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Summer squash (also known as vegetable or Italian marrow), is a tender, warm-season vegetable that can be grown throughout the United States anytime during the warm, frost-free season. Summer squash differs from fall and winter squash in that it is selected to be harvested before the rind hardens and the fruit matures. It grows on bush-type plants that do not spread like the plants of fall and winter squash and pumpkin. A few healthy and well-maintained plants produce abundant yields.

Recommended Varieties

Summer squash appears in many different fruit shapes and colors:

Scallop or Patty Pan is round and flattened like a plate with scalloped edges, usually white but sometimes yellow or green.

Constricted neck is thinner at the stem end than the blossom end, classified as either "crookneck" or "straightneck" depending on if the stem end is straight or bent, and is usually yellow.

Cylindrical to club-shaped Italian marrows, such as zucchini, cocozelle and caserta, are usually shades of green, but may be yellow or nearly white.

The varietal selection of summer squash has markedly changed in recent years and the number of varieties offered has greatly expanded as the result of new interest, hybridization and introduction of disease resistance. The number of varieties is staggering. Recommended varieties of summer squash include:
Zucchini (Open Pollinated)

Black Zucchini (best known summer squash; greenish black skin, white flesh)

Black Beauty (slender, with slight ridges, dark black-green)

Cocozelle (dark green overlaid with light green stripes; long, very slender fruit)

Vegetable Marrow White Bush (creamy greenish color, oblong shape)

Zucchini (hybrid)

Aristocrat (All America Selection winner; waxy; medium green)

Chefini (AAS winner; glossy, medium dark green)

Classic (medium green; compact, open bush)

Elite (medium green; lustrous sheen; extra early; open plant)

Embassy (medium green, few spines, high yield)

President (dark green, light green flecks; upright plant)

Spineless Beauty (medium dark green; spineless petioles)

Golden Zucchini (hybrid)

Gold Rush (AAS winner, deep gold color, superior fruit quality, a zucchini not a straightneck)

Yellow Crookneck

Early Yellow Summer Crookneck (classic open-pollinated crookneck; curved neck; warted; heavy yields)

Sundance (hybrid; early; bright yellow, smooth skin)

Yellow Straightneck

Early Prolific Straightneck (standard open-pollinated straightneck, light cream color, attractive straight fruit)

Goldbar (hybrid; golden yellow; upright, open plant)

Scallop

White Bush Scallop (old favorite Patty Pan type, very pale green when immature, very tender)

Peter Pan (hybrid, AAS winner, light green)

Scallopini (hybrid, AAS winner)

Sunburst (hybrid, bright yellow, green spot at the blossom end)

Other

Butter Blossom (an open-pollinated variety selected for its large, firm male blossoms; fruit may be harvested like summer squash, but remove female blossoms for largest supply of male blossoms)

Gourmet Globe (hybrid; globe-shaped; dark green, with light stripes; delicious)

Sun Drops (hybrid, creamy yellow, unique oval shape, may be harvested as baby with blossoms attached).

When to Plant

Plant anytime after the danger of frost has passed, from early spring until midsummer. Some gardeners have two main plantings - one for early summer harvest and another for late summer and fall harvest.

Spacing & Depth

Sow two or three seeds 24 to 36 inches apart for single-plant production, or four or five seeds in hills 48 inches apart. Cover one inch deep. When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to one vigorous plant or no more than two or three plants per hill.

Care

Any well-drained garden soil produces excellent yields of summer squash. Certain mulches increase earliness and yields, because the roots are shallow.

Harvesting

Because summer squash develop very rapidly after pollination, they are often picked when they are too large and overmature. They should be harvested when small and tender for best quality. Most elongated varieties are picked when they are 2 inches or less in diameter and 6 to 8 inches long. Patty Pan types are harvested when they are 3 to 4 inches in diameter. Slightly larger fruit may be salvaged by hollowing out and using them for stuffing. These larger fruits may also be grated for baking in breads and other items. Do not allow summer squash to become large, hard and seedy because they sap strength from the plant that could better be used to produce more young fruit. Pick oversized squash with developed seeds and hard skin and throw them away. Go over the plants every 1 or 2 days. Squash grow rapidly; especially in hot weather and are usually ready to pick within 4 to 8 days after flowering.

Although summer squash has both male and female flowers, only the female flowers produce fruits. Because the fruits are harvested when still immature, they bruise and scratch easily. Handle with care and use immediately after picking. Be careful when picking summer squash, as the leafstalks and stems are prickly and can scratch and irritate unprotected hands and arms. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to harvest and wear gloves if possible. Some gardeners also pick the open male and female blossoms before the fruits develop. Especially the female blossoms, with tiny fruit attached, are a delicacy when dipped in a batter and fried.

Common Problems

Cucumber beetles attack seedlings, vines and both immature and mature fruits. They can be controlled with a suggested insecticide applied weekly either as a spray or dust. Be alert for an infestation of cucumber beetles in early September because these beetles can damage the mature fruits.
For more information on cucumber beetles, see our feature in the Bug Review.
Squash bugs attack vines as the fruit begin to set and increase in numbers through the late summer, when they can be quite damaging to maturing fruit. They hatch and travel in groups, which seem to travel in herds until they reach maturity. Using the proper insecticide when the numbers of this pest are still small minimizes damage.
For more information on squash bugs, see our feature in the Bug Review.
Questions & Answers
Q. Will summer squash cross with winter squash?
A. Summer squash varieties can cross with one another, with acorn squash and with jack-o'-lantern pumpkins. Cross-pollination is not evident in the current crop, but the seed should not be sown for the following year. Summer squash does not cross with melons or cucumbers.

Selection & Storage

Most people harvest summer squash too late. Like winter squash, summer squash is an edible gourd. Unlike winter squash, it is harvested at the immature stage. Ideally, summer squash should be harvested at 6 to 8 inches in length. Pattypan and scallopini are ready when they measure about 3 to 4 inches in diameter or less. Tiny baby squash are delicious too. Large rock-hard squashes serve a better purpose on the compost heap than in the kitchen.

Cut the squash from the vine using a sharp knife or pruning shears to avoid damaging the plant. Summer squash vines are very prolific, the more harvest the greater the yield. The most important characteristic to remember is that summer squash is best when immature, young and tender.

In this section, summer squash varieties will be limited to zucchini, yellow squash (crooked and straight), pattypan which is also call scalloped and scallopini. Because summer squash is immature, the skin is very thin and susceptible to damage. Handle with care. The average family only needs to plant one or two of each variety. Over planting usually leads to hoards of huge inedible fruit and/or scouring the neighborhood for people to take the surplus.

To store summer squash, harvest small squash and place, unwashed in plastic bags in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Wash the squash just before preparation. As with most vegetables, water droplets promote decay during storage. The storage life of summer squash is brief, so use within two to three days.
Squash Blossoms
Squash blossoms are edible flowers, raw or cooked. Both summer and winter squash blossoms can be battered and fried in a little oil for a wonderful taste sensation. Harvest only the male blossoms unless the goal is to reduce production. Male blossoms are easily distinguished from the female blossoms. The stem of the male blossom is thin and trim. The stem of the female blossom is very thick. At the base of the female flower below the petals is a small bulge, which is the developing squash.

Always leave a few male blossoms on the vine for pollination purposes. There are always many more male flowers than female. Harvest only the male squash blossoms unless you are trying to reduce production. The female blossom can be harvested with a tiny squash growing at the end and used in recipes along with full blossoms. Use the blossom of any variety of summer or winter squash in your favorite squash blossom recipe.

Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut squash blossoms at midday when the petals are open, leaving one inch of stem. Gently rinse in a pan of cool water and store in ice water in the refrigerator until ready to use. The flowers can be stored for a few hours or up to 1 or 2 days. If you've never eaten squash blossoms, you are in for a treat. A recipe for Stuffed Squash Blossoms is in the recipe portion of this section.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Because summer squash is immature, they are considerably lower in nutritional value than their winter counterparts. Generally, there is little variation in nutritional value between varieties. The peel is where many of the nutrients hide, so never peel summer squash.

Nutrition Facts (1 cup sliced, raw zucchini)

Calories 16
Protein 1.31 grams
Carbohydrates 3.27 grams
Dietary Fiber 1.36 grams
Calcium 16.95
Potassium 280.24
Vitamin A 384 IU
Folate 24.93 mcg

Preparation & Serving

Summer squash can be grilled, steamed, boiled, sauteed, fried or used in stir fry recipes. They mix well with onions, tomatoes and okra in vegetable medleys. Summer squash can be used interchangeably in most recipes. Tinybaby squash can be used as appetizers, or left whole and sauteed with other vegetables.

Don't waste male squash blossoms by leaving them in the garden. If you do not have the time or inclination to prepare them separately, toss them in the salad bowl or add to any squash preparation.

Home Preservation

Canning is not recommended because the tender summer squash will simply turn to mush during processing, unless you are making pickles. Zucchini can be substituted for cucumbers in some pickle recipes. The results are especially good in your favorite recipes for Bread and Butter Pickles.

Blanch and freeze cubes or slices of summer squash or grate and freeze Zucchini, unblanched for making Zucchini bread. The best way to use over grown (10 to 12 inches) zucchini is to grate it and use in zucchini bread. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and cut away the seedy middle section. Wash, grate and freeze in one cup portions. Use zip closure freezer bags or rigid freezer containers leaving 1/2 inch head space. Over size zucchini can also be used to make canned zucchini chutney. The over 12-inch monsters should go on the compost heap.

Recipes

Herbs and spices that enhance the flavor of summer squash include marjoram, cumin seeds, parsley, dill, rosemary and savory. Too many herbs and spices mask the delicate flavor of summer squash so use herbs and spices sparingly. Since so many requests come in for recipes for summer squash, several are included in this section.
Zucchini Carrot Bread
To use frozen grated zucchini in bread, thaw the package in a pan of cold water, squeeze out excess water and precede with the recipe. Omit the carrot and substitute 1/2 cup zucchini or other squash, if desired.

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup canola oil
1 cups grated zucchini
1/2 cup grated carrots
1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
Powdered Sugar (optional)

1. In a large mixing bowl stir together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and ginger. Set aside.

2. In a medium bowl, beat the egg, add the oil, grated zucchini, and grated carrots. Mix well.

3. Add the zucchini mixture and nuts to the flour mixture. Stir only until all the flour is incorporated. Do not over mix or the bread will be dry and chewy.

4. Scrape the batter into a well greased 9-inch bread pan and bake in a preheated 375° oven for 50 minutes.

5. Remove from the oven and let the bread cool in the pan 5 minutes, then turn out onto a rack or plate. Serve warm or cool and dust with powdered sugar. Makes one 9-inch loaf.

Summer Garden Vegetable Medley
This recipe includes many of the vegetables found in your garden. Substitute yellow squash for zucchini or a combination of both. Add carrots, or eggplant or whatever you have in the garden.

3 medium zucchini (7 to 8 inches) or 5 small (4 to 5 inches)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bell pepper or any pepper variety, seeded & cut into strips
6 trimmed, thinly sliced green onions with tops included
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds, ground
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Wash and thinly slice squash and set aside. Prepare all other vegetables and set aside.

2. To toast cumin seeds. Heat a heavy skillet over low heat. Add the cumin seeds and shake the skillet periodically. When their aroma begins to be noticed, after about 5 minutes, remove the skillet from the heat. Pour seeds into a mortar, allow to cool then grind. Or use a spice grinder.

3. Heat a non-stick skillet or wok over medium heat. Add oil. When oil is very hot, add peppers, onions and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add zucchini and tomatoes and continue cooking for 5 minutes.

4. Sprinkle with ground cumin, salt and pepper, stir. Serve hot or cold. Makes 6 servings.

Spicy Squash Cakes
This recipe works well with a combination of zucchini and pattypan or yellow squash. Temper the fieriness of the jalapenos by adjusting the amount or by removing the seeds and white membrane. Prepare small cakes for an appetizer or larger ones as a side dish or serve with crusty bread and tomato salsa for a full meal. The salsa recipe is in the section on tomatoes.

1 whole egg plus 2 egg whites or use 3 eggs
4 cups grated summer squash
1 cup fresh corn kernels, cut from 2 ears
1/4 cup chopped green onions, tops included
1 large jalapeno pepper, chopped
1/3 cup parmesan cheese
1/2 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper or black pepper
Canola oil for sauteing
Low-fat sour cream (optional)
Fresh tomato salsa (optional)

1. In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Beat in squash, corn, green onions, jalapeno, the cheeses, flour, olive oil and ground pepper.

2. Heat two tablespoons canola oil in a heavy 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. For small cakes, spoon one tablespoon squash mixture per cake into the hot oil and flatten to uniform thickness. For large cakes, use two tablespoons of squash mixture per cake. Do not over crowd the skillet. Leave about an inch between cakes.

3. Cook until edges turn golden brown, turn and cook the other side until golden brown, about three minutes total cooking time per cake. Transfer to a paper towel lined plate. Place in a warm oven and continue cooking the remaining cakes.

4. To serve, arrange two or more cakes on individual plates. Serve with some of the salsa and a dollop of low-fat sour cream. Sprinkle with salt if desired. Serves 6.

Stuffed Squash Blossoms
Read the section on "Squash Blossoms" before you go charging out to the garden. Use your favorite bread or meat stuffing or use the ricotta/mushroom stuffing below. Or skip the stuffing, and simply batter the blossoms and fry. The batter must be chilled for 30 minutes. Or it can be made in advance and refrigerate it for up to two days. If it is too thick after refrigeration, add a few drops of water to return to original consistency.

The Batter

1 cup flour
1/2 cup cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup fat-free chilled milk, beer or water

The Stuffing

1/4 cup ricotta cheese
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper
2 tablespoon mushrooms, finely chopped
1 tablespoons fresh basil or parsley, minced
16 large squash blossoms, washed
Canola oil for frying

1. Prepare the batter first. Sift together dry ingredients, then whisk in milk, beer or cold water until smooth. Cover and set in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Leftover batter can be stored for up to two days.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the stuffing. In a bowl combine the ricotta cheese, garlic, salt, pepper, mushrooms and basil. Open the blossoms and spoon about one 1/2 teaspoon of the mixture into the center of each. Avoid overfilling the blossoms. Twist the top of each blossom together to close. Place on a baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

3. Pour the oil into a skillet to a depth of 1/2 inch. Heat over high heat until a small cube of bread dropped into the oil turns golden brown within seconds.

4. Briefly dip each stuffed blossom into the batter, then carefully slip into the hot oil. Cook until golden on all sides, about three minutes total cooking time. Add only as many blossoms at a time as will fit comfortably in the skillet. Transfer with a slotted utensil to paper towels to drain briefly.

5. Sprinkle with salt, if desired and serve immediately. Serves 4.

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Summer squash (also known as vegetable or Italian marrow), is a tender, warm-season vegetable that can be grown throughout the United States anytime during the warm, frost-free season. Summer squash differs from fall and winter squash in that it is selected to be harvested before the rind hardens and the fruit matures.

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How to Plant, Grow & Harvest Sunflowers in Your Garden 🌻

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Sunflower heads turn toward the sun during the day.

You can't look at sunflowers and feel sad. Their big bright faces almost seem to be smiling at you on a summer day as they slowly turn toward the sun. Not only do the flowers make people happy, they sunflower plants provide food for bees, birds and squirrels and many other small animals that love to eat the seeds that appear after the flower's petals have fallen off in late summer.

Sunflower Seeds

Sunflower seeds aren't only delicious to birds and other animals. People love them too. You can find bags of them in the grocery store, either in the shell or out of the shell. A sunflower head grows at the very top of the plant and looks like it has petals only the outside edge. However, if you look closely enough, you'll see hundreds of tiny flowers across it. Each one of those flowers will open into a single seed, and it is from one seed that all the others come from on a single plant.

Growing Sunflowers

Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow. You can try planting some of the seeds you buy at the grocery store if they are still in the shell, and they might grow. However, there's a good chance that they won't become the big sunflowers you sometimes see or make many more seeds. You need special seeds that have been saved just for planting. When you are ready to plant them, get the spot ready by digging it up and taking out all the rocks and weeds. Poke holes in the dirt with your fingers and drop a single seed in each hole. Cover the seeds and give them a good drink of water with a garden hose or a watering can, and then wait about two weeks until you see the first green sprouts pop up. Keep watering them during that time if the soil gets dry or it doesn't rain much, since they need lots of water to start growing.

Kinds of Sunflowers

There are hundreds of different types, or varieties, of sunflowers. The biggest ones are Mammoth Russians that grow to over 10 feet tall and produce big round heads with bright yellow petals that measure over a foot across. They grow on strong thick stems with big heart-shaped leaves. The ripe seed heads sometimes get so heavy that they hang down. Other types of sunflowers, called dwarf, produce small stalks and smaller flowers in colors such as light yellow and deep bright orange or red. You can see many different types of sunflower seeds sold in packets in the garden section of stores in the spring. The packets tell you what kind of seeds they are and how they should be planted. You can also find information about sunflowers in garden seed catalogs, where you will find photos to help you see the differences among them.

Picking Sunflower Seeds

When the sunflower heads have lost their petals, the seeds ripen and dry up. With small plants, this happens in about 80 days, but with the bigger types, it can take 90 to 100 days. When they are ready to pick, get a grownup to help you cut the sunflower heads down and hang them in a cool, dry place to finish drying. When they're completely dry, pull the seeds off the heads, keep them in jars or containers with lids, and eat the seeds as a snack.

The scientific name for sunflowers is helianthus. "Helia" means sun and "anthus" is another word for flower. Sunflowers first grew in North America more than 1,000 years ago and were an important food for Native Americans. People from other countries like Spain took some back to Europe with them, and now they are grown in many other countries as well. Sunflower seeds are used for many products besides just being eaten as they are. The oil is removed from them to cook with or to be added to other foods, and the shelled seeds are added to breads, cereals and trail mixes.

About the Author

Rachel Lovejoy has been writing professionally since 1990 and currently writes a weekly column entitled "From the Urban Wilderness" for the Journal Tribune in Biddeford, Maine, as well as short novellas for Amazon Kindle. Lovejoy graduated from the University of Southern Maine in 1996 with a Bachelor of Arts in English.

Photo Credits

Thinkstock Images/Comstock/Getty Images

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You can't look at sunflowers and feel sad. Their big bright faces almost seem to be smiling at you on a summer day as they slowly turn toward the sun. Not only do the flowers make people happy, they sunflower plants provide food for bees, birds and squirrels and many other small animals that love to eat the seeds ...

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Can I Grow Sunflowers Where I Am?

Sunflowers grow best in locations with full sun. They are remarkably tough and will grow in any kind of soil as long as it is not waterlogged. They do fine in soils that are slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline (pH 6.0 to 7.5). Once sunflowers get started, they can tolerate drought as befits plants whose ancestors grew happily in dry prairie regions. They are so easy to grow that they often plant themselves, springing up unbidden beneath a bird feeder.

What Is The History Of Sunflower's?

Contemporary sunflowers trace their ancestry to plants found at archeological sites dating from 3,000 BC. While they grew abundantly on the Great Plains, sunflowers were first purposely cultivated by Native Americans in the Southwest or Mississippi River valley area as a source of medicine, fiber, seeds, and oil.

When the European settlers arrived, they immediately recognized the value of sunflowers and sent seeds back to Europe. There they found a place in English cottage gardens and even Van Gogh's paintings. However, it was in Russia that the sunflower became a major agricultural crop. They provided a source of oil that could be eaten without breaking church dietary laws. Early in the 20th Century, Russian growers spearheaded the breeding and selection for disease resistance and high oil content. In the 1960s, the U.S. began sustained commercial production of oil seed cultivars to produce vegetable oil.

Should I Grow Sunflower Seeds or Plants?-Shop all Sunflowers

Although sunflowers can be started indoors in individual peat pots, it is easiest to sow seeds directly into the soil after all danger of spring frost is past. However, where the growing season is short, sunflowers can be safely planted up to 2 weeks before the last expected spring frost. Sunflowers can take a chill or two. Where growing seasons are long, it is best to wait until the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees to 60 degrees F.
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How Do I Cultivate Sunflowers?

To plant sunflowers:

Space seeds about 6 inches apart in a shallow trench between 1 and 2 inches deep. In sandy soil, 2 inches deep is better.

Cover and keep watered until seeds sprout in 7 to 10 days.

When first true leaves appear (the second set of leaves); thin plants to about 2 feet apart.

Depending on the variety, sunflowers will mature and develop seeds in 80 to 120 days.

Sow a new row every 2 to 3 weeks to enjoy continuous blooms until the first frost.

For maximum seed production space rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Use traditional, tall, seed-producing varieties such as 'Mammoth' or 'Paul Bunyan Hybrid', 'Aztec Gold Hybrid', or 'Super Snack Hybrid'.

Growing Tips For Sunflowers

Sunflower roots spread widely and can withstand some drought. However, it is best to water them regularly during their most important growth period which is about 20 days before and after flowering. Deep, regular watering helps encourage root growth, which is especially helpful with taller sunflower varieties bearing top-heavy blooms.

Sunflowers do not require fertilizing. However, because they grow vigorously (they can easily grow 6 feet in just 3 months), it's a good idea to add some slow-acting granular fertilizer to especially poor, thin soil. The better their diet, the larger the flowers. Do not overdo the nitrogen because that will delay flowering. Spreading a 2- or 3-inch mulch layer of some kind of organic material on the soil will reduce moisture loss through evaporation and discourage weeds.

While a few sunflower varieties do not need any staking, it is a good idea to support plants that grow over 3 feet tall or are multi-branched. Their branches are fairly brittle, especially at the points where they join the stems. Shallow rooted and weighed down with many large flower heads, plants are vulnerable to summer winds and rain. Tie the plants loosely to stakes with lengths of cloth or other soft material as needed.

Birds and squirrels can be a problem when seeds ripen and harvest time approaches. If you do not plan to use the seeds, it is fun to watch wildlife enjoy the bounty. You may want to cut the flower heads off and lay them out in the sun to dry and provide easier access to wildlife. Conversely, to deter birds and squirrels, barrier devices are most effective. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece. It will let light and air in and keep critters out. Also try cutting away the few leaves that are closest to the heads to make it harder for birds to perch and feed.

Deer will readily eliminate a sunflower patch. As they favor the new, tender leaves at the top of the plants, a 36-inch chicken wire barrier supported by 6-foot bamboo stakes should keep them at bay. Simply raise the wire as the plants grow.
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What Are Some Sunflower Insects & Diseases?

Sunflowers are virtually as care free as their smiling faces suggest. However, they are sometimes infected with fungal diseases such as mildews and rusts. Downy Mildew causes mottling and pale areas on upper leaf surfaces and a fuzzy mold growth on their undersides. Eventually the leaves wither and die. The oldest leaves are usually infected first. Downy mildew is most likely to occur on cool damp nights and warm humid days. It spreads by means of tiny spores carried to plants and soil by wind and rain or transmitted by garden tools. It will not kill a mature plant; it just mars its appearance.

Rust appears on upper leaf surfaces first as yellow or white spots that turn brown or black. Puffy blisters then appear on the undersides. The disease may spread to stems and flowers causing distorted growth. Rust sometimes spreads to the cultivated sunflowers from weeds such as wild mustard, shepherd's-purse, pigweed, and lamb's-quarters.

If fungal diseases are spotted early, spraying with a general garden fungicide as directed on the product label can protect healthy foliage. Remove and destroy seriously infected plants. Keep the area weeded and clean up plant debris from the garden in the fall. Disinfect tools by dipping them in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 4 parts water. Keep your hands clean, and do not handle plants when they are wet.

Harvesting Tips For Sunflowers

In the early fall, check flower heads for signs of maturity. The reverse side turns from green to a yellow-brown. Large heads will nod downward. A close look will reveal the tiny petals covering the developing seeds have dried and now fall out easily exposing the tightly packed mature seeds.

Sunflower Recipes & Storage

Sunflower seeds are rich in vitamins, proteins, and minerals, as well as linoleic acid which helps the body metabolize fats properly. They contain about 24 to 27 percent protein, only slightly less than an equal weight of ground beef. Furthermore, sunflower seeds contain about twice the iron and potassium and about 4 times the phosphorus of beef. Raw sunflower seeds also contain vitamins B and E, and a dash of vitamin A. Sprouted, they also contain vitamin C.

Use the seeds for snacks, alone or mixed with raisins, dried fruit chips, and nuts. Add hulled sunflower seeds to salads and use them in fruit or vegetable recipes. Substitute sunflower seeds for nuts in baking.

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How to Grow Sunflowers - Gardening Tips and Advice, Annual Flowers at Burpee.com

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Sunflowers grow best in locations with full sun. They are remarkably tough and will grow in any kind of soil as long as it is not waterlogged. They do fine in soils that are slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline (pH 6.0 to 7.5).

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Comprehensive Article

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Video of Bees Pollinating Crocus Flowers

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Video of Bees Pollinating Crocus Flowers

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Bees Pollinating Crocus Flowers & Sunbathing!

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How Some Bees Help Pollinate Blueberry Bushes

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How Some Bees Help Pollinate Blueberry Bushes

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Comprehensive Article

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Although the tulip plant (Tulipa spp.) is known worldwide for its bulb and sprouting characteristics, these perennial blossoms do produce seeds after pollination. A seed pod develops after the flower fades -- the compact pod actually dries and opens when it is ready for seed dispersal. Tulips rely on both self- and ...

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Journey North International Plant Study
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Tulip Diagram Coloring Page | Parts of a flower, Tulips, Coloring ...
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Floral Variation | Biology 343
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Journey North International Plant Study700 × 745 - 37k - gifjourneynorth.org Tulip Diagram Coloring Page | Parts of a flower, Tulips, Coloring ...350 × 450 - 26k - gifpinterest.com Parts Of A Tulip Stock Photos & Parts Of A Tulip Stock Images - Alamy1300 × 957 - 70k - jpgalamy.com Welcoming The Tulips | Parts of a plant, Parts of a flower ...781 × 625 - 45k - jpgpinterest.com flower | Definition, Anatomy, Physiology, & Facts | Britannica500 × 215 - 17k - jpgbritannica.com Floral Variation | Biology 343400 × 419 - 37k - jpgblogs.ubc.ca

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Farmer's Almanac

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Become a better gardener! Discover our new Almanac Garden Planner features for 2022. It's easy, fun, and free to try!

Long live the tulip! These brightly colored jewels should be planted in the fall so that they can brighten our days in early spring. We truly look forward to seeing those blue-green leaves start to emerge as the Earth awakens from its winter sleep! Here are our tips on how to plant and care for tulips.

About Tulips

Tulips normally begin emerging from the ground in late winter or early spring. If mild winter weather causes premature growth, the danger is not as great as it may seem. Tulips (and daffodils) have braved these cold temperatures before and are quite tolerant. If winter temperatures return, it may delay growth. The snow is helpful, discouraging additional growth and protecting the foliage from extreme cold.
Plant in the Fall for Spring Blooms
Tulip bulbs are planted in the autumn before the ground freezes. By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors and most are excellent for use as cut flowers, too.

Tulip flowers are usually cup-shaped with three petals and three sepals. There's a tulip for every setting, from small "species" tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders. The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet. One tulip grows on each stem, with two to six broad leaves per plant.

Are Tulips Annual or Perennial Bulbs?

Although tulips are a perennial from a botanical perspective, many centuries of hybridizing means that the bulb's ability to come back year after year has weakened. Therefore, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can't replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in the western mountain region of the U.S. come closest to this climate, and may have more success perennializing their tulips.

When to Plant Tulips

Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, 6 to 8 weeks before a hard, ground-freezing frost is expected. The bulbs need time to establish themselves. Planting too early leads to disease problems. See local frost dates.

A good rule of thumb is to plant bulbs when the average nighttime temperatures in your area are in the 40- to 50-degree range.

In colder northern climates, plant in September or October. In warmer climates, plant bulbs in December (or even later).

To find the best dates, consult our fall bulb planting chart.

Nature never intended for bulbs to loll about above ground, so don't delay planting the bulbs after purchase.

In southern climates with mild winters, plant bulbs in late November or December. The bulbs will need to be chilled in the refrigerator for about 12 weeks before planting. (Bulb suppliers often offer pre-chilled bulbs for sale, too.)

If you miss planting your bulbs at the optimal time, don't wait for spring or next fall. Bulbs aren't like seeds. Even if you find an unplanted sack of tulips or daffodils in January or February, plant them and take your chances. See more about planting tulips in winter.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

Tulips prefer a site with full or afternoon sun. In Zones 7 and 8, choose a shady site or one with morning sun only, as tulips don't like a lot of heat.

Soil must be well-draining, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, and dry or sandy. All tulips dislike areas with excessive moisture.

Tall varieties should be sheltered from strong winds.

You'll want to space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart, so choose a large enough planting site.

Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.

How to Plant Tulips

Plant bulbs fairly deep-6 to 8 inches deep, or about three times the height of the bulb. Dig a hole deeper than that in order to loosen the soil and allow for drainage. In clay soils, plant 3 to 6 inches deep instead.

Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up. Cover with soil and press soil firmly.

Water bulbs right after planting. Although they can't bear wet feet, bulbs need water to trigger growth.

If you're planning to raise perennial tulips, feed them a balanced fertilizer when you plant them in the fall. Bulbs are their own complete storage system and contain all of the nutrients they need for one year. Use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food.

To deter mice and moles-if they have been a problem-put holly or any other thorny leaves in the planting holes. Some gardeners use kitty litter or crushed gravel. If ravenous voles and rodents are a real problem, you may need to take stronger measures, such as planting bulbs in buried wire cages.

Don't lose hope if you're planting your tulips later in the season-just follow these tips.

How to Grow Tulips

If it rains weekly, do not water. However, if there is a dry spell and it does not rain, you should water the bulbs weekly until the ground freezes.

Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed unless in a drought. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or any other rough material to the soil to foster swift drainage.

Apply compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.

In the spring, when leaves emerge, feed your tulip the same bulb food or bone meal which you used at planting time. Water well.

Deadhead tulips as soon as they go by, but do not remove the leaves!

Allow the leaves to remain on the plants for about 6 weeks after flowering. The tulips need their foliage to gather energy for next year's blooms! After the foliage turns yellow and dies back, it can be pruned off.

Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.

Tulip flowers may be single, double, ruffled, fringed, or lily-shaped, depending on the variety.

Wild-or "Species"-tulips are small in size, ranging in height from 3 to 8 inches. They are tougher than hybrids. They also bloom in the South and look best when planted as a carpet of color. One of our favorites is 'Lilac Wonder'.

Triumph hybrids are the classic single, cup-shape tulip that make up the largest grouping of tulip types. Top varieties:

'Cracker tulip' is a midspring bloomer with purple, pink, and lilac petals.

'Ile de France' is a midseason bloomer, with its intensely red blooms on stems to 20 inches tall.

'Calgary' is a midspring bloomer with snowy-white petals and blue-green foliage.

Though tulips tend be planted as annuals, the Darwin Hybrid tulips are known to act as perennials, blooming for several years.

There are so many beautiful varieties of tulips. Explore catalogs and experiment in your garden!

Did you know: If you dig up a tulip bulb in midsummer, it's not the same bulb you planted last fall. It's her daughter. Even while the tulip is blossoming, the bulb is dividing for the next generation.

To get the longest vase life, cut tulip stems diagonally, then wrap the upper two-thirds of the flowers in a funnel of newspaper and stand them in cool water for an hour or two. Then, recut the stems and the tulips will last at least a week.

In 17th-century Holland, the new tulip was such the rage and fashion that a handful of bulbs was worth about $44,000.

Red tulips symbolize a declaration of love. Explore more flower meanings here.

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BONUS: You'll also receive our free Beginner Gardening Guide!

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Become a better gardener! Discover our new Almanac Garden Planner features for 2022. It's easy, fun, and free to try! Long live the tulip! These brightly colored jewels should be planted in the fall so that they can brighten our days in early spring.

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The Best Method for Planting Tulip Bulbs

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AN AMAZING MIGRATION ~ Monarchs have three to four generations of offspring each year. In the fall, the fourth generation flies (migrates) to warmer climates to spend the winter (November to March) as an adult butterfly. Can you think of other animals that migrate? The life span for adults depends on if they migrate. For example, the fourth generation can live up to 9 months but the earlier generations live only two to five weeks. There are primarily three populations of monarch butterflies worldwide. They include the EASTERN MONARCHS (breeding east of the Rocky Mountains), the WESTERN MONARCHS (breeding west of the Rocky Mountains), and a non-migratory population breeding in southern Florida, Hawaii, the Caribbean Islands, and Central and South America. Monarchs have also been introduced in Australia. The eastern monarch population is famous for its long distance migration. Monarchs may travel up to 2500 km from as far north as Canada to wintering sites in the mountains of central Mexico. They spend their winter in the oyamel fir forests on branches that help them stay not too cold and not too warm. The western monarch population migrates shorter distances to winter homes along the central and northern coast of California (a cluster of migrants - left). They may travel from as far south as Arizona or from as far north as Canada or Washington. They primarily utilize eucalyptus trees along the coast. Once spring arrives, the winter butterflies begin to mate and leave their winter homes. These 4th generation winter survivors are the reason we have healthy first generation caterpillars in our gardens in spring and early summer. Without these amazing migrants, we wouldn't have new generations of monarchs to complete the yearly cycle. That is why it is really important that we encourage everyone to plant milkweed in the garden and in nature areas. Monarchs are declining in numbers and they need our help. Don't use chemicals in the garden and remember, "If you plant it, they will come!" One of the other ways we can help to protect monarchs is through research and conservation of their migration corridors and winter homes. Tracking the movements of monarchs through tagging (a sticker on the wing - left) helps us to learn about their migration behaviors. If you recover a dead monarch with a sticker and call the phone number, researchers can learn where it started, where it died, how far it traveled, and how long it lived. This data will help us protect all monarchs.

Milkweed

Milkweed is a wildflower that is native to the U.S. Growing up to six feet tall, the plant has long, thin, rigid stems, with a spherical cluster of pinkish-purple flowers. The name milkweed describes the milky sap, which contains natural latex. This latex contains alkaloids (nitrogen-based, drug-like chemicals) and cardenolides (natural steroids), which in some species can be toxic. If you watch caterpillars eat milkweed, you'll notice they eat in a circular fashion. This is thought to keep the caterpillar from getting stuck in the latex. However, the consumption of the cardenolides and alkaloids makes the monarch itself taste terrible to predators. This helps protect monarchs from becoming prey. That being said, milkweed must be handled with care. First, you should never eat milkweed - it will make you vomit. Second, you should avoid getting the sap on your skin or in your eyes. Milkweed is drought-resistant, and it grows best in well-drained soil. The leaves of the plant are broad and oblong, providing lots of food for monarchs. Often, milkweed will attract aphids. However, you don't have to worry about them because ladybugs will often show up and eat the aphids. This milkweed information was written by Benjamin Vogt and can be found at The Fix website at https://www.fix.com/blog/gardening-for-butterflies/

Tips for Rearing Monarch Caterpillars at home or in the classroom:

Collect caterpillars from host/food plants in your garden (milkweed) or purchase kits from Educational Science.

Use a screened habitat to house a potted milkweed plant or feed clippings to caterpillars in a smaller plastic container. Milkweed wilts quickly and caterpillars won't eat curled leaves. Late instar caterpillars, nearly ready to pupate may be finished off this way but don't let them run out of fresh leaves (this is more work than a potted plant and not recommended for school sites.)

Fun to raise with kids in the classroom or at home.

Never touch or move a caterpillar not in forward motion. The caterpillar may be preparing to molt or pupate, which if interrupted could cause death.

Recently emerged adults need 2-3 hours to dry their wings. They don't do well in captivity but can be kept overnight, or for a few days if you introduce regular feeding to them before releasing.

A sugar/nectar solution can be prepared with five parts water to two parts sugar. It helps to microwave the solution for dissolving, but make sure it is room temperature before feeding.

Monarchs generally won't require food until after 24 hours and then need to be held gently by their closed wings with feet touching the nectar or potted flower. If they are thirsty, their proboscis will unfurl. This must be done for 2 minutes, 2 or more times a day. The warmer the temperature, the more feeding is required.

RESOURCES

Monarch Overwintering Sites in California

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AN AMAZING MIGRATION ~ Monarchs have three to four generations of offspring each year. In the fall, the fourth generation flies (migrates) to warmer climates to spend the winter (November to March) as an adult butterfly. Can you think of other animals that migrate? The life span for adults depends on if they migrate.

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Named for the vivid red color of a Roman Catholic cardinal's robe, the cardinal flower ( Lobelia cardinalis) produces intense red blossoms at a time when many other perennials are declining in the summer heat. This plant is an excellent choice for naturalizing and wildflower meadows, but you'll also enjoy growing cardinal flowers in perennial borders. So exactly what is a cardinal flower and how do you grow cardinal flowers in the garden? Keep reading to learn more about the cardinal wildflower plant.

What is a Cardinal Flower?

The cardinal wildflower plant is an American wildflower native to Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Michigan, Missouri, Ohio and Wisconsin. These Lobelia flowers are tall perennials that thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 1 through 10. Tall spikes of brilliant red, trumpet-shaped flowers rise above the dark green foliage. Growing cardinal flowers bloom during summer and sometimes into fall.

Most insects struggle to navigate the long necks of the trumpet-shaped flowers, so cardinal flowers depend on hummingbirds for fertilization. The bright red color of the flowers and the sweet nectar attract many species of hummingbirds and growing cardinal flowers are ideal for use in hummingbird gardens.

The finely ground roots of this Native American wildflower were once traditionally used as aphrodisiacs and love potions, but the plant is toxic if eaten in large quantities. Therefore, it is better to stick only to growing and caring for cardinal flowers as opposed to using them medicinally.

How Do You Grow Cardinal Flowers?

Cardinal flowers grow best in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade, except in cool areas where they need full sun.

They need a moist, fertile soil and perform best if you work plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting. Set out new plants in spring, spacing them about a foot apart. Keep the soil very moist as the seedlings become established. A layer of organic mulch around the plants will help prevent water evaporation.

Caring for Cardinal Flowers

Water your growing cardinal flowers deeply in the absence of rain.

Fertilize the plants in fall with a shovelful of compost for each plant or a general purpose fertilizer.

In USDA zones colder than zone 6, cover the plants in fall with a thick layer of pine mulch unless you expect heavy snow cover.

Cardinal flowers begin blooming in early summer and peak in mid- to late summer. Clip out the flower stems when they are done blooming, or leave them in place if you want the plants to self-sow. You'll have to pull back the mulch so the seeds can fall directly onto the soil if you want seedlings. If you cut the spent flower spikes just above the leafy part of the stem, new spikes may arise to take their place, but they will be somewhat shorter than the first spike.

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Cardinal Flower Info - Growing And Caring For Cardinal Flowers

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Named for the vivid red color of a Roman Catholic cardinal's robe, the cardinal flower ( Lobelia cardinalis) produces intense red blossoms at a time when many other perennials are declining in the summer heat. This plant is an excellent choice for naturalizing and wildflower meadows, but you'll also enjoy growing cardinal flowers in perennial borders.

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Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis): Sacredness
Cardinal flower is the flower of consecration and blessing. Its flower essence helps to deepen our awareness and understanding that all life is sacred and whole; that all is unfolding in perfection. By remembering this sanctity, we become conscious of the beauty of life in our individual expression, within living Nature and the whole cosmos.

By taking Cardinal flower essence you 'plug in' since its high vibratory expressive red flowers shout out "All is Sacred! Everything is alive!"

For children ~ this essence validates their experience of the miracle of life and helps them live the magic.

Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review.

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Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis): Sacredness Cardinal flower is the flower of consecration and blessing. Its flower essence helps to deepen our awareness and understanding that all life is sacred and whole; that all is unfolding in perfection. By remembering this sanctity, we become conscious of the beauty of life in our individual expression, within living Nature and the whole cosmos.

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Learn about crocus bulbs, where to plant them and how to grow them. These easy, fall-planted bulbs bloom in early spring and return year after year. Crocus flowers attract bees and other pollinators.

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Flowers and Their Pollinators: A Perfect Match! | Spring is Here! | SciShow Kids

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Make your landscape do double-duty-looking great while tasting great, too! The highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) is an easy-care, multi-use shrub.

These attractive, well-behaved shrubs are rarely bothered by insects or diseases. In the spring, they are covered with white, bell-shaped flowers. Between July and September, depending on variety, mature plants produce hundreds of delicious berries. Then in the fall, the leaves turn a rich scarlet, orange or purple.

Blueberries grow wild over the eastern United States and are an important food for wildlife. To harvest your own crop of berries for fresh eating, baking and/or canning, you can choose varieties with different ripening dates, flavors and sizes. Then enjoy fresh-picked blueberries over a two- to three-month period!

In any case, plant two or more varieties to ensure good pollination and a larger crop. Ward's offers, in order of ripening time, these highbush varieties: Blue Jay, Patriot, Blue Crop, Blue Ray and Jersey. Or, you might like the low-bush type, Vaccinium angustifolium-suitable as a groundcover!

Tricks for Success:

Position shrubs in full sun for plentiful yields and plan for a mature size of four feet wide by 10 feet tall.

Blueberries require acid soil with pH below 6.0 and as low as 4.5. Have the pH of your soil tested. The Western Mass. Master Gardeners ( WMassMasterGardeners.org) offer this service at local farmers' markets in May or Ward's staff can help you do it. If the pH is greater than 5.5 but less than 7.0, you can increase the acidity by amending your planting bed with sulfur in the form of sulfate (SO4). Check the pH annually and amend as needed. It is generally impractical to modify alkaline soils (pH greater than 7). Your soil type will affect the quantity of sulfur needed. In short, a light sandy soil needs less sulfur than a heavy clay soil, even if the starting pH is the same. If you're not sure how much to add, stop in to Ward's with the pH results of your soil. we can help you determine the correct amount of additives to reach the ideal growing conditions for your blueberries.

Blueberries have shallow roots and appreciate a steady supply of moisture. Prepare the bed for them by amending 12 to 20 inches down and three to fi ve feet across with plenty of organic matter and compost in the root zone. Add sulfur if required by your soil test. space shrubs about 6 to 8 feet apart. to keep them moist through the summer, mulch with wood chips, sawdust, oak leaves or shredded bark. And by the way, blueberries love coffee- grounds, that is. Coff ee grounds or cottonseed meal add organic material while also releasing nitrogen and acidifying the soil!

Prune according to the pruning schedule chart. After two years in the fi eld, you'll want to select your best fruiting branches by pruning out weak twigs from the last summer's growth. overproduction of fruit from failure to prune can dwarf the plant. to protect your scrumptious berries while they are ripening, plan to cover the plants as soon as the berries start to turn blue. Birds have more time to check on the ripening progress of the berries than we do and will eat many or most of them as they ripen! your cover can be as simple as remay netting (a lightweight polyester garden fabric) wrapped around each bush, or you can build a cage over many plants. Be sure to stake netting down, blocking access from the ground! Th ose berries are tasty and birds will go under the netting. ward's blueberries will fruit this summer and bear a full crop after four to six years. Pruning after the third growing year, and annually after that, will produce the best yields. with proper care, this shrub can produce berries for decades!

Jodi Cahillane is coordinator for advertising and publicity at Ward's Nursery & Garden Center in Great Barrington. A member of the Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Association, she has led classes on many garden topics. WardsNursery.com

PRUNING: LESS BUSH YIELDS MORE BLUEBERRIES

Don't be afraid to prune! Blueberries fruit on the previous summer's woody growth. Flower and fruiting buds form at the ends of these shoots. By pruning out twiggy and weak shoot growth, you will encourage better fruit production. Early spring is the best time to prune blueberries. In spring, you can identify winter-injured wood and remove it. Carbohydrates produced in autumn will also have had sufficient time to move into the roots and crown for storage. What's a fruit bud? The fruit comes from the pollinated flowers. The flower buds are plump and rounded; leaf buds are small and pointed. Each flower bud may produce a cluster of five to eight berries. If all flower buds are left on, too many berries will be produced and many will be small and worthless. Also, short thin shoots will grow, resulting in poor fruiting wood for the following year's crop. Good shoots harden-off as canes with a grayish-brown color and will be approximately pencil size or greater in diameter.

With enough sunlight, the new canes will start to produce fruiting laterals in the second year at a relatively low level in the bush and will be able to develop a large zone of fruiting wood in the third and fourth years. If the bush is allowed to get too dense, a new cane will take three or four years to produce nothing more than a tuft of fruiting twigs at the very top of the bush. Older blueberry bushes may grow weak and slow or stop production for a variety of factors. Conditions that weaken plants include overbearing due to improper pruning, poor soil drainage, insufficient fertilizer, drought injury, shade or crowding, scale injury and grubs feeding on the roots. After you correct the undesirable conditions, it is possible to rejuvenate the bushes by pruning as outlined under rejuvenation below.

YEAR IN FIELD

PRUNING REQUIREMENTS

Planting Year and Year 2
Very little pruning. Only short, weak, twiggy growth need be removed. Prune out any dead or broken twigs.

Spring Year 3
Ready to prune for a small crop (½ to 1 pint per bush). Prune out dead or broken branches as well as any overlapping branches. Remove the thin, twiggy growth and concentrate the potential crop on a small number of stout, fruiting shoots. By limiting the cropping to only the strong shoots, the bush will continue to grow rapidly. A heavy crop at this time dwarfs the bush.

Spring Year 4
Prune out dead or broken branches as well as any overlapping branches. Remove canes that have only small, weak fruiting twigs. Cut to the ground or to a strong side shoot near the ground. This will stimulate the sprouting of new canes from the base, which keeps a plant relatively "young." Pruning allows adequate sunlight to penetrate the bush and promote the setting of fruit buds. Maintain a vase shape, narrower at the bottom and open in the center.

Pruning Mature Bushes Spring Year 5 and Older
Prune out dead or broken branches as well as any overlapping branches. The number of old canes to be removed depends on the rate of growth over the past several years and varies considerably over 6 years old, it may be necessary to remove two canes annually, due to changing growth rates. Canes of 1 inch diameter or greater will not produce as well and should be removed to encourage new canes to form. You can prune 20% of the bush at this time without affecting yield. Next after removing the older canes, eliminate any small, twiggy growth in favor of the stronger shoots. A limited amount of twiggy growth may be left in the lower portion of the bush. At this level shading is not a factor, and the fruit production from these twigs will add to the total crop.

Rejuvenating Old or Weakened Bushes
Rejuvenate old plants by removing a third to a half of the oldest canes. Tag one branch emerging from crown. Count the number of total canes in a circle and divide by 3. Remove the resulting number of canes. For example, if there are 15 canes, divide by 3 to come up with 5. Remove 5 canes by moving in a circle and cutting every third one. This will keep the bush symmetrical. Make large cuts at ground level. The remaining portion of the plant is allowed to bear heavily. More light should penetrate the plant and encourage new canes. Remove another third of the old canes the following spring, and so on.

About Jodi Cahillane

Jodi Cahillane is coordinator for advertising and publicity at Ward's Nursery & Garden Center in Great Barrington. A member of the Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Association, she has led classes on many garden topics. She routinely converts the thoughts, suggestions and ideas of her fellow staff members into comprehensible text for presentations, advertising, customer emails, the Ward's website and other media.

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Make your landscape do double-duty-looking great while tasting great, too! The highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) is an easy-care, multi-use shrub. These attractive, well-behaved shrubs are rarely bothered by insects or diseases. In the spring, they are covered with white, bell-shaped flowers. Between July and September, depending on variety, mature plants produce hundreds of delicious berries.

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Listening & Speaking Station

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Growing Blueberries: A Plant for All Seasons

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Blueberry plants are easy to grow, almost pest-free, and last a long time--and healthy!

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Animal Pollinators by Jennifer Boothroyd. || Read Aloud Book. || Learn About Pollination.

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Rimsky Korsakov - Flight of the Bumblebee

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Read Aloud

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Text Talk 4.1.1 Cuckoo/Cucu By Lois Ehlert

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Read Aloud

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Read Aloud Book | From seed to plant | Gail Gibbons |

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Read Aloud

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🍯🐝 Flight of the Honey Bee 🐝🍯 - Storytime Read Aloud Book For Kids

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Read Aloud

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Read Aloud

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Read Aloud

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Website

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Tulip Facts for Kids

Check out our fun tulip facts for kids. Learn how many species of tulip there are, how the tulip has been used throughout history, find out what "tulip mania" is, and much more.

The word tulip is derived from a Persian word called delband, which means turban. It is generally believed that it was called this due to the turban-shaped nature of the flower. However, this might have been a translation error as it was fashionable to wear tulips on turbans at the time.

The Dutch obsession with tulips began with Flemish botanist Carolus Clusius. When he was made director of Leiden University's new Hortus Botanicus (botanical garden) in 1593 he planted some of his own tulip bulbs. As a result, 1594 is considered the official date of tulips first blooming in Holland.

This led to a period from 1634 to 1637 known as "Tulip mania" when enthusiasm for the new flower started an economic frenzy and one of the world's first 'speculative bubbles'. The value of tulips shot up nearly overnight, they became the most expensive flower in the world, so expensive that they were treated as a form of currency.

Today, the Netherlands is still the world's main producer of commercially sold tulips, producing as many as 3 billion bulbs annually, mostly for export.

Tulip petals are actually able to be eaten, during the Dutch famine of 1944 in WWII people often had to resort to eating sugar beets and tulips.

The tulip is the national flower or Turkey and Afghanistan.

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Fun Tulip Facts for Kids - Interesting Information about Tulips

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Tulip Facts for Kids Check out our fun tulip facts for kids. Learn how many species of tulip there are, how the tulip has been used throughout history, find out what "tulip mania" is, and much more. The word tulip is derived from a Persian word called delband, which means turban.

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Listening & Speaking Station

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