine or frozen into Arctic ice for years before finally floating away and landing on some faraway shore. For this reason, plastics will probably outlast humanity itself. It is this apparent immortality leads me to my last point, which is that plastics may be co-opted for good.
Plastics could be used to benefit the environment
It is tempting to demonize plastics, but realistically, plastics themselves are not inherently evil. Plastics make life better, and easier, for us. For example, one of the first things you use every morning and one of the last things you use every night -- your toothbrush -- is made of plastics. Every time you visit your supermarket, you meet many sorts of plastics that serve as packaging to prolong the freshness of foods, and in a hospital, a variety of plastics help prolong your life.

In fact, it is the immortality of plastics has inspired some enterprising researchers to begin thinking "outside of the box" to develop innovations to re-purpose already existing plastics, perhaps to even reduce the effects of climate change. How?

The key lies in the chemical structure of plastics. Plastics are made of long chains -- polymers -- of carbon molecules, such as carbon dioxide (CO2) and methane (CH4). Methane gas is a molecule in cow farts that is eighty times more powerful than CO2 for causing climate change. CO2 gas is produced by burning natural things, like gas, oil, wood or plastics, and for this reason, we produce far more CO2 than methane, so the cumulative effects of all that CO2 are much greater than those of methane gas. Basically, if we could permanently remove a portion of CO2 or CH4 gases from the atmosphere by sequestering them into plastics, we would effectively be preventing these gases from causing further damage to the climate.

One such enterprising company, Mango Materials, a small start-up in California, is working to reduce the methane gas problem in wastewater treatment plants by harnessing the ability of particular microbes to capture methane and stick them together to create polymers that then can be manufactured into larger and more useful pieces of plastic.

Another company, which was listed included in Forbes's 2018 "30 under 30" list in Manufacturing and Industry ( link), is Filabot. This company converts already existing plastics, like water bottles, into plastic filaments that are used by 3D printers. This repurposes plastic waste into other useful forms instead of dumping it into the ocean, or incinerating it, which then liberates CO2 into the atmosphere where it can contribute to climate change.

Mother Nature herself has a number of clever innovations that we are only beginning to discover and to understand. For example, there is evidence that at least some animals, such as caterpillars ( link), manage to provide homes to their own special collection of gut microbes that can biodegrade at least some sorts traditionally non-biodegradable plastics -- a discovery that could lead to innovations in truly recycling plastics. And just last week, a paper was published that discusses how a group of Japanese scientists developed a "mutant enzyme" that can degrade the traditionally non-biodegradable plastic, PET, which comprises plastic water bottles ( ref). This "mutant enzyme" is 20% more efficient than its original form, produced by the microbe, Ideonella sakaiensis 201-F6.

Hopefully these new innovations and discoveries will inspire yet more creative thinkers to harness the power of their imaginations, perhaps assisted by vast armies of microbes, so we can re-purpose apparently immortal plastics into other useful forms -- maybe even a few more rubber duckies -- whilst preventing the escape of damaging CO2 and CH4 into the atmosphere.

Five Ways That Plastics Harm The Environment (And One Way They May Help) | @GrrlScientist

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Five Ways That Plastics Harm The Environment (And One Way They May Help)

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Plastics may actually be co-opted to help reduce harm to the environment -- but only if we stop screwing it up in all those other ways we mess with it

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Purpose of including alternative leather fabrics: 

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Purpose of including alternative leather fabrics: 

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The articles I have attached are just for reference as per my previous research as we discussed in our meeting.

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A sustainable film made from a byproduct of kombucha tea could be a new material for clothing, shoes, or handbags.

The gel-like film, grown by a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY), feeds on a mixture of vinegar and sugar.

Young-A Lee, an associate professor of apparel, merchandising, and design at Iowa State, says the properties of this SCOBY film are similar to leather once it's harvested and dried, and can be used to make clothing, shoes, or handbags.

In a chapter of the book Sustainable Fibers for Fashion Industry (Springer Singapore, 2016), Lee reports the results of her case study on cellulosic fiber. The material has been tested for other applications, such as cosmetics, foods, and biomedical tissue for wound dressing, but it is relatively new to the apparel industry.

The fact that the fiber is 100 percent biodegradable is a significant benefit for the fashion industry, which by its very nature generates a lot of waste, Lee says.

"Fashion, to most people, is an ephemeral expression of culture, art, and technology manifesting itself in form. Fashion companies keep producing new materials and clothing, from season to season, year to year, to fulfill consumers' desire and needs," Lee says. "Think about where these items eventually go. They will take tremendous underground spaces of the Earth like other trash."

Lee envisions a truly sustainable fabric or material that is biodegradable and goes back into the soil as a nutrient rather than taking up space in a landfill. And using the SCOBY gives new purpose to the tea byproduct, lessening the fashion industry's dependence on nonrenewable materials.

Slow fashion?

Working with a novel fiber has its challenges. Lee and her research team received a grant from the Environmental Protection Agency to develop sustainable clothing and shoes from the harvested cellulosic fiber. They've conducted several tests to determine if the SCOBY-based cellulosic fiber is a viable alternative to leather for the fashion industry.

The tests revealed that one of the biggest problems is moisture absorption from the air and the person wearing the vest or shoes. The moisture softens the material and makes it less durable. Researchers also discovered that cold conditions make it brittle.

Mass production is another issue to confront. Lee says it takes around three to four weeks, depending on temperature and room conditions, to grow the material in the lab. Her team is working on how, and if it is possible, to reduce the growth cycle for mass production.

"It does not take that long to make certain synthetic materials, but for this new material we are proposing, it requires a certain amount of time to grow, dry, and treat the material within specific conditions," Lee says.

Would you wear the material?

Despite the challenges, Lee says this is a necessary step forward. More is at stake than just the waste from cheap, disposable clothing. The chemicals used to make the synthetic materials and dye fabrics can contaminate the water and soil, Lee says. The fashion industry is working to do better, but consumers must also be on board.

"Socially conscious awareness from the consumer end plays a lot," Lee says. "Employees who work in the fashion industry need to be fully educated on this movement. The industry cannot shift things at one time. It is all about people in this industry. The key is changing their values to consider the betterment of people and the planet in a long run, instead of focusing on a consumer's short-coming interest."

Supporting an environmentally friendly brand is important for many consumers, but the look and feel of the clothing will drive purchase decisions. Lee and her team surveyed college students to gauge their response to a vest prototype made from the cellulose fiber. The majority thought it was made of leather, rawhide, paper, or plastic.

Survey participants were most concerned about the color and texture of the material, and questioned the comfort, durability, and care. They had a positive attitude about the material because of its sustainability, and thought it was an interesting alternative to leather. However, their willingness to purchase a product made of this material was not as high.

Still, Lee is confident that researchers can successfully work through these concerns and provide a safer and viable option to benefit people on many different levels. Lee and her research team hope it will prompt consumers to think about what they can do to promote and support sustainable fashion practices.
Source: Iowa State University

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This sustainable 'leather' comes from kombucha tea

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A film made from a byproduct of kombucha tea could be a sustainable option for clothing, shoes, or handbags. Would you wear these shoes?

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Normal (Solid color effect, without contrasts). The natural grey base color is removed, and this enables us to achieve bright colors, even pure white. In this case the colour of the salmon leather is solid, without its natural two-tone effect of back and belly, and the scale pattern is less noticeable.

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Orange Leather

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Some additional research requirements we discussed

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Some additional research requirements we discussed

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Pineapple Leather

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Plastic Planet is a series on the global plastics crisis that evaluates the environmental and human costs and considers possible solutions to this devastating man-made problem.

Every year, the average American throws away 70 pounds of clothing, sending massive amounts of textiles to landfills or incinerators and contributing to the emission of hazardous greenhouse gases, which speeds up climate change. There's no question that the rise of fast fashion and the ever-increasing rate at which consumers are discarding clothes has contributed to fashion's serious environmental problem. The industry is currently the second largest polluter in the world, after fossil fuels. And while companies and consumers are increasingly doing more work to recycle garments and keep clothes out of landfills, only part of the issue is being addressed.

The impact of synthetic microfibers is not often discussed, which is a plastic pollutant that most of our clothes release through wash and wear.

Some clothing is made from natural fibers, like cotton, silk, and wool, but the industry relies more and more on synthetic, plastic-based options such as polyester, nylon, and spandex for a lot of garments, including workout gear, sweatshirts, dresses, and underwear. These synthetic materials are a generally inexpensive alternative, making them ideal for the high-volume demands of fast fashion. According to Greenpeace, polyester is now used in about 60% of our clothes.

While microfibers can come from any type of fabric, it's the synthetic, non-biodegradable ones that have environmentalists concerned. "All clothing material will generate fibers, whether it's synthetic or non-synthetic," Dimitri Deheyn, an associate researcher with the Scripps Institute of Oceanography's Marine Biology Research Division, tells Teen Vogue. "The big difference is that cotton is natural and will be degraded, digested, and disappear into the environment very quickly; as opposed to synthetic microfibers, which will remain in the environment and float around for ages."

Read on to better understand the issue and learn how to combat microfiber pollution.

The role microplastics - microscopic pieces of plastic - play in plastic pollutions is vast. They are present in bottled water, table salt, and the fish that we eat. But we hear far less about microfibers.

"Microplastics [are derived] from the degradation of larger pieces of plastic, [such as] bottles, plastic bags, or little things like that," Deheyn says. Deheyn explains that these microscopic fibers, not clear to the naked eye, are generated when fabric material degrades. The tiny fragments are approximately 10- to 20-times smaller than the width of human hair, so you won't see any jarring images of sea life visibly affected by them, but multiple studies confirm they're infiltrating waterways and oceans en masse, largely as a result of humans and the textiles we use and wear. A 2011 study published by Environmental Science & Technology found that microfibers accounted for 85% of human-made debris on shorelines around the world, The Guardian reported. And a 2017 study published in the Marine Pollution Bulletin concluded that New York's Hudson River could be sending 300 million microfibers into the Atlantic Ocean every day.

But how exactly do these tiny fibers actually get into the environment and water? To an extent, it's just by existing: Deheyn explains that the materials we're wearing break down in the sun or get carried away by the wind. "Anything that you and I wear eventually is exposed to the elements and will just slowly shed little things here and there," he says, noting that synthetic clothing leaves "invisible pollution" wherever it's worn.

But the primary vehicle for microfiber pollution is what Jordan Nodarse, director of denim and special projects at Reformation, refers to as the "touching water process." Anytime a fiber comes into contact with water, whether it's during production or in your home washing machine, the tiny ends of it come off. For example, Nodarse tells Teen Vogue, "You have your favorite T-shirt over the course of 10 years. You're washing it, washing it, washing it, [and] by 10 years later, after washing it all those years and wearing it, it feels lighter, it feels softer, and the reason [...] is because it shedded part of its fiber."

And unlike dryers with their lint traps, washing machines don't have filters to catch that shedding, so the fibers instead get carried away with wastewater, Deheyn explains. Not all wastewater treatment plants are equipped to filter out such fine, invisible fibers, and many end up continuing on to water streams that lead to the oceans.

According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, the washing of synthetic textiles contributes 35% of all global releases of microplastics into the oceans. And not only do synthetic and low-quality materials shed more in the washing process but once they're in the water, they're there for good. "All the plastic fibers that have been produced are still somewhere on this planet...or they are burned," Robert van de Kerkhof, chief commercial officer at Lenzing, a company that develops natural alternatives to synthetic fibers, tells Teen Vogue. "A lot of them end up in landfills [and] a lot of them end up [...] in waters."

In short: They're everywhere. "The way I see it: We live in a soup of those microfibers and microplastics that float around us that we breathe," Deheyn says. In fact, Deheyn and his fellow researchers even found microfibers in snow samples in the North Pole, he shares.

"There is no place that is removed enough from not having any impact," he says. "Things are getting so small that they travel the world and they get deposited in the most remote places in the world, whether it's the North Pole, whether it's the top of Mount Everest, or the bottom of the ocean."

Once microfibers are in the water supply, they are consumed by fish and other sea life ("If you catch a fish, it will be full of microfibers in the gut," Deheyn says) and potentially by the humans who then eat those creatures. And, like microplastics, he says they're likely prevalent in drinking water, whether from bottles or taps. "You and I probably drink and breathe microfibers, maybe even eat them," he says. "It is estimated that about three-to-five million microfiber pieces are in a human body at a single time. They just flow through us."

Because research surrounding microfibers is still relatively new, experts don't yet know the possible impacts on animal or human health, but they have predictions, some based on the health risks they know microplastics carry. Not only can microplastics absorb harmful bacteria in the water (which then is consumed by fish and humans), but studies also suggest the chemicals they innately contain from the manufacturing process could pose risks to human health when ingested. "Microplastics, of course, have toxic impacts," Deheyn says. "One would expect the same from microfibers, but the distinction has not been made yet."

As David Pinsky, a senior oceans campaigner with Greenpeace USA, tells Teen Vogue, plastics are "made out of these synthetic materials that are based on fossil fuels. It's hard to imagine that they are good for our health."

One of the big questions Deheyn and his team of researchers are looking to answer is whether or not microfibers that fish eat move into areas of the body that impact an animal's health - including the portions of the fish that humans eat. If so, he says, they can physically or chemically attack healthy cells and serve as vehicles for contaminants and bacteria that accumulate within the fibers themselves - which humans then ingest.

"It's not just an issue for our environment, but it's an issue most likely around public health, and what is the future that we want to be leaving for future generations," Pinsky says. "To continue to have synthetic clothing, we can't allow that if it's going to be polluting our environment."

There's not a clear solution to microfiber pollution, especially when looking at the fashion industry's issues with sustainability. As Matt Dwyer, senior director of materials innovation at Patagonia, tells Teen Vogue, there are many factors to creating and selling eco-friendly clothing, including factory processes, labor practices, and more. Fabric selection is just one, and it's not as simple as using natural fibers. The process of growing and producing materials like cotton, hemp, and wool, he notes "are very, very resource intensive from the amount of water and land that it takes to grow it, the amount of energy that it takes to process it into a fiber, let alone the amount of energy and water it takes to dye those types of things at the end."

So while producing an organic cotton shirt using a virgin material may mean minimal microfiber pollution, it still creates a sizeable carbon footprint. For Patagonia and other green-thinking companies, that means their material selections include a wide range of fibers, including recycled polyester and recycled nylon, all chosen with the goal of minimizing the company's overall carbon footprint.

That said, there's certainly value in seeking out natural alternatives to synthetic fibers and dyes - whether they're made from feces, shrimp, or other natural resources - to address the specific issue of microfiber pollution. Among those alternatives are Lenzing's products, which include the Lyocell fiber TENCEL, Modal, and EcoVero, and similar or identical substitutes are already used by a wide range of brands including Patagonia, Reformation, prAna, Gap, and Levi's. Lenzing's fibers are made with various types of sustainably sourced wood (or in the case of its new Lyocell product, Refibra, cotton scraps that would otherwise be thrown away) through transparent factory processes, and are fully biodegradable. "Because it's 100% wood-based, if you take 100% TENCEL brand, it is part of the natural cycle of the circular economy," van de Kerkhof tells Teen Vogue. "You can theoretically even bury it in your garden and...it's in the earth [and] a few weeks later it will be completely gone." While today, it's rare to find retailers that sell 100% biodegradable garments (versus, for example, a blend of TENCEL and polyester), the ever-increasing use of these alternatives is certainly a step in the right direction.

As for how alternative natural fibers affect the clothes you ultimately buy in stores, the difference is minimal. They're made to feel and function similarly to the cottons, polyesters, and others that you're used to - though some people find they feel a bit softer or more comfortable. "We've been using TENCEL for many years...because it's got this beautiful, silky hem," Dwyer says, adding that its soft feel is great for clothes like sundresses and shirts that you wear without anything underneath. And while, in general, natural fibers tend to cost more than synthetic versions, van de Kerkhof says when it comes to the overall price you pay for a garment, the difference is almost negligible.

Dwyer says that Patagonia's prices are in the same range as their competitors, with the added bonus of buying eco-friendly products from a company that gives a portion of what you spend back to environmental causes.

The significant cost increase more likely comes from a company's sustainability and fair-labor practices throughout the supply and production chain - which, Nodarse says, is worth it. "You have a better product, and not only is it a better product that feels better, looks better, and [is] higher quality, it's transparent," he says. "If you can, spend a little bit more money on buying a better product from a better brand that's actually making sure the supply chain is safe, and the supply chain isn't damaging the people and the earth in the process of making products."

You may not be out there producing shirts, but there's a lot you can do to help minimize microfiber pollution. For garments you already own, wash your clothes less often. Do you really need to toss that shirt in the laundry after one wear? Can you spot clean a small mark? Have you tried putting your jeans in the freezer? And, if you do wash, using cold settings, which according to the Plastic Pollution Coalition, cause less microfiber shedding than hot water? You can invest in a washing bag that catches some of those fibers before they can enter the waterways. (You'll still have to throw them in the trash; and if they are placed in a fully sealed landfill, Dwyer says, they'll at least be contained - though Deheyn notes it's possible the fibers will end up incinerated and in the environment that way.)

Beyond what's already in your closet, help slow down the fast-fashion train by buying less and buying thoughtfully. Opt for secondhand clothes instead of new ones, and be discerning about labels. "People buy [a garment] because it looks good and feels right," van de Kerkhof says. But, "they've got to look at the label, they've got to be much more conscious [about] what is in there. If the consumer is much more conscious about what they buy, why they buy it, what is in it, then I think the fashion industry will be able to use less of these very cheap synthetic fibers."

Push brands to increase transparency when it comes to their materials and supply chain (as with Reformation's sustainability report) and take steps on their end to minimize pollution. (The brand does this by using alternative natural fibers and practices like Patagonia's partnership with a textile mill that pre-sheds and recycles fiber before it's made into clothes.)

"It's a great time for folks to raise their concerns with some of the world's largest companies and call on them to take action to change," Pinsky says. "Ask them what they are doing to innovate design alternatives that are not going to pollute our environment and potentially impact our health." He recommends asking questions and sharing your concerns online, on social media, and in person (by respectfully speaking with store managers, for example). "To start that conversation, it's very powerful," he says. "Simply asking that question, it does raise awareness and puts it back on companies to let them know that their loyal customer base is concerned and wants to see alternatives."

Patagonia, for its part, appreciates that kind of communication from customers. "We are constantly surprised by the level of depth and rigor that folks go through and the questions that we get just through our customer service channel," Dwyer says.

You can also advocate for policy change - like the pending legislation in California that would require any clothing items made up of more than 50% polyester to have warning labels about microfiber pollution - and support environmental organizations and the scientists they work with to research the issue and influence change.

It may seem like a daunting task, but perhaps less so when considering the changes we've seen with larger, single-use plastics. As we as a society have wised up to its harmful impacts, consumers, retailers, and governments have taken action - replacing single-use plastics with reusable options, creating items from recycled materials, and instituting bans on things like plastic bags. "Now we need to see that same level of attention on microfibers," Pinsky says. And by educating yourself on the issue and using your wallet and your voice to push for change, you can help make that happen.
For more information on the global plastics crisis, read the rest of the Plastic Planet series.

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Your Yoga Pants Are Polluting the Water You Drink

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Plastic Planet is a series on the global plastics crisis that evaluates the environmental and human costs and considers possible solutions to this devastating man-made problem. Every year, the average American throws away 70 pounds of clothing, sending massive amounts of textiles to landfills or incinerators and contributing to the emission of hazardous greenhouse gases, which speeds up climate change.