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Introduction to the Baba-Nyonya Community

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Introduction to the Baba-Nyonya Community

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Autonym: Baba-Nyonya
Origins: Baba-Nyonya is a term used by Peranakan Chinese to refer to themselves. For men from the Straits of Malacca, the name Baba is an honorific, while the women are referred to as Nyonya.
Location: Malacca, Penang and Singapore.
Religions: Christianity, Mahayana Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism and Sunni Islam.

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Where Did the Nyonya Kebaya Originate From?

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Where Did the Nyonya Kebaya Originate From?

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The earliest version of the kebaya is thought to have originated in Indonesia or the Majapahit Empire's court in eastern Java in the 15th century.

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Detailed Description of the Nyonya Kebaya

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Detailed Description of the Nyonya Kebaya

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The Nyonya Kebaya is similar to the Javanese kebaya in design, but with a few notable variations. The blouse, for instance, is usually brighter in color and has finer embroidery around the edges. Flowers, butterflies, dragons, and insects are some of the common and popular motifs.

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The Origin of the Kebaya and How It Became an Asean Icon

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The kebaya is one of Asean's most enduring traditional garments. From the timeless Nyonya kebaya to the quintessential Javanese kebaya, the elegant traditional costume has endured for centuries and cemented itself as a fashion icon in the region.

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How Traditional Nyonya Kebaya is Embroidered

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How Traditional Nyonya Kebaya is Embroidered

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Showcasing Peranakan Dress Style to the World

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Showcasing Peranakan Dress Style to the World

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Key points from the article:

1. Nyonya Costumes

Peranakan ladies, known as Nyonya, lean towards Malay dressing styles. The sarong was their go-to piece of clothing, which was often paired with a variety of blouses to form a two-piece outfit.

Towards the early 1930s, Nyonyas started wearing embroidered robia voile kebayas over cotton camisoles. Hence, the Nyonya Kebaya was born.

The first Nyonya kebayas were not embroidered, but instead had large lace edging. Portuguese and Dutch influences are thought to have influenced this form of fabric accentuation.

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Showcasing Peranakan dress style to the world | New Straits Times

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KUALA LUMPUR: "The recent 68th Miss Universe competition saw our country's representative, Shweta Sekhon, showcasing a stunning Peranakan-themed national costume," a friend calls me up excitedly soon after our homegrown designer's unique creation was spotted on stage.

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Babas wear the Baju Lokchuan or in other words, the Mandarin Jacket. It is a traditional Chinese attire and it is made up of a long-sleeved slik jacket. It is usually paired with a matching pair of loose-fitting trousers.

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Peranakan Life Malaysia - Baba Baju Lok Chuan (Mandarin Jacket)

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Peranakan Life is a Website dedicated to the Peranakan Heritage, Culture and Identity. Discover Baba Nyonya Heritage, Culture, Food, Clothings and more!

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Autonym: Kadazan
Origins: The Kadazans are a Malaysian ethnic group who originated in the state of Sabah. They are primarily found in Penampang, Sabah's west coast, and the surrounding areas, as well as numerous locations in the interior. Moreover, they make up the majority of Sabah's ethnic community.
Location: Labuan, Sabah
Religions: Christianity, Islam and Animism.

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Detailed Description of the Sinuangga and Tapi

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Detailed Description of the Sinuangga and Tapi

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Traditional Kadazandusun women's garments are known as "sinuangga" and "tapi." They wear sinuangga which is a blouse with a U-neck, and paired with tapi which is a long cylindrical wrap-skirts, and batik scarves with belt himpogot (silver dollar coins) including some other accessories like gold coins.

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Blouse with short sleeves and U-neck worn by younger women. Sober embroidery along the opening for head and arms, and along the seams at the sides and along the middle of the back: red, yellow and cream cotton yarn.

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These costumes have largely maintained their original style and colour, and have been unaffected by several changes over the years.

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Gaung and Souva are Kadazandusun's men traditional clothing. They are almost identical to that of the women. The Gaung is a black long-sleeved shirt with gold trimming and buttons. The black trousers worn with the shirt is called Souva, which also has gold details and trimmings.

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10 Most Beautiful Traditional Costumes of Sabah

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10 Most Beautiful Traditional Costumes of Sabah

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Key points from the article:

1. Chinese Influence

Kadazan Penampang men's jackets and trousers have a Chinese influence. They wear siga, a very intricately woven square piece of headcloth that is handwoven or embroidered and folded to the form of Mount Kinabalu's top. Siga is worn by the majority of Kadazandusun males.

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Sabah culture is so colourful. We have over 30 indigenous and 200 sub-ethnic groups, most of them have distinct traditional costume, a heritage that tells the world their identity, traditions, and stories. Sabah is beautiful because of this cultural diversity. I've been photographing Sabah traditional costumes for 15 years and would like to share what I think are the 10 most beautiful traditional costumes of Sabah (not in any order).

Please note there are always variants in costumes due to different occasions such as wedding, ceremony and social status, so I only can give you a general view. FYI, many ethnic groups share common elements such as linangkit (needlework), siga (headgear) and belts (e.g. Tangkong, Himpogot).

1. Kadazan Penampang

Kadazandusun is the largest indigenous group of Sabah, and Kadazan Penampang is the biggest sub-ethnic. Their traditional costume has become an iconic dress to represent Sabahans.

Kadazan Penampang costume has basic trimmings and embroidery and may look a bit plain. However, simplicity is beauty, like Vietnamese Ao Dai and Chinese Cheongsam. Though it has relatively less shining ornaments and accessories, it is an elegant cloth inspired by sarong kebaya.

The costume of young female consists of a long cylindrical wrap skirt and a sleeveless blouse ( Sinuangga'), and decorated with gold trimmings running along the opening for head and arms, and along the seams at the side and along the middle of the back. Around the trimming on neck and front is 20 or more gold plated Betawi buttons.

Silver-dollar chains ( himpogot) and brass ring belts ( tangkong) in set of 2 to 3 are worn around the waist and hip to emphasize the curve. Some himpogot and tangkong are antique passed on to women as heirloom or wedding dowry, they can cost thousands of dollars!

The jacket and trousers of Kadazan Penampang men bear some Chinese influence. They wear headgear called siga, a very intricately woven square piece of headcloth, handwoven or embroidered, and folded to the shape of the peak of the Mount Kinabalu. Most men from Kadazandusun ethnic group wear siga.

The basic material for clothing is black commercial fabric, silk or velvet for ceremonial occasions. It is also made from cotton for daily wear.

2. Dusun Lotud

With a population of only 6,000 in Tuaran district, Dusun Lotud is very famous for weaving the embroidered panel called linangkit, which is used to decorate the skirt, sash and trousers of many Sabah tribes. Without linangkit, Sabah traditional costumes would be far less colourful.

In English, linangkit is sometimes referred to as needle weave or tapestry weave. a technique closely resembles the tatting or frivolite in Europe. Strips of linangkit are used by various native tribes to decorate and join the seams of their clothing. Different ethnic groups have different patterns and colours of linangkit.

The traditional costume of Dusun Lotud, be it the long sleeve ceremonial attire or short sleeve version, is just gorgeous. In fact, this costume is one of the favourite choice for contestants in Unduk Ngadau beauty pageant (Harvest Festival Queen) during Kaamatan (Sabah Harvest Festival).

Man is wearing headgear called sundi can be folded in different ways. When two points stick out, the weaver has two wives and so on (now you know!).

3. Rungus

Rungus of northern Sabah is considered as the most "traditional" and unique tribe among all Sabah indigenous groups. Rungus women wear a dark bandeau with delicate hand-stitched patterns, a matching knee-length tube skirt and a slipover that drapes over the arms like sleeves. The narrow upper zone of the bodice is decorated with horizontal bands filled with floating weft and/or embroidered motifs. The lower part of the bodice is embellished with vertical bands.

The women's hair is pulled back in a neat bun and decorated with a titimbok (a multi-colored floral headpiece), sisingal (a thin band of beads tied together around the forehead) and rampai (a hairpin which has two or three rows of folded pieces of colourful cloth strung together and which float down to the nape)

The dress is "musical" too, by having many tiny brass bells attached to bottom hem line of their skirt, making delightful tinkling sounds when they walk or dance.

Some older Rungus women wear heavy brass ring necklace and legging. It's a fading costume.
Ganggalung: discs of brass coil worn as necklace.
Lungkaki: tightly coiled brass ornament covering the lower legs.

The headgear of men is brightly coloured Kain tinohian (a.k.a. kain pis), a richly embroidered cloth with legendary creatures and takes four months to weave one.

4. Murut Tagol

Murut means "People of the Hill", and majority of this third largest indigenous group of Sabah lives in interior. They were used to be fearsome headhunters in the past, and men preserve their wild warrior outfit until today (they prefer proper shirts anyway).

Murut has over 15 ethnic groups, and Murut Tagol is the most skillful for their weave work. Murut women wear black, sleeveless blouse and a long, black skirt decorated with colourful beads motifs of daily objects such as flowers, insects, animals and ferns. Female skirt has hip belts made of chained white round seeds collected from Job's Tears plant ( Coix lacryma-jobi).

The men costume is even more interesting. They wear vest, frontal and rear flaps made of tree bark. First, barks of the tarap or tamarang ( timadang) trees ( Artcocarps tamaran) are peeled from the trunks, soaked in stream for days to soften them up, then it is pounded, washed and rinsed, and lastly dried under sun for the fabric. However, man costume is too "sexy" so they also wear short pants for more cover.

The headgear of Murut may be adorned with long tail feathers of Great Argus Pheasant. To see more Murut costumes, you may check out Kalimaran Festival which is held annually in Tenom.

5. Bajau Sama

While most Kadazandusun and Murut people use black as the base colour, Bajau goes bold with striking colours such as yellow, red, green and blue. This also reflects in their multi-coloured and elaborate floral motifs in their crafts, an element greatly inspired by Islam. Bajau in Kota Belud town is also known as Cowboys of the East due to their mastery in horse-riding skill.

Bajau women wear an unusual headgear called sarempak, which is a two-pieced head decoration in the shape of a ship made of gilded silver or modern substitute. Small ornaments dangling down from both ends of sarempak are called garigai. Next is the brightly colored satiny blouse usually in yellow. The flared sleeves show the cuffs of an underblouse in contrasting hue.

Shining metallic accessories complement their traditional costume really well. Bajau women covers the front from below the neck to waist with beautiful mandapun, a flat collar-ornament accentuating the neckline decorated with stylized leaves in silver, goldleaf or substitute. To add more colours, long and wide band of linangkit embroidered panels ( berangkit in Bajau) are sewn into their long black wrap-skirt.

Bajau men wear the traditional headgear called kain dastar, which is also used in women skirt. See more their vibrant culture in Tamu Besar Festival which is normally held in October in Kota Belud town. They even dress up their horses!

6. Kadazan Papar

I wonder who designed the traditional costume of Kadazan Papar. It's so cute and "flowerish". The lovely girl costume looks neat and modern. Kadazan Papar women wear a short jacket with gold or silver buttons over a white blouse, and their knee-length black skirt is decorated with a horizontal and vertical cross-stitched panel lined with gold thread. Gold or silver trimming is used on the seams.

The mini conical hat is made of fine bamboo strips and features coloured feather-down or artificial flowers at the top to show the wearer's marital status. Feather-down for the single lady and flowers for the married woman. Another hint is the silver belt (antique British trade dollar), unmarried ladies wear four and married wear two.

If no feather or flower, the woman is widowed, grandmothers or elderly ladies then.

7. Dusun Tindal

Influenced by culture of Bajau Sama in the same district, Dusun Tindal is also the most colourful Kadazandusun sub-ethnic group. Just look at the girl costume, 3-colour slashed and flared sleeves from the elbows, rainbow-like beads girdle around the hips, and also embroider on their arms and hem of the skirt. To add more colours, in formal occasion they also carry sunduk, a multi-color hood with embroidered border.

On top of colours is extensive use of metallic elements: line and line of gold or silver trimmings and sequins are sewn into their blouse and skirt, two to four Himpogot (or Simpogot) silver-dollar chain belts on the waist, one or more of kuapu (a round embossed silver tobacco container made by the Bruneis) are worn around the neck on a silver chain.

Dusun Tindal has brought the creativity of native fashion to the next level. You would be surprised that Dusun Tindal extracts fibre from a wild banana or pisang lanut ( Musa textilis) which is processed into a coarse yarn for weaving their skirts, jackets and headwear.

8. Sea Bajau

While Bajau Sama in West Coast of Sabah has the best horse-riding skill, Sea Bajau (or Suluk) in East Coast is an expert of seafaring. Also known as the Sea Gypsies, Sea Bajau spent most of their time on the boat and sailed around the sea of South East Asia. Now they are not as nomadic and many have called Sabah their homeland.

Similar to Bajau Sama, Sea Bajau is also a fan of bright colours. Their dresses are almost fully covered with colourful patterns, and gold / silver trimmings, sequins and embroidery. Sea Bajau dancers wear long gold or silver fingercovers, to show their fingers dance.

Backed by beating of drum and kulintangan (small brass gong) music, the dance of Sea Bajau is one of the most mesmerizing in Borneo. They shake and move every part of their bodies, combine with rich facial expression to dazzle you, even to a seductive level. To see more of Sea Bajau, don't miss the Lepa-Lepa Festival in April every year in Semporna.

9. Dusun Lebou

Dusun Lebou (or Lobu) is a sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun lives in Sook (in Keningau district of Sabah interior). Their big woven cloth (called Binaduan) takes a month to weave and consists of different Rungus motifs and even some Dayak motifs from the southern part of Borneo. The complete costume is 2 pieces of woven Binaduan sewn together to create the front and back covers. Binaduan is used in skirt too.

The size, design and complexity of Binaduan is simply astonishing. Men's costume has a finer motif called Inambau. Unfortunately, the last person who knows how to weave Inambau has passed away. The traditional costume of Dusun Lebou is complex and special, but this art can go extinct.

In old days, married woman with child was not allowed to be a Binaduan weaver. The story was:- a mother was too engrossed with weaving Binaduan from morning until night that she accidentally starved her baby. Devastated, she forbade any married woman to weave Binaduan. The ban was lifted later so more people can pass on this heritage.

10. Lundayeh

Most Sabah Lundayeh lives in Sipitang, Tenom and Long Pasia. Different to other groups who mostly use black as main colour, white blouse and black skirt are the signature wear of Lundayeh ladies. Lundayeh men wear jackets made of tree barks called kuyu talun.

Bead cap made entirely of beads (it can be glass, carnelian and other materials) is worn by every Lundayeh woman. In the past, only upper class ladies could wear bead cap. Other key accessories are multi-strand necklaces, silver waist belts, and colourful bead girdle wrap around the hip. Overall it's a very clean and stylish traditional costume.

That's all! Have you seen other beautiful costumes that desire to be featured here? What's your top 10 list? Please share it in comment section below.

Now you can see that Sabahans are totally different breed of Malaysians. Put all 200 traditional costumes together and we can make a Sabah version of Wakanda movie.

To learn more about traditional costumes of Sabah, you may visit Chanteek Borneo Indigenous Museum in Tamparuli, which showcases wide array of costume dolls, and it is awarded the title "The First Miniature Indigenous Museum" in the country by Malaysia Book of Records. Want to rent a traditional costume? You can browse Sabah Cultural Board website.

Reference Books

"An Introduction to the Traditional Costumes of Sabah" - January 1, 1997, by Rita Lasimbang and Stella Moo-Tan

"The Beliefs and Practices of the Kadazandusun-Murut Natives of Sabah" - 2017, by John Seet

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10 Most Beautiful Traditional Costumes of Sabah - MySabah.com

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Sabah culture is so colourful. We have over 30 indigenous and 200 sub-ethnic groups, most of them have distinct traditional costume, a heritage that tells ...

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Autonym: Orang Melayu
Origins: The Malays, a race of people who inhabit the Malay Peninsula and parts of Southeast Asia, have a history that can be traced back to many waves of migration down the Malay Peninsula from China's Yunnan province. Various parts of the world formed and influenced Malay culture and identity, including South Asia, China, the Middle East (Islam), and the West.
Location: Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei, Singapore, Thailand
Religions: Sunni Islam

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Sultan Abu Bakar, the founder of modern Johor, invented the baju kurung, which has a 200-year history. Baju kurung, which consists of a knee-length, full-sleeved blouse and a long skirt called kain, is the new traditional dress for women. One side of the skirt is pleated and a scarf on the head is normally worn with this outfit.

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If you're looking at a choice of traditional Malay dresses, your shortlist would almost certainly have the humble baju kurung. It's versatile, suitable for the festive seasons, at formal functions or even as office attire.

The dress is meant to be worn loosely and is rather conservative looking. Still, it has its own special characteristics, which represents grace and tradition for the Malays.

According to fashion expert Salikin Sidek, despite being branded 'old fashion' and conservative, the baju kurung is still popular.

"Baju kurung will always remain popular even though it's perceived as 'outdated' by some'," said the renowned fashion designer who is known for being the champion of traditional Malay dresses such as the baju kurung and baju kebaya.

"It's very comfortable and can be stylish if you know how to carry it off with the right accessories like the selendang and brooches."

According to Salikin, a typical baju kurung is worn with a sarong. This sarong can be tied in a style known as the "ikatan ombak mengalun" where the knot is tied at one side of the sarong, either on the right or left depending on the wearer's convenience.

"This style is preferred because it's more practical and easy for walking when you take big strides.

"Those days, the village women will have a "kain kelubung" to cover their heads as they leave their houses. This is a sort of head-cover to shade from the blazing sun or it's simply used as a shawl," explained Salikin.

Sometimes, the sarong is used in the form of "kain berdagang luar" where the sarong, tied at waist level, is worn over the baju kurung. This sarong is usually made of kain telepok, songket, gerus or kain batik.

Elegant Baju Kebaya

Another popular traditional Malay costume is the kebaya, which, unlike the baju kurung, is a figure-hugging dress.

The materials used are often made of lace, and is heavily embroidered. It is normally worn with a batik sarong, a tight-fitting long skirt that has a slit in front; a plain long skirt; or a wrap around.

However, the kebaya has been revolutionised, and is more versatile these days. The younger generation is wearing kebaya tops with flared skirts, jeans, palazzo pants or pareo, while the kebaya itself is worn like a loose top with a camisole inside.

"Unlike baju kurung, kebaya looks more alluring and elegant. The outfit looks more gracious if you combine it with a long selendang. However, not many Malaysian women will opt for kebaya especially those who are conscious about their figure.

"You need a little bit more confidence to carry off baju kebaya compared to baju kurung," said Salikin who has two boutiques in Ampang Park and SACC Mall in Shah Alam.

Whichever type of traditional attire you choose to wear, Salikin's advice is to wear it elegantly with the right accessories.

"The accessories will enhance the costume and will make you more stylish. But if you dress it down then the whole aura is gone," said Salikin who has been designing all kinds of traditional costumes for weddings and regular customers.

Types of Traditional Malay Attire

Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga

Baju kurung is the traditional apparel for Malay women in Malaysia. This loose-fitting knee-length baggy baju kurung is worn with a sarung. Normally sarung is worn for casual wear at home.

The Teluk Belanga has a typical neckline with no collar, stitched in the 'tulang belut or the 'mata lalat' style. As the name suggests, this baju kurung hails from Teluk Belanga, the island of Singapore, which was previously the capital state of Johor.

Baju Kurung Cekak Musang

This style of baju kurung has the stylish Mandarin-inspired collar or Cekak Musang. The prominent collar comes with five buttons including two buttons for the collar.

This form of Baju Kurung used to be made of velvet with matching songket. It is often adorned with jewelleries and is usually custom-made especially for traditional Malay weddings.

Modern Baju Kurung

This is the latest and modern approach to baju kurung. Even the modern baju kurung has evolved with time. It is shorter, shapelier and worn with a long skirt and comes in various designs.

Unlike the typical baju kurung, kurung modern top has no pesak. Instead, it's replaced by zip and darts while the bottom can be a long skirt, A-line skirt, pareo or mermaid skirt.

This bottom skirt also comes in different styles like wrapped, pleated, with or without slit. While the slit can take about 2 feet long either in front, at the side, the back or with just two flaps at the back.

The modern baju kurung has evolved so much that it comes in many forms. You can see modern baju kurung in all kinds of fabrics from satin, songket, chequered, polka dots, geometric patterns, batik, pastel shades and lively colors.

Kebarung or Kebaya Kurung

This is the alternative baju kurung for those who want to wear something different. It is a combination of the baju kebaya and the baju kurung. It is loose and almost reaches the ankles and it is not one of the traditional clothes of the Malay.

The 'Kebaya Kurung' has a kebaya cut with long sleeves and fastened at the front using chained brooches. It gives out a comfortable outlook on the whole. Women who are cautious of their figure will opt for this style as it offers maximum comfort and is equally appealing.

Kebaya Labuh or Kebaya Panjang

This style of kebaya looks exactly like the short kebaya but it is longer usually below the knees and worn over a sarung. History has it that the Portuguese women wore this long fitted kebaya in 16th century perhaps being influenced by the women in Sumatra, in North Western Indonesia.

Some say the Chinese heavily influences this attire since the open-fronted long-sleeved tunic reminds one of the dresses worn by women of the Ming Dynasty. Then there is another theory, which said that the Arabs influenced this wonderful kebaya because of the emerging influence of Islam.

The Kebaya Nyonya

The Nyonyas or the Peranakan community often wears this alluring Nyonya Kebaya.

This attire has gradually transformed it into a shapely, embroidered blouse, fastened with a set of chained brooches and worn with a matching hand-drawn batik sarong and beaded slippers.

This distinct Kebaya Nyonya with its intricate and beautiful embroidery is a result of the Nyonyas of inter-marriage Chinese-Malay descendants in the straits of Melaka.

Baju Kurung Kedah

This is a short blouse with a baju kurung neckline and a three-quarter sleeves. It is comfortable and practical as you can move around easily because of the practical and hassle-free design.

It is worn with long skirt or batik sarung or a kain pelikat tied to the front with the grand motif infront. Those days, most married Malay women would wear this attire.

Baju Melayu

While the Malay women opt for Baju Kurung, the Malay men wear Baju Melayu. This shirt-like traditional outfit is divided into three parts. The first is the long sleeved shirt-like fastened together by studs called butang or kancing.

The studs usually made of different types of butang from the normal ones to gold, silver, precious or semi-precious stones. The studs may also be connected with a light metal chain, almost string-like, which will be concealed behind the shirt.

The collar looks like a stiff Mandarin collar known as the Cekak Musang. The second part is the trousers. These two parts are often made out of the same type of fabric.

The third is the kain samping, a skirt-type adornment, which is folded around the waist. This kain samping is made of kain tenun, kain songket or simply kain pelikat. To completeson the whole attire, baju Melayu is often worn with a headgear called songkok. - By ZIEMAN

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Baju kurung still a popular choice for many

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If you're looking at a choice of traditional Malay dresses, your shortlist would almost certainly have the humble baju kurung. It's versatile, suitable for the festive seasons, at formal functions or even as office attire. The dress is meant to be worn loosely and is rather conservative looking.

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Key points from the article:

1. Islamic Influence

From the 7th century onwards, Arab merchants started to establish themselves in the Malay Peninsula, bringing Islamic influence. The values of the Middle East started to influence local dressing styles over time.

According to the Sejarah Melayu (Malay Annals), Sultan Mansur Shah, the sixth ruler of Melaka, prohibited Malay women from wearing the kain kemban because it violated basic Islamic teachings regarding personal modesty.

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Enduring charm of the baju kurung | New Straits Times

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"BAJU Kurung has suddenly risen up the ranks in terms of popularity. My phone has been practically ringing off the hook ever since news broke about the Raja Permaisuri Agong's intention to breathe new life into this once-popular traditional ladies' garment," quips a relative who owns several boutiques in Kuala Lumpur's Jalan Ampang during our meet-up recently.

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Malay men's traditional clothing is called baju melayu, which consists of a loose tunic paired with trousers and a sarong known as sampin. They often wear it with a songkok or kopiah, which is a traditional hat.

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Baju Melayu is a traditional Malay outfit for men. It was created since 1234M, during the dua tiga kucing berlari era. It literally translates as 'Malay shirt or dress' and consists of two main parts. The first being the baju (long sleeved shirt) itself which has a raised stiff collar known as the cekak musang collar (literally fox's lease). The second part is the trousers called 'seluar'. The two parts are made out of the same type of fabric which is usually cotton, or a mixture of polyester and cotton.

A skirt-type adornment is also commonly worn with the Baju Melayu, which is either the 'kain samping', made out of songket cloth or the kain sarung, made out of cotton or a polyester mix. Both are loops of fabric which are folded around the wearer's waist. A jet-black or dark coloured headgear called the songkok can also worn to complete the attire.

Basically there are two types of Baju Melayu:
(1) Cekak Musang
In shirts made with the cekak musang collar, the placket of the baju will seem to form a third of the baju from the top when it is worn beneath the kain samping or kain sarung. However, the hem line of the baju actually runs to the middle of the lap. The placket typically has three to five buttonholes and is fastened together by dress studs called kancing which are not unlike those used in Western-style formal dress shirts. The studs usually have screw-in backs and can be made from a variety of materials including gold, silver and precious or semi-precious stones. The studs may also be connected with a light metal chain which will be concealed behind the shirt when the placket is fastened.
(2) Teluk Belanga
In the state of Johor, both the design and the wearing of Baju Melayu is somewhat different from that of other areas. Here, the kain samping or kain sarung is worn below the baju rather than above it. The baju itself does not have the cekak musang collar or any placket. Instead, the opening is hemmed with stiff stitching called tulang belut (literally eel's spine) and ends with a small loop at the top of one side to fit a singular kancing (similar to the collars of Baju Kurung worn by women). This style is known as the Teluk Belanga style and was believed to be designed by Sultan Abu Bakar's aides.

(source: Wikipedia)

I like wearing my baju Melayu. I think I have 3 or 4 pairs of various colour. I haven't grown much and I don't wear them often so they last a long time. That's also why I haven't bought a new one since god knows when. I occasionally just buy a new sampin every now and again to make each raya a little different. But most of the time, I simply use my MCOBA sampin. In MCKK, we had a tradition of donning full Malay dress on days or special occasions and we are proud of it.

It's funny how foreign people see our traditional costume. I used to be proud of my baju Melayu and every Eid when I was a student at University of Salford, and even my first Raya oversea at Southend-on-sea, while I was doing my A levels. I would wear the complete baju melayu for Eid prayers and go straight to my lectures after that, in my baju Melayu. Of course I had a jacket on as a walked through Peel Park from the place of congregation prayers to my department at Telford Building but everyone could see my brightly embroidered/woven Songket sampin.

I must admit that I did get the occasional stare and second look from passer bys, but one would expect that being in a foreign country. My friends would be like "love the little skirt you wear with your outfit"....hehehe...yeah, it does look like a skirt come to think of it. Well, It's a nice skirt. Hey, superman wears his underwear on the outside so wearing a skirt over your trousers isn't so bad in comparison huh?

The Scots just wear Scottish kilts over their and we never know what's underneath. The songkok never really attracted much attention I guess because it's black and it's just head gear. Now, where ever I go on vacation overseas, I would don on my full baju Melayu and take the occasional photos with iconic backgrounds, much to the chagrin of the wife and the local passers by. Yet, I was never ashamed to wear my national dress in front of non Malaysians.

Nowadays, if you are in full Malay dress in Malaysia, you get many comments. The other day, I was in my full Malay dress complete with songkok because I was invited to one of this corporate Iftar at the Kelab Shah Alam. I decided to go to the nearby Shah Alam Stadium Ramadhan Bazaar. It is supposed to be one of the biggest Ramadhan bazaars in Selangor with choices of food galore. I was walking around looking for Apam Balik which I couldn't find, disappointed.

How come a Bazaar Ramadhan of this size not have any apam balik!? Anyway, while walking around I couldn't help but notice that quite a few people were looking at me and a couple of people gave me second looks. At one point I heard a female voice saying "Siap dengan sampin tu... macam nak pergi kahwin..." which translates to "Complete with sampin.... like he's going to get married..." (I have to blame P. Ramlee's Jamil in Madu Tiga for this).

Yes my faithful readers, this incident has reinforced the fact that the full baju melayu has now been relegated to official and religious events only. Even though civil servants wear the full baju melayu to office on Fridays (due to Friday prayers), the sight of someone wearing a full baju melayu still provokes gossip and second looks. It is no longer common place for Malays to wear baju melayu under normal everyday circumstances. It has now turned into a ceremonial costume reserved for official functions and religious activities. That's a shame as it is a very nice, and unique attire to be wearing. It's a shame also that someone wearing a full baju melayu in public gets people talking like that.

I think we should be encouraged to wear our traditional costumes to ensure their continuity and ubiquitousness in Malaysian society, just like how you can see women wearing their traditional dress taking the train in downtown Tokyo. We can make a change...I support Baju Melayu. "Baju Melayu budaya kita. Hidup Baju Melayu. Takkan Baju Melayu hilang di dunia!" (Malay Dress is our Culture, Long Live Malay Dress. The Malay Dress won't disappear in this world!).

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Baju Melayu (Malay Dress) - Berita MCOBA

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Baju Melayu is a traditional Malay outfit for men. It was created since 1234M, during the dua tiga kucing berlari era. It literally translates as 'Malay shirt or dress' and consists of two main parts. The first being the baju (long sleeved shirt) itself which has a raised stiff collar known as the cekak musang [...]

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In Malaysia, Heritage Wear Goes Minimalist and Modern

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In Malaysia, Heritage Wear Goes Minimalist and Modern

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Key points from the article:

1. Combining Culture and Fashion

Modern designers working with Muslim and global buyers are helping to evolve the modest fashion industry, which is a multibillion-dollar industry.

Traditional clothing is seen by the majority of young people as uncomfortably old-fashioned and unsuitable for year-round wear.

According to a local designer, to fit with contemporary society, modernity entails inventing new techniques for old objects.

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A standard baju kurung is sold as a set with a matching top and bottom in the same size, but that's problematic for many women. "When I was younger, that was hard to wear because my upper and lower body were different so now, our brand sells separate pieces to cater to all body sizes," Abu says. Her deconstructed take on the baju kurung is rooted in Japanese techniques - the 'Alur Kimono Kurung', for example, adds a kimono outline to the top that doubles up as an outer layer.

Sarungs are usually secured to the waist by a double knot but "as an active mother, you can't move freely wearing it," Abu says. To resolve that, she added a hidden zipper and hook to some versions while converting others into a pant and skirt combination.

"Modernity means inventing new methods for old things to fit into current culture. We always like something that can be mixed with various outfits," she says.

Tangsi Tujuh, meanwhile, is making batik [ancient Javanese prints] more accessible. "Traditionally, batik isn't sewn and isn't really wearable for most women today," Jaapar says. Tangsi's batik sarungs come in stretchable cotton with rubber waistbands to complement all female bodies. "We make it easy to wear so women can squat or walk fast while still maintaining historical batik motifs." Women's kebaya blouses are typically tight-fitted, but Tangsi also offers a longer, looser unisex version that can be worn like a cardigan.

Asian roots for global audiences

Inspired by the multiple cultures of nusantara, a term given to the maritime regions of Southeast Asia, Tangsi celebrates what it calls "the art of nusantara living" or as Jaapar put it, "how the people of nusantara lived, how they preserved customs and spirituality".

The idea of nusantara, which promotes pan-Asian connections, is evident across Tangsi's work. Its debut 2018 collection paired the baju bugis [a variant of the baju kurung from the Bugis people of Indonesia's Sulawesi island] with embroidery native to the Minangkabau community of West Sumatra in Indonesia. Elsewhere, a unisex shirt with a Nehru collar made from hemp cotton is a nod to the bygone Javanese dynasty of Mataram. "We look to educate others about the richness of our roots," Jaapar says.

Malays are the largest racial group in Muslim-majority Malaysia, followed by the Chinese, Indians and indigenous factions. But just because these labels focus on Malay elements and launch collections for Eid, the biggest holiday in the Islamic calendar, that doesn't mean they focus on Malay or Muslim customers. Designers say their work is open to anyone regardless of race or religion, with Southeast Asia being their prime market.

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In Malaysia, heritage wear goes minimalist and modern

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A standard baju kurung is sold as a set with a matching top and bottom in the same size, but that's problematic for many women. "When I was younger, that was hard to wear because my upper and lower body were different so now, our brand sells separate pieces to cater to all body sizes," Abu says.

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Popular Culture: The Influence and Implications on the Malay Traditional Clothing in Malaysia

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Popular Culture: The Influence and Implications on the Malay Traditional Clothing in Malaysia

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Key points from the journal article:

1. Malay Traditional Clothing

Malaysians are proud of their cultural heritage, which includes traditional clothing. In the twentieth century, Malay women wore kemban, which is a sarong or long cloth that covers the entire body exposing the section of the shoulder. However, Islam has brought a major change towards the design of the baju kurung which enhances a more modest and elegant look.

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Autonym: Malaysian Chinese
Origins: Malaysian Chinese, also known as Orang Cina or Kaum Cina, are descendants of Chinese who arrived between the 14th and mid-twentieth centuries. Malacca's growth as a trading center was followed by Penang and Kuala Lumpur in the history of Chinese migration to Malaya. The migrants brought products for trade as well as customs, culture, and dress styles, all of which were quickly adapted to fit the local climate.
Location: Penang, Kuala Lumpur, Johor, Perak, Selangor, Sarawak
Religions: Mahayana Buddhism, Taoism, Christianity

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The cheongsam, also known as the qipao, is a form-fitting dress that dates back to Shanghai in the 1920s. This traditional dress is a silk one-piece dress with a collar and waist clasps, either in the center or on the edge. As for the older women, they wear samfoo which is a style of ankle-length pant with a loose-fitting top with clasps in the center.

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The cheongsam, also known as a qipao, is a close-fitting dress that originated in 1920s Shanghai. It quickly became a fashion phenomenon that was adopted by movie stars and schoolgirls alike. The history of this iconic garment reflects the rise of the modern Chinese woman in the twentieth century.

The story of the cheongsam starts with the overthrow of the Qing dynasty and founding of the Republic of China in 1912. In the mid-1910s and early 1920s, Chinese intellectuals began to revolt against traditional values, calling instead for a democratic and egalitarian society based on Western standards, including the emancipation and education of women. Foot-binding, the painful practice of binding young girl's feet to prevent their growth, was outlawed.

As women were allowed into the education system starting in the 1920s, becoming teachers and university students, they shed the traditional, ornate robes of the olden days and adopted an early form of the cheongsam, which emerged from the androgynous men's garment called the changpao. Shanghai, an active and vibrant port city with a large population of foreigners, was at the cutting edge of this fashion shift.

The cheongsam of the early 1920s had a looser cut than the cheongsam of today, with long, wide sleeves. It quickly became the regular outfit of urban women in metropolitan cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. As the garment evolved, traditional silks were replaced with cheaper, contemporary textiles. In terms of design, the traditional embroidered florals remained widespread, but geometric and art deco patterns also gained popularity.

Through the 1930s and 1940s, the cheongsam continued to change, accentuating the femininity and sexuality of the urban Chinese woman. The dress became more fitted and body-hugging, with some daring designs featuring side slits that reached up to the thigh. It became customary to pair the dress with high heels. Women experimented with different fastenings, pipings, and collars, as well as short-capped sleeves, long sleeves with fur-lined cuffs, and sleeveless cheongsams.

However, shortly after the rise of the Communist government, the cheongsam, which was considered bourgeois, disappeared from everyday life in mainland China. In Shanghai, the birthplace of the cheongsam, the streets were patrolled to ensure that nobody wore fashionable clothing. The egalitarian ideology espoused by the Communists led women to adopt a tunic consisting of a jacket and trousers similar to the men's.

Nevertheless, the cheongsam's popularity continued in the British colony of Hong Kong, where it became everyday wear in the 1950s. Under the influence of European fashion, it was typically worn with high heels, a leather clutch, and white gloves. Movies such as The World of Suzie Wong (1961), as well as the rise of Hong Kong beauty pageants, cemented the garment's association with Hong Kong in the international consciousness.

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The cheongsam, also known as a qipao, is a close-fitting dress that originated in 1920s Shanghai. It quickly became a fashion phenomenon that was adopted by movie stars and schoolgirls alike. The history of this iconic garment reflects the rise of the modern Chinese woman in the twentieth century.

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Local Tailor Vows to Continue Making Endangered Malaysian-Made Cheongsam

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Local Tailor Vows to Continue Making Endangered Malaysian-Made Cheongsam

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Key points from the article:

1. Tailoring Traditional Cheongsam

According to the local tailor, since it is endangered, the Chinese community will not have any Malaysian-made traditional clothing to wear if his business stop running.

He also stated that no matter how lovely a piece of clothing is, if one does not own a brand, only few people would buy it.

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PETALING JAYA: As a fresh-faced business administration graduate in 2007, Ryan Sim was disappointed to find that job opportunities were offering salaries far below what he was hoping for.

His mother, Kong Yoon Yoon, intervened and brought him into the family business of tailor-made traditional Chinese clothing.

Now the face of Emerald Brilliant's second-generation, Sim bears the responsibility of preserving the trade and traditions.

"A lot of my customers tell me, 'Don't give up, because if you do, there will be no more local cheongsam.'

"If I don't continue running this business, the Chinese community won't have any Malaysian-made traditional clothing to wear."

The youngest of four sons, Sim had to carry on the 47-year-old family business as his brothers had their own careers.

The business is still very much a family affair, however, as Sim's wife and one of his sisters-in-law help Kong with designing work.

Looking back, Emerald Brilliant has come a long way from its humble beginnings in Cheras Yulek, Kuala Lumpur, in 1972.

Its headquarters ultimately moved to Petaling Jaya, and the company now has several outlets in prominent shopping malls such as 1Utama and Mid Valley Megamall.

Having started as a fashion, casual wear and cheongsam shop, it was only in 1995 that Kong, a graduate of a local designer school, decided to focus on tailoring traditional cheongsam.

It was a risky move and yet a possible niche opportunity, as no one else was selling specialised cheongsam at the time.

And when FMT visited, it certainly didn't look like business is slowing down, as the store was hustling and bustling to complete orders in time for the Chinese New Year season. They were so busy in fact that Kong was too rushed to be interviewed.

Sim said orders for the lunar new year came in as early as the first week of November, adding that they have received commissions from customers in countries such as Indonesia, Australia and even America.

It's taken time for him to embrace the business. "At first I wasn't really interested and had no clue about the trade," he admitted. "I've been here for 13 years now and slowly, with time, it became okay.

"Because you need to work for your future, you need money so you must work. It's not really about being interested," he explained.

With a new generation taking the helm comes a new set of challenges to tackle. Sim acknowledged that one of the bigger struggles he faces is finding staff to keep the shops running.

He said there is a dependence on foreign workers in the industry, although it's not for a lack of willingness to employ locals.

Locals are either uninterested in working in the industry or cannot give a long-term commitment to the job. The only Malaysians who are willing to work are older aunties, some of whom work from home.

"Nowadays even foreign workers are not cheap. Some 'experts' earn more than RM100 a day," he said, lamenting how there are fewer and fewer tailors available now.

He has also been unable to hire new foreign workers, following the government's decision last year to ban foreigners from working as textile shop assistants.

The nature of the trade is shifting, Sim said, and the current business environment requires the company to build its brand to survive.

"If there's no good branding, it's wasting time. So it's branding, followed by skill and quality.

"No matter how beautiful a piece of clothing you make, if you have no brand not many people will buy your items."

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Local tailor vows to continue making endangered Malaysian-made cheongsam

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PETALING JAYA: As a fresh-faced business administration graduate in 2007, Ryan Sim was disappointed to find that job opportunities were offering salaries far below what he was hoping for. His mother, Kong Yoon Yoon, intervened and brought him into the family business of tailor-made traditional Chinese clothing.

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These Malaysian Brands Give A Modern Twist To Chinese New Year 2020 Fashion

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These Malaysian Brands Give A Modern Twist To Chinese New Year 2020 Fashion

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Photo: Brian Khoo

By Aina Izzah

Go the bold and contemporary route this Lunar New Year

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Photo: Brian Khoo

Photo: Brian Khoo

Giving us the sensual aesthetic ala Wong Kar-Wai's In The Mood For Love, the brand's first-ever Lunar New Year collection reimagines the traditional cheongsam with refined glamour.
See also: Luxury Watches: The Year Of The Metal Rat Edition

The familiar elements of the qipao and cheongsam are elevated with puffed sleeves, geometric prints and French culottes.

Photo: Keith Kee

Photo: Keith Kee

The celebrated couturier and cheongsam designer goes for floral patterns for this sexy, eclectic collection designed with the principles of feng shui in mind.
ICYMI: Have A Chic Chinese New Year 2020 With Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Fendi & More

The edgy midriff top with brocade silhouette make a surprisingly fine pairing with the traditional mandarin collar and knotted buttons.

Although not a collection designed specifically for the festive season, the Peranakan-inspired jacquard bolero jackets and samfu tops with batik motifs from Cruise 2020 feel apt for the Lunar New Year.
See also: Beauty Launches By Lancome, MAC Cosmetics & More Inspired By Chinese New Year 2020

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These Malaysian Brands Give A Modern Twist To Chinese New Year 2020 Fashion

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By Aina Izzah Go the bold and contemporary route this Lunar New Year Sign up for our newsletters to get all our top stories delivered. You've Successfully Subscribed Giving us the sensual aesthetic ala Wong Kar-Wai's In The Mood For Love, the brand's first-ever Lunar New Year collection reimagines the traditional cheongsam with refined glamour.

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A tang suit is a style of floral jacket with a collar and a knot at the belly button. It was named after the Tang Empire by Chinese people living in other countries. Although the majority of Malaysian Chinese population does not dress in typical Chinese attire, they are seen in traditional attire during festivals, especially the Chinese New Year.

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Tang Suit is one of Chinese traditional clothing. It was originated from Manchu clothing at the end of Qing Dynasty.

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Autonym: Malaysian Indian
Origins: The British brought in laborers from their other colony, India, to help with the production of plantations, mining, and building projects in Malaysia. The majority of Indians in Malaysia are from Tamil Nadu and Kerala, and they speak Tamil, Malayalam, as well as Telugu and Hindi.
Location: Selangor, Negeri Sembilan, Kuala Lumpur, Johor, Perak, Penang, Kedah
Religions: Hinduism, Christianity, Islam, Buddhism, Sikhism

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The sari, one of the oldest types of Indian clothing, is a traditional costume in Nepal, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, and Bangladesh that has been kept alive for over 5,000 years. In Malaysia, the majority of Indian women wear sarees and blouses. Sari is a six-yard piece of fabric wrapped around the body in the shape of a skirt with pleats in the middle, with a portion of the same cloth covering one shoulder and hanging below the knees.

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Kancheevaram Weaves by ZOBHA (Photo: Khairul Imran)

By Koyyi Chin

With the Deepavali celebrations just around the corner, we shine a light on one of India's most historically and culturally significant garments

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Growing up in Malaysia means being surrounded by a diverse society made up of various ethnicities as well as cultures that have existed many millennia ago; from traditional customs, beliefs and languages to food and dress, these are but a few aspects of our heritage that we've retained.

In fact, despite our differences, not only have we managed to maintain ancestries unique to our own cultures, we celebrate them with ethnicities other than our own, even during the years prior to our nation's independence in 1957.
Read also: Deepavali 2020: 7 Bollywood Movies To Watch On Netflix

The sari, one of the oldest forms of Indian clothing, is one such ancestral artefact that has been maintained over 5,000 years and is a traditional costume in Nepal, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Derived from ' sati', which is the Sanskrit word for 'strip of cloth', accounts of this handloom marvel date as far back as the Indus Valley civilisation (3200-2000 BC).

Though modern designs utilise all sorts of fabrics, most sarees are typically made from chiffon, silk, cotton and silk brocade. Much like the many variations of the Indian language itself, the drape of a sari can differ according to present-day trends, personal taste, regional practices and can be worn in over 100 ways as well.
ICYMI: Celebrate The Festival Of Lights With These Sweet And Savoury Diwali Snacks

Photo: Srinivas JD/Unsplash

Story continues below

Traditionally, the sari is part of a three-piece ensemble and was known as the 'sattika', which in early Sanskrit literature described women's attire. It comprises the Antriya (the lower garment), the Uttariya (the veil that's worn over the shoulder or head), as well as the Stanapatta (a chest band). However, the sari we recognise today has since then evolved; paired with the 'choli', a fitting blouse that bares one's midriff, it can be found wrapped around ankle-to-floor length skirts, bellowing pants, slim fit trousers and even jeans.

Though the more extravagant ones are worn during special occasions, this unique garment can also be used as daily, practical wear. In some cases, they are precious family heirlooms passed on from mother to daughter, be it on her wedding day or her coming-of-age ceremony.
Read also: Why These Diwali Traditions By Dato' Sri Bernard Chandran & Family Will Never Go Out Of Style

Kancheevaram Weaves by ZOBHA (Photo: Khairul Imran)

Handwoven sari is a laborious process that can take days, weeks and even months to complete. Depending on how intricate the textile design is, it starts from collecting materials, spinning and dyeing the yarn, then weaving it to complete yards of fabric. The design of the sari can also serve as regional identifiers, such as the Pochampally ikat sari, which involves transfers coloured patterns onto the threads before weaving them together.

Other states like Kanchipuram use pure mulberry silk as well as zaris, the latter being silk thread plaited with thin strands of precious metals like gold, silver and copper, are used for embroidery or are woven into the fabric itself.

Pavithra Varathan (Photo: Khairul Imran)

From a designer's point of view, I think that sari allows a woman to maintain her modesty but still lets her to show off her natural. feminine curves.

In fact, as opposed to the conventional sari we purchase online for as low as a two-digit price tag, authentic saris are usually more expensive, and for good reason.

"There's a reason why it comes with a price tag," says Pavithra Varathan, a sari designer who has made frequent trips herself to India and is the founder of Kancheevaram Weaves by ZOBHA. "It's a handloom sari made of 100 per cent mulberry silk and zaris, which are materials that are already difficult to procure by themselves. Think about it, a weaver's salary back in India is only RM35 a day, and they spend a minimum of eight days working on that sari-it's an art form that takes hours to do! So do you honestly think that we can compare the quality and the pricing of a machine-made sari to that of an artisanal sari?"

Pavithra, whose personal collection included her grandmother's 50 to 60-year-old saris, adds that proper silk saris were an investment that held sentimental value, given how well her saris were kept. "For me, the reason why I wear saris is because I find that they flatter me, and they give me what no other dress can provide, which is both comfort as well as elegance. And from a designer's point of view, I think that saris allow a woman to maintain her modesty but still lets her to show off her natural. feminine curves. I want to share that experience with other women as well, most of all my daughter, who when she comes of age will have my saris, or even my mother's own saris!"
Throwback: Tatlergram: All The Festive Feels Of Deepavali 2019

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Fashion Deepavali 2020 Celebration Saree Pride Of Malaysia Deepavali 2020

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Deepavali 2020: What To Know About The Sari

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By Koyyi Chin With the Deepavali celebrations just around the corner, we shine a light on one of India's most historically and culturally significant garments Sign up for our newsletters to get all our top stories delivered.

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The Saree: It's Traditional Attire, and Respectable

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The Saree: It's Traditional Attire, and Respectable

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Key points from the article:

1. Modest Measurement

A local tailor urges for people to request for modest measurement since it is unsuitable to wear a saree that has a low back to a place of worship. They also stressed that the saree is a traditional attire, hence; it should be respectable.

2. Poor Societal Behavior

Sarees with the midriff and back exposed worn by Indian women should be considered respectable traditional wear rather than sexy outfits.

An Instagram curator stated that the saree is one of the oldest unstitched garments still in use today, and it is famous due to its versatility. Therefore, the lack of comprehension and bad societal behavior were not due to the clothing.

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KUALA LUMPUR: Sarees worn by Indian women with the midriff and back exposed should be viewed as respectable traditional attire and not sexy outfits.

Hindu Sangam Religious Advisory Board member Dr K. Thilagawathi said the symbolism of Indian femininity has evolved over the years and the slight exposure of the midriff and back was to keep the skin cooler.

"The pleats enable the wearer to walk and move comfortably," she said, when commenting on the saree flurry by a group that threatened to track down women "dressed inappropriately" during Thaipusam and spray paint their bodies.

Dr Thilagawathi said the saree catered to the tropical climate and was worn in a manner that exposed certain parts of the body.

She urged women to dress appropriately and be mindful of their safety and not instigate those who lacked values.

Sarees and Stories blog and Instagram curator Sumitra Selvaraj, who writes daily on sarees, said the attire was not at fault for the lack of understanding and poor societal behaviour.

"The saree is one of the oldest surviving unstitched garments, which is still popular today because of its versatility.

"Although it is tied closely to Indian heritage, it is still just a piece of clothing.

"How you behave and treat people around you speaks volumes about your character; that should be the focus and not the type of clothing that you wear.

"I wear a saree to work every day at a television studio, and then afterwards may go grocery shopping or catch a movie or dine out.

"No one comes up to me and says you should not be wearing a saree or a certain type of blouse here," said Sumitra.

Lawyer Kunjari Sambanthan said: "There is no law to say that if you dress a certain way you will be denied entry into the temple but there is always appropriate dressing for certain occasions.

"Still, we see boys dressed in Bermuda shorts at the temple, so it isn't just girls who need to be decorously dressed.

"As a community, we can and should wear the appropriate attire at the different houses of worship out of respect," she said.

A tailor from Subang Jaya, N. Amutha, said saree blouse trends this year were "boat neck" and three-quarter sleeves and none of her clients requested for low backs.

"This year, saree blouse designs have most of the back covered. I think it is appropriate and modest," she said.

A tailor from Bangsar said a modest measurement would be about eight inches from the top of the back to the midpoint of the back.

The tailor, who did not want to be named, said some clients did request for very low backs but she added that it was not appropriate when worn to the temple.

"Sometimes the girls request for just an inch of strap at the back, and I think this is unsuitable.

"I personally feel that if you are going to a place of worship, you should dress modestly," she said.

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The saree: It's traditional attire, and respectable

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KUALA LUMPUR: Sarees worn by Indian women with the midriff and back exposed should be viewed as respectable traditional attire and not sexy outfits. Hindu Sangam Religious Advisory Board member Dr K. Thilagawathi said the symbolism of Indian femininity has evolved over the years and the slight exposure of the midriff and back was to keep the skin cooler.

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How To Drape a Sari: No. 1 Venukagundaram Drape - Andhra Pradesh, India

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Detailed Description of the Kurta-Pyjama

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Detailed Description of the Kurta-Pyjama

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In Malaysia, Indian men dress in kurta-pyjamas, dhoti-kurtas, or lungi-kurtas. Usually, a kurta is a knee-length shirt. Sherwani is another common kurta variant, which is worn at weddings and other festivals.

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All boys, I'm convinced, dread going to weddings. But I had a particular reason to loathe those formal family affairs: I had to dress up in a kurta.

The kurta is a traditional Indian garment whose sometimes ornate, sometimes plain cotton fabric hangs down to the lower thighs. For young Ashwin, it combined the two most dangerous elements to the adolescent male psyche: Not only did it look different, it looked vaguely feminine.

Now, though, I've grown older and wiser. I look forward to weddings, and I really love wearing a kurta. It's cool as hell, from both ventilation and style perspectives. Even better, it makes my family happy to see me in one, and it also looks like something Neo would wear on his day off. (Actually, Keanu Reeves did wear one when his band, Dogstar, won an Indian television award.)

Keanu and his Dogstar bandmates dressed in their best kurta-pyjamas at an awards show in India from KeanuBeingAwesome

In truth, the kurta - or kurta pyjama - isn't really feminine or masculine. It's rather androgynous. To me, its silhouette looks like the men's and women's bathroom signs superimposed.

Funny enough, too, as I've come to appreciate the kurta (and not be such a coward), I've experienced a type of Baader-Meinhof effect. The kurta is everywhere. Everything is a kurta.

Pop Culture's Kurta Takeover

Last year, comedian Hannibal Buress wore some kurta-like outfits at his African tour dates. First, in Kenya, he rocked a kurta-looking shirt, then, in Nigeria, an outfit that more closely resembled the full kurta pyjama.

Comedy Life: @hannibalburess holding it down in Lagos, Nigeria 🇳🇬 pic.twitter.com/8JNQ6KU6xn

- Comedy Hype (@ComedyHype_) December 11, 2018

Meanwhile, the captain of the Nigerian national soccer team, Mikel Obi, posted a photo in a kurta-like outfit before heading to Russia for the 2018 FIFA World Cup.

The Black Panther, in traditional Wakandan dress (and a reminder that Wakanda is not a real place), also wears a kurta-type shirt.

Nice Kurta pic.twitter.com/1Nl92pLkyZ

- Inbaraj (@Inbarajs) February 18, 2018

Honestly, these days, it seems like the kurta follows me wherever I look. In the recent Netflix original movie Always Be My Maybe, for example, actor Daniel Dae Kim is seen briefly wearing a luxurious kurta. And NFL superstar Odell Beckham Jr. rocked a kurta (with a sherwani coat) in the August 2019 cover story for .

And so, I had to find out more. Where did it come from, and why was pop culture suddenly so obsessed with it?

A Short History of a Long Garment

The kurta's actual origin is difficult to pin down, but the threads go back several centuries on the Eastern hemisphere. When it comes to this style, let me admit there's an Indo-centric bias at play, and it's my fault. Just as an American might classify shawarma as a type of sandwich, the kurta is my first frame of reference for the style. That is to say, kurta- ish clothing has been popular on multiple continents throughout history. In Africa alone, there are flow-y garments like the dashiki, boubou and agbada, whose sartorial histories go back centuries.

This clothing served as "an antidote to the Western impression," explains Bettina Ng'weno , associate professor of cultural anthrop ology at the University of California, Davis. They represented opposition to the shirts and suits - a "resistance to being taken up by the colonial government."

Pay attention, there's a dragon in Chicago.

✌🏿 https://t.co/mNAhi4lQUj

Shout out to my Pops for the Dashiki, straight from Liberia ! pic.twitter.com/XCMQlHIT49

- ♔Vagabond Maurice (@VagabondMaurice) May 6, 2019

Ng'weno rattles off even more kurta-like clothing: "The Mao suit (in China), the Nehru suit (in India), the kaunda suit in Eastern Africa (named after the former president of Zambia, Kenneth Kaunda)," and a Western African "suit of relatively boring color" with short collars, buttons and a kurta-like style.

Did one style of dress influence the others? Or were these styles discovered independently in multiple places, like calculus? Trade between India and Africa goes back to the 13th century and possibly even further. So finding the exact origin of the kurta is like trying to isolate two ocean waves after they've collided.

PHOENIX GRADUATING CLASS THANKSGIVING :

The all-black Maybach but I'm not a racist,
My Agbada whiter than Katy Perry's faces pic.twitter.com/QYiyfa1XAk

- ModaFKN BeasT🦍⚡ (@FrazzerThe_) May 5, 2019

Here, There and Everywhere

For the West, however, the question is much easier to answer. It all began when a British indie rock band called the Beatles hit up Rishikesh, India, in the late 1960s. The photographer Paul Saltzman, recovering from a breakup, traveled to the ashram in 1968, where he found the Fab Four (and Mia Farrow, for some reason) seeking " revelatory answers to the major questions of life and death." The band wore kurtas, and the photographer did too.

Saltzman absolutely loved the kurta, and he's worn it ever since. In an email, he called the kurta "the singular most comfy clothes ever!!! Like wearing nothing but being clothed." (That's a fair description.) He tells me he owns about a dozen and he always wears one to Indian weddings.

The Kurta, Commoditized

Like any "ethnic" thing that becomes cool to white people, you can find the kurta at a store for basic bros near you. Recently, I spotted a cheap, plain-looking kurta, sold as a beach cover-up, for $118 at J.Crew; there's also a $265 "kurta-inspired" piece of beachwear at Nordstrom.

Is this cultural appropriation? And why did it make me so mad? (It's not an , after all.) Frankly, seeing this stuff hurts. For me, Indian culture wasn't always seen as "cool," and if you never got harassed for it, you shouldn't get to use it as a beach accessory.

Ng'weno says "there's no clear answer" to the cultural-appropriation question that pops up over and over again, like when Kendall Jenner tries cornrows. The real question, she says, is "what damage does it do?" Real cultural appropriation is when people want the art but not the culture that goes with it - or, worse, the people who go with the culture, she explains. "Ethnic is chic when it's not combined with the people." This is "an important complaint," Ng'weno explains. "It's about marking the ways that discrimination works."

Still, she adds, "I don't think any style comes from nowhere." She compares clothing like this to tamarind, a fruit I know from Indian cooking but which actually came from East Africa, and she asks if its origin needs to be acknowledged every time we cook with it.

Damn, I feel seen. But it's eye-opening, because as I start to see the kurta's influence bleed into modern American style more and more, I honestly don't hate it.

Case in point...

That Really Long Shirt You See Everywhere

Walking home most days, I see a kurta-inspired shape in Manhattan's trendy SoHo neighborhood: the long-line tee. It's a dress-like T-shirt with a fitted top and a flowing, exaggerated hemline, itself a slim-fit version of the XXXL tall tee of the later aughts. Hypebeasts often pair it with skinny jeans, an outfit mainstreamed by stylish contrarian Kanye West. Just look at this long-ass shirt available at Asos and tell me it's not a kurta by another name.

Where have you seen this before? Likely on comedian Dave Chappelle, who walks through a desert in a long-line tee and leather pants in the trailer for his third Netflix special, Sticks and Stones.

The silhouette may be similar to a kurta, but I'm still working on wearing a "real" kurta on the street here. I worry I might look like a viral marketing prop for turmeric lattes marketed to a group of white tourists outside of Kate Spade.

I know that's unfair, but in the end, it all comes back to my deep-seated fear of standing out. In the story of every first-generation American immigrant, there's an account of being embarrassed by their traditional ancestral clothing; it's usually in the same chapter as bringing "smelly" food to school. And just as I regret not taking some chicken curry to school to flex on my pale classmates whose faces were stained with SpaghettiOs, I wish I'd embraced this sartorial part of my heritage long ago.

It's too late for me to capitalize on my culture with a food truck, but I can at least figure out how to wear a kurta with pride.

Recommended Reading

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The Kurta Is Everywhere, and Everything Is a Kurta

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All boys, I'm convinced, dread going to weddings. But I had a particular reason to loathe those formal family affairs: I had to dress up in a kurta. The kurta is a traditional Indian garment whose sometimes ornate, sometimes plain cotton fabric hangs down to the lower thighs.

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Pink Cyan and Purple Punctuation Straightforward Education Portrait Poster (1)

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# data[].attributes.body
Name: Nik Khalissa Iman binti Nik Abdullah
Student ID: 2021352323
Name of Lecturer: S. Suchithra K. Sankaran
Date of Submission: 2nd May 2021

# data[].attributes.body
Traditional clothing has been a part of our lives since we were born into this country that is Malaysia. Wearing traditional clothing reflects our cultural identity and can be seen as a way of expressing cultural awareness.

With that in mind, I decided to create an e-portfolio focusing on the beautiful and intricate design on the traditional clothing of 5 different cultures. Therefore, we will be discussing on the background and how each traditional clothing came to be.