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Laptop, desktop, or tablet?

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Created in partnership with CNET

Desktop, laptop, tablet or something in between?
The reality
The sheer number of technologies available to small businesses can be overwhelming.

Even if you have dedicated IT staff, choosing the right mix of products impacts productivity and influences your bottom line.

Technology is the biggest expense faced by small and midsize businesses. You need technology that can handle the operations and keep employees running at full throttle.

How do you decide what your team needs? Where do you start?
Options, options, options. . .
It's no longer necessary to find a single, one-size-fits-all solution.

Most workers are relatively savvy and technology is increasingly affordable, which gives you many options.

There are several computer categories:

Desktop PCs

Desktop-replacement laptops

Thin and light laptops

Netbooks

Based on employee work patterns, your business might require a combination of the above devices. A few good questions to consider when purchasing are:

Do my employees need both a desktop and a tablet or just a laptop?

Are there occasions when just a tablet is enough?

Will we even need a desktop?

Basic Productivity
These professionals need a computer that allows them to do basic duties such as send emails, browse the Web, and create documents using Microsoft® Office. A desktop, such as the Dell Vostro™ line with 2-4GB of RAM and a dual-core processor will do the trick.

Although more expensive, the Vostro family of laptops provides portability should your employee not be chained to a desk all day.

Road Warrior
Meeting customers in person is sometimes better than a conference call. Road warriors have a few options:

For basic productivity, rugged netbooks such as the Latitude™ 2120 or the tablet/netbook hybrid Inspiron™ duo and Latitude 6400 XFRs are good choices.

Mobile employees that need more speed and memory can look to the affordable, ultralight Vostro V131 or the snappy Vostro 3350 with the latest generation Intel® Core™ processors.

The Latitude line is lightweight and offers options such as antiglare screens, quad-core processors, and advanced service and support.

Another option would be using a powerful desktop computer in the office but staying connected with a Streak smartphone when on the road. The Streak 7 provides long battery life, access to documents, and easy email and social media interfaces.

Engineers, designers, executives and marketing pros who need fast processors, advanced graphics, and high-resolution displays fall into the power-user category.

Several Dell solutions can fill the bill:

If mobility isn't required, a Dell OptiPlex™ desktop is the most cost-effective way to get the horsepower you need.

If you travel or telecommute an inexpensive netbook or laptop from Dell Vostro or Inspiron lines is a good choice.

When both power and portability are a must check out:

Inspiron family for high value and high performance.

Inspiron XPS for the highest performance available.

Latitude family of laptops with advanced support options and maximum manageability for businesses with in-house IT staff.

Dell understands how complex and varied businesses can be, which is why we strive to address your unique need - fill every niche, meet every need and address every vertical. We offer solutions for mobile power users and basic desktops for office productivity - across a range of price points and options - allowing everyone to reach peak productivity.

How simple.
Learn More About Dell Desktops
Learn More About Dell Laptops
Learn More About Dell Tablets

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Created in partnership with CNET Desktop, laptop, tablet or something in between? The reality The sheer number of technologies available to small businesses can be overwhelming. Even if you have dedicated IT staff, choosing the right mix of products impacts productivity and influences your bottom line.

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Choosing between a desktop, tablet, or laptop?

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Choosing between a desktop, tablet, or laptop?

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CLOSE

Spring has sprung, so you might be itching for a tech refresh.

Question is, what should you buy?

If it's a computer you need - er, want - there's no shortage of form factors to choose from. As you probably know, the three main types are laptops, desktops and tablets - but it can be confusing as there are hybrids, too, such as "2-in-1" laptops that let you remove the screen to use like a tablet, along with portable "all-in-one" desktops with a similar detachable feature.

That said, the following are some obvious - and perhaps not so obvious - advantages and disadvantages for each the main form factors.
TABLETS
Unlike a conventional laptop's keyboard and trackpad, tablets are very easy to use because you navigate through all your content by simply tapping, swiping, flicking and pinching your fingertips. You can also use your voice to access info. Touch and voice are very natural ways to interface with devices.

Because they're thin and light, tablets are more portable than laptops, plus they turn on right away, like a smartphone; therefore, there's no waiting to boot up the operating system. An average laptop's battery lasts five or six hours; a tablet is usually twice as long at 10 to 12 hours.

Some tablets offer cellular connectivity along with Wi-Fi, which isn't as easy to find in a laptop. Tablets have GPS, so they're ideal for navigation and location-based services, and many models have dual cameras.

Finally, some tasks are simply more conducive on a tablet, such as reading e-books, digital magazines and newspapers.

Tablet prices start at $49, which makes it the least expensive computer you can buy, but high-end ones could cost upwards of $799 if you want one with a ton of storage and cellular connectivity.

The Dell XPS 13 Non-Touch 13-inch notebook computer. (Photo: Dell)
LAPTOPS
Though tablets offer numerous advantages over laptops, they can't compete in other areas.

Perhaps most importantly - especially for those who do a lot of typing - a physical keyboard is more comfortable, accurate and fast than a tablet's "virtual" (on-screen) keyboard. Students who type up a lot of essays, workers who write lengthy documents and heavy e-mail users might prefer a laptop for this reason - though there are optional keyboard accessories for tablets, too.

A laptop gives you more screen real estate to work with your programs and multitask between them. Most laptops are 14 or 15 inches, which is much bigger than a 7- to 10-inch tablet. Watching a movie or playing a game is better on a bigger screen, which delivers a more immersive experience.

A few other considerations in favor of laptops: They tend to have 10 times the storage (at least 320GB hard drive compared with an average of 32GB of Flash memory); laptops have USB and SD card ports to easily get files on and off the computer (only a couple of tablets do, by comparison); and a laptop's clamshell design helps protect the screen when not in use.

As for price, laptops typically start at $199 for a Windows 8 machine - but don't expect decent power until you pay $399 to start - while a MacBook Air starts at $899 for an 11-inch model. A beefier MacBook Pro will set you back at least $1,099. Those on a tight budget might consider a Chromebook, as these Google-powered laptops start at just $129.

HP's All-in-one desktop computer. (Photo: Hewlett-Packard)
DESKTOPS
Though not as popular as they once were, desktop computers are still around - and they do offer some advantages to laptops and tablets.

Since they're designed for stationary use - that is, staying in one spot in the home or office - desktops are less prone to damage. After all, they aren't being dropped or banged in a backpack or large purse like a laptop or tablet would. They're also less likely to be stolen as they're always in one place.

Desktop computers have larger screens than a laptop or tablet - up to 30 inches in some cases - so they're better for entertainment lovers (movies, computer games) and more ideal for multitasking as you can have multiple windows open at the same time. Or you can easily add a second monitor. Perhaps influenced by the tablet craze, many desktops (and laptops) offer a touchscreen display, along with a keyboard and mouse (trackpad on a laptop).

Computer users who like to tinker prefer a desktop as they're more "modular" - it's much easier to upgrade components, such as a video card, hard drive or solid state drive (SSD) and system memory (RAM), on a tower-based desktop than a laptop. Note: Components on many "all-in-one" desktops aren't that easy to change as they're packed in behind the monitor.

Parents with young kids might consider a desktop in a central location in the home - such as a kitchen, family room or any other highly trafficked area - so Mom and Dad can keep an eye on where children go online and with whom they're communicating.

Windows-based desktops typically start at $299 for an entry-level machine, or about $399 for a desktop with monitor. Most prices hover from $599 to $899, but you could spend many thousands on a high-end gaming rig. An "all-in-one" iMac starts at $1,099 for a 21.5-inch model.
Follow Marc on Twitter: @marc_saltzman. E-mail him at techcomments@usatoday.com
Read or Share this story: http://usat.ly/1HdMSuZ

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Choosing between tablet, desktop or laptop

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CLOSE Spring has sprung, so you might be itching for a tech refresh. Question is, what should you buy? If it's a computer you need - er, want - there's no shortage of form factors to choose from.

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Buying a computer is no easy task, and with the cost of many of the machines out on the market today, you want to make sure you're making the right purchase so you don't blow your money on something that stops meeting your demands within a year. Not all machines are created equal, and unless you're pretty familiar with computer hardware, you might have a hard time determining just how unequal they are. Of course, not all computer users' needs are equal, so you might not need certain things included in a computer, especially not if those features are pushing up the price.

This guide should help you get a better understanding of what all the components of the computer will mean for you and make it easier to decide what you want, need, and which elements to prioritize. That way, you'll be better equipped to get the right computer for you, and to avoid spending any more money than you must.

1. Desktop or laptop?

This is probably one of the simplest choices to make, and one that can have a big impact on the overall cost of your computer, including expenses that might not come right at the time of the purchase. In general, if a laptop and desktop are boasting all of the same performance specs, the desktop will be cheaper. It might not make sense, since it's a bigger piece of hardware, but the ability to cram a lot of components into a small space and the need for a battery is what ups the price of the laptop - notice the premium paid for Apple's thinner devices.

If you plan on having a steady workstation and don't need to run around with your for-all-purposes device, consider getting a desktop and saving yourself some money, or spending what your budget allows and getting a computer with higher specs. An added benefit of a desktop is that it's easier to keep cool, since there is more room for powerful fans, which will help the machine have a longer lifetime and maintain optimum performance levels. Additionally, it's easier to change out parts and upgrade components in a desktop, which will keep your machine from falling behind the constantly increasing demands of the digital world.

If you often need your computer on the go, the choice is simple: laptop. If your need for portability is only occasional and you don't need much more than a browser or word processor, you may be able to find a cheap tablet or netbook to do the job, and could potentially afford it with the money you save by getting a desktop as your primary computer. Keep in mind that you'll still have to buy a monitor if one doesn't come as a bundle with the desktop.

(Note on laptop screens: If you're planning to use your laptop for mostly work, consider a matte screen, which will have less glare and be easier on the eyes. If your laptop will be a media device, a normal glossy LCD screen should do the job.)

2. Know the processor and what it means

The simplest way to explain the processor is that it's the brain of the machine. If you want a fast computer that boots up programs in a flash, completes tasks as soon as you start them, and doesn't keep you waiting, then you want the strongest processor available - and who doesn't? You just have to know what you're looking at when you see a processor's details.

Basic: the short and simple of processors is in the number of cores and the speed (labeled in GHz or Gigahertz) of the processor. The speed of the chip will tell you how much data it can process in how much time, so the bigger the number, the better. The number of cores functions as a multiplier, as the processor is actually a stack of cores that each run at the listed speed (e.g. a single-core 2GHz processor is a lot slower than a four-core 2GHz processor).

Multiple cores can also help with multi-tasking, as each can be working on different tasks. If you don't use a lot of programs at the same time, you may be content with just one or two cores and don't need to fork out the extra cash to snag a few more. Make sure to ask how many cores are on the chip and what the clock speed is. Two computers might both say they have an Intel i5 chip, but the number of models that go into the group are many, and their speeds and core counts can be leagues apart.

Advanced: If you want to get into really nitty-gritty bits of the processor, check out the benchmark tests at CPUBenchmark. You can compare a number of different CPUs to see if you're getting the best one, and even see if you're getting the best for your money. Also, check out the L1, L2, and L3 cache sizes - these are the closest and fastest memory spaces to the CPU and the bigger they are, the better. You can also see how many threads the core has - again, the more, the merrier.

3. RAM isn't just a type of goat

Just as the number of processor cores in a computer affects its speed and ability to multitask, the amount of Random Access Memory, or RAM, in a computer can affect just how much multitasking it can handle and how fast it will be. RAM is basically a small, extra-fast form of memory (like L1, L2, or L3 cache, but bigger and slower).

Basic: Nowadays most RAM is measured in gigabytes, and as is often the case, the more, the merrier. By having more RAM, your computer is able to keep more data close at hand, rather than having to go digging around through the slower hard drive for the information it needs. Of course, because RAM is smaller, there is only so much room for data. That's why it's useful to have more RAM if you want to keep multiple tasks going at the same time, and to be able to jump between them relatively quickly. If you're also guilty of having too many web browser windows open at the same time, more RAM will make that a lot easier.

Advanced: There is, of course, a bit more to RAM than just the size of it. If you check out the specifics of the RAM in a computer and see that it's DDR2-800, you can get a quick sense that this is a faster memory than one labeled DDR2-400, as that last number signifies how many millions of data transfers the RAM can make each second. RAM also has clock speeds, similar to processors, and the faster, the better. However, that speed is limited to the speed of your computer's motherboard, so if you're buying RAM separately from your computer, figure out the speed of your motherboard and don't buy RAM that's any faster - as it will probably cost you more for no reason - and don't buy RAM any slower - as it will force your motherboard to run at the slower speed. One final number you can note is in the module name, where you may see something like PC3-8500, which indicates that the memory can transfer around 8,500MB per second - once again, the bigger, the better.

4. Hard drives aren't hard choices

Every computer needs data storage, and though that is something RAM does, the majority of it will go onto your hard drive. There are typically a few different options you'll need to consider in the search for a hard drive, but what it really comes down to is how you plan to use your computer.

Basic: If you plan to just have your computer and no peripherals, you may want to opt for the biggest hard drive you can (measured in gigabytes, or terabytes for extra large drives), since all of your files and programs will be stored on the computer. If you don't plan to have many applications on your computer, and won't store media on it, then you can opt for a smaller hard drive and save yourself some money. If you can handle a small hard drive but want to it be extra fast and you have the cash, consider going for a solid-state drive, or flash hard drive.

Advanced: The size of your drive is one thing. If it's a disk drive, the spin speed is another. Naturally, the faster your hard drive disk is spinning, the quicker information can be gathered from it. So, between a 5400rpm drive and a 7200rpm drive, the second would be faster. If you can handle having only a few larger programs installed on your computer at a time, and plan to keep everything else stored on an external device, you can probably get a quick device with a solid-state drive to keep the computer zippy at all times, and still manage to stream high-quality media through a USB connection - some applications may even be able to run from an external hard drive. You'll also want to pay attention to data transfer bandwidth. The higher, the better.

5. Check your peripherals

The peripherals on your computer are going to be pretty specific to your needs, so you'll need to think about whether you'll need them, and just how many of them you want. You may want ten USB ports but not have a care in the world about having a DVD drive. On the other hand, you may do everything online and just want as few holes in your machine as possible for soda to spill into and frazzle the circuitry.

USB: There is, thankfully, a standard that most computer peripherals opt to use, and it can be for anything from mouses and keyboards to hard drives and monitors - heck, you can even plug a guitar in via USB if you've found the right cord. A modern version of USB, called USB 3.0, is faster than its predecessors, but there's an even newer version of USB, called USB Type-C, which offers gigabits of bandwidth and the ability to handle enough current to power a laptop. While USB Type-C will eventually become the single technology that you'll use to connect all your devices, and is a good thing to have on a new machine, you'll need to avoid off-brand cables that can fry your brand-new computer.

If you plan to transfer a lot of data, make sure you have a fast USB port- or a fast wireless network. An alternative for some major externals (like CD drives and hard drives) is to get a computer with an eSATA port, which will let you plug in those peripherals on the fly with high data transfer rates.

HDMI: If you're going to use your machine for entertainment, you'll probably want an HDMI output. This will allow you to connect it to most modern televisions for a high-quality visual display, and it will also run the audio out if you're planning to use the TV for sound.

SD slot: If you work a lot with photography, an SD slot can be a handy way to get the files from your camera over to your computer. For computers with small hard drives, an SD card can also function as a small, out-of-the-way addition to the computer's overall memory. For the slightly more savvy users, SD cards can even be used to speed up the system.

Wi-Fi: if you plan to connect to a lot of networks a lot of places and want to do it wirelessly, you're probably best off getting a built-in Wi-Fi receiver rather than working with some sort of external Wi-Fi device. If you're running a desktop computer, you can probably get away with running an ethernet cable straight into the computer without being constantly annoyed by the need for a wire to get internet.

Bluetooth: Just like Wi-Fi, you can get a built-in Bluetooth receiver with your computer, and that may be a smart move if you want to be a true wireless warrior. Whether it's for sending audio to headphones or to a 7.1 channel surround sound set up that will keep your neighbors on their toes, Bluetooth is a handy way to make those connections easy and tangle-free. It may be worth it for these types of uses, otherwise, you can probably save yourself a few bucks by not seeking it out.

6. Mac OS, Windows, and Linux, oh my!

The short and simple of it is that you should probably stick with what you're familiar with, as it can be hard to adjust to a new operating system unless you're ready to put in the work. If you know what Linux is, you probably don't need to read this section. If you don't know what Linux is, you almost definitely don't want it.

If you want an easy-to-use system that keeps most things basic for you, check out Mac. If you like a little bit more control of your computer's nitty-gritty, you'll probably have an easier time getting to do that on Windows. If you're comfortable with an operating system, stay with it. However, it's worth noting that not all software is available for every operating system; so, if you absolutely need Final Cut for that feature film you're shooting on the weekend, don't buy a Windows computer expecting it to run Mac-only software.

7. There's more to graphics than a sticker on your computer

Lately, computer makers have been tagging stickers on their computers to boast about the AMD or NVIDIA graphics cards they have included in their machines. Unfortunately, those mean thousands of different things, and it's pretty hard to tell just what.

Basic: If you just want to know whether the card in the computer on the left is better than the one in the computer on the right, you can do a quick search on PassMark's site for the graphics components in each. Some buzz words to be aware of are "integrated" and "dedicated." The former is built into the computer's processor and relies on the computer's memory - typically this is a lower performance graphics component. A dedicated graphics card will include its own processor and memory, and will tend to be higher-performing - though a very old card might not best modern integrated graphics.

Advanced: If you're looking into the specifics of graphics processors, you will have to think of them like their own pair of a processor and RAM. This is another case of the more, the merrier. Higher speed, higher capacity RAM in the graphics card will let it handle a more intense graphic load and do it quicker. This will allow for better, more fluid visuals. The card's processor speed will be similarly important and can be looked at much the same as a computer's processor. You can dig into the details and see how many shaders it has and what its core speed is, but in the end, it will probably be most valuable to check out a benchmark score that has evaluated its actual performance.

8. Oh, so you want to get into PC gaming?

To play the latest games with the graphics on high (or ultra) and keep a high frame-rate, you'll be needing to look into a truly high-performance machine. Modern games take up a lot of space, so a big hard drive is a must if you plan on having more than one game installed at a time - you'll want it to be a fast drive, too. Running those games also takes a lot of processing power, so a heavy-hitting processor will be important. You can do without too many cores in your processor if each is extra-fast, but if you're planning to play your games and keep other programs open in the background, consider bumping up the core count.

Integrated graphics? Forget about it. Unless you want to sputter out low-quality visuals on the newest games, you'll need a dedicated graphics card, and a good one at that. You can probably get by with something in the mid-range of graphics cards, but a high-end card is your best bet. Be sure to get plenty of VRAM on that card. When it comes down to making your choice, you'll still probably be best consulting the benchmarks mentioned on the last page.

Thinking about anything other than Windows? Reconsider. Some games are made available for Mac and Linux, but there will be a great number of games unavailable to you if you aren't running Windows - though there is the tricky option of dual-booting.

Thinking about a laptop? Reconsider again. As mentioned in the beginning, there is a premium to be paid for cramming high-end hardware into an extra small box, and a PC gaming rig requires a lot of high-end hardware. There are plenty of quality gaming laptops out there, but in most instances, they will be more expensive than an equal desktop. Then there's the problem of overheating, which a laptop will be much more prone to do. An added benefit of going with a desktop is that you will be able to swap out components or add more when the games' demands start to trump your computer - upgrading to a new graphics card is much easier in a desktop, and in some cases a second graphics card can be added to share the load. With a little careful shopping, you might be able to grab a gaming rig and a cheap netbook for the same price you would have paid for a gaming laptop.

9. Great, now how do we buy it?

One of the most important things to do when buying a new computer - as with any expensive purchase - is to be very patient. Technology evolves fast, and if you buy a new computer today, you might not have noticed a newer one was set for release tomorrow - and would have likely cost the same as the one you just bought, or made yours less expensive to buy. You could get into a logical loop that has you waiting indefinitely, but choosing the best time to pounce is key.

Check refresh cycles for products. If you know 'Computer Maker A' comes out with a new model around the same time every year, expect to get a discount on an old model just before a new one comes out, or wait until the new one is out so that you have the latest technology.

It can also be useful to get friendly with the computer maker's website, as they often allow you to customize a computer rig with the components you want. On top of it all, you're much more likely to stumble across an incredible sale if you shop regularly for a good stretch of time instead of just spending the better part of a day to make your pick and purchase it then and there. Also, don't be afraid to spend a few more bucks to nudge up your computer's specs - this can be helpful down the road, as it will ensure your computer can handle the more intensive tasks that will only start to show up months and years down the line. If you make the cheapest purchase, you might be looking at buying another new computer much sooner than you would otherwise.

One last tidbit: Go ahead and ask a salesperson to give you a deal. Maybe they won't bump down the price of the computer, but if you're going to need a mouse, a keyboard, a monitor, or any other device to go with your computer, see if they will cut off sales tax or give you some other discount for purchasing the items together. You will often be pleasantly surprised.

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9 Key Things to Know Before You Buy a New Computer

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Buying a computer is no easy task, and with the cost of many of the machines out on the market today, you want to make sure you're making the right purchase so you don't blow your money on something that stops meeting your demands within a year.

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When deciding between purchasing a desktop computer or a laptop computer, you'll need to consider a handful of criteria and make a determination that fits your needs the best. Below is a chart that compares the two types of computers, providing pros and cons for each to help you make a more informed purchasing decision.

In the end, the final decision depends on what your needs are. While the above chart may make it look as though Desktop computers are the best overall option, if portability is a big need of yours, the laptop is the best option. There are some limitations to consider, but they are not overly significant for most users.

However, if you want the most bang for your buck and portability is not necessary, a desktop is likely the best choice especially if price is important. Desktops are optimal choices for graphic intensive gaming, use of CAD applications, and for those who prefer to have the option of upgrading more easily. However, they are also perfectly fine for the basic computer user who just needs e-mail and Internet access.

Additional information

See our desktop and laptop definitions for further information and related pages.

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When deciding between purchasing a desktop computer or a laptop computer, you'll need to consider a handful of criteria and make a determination that fits your needs the best. Below is a chart that compares the two types of computers, providing pros and cons for each to help you make a more informed purchasing decision.

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The complete guide to building a computer. 

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The complete guide to building a computer. 

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Building a computer from scratch gives you the perfect machine for your needs, but it can be daunting the first time around. Here's our complete guide, from picking the parts, to putting it together and installing your OS.

This Night School series was originally published in 2011. We've gone through and given it some much-needed updates: we changed outdated references, added some new resources and tools, and expanded a few sections. Enjoy!

For our first lesson in building your own PC, we start with a little computer hardware basics.

In this lesson, we'll show you how to most effectively pick out and shop for your parts.

Assembling your computer can seem daunting, but it's actually pretty easy. In lesson 3, we show you step-by-step how to put everything together.

Once you've put it together, you're past the difficult portion. Lesson 4 deals with installing your operating system and get everything up and running.

There's a lot more computer-building info out there than we can fit into one Night School. In our final lesson, we share some other resources that should help you in both the building and post-building steps.

If you'd like all of these lessons in a printable format, I recommend sending each article to a service like Readability or Pocket. That way, you can print out a clean, readable version that you can reference as you build. Thanks for learning with us this week!

Check out the full Lifehacker Night School series for more beginners lessons covering all sorts of topics.

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How to Build a Computer: The Complete Guide

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Building a computer from scratch gives you the perfect machine for your needs, but it can be daunting the first time around. Here's our complete guide, from picking the parts, to putting it together and installing your OS. This Night School series was originally published in 2011.

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10 Tips to Help You Choose the Right Tablet | NEA Member Benefits

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Now, every time you sign in, you'll be able to access all the benefits available to you as an NEA member.

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How to build a computer from scratch, for beginners. 

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How to build a computer from scratch, for beginners. 

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While it can feel daunting to build a PC, the ability to choose your own components is more than worth the time investment. Because building a computer is potentially overwhelming, we've crafted a step-by-step guide to help you through the process.

We'll tell you everything you need to know about staying safe and organized while you install all the elements of your PC in the proper order. Get ready to step back in pride as you power on your own custom-built computer.

Getting started

This guide is all about piecing components together to create a functional machine. If you haven't selected and purchased all the required hardware, make sure you do that first. It's also a good idea to purchase (or craft) your case last so you can make sure everything will fit inside it.

Have your parts? Good. Let's build a computer!

There are a couple of safety issues to discuss before we actually start ripping open those boxes.

Safety first

There's an invisible risk when building a computer that can crush the most powerful system: Static electricity. The same force that lets you shock your friends when you wear wool socks can also fry components in a heartbeat. Fortunately, static is easy to all but eliminate with a few simple steps.

One simple solution is to purchase an anti-static wristband. One end wraps around your wrist, and the other clips somewhere on the computer case, keeping the wearer constantly grounded. Touching the case frequently with the PSU plugged in and powered off achieves the same effect.

This guide serves as a general overview of the process, and the instructions packed with your parts may vary from our suggestions. When they do, default to the included instructions and use our guide as a road map for the overall project.

Opening the case

Preparing the case is the easy part. Instructions for the specific case you purchased should introduce you to its basic layout as well as list special instructions regarding component installation.

Lay down the case in your work area and remove the side panel. For most PC cases, this means the left-side panel when viewed from the front. This panel provides access to the case interior.

Also, remove anything that's dangling inside the case. If it's attached, push it aside. Many cases have permanent internal wiring that becomes problematic later on.

Before we start putting everything together, we'll first install the power supply and then set the case aside for a few minutes.

Step 1: Install the power supply

The first component to make its way into the case should be the power supply (PSU). It is typically located at the rear of the case, usually in the bottom or top corner.

When in doubt, the slot is easily located by searching for a square opening with screw holes in at least two corners. The PSU sits in this opening with its power switch and a female socket facing out from the case's back panel. Consult your case's manual if you have trouble finding the proper location.

There are two main power supply variants: Standard and modular. There's a hybrid semi-modular type too, but we don't need to worry about that for now.

Modular PSUs have cables that detach from the main unit to avoid clutter. They're ideal for smaller cases and neat freaks. If you have a modular PSU, it's best to leave the cables out for now and run them as you install each additional component.

If the PSU's cables don't detach, carefully bundle them so they're hanging out the case's open side panel. This temporarily keeps them out of the way while we install the remaining components.

Step 2: Install the processor

Next, prepare the motherboard by installing the CPU, cooler, and RAM before fitting it in the case. They're a lot easier to install now rather than after the motherboard resides in the system.

In fact, depending on your case and cooler, you may not be able to assemble your system with the motherboard already installed. That's because many after-market coolers use a backplate to provide the tightest fit possible. It is, of course, attached to the back of the motherboard. You won't be able to install it unless you have a case with a cut-out that aligns with the backplate's location, a feature typically found only in high-end enclosures.

There are numerous pins on the CPU and motherboard, and bending any one of them could render that component kaput.

Carefully remove the motherboard from its anti-static bag and set it on a hard, flat, non-metal surface such as a wooden desk, or the top of the motherboard box itself. Also, make sure there are no sources of dust or liquid nearby.

Even though installing a CPU is an easier task now than it was in previous years, it's still one of the most precarious. There are numerous pins on the CPU and motherboard, and bending any one of them could render that component kaput.

That said, the process isn't designed to be difficult, and as long as you follow the instructions clearly and keep an eye out to ensure the chip is fully seated before you clamp it in place, you'll be fine. However, there are some subtle differences in the process depending on who made your CPU.

Instead of jutting from the processor, pins now reside in modern Intel sockets on motherboards, making CPU installation easy. This part of the socket is called the contact array. Absolutely do not bend or touch these pins!

The square metal bracket holding the CPU in place is the load plate, and it's raised and lowered using the load lever. When clamped down, the end of the load lever tucks under a hook to keep everything in place.

First, open the load plate. Do this by gently pushing down on the load arm and moving it out sideways from under the hook, and then raising it up all the way. The hook's lever action opens the plate, which you can easily flip up. If it's a new motherboard, there may be a plastic or foam filler in the socket, which you can gently remove.

Use the load arm on the side to lower the plate over the chip, then push down and re-clip the arm under the hook once again. This requires a fair amount of pressure, so make sure the chip is properly seated before pressing down.

Remember, the notches in the processor should align with those in the socket. If in doubt, start again and double-check.

Unlike Intel's design, pins jut from AMD's CPUs. These pins insert into holes embedded in the motherboard's CPU socket. The load arm on the socket slightly shifts the holes underneath, gripping the pins on the processor when pressed all the way down.

If it isn't already, raise the arm so that it's pointing straight up, and then rests a little farther back. That ensures the holes for the pins are wide open.

Instead of using notches, correctly line up the processor in the slot using a triangle engraved in gold on one of the CPU's corners. All you need to do is line that triangle up with a second triangle cut into the slot.

Once the processor sits comfortably in the slot, simply press the arm down until it clicks into place and locks in. This last step can be intimidating since it requires a fair amount of pressure to lock in place.

Step 3: Install the RAM

System memory, or RAM, doesn't require any careful goo placement or wires. There are just two important factors, assuming you've chosen compatible RAM: Direction and slot choice.

The direction is easy enough. Each memory stick has a notch in the contacts lining the bottom edge that lines up with a block in the motherboard's memory slots. If you hold it just above the slot and the two line up, it's facing the right direction. If it doesn't line up, spin it 180 degrees.

Slot choice depends on a few factors, one of which is how you purchased RAM. If it's just a single stick, install it in the A1 slot and move on with your life. A diagram in the motherboard's manual should label the slots if it isn't printed directly on the PCB.

However, you likely purchased two identical RAM sticks, a common package called a dual-channel configuration. The system can use both sticks as if they were a single block of RAM but accesses them individually, providing a modest boost to memory performance.

You should install these sticks in channels (slots) with matching colors, usually labeled A1 and B1, though sometimes A2 and B2 are preferable. Check your motherboard's manual to confirm which are best for your system.

Now that we know the proper slot and direction, the next part is easy. Push the plastic wings at either end of the slot down and outward (some motherboards only have one) then place the stick in the slot sticking straight up. Push down firmly until the RAM clicks into the slot, and the plastic wings click back in and clamp the ends of the sticks.

We put together a more detailed guide for how to install RAM if you need additional information.

Step 4: Install the motherboard

Installing your packed motherboard is easy enough, but it can't just sit in your case. Most modern cases have built-in, non-removable spacers between the back wall and motherboard, known as standoffs. They act as a ground for the motherboard while preventing the connections on the back from shorting.

Some cases have removable stand-offs you must manually install. They're easy to identify because they look unusual - essentially screws that have another screw hole on top instead of the typical screwdriver notch. They're usually copper or gold in color, making them easy to pick out.

If not, you may need to wiggle the motherboard slightly to make sure it snaps properly into the I/O shield and the stands-offs align. This may require some effort, but it shouldn't require much force. If you're forcing the motherboard, double-check how it's aligned, as it may not be properly positioned. Be firm but gentle.

Don't go wild while tightening screws, as you might damage the board if you put in too much effort.

Depending on the case and motherboard combination, pairing the two requires between six and 10 screws. You may find that not all holes match up with standoffs underneath. Drop a screw into a hole to see if it threads right away.

Like every set of screws, the first step is seating the screws and giving them a couple of precursory turns. Then, proceed in a star pattern, tightening each screw a little at a time. Don't go wild while tightening as you might damage the board. You only need enough torque to hold the board in place without wiggling.

Once the motherboard seats comfortably in the case, there are a few necessary connections.

First, the motherboard's power connection is a wide, two-row cable that fits snugly into a similar looking spot on the board itself. This 20-28 pin connector powers both the motherboard and the CPU. However, some boards have a second 4-pin or 8-pin connector for the processor, which resides near your CPU, typically in the top corner. If you have it, you'll need to plug that in, too.

Second, connect the case plugs and buttons to the motherboard. A double-wide row of pins - the location of which will be noted in your manual - runs the USB ports, buttons for reset and power, and activity LEDs for power and storage.

These small cables run in a bundle from wherever the ports reside in the case. Proper installation can be difficult, however, due to their size. If you have a magnifying glass or a set of tweezers, now is a great time to use them. Some motherboards include an adapter that bridges these jumpers to the right connections on your motherboard. Otherwise, installing them is as simple as matching the labels on the pins with the labels on the connections.

The USB header connecting to your front-facing motherboard ports will be on its own. This connection is around eight by two pins, and they're enclosed in a larger plastic housing. This header has a notch on one side that should clearly indicate which direction it plugs in.

Step 5: Install the CPU cooler and/or heat sink

With the motherboard now tethered to your case, you can wipe the sweat of concentration off your brow. Now it's time for the CPU cooler or heat sink!

Installation is simpler when using the CPU's packaged cooler. The process varies, however, given the different brands and generations. You'll need to refer to the included instructions for specific details. The same is true for third-party coolers, which use a proprietary installation bracket. Following the included instructions is crucial to your PC-building success.

Every cooler needs thermal paste. It's an excellent thermal conductor, allowing heat to transfer from the chip to the cooler with ease. Without it, your cooler won't work very well, if at all. If you aren't sure what type of thermal paste to use, it's well worth doing some research, and we have a list of the best thermal pastes for you to choose from, too.

AMD and Intel apply it to their coolers in the factory, but third-party coolers require manual pasting. Unfortunately, rubbing goo on an expensive CPU isn't as straightforward as it sounds.

When directed by the instructions, simply apply a single silver dot - about the size of a small pea - right in the center of the chip. After squishing the chip and cooler together, try not to wiggle or twist too much, to ensure a smooth, full connection.

For basic heat sinks, you're now finished; just wait for the paste to cure. But the full fan system still needs power. Plug the wires from the fan into a four-pin connection on the motherboard, which should be close to the processor and labeled "CPU_FAN."

Step 6: Install your graphics card

Not every system needs a dedicated graphics card (discrete GPU). If you want a stand-alone chip for graphics, like PC gaming, installation couldn't be simpler. We're also assuming for this step that the card you chose is appropriate for your case size, capabilities, and power supply.

Modern graphics cards use a PCI-Express (PCIe) slot. It's a long, thin connector located on the rear of the motherboard, below the processor. To seat the card in that slot, you'll need to remove a rectangular backplate from your enclosure. It's one of many thin metal brackets lined down the back of the case to keep it sealed up.

You'll need to remove one or two, depending on the card's width. Do this by removing the screw that secures the backplate to the chassis. Once removed, the plate should slide (or fall) out freely. Keep the screw as you'll need it in a moment.

After removing the brackets, make sure the switch on the motherboard's PCIe slot is pushed outward. Then, with the ports facing the empty spot where the backplate used to be, carefully line up the long series of contacts on the card with the appropriate slot on the motherboard. Once it's lined up properly, a solid push on the top of the card should cause it to snap into place as the switch clicks back in to hold it.

You don't need excessive force, but if you encounter a great deal of resistance, take another look at the backplate and PCIe slot to make sure both are clear and the motherboard is properly aligned. Also take note if there is a push-pin that locks the card in like your memory slots, as some motherboards use it as a safety measure.

Use the screws pulled from the metal brackets to fasten the back of the card into the same spot in the case. Again, they don't need to be extremely tight - just enough to hold the card firmly in place.

The connector is designed to prevent improper installation, so if the connection isn't easy, double-check your alignment to make sure it's correct.

Most video cards need extra power apart from what the PCIe slot provides. If your card needs extra juice, you'll see a PCIe power connector on the card's side facing away from the motherboard or, in some cases, on the side facing the front of the case. This connector is a group of square plastic pins numbering six or eight.

The most powerful cards may have two such connectors. Find the appropriate connector on your power supply, typically labeled VGA, and slot it in. The connector's design prevents improper installation, so if the connection isn't easy, double-check your alignment to make sure it's correct.

If you need additional help, we have a detailed guide on how to install a graphics card with additional information.

Step 7: Install any additional expansion cards

Graphics cards aren't the only components that use PCIe slots. Other add-in cards include wireless networking, sound, video capture, and even storage. Their installation is no different than adding a discrete GPU.

First, remove the metal bracket in the back of the case that corresponds with the PCIe or other expansion slot playing host to your add-in card. Keep the bracket screw handy so you can use it to secure your new card.

PCIe slots have a small switch at the interior end, which you push down and outward to open the slot. After that, line up the row of contacts on the card with the slot and firmly push down. Once you properly seat the card, the switch flips up. Securing the card in place is as simple as screwing it into the back of the case and attaching any necessary PCIe ports.

There are a few different types of PCIe slots. Many expansion cards use the "PCIe 4x" slot, which is much shorter than the full PCIe slot used by video cards. A quick check of your motherboard's connectivity, and the size of the connector on your card, will make it obvious which slot is appropriate. If in doubt, refer to the expansion card's manual.

Step 8: Install your storage drives

There are three different storage drive sizes you're likely to encounter, and they all mount and connect differently. Generally, hard disk drives (HDD) are the larger 3.5-inch size, while newer solid-state drives (SSD) adopt the smaller 2.5-inch size. There's also the even smaller M.2 format and PCI-Express drive format, which tend to be thin sticks with bare chips measuring around 1 x 3 inches.

We'll start with 3.5-inch data drives, which are usually mounted up high at the front of the system. Your case is almost guaranteed to have at least one slot dedicated to this drive type. Installation depends on the enclosure, however, as most cases have a simple hard drive cage. Installing a drive means slotting it into a mount on the cage and aligning the screw holes on the drive's sides with those on the cage. Make sure the drive's power and data connectors face inwards, toward the motherboard. Once aligned, screw the drive into place.

Modern cases quite commonly enjoy a "tool-less" installation system. As the term implies, this design should mean it's possible to install the drive without a screwdriver. Usually, this means placing the drive into a cradle or cage that slots into the case. Refer to your enclosure's instructions for specifics, since the technique varies from one brand to the next.

For 2.5-inch drives, the mounting process and location vary. Some cases have a cage, similar to the 3.5-inch mounting, where the SSD can just slide in - no rivets, screws or brackets needed. If it doesn't, the SSD requires an adapter so it can sit securely in a 3.5-inch bay.

You can mount this drive in one of two ways. Either the larger bracket provides holes inside so you can screw the drive into the middle, or the case includes a bracket that adds extra girth to the 2.5-inch drive.

Hard drives require two connections as well: One for power and one for data. The good news is that both are L-shaped, so it's hard to plug them in the wrong slot or the wrong direction.

For those with a newer M.2 drive, you'll want to look for a small slot that matches the width of your stick-shaped drive, and a screw located a few inches away. Remove the screw, insert the contact end into the slot, and then push down gently until you can use the screw to hold the drive in place once.

Finally, you can mount PCI-Express storage drives just like you do with graphics cards in an available PCI-Express slot.

Step 9: Make the final connections

Before you get too excited and hit that power button, it's worth running back through the system to make sure everything is properly seated and connected. Let's start with the components.

The motherboard is usually easy to spot if it isn't plugged in. Most PSUs have one wide cable that's obviously intended for this slot, with no other connections attached. It should plug into your board somewhere near the PCIe slots, but the location will vary.

Your motherboard is also likely to have a second, four-pin (or eight-pin) connector that powers the processor. You may need to look through your power supply's available connectors with a keen eye to find it given it resembles a PCIe power connector. But don't worry - a PCIe connector won't fit, so improper installation isn't possible.

The CPU cooler also needs power, but that flows from the motherboard. Its power cable doesn't need to go far, as most motherboards keep the plug close to the socket. The little wire is just three or four sockets and connects to a set of four pins on the motherboard.

The hard drives need power too in the form of L-shaped SATA connectors (unless it's a PCIe drive). Typically, a string of three or four lines run straight from the power supply using unique connectors. You can't install them the wrong way, either.

Finally, high-powered graphics cards need dedicated power connections, usually in the form of a black rectangular connector with six or eight pins. These plugs are brightly colored and easy to spot and only fit in the interior end of the card in one orientation. If they aren't plugged in, the fans on the card won't spin, and it won't produce any video output.

Step 10: Power on

Now that you've double-checked everything, switch on the power supply and press the power button on the front. A lot of systems don't boot correctly the first time, so don't get discouraged if you need to go back and check connections again.

Once it does boot, you'll need to install an operating system (OS). Luckily, we've built a handy guide that clearly walks you through the process. If you don't have another PC around to download the ISO, you can purchase a USB thumb drive from Microsoft with the OS image ready to go.

After that, you may need to install drivers. Windows 10 already supports modern chipsets and automatically downloads and installs the remaining drivers in most cases. Check the Update & Security menu in the Settings pane for more information regarding this process.

If that doesn't work, the chipset driver for your motherboard will handle most connectivity and onboard features, though this varies greatly based on motherboard and component manufacturers. Remember to check component boxes for install discs and other information before throwing them out with the trash.

Typically, only discrete graphics cards require you to manually download and install the latest driver. Check out the AMD page for Radeon drivers or the Nvidia page for GeForce drivers.

With some luck and a lot of attention to detail, you should have a fully operational system. Make sure to keep an eye out for any error messages, and hold your hand outside the case fans to make sure air flows and isn't too hot - at least for a few weeks.

If something breaks or needs an upgrade, you're fully equipped to deal with it. Just watch out for static.

Editors' Recommendations

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Laptop vs tablet: Which is right for you? We guide you through the various benefits and drawbacks of both laptops and tablets to help you make an informed decision on your next device.
When it comes to buying a new portable computer, these days you're no longer limited to the laptop option. Tablets are a viable alternative for many people looking to get things done on the go.

Now that companies such as Apple with its iPad Pro, or Google with its Pixel C, have started to make high-end, powerful tablet/laptop hybrids, the options available have become even more overwhelming.

How best to navigate under such tyranny of choice? Well, step one is to read this helpful guide we've put together.
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It's worth bearing in mind that there is no better option, but there is a best option for you. Essentially, this is going to come down to what you want to do with your new purchase. If you're unsure of which device is going to support your multitasking needs, or whether you should shell out for a laptop if you just want to watch Netflix on the go, we've got you covered.

So check out our guide to choosing between laptop or tablet, and go forth as an informed consumer into yonder bloated market.

Portability

When it comes to portability, there's no question that tablets offer the best option. In general, tablets are 7-11 inches, while laptops are 12-16 inches, which immediately means that the former are going to be easier to carry around.

But if you're going for one of the larger tablets or a hybrid such as Microsoft's Surface Pro 4, you might want to consider whether getting a small laptop is going to work out better for you. It will likely weigh slightly more but in terms of size, the larger tablets and smaller laptops are very similar.
Related: Best tablets
The Asus ZenBook UX305CA weighs just 1.2kg for example, while Microsoft's 12-inch tablet hybrid, the Surface Pro 4, weighs 766 to 786 grams depending on which processor you opt for. Elsewhere, Apple's 11-inch Macbook Air weighs 1.08kg, while the 12-inch iPad Pro tablet comes in at 713 grams.

Basically, the weight difference isn't going to be too noticeable between larger tablets and smaller laptops. With that in mind, you may want to consider whether it's worth the slight weight increase to get the enhanced computing power that comes with a laptop.

Performance

This is fairly simple. Laptops are going to provide advanced performance in comparison to tablets, simply due to the fact that their larger cases can pack in more hardware.
Related: Best laptops
Multitasking, for instance, is easier on a laptop than it is on a tablet, although tablets are increasingly offering better multitasking solutions. iOS 9, for instance, features multitasking in the form of split view and picture-in-picture, and many other manufacturers, such as Acer, load their tablets with a proprietary feature that allows you to open multiple windows on one screen.

Still, if you're going to be doing in-depth research or a similarly intensive task that requires multiple apps, you can't beat the desktop approach offered by laptops.

In terms of hardware, again, most laptops will have better specifications than tablets. Even the top-specced iPad Pro has 4GB of RAM and storage options starting at 32GB, while Google's new flagship Pixel C tablet has 3GB RAM, with internal storage starting at 32GB.

Whereas you'll pay at least £679 for the iPad Pro, you can get a Lenovo Yoga 500 convertible laptop with 4GB RAM with the option to increase that to 8GB, and 1TB of internal storage for £399. Thinking of buying a Surface Pro 4 tablet? Before you spend £749 for the 4GB RAM, 128GB storage, Intel Core M3 option, check out the stellar Dell XPS 12 convertible ultrabook which comes with the same RAM and storage specs and an Intel Core i5 processor for around £600.

Related: iPad Pro vs Surface Pro 4

In terms of performance then, laptops will always have better specs than tablets. That doesn't mean tablets will run slowly or won't offer a smooth user experience, it simply means that laptops are equipped for more intense tasks.

If you enjoy playing the odd game of Candy Crush, casually browsing the internet, and streaming a film on Netflix every now and then, a tablet may be for you. If you're looking for something that's going to allow you to carry out more in-depth tasks requiring multiple programmes, then a laptop is probably the way to go, although some of the higher end tablets including the iPad Pro and Surface Pro 4, will offer better performance than simpler tablets such as the Amazon Fire HD 8 or iPad Air range.

Battery

Due to their smaller size, tablets will always have a better battery life than laptops. It's simply a matter of not having to power as much hardware, or as big a screen, which allows the smaller devices to maintain more charge than a laptop.
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Still, more expensive laptops can last longer, but again, you'll have to pay more to get a laptop that can hold its charge almost as well as a tablet. The Dell XPS 13 lasted around 11 hours on our 40% screen brightness test while both the iPad Air 2 and iPad Pro will give you around 10 hours of life with regular use.

Overall though, tablets offer vastly better battery life than laptops, so if you're looking for something that doesn't need to carry out demanding tasks, then a tablet is your best choice.

Display

As mentioned previously, generally speaking tablets are 7-11 inches, while laptops are 12-16 inches. There are, of course, exceptions, but if you take these as a rough indication then you'll get the point that mainly laptops are going to offer a bigger picture.
Related: Macbook (2015) vs Macbook Air (2015)
But that, of course, doesn't mean you're going to get a better picture. With smaller screens, tablets often feature better pixel-per-inch (PPI) density, meaning the individual pixels are packed closer together, resulting in a sharper, more cohesive image. Taking seven tablets from our list of best tablets, the average PPI works out at 262, whereas doing the same with our best laptops, the average is a PPI of 176.

Precision is also something to keep in mind. Laptops still can't be beaten when it comes to control, whether that involves web browsing or word processing. Of course, there's always the option of using a detachable keyboard with some tablets, but you won't be able to beat the feel of a full-sized keyboard and although some tablets are capable of supporting mice, laptops lend themselves to such a setup much more easily.

In other words, touch screens are great, but when it comes to precision, laptops will serve you better. On top of that, many modern laptops feature touchscreen technology anyway.

With all this is mind, you should, again, think about what you will be using your device for. If you're going to be watching a lot of video on the go, a tablet may well be your best option as it offers better pixel density on average and great portability. If you're looking for better precision than a touch screen can offer, a laptop is the way to go.

Software

When it comes to software, tablets are centered around apps while laptops offer a more versatile desktop experience. If you want to use in-depth programmes such as Photoshop or Logic or anything that demands more than tapping a screen can accommodate, then a laptop is your best bet.
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It's a similar story for web browsing. If you've ever tried to surf the web using a mobile browser you'll know it can often be a frustrating experience. Apps make it easier to use websites and online services by optimising the interface for a touch screen, meaning If you prefer having dedicated programmes for each service you use, then a tablet is the best way to go.

With a laptop, you'll still be able to use certain apps, but using a web browser will provide a much more accessible experience than doing the same on a tablet. It also means you don't have to clutter up your hard drive and desktop with small programmes that only allow access to one online service. Therefore, if you like to keep things simple and have one programme to access all your online content, a laptop is the best option.

Certain tablets, such as the Surface Pro 4, use Windows 10 which, although it's essentially a desktop operating system, combines the tablet and desktop experience. You can download apps and access your desktop with Windows 10, providing a hybrid experience unlike the Android or iOS experience. If you're looking for a mix of apps and the desktop, you might consider looking into the Surface series of hybrid devices.
Related: Android 6.0 Marshmallow
In terms of gaming, if you're looking for something capable of running somewhat demanding games, a laptop is the only choice. Although tablets offer gaming capabilities, they will not come near the processing power that laptops can offer. Depending on the types of games you play then, you will be able to get your gaming fix with either device. When it comes to anything more demanding than Asphalt 8 racing however, a laptop is the only option.

Storage

On the whole, you'll get much more storage with a laptop. Taking three of the top tablets available now, the iPad Pro, Google Pixel C, and Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 all start at 32GB internal storage. For laptops, 32GB is a miniscule offering and most models will come with at least 128GB, although smaller laptops, such as the HP Stream 11, come with a 32GB hard drive, while others, such as the Toshiba Chromebook 2 include just 16GB of storage.
Related: Best Android tablet
There are also tablets which offer more than the average internal storage, such as the Surface Pro 4 which starts with a 128GB hard drive.

On the whole however, you're going to get more internal memory with a laptop, so if you're going to be working with multiple files that you need to keep on your machine, laptops offer the best solution.

Price

This is fairly simple. Top-end tablets will range from £600 to £800 while top-end laptops range from £900 to £1,500. You can pick up high end slates such as a Surface Pro 4 tablet for £749 or iPad Pro for £679, while a Google Pixel C, which offers what might be the best Android experience available, will cost you £399. iOS users looking for something cheaper than the iPad Pro have the option of picking up the stellar iPad Air 2 for £399. As tablets go, these are the best options available now in terms of hardware and functionality.

In comparison, the best laptops will generally cost you more. Macbooks start at £1,049, while one of Lenovo's top offerings, the ThinkPad P70 starts at £1,699.99, and Microsoft's new Surface Book starts at £1,299.
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That doesn't mean you have to spend a lot to get a great device. Samsung's Galaxy Tab S2 is a great Android tablet that starts at £349, you can get an iPad Mini 4 for £319. And if you're looking for something even cheaper, the Amazon Fire HD 6 tablet will only cost you £79.

Similarly, when it comes to laptops, the Dell XPS 13 offers a premium experience for £799, while the 11-inch Macbook Air starts at £749.

Overall, you'll generally pay more for a decent laptop than a decent tablet, but there are certainly deals to be had.
Related: How to switch from iPhone to Android
So which should I buy?

It seems obvious but this all comes down to what you want to use it for. It also depends on which tablet you're thinking about buying. The Surface Pro 4 and iPad Pro are both designed as laptop replacements, with Apple going so far as to say that their high-end slate will replace your desktop computer.

However, then the question becomes, if a tablet is trying to be a laptop, why not just buy a laptop? You'll get better multitasking and performance and it'll be easier to use for things like word processing.

Still, tablets are perfect for light use on the go, so if you're not worried about extra processing power or having to perform multiple tasks at once, you can pick up some great tablets at an affordable price.

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Laptop vs tablet: Which is right for you? We guide you through the various benefits and drawbacks of both laptops and tablets to help you make an informed decision on your next device. When it comes to buying a new portable computer, these days you're no longer limited to the laptop option.

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