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Valley floor river mouth at Pololū Valley

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The Ahupua'a of Pololū is located within a series of valleys, on the northern east coast of the Kohala Mountains on the Island of Hawaiʻi. It is through our moʻolelo oral and written, that we learn of these special places and their importance in history. Our ancient history teaches us that Pololū Valley is where Wakea and Papa, who created Hawaiʻi, came from. It was once populated with Kanaka ʻŌiwi, (indigenous people, Native Hawaiians). The high cliffs and valley floor provided shelter and safety for all. The access to the abundant resources water, food, and shelter created an ideal Ahupua'a and the people of Pololū thrived. The valley's natural resources as history records were a vitally important part of this Ahupuaʻa system. Pololū would be considered also a typical ahupuaʻa that started at the ocean and or extended out into the ocean for food resources. One of the most important resources that Pololū was known for was the abundant freshwater and wetland kalo (taro) that grew abundantly across the valley.

“Pololū is a pleasant village situated in a small, cultivated valley, having a fine stream of water flowing down its center, while lofty mountains rise on either side.  The houses stand principally on the beach, but as we did not see many of the inhabitants, we passed on, ascended the steep mountain on the north side, and kept on our way.”  (Ellis, 1826)

“The country was fertile, and seemed populous, though the houses were scattered, and more than three or four seldom appeared together. The streams of water were frequent, and a large quantity of ground was cultivated on their banks, and in the vicinity.”  (Ellis, 1826)

Pololū Large valley, Wai-piʻo qd., Hawaiʻi. Lit., long spear, Pukui, Mary Kawena, et al. Place Names of Hawaii.

Pukui, Mary Kawena, et al. Place Names of Hawaii. Rev. and enl. Ed., University Press of Hawaii, 1974.

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Pololū Beach is considered by many residents and visitors as one of the most beautiful locations to see the black sands of Hawaiʻi island.

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Pololū is one of three primary quarry sites for the material for stone adzes on the Island of Hawaiʻi (Mauna Kea and Kilauea Volcano, the other two.)  Stones beside the mainstream on the valley floor were used. In general, the Pololū material is coarser-grained than stone from Mauna Kea.  (Withrow)

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According to early research done by J S Field & M W Graves standard 14C dating. "The results indicate a chronology for Pololū that spans the 12th–19th centuries AD. The Pololu Dunes, located at the mouth of the valley, provided the earliest evidence for occupation during the 12th and 13th centuries AD. Occupation in the valley interior (site 4838) dates to the 14th and 15th centuries, and dryland cultivation throughout the valley is similarly dated to this period. The timing of this transition has a corollary in the expansion of the Kohala Field System in leeward Kohala. Cultivation of the marsh’s edge may have developed about AD 1200; however, the most secure dates for irrigated cultivation date to the 17th century at the earliest. The occurrence of strata of clay, silt, and alluvium in test excavations throughout the valley suggests that irrigated cultivation was episodic, and some dryland fields were converted to wetlands during wetter periods. In sum, the archaeological research at Pololū has revealed a prehistory that was dynamic and unique. The addition of precise chronological data places Pololu Valley firmly into the earliest regional models that are being developed for Hawaiian prehistory. The analysis of pre-existing collections and new research has the potential to reveal much about Pololu’s prehistory and also link this remote valley to demographic and sociopolitical trends that were occurring in the rest of Hawai‘i".

Field, J. S., & Graves, M. W. (2008). A new chronology for Pololu Valley, Hawai'i Island: Occupational history and agricultural development. Radiocarbon, 50(2), 205-222

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Field, Julie & Graves, Michael. (2008). A New Chronology for Pololu Valley, Hawai'i Island: Occupational History and Agricultural Development. RADIOCARBON. 50. 205-222. 10.1017/S003382220003352X.

https://www.google.com/maps/@20.1916884,-155.7338201,4116m/data=!3m1!1e3?entry=ttu

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Master Kanaka Artist Herb Kawainui Kāne, depicts a version of a human chain carrying rocks from Pololū Valley for the building of Puʻukoholā Heiau.

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Ancient stones that were used to build Puʻukohola Heiau, located in South Kohala.

The building of this Heiau was completed in 1791. It is believed that many of the stones on Puʻukoholā Heiau are believed to have come from Pololū Valley.

According to Thrum, Kapoukahi instructed Kamehameha “to build a large heiau for his god at Puʻukoholā, adjoining the old heiau of Mailekini.” King Kamehameha and his men formed a human chain nearly 20 miles long and passed the stones from one person to another, all the way to the current Heiau site. It is estimated that the human chain from Pololū Valley to Puʻukohola had somewhere between 10,000-20,000 men carrying stones from Pololū Valley to Kawaihae. (NPS)

According to Historian Samuel Kamakau, Kamehameha “…summoned his counselors and younger brothers, chiefs of the family and chiefs of the guard, all the chiefs, lesser chiefs, and commoners of the whole district. Not one was allowed to be absent except the women. . . ."The building of the heiau of Puʻu-koholā was, as in ancient times, directed by an expert and by a member of the class called hulihonua who knew the configuration of the earth (called kuhikuhi puʻuone) …”

https://imagesofoldhawaii.com/pu%ca%bbukohola-heiau-kawaihae-south-kohala-hawai%ca%bbi/

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Puʻukoholā Heiau, Kawaihae, South Kohala, Hawaiʻi

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One of the most famous heiau in Hawaiʻi is Puʻukoholā Heiau (“whale hill”,) a significant structure (224-feet by 100-feet) with walled ends, and open and terraced on the makai side – si…

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Hawaiian Historians believe Kamehameha the Great was born in Kokoiki, North Kohala, island of Hawai‘i. The exact year of his birth is not clear, he was likely born in November 1758 because of the appearance of Halley’s comet during his birth. His birth chant, in part, tells of “thunder and lightning, cold wind and rain; a hōkū welowelo, Commet shines above.” Astronomers know that Halley’s comet was seen in 1758.

Because of the prophecy, Kamehameha was seen as a threat to the ruling Aliʻi at the time who did not want this child to live. The future King was carried on a perilous journey through Kohala and Pololū Valley to Awini. The infant child Kamehameha, was secretly taken where he was cared for by his kahu (guardian) until he was a young boy. Some believe Kamehameha also spent much of his teen years in Pololū. Some historians also believe Kamehameha also spent much of his teen years in Pololū Valley.

Bibliography

Beggerly, Patricia Price. Prehistoric Occupation of the Pololu Valley Dune, Hawaii. [publisher not identified], 1974.

Dye TS. 1994b. Population trends in Hawai‘i before 1778. The Hawaiian Journal of History 28:1–20.

Ellis W. 1969. Polynesian Researches. Rutland: Charles E. Tuttle Co. 407

Field, Julie S., and Michael W. Graves. “A New Chronology for Pololu Valley, Hawai’i Island: Occupational History and Agricultural Development.” Radiocarbon, vol. 50, no. 2, 2008, pp. 205–22, https://doi.org/10.1017/S003382220003352X.

Tuggle, H. David, et al. Windward Kohala-Hamakua Archaeological Zone, Island of Hawaii. [publisher not identified], 1976.

McPherson, Michael. Pololu. 1994.

“The Big Island’s Royal Enclave.” New York Times (Online), 2000.

Thrum, Thomas G. (Thomas George). Thomas G. Thrum Collection, 1875-1932. 1875.

Presley, Todd K, Geological Survey (U.S.), and Hawaii Island (Hawaii). Department of Water Supply. The Geohydrologic Setting of Pololu Stream, Island of Hawaii, Hawaii. Honolulu, Hawaii: U.S. Dept. of the Interior, U.S. Geological Survey , 1999.

Lass, Barbara. Hawaiian Adze Production and Distribution: Implications for the Development of Chiefdoms. Cotsen Institute of Archaeology Press at UCLA, 1994. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvhhhfrr. Accessed 30 July 2024.

Tuggle, H. David, and M. J. Tomonari-Tuggle. “Prehistoric Agriculture in Kohala, Hawaii.” Journal of Field Archaeology, vol. 7, no. 3, 1980, pp. 297–312. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/529593. Accessed 30 July 2024.

Charlot, Jean. Selections from Fornander’s Hawaiian Antiquities and Folk-Lore. Edited by Samuel H Elebert, University of Hawai’i Press, 1959. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctvvn29x. Accessed 30 July 2024.

https://www.lovebigisland.com/wp-content/uploads/pololu-aerial-edited.jpg

https://imagesofoldhawaii.com/it-was-a-dark-and-stormy-night/

https://imagesofoldhawaii.com/?s=pololu

Pukui, Mary Kawena, et al. Place Names of Hawaii. Rev. and enl. Ed., University Press of Hawaii, 1974.

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Picture courtecy of the Kauaʻi Historical Society

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The Ahupuaʻa of Hanapēpē is located on the island of Kauaʻi, in the Kona district. The once verdant valley was known for its abundant fresh water. Freshwater sustained the people and their way of living. The water was used for farming in the valley. The ancient Kanaka that lived in the Ahupuaʻa of Hanapēpē, were farmers, fishermen, and salt makers.

Today, salt makers continue this way of preserving their ancient way for more than seven generations. A special small group of people from Hanapēpē were also responsible for preserving and keeping the ancient tradition of Hula alive. During the years that Hawaiians were forbidden to practice hula, they continued to practice Hula in secret. This report features parts of an interview with a Native Hawaiian Kupuna from Hanapēpē. She shares some of her memories growing up in Hanapepe ahupuaʻa, where she still lives today.

“Hana-pepehi”, according to Gabriel I (March 14, 1992) and KCC Kumu Ilei Beniamina (March 15, 1992) is the correct name for this ahupuaʻa.

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The ancient valley was known for an abundance of water that came from the very top of the valley also supplied by natural aquifers, and Manawaiopuna (stream branch of Puna). The 200-foot waterfall is at the lower end of Kōʻula and is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Hawaiʻi.

The Kō'ula River is the largest tributary of the Hanapēpē River on the island of Kauai. It rises at 4,642 ft (1415 meters) on the slopes of Mt. Waialeale and flows generally south for 9.2 miles to its confluence with the Manuahi Stream.[1][2] Beyond this point, it is known as the Hanapēpē River.[3] The river has a long-term mean discharge of 85.2 cubic feet (0.99 cubic meters) per second.[4]

1.  U.S. Geological Survey Geographic Names Information System: Kō'ula River

2. ^ "Hanapepe River, Kauai Watershed features" (PDF). Retrieved September 11, 2022.

3. ^ Koula River. "Koula River Topo Map, Kauai County HI (Hanapepe Area)". Topozone.com. Retrieved 2018-01-22.

4. ^ "USGS 16047000 KOULA RIVER AT KOULA NR ELEELE,KAUAI,HI". Waterdata.usgs.gov. Retrieved 2018-01-22.

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Famous is the Ahupuaʻa of Hanapēpē for its ancient salt beds. Today the old traditional ways and harvesting salt are practiced with no modern technology or shortcuts. The natural sunlight combined with physical labor required to sift and clean the salt beds until they are just right. They allow the sunlight to dry and crystalize the beds, hopefully, it becomes what we locals refer to as "Paʻa Kai" or Hawaiian Salt. The sea salt that they collect is used for several purposes but primarily for seasoning and food preservation. Preserving food like fresh seafood was essential for storage on land. These ancient salt beds are harvested through the use of man-made shallow clay ponds. The families that continue to malama the salt beds are hard-working and like their Kupuna, they thrive in this Ahupuaʻa. Today the salt is still harvested by the same Ohana, who have been doing this for generations. The process is hard labor and patience and sometimes disappointment when a harvest season or several seasons are not good. These families of Hanapēpē Kauaʻi treasure their salt beds and their Kūleana. No one ever sells the salt that is harvested and if you are fortunate you will be given a makana, a bag, or a bucket of paʻa kai. A truly authentic Hawaiian gift.

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Historical Picture of a large Hukilau that would bring anyone that wanted a Mahele (harvest) of fish to come down and help fish pull nets and later help to untangle the fish that is trapped in the nets. Each person who helps at the Hukilau is certain to go home with fish for their Ohana. This was an old tradition that was often found in an Ahupuaʻa like Hanapēpē. The resources from Mauka to Makai were certain to sustain and take care of the people of this Ahupuaʻa.

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Royal Court Dancers were all from Hanapēpe Kauaʻi

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According to several Kupuna residents of Hanapēpē Kauaʻi, they recall Hula present in their childhoods. Hula was being taught in their backyards and their homes. why does this matter? Well Hula at different times in the history of Hawaiʻi, Hula was banned.

1830

Queen Kaʻahumanu, a Christian convert and regent, banned public hula performances. However, after Kaʻahumanu died in 1832, people began performing the hula in public again.

1859

A law was passed in the Hawaiian kingdom that effectively banned hula performances.

1870

The government eased restrictions on hula, allowing public performances outside of Honolulu and Lāhainā, and reducing fines and fees.

1874

King Kalākaua officially declared that hula could be performed in public again, and it was performed at his coronation in 1883 and a jubilee celebration in 1886.

It was through the Kaʻaikapu Ohana and Kupuna Momi Kaohi Kaleohano that we know this to be accurate historical facts. She remembers a time when Hula was done in secret. Hula never stopped and was taught in secret and the children would peek through the holes in their single-wall plantation-style homes to see the people dancing what we know as Hula Kahiko.

Kupuna Aunty Momi born and raised in Hanapēpē where she lives today, shares her childhood memories of her older sisters and her Mom who was a Kumu Hula. They all learned the ancient Hula of Kauaʻi. She remembers they had black curtains around the large room so no one could see them dancing inside. Aunty Momi recalls she didnʻt know that Hula was banned. She also remembered the names of the dancers we see today in these pictures taken and preserved from Kalakauaʻs Paʻina. Her older sister was one of court dancers in the pictures. She shares that several of the old-time Merry Monarch Judges like the late Kumu Kaui Zuttermister, George Holokai, Lokalia Montgomery, and many others would come to Hanapēpē and stay at their home for days or weeks to learn Hula Kahiko. There was also another Kumu from this area of Hanapēpē his name was Kaiʻakapu Malule who also carried on the ancient tradition of Hula. Thankfully these brave Kanaka preserved the ancient Hula. They are heroes of Hula for the generations today and Hula Lives!

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Royal Court dancers from Hanapepe Kauaʻi

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Royal Court Dancers from Hanapēpē Kauaʻi 

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In 1885 Hula Dancers from Hanapepe, Kauai, performed Hula on Oahu at a Birthday celebration for King David Kalakaua, also known as the Merrie Monarch. Hula was banned until he allowed it to return due to his playful spirit and love for the ancient tradtion of Hula and art. (Picture Courtesy of the Hawaii State Archives).

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Royal Court of Kalakaua dancers from Hanapepe Kauaʻi.

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It is not certain but a group on horseback is heading up the Hanapēpē valley to to see the beautiful Manawaiopuna Falls.

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Beautiful Manawaiopuna Falls located in the back of Hanapēpē Valley.

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Bibliography

Pearson, Richard J. The Extent of Hawaiian Taro Patches in the Hanapepe Valley, Kauai. Publisher not identified, 1960.

Barrera, William. Archaeological Walkthrough Reconnaissance of the Location of Two Water Wells and Their Access Road in Hanapepe Valley, Kauai. Chiniago Inc., 1981.

https://citations.library.manoa.hawaii.edu/items/show/45782 CARL3758273438

Senda, W. J. Hanapepe Valley on Kauai. 119AD.

http://www.ahamoku.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/M7KauaiRasterFile-1.png

https://ulukau.org/cgi-bin/vicki?a=d&d=C10349

Gartley Photo. Hanapepe Valley, Island of Kauai. 119AD.

Pukui, Mary Kawena, and Ethel M. (Ethel Moseley) Damon. Four Kauai Chants. Kauaʻi Historical Society, 1994.

Paradise of the Pacific. Press Pub. Co., 1888.

https://imagesofoldhawaii.com/hanapepe-salt-ponds/

Ancient Art of Salt Making. [Delta Kappa Gamma, International Eta Chapter].

Wichman, Frederick B. Kauaʻi : Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories. University of Hawaiʻi Press, 1998.

Keawehawaii, Karen, et al. Flora and Fauna of Kauaʻi ; Nāpali, Ka Hoʻomanaio ʻana ; The Saltmakers ; Kuleana Wai : Water Rights ; Willy Pulawa, Kumu Hula. [Wong Audiovisual Center, University of Hawaii at Manoa], 2017.

Hanapepe Group Acts to Save Ancient Craft. 1966.

Beyette, B. Hanapepe, Kauai. LA Times. April 18, 2010.

On Walkabout In: Hanapepe, Kauai. Dobbs. April 27, 2014.

Senussi, A.M. Ancient Hawaiian Salt-Making at the Ponds of Hanapepe. Marine Option Program, Kauai Community College, 1982.

https://evols.library.manoa.hawaii.edu/search?query=hanapepe

www.hanapepe.org