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9) LIST KEY HEALTH AND SAFETY ISSUES LIKELY TO ARISE IN MAKING YOUR POCKET

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9) LIST KEY HEALTH AND SAFETY ISSUES LIKELY TO ARISE IN MAKING YOUR POCKET

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When making a pocket you are using a combination of machine and manual techniques. Some of the health and safety issues include:

- upholding proper posture
- jabbing yourself with a needle
- burning yourself with the iron or steam from the boiler
- using the sewing machine

These issues, respectively may be prevented by:
- (see answer to question 8)
- wearing a thimble
- keeping your fingers/hands well away from the soleplate of the iron and the boiler
- keeping fingers well away from the needle plate and any other moving parts of the machine / making sure not to use a machine that seems faulty / turning off your machine whilst not working at it

All of the these methods require absolute attention to reduce any injury due to human error.

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Tailor's traditionally sit crossed legged while working to keep their work within close enough proximity of their eyes. By sitting cross legged you are able to rest your work across your leg and knee making it adjustable and comfortable as much of the stitching is around curved or small areas.

However, it is essential to move around frequently to distribute strain from sitting.

If you are working at a machine you must make sure to be using an appropriate chair that is positioned at the correct height for you to work comfortably. I.e. so that your legs are not squashed underneath the table and your eye sight is not strained.

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7) WHAT SIZE NEEDLE DO YOU USE TO PERFORM A FELLING STITCH AND WHERE IS IT USED ON A GARMENT?

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7) WHAT SIZE NEEDLE DO YOU USE TO PERFORM A FELLING STITCH AND WHERE IS IT USED ON A GARMENT?

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For this specific type of hand-stitch you would use a size 7 needle.

Felling stitch is found when attaching the folded edge of the lining to the garment's hem or facing; such as at the waist on trousers or inside a jacket or waistcoat.

Below is a video of how to do felling stitch:

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The Fell Stitch is great for attaching a lining to a garment or for applique. It's stronger than the slip stitch and very easy to do. Written detailed instructions can be found at TheDailySew.com http://bit.ly/2qkSypo

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For any permanent stitches you would use beeswax to wax your cotton or polyester thread. Cut your thread to length and pass over the beeswax 3-4 times before ironing off the excess by placing the thread between a protective piece of cloth (calico).

See video below:

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The Brass & Mortar Uniform Depot and Tailoring Shop

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This video lesson demonstrates the process of waxing sewing thread in preparation for hand-sewing a tailored garment. Become my patron and help me create more tutorial videos! http://www.patreon.com/brassandmortar/

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Inlay is extra fabric additional to the seam allowance that is in some parts left within a constructed garment. Inlays allow for any future alterations that the client may need for example if the client's body shape were to change, then the garment may be more easily adjusted. It is typical to find inlays in adolescent's clothing as they rapidly grow.

Not all inlays are left in after final fittings as some seams may become too bulky and difficult to press.

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2) HOW AND WHERE IS GIMP THREAD USED ON A GARMENT?

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2) HOW AND WHERE IS GIMP THREAD USED ON A GARMENT?

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Gimp thread is used when constructing hand sewn button holes in order to strengthen and neaten the button hole. It is a strong cord with wire inside. As you stitch the button hole your thread passes over the positioned gimp cord adding structure.

See the video below for method:

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5) NAME THE PRE WAXED HAND SEWING THREAD USED BY TAILORS. WHY IS THIS USED IN TAILORING?

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5) NAME THE PRE WAXED HAND SEWING THREAD USED BY TAILORS. WHY IS THIS USED IN TAILORING?

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Pre waxed thread is called silk skeins. Silk is a strong thread and when waxed it becomes even more durable and resistant to moisture. By using pre waxed thread, tailors save copious amounts of time by not having to do this method by hand.

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The silk skein is an example how tailoring supplies have changed over the years. A knot of silk like this one is enough to sew the finishing stitches on a handcrafted coat. The knot is untied to a loop which is then cut to create individual strands of silk, each when Coates with bees wax forms a sewing thread of ideal length and strength.

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3) LIST HAND-STITCHING TECHNIQUES USED IN THE MAKING OF A WELT POCKET (in making order)

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3) LIST HAND-STITCHING TECHNIQUES USED IN THE MAKING OF A WELT POCKET (in making order)

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- Even-baste the linen to the fabric / once welt Ian folded
- Raw-edge felling stitch wrong side, along long folded section of welt
- Felling stitch wrong side, diagonally folded edges of welt
- Side stitch right side, top edge of welt
- Over caste wrong side, seams once pressed to secure them
- Felling and raw edge felling pocket bag to welt
- Prick stitch right side, welt into place

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Point pressers are used for pressing narrow, hard to reach areas of collars, belts, cuffs, corners, points, etc.