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I’m not sure exactly who came up with the name”Debris Hut” but it is a term used quite often within the wilderness survival community. In essence, a Debris Hut is a shelter style that consists of a basic stick built framework that is then layered with branches, vines, and smaller sticks.

Step # 1 is to build a basic framework using solid sturdy hardwood sticks, saplings or limbs. In the photo below I’ve built a very simple “SPINE” style framework using a 2 forked sticks to make a A frame opening which will be the door and a long sturdy limb for the peak of the roof. No lashing of any kind is required in this style framework.

Survival Shelter Debris Hut Stick Framework
Survival Shelter Debris Hut Stick Framework

Once you’ve got a basic framework and have added some “RIBS” to the each side of the shelter, your next step is to weave a tight latticework of branches and vine that can hold all of the leaves, grass and debris that you will be piling on top. You can see a top view of the lattice work I’ve made in the photo below.

Wilderness Survival Debris Hut - Mid-Stage
Wilderness Survival Debris Hut - Mid-Stage

Ultimately, once a pretty solid lattice work is built, the final phase is to pile as much debris on top to help insulate and water proof the shelter. “Debris” in the wilderness can be a variety of things: grass, hay, cattails, leaves, bark, etc… In the shelter that I built for this demonstration (photo below) you can see that I used a lot of cattails. Under this outer layer of cattails is probably 1-2 feet thick of leaves and grass. The thicker the outside layer of leaves and grass the better your shelter will insulate you from the outside weather. On the flip-side… the colder the weather is, the more debris you will need. Even with 2 foot think debris on this shelter I was still pretty chilly in the upper 30 degree weather that night. I did, however, only have a wool sweater to wear.

Survival Shelter Debris Hut Using Cattails

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I'm not sure exactly who came up with the name"Debris Hut" but it is a term used quite often within the wilderness survival community. In essence, a Debris Hut is a shelter style that consists of a basic stick built framework that is then layered with branches, vines, and smaller sticks.

Step # 1 is to build a basic framework using solid sturdy hardwood sticks, saplings or limbs. In the photo below I've built a very simple "SPINE" style framework using a 2 forked sticks to make a A frame opening which will be the door and a long sturdy limb for the peak of the roof. No lashing of any kind is required in this style framework.

Once you've got a basic framework and have added some "RIBS" to the each side of the shelter, your next step is to weave a tight latticework of branches and vine that can hold all of the leaves, grass and debris that you will be piling on top. You can see a top view of the lattice work I've made in the photo below.

Ultimately, once a pretty solid lattice work is built, the final phase is to pile as much debris on top to help insulate and water proof the shelter. "Debris" in the wilderness can be a variety of things: grass, hay, cattails, leaves, bark, etc... In the shelter that I built for this demonstration (photo below) you can see that I used a lot of cattails. Under this outer layer of cattails is probably 1-2 feet thick of leaves and grass. The thicker the outside layer of leaves and grass the better your shelter will insulate you from the outside weather. On the flip-side... the colder the weather is, the more debris you will need. Even with 2 foot think debris on this shelter I was still pretty chilly in the upper 30 degree weather that night. I did, however, only have a wool sweater to wear.
Like what you see?? Click here to subscribe to the WillowHavenOutdoor.com Feed by Email. I've got some really exciting posts in the pipe-line that you don't want to miss out on... Thanks! Creek

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Wilderness Survival Debris Hut - WillowHavenOutdoor Survival Skills

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I'm not sure exactly who came up with the name"Debris Hut" but it is a term used quite often within the wilderness survival community. In essence, a Debris Hut is a shelter style that consists of a basic stick built framework that is then layered with branches, vines, and smaller sticks.

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Add ribbing sticks to the ridgepole spine. Gather several large armfuls of sticks of various lengths. The sticks should be a minimum of two finger widths thick, and strong enough to support the weight of the debris you’ll be placing over them. Ribbing sticks need to span the distance between the ridgepole and the ground, but not extend past the ridgepole. Set them along the ridgepole as close to each other as possible to prevent debris from falling through later on.

Place the ribbing sticks on the ridgepole at about a 45-degree angle. Any steeper, and the exterior debris will likely slide off; any shallower, and water will probably penetrate. The top ends of the rib sticks shouldn’t project more than 2 or 3 inches past the ridgepole, because this can channel water into the shelter during heavy rain. Remember to leave a space for a door.

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Julian - Best material for making shelter

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Julian - Best material for making shelter

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In this website it says that the best resources to make a shelter are Tree Branches, Leaves, and Mud/Clay, to make a shelter.

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The most deadly factor in any survival situation: lack of preparation. If you unexpectedly need to build a shelter in the wilderness, your experience and understanding of your environment may be the only tool you have.

Be proactive and keep reading to learn how to build a survival shelter-in any condition-no matter what your resources are. This guide will equip you with the most important tool you need: knowledge.

What is a Survival Shelter?

A survival shelter is any structure (naturally occurring or man-made) that can protect you from animals, insects, and the elements. Survival shelters can range from dugout snow tunnels to A-frame wooden structures. Shelters come in many forms and serve a variety of purposes, but one thing is certain: it's near impossible to survive without them.

Wilderness Survival Shelters

If you know the rule of 3's, you understand just how important dependable shelter is. As the saying goes, "You can't survive 3 hours without shelter in a harsh environment."

When you're caught in a snowstorm or stranded in the desert heat without shelter, the clock begins counting down to a serious situation that could ultimately cost you your life.

No matter where you are, rain and moisture are often your deadliest enemy. When you're wet, it's extremely difficult to stay warm. This is one of many reasons why it's so important to make sure that your shelter is waterproof and dry.

Of course, it might not always be possible to stay 100% dry with the limited resources you're given-and the type of shelter you're able to find or create-but there are some techniques that can help:

Elevating your bed: No matter what your environment is, you should always elevate your bed off the ground if you can. Not only is it an important part of staying dry, but there are bugs to worry about as well.

Find coverage: If you're lucky, you may be able to find natural coverage and protection from the rain. Large trees and caves can be a lifesaver if you don't have the natural resources or time to build your own shelter.

No matter what happens, do everything you can to stay dry. Once you're drenched to the bone, getting dry and regulating your body temperature will become extremely difficult.

Tree Branch Survival Shelters

Tree branches are fantastic building materials for a survival shelter. Whenever possible, avoid exerting energy to shape and cut them. Doing so may quickly exhaust you, so avoid expending too much effort until you have a reliable source of water and food.

Round Lodge: Structurally, the round shelter is quite similar to a tipi. However, a round lodge has the potential for a solid doorway and slightly better insulation. One of the greatest benefits of a round lodge is that it can accommodate for a smoke hole at the top.

Debris Survival Shelter: Debris survival shelters come in a variety of structural designs, but the most common is an A-frame. Natural debris, such as tree foliage and dead leaves, can be utilized to insulate your shelter and protect you from the elements.

Keep in mind that your debris won't hold your shelter together nor withhold its strength against strong wind. Incorporate mud (or clay if available) into your structure to make it sturdier.

Tips for Building a Survival Shelter in the Forest: The forest is often full of incredibly useful resources to build a shelter with. Fallen tree branches, leaves, and mud/clay can be found in most forests, and make for incredible building materials.

When you're in the forest, look for materials that require little to no alterations (especially when you don't have tools) to build your structures. For a tutorial on how to build a shelter with no tools, check out this video.

Tarp Survival Shelters

If you're fortunate enough to have a tarp with you in a serious survival situation, there are a handful of different shelters that you can make:

Tarp Wing: A tarp wing provides partial coverage from the elements, especially rain.

When combined with a fire, a partial wing can provide you with the protection and warmth needed to survive in nature for a brief period. It's best to use a tarp wing as a temporary structure while you build a larger one.

A-Frame Tarp: An A-frame shelter is triangular in shape and typically utilizes tools such as sticks, rope, and a tarp. It provides protection from sun, rain, and wind, but provides little assistance in terms of insulation or warmth.

To build an A-frame shelter, tie a string between two trees and drape the tarp over the string. Make sure you weight the edges of the tarp with rocks or a heavy log so that the wind doesn't blow it away.

Wedge Tarp: A wedge tarp is ideal for windy conditions and can be created with limited natural resources. By staking or tying down the corners of your tarp and propping up the center section, you can create a makeshift shelter in no time at all. Creating a wedge tarp is one of the many uses of a paracord if you have one handy in your survival gear supplies.

Tarp Burrito: If all you have is a tarp and there aren't any tools or resources to help you build your ideal structure, a tarp burrito will do the trick. Simply roll yourself up in a "burrito" with your tarp and try to cover as much of your body as possible. Lay down leaves, moss, and soft branches underneath your tarp to enhance insulation.

Cold Weather Survival Shelters

Exposure to the elements can have deadly consequences. Staying warm is incredibly difficult when you have little more than the clothes on your back, but regulating your body temperature is one of the most important elements of survival.

Using nearby materials for insulation: If your environment provides them, use resources like mud, leaves, tree branches, and moss to insulate your structure. You need to trap as much heat as possible while protecting yourself from the elements.

Insulating the ground: Laying directly on the ground will cause you to lose massive amounts of body heat. Insulating the surface you plan to sleep on is essential to your survival. Consider using straight branches and pieces of wood to elevate your bed.

If you don't have tools to create a bed, simply lay branches, grass, leaves, and other debris to hold in warm air and prevent the ground from absorbing all of your warmth.

Building a fire in the wilderness: If you use an existing cave shelter, think twice before starting a fire inside of it. This can smoke you out and the heat can cause rocks to move and collapse on you.

For man-made structures, building a fire inside is fine as long as you create an opening at the top for the smoke to leave.

How do you build a fire in the wilderness? Starting a fire when you don't have matches or a lighter is no small feat. With the right knowledge and even just a few common objects, starting a fire from scratch is possible.

Regardless of the method you use, a tinder nest is essential. A typical tinder nest is comprised of dry shrubbery and other light, flammable materials. If you have a plastic bag filled with water or eyeglasses, you can use them to focus sunlight and ignite your tinder nest.

Another strategy is to create a small bow using string or vine and looping a stick in it. Place the stick between two pieces of wood or bark and use the bow to spin the vertical stick back and forth; if you create enough friction, you can make embers.

Make sure your tinder nest is handy and you have a larger pile of materials to burn after it's ignited.

Tips for Building Survival Shelter in Cold Weather Climates: Cold weather climates and environments are often wetter than warmer ones. Starting a fire when there is too much moisture in the air creates an added challenge. If you need to start a fire inside of a cave, just make sure that you have a safe way to carry your fire outside.

Snow Shelters

Certain snowy environments, such as high elevation mountains, call for structures that are almost entirely comprised of ice and snow. If you've been dropped into a snowstorm, you may only have a few hours to create a structure before it's too late.

Quinzhee: Essentially, a quinzhee is a large pile of snow that has been hallowed out for living quarters. While sleeping inside a big pile of snow might seem crazy, it's often the best way to protect yourself from the harsh elements in a snowy environment.

Pile up snow to about 7 or 8 feet tall and hollow out the inside. If possible, include straight branches in the roof of your quinzhee for added strength.

Make sure your quinzhee maintains a rounded shape to prevent collapsing (especially when there is heavy snowfall).

Snow Cave: If done correctly, a snow cave is a great shelter for cold weather climates. However, if done improperly, a snow cave may put you at serious risk.

Never build a snow cave from soft snow or powder. Find snow that is hard and ice-like, then dig a tunnel to a space that you can hollow out.

Igloo: Unlike a snow cave or a quinzhee, the igloo is primarily comprised of ice rather than snow. To build an igloo, you will need some sort of tool to break apart and create makeshift ice blocks.

To get started, check the density of the frozen blocks of snow or ice that you plan on using. Outline your igloo with a stick so that it maintains its shape as you build upwards.

Cut one layer of blocks at a time so that you can easily tapper and shape them inward as you build upwards.

Tips for Building Survival Shelter in Snowy Conditions: The most important aspect of your shelter is its ability to block out the elements and keep you warm, but making sure your cold weather shelter has proper ventilation is important, as well. CO2 poisoning is a serious threat in any enclosed shelter.

Desert Shelters

Building a shelter in the desert requires a great deal of creativity and/or supplies. Whenever desert camping or hiking, it's best to come prepared with supplies because it can be one of the most difficult environments to survive in.

Ramada: A Ramada is a simple structure which typically consists of a roof with no walls. The Ramada's primary purpose is to supply sun protection.

Tips for Building Survival Shelter in the Desert: Depending on the desert, you may be limited by your available resources. Look for any dry shrubbery that can be used to build any kind of primitive structure and provide shade. If you have a tarp, use the same strategies you would to build a shelter in the forest.

Packing a Survival Tent

The best way to create a survival shelter is to be prepared with the right materials.

The SEVENTY2 Survival bag includes a Mylar tent that reflects infrared heat, helping to retain warmth. Its waterproof characteristics keep you protected from moisture and precipitation.

In any survival situation the best thing to be is prepared. If you don't have an emergency survival bag for all of your backpacking, camping, and Cessna flights, it's time to get one.

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How to Build a Survival Shelter (Best Shelter Designs Explained)

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The most deadly factor in any survival situation: lack of preparation. If you unexpectedly need to build a shelter in the wilderness, your experience and understanding of your environment may be the only tool you have. Be proactive and keep reading to learn how to build a survival shelter-in any condition-no matter what your resources are.

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Voter guides can tell you about the candidates and their background information to make sure you make the right choice.

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Integrity

Delegation

Communication

Self-Awareness

Gratitude

Learning Agility

Influence

Empathy

Courage

Respect

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What are the characteristics of a good leader? We've found that great leaders possess these 10 core leadership traits.

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Raw acorns are not good to eat.But if you rinse it very well you will be able to eat it

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The best materials to insulate a shelter

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The best materials to insulate a shelter

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In large amounts leaves are great for insulating shelter ,and keeping you warm. Small sticks, ferns, tree branches, grass, and pine needles are also examples of natural debris that can be used to insulate your shelter and provide cover. But leaves are the best at insulating a shelter, so unless you don't have leaves always use them for insulation.

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Voting is a right that we have and you need to use it. When you vote you can affect your taxes, your child's education, your paycheck, your healthcare, your social security, your neighborhoods safety, and the highways you drive on. We count on you to vote because there won't be someone else to vote for when you don't. Your vote can change things for the better and there are people counting on your vote to help those changes happen.

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Si no votas, no podrás participar en cómo se maneja el país
Sin voto no tienes voz

Hay poder en los números

Incrementar el número de votantes en cada elección significa una mejor representación, más ayuda económica para nuestras comunidades y una mejor calidad de vida. A los políticos solo les llama la atención dos cosas, el dinero y los votos. Si trabajamos juntos como comunidad e incrementamos nuestros votos, nuestros Legisladores Estatales y Nacionales escucharan nuestras necesidades. Aspectos como la educación, servicios médicos, inmigración, infraestructura, economía, veteranos, etc. son afectados por nuestro voto.

Vamos crear un cambio positivo!

Al trabajar juntos para incrementar el voto, nuestra comunidad se verá beneficiada con un crecimiento en empleos, un mejor servicio de salud, una mejor educación, mejor infraestructura, una buena economía, comunidades más seguras, y lo más importante una mejor calidad de vida para nuestras familias. Es hora de cambiar nuestro estatus y mejorar la vida de todos los que nos rodean y consideran que nuestro voto es importante, porque nuestra voz si cuenta!

10 razones para votar

Aunque vayas a la casilla de elecciones y votes solo por una persona, por ley tú voto debe tomarse en cuenta. Tu boleta no puede pasar por desapercibida o ser ignorada porque, si fuese así sería inconstitucional. En ocasiones, en las elecciones puede haber un bajo número de votos, pero aun así afectaran a tu ciudad, estado y país. Tu voto cuenta, sal a votar!

1. Votar es tu derecho!

Hay personas que han muerto por defender este derecho. No lo desperdicies! Votar es más que solo elegir a un candidato, también es elegir las pólizas correctas y las personas que reflejan tus intereses al determinar decisiones que afectaran a tu comunidad, Estado o País. Cuando tu votas, estas participando en decisiones relacionadas a la salud, inmigración, equidad de género, derecho de votar, infraestructura, empleo, educación, seguro social, seguridad para nuestras comunidades, impuestos, etc.

2. Vota para dirigir dinero federal a tu región.

Este dinero se puede invertir en educación, programas juveniles, salud, veteranos, creación de empleos, medio ambiente, etc. En el valle de Rio Grande solo 4 de 10 personas votan en las elecciones presidenciales y solo 2 de cada 10 personas votan en elecciones gubernamentales. Esto no es suficiente! Para que esta región crezca y pueda recibir financiamiento Federal, necesitamos ejercer nuestro voto.

3. Si tú no votas alguien más decidirá por ti.

El votar solo toma unos cuantos minutos pero el efecto de tu voto durara más que el término del candidato. ¿Quieres que alguien más decida por ti en leyes que afectaran a tu familia y a tu comunidad? El votar te da el poder de elegir el camino de tu Ciudad, Estado y País. Si no votas, no te quejes! Ejerce tu voto y toma la decisión antes que alguien más lo haga por ti.

4. Decide cómo hacer uso de tus impuestos.

Oficiales electo -comisionados, Gobernador, oficiales Estatales, Legisladores, Presidente, y miembros del Congreso, decidirán como pagar servicios públicos con el dinero recaudado de nuestros impuestos y como compartir el costo de los impuestos. Toma la iniciativa e infórmate sobre las aspiraciones y los valores de tus candidatos y decide quién puede manejar el dinero de tus impuestos de la mejor manera.

5. El votar afectara tu trabajo.

Al votar por un miembro del Congreso, Presidente, Gobernador y Legisladores, ellos tomaran decisiones que afectaran nuestro salario mínimo, equidad en salarios, seguridad de empleo, y el seguro médico que proveerá tu empleador.

6 Vota para mejorar la educación de tus hijos.

La mesa directiva de tu distrito escolar por la que decidas votar, también tomaran decisiones en las pólizas y en el presupuesto dirigido a la educación de tus hijos y que sin duda les afectara en su futuro. Tus Legisladores, Gobernador, miembros del Congreso y el Presidente también determinaran el costo y la calidad de las escuelas públicas e instituciones universitarias. Vota para poner la educación de nuestros hijos y nietos en buenas manos!

7. Los servicios de salud también serán afectados por el voto.

Tu voto le dará el poder al Gobernador, Legisladores y al Congreso de tomar acción y pasar o rechazar legislaciones que determinaran tu acceso a cuidados médicos. Vota y elige a personas que tengan los mejores intereses en mente. Hazlo por tus seres queridos, para que ellos también tengan a una buena calidad de servicios médicos.

8. El voto afectara el seguro social

El presidente y miembros del congreso electos tomaran decisiones relacionadas en tu salario y los servicios médicos que proveerá tu empleador. Ellos también tomaran decisiones en el incremento de costo de vida y los beneficios de tu pensión de seguro social.

9. Vota para una mejor seguridad en tu comunidad.

Oficiales electos y jurados harán decisiones día a día en leyes que afectaran a tu comunidad, autoridades locales, prevención de crimen, tráfico, y en donde construir escuelas, parques, y lugares recreacionales.

10. Vota para mejorar las calles y carreteras.

Alguna vez te has preguntado ¿por qué nuestras calles y carreteras están dañadas y a nadie parece importarle? Las personas que tú eliges para comisionados, legisladores, gobernador y miembros de congreso tomaran la decisión sobre la importancia de nuestras carreteras, el transito público que apoyaran y como pagar estos servicios. Vota para elegir a las personas que estén dispuestas a resolver estos problemas.

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¿Porque votar? Es tu derecho! - AACT Now

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Acorrding to the website prickly pear cactuses are good and healthy to eat. It will give you lots of fiber too.

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Does prickly pear cactus have health benefits?

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Have you heard about prickly pear cactus? Find out about some surprising health benefits of this versatile plant.

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1
Choose a sturdy noose material, preferably wire. To build a noose, the most effective material to use is wire.[1] You can use anything as long as it's flexible and not too thin or brittle. It must quickly and easily tighten. There are a number of wire types you can choose from:
Craft wire
Headphone wire
Stripped wires from cars
An uncoiled spring
Step 2 Use string or cord if you don’t have wire.
2
Use string or cord if you don’t have wire. Make sure it's strong enough to hold a small (5-8 lbs; 2.5-3.5 kg) animal. If it snaps under your own strength, it probably won't work. The following items are suitable for a snare trap if you don't have or can't find wire near you.
Shoelaces
Dental floss
Fishing line
Step 3 Consider the tools found in nature if you don’t have string or cord.
3
Consider the tools found in nature if you don’t have string or cord. That means stringy tree bark and plant fibers. It's going to be more work, but if primitive cultures did it, so can you.
Milkweed
Dogbane
Cattail[1]
Step 4 Scout out the area.
4
Scout out the area. A snare can be used day or night, rain or shine, and in any climate. All you need to make sure of is that animals pass by more than once in a blue moon. Placing random snares with no eye for signs of small game is a waste of time.[2]
Look for signs of game in droppings, shelters, tracks, scratches, and signs of feeding.
A significant source of water and food for the area is a safe bet as well.
Step 5 Pick your "engine".
5
Pick your "engine". Now that you've found the general area you want to build your snare in, look above you. What sort of trees do you have to work with? The tree will be the beef of your machinery.[3]
Find a sapling (a young tree) that is strong enough yet bendy. Keep in mind, it must be able to hold the game high in the air until you find it.
If no saplings are around, look for a large tree limb and decent-sized rock. This is an alternate method that uses the same idea but doesn't require a bendable, well-placed sapling.
Part
2
Building a Hook Trigger

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Step 1 Carve a mouth, or hook, into two sticks.
1
Carve a mouth, or hook, into two sticks. Think of linking your own hands together (fingernails tucked into the other hand) and pulling your elbows apart. That is the tension you'll be using.[4]
The base should be longer than the hook and a bit sturdier.
The hook can be small--as long as it fits into the mouth of the base.
Step 2 Plant the base into the ground.
2
Plant the base into the ground. It is easier to drive into the ground if you carve it into a peg shape first. The point breaks the soil much more quickly.
The base should be very close to the sapling you scouted out; the two will work in tandem.
Step 3 Tie your cord around a bendable sapling.
3
Tie your cord around a bendable sapling. Make a knot that will not come off, even under tension. It should be about 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) from the top, depending on the strength of the sapling.
Test it before you assume it's sturdy. Remember: the animal will be struggling.
Step 4 Attach the other end of your cord to the hook.
4
Attach the other end of your cord to the hook. Place the hook in mouth of base. Right now, the base should be the only thing preventing the hook from flying up into the air and the sapling straightening out.[5]
Make sure your cord is the proper length. When the hook is in place, the sapling should be bent towards a 90 degree angle. When the hook is removed, it should straighten up again (dangling the animal).
Step 5 Tie a noose to the bottom of the hook.
5
Tie a noose to the bottom of the hook. Again, make sure the knot is securely in place. At this point, the hook should have two cords attached: one to the noose and one to the sapling.
Step 6 Arrange your noose.
6
Arrange your noose. The snare is in place. All that's left is arranging a noose, filling it with bait, and snaring your game.[6]
Make the noose wide enough that it won't miss your target. You can spread it out on the ground with small twigs or pebbles; they won't interfere with it flying up when the animal is caught. It can be a good idea to prop the noose up with some sticks, especially if you are snaring at a game trail.

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Download Article

Download Article

Next time you get lost camping, want to impress your friends, or get chosen for the Hunger Games, knowing how to make a snare trap can be a great way to impress or survive. There are a few different methods to catching small game outlined here to help you survive another Great Depression or just get you out of the camper.

Add New Question

What is the animal putting weight on that causes it to be caught in the noose?

The animal puts weight on the noose it unhooks the hook and is caught when it is pulled up.

How does a hook trap work?

When an animal tries to eat the bait, the wire is pulled which unhooks the hook. The branch then straightens, pulling the animal in the air.

Does this trap kill the animal?

No, not unless you leave them in the trap for days at a time. Check your trap consistently.

See more answers

Check your surroundings before you set a snare. Are there any pets that could get caught? Any small children that could run into your trap? Here are many different variables, so check before you set the trap. Remember if anything does happen, it is your responsibility.

If the weather permits, check your snare several times a day. You don't want your prey to spoil in the heat or to be taken by other predators. And if its' alive -- well, how would you feel about dangling within an inch of your life for hours?

If moving from an area, disable all snares you've set.

Show More Tips
Thanks for submitting a tip for review!

Don't smack yourself with the tree! Ow.

If you kill it, eat it. A diseased animal is the lone exception.

This is for a survival situation only. Snare traps, makeshift and elementary, are otherwise illegal.

Tree

Wire

Bait

Sticks

Knife (if carving)

Rock (optional)

Fishing hook and line (for fishing method only)

wikiHow is a "wiki," similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 35 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 619,443 times.

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How to Make a Snare Trap (with Pictures) - wikiHow

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Next time you get lost camping, want to impress your friends, or get chosen for the Hunger Games, knowing how to make a snare trap can be a great way to impress or survive. There are a few different methods to catching small game outlined...

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To make sure water is safe to drink you can always boil it and then let the evaporated water condensate.

to boil water all you have to do is put it over a fire and watch it disappear.

you just have to make sure you can catch the water though, otherwise its gone forever

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How to waterproof and insulate a shelter

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How to waterproof and insulate a shelter

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To insulate a shelter you will need to use Fibrous plants, grasses, layers of bark, pine needles, leaves, wood, and even snow.But to waterproof it that's a whole other story. To waterproof a shelter you need leaves because, they make one of the best options for smaller shelters and if your building at the right time of the year in woodland the ground should be covered in as many as you can be bothered to pickup.

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Why sharing is important to our society (sophia)

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Why sharing is important to our society (sophia)

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This article shows me that sharing is important because it makes everyone feel special and included in different activities. This can be applied to our society because sometimes we have resources that others would find useful.

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Why sharing is important

Children need to learn to share so they can make and keep friends, play cooperatively, take turns, negotiate and cope with disappointment. Sharing teaches children about compromise and fairness. They learn that if we give a little to others, we can get some of what we want too.

Sharing is a key part of getting along with others, so it becomes more and more important when your child starts having playdates and going to child care, preschool or kindergarten.

Helping children learn about sharing

Children learn a lot from just watching what their parents do. When you model good sharing and turn-taking in your family, it gives your child a great example to follow.

Children also need opportunities to learn about and practise sharing. Here are ways to encourage sharing in everyday life:

Talk about why sharing is good for your child and others. You can say something like, 'When you share your toys with your friend, everyone gets to have fun. You might get to share your friend's toys too.

Point out good sharing in others. For example, 'Your friend was sharing her ball really well. That was very kind of her'.

When you see your child trying to share or take turns, give your child plenty of praise and attention. For example, 'I liked the way you let Aziz have a turn on the swing. Great sharing!'

Play games with your child that involve sharing and turn-taking. Talk your child through the steps, saying things like, 'Now it's my turn to play a card, and then it's your turn' or 'You share the red blocks with me, and I'll share the green blocks with you'.

Talk with your child about sharing before playdates with other children. For example, you could say, 'When Georgia comes over, you'll need to share some of your toys. Why don't we ask her what she wants to play with?' You can also talk with your child about sharing before they start child care or preschool.

Although it's important to share, it's OK for children to have some toys that they keep just for themselves. It's a good idea to put away these special toys when other children come to play at your house. This can help you avoid problems with sharing. It also shows your child that you understand some things are precious to them.

When children find it challenging to share

If your child finds sharing challenging, it's a good idea to stay nearby when your child plays with other children and encourage your child to share. When your child does try to share, you can say exactly what your child did well and how proud you are.

There's no reason to avoid playdates if your child is still learning to share. Instead, use playdates as a chance to help your child practise. You can remind your child at the start of the playdate that sharing is a good thing to do with friends. Then you can help your child and their friend to decide what toys they could share.

For children over 3 years, it can help to create consequences for not sharing.

When you use consequences for not sharing, it's important that the consequences relate to the thing that's being shared - or not shared! For example, if children aren't sharing a toy train, you might tell them you're taking the train away for 30 seconds. This will give them time to calm down and a chance to think about how to share. Then give the train back and let them try again. This gives them another chance to get it right. If they still can't share, you can take it away for longer. Neither child can play with the train, so the consequence feels the same for both of them.

Toddlers: learning to share

Your 2-year-old probably doesn't understand sharing. For example, if another child has something your child really wants, your child might not understand why they have to wait for it.

Also, sharing means children need to be able to manage their emotions, and toddlers are only starting to learn how to do this. So your child might try to take the toy they want or have a tantrum if they can't have it.

Expecting your child to be able to share at this age is probably unrealistic. And consequences for not sharing probably won't help your toddler learn to share. Instead, it's best to guide your child when they need to share. And encouragement and practice will help your child to learn.

Preschoolers: starting to understand sharing

By 3 years, many children are beginning to understand about turn-taking and sharing. For example, your child will probably understand that sharing equally is the 'fair' thing to do, but they still might not want to share if it involves giving up something. Your child might also be impatient when waiting their turn.

You can build your child's sharing skills by watching for and praising good turn-taking, encouraging fairness and explaining about sharing. Activities that involve sharing and taking turns can help - for example, choosing dress-ups together or drawing a big picture together using the same packet of crayons.

If there's trouble, it can help to ask your child how they'd feel if someone took their toy or didn't let them have a turn. Talking to your child about other people's feelings will also help your child understand things from someone else's point of view. It's best to have this conversation when your child is calm.

It's a good idea to be realistic about your child's ability to share. At this age, most children are still learning and can find it hard to understand other people's thoughts and emotions.

School-age children: sharing in tricky situations

By the time most children start school, they're beginning to understand that other people have feelings too. This means they're more likely to share and take turns, although it might still be hard for them to be patient, especially if they're very excited or upset.

School-age children also have a strong sense of fairness and might not want to share a toy or a play a game if they think they won't get a fair go. It might help to check the rules of the games your child is playing and reassure your child and others that they'll all get a turn.

At this age, your child will be much more patient and tolerant than they used to be. Your child will also be keen to do the right thing and can form more complex friendships, which helps with the idea of sharing. Your child can get a lot of practice sharing at school too - for example, sharing paints in art, or playing games together at recess or lunch.

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Learning to share can be a challenge for children, but it's key to getting along with others. Practice, encouragement and sharing games can help kids learn.

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How to make home in wild

Find some big sticks

Make the structure of the base with sticks

Find more sticks but not too big

Put the sticks on the side of base

Find some leaves

Put the leaves on the side with the sticks

Make it stable so it doesn't fall over

You’re done!

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to weave a basket out of grass you will need grass, yarn (can make out of unraveled sweater or tree bark), and a blunt needle (sticks).

Make sure your blades of grass are nice and long (this will make the weaving faster) and make a bundle about as thick as your finger and tie the yarn around the end.

after you have done this wrap the yarn around the bundle until the covered area is as wide as a few fingers.

after you have done this, keep the yarn wrapped and start to twist the grass bundle into a circle (like a snail shell).

do this until you have formed a tight circle and tie it off with the yarn.

now we will be needing the needle! continue to wrap the grass in the tight coil and seal it with the needle and yarn (sewing it together using a stitch like a slip stitch where the yarn goes around the grass you are coiling and into the stitch under it making a circle)

FOR A STURDIER BASKET TWIST GRASS THEN COIL!!!

continue doing this until the basket is a good width, then continue, just instead of sewing the new coils on the side of the preexisting coils, do it so that it is going upward.

do this until the basket is a good size then tie it off!

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There are many ways to weave a grass basket. The following technique is just one of many. Every basket weaver has his/her own preferred method. You don't have to do everything like it says in this tutorial. Grass basket weaving is so simple, you will get nice results no matter what. Dare to be creative!

Materials needed:

grass
yarn
long, blunt needle ( buy here*)

Collect an armful of grass. You can use it as is or simply let it dry for a while. The longer the blades, the better. It works with shorter blades of grass too, but it might take a little longer.

Start with a small bundle of long grass blades. The bundle should be about as thick as your finger. Tie it together with the yarn on one end.

Wrap the yarn around the end a few fingers width.

Start to coil the grass like a snail. It can be a bit stubborn in the beginning. Maybe it helps if you loosen (or tighten) the yarn a little bit more.

Form a tight loop and tie it with the yarn.

Now the fun begins! The grass is coiled and stitched together with the yarn. (I like to twist the grass as I coil it, to give the basket more density, but this step is optional)

At this point you will need a long, blunt needle. ( buy here*) To stitch the grass, wrap the yarn around the loose grass and stitch down through the grass coil just underneath the wrapped yarn. This is how the grass basket will get its stability.

The new yarn always passes through the grass and underneath the yarn. If the gaps between the stitches get too wide, just make an additional stitch.

Your bundle of grass should have the same thickness all throughout the basket. If it gets too thin, add a few new blades. It works best, if you hide the new blades in between the old ones. So the ends will stay hidden.

Work your way around the coil. Add new blades if your bundle gets too thin. Make extra stitches if the gaps get too wide.

Continue with the coil until the base has the diameter of the basket you want to make.

Take a look at your grass coil from both sides. Usually the stitches on the topside form a nice, neat pattern. The stitches underneath look a little more messy.

Before I start with the sides of the basket, I turn the coil upside down. That way the "neater" side will later be on the outside of the basket and the messier one will be on the inside.

Now you can start with the sides. For this you simply stop sewing the rounds next to each other, but start sewing them on top of each other. In the first round you can stitch them together a little off-center for a softer transition.

Always make sure that you grass basket is even. Sometimes you'll have to bend the basket a little. If the walls are higher or lower in some places, it can help to stitch down the grass a little tighter (or looser) in that area.

If you are happy with the size of the grass basket, you can stop adding new blades into your bundle.

Once your bundle starts to get very thin, you can sew up the ends slightly on the inside of your grass basket.

Secure everything with a tight knot and cut off the excess blades.

And that is all you have to do to weave a simple grass basket! It is surprisingly sturdy and keeps its shape even months later. Grass basket weaving is so much fun, that this will surely be just one of many more baskets! 🙂

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I made a whole set of them. 🙂

You can also use this techniques to make different shapes of baskets. If you want a more rounded basket, you need to stitch the rows together slightly off-center. This way you can direct the shape in- or outwards as you wish.

Try to use different materials. Straw works really well. You can get amazing results with raffia ( buy here*), rushes or other plant fibers. Even wood wool can be worked into a rustic basket.

Have a look at our new tutorial if you want to know how to make a lid for your basket: Link >>

Summary for Pinterest:

Follow us on Instagram for exclusive tutorials, creative ideas and behind the scences pics: ColorfulCraftsDIY on Instagram

*This blog post contains affiliate links. You can find additional information on our disclosure page. Link >>

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There are many ways to grass basket weaving. This simple technique is just one of many. Learn how to make your own grass basket with a step by step tutorial

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3 examples of ways to vote would be voice vote, rising vote, and a show of hands.

(You can find more on the website.)

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Deliberative assemblies - bodies that use parliamentary procedure to arrive at decisions - use several methods of voting on motions (formal proposal by members of a deliberative assembly that the assembly take certain action). The regular methods of voting in such bodies are a voice vote, a rising vote, and a show of hands. Additional forms of voting include a recorded vote and balloting.

Robert's Rules of Order Newly Revised (RONR) states that a voice vote ( viva voce) is the usual method of voting on any motion that does not require more than a majority vote for its adoption. It is considered the simplest and quickest of voting methods used by deliberative assemblies. The chair of the assembly will put the question to the assembly, asking first for those in favor of the motion to indicate so verbally ("aye" or "yes"), and then ask those opposed to the motion to indicate so verbally ("no"). The chair will then estimate which side had more members.

A simple rising vote (in which the number of members voting on each side rise to their feet) is used principally in cases in which the chair believes a voice vote has been taken with an inconclusive result, or upon a motion to divide the assembly. A rising vote is also often the normal method of voting on motions requiring a two-thirds vote for adoption. It can also be used as the first method of voting when only a majority vote is required if the chair believes in advance that a voice vote will be inconclusive. The chair can also order the rising vote to be counted. Another use is on a resolution honoring or in memory of a notable person, when the assembly stands in honor or remembrance.

A show of hands is a method of public voting, often used in small boards, committees or also informal gatherings, or some larger assemblies. Members raise their hands to indicate support for the motion, then for opposition to it. The chairperson assesses which side had the most hands, sometimes by counting them individually. This method is more precise than a voice vote and ensures that each member's vote is counted equally (no advantage for shouting louder). However, it is not a full division of the assembly, and can produce a larger number of abstentions than a rising vote.

A recorded vote is a vote in which the votes (for or against) of each member of the assembly are recorded (and often later published). RONR explains:

Taking a vote by roll call (or by yeas and nays, as it is also called) has the effect of placing on the record how each member, or sometimes each delegation, votes; therefore, it has exactly the opposite effect of a ballot vote. It is usually confined to representative bodies, where the proceeds are published, since it enables constituents to know how their representatives voted on certain measures. It should not be used in a mass meeting or in any assembly whose members are not responsible to a constituency.

Recorded votes may either be taken by actually calling the roll (a task typically ordered by the chair and performed by the secretary) or, in some assemblies, by electronic device.

A signed ballot is sometimes used as a substitute for a roll call vote. It allows the members' votes to be recorded in the minutes without the chair having to call the names of each member individually. A motion to use a signed ballot is one of the motions relating to methods of voting and the polls.

Balloting is a form of voting in which the secrecy of the member's choices is desired. Members mark their choices on pieces of paper (or electronic devices tailored for such a purpose) and deposit the paper into a ballot box. This procedure is typically the usual method in elections. Robert's Rules of Order states that if a candidate does not receive a majority vote, the balloting is repeated until a candidate obtains a majority vote. Exceptions to this rule must be stated in the organization's rules. Such exceptions may include preferential voting, cumulative voting, and runoffs.

Repeated balloting is done when no candidate achieves a majority vote. In this case, no candidates are involuntarily eliminated. Mason's Manual states, "In the absence of a special rule, a majority vote is necessary to elect officers and a plurality is not sufficient. A vote for the election of officers, when no candidate receives a majority vote, is of no effect, and the situation remains exactly as though no vote had been taken." Demeter's Manual states, "The fact that a majority (or a plurality) of the votes are cast for an ineligible candidate does not entitle the candidate receiving the next highest number of votes to be declared elected. In such a case, the voters have failed to make a choice, and they proceed to vote again."

Repeated balloting allows a dark horse or compromise candidate, who received few votes in the first round, to become the candidate that opposing factions agree to settle on. Moreover, it can prevent a candidate who is opposed by the majority of the electorate from being elected, as might happen under plurality.

A disadvantage is that if no one drops out of the race, and the voters are unwilling to switch sides, balloting can theoretically go on forever. In the U.S. presidential election of 1800, Thomas Jefferson and Aaron Burr were tied at 73 electoral votes each, and in accordance with the Constitution the election was determined via a contingent election in the House of Representatives, where it took six days of debate and 36 ballots to elect Jefferson as the winner.

Between rounds of balloting, members can make motions to help the assembly complete the election within a reasonable time. For instance, the assembly may vote to drop the candidate having the lowest vote after each successive vote, or reopen nominations for the office in order to secure a candidate on whom the majority can agree. This can help break a deadlock. In the 1855-56 election for Speaker of the House, the chamber, which had been deadlocked for 129 ballots, adopted a plurality rule stating that, if after three more ballots no one garnered a majority of the votes, the person receiving the highest number of votes on the next ensuing ballot would be declared to have been chosen speaker. On the decisive 133rd ballot, Nathaniel P. Banks received the most votes, 103 votes out of 214, or five less than a majority, and was elected speaker.

Preferential voting allows members to vote on more than one proposal or candidate at a time, and to rank the various options in order of preference.

Robert's Rules of Order states that preferential voting "affords less freedom of choice than repeated balloting, because it denies voters the opportunity of basing their second or lesser choices on the results of earlier ballots, and because the candidate or proposition in last place is automatically eliminated and may thus be prevented from becoming a compromise choice." In any case, preferential voting can be used only if the bylaws specifically authorize it. Elimination of the candidate with fewest votes is a feature of instant runoff voting, but not of all preferential voting methods.

Cumulative voting allows members to cast more than one vote for a candidate.

Regarding this method of voting, RONR states, "A minority group, by coordinating its effort in voting for only one candidate who is a member of the group, may be able to secure the election of that candidate as a minority member of the board. However, this method of voting, which permits a member to cast multiple votes for a single candidate, must be viewed with reservation since it violates the fundamental principle of parliamentary law that each member is entitled to one and only one vote on a question".

A runoff is when a second round of voting is held where the lowest vote-receiving candidates or all but two candidates are eliminated after the first round.

RONR states, "The nominee receiving the lowest number of votes is never removed from the ballot unless the bylaws so require, or unless he withdraws - which, in the absence of such a bylaw, he is not obligated to do. The nominee in lowest place may turn out to be a ' dark horse' on whom all factions may prefer to agree".

Motions relating to methods of voting and the polls are incidental motions used to obtain a vote on a question in some form other than by voice or by division of the assembly; or to close or reopen the polls. For instance, a motion can be made to vote by ballot.

These motions generally cannot be used to specify alternative forms of voting such as cumulative voting or preferential voting. Those methods can only be done through a provision in the bylaws. Likewise, proxy voting is generally prohibited, except in situations in which membership is transferable, as in stock corporations and even then, only by authorization in the bylaws.

Many legislative bodies use electronic voting systems for recorded votes.

In the various types of legislative assemblies ( comitia) of the Roman Republic, the voting was preceded by a contio (public meeting at which issues or candidates were presented). After the presiding magistrate called an end to this, citizens were dispersed into roped-off areas and were called forth in groups across raised gangways. Initially, each voter gave his vote orally to an official who made a note of it on an official tablet, but later in the Republic, the secret ballot was introduced, and the voter recorded his vote with a stylus on a wax-covered boxwood tablet, then dropped the completed ballot in the sitella or urna (voting urn), sometimes also called .

The U.S. House of Representatives taking a roll-call vote to elect its speaker for the 112th Congress, as broadcast by C-SPAN.

In 1869, Thomas Edison filed for a patent on the first electric vote recorder, and demonstrated the system to the United States Congress. The first proposal for automated voting in Congress was made in 1886. Over the next 84 years, fifty bills and resolutions to establish an automatic, electrical, mechanical, or electronic voting system in Congress were introduced. The Legislative Reorganization Act of 1970 authorized electronic voting for the first time. Electronic voting was first used in the House on January 23, 1973, to record a quorum call.

Under the system implemented in the 1970s, members of the House may vote at any one of a number of stations located throughout the chamber. Each member has a small plastic card, punched identically on either end. To cast a vote, the representative inserts the card into the station in any direction and presses one of three buttons: "Yea," "Nay," or "Present."

The representative's vote is then displayed in two summary panels above the press gallery seats and to the right and left of the speaker's dais. The panel shows the member's name and a light corresponding to how that member voted (green for yea, red for nay, and amber for present), keeps a running count of vote casts, and displays time remaining for a vote (most votes are held open for at least fifteen minutes). The system as used today is much the same as that used in the 1970s, although today, member's voting cards are magnetic stripe cards that contain identification information. Once a representative has voted, he or she may check the vote by reinserting the card and seeing which light is illuminated at the voting station. For the first ten minutes of a vote, a representative may also change his or her vote by reinserting the card to change the vote. If a representative wants to change his or her vote in the last five minutes of a fifteen-minute vote, the representative must use a teller card in the well of the House. A tally clerk then manually enters the vote into the electronic voting system.

In 1977, the electronic voting system was updated to be compatible with the House's newly installed closed-circuit television system showing the House chamber. The updates enabled in-progress voting counts to be displayed on the closed-circuit TV system. In-progress vote counts are now also shown on C-SPAN.

The three means of voting in the Senate are voice, division, and "the yeas and nays" (recorded votes or roll-call votes).

On a voice vote, the presiding officer first asks those in favor to say "aye," and then opposed to say "no." The presiding officer then announces who appeared to win the vote ("The ayes [noes] appear to have it."). One variation of a voice vote is for the presiding officer to state: " Without objection the amendment [bill, resolution, motion, etc.] is agreed to [or not agreed to]." If any senator objects to the presiding officer's determination, a vote will occur by another method (usually a recorded vote).

A division vote (taken by having each side stand) is rare in the Senate, but may be requested by any senator or ordered by the presiding officer if the outcome of the voice vote is doubtful. Like the voice vote, a division does not provide a record of how each senator voted. The chair announces the result of a division vote. As in a voice vote, any senator may ask for a recorded vote.

The third method is a recorded vote ("the yeas and nays"), currently taken by a roll call. The clerk calls the roll of senators alphabetical by name, and each Senator individually responds. Following the call, the clerk then identifies those who voted in the affirmative and those in the negative. The time limit for roll-call votes is nominally fifteen minutes as set by unanimous consent at the start of a two-year Congress, but votes are sometimes held open for longer so that senators may arrive.

Unlike the House, the Senate does not use electronic voting. In December 2013, Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid suggested that he would not be opposed to setting up an electronic system similar to that used in the House, but also stated that he didn't see any change occurring "in the near future." Use of an electronic system would make it possible for the Senate to vote more quickly during " vote-a-rama" sessions on amendments to budget resolutions.

S. Res. 480, a Senate resolution passed in 1984, created a standing order of the Senate requiring that each senator vote from his or her assigned desk. The resolution was sponsored by Democratic Senator Jennings Randolph of West Virginia. However, the rule is widely ignored, and senators typically vote while milling about the Senate chamber. All senators do vote from their desks, however, when asked to do so by the Senate majority leader. This typically is done on particularly solemn or important votes. The Senate Historical Office maintains a list of occasions when senators voted from their desks: these included the passage of the Affordable Care Act and Health Care and Education Reconciliation Act; the confirmation votes of Supreme Court justices; and votes on articles of impeachment.

The Wisconsin State Assembly chamber, with the electronic vote board on the wall. In 1917, the Wisconsin State Assembly became the first state legislative chamber to adopt an electronic voting system.

Many state legislatures use electronic voting systems for recorded votes. The first state legislative chambers to install electronic voting systems were the Wisconsin State Assembly (1917), Texas House of Representatives (1919), and Virginia House of Delegates (1923). Electronic voting systems continued to spread, and by 1980, nearly half of legislatures used such a system.

Today, almost two-thirds of the legislative bodies have installed electronic voting systems. About 40 percent of chambers have made updates to their system since 1990.

Electronic voting systems typically have voting controls at the front desk and running vote total displays. The National Conference of State Legislatures has reported on various differences in state electronic voting-systems:

In more than half of chambers, the clerk or secretary opens and closes the roll-call system. In seventeen chambers, the presiding officer opens and closes the system; in five chambers, the reading clerk opens and closes the system, and in nine chambers, some other legislative staffer opens and closes the system.

In 36 chambers, electronic roll-call votes are not subject to change. In one-third of chambers, however, changes are allowed if requested at the time of the vote. Seventeen chambers allow a roll-call vote to be changed upon a member's request at a later time.

In 42 chambers, a running vote total is displayed to the chamber; running vote totals appear on the presiding officer's monitor in 62 chambers and on the clerk's monitor in 59.

More sophisticated electronic voting systems are sometimes linked to other technology to assist the legislatures in their work:

In 48 chambers, the voting system is linked to journal production.

In 40 chambers, the voting system is linked with the calendar.

In 24 chambers, the system has a debate timer.

In ten chambers, the presiding officer has a monitor displaying which legislators wish to speak and the order of the requests.

A minority of state legislative chambers do not use an electronic voting system. Fourteen chambers use a traditional manual roll-call system in which the clerk calls the roll orally, records each member's vote on paper, and then tallies the ayes and nays. Twelve chambers use a hybrid system in which the clerk orally calls the roll, but each member's vote is then entered into a system.

The House of Lords votes on the Parliament Act 1911

In the Parliament of the United Kingdom (Westminster), at the close of debate, the presiding officer of the chamber-the Speaker of the House of Commons or the Lord Speaker of the House of Lords-" puts the motion" by asking members to call out their votes, typically saying "As many as are of that opinion, say 'aye'". The supporters of the measure shout "aye". The Speaker then says, "Of the contrary, 'no'" and the opponents of the measure shout "no". The Speaker then makes a determination of which side has won ("I think the Ayes [or Noes] have it.").

If the result of the vote is unclear (or challenged by any member of the house), the Speaker will call for a division of the house. Once a division has been called, the order "Clear the Lobby" is given in the Commons, and division bells ring out throughout the Parliamentary Estate to alert members that a vote is to take place. Members then physically separate themselves into the division lobbies, the Aye lobby to the Speaker's right and the No lobby to the Speaker's left. As members pass through the lobbies, clerks record their names and they are counted by tellers. Members have eight minutes to vote before the doors to the division lobbies are locked. In the Commons, the tally is complete, the tellers approach the presiding officer and announce the tally, and then the Speaker or Lord Speaker announces the result.

Some votes are "deferred" and instead conducted by means of an open ballot done at a convenient time for members. This is typically done for minor or technical legislation and is not permitted to be done for Bills.

The House of Lords follows are similar procedure, though the words "aye" and "no" are replaced by "content" and "not content" and the order given before a division is "Clear the Bar". Since the COVID-19 pandemic, the Lords now vote electronically but members must be physically present in Parliament in order to do so, unless special dispensation is obtained.

Before 2020, proposals to adopt electronic voting in Parliament were considered but rejected.For a temporary period between 22 April and 20 May 2020 due to COVID-19, Parliament sat virtually and the both houses conducted electronic voting known as "virtual divisions". Although this no longer applies in the House of Commons, the count in that house is now counted and verified by electronic means of members scanning their passes as they enter a division lobby.

Among the devolved assemblies, the Northern Ireland Assembly uses the Westminster mode of voting; members use "Aye" and "No" lobbies unless a unanimous voice vote is taken. By contrast, the Scottish Parliament (Holyrood), National Assembly for Wales and States of Jersey use electronic voting systems.

In the European Parliament, decisions are usually made by show of hands. If the show of hands leads to a doubtful result, the vote is taken by standing and sitting. If this, too, leads to a doubtful result, the vote is taken by roll call. (A roll-call vote is also taken if any political group or any 21 members request). The president of the European Parliament may also decide to hold a vote using the Parliament's electronic voting system. Electronic voting systems are installed in each of the European Parliament's two locations: Strasbourg and Brussels.

If at least 20% of the Parliament requests it before voting begins, the vote will be taken by secret ballot.

In the Russian State Duma, relatively few roll call votes have been published that identify individual deputies' votes. The votes of individuals are recorded only if the voting is open and the electronic method is used. While not all votes are officially roll call votes, every time a deputy electronically votes a computer registers the individual deputy's vote.

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Voting methods in deliberative assemblies - Wikipedia

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Deliberative assemblies - bodies that use parliamentary procedure to arrive at decisions - use several methods of voting on motions (formal proposal by members of a deliberative assembly that the assembly take certain action). The regular methods of voting in such bodies are a voice vote, a rising vote, and a show of hands.

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If the weather is wet, place cups and bowls or any other container you can make and place it in an open area so you can collect rainwater.
Alternatively, lay out a vinyl sheet on a piece of ground that has a natural hollow and form a depression in the centre using stones rocks. If possible, make sure your tarp and rocks are as clean as possible before using them.

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10 AWESOME wilderness hacks, that could save your life

Humans do not live long without water. Most of the time, you will be able to carry, buy or find water easily on a trek. But if anything goes wrong you will need to know how to get water safely when out in the wilderness. There are a variety of ways to do this, so choose the one that suits your circumstances best. In all cases, make sure you purify your water by boiling or with water purification tabs before drinking it.

COLLECT RAIN WATER

If the weather is wet, place cups and bowls or any other container you can make and place it in an open area so you can collect rainwater.
Alternatively, lay out a vinyl sheet on a piece of ground that has a natural hollow and form a depression in the centre using stones rocks. If possible, make sure your tarp and rocks are as clean as possible before using them.

Collect dew with a towel

This is perfect if you are in an area where there is a heavy early morning dew. Simply drag a clean towel over a dew-covered area then wring it out over a bowl. You may not collect a lot of water this way but you can often get enough to keep you going until you find a better water supply.

Collect water with plastic bags

This one works great for wooded areas when you have a bit of time and the trees are in leaf. Tie a large plastic bag over a leafy branch. Wait a while and water from leaves will evaporate and condense into the bag. You may have to filter out any bugs or plant material before drinking the water. A clean handkerchief or scarf can serve this purpose.

Collect water with a solar still

This one takes a bit more effort and time and is a bit more complicated but it can produce a good supply of water if done correctly.

Find a piece of ground that is on a slope.

Dig out an oval-shaped trench.

Around the edges of the first trench, dig a second trench. This means you have an inner 'bowl' or trench and an outer perimeter trench.

Place a tall stick in the center of the inner trench

Fill the inner trench with some plant material, like leaves and twigs.

Cover both trenches and the stick with a large plastic bag. The whole thing needs to be completely covered.

Use rocks to hold the edges in place.

Water should condense under the plastic tend and pool in the outer trench.

While the above hacks will help you to collect safe drinking water - there is no great adventure companion than a pair of Ridgemont Outfitters hiking boots. Shop the range here:

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How to collect safe drinking water | 10 AWESOME wilderness hacks

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10 AWESOME wilderness hacks, that could save your life. How to collect safe drinking water Humans do not live long without water. Most of the time, you will be able to carry, buy or find water easily on a trek. But if anything goes wrong you will need to know how to get water safely when out in the wilderness.

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Light fluffy material with a lot of airspace makes the best materials for insulation,piled thick enough leaves makes great insulation

1) Me,Myself and I will find a brush that fits the description above.

2) I will gather said material.

3) Then I shall insulate my base with it.

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Best traps to catch food in the wild

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5 Survival Traps and Snares that WORK! - Primitive Traps

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Make sure you have a stack of wood near you so you can put in wood to keep the fire going. Then, add something to put over the fire so the wind and rain don't blow it out. If it starts going out, you can try lightly blowing it to make it bigger. (WikiHow)

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Get a bowl, a plate, or helmet will work. In very dry places, condensation forms on surfaces overnight. Use a tarp or other fabric shaped as a bowl to collect water.

Tie some rags of fine grass to your ankles and walk in grass or foliage at sunrise. The dew will gather on the material, which can then be put into a container.

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How to Find Water on a Deserted Island | Worst-Case Scenario

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You have more options than you think, from collecting rainwater to cutting down banana trees to sucking fish eyes.

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How to persuade people (by Sophia Schmidt)

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How to persuade people (by Sophia Schmidt)

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To make trades with people, persuasion is an important detail. Wikihow states, "Persuasion comes up everyday, whether you're trying to get someone to close a business deal or convince a friend that you're on the right side of a debate." This can be applied to trading because you need to have trust in the person you're trading with.

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Download Article

Surefire ways to be more persuasive and influential

Download Article

Persuasion comes up every day, whether you're trying to get someone to close a business deal or convince a friend that you're on the right side of a debate. Some people say that persuasion is an art, but it doesn't have to be that complicated. You just have to show the other person that giving you what you want is in their best interest, and there are a lot of different ways you can do that. Not sure where to start? Don't worry-to help you out, we've compiled a list of ways to easily persuade anyone of anything.

Being kind or doing favors for the person you want to persuade will make them more likely to give you what you want.

Create a sense of solidarity with them by using "we" and "us" instead of "you."

Provide an incentive for them to agree with you: give them some benefits upfront, or talk about what they could lose if they don't side with you.

Add New Question

How do I persuade my friends to let me in on something I am unaware of? They refuse to tell me what it is.

If they don't want to let you on something, let it be that way. If they're excluding you unfairly, then you may want to weigh the value of those relationships. But they may be leaving you out for a good reason, in which case, make peace with the fact that you don't (and can't) always know everything.

How do I ask someone to be partners with me for school?

First try to help him/her as much as you can, then ask him/her.

When I want to do a group project but somebody asks "What do I get out of it?", what should I answer?

It's normal to ask that. After all, the person is investing time and effort. Many people are more than willing to do something for the sole benefit of others, but it's good to know what's what. At the very least, the people in the project get the satisfaction of knowing they contributed to a project that helped others.

See more answers

Be mature about it all - if after trying everything possible, they still say "no," let it go.

This article was co-authored by Guy Reichard and by wikiHow staff writer, Dev Murphy, MA. Guy Reichard is an Executive Life Coach and the Founder of HeartRich Coaching & Training, a professional life coaching and inner leadership training provider based in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. He works with people to create more meaning, purpose, well-being, and fulfillment in their lives. Guy has over 10 years of personal growth coaching and resilience training experience, helping clients enhance and transform their inner worlds, so they can be a more positive and powerful influence on those they love and lead. He is an Adler Certified Professional Coach (ACPC), and is accredited by the International Coach Federation. He earned a BA in Psychology from York University in 1997 and a Master of Business Administration (MBA) from York University in 2000. This article has been viewed 148,918 times.

The best way to persuade someone is to talk about what they'll lose if they don't follow your advice, since people naturally hate losing more than they like winning. If that doesn't work, try to make them laugh, which will make them happier and more willing to help you. Alternatively, when you first ask for something, try asking for something bigger than you want, so they'll feel like they're compromising with what you actually want. For example, if you're trying to get your busy partner to go out for a date, start by asking for a weekend away, and then suggest just a date instead. If there's a deadline for whatever you're trying to persuade someone about, emphasize the urgency of the situation, since this encourage people to act now and gives them less time to change their mind. For more tips, including how to find the right time to persuade someone, read on!

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 148,918 times.

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Surefire ways to be more persuasive and influentialPersuasion comes up every day, whether you're trying to get someone to close a business deal or convince a friend that you're on the right side of a debate. Some people say that persuasion...

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How to build a fire to cook stuff

First, make the 🔥FIRE🔥 in tiny little baby tiny pieces of bark. Then, get larger and larger pieces of bark every time you put in bark. Next, get large pieces of bark or logs and put them in. Get some extras so the fire doesn't run out. That's how you make the fire. 😎 (Outdoor Fire Safety)

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To start a fire first put small sticks and things that will catch easily in a mostly treeless area. After that add bigger and bigger branches until your fire is big enough.

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Knowing how to build a fire in the wilderness can save your life.

Bud Ahrens knows this first-hand. A few years ago, while leading a dog sledding trip in northern Minnesota with Outward Bound, an outdoor education and wilderness company, he watched as a coworker fell through ice into a lake. She spent several minutes in the freezing water before the team could pull her out.

Ahrens, the program director for Outward Bound's winter courses, knew just what to do, so he and his team got to work. They had a fire burning in 20 minutes, likely saving his companion from frostbite, or worse.

As you can see, understanding how to build a fire in the wild, be it for warmth or cooking, can make a huge difference when you're far from civilization.

Find your firestarter

A good fire begins with a quality firestarter. In some cases, that can mean something as simple as a store-bought starter or lighter fluid-doused twigs. But if you ever find yourself with no access to such tools, there are plenty of other options you can use to get some flames burning.

Aherns' favorite is birch bark, and he often packs a bag or two of the stuff before heading into the wilderness. It contains a natural oil that's water-resistant, so it will catch fire even if it's wet. Native Americans often used the bark for baskets and canoes because of its moisture-shedding properties. If you're harvesting bark in the backcountry, try to find some that has been blown off of trees. Each piece has many layers, so keep peeling until you find a dry one.

Spruce sap also makes a great natural firestarter. The flammable substance oozes out of injured trees and hardens into a resin, which can be snapped off and set ablaze. Still, Aherns warns that it may take several matches to get it going. Once lit, though, the sap will burn for several minutes, making it a great resource in wet conditions. While spruce is best, any hardened sap will do. Just find a blob that's about the size of a wad of chewing gum, pull it off the tree, place it on the end of a stick, and light it up.

Other substances that make admirable stand-ins for natural firestarters include cotton balls coated in petroleum jelly, hand sanitizer sprinkled on small kindling, such as dry leaves and grass, or the fibrous inside of the bark of cedar trees. You can also make your own firestarters by melting candle wax, adding dryer lint, and coating a pine cone or two with the mixture. And for a fun way to start a fire and impress your friends, you can use Doritos, Cheetos, or any type of oily chip in a pinch. Simply light a corner of a few chips and place them beneath your kindling.

Give your fire room to breathe

"You need oxygen, fuel, and a sustained ignition source to have a fire," Ahrens says. Those three factors form what he calls a "fire triangle"-neglect one side and the whole thing collapses.

Generally, fuel means wood, and an ignition source is a match or lighter. The level of oxygen will depend on how the wood is arranged-if you stack it well, it will facilitate air movement so the fire can breathe and grow.

Start with the kindling. Aherns suggests digging a trench a couple of inches deep as your fire pit, then laying three small pieces of wood over the trench in a triangle that's just big enough to support your tinder. Pile your tinder, place your firestarter of choice in the middle of it, and build your structure around it all.

Ahrens prefers the teepee method-where vertical pieces of wood are tented over a central point above your kindling-but the log cabin method-when wood is stacked in a square in alternating directions, as if assembling a Jenga tower-works, too.

Behold: the log cabin method of building a fire. skeeze via Pixabay

Start with smaller branches and sticks that will catch easily, then add larger pieces as the fire grows. Be careful not to overcrowd the wood, or oxygen won't be able to flow freely and your fire will go out. Stick with branches or logs no bigger than your wrist. Ahrens says larger logs don't mean more heat energy, just a longer burn. And don't worry if you can't build a massive blaze-small fires are just as effective for cooking and heating as larger ones.

Light it up

Ideally, when in the backcountry or at a campsite, you'll have access to a lighter or matches. If you're relying on the latter, make sure to keep them in a watertight container in case of inclement weather or unexpected submersion. Ahrens also always carries a lighter on a lanyard around his neck, just in case. But those aren't the only ways to spark a flame.

A flint and steel fire striker is a handy tool for the job. If you're in a pinch, a knife, or even a hard rock with a sharp edge can stand in for the steel. To create a spark, strike the flint and steel together in a fast, slicing motion. With dry kindling, a spark is often all you'll need to light a fire.

Set a fire in the rain

Building a fire when everything's perfectly dry is one thing, but in cold and wet conditions it becomes exponentially more difficult. It can, however, still be done.

"There's dry stuff somewhere," Aherns says. You just have to find it.

Start by looking for dry wood and kindling at the bases of trees where branches and foliage may have protected it from rain. In an emergency, you can harvest small branches from the lowest parts of nearby trees. It's not good Leave No Trace ethics, but sometimes you have to do what's necessary to survive. Look for dead trees or branches and wood that's fallen to the ground that might be soggy on the outside, but dry on the inside. When you do, carve off the wet outer layers until you hit dry wood.

Just because wood is wet on the outside doesn't mean it's wet on the inside. LUM3N from Pixabay

If it's raining when you're trying to start a fire, protect it from above by building a tripod-like structure or two and stretching or draping a tarp or tent fly over it. Make sure to mount it high enough that the fabric won't catch fire or melt. To maintain a secure fuel supply, put damp logs nearby or over a fire grate to help them dry out.

Extra tips and tricks on how to build a fire

When getting a fire going, patience and preparation are key, Aherns says. To make it less of an ordeal, he suggests gathering all the materials you'll need (matches, kindling, wood, etc.) before you begin so you don't waste energy searching for more materials once you spark a flame. You can save time by gathering downed wood and starter materials on the way to the campsite if you know you'll soon be calling it a day. Use your environment for ideas-Ahrens has used everything from pine needles to cattails as firestarter because that's what was available nearby. Trial and error is a great way to discover what works and what doesn't.

Don't expect there to be an abundance of perfect materials where you camp, so the best trick is to always be prepared with fire-starting kits. Emergency provisions, such as food that doesn't need to be cooked, are also a good idea in case you can't find any wood or don't have the energy to build a campfire. Waterproof and windproof matches are also quite useful in less-than-ideal conditions.

And if all else fails, Aherns says a gas stove you may have only intended to cook with will start a warming blaze. It's somewhat difficult and not ideal (especially given the whole gas-canister-next-to-an-open-flame thing), but if you learn how to build a fire in the wilderness in any condition, it's a last resort you'll rarely have to rely on.

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Knowing how to build a fire in the wilderness can save your life. Bud Ahrens knows this first-hand. Here are all the tips you need.

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This is important because you have to know where to look for animal tracks.

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Who Goes There? Finding and Studying Animal Tracks - Long Acres Ranch

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An animal track is the imprint left behind by an animal in the soil, mud, snow or any other surface that it walks across. Animal tracks can give us a great deal of information about the ecosystem in which we find them. They are used by hunters in order to track prey or by ranchers [...]

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When water hits a cool surface it turns into a clean form of condensarion

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Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond by Brad Lancaster

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Condensate Harvesting is the harvest of water vapor in the air that freely condenses on surfaces, which are colder than the air temperature at your site.

Top of the Austin, Texas City Hall air-conditioner-condensate waterfall

Bottom of the Austin, Texas City Hall waterfall. The water is harvested condensate from the building's air conditioners.

When water vapor in the air (humidity) comes into contact with a colder surface, the water changes from a gas to a liquid and collects on that colder surface. This water vapor in the air that becomes liquid is referred to as condensate. Common examples are the drops of condensate that form on the outside of a cold glass of iced tea on a hot, humid day; condensate collecting on the cold coil of an air conditioner or refrigerator unit; or the condensate that forms on a metal roof cooled by the night air in early humid morning hours.

Passive condensation does not require the consumption of energy generated at a power plant to create the cool surface on which the moisture condenses. Examples include condensate forming on a night-cooled metal roof in the early hours of a humid morning, or the ancient practice of creating a small pile of cool rocks (with ample air space between the rocks - so they can cool off at night) on which condensate will form in the early humid morning hours to passively irrigate an adjoining plant. An air well is a condensate-harvesting structure that works similar to the pile of rocks.

Active condensation does require the consumption of energy generated at a power plant to create the cool surface on which the moisture condenses. Examples include moisture condensing on outside of a glass of an iced drink (energy had to be generated and consumed to make the ice), and condensation on an air conditioning unit (lots of energy has to be generated and consumed to run the air conditioner).

Ample condensate typically collects on the cold coil of air conditioner and refrigerator units, which is often wastefully discarded via a drain or pipe (see photo below). The hotter and more humid the climate, and/or the more moisture (such as from respiring and perspiring people) in an air-conditioned building; the more condensate air conditioners, refrigerator units, ice machines, and freezers will discharge.

Lost condensate and potential.
Air-conditioning condensate wastefully drained (via white PVC plastic pipe) to sidewalk and street.
Living air conditioners in the form of street trees could be planted here to reduce the need of mechanical air conditioning, while attaining free irrigation from both the HVAC condensate and runoff from the adjoining street. Hatch, New Mexico.
Photo: Brad Lancaster

How much condensate does an air conditioner discharge:
In a dry climate or season:

a home air conditioner can generate 0.25 gallons (1 liter) of condensate/day

a large commercial air conditioner can generate 500 gallons (1,900 liters)/day

In a humid climate or season:

a home air conditioner can generate 18 gallons (68 liters) of condensate/day

a large commercial air conditioner can generate 1,000 gallons (3,750 liters) or more/day

Harvested condensate growing an oasis.
Verdant, living-air conditioner-like tree, irrigated by the air conditioning condensate drained from the air conditioners it shades and cools. Truth or Consequences, New Mexico. Photo: Brad Lancaster

White drainpipe drains condensate to the root zone of native desert willow tree.
Truth or Consequences, New Mexico. Photo: Brad Lancaster

Quality of condensate

This condensate is basically distilled water, containing low amounts of minerals such as salt, but may contain bacteria. Condensate is great for watering plants, but don't drink it unless you adequately treat the water. Comparatively, municipal or well water is often relatively high in salt - which can be toxic to plants and soil life - thus condensate can help dilute those salts, making for a healthier growing environment (though salt-free rainwater does an even better job of this).

How to harvest and use condensate

To irrigate with condensate simply direct the condensate (ideally with free gravity-no pumps) to vegetation. It typically should not puddle on the surface, but rather quickly infiltrate into the root zone of the plants to reduce the chance of mosquitoes, bacteria growth in the water, or water loss to evaporation. More organic matter, diverse soil life, and vegetation in the soil increase the rate of infiltration into the soil.

I like to plant a relative oasis of plants (local natives are the easiest to succeed with) at the "spring" where condensate discharge pipes outlet into the landscape. And I like to first route the pipes and outlet where such an oasis can provide the maximum benefits (such as passive cooling, a verdant entryway, etc.).

See here for the ENERGY costs of condensate and other waters,
and information on how the refrigerant in air conditioners, refrigeration units, freezers, and ice machines is a major contributor to climate change

For more

See the new, full-color, revised editions of Brad's award-winning books
- available a deep discount, direct from Brad:

Volume 1

See the book Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond, Volume 1 3rd Edition to estimate how much condensate your air conditioner may discharge, the water needs (expenses) of potential plants for your condensate "spring" to grow a sustainable oasis in balance with your free on-site waters' budget (income), and how to situate vegetation for free summer cooling and winter heating of associated buildings and outdoor spaces.

Buy the Book Now

Volume 2

Other free on-site waters can include rainwater, stormwater, snow, fog, greywater, and dark greywater. The new, full-color editions of Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond Volumes 1 and 2 show you how to harvest all of these to great effect, along with case studies of success.

Buy the Book Now

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Condensate & Dew Harvesting - Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond by Brad Lancaster

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Condensate Harvesting is the harvest of water vapor in the air that freely condenses on surfaces, which are colder than the air temperature at your site. Top of the Austin, Texas City Hall air-conditioner-condensate waterfall Bottom of the Austin, Texas City Hall waterfall. The water is harvested condensate from the...

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Sometimes you need to resolve conflict so here are five ways you can resolve it because you might have conflict with somebody that got conflict with you. ex. say that someone took your things but they didn't so now you have conflict with them, or say something happened and you thought that it was one of the groups that you don't like or its a group that you do like and they starting to think that you did something to to their base.

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Shelter is Important for survival

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Shelter is a basic human need crucial for survival in case of natural hazards and human-induced disasters, including conflict.

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People are always dealing with conflict so its really good to know if they are good. Sometimes its hard to understand what people are saying and you could easily have conflict with them.

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Different interests. People may focus on personal or departmental goals over organizational ones. Or be held up and frustrated by others who they rely on to do their jobs effectively.

Five Conflict Resolution Strategies

When you find yourself in a conflict situation, these five strategies will help you to resolve disagreements quickly and effectively:

1. Raise the Issue Early

Keeping quiet only lets resentment fester. Equally, speaking with other people first can fuel rumor and misunderstanding.

So, whether you're battling over the thermostat or feel that you're being micromanaged, be direct and talk with the other party. However, if you're afraid of making that approach, or worry that it may make the problem worse, speak with your manager first, or your HR department if the other party is your manager.

Either way, be assertive (not aggressive) and speak openly. This will encourage others to do the same - and you can get to the root cause of a problem before it escalates.

2. Manage Your Emotions

Choose your timing when you talk to someone about the conflict. If you're angry, you may say something you'll regret and inflame the situation. Be careful to avoid playing the blame game.

So stay calm, collect yourself, and ask, "What is it I want to achieve here?", "What are the issues I'm having?" and "What is it that I would like to see?"

3. Show Empathy

When you talk to someone about a conflict, it's natural to want to state your own case, rather than hear out the other side. But when two people do this, the conversation goes in circles.

Instead, invite the other party to describe their position, ask how they think they might resolve the issue, and listen with empathy.

Putting yourself in the other person's shoes is an essential part of negotiation. This helps you to build mutual respect and understanding - and to achieve an outcome that satisfies both parties.

4. Practice Active Listening

To identify the source of the conflict you have to really listen. To listen actively:

Paraphrase the other party's points to show you're listening and really understand them.

Look out for non-verbal signals that contradict what they are saying, such as a hesitant tone behind positive words. Bring these out into the open sensitively to address them together.

Use appropriate body language, such as nodding your head, to show interest and to make it clear that you're following them.

5. Acknowledge Criticism

Some of the things the other person tells you may be difficult to hear. But remember that criticism or constructive feedback is about job behaviors and not you as a person.

So, keep an open mind and use criticism to help you to identify areas to improve, perform better next time, and grow.

Glasers' Three-Step Strategy for Conflict Resolution

Conflict management consultants Peter and Susan Glaser recommend a three-step strategy for resolving conflict, and it draws on many of the skills we've looked at above. You can hear the Glasers talking about their model in our exclusive interview with them. [1]

The steps for these conflict resolution skills are:

Prove that you understand their side.

Acknowledge that you are part of the problem.

Try again if the conversation didn't go well.

Let's try a training exercise and apply each step to a fictional conflict resolution scenario.

Conflict Resolution Training Example

Imagine that the heads of two departments are in conflict. Product Manager Sayid changed the price of a product without letting Marketing Manager Gayanne know. As a result, the marketing team sent out an email to customers with incorrect prices. They had to send out a follow-up email apologizing for the error, and make good on the price some customers paid for the product.

1. Prove That You Understand Their Side

Instead of blaming Sayid, Gayanne asks him how he came to make the decision. She uses her questioning and listening skills to get the information she needs and to show that she's truly hearing Sayid's response.

She discovers that Sayid was pressured by a major client to drop the price or risk losing a contract. She empathizes, saying, "Yes, I've had difficulties with that client before, too."

As Susan Glaser says, "Only when you believe that I understand you, will you be willing to try to understand my perspective." [2]

2. Acknowledge That You Are Part of the Problem

If you're in conflict with someone, it's unlikely you're free of all blame. So admit your part in it. This leads to mutual trust, a better understanding of one another, and makes it easier to find a solution.

In our scenario, Gayanne could say to Sayid, "I should have shared our marketing strategy and email send dates with you. I'll do that right away."

3. Try Again if the Conversation Doesn't Go Well

Despite the progress they've made, relations between the two managers remain frosty, so Sayid calls Gayanne the following week. He says, "I was thinking about our conversation, and I'd like to try again because I'm not happy with how it went. I've had time to take your points on board, and I'd like to talk about how we can work together better going forward."

Remember that you get more than one shot at resolving a conflict. Susan Glaser says, "There's a myth that if we have a bad conversation with someone it's over. In fact, 'do overs' are powerful." [3]

Frequently Asked Questions
Why is conflict resolution important in the workplace?
Unresolved conflicts can hinder productivity and damage team dynamics. Effective conflict resolution helps maintain a positive work environment, promotes collaboration, and ensures issues are addressed before they escalate.
What are some common sources of workplace conflicts?
Workplace conflicts can arise from differences in communication styles, conflicting goals, personality clashes, misunderstandings, resource allocation, or competing priorities. Recognizing these sources is crucial for timely intervention.
How can a team manager effectively address conflicts among team members?
A team manager should act as a mediator and facilitator. Begin by listening to both sides, understanding perspectives, and acknowledging emotions. Encourage open dialogue, find common ground, and work together to find a solution that is fair and beneficial for all parties.
What strategies can managers employ to prevent conflicts from escalating?
Managers can implement proactive measures such as fostering a transparent communication culture, setting clear expectations, defining roles and responsibilities, and promoting team-building activities. By addressing potential sources of conflict early on, managers can prevent minor issues from turning into major disputes.
How does effective conflict resolution contribute to team productivity?
Resolving conflicts promptly maintains a harmonious working environment where team members feel valued and understood. This leads to improved morale, increased focus on tasks, and a more efficient workflow, ultimately enhancing overall team productivity.
When is it appropriate to involve higher management in conflict resolution?
Involving higher management should be considered when conflicts cannot be resolved at the team level or when the conflicts involve larger organizational issues. Higher management can provide a neutral perspective and additional resources to facilitate resolution.

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Conflict Resolution - 8 Ways to Resolve Conflict in the Workplace

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Discover skills and strategies for resolving conflict with your colleagues and reach positive outcomes even when you don't see eye to eye.

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We can store the water underground

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Despite having a higher capital cost than wind breakers or partial dyke covers, complete reservoir covers offer the best cost /efficiency ratio out of all the existing methods to effectively reduce evaporation. While quite as not effective as enclosed underground storage (99+% reduction in evaporation losses), some modular floating covers are getting very close (98%) while being substantially more affordable to install and maintain. The most effective modular cover currently on the market, suitable to most reservoir and water containment structure in windy areas with fluctuating water levels, is the proprietary Rhombo cover from Advanced Water Treatment Technologies.

Compared to other modular floating covers, it is ideally suited for larger reservoirs because it will resist high winds and does not stack even with strong water currents. This cutting edge cover is similar in simplicity as other sphere covers except that it does not have the gap in between the sphere.

The Rhombo cover ofers the following properties:

Up to 99,9% coverage of the surface

Up to 98% reduction of evaporation from water surface

Up to 96% emission reduction

Up to 90% odor reduction

Over 75% reduction in heat loss

Over 90% reduction in algae growth

Annually, an estimated 495,000 cubic kilometer of water evaporates into the atmosphere. Approximately 990 cubic kilometer or 261,530 billion gallons are lost through evaporation of fresh water reservoir. Even preventing a fraction of this evaporative loss would permit to replenish aquifers, lakes and rivers. Covering reservoir in drought prone areas and large water bodies in arid and semi arid climate is essential to preserve water supplies in those areas. With technologically advanced modular covers able to prevent up to 98% of evaporation losses, there are cost efficient tools to help us maintain our fresh water suppliers.

Learn more about floating covers.

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Evaporation Prevention: How to stop evaporation on ponds and lakes

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Evaporation prevention and stopping evaporation is important for water conservation. There are methods to limit evaporation in open ponds, lakes & tanks.

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One way you can keep water from evaporating is covering the water up with shade.

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One of the major costs in pool ownership is topping off the water level. Here are a few simple ways to protect your pool from evaporation.

Anyone who's owned or maintained a pool knows how rapidly water levels can drop. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, a typical uncovered pool can lose between 12,000 and 31,000 gallons of water annually, simply due to evaporation.

Here's what can be done to preserve the water you've already paid for!

Cover It Up

The most effective way to prevent evaporation is to put a lid on top of the pool, effectively keeping pool water locked in. The same EPA report tells us a pool cover can prevent up to 95 percent of evaporation. Pool covers also help retain heat, so heated pools that are covered use less energy to maintain their temperature. And because covers prevent dirt and foreign objects from entering the pool, you'll find yourself adding fewer chemicals over time.

The biggest downside of a pool cover? It's easy to forget to use it. Or you just don't feel like putting the cover on that night. And to be clear, some covers are bulky and difficult to deploy by yourself. Automated covers are an option, but many pool owners balance cost and practicality by rotating two sets of covers: a heavy one that stays on between pool seasons, and a lightweight cover for the summer months.

Liquid Protection

Liquid Evaporation Suppressants (LESs) are less effective than a full pool cover, but are affordable and extremely easy to use. They create an invisible film on top of the water that effectively seals the pool and reduces evaporation.

Pool owners love this product because they simply put it in and forget it, except to top it off from time to time. However, LESs aren't as effective as a physical cover and don't stop dirt and debris from falling into your backyard pool.

Turn Down the Heat

If you own a heated pool, consider lowering the heat at night. Evaporation is affected far less by the temperature outdoors, and more by the difference in temperature between the pool and the air around it. Most pools are approximately the same temperature as the air during the day, but evaporation rates soar at night when the hot water and cold air vary greatly. (That's right, most pool evaporation occurs at night!)

If you've ever used a pool at night, you've likely seen steam rising from the water. That steam is evaporation, and it's money slipping out of your pocket.

Structures to Shade and Stop the Wind

On a hot and sweaty day, nothing brings relief like a cool breeze. That sensation is your sweat evaporating, accelerated by the moving air. Outdoor breezes work in exactly the same fashion on your below- or above-ground pool, enhancing evaporation and dropping your water levels even lower.

Structures and large plants such as pergolas, shade trees, fences and bushes block the sun and break up the breeze. That keeps your pool water where it belongs - in the pool!

Shade has a secondary benefit as well, helping to keep the chlorine levels higher than if exposed to direct sunlight. Generally, evaporation contributes little to the loss of pool chemicals or stabilizers such as chlorine or salt. But direct sunlight can break apart the chlorine in your pool, transforming it into a gas that escapes. Many pools use a stabilized form of chlorine to reduce evaporation due to UV rays, but shade structures or trees can make a big difference as well.

If you'd like to read more about pool water evaporation and retention, the EPA's WaterSense initiative released a 22-page report in 2018 that dives into this issue.

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Ways to Protect Your Pool From Evaporation

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One of the major costs in pool ownership is topping off the water level. Here are a few simple ways to protect your pool from evaporation.

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This website states a round lodge can protect people from a lot of basic elements meaning it is a sturdy structure.

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How to Build an Emergency Shelter (PLUS… How a Single Tarp Could Save Your Life!) — Positive Adventures

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While emergency survival situations are rare, it’s important that we prepare for them. One of your first priorities should be building a shelter.

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In the wild, you should be looking out for animals tracks, so that you can find out if an animal is nearby without having to see them first.

A Badger has tracks about 6 cm wide, and have long claw marks with 5 toes.

Deer and sheep have cloven hooves, so each hoof print will be split in two. Deer prints are shaped more like two sides of a heart, while sheep prints are more rounded at the top.

Otter paw prints are webbed, and can be up to 9 cm long and 6 cm wide. Otters also have five toes and sharp claws, and since they live in muddy or wet areas, you can usually see it pretty well.

(Find more on website, I ran out of timeT~T)

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Wildlife can sometimes be hard to spot, but there are signs to look out for that show animals have been hanging around!

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Shake the stem off or cut it.

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To make trades with people, persuasion is an important detail. Wikihow states, "Persuasion comes up everyday, whether you're trying to get someone to close a business deal or convince a friend that you're on the right side of a debate." This can be applied to trading because you need to have trust in the person you're trading with.

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Download Article

Surefire ways to be more persuasive and influential

Download Article

Persuasion comes up every day, whether you're trying to get someone to close a business deal or convince a friend that you're on the right side of a debate. Some people say that persuasion is an art, but it doesn't have to be that complicated. You just have to show the other person that giving you what you want is in their best interest, and there are a lot of different ways you can do that. Not sure where to start? Don't worry-to help you out, we've compiled a list of ways to easily persuade anyone of anything.

Being kind or doing favors for the person you want to persuade will make them more likely to give you what you want.

Create a sense of solidarity with them by using "we" and "us" instead of "you."

Provide an incentive for them to agree with you: give them some benefits upfront, or talk about what they could lose if they don't side with you.

Add New Question

How do I persuade my friends to let me in on something I am unaware of? They refuse to tell me what it is.

If they don't want to let you on something, let it be that way. If they're excluding you unfairly, then you may want to weigh the value of those relationships. But they may be leaving you out for a good reason, in which case, make peace with the fact that you don't (and can't) always know everything.

How do I ask someone to be partners with me for school?

First try to help him/her as much as you can, then ask him/her.

When I want to do a group project but somebody asks "What do I get out of it?", what should I answer?

It's normal to ask that. After all, the person is investing time and effort. Many people are more than willing to do something for the sole benefit of others, but it's good to know what's what. At the very least, the people in the project get the satisfaction of knowing they contributed to a project that helped others.

See more answers

Be mature about it all - if after trying everything possible, they still say "no," let it go.

This article was co-authored by Guy Reichard and by wikiHow staff writer, Dev Murphy, MA. Guy Reichard is an Executive Life Coach and the Founder of HeartRich Coaching & Training, a professional life coaching and inner leadership training provider based in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. He works with people to create more meaning, purpose, well-being, and fulfillment in their lives. Guy has over 10 years of personal growth coaching and resilience training experience, helping clients enhance and transform their inner worlds, so they can be a more positive and powerful influence on those they love and lead. He is an Adler Certified Professional Coach (ACPC), and is accredited by the International Coach Federation. He earned a BA in Psychology from York University in 1997 and a Master of Business Administration (MBA) from York University in 2000. This article has been viewed 148,918 times.

The best way to persuade someone is to talk about what they'll lose if they don't follow your advice, since people naturally hate losing more than they like winning. If that doesn't work, try to make them laugh, which will make them happier and more willing to help you. Alternatively, when you first ask for something, try asking for something bigger than you want, so they'll feel like they're compromising with what you actually want. For example, if you're trying to get your busy partner to go out for a date, start by asking for a weekend away, and then suggest just a date instead. If there's a deadline for whatever you're trying to persuade someone about, emphasize the urgency of the situation, since this encourage people to act now and gives them less time to change their mind. For more tips, including how to find the right time to persuade someone, read on!

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 148,918 times.

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Surefire ways to be more persuasive and influentialPersuasion comes up every day, whether you're trying to get someone to close a business deal or convince a friend that you're on the right side of a debate. Some people say that persuasion...

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Based on our situation these supplies can help us start a fire

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Top 10 Ways to Start a Fire without Matches or a Lighter

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You may not always have matches or a lighter on hand when you need to build a fire. Learn how to create a fire without these tools so you can survive even in the toughest conditions.

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1st you need to collect the materials to make a bundle of things that can start a fire.

2nd then hit stones together

3rd wave in the wind

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When camping in the wild, you need fire to cook and roast food, fire is needed to keep camping warm, and fire is needed to send a distress signal. Therefore, making fire is a necessary skill for survival in the wild, and the ability to survive in the wild, its depends on the ability to make fire. Of course, there are many modern ways to get fire or stove easily. But when without that, how to get fire/ build campfire and stove in the wild?

How to get fire?

Matches and lighters are of course the fastest and most effective way to make fire, but how to make fire when there are no matches and lighters?

Next, we will provide some suggestions and methods to help you how to get fire in the wild.

First of all, we need to prepare a tinder nest before making a fire and use flammable and dry materials to make a tinder nest. For example, dry grass, leaves, twigs, bark, dry grass, crushed dry leaves, dandelion feathers, you can also use a knife to scrape some wood chips on dry branches as a firelighter. If it is rainy, look for dry firelighters under trees or rocks.

The dried and fallen fruits of coniferous pine are usually resinous and are excellent firelighters. There is often "pine oil" or resin on the knots of dead pine trees. Sometimes, the resin can be dug from the roots of dead old trees. Even in rainy weather, birch bark is still a good firelighter because it contains flammable grease.

In areas where there are no trees, there are also natural fuels, such as roped hay, dead shrubs, dried slime, oil shale, oily sand, dried animal manure, and animal oil. At the same time, you can also get gasoline from a car that you cant use or a plane that is forced to land.

If you can't find a dry natural firelighter, you can use the cotton wool in the cotton coat, the bandage in the medicine box, the fluff accumulated in the pocket, and so on.

The firefighter must meet the requirements of dryness, fineness, and flammability. Then find some dry thin branches and thick branches to burn. After collecting these, we are about to start a fire. When lighting a fire, first ignite the firelighter, and then carefully put the dry twigs on it, and blow it into the fire while laying it, to provide enough oxygen for the combustion to help the fire as soon as possible. Burn prosperously, and then put thick branches on top.

1. Hit stones

Rocking stone to make fire is the earliest mankind's method of making fire. The use of this method may be inspired by the phenomenon of sparks when making stone tools. We can find hard rock and use it as a "flint" and hit the "flint" with the back of a knife or a small piece of steel to make sparks fall on the primer. When the firelighter starts to smoke, slowly blow or fan it to ignite an open flame.

If the "Flint" can't make a fire, you can find another stone and try again. Of course, not any stone can ignite the firelighter. The spark from the stone must have a certain amount of heat and duration to ignite the firelighter. According to archaeological data, it is found that the sparks produced by striking flint with pyrite can make fire. Many campers now carry magnesium rods with them because they are easily ignited and easy to carry.

2. Using battery

If you carry batteries, such as flashlights, mobile phone batteries. Take out the battery, and then find some thin metal wire or tin foil-wrapped chewing gum. Connect both ends of the thin metal wire to the positive and negative poles of the battery, so that the battery will short-circuit and allow the wire to generate enough heat. The wire will act like red-burning iron and then be used to ignite the firelighter. Or tear the thin tin foil in the middle, and then connect the two ends to the positive and negative poles of the battery. The battery will short-circuit, which will cause the thinnest part of the tin foil to generate heat, burn it, and then use it to ignite the firelighter.

3. Drilling wood/ bow drilling

Drilling wood to make fire is the most primitive and traditional method, so the relative difficulty will be greater, and it will take much practice to succeed. Tie shoelaces, rope, or leather belts with strong dry branches or bamboo to make a bow. Wrap a dry wooden stick around the bow and use it to rotate quickly on a small piece of hardwood, or you can rotate it by hand. In this way, continuous and rapid rotation and friction will generate a lot of heat, and black powder will be drilled. Finally, the powder will smoke and generate sparks. Then carefully pour the black powder into the firelighter, and gently blow it into the firelighter. , To provide oxygen to the fire so that it ignites the firelighter. Drilling wood for the fire is a very long process, so be patient.

4. Magnifying glass/convex lens to make fire

Any convex mirror with a diameter of two inches or more (for example, a magnifying glass or telescope, and a convex mirror in a camera) can be used to make a fire. Under bright sunlight, use a magnifying glass (convex lens) to gather the sunlight to a point and irradiate it on the prepared firelighter, so that the temperature of the point will rise sharply, and put the flammable material at this point for a while on fire.

In addition, set a fire on the focus of the flashlight's reflective bowl, and toward the sun also can get fire. In ice and snow weather, it is also possible to process the ice cube into a shape thick in the middle and thin, to instead of the convex lens. This way of making a fire must be under the premise of the sun, so it is best to raise the fire during the day. The fastest way to use a magnifying glass to get fire is to irradiate the propellant or fuse of gasoline, alcohol, and bullets, which can ignite the firelighter within 1 to 2 seconds.

In addition, the magnifying glass shines through the focus of the sun, and can also ignite the matches that have been dried after being damp or soaked in water. The magnifying glass is an important tool for ignition.

5. Using Rattan

This method is the same as the principle of drilling wood for the fire. Find a dry tree trunk, split it at one end, and use something to prop up the crack, plug the firelighter, and use a two-foot-long rattan to pierce the firelighter. Behind, both feet stepped tightly on the tree trunk and quickly twitched the cane from side to side, causing it to rub and heat and ignite the firelighter.

6. Using Flint

Flint is a favorite thing for many survivors in the wilderness. It can be ignited under any circumstances. It is Humidity-proof and windproof. Scrape off some magnesium powder with a knife and put it on the firelighter. It doesn't need much. Then use a knife to aim at the magnesium powder to quickly scrape the magnesium rod, the sparks generated can ignite the firelighter.

7. Other methods

In some field first aid kits, there will be a sealed igniter with a few wicks and flints attached to it, tightly wrapped with waterproof tape. If you do it carefully and don't expose it to the fire for a long time, you can use it to burn 400 to 600 fires.

Special firearms. When the match you bring with you is soaked, you can use this newly invented medal match to light it. If used carefully, this modern match can light 3000 times, and every mountaineer should bring one in his backpack.

Flash signal light method. If your plane, car, or yacht is equipped with flashing lights-the police often use red flashing lights in emergencies-you can break the top of the lampshade on a rock and ignite it with a flashing light. But do as required and be careful not to cause forest fires.

Build a campfire and stove

There are many convenient stoves/small stoves that can be used directly for cooking, but how to build one when there is nothing or is damaged?

→ Naturehike Mini Portable Alcohol Outdoor Camping Stove
1. First, confirm whether there can be a campfire
In the wild, it is not possible to make a campfire everywhere, because a little carelessness can cause wildfires. Outdoor kitchen-a circle with a diameter of 3 meters.

The first problem with camping stoves is location. Water is indispensable for cooking, it can be near water. But if it is too close, it will pollute the river, so the kitchen should be set up at a certain distance from the river. No flammable materials should be placed in a circle at least 1.5 meters away from the center of the fire source.

The fire of burning wood will not only make a crackling sound but also sparks will fly in. On a dry day, it is easy to ignite the weeds around, so be careful.
2. Don't be impatient when making a campfire
At the beginning of the campfire, you must feel very difficult. The wind is too strong or the wood is wet, so you can't light it. Making a bonfire requires tricks. First, collect enough wood, light the newspaper or bark for the fire, and then lead the fine wood branches. Don't worry at this time. When the fire is really drawn, gradually add thick branches. In places where it is difficult to find firewood, you can use the newspaper group.

When lighting a campfire, you should choose a place leeward, and not close to 1 to 2 meters from the tent to avoid fire. If it is necessary to start a fire in a wet or snowy area, use stones or wood to pad the ground first.

In order to facilitate the burning, two sleepers can be placed at right angles to the wind direction, and the wood used as fuel and the sleepers are arranged side by side at right angles. Then, on and in the middle of the wood, put some thin stubble cut with a knife and ax. wood.

Finally, put on the igniting material to ignite.

The best material to light a campfire is birch bark. The oil content of birch bark reaches 20% to 30%, and it can still burn in the rain. It used to be an important military material in ancient times and was a convenient torch material for night operations. Rotten wood, palm leaves, dead grass, pine needles, lichen, dried animal manure, etc. are also good materials for ignition.

In order to concentrate the heat of the campfire and not be affected by the wind, two wooden piles can be driven obliquely on the leeward side of the campfire, and a number of damp logs can be discharged against the wooden piles to form a wind-proof reflecting wall.

There are usually the following types of campfires:

1. Jungle campfire. Lay a thicker log horizontally, and place a few thinner dry logs diagonally on it, and move it while burning it. Suitable for camping without shelter in winter.

2. Star-shaped campfire. Put one end of 5-10 logs together like a star, and light it from the center, then

After burning, push the log inward. This kind of campfire has a lot of heat, and even a few people can sleep around it in the snow.

3. Long campfire. Use two logs about the length of a human body to stack up with the wind, and drive wet wood wedges into the sides to prevent the logs from slipping off. Add support between the two kinds of wood to leave a gap to facilitate burning. Burning time of this bonfire

Longer, almost no need to adjust, suitable for heating during winter camping.

A small campfire wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwshould be burned for cooking and roasting food. The campfire for heating at night can burn a little larger, and more fuel needs to be stored. Therefore, this point should be considered when choosing a campsite. The fuel allocation ratio for one night is one-third of the first half of the night and two-thirds of the second half of the night.

When evacuating, campfires should be completely extinguished, especially in forest areas and grasslands, so as not to cause fires.

Summarize

So there are several ways to get fire and bulid campfire in the wild! Be careful using fire in the wild! Hope it can help you to stay much safe and get more experience in the wild!

Related Articles:
How to get water in the wild? How to choose a camping mattress/sleeping pad Winter camping List

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When camping in the wild, you need fire to cook and roast food, fire is needed to keep camping warm, and fire is needed to send a distress signal. Therefore, making fire is a necessary skill for survival in the wild, and the ability to survive in the wild, its depends on the ability to make fire.

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Fish are a very common source of food on deserted islands. Use some plastic bottles washed ashore to create fish traps.

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You’re on a deserted island. What to eat?

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I’m on a deserted island. How can I tell which plants are poisonous? Scenario: deserted island, colorful fruits and vegetation. How do I know what…

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To avoid evaporation you could minimize the surface area

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1. By Keeping Free Water Surface Area Minimum:

Reservoirs and lakes are the water bodies with large surface area.

It is possible to reduce the surface area by adopting following measures:

(a) The reservoir site may be selected in such a way that area to storage ratio is minimum.
(b) To avoid water loss water could be stored below ground.
(c) When there are number of reservoirs on one river the water may be stored in one large reservoir when possible rather than in several small reservoirs.

2. Add aquatic plants that will partially cover the water surface to your pond. Aquatic plants will not only shade the water below, they will also absorb some of the sun's energy, keeping the water cooler. Buy plants that will grow easily in your U.S. Department of Agriculture zone. In the warmer USDA zones of 7 to 10, where pond evaporation is more of a challenge, you can use plants such as yellow floating hearts (Nymphoides peltata), water lilies and green taro plants (Colocasia esculenta).

Add free-floating water plants, such as water lilies and duckweed, in quantities that block approximately 40 to 60 percent of the pond's water surface. At this rate, the floating plants' flowers and foliage help to shade the pond effectively to keep it cool and reduce sun exposure, and in turn minimize the risk of algae blooms and weed invasions.

3. By Spreading Surface Films on the Reservoirs and Lakes:

Though still under experiment stage this method when used will prove to be most economical and of practical utility. The method is based on the principle that a thin layer of oil film when spread on the water surface is capable of reducing evaporation to significant extent.

Experiments have shown that a compound called hexadeconal or cetyl alcohol derived from tallow, sperm oil or coconut oil is capable of forming monomolecular film on the water surface. This material is white, waxy, crystalline, solid and is generally available in flakes or powder form.
It is relatively tasteless and odorless. It is pervious to oxygen and carbon dioxide. It is also nontoxic to living being. It is a polar compound in which one end of the molecule is hydrophilic and therefore, shows great affinity for water whereas the other end is hydrophobic and repels water.

Because of this property it forms a monomolecular film on the water surface. The film so formed is only about 15 x 10-4 mm thick but it is tight enough to prevent water molecule from escaping the water body. It is flexible and moves with the motion of water surface without breaking. The film is penetrable by rain drops but the film again closes after allowing rain drops to enter.

It is estimated that such a film may reduce evaporation by one-third. Theoretically only 25 gm of hexadeconal is sufficient to spread a mono-molecular film on one hectare of water surface. In practice, however, due to working problems as much as 100 times of theoretically required quantity may be necessary. Even then it is quite economical and promising. Combination of hexadeconal and octadeconal was also used for better results.

4. Plant tall bushes or trees around the outside of your pond to shade the water. Choose hardy, marginal pond plants around the edges of your pond, such as sweet flag, pickerel weed and soft rushes. Such low-maintenance vegetation serves several beneficial purposes, including keeping debris from falling into the pond (soil runoff and organic debris increase water nutrient levels and encourages algae growth) and also casting shade along the edges of the water. Try to choose evergreen bushes and trees that drop few leaves or seed pods to keep the water clear. If you choose a tree or bush that can get messy, plant it farther away from the pond where it will still provide shade but will not drop leaves or seeds into the water. The leaves or seeds can change the chemistry of the pond and may even be toxic to pond fish.

5. Install a trellis on the edge of the pond in a position where it will block the afternoon sunlight. Afternoon sunlight during the hottest part of the day causes the most evaporation. The trellis will shade the pond during this time. To provide extra shade, plant a vine to grow up the trellis.

6. Reduce the amount of agitation caused by any water features in the pond. Waterfalls and filters that splash and agitate the water cause the water to evaporate more quickly.
Things You Will Need
Aquatic plants
Bushes
Trees
Trellis

7. Add nontoxic pond water dye to the water while you're waiting for your free-floating pond plants and marginal plants to become established. Such over-the-counter dye products, available in most pond stores and many nurseries, add pigment to the water, which reduces ultraviolet penetration into the water.

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1. By Keeping Free Water Surface Area Minimum: Reservoirs and lakes are the water bodies with large surface area. It is possible to reduce the surface area by adopting following measures: (a) The reservoir site may be selected in such a way that area to storage ratio is minimum.

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strategies to collaborate effectively in the workplace

1 your leaders need to invest in building trust

2 u need to have strong collaboration

3 gather feedback and give feedback about what they did good and what they needed work on

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In order to do anything well, team members need to work together.

Teamwork and collaboration are must-haves for any work environment. Yet still, many teams and employees struggle to collaborate effectively.

After all, there are plenty of factors that go into collaboration. Communication and strategy impact collaboration. Conflict resolution and the ability to solve problems matter in collaboration. Even the types of collaboration tools can have an impact on how well your teams work together.

Team collaboration requires certain skills and capabilities, whether your teams are remote or in-person. According to a Gensler survey, a majority of employees say their jobs rely on collaboration .

Businesses everywhere are struggling with how to optimize their workforce. With some organizations downsizing in response to economic uncertainty, teamwork is more important than ever. Organizations are also working to maintain and sustain positive company cultures while keeping collaboration a key attribute of their teams.

In this post, we'll talk about how your teams can collaborate effectively. We'll also talk about the role of leadership in creating a collaborative culture. After all, collaboration can be the factor that drives your organizational performance.

Creating a collaborative workplace

In order to create a collaborative environment, your leaders need to invest in building trust. So much of building trust stems from leadership.

First, employees need to feel psychologically safe in their work environment. They need to feel like they can show up as their whole selves to work. After all, personal and work lives have melded together more than ever before. Especially in hybrid and remote work environments, successful collaboration hinges on the example that your leadership team sets.

Second, employees need to be able to communicate effectively. It's impossible to work well with co-workers without effective communication.

But communication is more than just sending emails, Slacks, or participating in face-to-face meetings. It's the ability to communicate when a project hits roadblocks.

It's the ability to resolve conflicts and overcome disagreements in healthy ways. It's the ability to communicate the decision-making process. It's the ability to connect the larger purpose of work to the day-to-day tasks. At the end of the day, communication is what helps employees understand common goals.

"People are getting new skills and then bringing them to their teams, exponentially helping others. You can feel the energy and you see how people are reaching across the aisle and busting silos to help each other."

Larry McAllister, VP, Talent & Development, NetApp

Third, employees need the right collaboration tools. For example, my team uses Slack and Asana to manage workflows, update each other on projects, and share valuable information.

Project management tools like Asana are what help to keep our deliverables on track. It's helped to make us an effective team to help meet and exceed our clear goals.

Of course, communication tools are just part of the foundation that'll help your team collaborate well. But it's important your teams invest in building key skill sets to help maximize the potential of your organization's communication tools.

Collaboration skills can come to life with the right tools. But your team needs those skills and capabilities as the foundation. Then, the tools help to become that vehicle or vessel for delivery.

The importance of effective collaboration

There are plenty of organizational benefits to effective collaboration. Your entire team and business can benefit from effective collaboration. Here are four reasons why building effective collaboration skills are important.

One huge advantage of effective collaboration is better Better problem-solving skills. Companies solve problems. For the most part, the value a company brings to the market is its ability to solve complex problems well. While those problems vary, every company will come across issues that need resolving.

problem-solving skills. When team members know how to work well together, teams are better equipped to innovate. Collaborative work lends itself to innovation and problem-solving.

Improved, open communication. Collaboration isn't possible with communication. But good collaboration happens when communication is open, transparent, and effective. Research backs this up. In fact,

Communication can break down silos between teams to help better solve problems. Communication helps to get ahead of conflicts before they arise. But as we know, not all conflict is bad. Good conflict resolution hinges on good communication skills, which all contribute to how well a team works together.

86% of executives cite communication issues as a major cause of failure in collaboration. Especially when video conferencing and remote collaboration are more common than ever, it's important to invest in building soft skills.

Increased goal attainment. Effectively working together means teams are better positioned to reach their goals. For businesses, this translates into a boost in productivity and performance. Overall, effective collaboration directly impacts an organization's bottom line.

At BetterUp, we've studied the impact of connections on the workforce. First, we know that when employees feel connected to one another, they're more likely to thrive. Connections and collaboration go hand-in-hand. Together, they have a huge impact on your Thriving company culture. Collaborating well is about connecting. It's how employees are able to connect with one another to work together toward a common goal. It's how employees build trust and psychological safety in their work environment. It's how employees find friends at work and feel safe enough to show up as their whole selves. Employees high in social connection experience better well-being, better professional growth, and a boost in goal attainment. But we also know that 43% of employees don't feel connected at work.
company's culture.

8 ways to collaborate effectively

If you're looking for ways to maximize collaboration in the workplace, here are eight steps to help you get started.

8 ways to collaborate effectively

Build psychological safety and trust

Get good at delegating

Implement a decision-making framework

Empower open and transparent communication

Create professional development opportunities

Build conflict resolution skills

Set key milestones and goals

Gather feedback

1. Build psychological safety and trust

Your leaders need to invest in laying a foundation for psychological safety. Managers have an incredible influence over the employee experience. As our diverse workforce expands to all corners of the globe, it's important to measure your organization's psychological safety.

For example, BetterUp Labs recently studied the impact of belonging and psychological safety on the LGBTQIA+ community. The results? LGBTQIA+ folks still don't feel comfortable showing up as their whole selves to work. In fact, 73% of the LGBTQIA+ participants reported showing their authentic selves to people in their personal lives. But only 35% said the same about their work lives.

But what do belonging and safety have to do with collaboration? A lot more than you may think. If employees don't feel safe to be themselves, it's likely they aren't engaged at work. It can impact everything from voicing a new, bold idea in a meeting to suggesting ways to improve an old process.

Your organization can use employee engagement surveys to help measure your psychological safety. At the core of it, your leadership team should be leading by example. Manager training on how to build inclusive leadership skills is imperative to building trust within teams.

2. Get good at delegating

Leaders who know how to delegate are an important step to effective collaboration. No one likes a micromanager. A micromanaging boss not only increases their own workload. But they also undermine trust, stifle leadership skills, and increase anxiety in the workplace.

Good leaders need to delegate effectively to help teams spread the work across themselves. Team collaboration simply wouldn't work without effective delegation.

3. Implement a decision-making framework

You've probably heard of plenty of decision-making acronyms in the workplace. There's a reason why so many exist - decisions are hard to get right.

Especially as organizations and teams grow, decisions can get more complicated. Ultimately, it can lead to missed opportunities and stunted productivity.

At BetterUp, we use the ACID framework: approver, contributor, informed, and driver. At the start of any cross-functional or collaborative project, we outline the ACID. Doing so helps every teammate understand their roles and what's expected of them. It helps to manage clear expectations, set clear goals, and effectively collaborate.

4. Empower open and transparent communication

Especially with remote teams, communication can slip through the cracks. I've worked for companies where I was afraid to admit or share a mistake that I made. Instead, I held onto that mistake, knowing all too well that my hiccup could impact the final outcome of a project. Why? Open, transparent communication - and psychological safety - wasn't encouraged.

At BetterUp, my manager often encourages open communication. I'm not afraid to make a mistake anymore because I'm not afraid to ask for help or to own that mistake. I know that I can learn from my failures instead of hiding them.

In order to effectively communicate, your employees need to feel empowered to communicate openly and transparently. This can be the good things, like hitting key milestones or goals. But it should, more importantly, be the challenging things. Like when something doesn't go as planned or the strategy or problem has evolved.

5. Create professional development opportunities

Like many skills, collaboration isn't a skill that people are born with. It takes awareness, intention, and work.

But in order to learn and grow, employees need opportunities to do so. They need professional development avenues to help build the skills and capabilities they need to succeed. How are you offering employee development opportunities? In what ways can you make sure your employees know you support their learning pathways?

6. Build conflict resolution skills

Conflict in the workplace is inevitable. We're all human with perspectives, opinions, and experiences that are bound to clash. Especially if there are misaligned priorities, teams will come across conflict - especially when trying to collaborate.

In order to collaborate effectively, teams need to understand how to resolve conflict in healthy ways. Again, this goes back to building trust.

For example, leaders can host team building or virtual team building events to help employees get to know each other. Or your leaders can offer workshops or courses focused on how to handle conflict in the office.

7. Set key milestones and goals

Collaboration may not be an intuitive aspect of a goal. But at BetterUp, it's something that we think about often.

As a company, we operate on OKRs: objectives and key results. They're company-wide goals that help keep us focused on what's most important and what will have the most impact. And there's not a single OKR that doesn't require cross-collaboration.

When you're setting your business goals, take a minute to notice the threads. What goals can help empower collaboration across teams? What goals will have the most impact? How are you adjusting or setting goals to encourage collaboration to maximize your employees' potential?

8. Gather feedback

Collaboration isn't a one-and-done skill. If we boil it down to its joints, it's a relationship. Collaboration is constantly going to evolve because people and relationships evolve. And one of the most important things in any sort of relationship is feedback.

How are you gathering feedback on how you're collaborating? How are you encouraging your team members to do the same? Do you follow up with your employees to ask how things are going with collaborative projects?

When I work with a new team or establish a process with a teammate, I tend to always ask for feedback. It's a good practice to get into the habit of. It helps to establish trust, safety, and opens the door for open communication. But it also helps to keep bettering things - processes, relationships, and projects.

Start collaborating effectively

Collaborating well is about connecting with others, gathering feedback, and bettering the relationship. The outcomes can result in increased productivity, performance, and trust. But at its core, effective collaboration is about bettering people and relationships.

No matter where your business is in its collaboration journey, BetterUp can help. Access to coaching can help your employees build key competencies to be able to work together well.

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8 Strategies to Collaborate Effectively in the Workplace

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Teamwork makes the dream work. Here are 8 ways to help your team collaborate effectively and build a culture that fosters collaboration.

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how to make a squirrel snare

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How to Make a Squirrel Snare (with Pictures) - wikiHow

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Squirrels may be cute little critters but they can also cause extensive damages to homes or gardens and carry diseases. They are found in many areas, preferring to live in forests but thriving in suburban and urban environments as well....

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so for my job im gonna make a a bargaining stand when you start a bargin don't be afraid to make the first offer and make sure u discuss very openly about what u want

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Tracks-

1. Find tracks,

2. Figure out what animal track it is,

3. Figure out its last location (most tracks in a single area),

4. and finally very very very very very very very very very very very peacefully ............. HUNT >:)

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Coyote tracks look like dog tracks, but with two dashes above their two middle toes.

Deer tracks look like a horse's hoof but slightly smaller!

Bunny tracks are oval shaped with mini claws on the inside!

Those are just three of the amazing "feet" of the animal kingdom! Check out the book for more!

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Tie the bag tightly around plant and wait patiently for some of the water to evaporate. When it evaporates it turns to condensation and drips to the bottom of the bag.

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Introduction: Extract Clean, Drinkable Water From Plants

Water is the most important thing if you are stuck in the wilderness. Sure, food is important too, but you can live for a while without it; you can't survive more than a few days without water. Unfortunately, in many environments there is either a lack of water, or the water is unsafe to drink. Fortunately, there are often plants. When plants absorb water from the ground they filter out many impurities, and you can extract this clean water from them. Plants transpire water, meaning that water vapor evaporates from the leaves, and this water can be collected. The great thing is, this process doesn't harm the plant and can be repeated over and over again on different branches, and works relatively quickly.

Thanks to everyone who voted for me in the Great Outdoors Contest!

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Step 1: What You Need:

- A plastic bag, preferably clear (check the bag beforehand to make sure it is free of holes. If not, seal them with tape.)
- String
- A plant (I will go over what types of plants work best in the next step)

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Step 2: Choosing the Plant

- The best types of plants are those with large, green leaves. Berry bushes also work well. There is a conspicuous lack of trees in my back yard, so I used a blueberry bush. Avoid toxic plants!
- Select a plant that receives a good amount of sun. The heat from the sun will speed the transpiration process.
- Choose a branch that has a large number of healthy leaves; give it a shake to dislodge any insects or debris that might be on the branch. Place your plastic bag over it. Tie it very tightly; you don't want any water vapor to escape during the process.
- Make sure that part of the bag hangs lower than the point where you tied the bag to the branch. Water will run collect there.
- You will want to have several bags up at once, since one branch doesn't provide enough water to live on.

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Step 3: The Process

- It will take about 3-4 hours in sun to get a decent amount of water from the plant.
- After about 30-60 minutes water will begin to condense on the sides of the bag.
- After another hour or so much larger droplets should form. These will start to run down the sides of the bag and collect in the lowest point.
- You should get at least 1/3 a cup of water after 4 hours.
- Before drinking the water pour it through some fabric like a t-shirt to filter out anything that may have fallen into the water.
- Reattach the bag to another branch and restart the process.

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Extract Clean, Drinkable Water From Plants

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Extract Clean, Drinkable Water From Plants: Water is the most important thing if you are stuck in the wilderness. Sure, food is important too, but you can live for a while without it; you can't survive more than a few days without water. Unfortunately, in many environments there is either a l...

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Lean branches against the windward side of the tree (so the wind is blowing into it and not against it) to make a wall. Make the wall thick enough to keep out wind. This will help keep the structure upright.

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Start by building a rectangular frame from logs. Fill the frame with debris, such as dried leaves or pine branches. The debris will provide insulation that will prevent the ground from drawing heat away from the body. This is extremely important, as most body heat is lost through ground transfer.
Step 3: Frame the Shelter
It's important to remember that this type of shelter is for emergency use. Therefore, the shelter cavity should only be large enough to fit your body. The most efficient design for this type of shelter is an A frame. Adjust sticks from each side of the shelter so they meet at the top. Continue to construct the frame, placing the sticks from front to back. During this phase, it is important to think outside the box and be creative in how the sticks lock together.
Step 4: Pile It On
Once the frame is constructed, it's time to add a thick covering of debris over the entire outside of the shelter. This is the most time-consuming part of building a natural shelter. Pile leaves, sticks, and branches over the entire frame. This insulation should be 4 to 8 inches thick, enough to hold back rain and keep the inside of the shelter dry.

The most important thing to recognize when creating a survival shelter is that it is a temporary shelter designed to keep you alive rather than comfortable. Natural debris shelters are typically damp and cool inside, and they may even leak a bit. Being uncomfortable and alive is better than the alternative.

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How to Build a Survival Shelter | The Filson Journal

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Dan Wowak is the owner and instructor at Coalcracker Bushcraft and the Appalachian Bushman School. He's been an avid outdoorsman since childhood. His passion for the outdoors began while fishing and hiking with his grandfather in the hills of Appalachia. Here he shares his expertise on building a survival shelter out in the wilderness, from natural materials.

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First you gather up logs and make a rectangular shape frame then add dried leafs on the floor.

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Rain Barrels, you can make your barrel out of plastics and/or rubber you find.

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Outfitting a house with a rain barrel does more than collect and conserve rainwater: It saves money, too. Well-placed rain barrels help cut utility costs by collecting free water for gardening, lawn watering or even washing the car. And homeowners are taking note.

"There has absolutely been an increase in the popularity of rain barrels in the last decade," says Francesca Corra, a Los Angeles-based landscape designer. She says that drought and mandatory water restrictions have highlighted the need for water conservation in California.

A rain barrel might sound like a breeding ground for mosquitoes or a potential eyesore, but it's surprisingly easy to maintain and to camouflage these cost-cutting green home features. Here's what to know if your clients want to add a rain barrel or spruce up an existing rain barrel before a home resale.

Benefits of Rain Barrels

Interest in rain barrels is rising, but as with many green concepts, the learning curve is still vast. Real estate professionals have a unique advantage in educating clients who don't know much about this affordable water conservation solution.

After all, says Corra, homeowners were once concerned that solar panels could detract from a home's appeal. Now? Fifty-two percent of American homeowners have already installed, or given serious thought to installing, solar panels.

Rain Barrels Conserve Water

"One of the most important things everyone should be looking at right now is ways to retain any rainwater that falls on our properties and not send it out into the street. Is one rain barrel the solution to our drought problem? No, it is not. However, it does help," Corra says.

"I have easily saved at least 500 gallons of water so far this spring and summer," says Laura Peet, a homeowner and gardener with two 50-gallon rain barrels on either side of her Charlottesville, Virginia, home. Though Virginia is far less prone to droughts than are desert regions in California or Arizona, Peet says the clay soil tends to dry out quickly.

Rain Barrels Keep Landscaping Lush

"Whatever amount [the rain barrel] keeps from going out into the street is water saved for the plants in the garden," says Corra. "Trees, especially, will always need more water, and they are in danger right now as more and more people are turning off their irrigation."

Peet uses rain barrel water to keep her raised vegetable gardens lush. Tracey Zeeck, a communications director and homeowner outside Oklahoma City, also enjoys using her rain barrel as an accessible, above-ground water source for gardening.

"I think it's fun to capture it and use it when you want to-free water!" Zeeck says, adding that her husband thinks the plants thrive more when watered with harvested rain versus chlorinated city water.

Rain Barrels Attract Eco-Conscious Buyers

There's no denying that more and more clients care about going green.

Fifty-one percent of real estate professionals say their buyer clients are interested in sustainability, according to National Association of REALTORS® data. Twelve percent of homeowners cite green home features as a reason for purchasing their current home, and 10% consider "landscaping for energy conservation" to be "very important."

Rain barrels can play a small but important role in sustainability and water conservation. Saving rainwater "creates an awareness that we are doing something to help our environment," says Corra.

How to Prevent Problems With Rain Barrels

Conserving water is excellent, but homeowners also need to keep their rain barrels from becoming problematic. Breeding insects can quickly destroy the tranquility of a yard.

Here's what experienced rain barrel owners suggest for maintenance.

Drain water regularly. A rain barrel isn't meant to hold water indefinitely, says Corra. "Identify areas with the most need-i.e., trees, vegetable gardens, potted plants-and let the water out within a few days of the rain," she adds.

Install a mesh screen on top. If a rain barrel does not arrive fitted with a fine mesh at the entry point, installing a screen or fine netting is vital to keep debris and mosquitoes out of the water.

Carefully consider position and elevation. "During a strong storm, the barrels will overflow, and you don't want a steady stream of water to run against the house," Peet says. "I have them nestled in gravel to keep any water flow away from the house."

Conservation Chic: Can Rain Barrels Boost Curb Appeal?

There's no reason to be concerned about rain barrels ruining the look of a home, according to Peet and Zeeck. And when they're carefully selected to match the architectural style or disappear into the landscaping, these reservoirs of free water might actually boost curb appeal.

"Water barrels come in many shapes and sizes," says Peet. "The ones I've purchased look like bourbon barrels, and I think they add a nice charm to my Craftsman-style home."

With an increase in demand comes an increase in options, so homeowners are likely to find a rain barrel that fits the aesthetic of their home. It might also act as a conversation starter among like-minded potential buyers. After all, anyone who buys that home can now clearly signal a commitment to green living-and a lower water bill to prove it.

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What Homeowners Should Know About Rain Barrels

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Sustainability is trending, especially among young buyers, and an aesthetically pleasing rain barrel offers cost savings and curb appeal.

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This can protect our fire from going out !!!!!!!!

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A few good fire structures are a tepee, a log cabin, platform, or star. The best structure to cook food with is a platform fire.

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Ultimate Guide to Building a Campfire

After a day spent outside, nothing is as comforting as a warm, crackling campfire.

Campfires are the heart of a campsite. People seem to be naturally drawn to them. Whether we come to warm our hands, roast some s'mores, sing a few songs or share stories, a campfire gathers people close together.

However, building the perfect campfire isn't as simple as tossing a few logs in a pit and lighting a match. Creating a good campfire is an art, and like any art, it requires patience, experience, good supplies and the right knowledge.

Different Types of Campfires

In many ways, a fire is a fire - they keep you warm, help you cook and create a cozy atmosphere. However, not all fires are created equal. Various types and styles of campfires will provide different effects, including heat output, cooking potential and length of burn.

Here are five of the most common campfire types - experiment with a few different ones on your next camping trip.

1. Tepee or Cone

One of the classic fire shapes, the tepee or cone fire gets its name from the shelter it resembles.

A tepee fire has a circular base with a wide diameter, letting in plenty of oxygen. To build a tepee fire, begin by laying down a large bundle of tinder. Next, use small pieces of kindling to form a tepee shape above the kindling. As the fire grows, continue to add larger sticks to the tepee structure.

One of the benefits of a tepee fire is its easy maintenance - simply lean more sticks against the frame to feed the fire as it burns. Because a tepee fire burns through wood fast, it is generally used to warm up quickly or for small cooking tasks such as boiling water.

If you want to use a tepee fire to cook a meal, wait until the wood burns through, and the cone collapses. Set a small pan or pot on the coal bed and feed the fire with small sticks or twigs to keep it going.

2. Log Cabin

For a fire that is long-lasting and easy to maintain, try a log cabin arrangement.

Begin by stacking wood as if you were building a cabin - place two pieces of wood parallel on the bottom, then stack two on top, perpendicular. Repeat the process until your fire reaches the desired height, then place tinder and kindling in the center square and ignite.

Use your broader pieces of wood for the bottom and add thinner, lighter pieces for the top. You can also experiment with tapering the shape as it grows taller, creating more of a pyramid shape than a cabin.

As they burn, the logs fall in on one another, constantly feeding new wood to the coals. Because of this, a log cabin fire tends to burn more slowly than a tepee, making it a good choice for the evenings when you want to spend a few hours around a crackling blaze.

3. Platform or Upside-Down Pyramid

Similar to the log cabin type, the platform fire was designed to cook food. The main difference between the two styles is that the logs of a platform fire are stacked closer together, and you start the fire at the top instead of the bottom.

Because you start a fire at the top of the wood, the fire burns down the logs instead of up. This creates a solid, flat platform of hot coals, perfect for cooking - you can set pots or pans directly on the coals, and the fire will sustain itself as it burns.

To build a platform campfire, start by laying three or more pieces of firewood on the ground. Place three or more on top, perpendicular to the first layer. Keep adding wood until the fire is at least three levels high, and then set tinder and kindling on top of the platform.

4. Star

When you are low on wood supplies, the star fire may be the perfect solution. It uses whole, un-split logs and burns them slowly at the ends to create a long-lasting and efficient fire.

To begin, gather four or five logs of any length. Build a small tepee fire with kindling, and drag the logs around it - one end should face the fire, and the other should lead away from it, like the points of a star or the spokes of a wheel. The tepee fire in the center will ignite the ends of the logs. As they burn, push the logs closer to the center to replace what has already been consumed.

5. Lean-To

If you've camped in breezy conditions, you have experienced the frustration of trying to start or maintain a fire in high winds- it can feel as though you are constantly battling the elements, trying to sustain a blaze long enough to cook food and keep warm.

Next time you are in the great outdoors during high winds, try building a lean-to fire. Using its own wood as a windbreak, a lean-to protects your flames from frustrating gusts.

For the simplest style of a lean-to fire, find or place a thick log on the ground and lay your tinder against it, away from the wind. Lean your kindling against the log, so it covers the tinder - once you ignite the tinder, the kindling will catch and begin slowly burning the log. As the fire grows, gradually add larger sticks to build it up, and add another full-sized log to the fire when it is big enough.

Materials You Will Need for Building a Campfire

Before you leave for a camping trip, make sure you pack or will have access to the supplies below. Also, always check with the park or campground's policies before gathering your own materials at your campsite - some locations don't permit campers to forage for tinder, kindling or firewood to protect the environment.

1. Tinder

Tinder is the smallest, easiest-to-catch materials used in building a campfire. Common types of tinder include:

Cardboard strips or pieces

Wadded up paper

Wood chips or shavings

Dryer lint

Pine needles

Dry leaves or grass

Candle wax

Commercial fire starters, sticks or bricks

You can usually gather tinder around your campsite. However, if conditions have been wet or you are worried about tinder not being readily available, you can always bring some tinder with you to make the fire-starting process easier.

2. Kindling

Kindling is larger than tinder but smaller than firewood. The most common types of kindling are small twigs or branches.

Make sure your kindling is thin - if it is too thick, it won't catch and will extinguish your small fire.

3. Firewood

Firewood is the fuel of a fire, and the most important element of good firewood is dryness. For the best campfires, you want firewood that is completely dry - it will light easily and maintain a good flame.

Most campers don't have a preference when gathering or purchasing firewood - during a camping trip, you take what is readily available. However, below are some of the common types of firewood, so you know the distinctions between each species if you have to choose:

Oak: Oak is one of the most popular types of firewood. It is a dense and slow-burning wood that produces a hot, minimal-sparking fire.

Beech: While beech firewood can burn hot and long, it must be properly seasoned for at least a year - beech wood is heavy and dense, so it needs to dry a long time before use.

Maple: Maple trees are dense and hard, and maple firewood is known for producing a long-burning campfire with high heat output.

Birch: Birch is a softer type of firewood that tends to burn quickly. However, it also gives off plenty of heat, creating a cheerful, bright campfire.

Ash: Lightweight and easy to split, ash firewood tends to burn hot, slow and steady.

Cherry or Black Cherry: With a lovely aroma and low amounts of smoke, cherry is a favorite wood for cooking, especially for smoking meats such as pork, beef, chicken and fish.

Check your location's policies carefully before attempting to gather firewood - many campgrounds sell firewood at the campground store, so you don't have to worry about packing or gathering firewood once you have set up camp.

4. Spark or Flame Source

The final thing you need is a spark or flame source.

Knowing how to start a fire with just a few sticks is a valuable survival skill. However, unless you have practiced the technique and are confident in your ability, consider packing matches or a lighter.

Flint and steel, matches, lighters and other fire starters can reliably produce a spark or flame to get your fire started.

How to Build a Campfire

Once you've gathered your supplies, you're ready to begin building your campfire.

Keep in mind that a fire needs three things to succeed: good fuel, a spark source and proper oxygen flow - even if you have great firewood and a lighter, if the pieces of wood are too close together, the flame won't get enough oxygen and will quickly die out.

Follow these steps to build an impressive campfire on your next trip:

1. Choose a Safe Spot

The first step in building a campfire is finding a safe spot.

All KOA campground campsites have a designated fire pit or fire ring, but you should still check the surrounding area to make sure there are no dead branches overhead. Clear away anything close to the fire pit that might catch fire from a stray ember or spark, and avoid starting a fire near dry grasses or brush.

In backcountry locations where fires are allowed, use an existing fire ring if possible, and only build a new ring in emergencies. Ideally, the base of your fire ring or pit should be mineral soil, gravel or sand - intense heat can sterilize healthy soil, so choose your site carefully. Make sure to clean out the fire ring of any debris before you leave the campsite.

2. Create a Tinder Bed

Once you've found a safe spot, set down a layer or bundle of tinder.

Make sure you use enough tinder - if you lay down too little, the flame will quickly die out before catching the kindling on fire. Wind or wetness could extinguish a small flame, so protect your tinder from any wind or soggy surfaces.

3. Add the Kindling

Next, stack kindling on top of the tinder.

The exact way that you lay your tinder will depend on the type of fire you are building. For example, if you are building a platform fire, you will need to build up a stack of firewood before setting your tinder and kindling on top. Alternately, for a lean-to fire, setting kindling below and around your tinder can help a spark catch.

Make sure your tinder is small enough to nurture a small flame and dry enough to easily catch fire.

4. Build Your Fire

Now, build the frame for the rest of your fire.

Think about what kind of fire you need - are you looking for a steady cooking fire, or are you wanting a hot, slow-burning fire that will keep you warm all evening?

Some fires, like platforms, stars or lean-tos, require the larger pieces of firewood to be present from the beginning. However, other types of campfires are built gradually as the flame grows.

For example, with a tepee fire, begin by arranging the kindling in a tepee formation around the bed of tinder. Continue adding larger and larger pieces of kindling as the fire grows, working your way up to firewood.

5. Celebrate!

Congratulate yourself on building a beautiful campfire, and get excited about the delicious meal or warm blaze you are about to enjoy. Next step, lighting your campfire!

How to Start a Campfire

Once you've constructed your campfire layout, the next step is to ignite it.

If conditions are favorable and you've built a solid fire, you should be able to start it by simply lighting the tinder with matches or a lighter. However, if your campsite is too windy or humid, you might experience some trouble.

It's better to prepare for a difficult fire-starting process than be caught by surprise - consider packing some waterproof matches or extra tinder that is sure to catch, like bits of broken candle wax. Once a lighter or spark has caught the tinder on fire, blow gently at the base to provide oxygen. This increases the intensity of the blaze, and it helps the flame ignite the larger pieces of kindling or firewood.

Have extra tinder and kindling ready and on-hand to feed the flame once you get a spark, and keep adding tinder and kindling until the larger pieces of firewood catch. You may need to gently fan or blow on the fire depending on which type of campfire you have built to make sure it receives enough air flow and oxygen.

Best Way to Start a Campfire With Wet Wood

When you're camping, you never need a fire more than when cool and damp out. Sometimes, the cheerful glow of a campfire is just what you need to warm up your campsite. However, starting a campfire in wet conditions is notoriously frustrating, even for seasoned campfire-starting experts.

Try these campfire tips if you're stuck in the rain on your next camping trip:

Look for sticky materials: In wet conditions, look for spruce, firs, pines or other needle-bearing trees. Their wood has sticky, highly flammable sap, which makes them a great choice for starting a fire. Evergreens are also known for keeping out the rain - look for dry wood underneath their canopies.

Split wood and kindling: Split pieces of wood to help them catch faster. Instead of using whole sticks and twigs for kindling, snap or cut them in half - the exposed inner, drier wood will light easier than the bark exterior.

Peel off the bark: Bark is designed to protect a plant from fire, and most barks aren't flammable. Carve, peel or tear away the bark from your kindling to expose dry wood underneath the surface.

Light low from the windward side: Heat rises, and fire climbs - start your fire low, and the heat from the fire will dry out the wood as it climbs. Also try lighting your fire from the windward side to let the flames move through your sticks, setting them on fire faster and more efficiently.

Adjust the shape: If you are having a difficult time keeping a fire going, opt for a taller shape - many fires are doomed from the start because the layout of the wood is too flat. Choosing another style like the tepee allows the heat from the fire to efficiently dry out the wood, prolonging your fire and producing more heat.

Consider bringing along some fire helpers as a last resort - fire bricks, dryer lint or cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly are guaranteed to catch fire, making the process less time-consuming.

How to Build the Best Campfire for Cooking

Not all fires are great for cooking. Try one of these cooking fire types, arranged by what you want to cook and available supplies:

Cooking with pots and pans: Platform fires are intended for cooking over with pots or pans. If you have brought these materials with you on your trip, try building a platform fire for the best results.

Cooking with sticks: If you plan to cook your food using sticks or skewers, a lean-to or tepee fire is your best bet - they are easy to build and burn hot, providing you with a fast meal.

Cooking with foil: For cooking hobo packs or other foods that can go directly into the coals, any fire can work. However, wait until it has produced a solid base of coals for the best results.

While it's possible to cook something using any heat source, save yourself time and energy by building one of these fires specifically designed for fast, efficient meal preparation.

Remember Fire Safety

An unattended fire can damage both the environment and your supplies - stay safe by following these fire safety tips:

Stick to designated spots: Unless you are camping in the backcountry and are experiencing an emergency, only light campfires in designated fire pits or fire rings.

Watch your fire: Stay with your fire while it is burning - never leave it unattended.

Put it out before you sleep: Once you are done with your fire, extinguish it safely and thoroughly. Never leave your fire or campsite without making sure your fire is completely put out.

Keep water or dirt on-hand: Keep a bucket of water, dirt or sand on-hand to quickly extinguish a fire in an emergency.

On average, humans cause approximately 84% of fires across the United States each year - with the right precautions, you can make sure you keep your campsite safe.

Test Out Your Campfire Skills at a KOA Campsite

With a little practice, you will become a campfire-building master in no time. Practice your skills in some of the country's most beautiful locations when you visit a KOA campground.

With the largest collection of private campgrounds in the world, KOA has nearly 500 locations across North America. KOA is dedicated to providing and maintaining high-quality campgrounds with a broad range of amenities and site options - whether you are looking for Tent Sites, Camping Cabins, RV Sites or even a more unique lodging option KOA has a campsite that will perfectly suit your needs.

At every KOA campground, you will have access to clean bathrooms, hot water, laundry facilities, a KOA store and on-site fire features like fire pits and fire rings. Test our your campfire building skills at a KOA campsite - reserve your campsite today.
About the Author: Kampgrounds of America
Kampgrounds of America is the largest system of open-to-the-public campgrounds in the world, with over 500 locations across the United States and Canada. Founded in Billings, MT in 1962, KOA's family of campground brands - KOA Journey, KOA Holiday and KOA Resort - today serve more than a million camping families each year. KOA is dedicated to "connecting people to the outdoors and each other" by providing people with a variety of camping experiences and the information they need to make the most of their camping trip. Read more of their camping and travel resources by visiting KOA.com/blog.

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Ultimate Guide to Building a Campfire | How to Build a Campfire

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Building a campfire is one of the most important parts of any camping trip. Use our guide to learn everything you need to know about building the perfect campfire.

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Filtering your water will prevent you from getting sick and drinking unpurified water is dangerous.

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How to Make a Water Filter - H2O Distributors

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It is important to know if berries are edible or not because it would not be good to get sick while in the wild.

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Now how does one know which berries are edible? The best way is to learn about various species of harmful berries. Although eating a lethal berry just one time will not harm you, it will cause serious discomfort. While this list cannot cover every poisonous berry in North America, it will give you a solid set of guidelines from which to work.

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This article was co-authored by wikiHow Staff. Our trained team of editors and researchers validate articles for accuracy and comprehensiveness. wikiHow's Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. This article has been viewed 804,081 times.

Updated: September 4, 2023

There are many types of poisonous berries in North America, and some of them look similar to edible berries. If you're not 100 percent certain that a berry is safe to eat, don't take the risk. In general, white and yellow berries are almost always poisonous, and around half of red berries are poisonous. There are also blue and black berries that are poisonous. One kind of berry to avoid is the yew berry, which is bright red with an exposed brown seed in the center. Yew berries grow on evergreen shrubs. You should also avoid holly berries, which are bright red and round and grow on shrubs with waxy, pointy leaves. Pokeweed berries are another type of poisonous berry. They're dark purple and grow in clusters on bright pink stems. They can also be green. American bittersweet berries are also poisonous. They grow on vines and have an orange-yellow capsule around them. The berries themselves are an orange-red color. Cotoneaster berries are poisonous too, which are red, hard berries with star-shaped bottoms. They grow in clusters on an evergreen shrub. Steer clear of snow berries, which are white berries that grow in bunches on bushy shrubs. You should also avoid Virginia creeper berries, which are dark blue and grow on a vining plant with 5-leaflet leaves. Symptoms of berry poisoning can include nausea, vomiting, dizziness, diarrhea, convulsions, blurred vision, and cramps. Some poisonous berries can be lethal. To learn how to identify common poisonous berries, like Deadly Nightshade and Mistletoe, keep reading!

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 804,081 times.

"I have a bush in the back yard of a house that I just moved into that resembles a red current bush. It had no fruit last year, but this season it has small red berries. Looked online to see what a current bush looks like, but the leaves are slightly different. With your info about testing on arm then lips and so on, I will know for sure. Thanks. " ..." more

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How to Identify Common Poisonous Berries in North America

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Now how does one know which berries are edible? The best way is to learn about various species of harmful berries. Although eating a lethal berry just one time will not harm you, it will cause serious discomfort. While this list cannot...

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A simple way to keep water from evaporating is to key the water in the shade and away from heat.

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HOW TO PREVENT WATER EVAPORATION IN YOUR SWIMMING POOL

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Save money and help stay green by decreasing water evaporation. Pool circulation features, a cover, and pool pumps are some of the many ways to keep your pool cool more often in the Arizona heat.

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https://growagoodlife.com/improve-garden-soil/

To inrich soil you can find decaing organic matter or compost, in doing so you will give the soil more nutrients to grow food.

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Healthy soil is important for growing strong, vigorous plants that resist pests and diseases and produce abundantly. Whether you are starting with fresh, quality soil or gardening in your native topsoil, improving your soil is a continuing process.

Soil is alive and made up of many parts, including mineral particles, water, organic matter, air, and microorganisms. The balance between these parts is what needs to be sustained for a healthy garden.

Just like all living things, soil needs to be fed in order to provide a nourishing environment to grow your vegetables.

The Basics to Healthy Garden Soil

Healthy productive plants start with healthy garden soil. The soil feeds the plants so it must be fertile to support plant life. Soil must also be loose to allow for root growth, drainage, and air circulation.

Healthy soil will be rich in nutrients, minerals, and organic matter. The organic matter is the key, since it provides nutrition for the soil, promotes a bio-diverse sub-culture in the soil, which benefits plant life, and promotes drainage and aeration for the soil.

What is Organic Matter?

Organic matter is anything that contains carbon compounds that were created by living organisms. Some examples are plant debris, shredded leaves, animal manure, and grass clippings.

What Does Organic Matter Do for the Soil?

Organic matter plays a key role in supplying plants with nutrients, improving soil structure, binding pollutants, and aiding in soil buffering.

Organisms in your soil break down organic matter and convert it into nutrient-rich humus. As organisms feed on the organic matter, they tunnel and create pockets and lighten the soil allowing air and water to reach the roots.

A soil that starts out as mostly heavy clay will compact easily, become waterlogged, and prevent air, water, and nutrients from reaching the roots. Adding organic matter to clay soil will help improve the structure by allowing the soil drain better and make it easier for the plants' roots to grow.

A soil that is light and sandy will drain quickly before the roots can get nourishment. Adding organic matter can also help sandy soil hold together better and retain more moisture and nutrients.

7 Ways to Improve Garden Soil

Any type of soil can be transformed into healthy garden soil with a little dedication and hard work. Improving your soil takes time and is an ongoing process. Organic matter needs to be replenished frequently to keep the cycle going. Below are seven ways you can improve garden soil.

1. Add Compost

Compost is decomposed organic matter, and it is the best thing you use to improve the health of garden soil. Working compost into soil will feed the soil, improve soil structure, enable soil to retain nutrients, promote good drainage while also absorbing water deep in the soil, keeps soil loose so air can reach plant roots, helps maintain a neutral pH, and protects plants from many common garden diseases.

Compost also feeds earthworms and other microbial life in the soil. The worms will tunnel through the soil to improve aeration and drainage while leaving behind their castings to increase soil fertility. Learn more about making compost in this article: How to Get Started Composting at Home

2. Get a Soil Test

Adding compost is not a once-and-done type deal. It is part of a continuous process to renew nutrients in the soil. Conduct a soil test every few years to determine what additional nutrients are needed to promote plant growth and production.

Soil testing kits are sold online and wherever garden supplies are sold and are very easy to do yourself. Soil samples can also be taken to your local county extension office for a more in-depth analysis.

A basic soil test gives readings for soil pH, potassium (K), phosphorus (P), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S). A soil test will also let you know the level of organic matter, lead content, and give you recommendations for adjusting these levels.

Once you understand the nutrient shortages in your soil, you can nourish with soil with organic amendments for a boost of nutrients. For example, alfalfa meal can add nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium to the soil. Worm castings are a great amendment for nitrogen. Bone meal provides phosphorus and calcium. Most often, a regular dose of all-purpose organic fertilizer is all that is needed.

3. Mulch the Soil Surface

Mulch is a must for healthy garden soil and strong plants. It stimulates natural growing conditions, retains soil moisture, keeps soil cool, and prevents weed growth.

The mulch will slowly decompose and add organic matter to the soil to increase fertility. Check out this article for 5 Ways Organic Mulch Helps Your Vegetable Garden

4. Prevent Soil Compaction

Soil that is hard and compacted will not allow water and nutrients to soak in and the soil becomes barren and dry. Tiny plant roots cannot spread out in search of moisture and nutrients, so plants dehydrate and starve. Compact soil also impedes microbiological activity necessary to convert organic matter to nutrients that feed the plants.

Clay soil tends to compact easily with just the weight of winter snow and ice. Adding organic matter over time will balance the soil structure.

Working with soil that is too wet will also compact the soil. In spring, wait until the snow melts and the garden drains, and the soil is dry enough so a handful of soil doesn't stick together.

Prevent soil compaction by staying off of it. Walking on the soil compresses it and prevents water, air, and oxygen from reaching the roots.

Instead, establish permanent garden beds by dividing up your area to growing beds and walking paths so you never have to walk on the soil.

Size your garden beds so you can reach into all areas without stepping on the soil, about 3-4 feet wide. Allow enough room in between the beds for a wheelbarrow to fit through or a manual lawnmower if you are keeping grass in your paths, about 2-feet minimum. Check out how we built our raised bed garden with this tutorial: How to Build a Square Foot Garden

5. Rotate Crops Each Year

Planting crops in different garden locations every year prevents the depletion of nutrients and interrupts the cycles of pests and diseases so the garden soil stays healthy.

Potato pathogens provide a good example of how crop rotation keeps garden soil healthy. Nematodes and fungi that cause scabby skin patches on potatoes increase rapidly in the soil during just one growing season. This year's crop may not be affected, but if next year's crop is planted in the same location; it will be destroyed by the hungry disease organisms that are in the soil from the previous season. The disease spores and organisms will die out naturally if they do not feed on their preferred crop.

Follow the three-year rule for all garden crops. Rotate crops each year so that the same family of vegetables is not grown in the same place for three years. That gives enough time for soil pathogens to die.

Some plants also add to soil health. Peas and nasturtiums add nitrogen to soil. You can replenish the soil by planting nitrogen-producing crops after growing nitrogen-taking crops. Learn More About Crop Rotation for Your Vegetable Garden.

6. Grow Cover Crops

Cover crops are grown primarily to benefit the soil, but some of them can serve double-duty by providing food too.

Planting a cover crop near the end of the garden season and allowing it to remain in the garden during the winter provides multiple benefits for the garden. A cover crop protects the soil from being eroded by heavy rain, winds, and snow melt-off. The crops will also prevent the soil from compacting, and stop weed growth during warm winter months.

Crops like kale, radishes, turnips, and other broad-leaf greens are ideal for use as cover crops and food sources during the winter. Clover, ryegrass, legumes, and peas are also good cover crops for winter.

Turn under any remaining crops in spring to act like a green manure. The cover crop plants will decompose after being turned under and increase soil fertility. Learn more about Growing Cover Crops in Backyard Gardens.

7. Add Aged Animal Manure

Add aged animal manure to improve garden soil health and fertility. Fresh animal manure is too hot and will burn plants, and may harbor pathogens harmful to humans. So allow the manure to age for several months to a year before adding to garden soil.

Chicken, cow, rabbit, horse, goat, sheep, and bat droppings are rich in nutrients and will improve soil structure when incorporated into garden soil.

Animal manures can be contaminated with pesticides and herbicides and cause herbicide injury in your vegetable garden. Once it is in your soil, it is difficult to eliminate. If you purchase manure, get assurance from the farmer that the animals didn't graze on or eat hay treated with pesticides or herbicides.

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Improving and building healthy garden soil is an ongoing process that will reward you with vigorous, thriving plants that will produce abundant harvests from your vegetable garden.

Do you have any tips to add? Let us know in the comments below:
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Good planning is key to a successful vegetable garden

Whether you are new to growing your own food or have been growing a vegetable garden for years, you will benefit from some planning each year. You will find everything you need to organize and plan your vegetable garden in my PDF eBook, Grow a Good Life Guide to Planning Your Vegetable Garden.

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Healthy soil is important for growing strong, vigorous plants that resist pests and diseases and produce abundantly. Use these tips to improve garden soil for a thriving vegetable garden.

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What Plants are good to eat -Boaz Toalson :)

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What Plants are good to eat -Boaz Toalson :)

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Find many different plants

Document the plants(Take pictures , use graphs , Ect)

find out what plants are good to eat

document in your journal

tell other people

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Rebecca Chapa and Olivia COOLey ᕕ( ᐕ )ᕗ FIRE

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Rebecca Chapa and Olivia COOLey ᕕ( ᐕ )ᕗ FIRE

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🔥FIRE🔥 How to build it ୧(＾ 〰 ＾)୨

R=Rebecca O=Olivia

Find a good area R,O

Clear it R,O

Collect bark O

Peel small pieces of bark R

Make a tiny ball from the tiny pieces of bark R

Collect long stick for making the fire. O

Make the fire with the stick by spinning it in your hands (Or you can make it with the bow) R

Make the fire bigger by lightly blowing on it R

Peel more bark, getting slightly bigger pieces every time. R,O

Put sticks in the fire and collect logs R,O

Make sure the fire doesn't go out R,O

Try to find something to put over the fire so the wind doesn't blow it out R,O

As the fire starts getting smaller, add some of the sticks and logs you had collected earlier (10) R,O

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you can use these plants to make your house fire proof

1 buckwheat

2 lemonade berry

3 oak

4 manzanita

5 woolly blue curl

6 catalina cherry

7 yucca

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Consider all the potential solutions to help save your home during a wildfire and landscaping seems an obvious choice.

But are the drought-tolerant solutions that many of us have already implemented - turf removal among them - enough to fend off fire?

According to landscape designer Cassy Aoyagi, president of FormLA Landscaping, choosing plants that are authentic to our region is one way to help slow advancing fire.

"Many native plants take longer to burn than some of the invasive weeds such as pennisetum and pampas grass," Aoyagi says.

Non-native invasive plants such as the wild mustard that took over Los Angeles hiking trails last spring help to promote fire. "It's like kindling," Aoyagi adds. "What we need are authentic landscapes - landscapes that are natural to this place - that will make us more resilient [to fire, slides, floods] and give us a look that is ours alone."

To combat invasive plants that may blow in from your neighbor's yard, Aoyagi recommends using smart irrigation rather than overhead spraying (this leads to germination), heavy mulching and ground covers.

Aoyagi views the recent La Tuna fire, which destroyed five homes and scorched more than 7,000 acres, as an opportunity to talk about how our landscape affects natural disasters.

The key, she says, is to be authentic and to think about what comes after the wildfires.

"If a sumac burns, its roots are still intact," explains Aoyagi. "When it rains, which we know it will soon, those living roots will retain slopes. In contrast, pennisetum has shallow roots that won't provide much protection. Natives, like sumac, will also recover faster. Basically, natives protect us through the ups and downs of our climate. They are adapted to 100-year droughts, floods, as opposed to the plants we've been using."

Here, Aoyagi describes seven of her favorite fire-resistant natives that are particularly useful in supporting L.A.'s fire resilience.

There are so many buckwheats, all with a distinctive beauty. The common ground is remarkable, pom-pomlike blooms.

Also an edible, lemonade berry makes a great hedge substitute. You can make a nice, tart tea from its berries.

Oaks are one of California's truly iconic trees. In addition to aiding fire resilience, their expansive canopies can cool our communities. Placed correctly, they can ower air conditioning costs by about 50%.

Even when its evergreen foliage is burned away, manzanita's resilient trunks and branches have an architectural beauty that is hard to match. As if that weren't enough, it is edible.

Woolly blue curls is a highly fragrant, 3- to 4-foot evergreen shrub with violet flowers in fuzzy spikes. Again, so beautiful.

Wildlife love the berries, and so do we.

Our Lord's Candle is already beginning to sprout in the area burned in the La Tuna fire. The yucca has an almost iridescent quality when in bloom. Virtually every bit of it is edible at some point during the year. It is a great aesthetic exchange for those who like the look of pampas grass.

Here are some smart examples of putting native, fire-retardant plants to good use:

Authentic Foothill Gardens, Sierra Madre City Hall: Installed two years ago, the foliage in the fire garden adjacent to the fire station will look like it will in a residential garden, as it is on a smart irrigation system. The foliage is varied in color, lush and leafy, and performs year round. SierraMadreGardens.com.

Sunland/Tujunga Welcome Garden: A community project led by Roger Klemm removed highly invasive grasses that had been proactively planted at the intersection of the 210 and Foothill Boulevard. The garden now showcases the best of the more than 300 heat- and drought-resilient species native to the area, including those from coastal sage scrub, chaparral, and oak woodland communities. Sunland Welcome Nature Garden

Sunland/Tujunga Fire Station: This now 100% native garden is the result of an Eagle Scout Project by Travis Whitcomb. It includes a specimen oak that shades the station and more than 70 native plants ideally suited to high-heat and fire-prone areas like Sunland. It now stands in vibrant contrast to the charred hillsides consumed by the La Tuna fire. Los Angeles Fire Department - Station 74 - Tujunga / Sunland

Rosemont Preserve: Mostly preserved and unaltered space, however, Arroyos and Foothills Conservancy swapped invasive plants for fire-resistant and slope-retaining natives last year in an effort to protect nearby homes from fire and slides. arroyosfoothills.org/rosemont

Source: FormLA Landscaping
lisa.boone@latimes.com Twitter: @lisaboone19 For an easy way to follow the L.A. scene, bookmark L.A. at Home and join us on our Facebook page for home and garden design, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest. ALSO: Inspiration -- and tips -- for drought gardening La Tuna Canyon fire road leads to views of city, peaks, even the ocean A Malibu retreat that is modern, fresh and fire resistant Did succulents save her home?

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These 7 fire-retardant plants may help save your home

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Like protective wrap, this vegetation can fend off flames. An expert weighs in on how to landscape in wildfire country.

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The first thing to learn about tracking is knowing where to look for animals. Much of this is done by what is called "sign tracking". Signs are indications of an animal (ex: trails, scat etc.). About 1/2 of tracking is sign tracking the other 1/2 is working with actual tracks.

Herbivore Needs (* = most important)

*Cover - thick tangles of vegetation, brush, rocks, to hide in and escape to

*Wide variety of vegetation - a single type of vegetation is cleaned out. A good supply is necessary to be able to stay in the habitat/home. Going outside of the habitat is dangerous. Therefore, having various types of vegetation that come in at different times helps to maintain an ongoing food supply.

Water - this is not essential since many herbivores don't need it. They get water from dew and from the plants they eat.

Indicator Animals - the presence of these animals is an indicator of the "value" of the habitat. If one of these is present it is a good habitat, if all are it is an excellent habitat.

Vole - most prolific rodent, and a major food source for all predators

Rabbits

Deer

Types of Habitats

Deep Forest - very poor as an animal habitat. There is little undergrowth and poor cover. The vegetation is not very varied. Generally there are some raccoons, birds, rabbits, but very few others.

Fields - also very poor. There is little or no cover except at the side of the fields. The middle of the field is open territory for hawks and owls.

TRANSITION AREAS - these are excellent locations to find animals. A transition area is zone of intersection between two habitats. Ex. Forest and field, field and stream, forest and stream. These offer wide varieties of vegetation and cover.

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Tracks
"The earth is a manuscript, being written and unwritten every day. The Pine Barrens are a geological track, the Mississippi River is a track, and so are the Rocky Mountains. The track/print/geology is made and then slowly worn down or built upon by the forces of natural erosion and gravity. Gravity ultimately wants everything to be at the same level. A track is the earth's reaction to your passing over it. From each passing there are a series of concentric rings than ripple out. The track itself is one such ring, so is the call of the blue jay that scolds you as you walk beneath his tree."
from John Stokes '74"Tracking is like learning to read. First you start with the ABC's then you work up to simple sentences, then to paragraphs and finally to books. Ultimately, with practice, you can read very difficult books with a great deal of hidden meaning.""A track is a window to the past of an animal. Look at the ground as if it were a manuscript of the animal's life." "Every pock, hill, dome, etc. is the track of something. A dent in the forest floor may be the track of a fallen branch."
from Tom Brown

Learning to track is a sacred responsibility. It gives you the ability to come into the center of the lives and homes of animals. You must treasure this gift and respect the animals by being non-intrusive. Getting too close to animals can cause serious disturbances including: abandoning young, disturbing nesting grounds, damaging foraging areas, and may even cause the animal's death. For example, in winter, many animals are severely stressed to gather enough energy to stay alive. Escaping from a human prescence could rob them of enough energy that they can no longer sustain themselves. Always remember that you are only a visitor into their habitat.

The first thing to learn about tracking is knowing where to look for animals. Much of this is done by what is called "sign tracking". Signs are anything besides a track proper that is an indication of an animal (e.g. trails, scat etc.). About 1/2 of tracking is sign tracking the other 1/2 is working with actual tracks.

I. Landscape Tracking - this is reading the landscape to locate animals. In most landscapes there are "islands" where many species will be found. One way to look is to find the best "islands" for herbivores. Wherever there are herbivores, carnivores will follow. The areas between the islands will tend to be scarce of animals except as an area for animals to pass through.

Herbivore Needs (* = most important)

*Cover - thick tangles of vegetation, brush, rocks, to hide in and escape to

*Wide variety of vegetation - a single type of vegetation is cleaned out. A good supply is necessary to be able to stay in the habitat/home. Going outside of the habitat is dangerous. Therefore, having various types of vegetation that come in at different times helps to maintain an ongoing food supply.

Water - this is not essential since many herbivores don't need it. They get water from dew and from the plants they eat.

Indicator Animals - the presence of these animals is an indicator of the "value" of the habitat. If one of these is present it is a good habitat, if all are it is an excellent habitat.

Vole - most prolific rodent, and a major food source for all predators

Rabbits

Deer

Types of Habitats

Deep Forest - very poor as an animal habitat. There is little undergrowth and poor cover. The vegetation is not very varied. Generally there are some raccoons, birds, rabbits, but very few others.

Fields - also very poor. There is little or no cover except at the side of the fields. The middle of the field is open territory for hawks and owls.

TRANSITION AREAS - these are excellent locations to find animals. A transition area is zone of intersection between two habitats. Ex. Forest and field, field and stream, forest and stream. These offer wide varieties of vegetation and cover.

II. Travel Routes - Animals will tend to take the easiest route of travel across a landscape (just like you and I - around boulders etc.) unless they are being pursued. This results in the creation of a number of "roadway systems" within the habitat. Sticking to a roadway system when being chased is poor. The prey is usually smaller than the predator and therefore tries to push through tiny openings in deep brush where the larger predator can't follow.

Trails - are species nonspecific. Any number, size, and shape of animal will use them. These are the superhighways of the woods. They are frequently used and rarely changed. Animals know them intimately. There may be troughs, no vegetation or battered vegetation.

Runs - these are less frequently used and are very subject to change. There is some definite wearing into the landscape but varies. These are very specific to a particular animal and what it is used for (e.g. runs may connect watering areas, bedding areas, feeding areas back to a trail). Survival Note: Runs are good areas to trap. You know what animal you are going for.

Escape Routes

Pushdown - Generally only used once, crashing through the brush from a trail or run to escape. Brush is broken down.

Established Escape Route - a pushdown used repetitively. It often leads to a hide.

III. Animal Sleeping Areas

Bed - any consistent sleeping place. It is well chosen to be in the thickest area of brush to be able to hear a predator coming.

Transit Bed - an established bed used every so often.

Lay - usually used only once or twice. Used for rest, chewing cud, etc. Can be recognized by broken and crushed vegetation.

Den - only used to bear and raise young.

Ex. Fox is an open ground sleeper, it curls up in the brush. For birthing it excavates a hole or uses an old groundhog hole for a den. Ex. The groundhog hole is a place for the groundhog to live. While it is raising young it is a groundhog den.

IV. Feeding Areas

Varied Run Feeding area - where animals go through and eat off of the trail or run further and further. (80%)

Single plant feeding area - characterized by a run terminating at a single plant or group of plants of one kind.

Eat-through - where an animal or animals has literally eaten through a patch of vegetation and come out the other side.

Patched - marked by irregular nibblings along the edges of established trails or runs

This makes up the largest assortment and most definitive sign. It is found all over especially on trails and runs.
I. 8 Most Important:

Rub - polished areas on the landscape

Unintentional - animal rubbing up against an object that protrudes onto the trail (e.g. a branch).

Intentional - specific area where an animal is rubbing itself. E.g. deer scraping velvet off antlers, wallowing in dirt to rid itself of mites etc.

Hair and Feathers - especially at a rub or a projection where the hair or feather gets snagged. Clumps of hair may either be purposely pulled out by the animals or clumps of hair or feathers may indicate a kill site.

Gnaws and Chews

Gnawing - like a beaver, on nuts, trees bones (rodents get their calcium from gnawing bones). You can tell the animal by the size of the teeth marks.

Chews - where a plant has been bitten off (twigs, stalks of grass, etc.)

45 degree Clean Cut - caused by an animal with incisors - rodent

Little serrated edge - deer - pull grass up against upper palette and sickle it off by pulling neck up

Masticated - teeth marks all over possibly with saliva - a predator chew, used to get minerals

Break - not a chew, this is caused by animal movement.

Scratchings - these can be all over, made by claws digging in on trees, scampering over sticks, boulders etc.

Intentional - for example a skunk or raccoon scratching in the ground for grubs, cat or bear sharpening claws on a tree.

Unintentional - from the animal's passing

Ground Debris - any debris on the ground that is scratched, pinched, dented, abraded unnaturally, holes, stone rolls, broken twigs etc. (stone roll = a stone out of its bed, rolled over, skidded etc.)

Upper Vegetation - vegetation breaks (see above), plants abraded and broken by animal passage. The location of the break (how high up) indicates type of animal. You can age a break by clearly noting how the vegetation has aged at the break and doing a sample break to observe and time. This is not as accurate as track aging.

Scat - tells an incredible amount. Scat tells you the type of animal by its size, shape, and consistency. It tells you what the animal has been eating. Animals leave scat in areas which they feel safe. This means that it is a good area to look for animals. Scat is often found near lays.

Scat Analysis: First determine the family shape. Then lay the scat on a piece of paper, cut it down the center carefully, then quarter it. Take a pair if tweezers or a toothpick and pick away at the edge carefully. Separate the contents into piles of bone, feathers, hair, misc. in order to see what the animal's been eating (this is for carnivores). If you find a skull, check Peterson's Field Guide to Mammals for skull or teeth identification. Herbivores tend to show loose, mushy scat in the summer because they are browsing on soft succulent vegetation. As summer turns to fall you will find more evidence of nuts, seeds, and fruits. In winter the scat becomes quiet hard and compact consisting mainly of the more woody buds, twigs, and bark. Avoid using your fingers to work with scat (wear gloves). If the scat is dry and dusty, don't inhale the dust (can lead to lung infections).

Tubular - Dog Family, raccoon, skunks, oppossum, wolverines, bearsTear drop or Tapered - Cat FamilyFattened Threads - Weasel FamilyM&M's - Rabbits & HaresOblong, may have nipple at end - DeerPencil Lead - RodentsFox - Tubular & Tapered at both ends - between dog and cat

Aging Scat: can be aged but to be at all accurate you need to see it come out of the animal. Leave a popsicle stick marker and check it every so often. Scat dries from the inside out. Find some fresh, pick it apart and examine the contents. Come back later, pick another apart and see how it has changed over time.

Pellets: Raptors (hawks, eagles, and owls) regurgitate pellets of what isn't digested. These pellets consist of bones, hair and/or feathers.

Compressions - this is both a track and a sign. On any surface there are dust particles and grit which collect. When anything walks over this surface it either presses the grit into the surface or removes it. You can see this using the sideheading technique.

Sideheading: Keep the track between you and the light source. Get you head down along the ground. Scan the ground with your bottom eye (bottom eye reads to 1 ft. top eye reads to 3 ft.). The compressions will appear as a shiny spot or a dull spot on the surface (depending on whether the grit is shiny or dull). When more dust settles it will add a layer to everything but the pock still is visible.

This is an interface between tracks proper and disturbances not on the ground which disappear (or seem to).

Dullings - in the morning with dew on the ground everything is shiny from the dew. If something crosses the grass it either presses or wipes away the moisture which appears as a dull area. This disappears as the dew evaporates.

Shinings - during the day everything begins to dull down. Anything walking on the grass presses it down and the shinny side of the grass catches the sunlight giving it a shining. The shininess disappears in about 2 hours. The bent grass recovers completely in about 24 hours.

Leaf Depression - leaves are compressed as an animal walks leaving a compression outline beneath the leaves in the soil (a true track). The leaves spring back up but not all the way leaving a depression. By sideheading you can see the depression.

When a track is made, the heel slides into the ground, registers and pulls out. No track will register straight down. There is always some angled component (looking at the track cross-section) either from the foot entering or the foot leaving.

The softer the soil, the greater the slope of the wall creating a larger distortion between the overall track and the true track. Most people don't read the true track. They read the horizon cuts (overall track) which does not give the true track measurement. The true track is the only real measurement for tracking. If you read the overall track you could not tell the difference between a dog track and a coyote track. E.g. on a dog the inner toes are larger than the outer toes; on a coyote the outer toes are larger. But this distinction will not show on the overall track.

You need to measure the length and width of all four tracks (2 in humans). When measuring animal tracks the length readings between tracks are measured from toe to toe because animals hit first with their toes. In humans it is measured from heel to heel because we land heel first.

Establish the Line of Travel- This can be done by eye if the tracks are clear or by placing popsicle sticks at the heel of the tracks and connecting a string to the sticks.

Length of Track - measure the length of the true track.

Width - measure the widest part of the track.

Stride - is measured from the heel of one foot to the heel of the other foot (i.e. right heel line to left heel line).

Straddle - if you draw a line of travel between the left heels and a line of travel between the right heels the distance between these two lines is the straddle. There is zero straddle and positive straddle.

Pitch - is the degree to which the foot angles out from the line of travel (pitched out). At the widest point of the track, draw a line bisecting the track along its long axis. The distance from where the line exits the front of the foot to the heel line is the overall pitch.

Overall Pitch - 1/2 track width = True Pitch

Ex. 4" wide track, 3" overall pitch 3 - (1/2 * 4) = 1" = true pitch

This is because if there is no pitch there would still be 2" from the line through the track to the heel line. So this measurement must be subtracted.

Ex. 2" - (1/2 * 4") = 0

Overall Stride - is measured from the heel on one side to the next heel on that side. Thus there is a left overall track and a right overall track. Comparison of these two can determine the orientation of the trackee.

Determining Orientation - The dominant side gives a short (punch) step while the nondominant side gives a long (feeler) step. Thus if a person is walking blindfolded they will circle to the dominant side. E.g. a right-sided person has a right overall stride of 20" and a left overall stride of 20 1/2". Thus the person will veer to the right. This is why a lost person often picks a path dictated by veering to their dominant side. Note: If you add 1 pound of weight for every 50 pounds of the person's body weight and carry this weight on the nondominant side it will straighten out the person's walk (no circling).

5% 1) Clear Print - when you can see the track clearly in soft soil, all toes visible.
95% 2) Pattern Classification - no clear print, you must tell track by general shape and size of track

CLEAR PRINT CLASSIFICATION

The front and rear tracks on one side will be near each other. You need to note the number of toes in the front track and the rear track. Looking at the track you will also note the type of preferred gait used by the animal (in order to differentiate between front and rear tracks).

Track Shape - the track shape is the overall shape of the track pattern.

Direct Register - as the front foot is lifted up the rear foot on that side drops directly into the front track (cats and foxes). Also called perfect walking.

Indirect Register - as the front foot is picked up the rear foot on that side drops slightly behind and to the right or left of the front track (depending on the sex of the animal).

ANIMALS

See Track Cards.

BIRDS

Ground Bird - spend most of their time on the ground and show a "walking" gait

Perching Bird - spends most time in the trees - shows a "hopping" gait

Mixed - if the track shows both walking and hopping it is probably a bird that splits its time between trees and the ground e.g. Crow

There are a number of different types of locomotion patterns. 90 - 95% of the time an animal will use this method of locomotion. In each case below the gait described is the normal walking pattern for that animal. As the animals speed changes this pattern will change (ex. moving slowly, in pursuit, being chased).

RF = right front LR = left rear, etc.

1) Continuum of Speed:

Stalk ------->Slow Walk -------->Walk ------->Trot ------->Bound ------->Lope ------->Gallop

2) Diagonal Walkers - the animal moves the opposite sides of the body at the same time (e.g. RF & LR move simultaneously)
Deer Dog Cat - cat and fox direct register by being completely off the ground at one point

3) Bound Walkers - the front feet land together, then the rear feet behind 99.9% of the time these animals use this pattern even when moving slow or fast. Stride measured from rear toes to rear toes.
Weasel Family - All Members Except Skunks & Badgers

4) Gallop Walkers - the front feet land first, then the rear feet come on the outside of the front feet and land ahead. 99.9% of the time these animals use this pattern even when moving slow or fast. Stride measured from rear toes to rear toes. The pattern doesn't change with speed. The distance between sets of tracks increases.
Rabbits Hares Rodents - Except Porcupine & Ground Hog

If the front feet hit at a diagonal = ground dwelling rodent e.g. Rabbit, and the front foot that is further back is the one that hit first - sidedness (punch step). If the front feet hit side by side, it is a tree dweller e.g. Squirrel (just like tree dwelling birds - "hoppers")

5) Pacers - move the same side of the body at the same time (e.g. RF & RR) - these animals have wide, rotund bodies. These are the exceptions from the other groups. 95% of the time these animals use this pattern. As speed increases, they change their pattern.
Badgers Skunk Porcupine Oppossum Raccoon Bear

6) Variations on Pattern Classifications - 5% of the time. All animals can change their gait. In particular, Diagonal Walkers and Pacers will change their pattern as their speed increases.

In between these major patterns there is a continuum of discernable pattern variations.

From Pacer to Diagonal = 16 patterns

From Diagonal to Bounder = 32 patterns

From to Galloper = 16 patterns

For speed, a slow walk for a Pacer is faster than a slow walk for a Diagonal Walker.

A stalk is generally the slowest pattern and is slower for both a Pacer and a Diagonal Walker.

Slow Walk - animal pushes body weight forward.

RR --> RF --> LR --> LF

Tracking by patterns allows you to track over hard ground over a long distance.
1. Diagonal Walkers

Stalk

Slow Walk

Pace when bored, annoyed, aggravated

Walk

Rarely hold a bound except in soft or rocky terrain - prefer to gallop; on clear terrain hold a bound on for a few patterns before going into a gallop - prefer to trot or lope - can go straight from a walk to a gallop (e.g. if suddenly frightened)

Species Note: Deer prefer to gallop for high speed except for the Black Tail Deer and the Mule Deer that prefer to bound because they live in rocky areas.
2. Bound Walkers

For a shear burst of speed will gallop - seen just before a kill

Will diagonal walk when approaching hunting territory e.g. slowing down to be more quiet

Will stalk when hunting game

Will pace when aggravated, bored or agitated, threatening, seen just before going out on hunt

Note: This is an example of how you can tell the "emotional state" of an animal by looking at its tracks.
3. Gallop Walkers

Prefer to gallop but will bound in soft terrain i.e. snow, mud or rocky terrain

Will diagonal walk if it needs to cover a shorter distance than a hop would cover, e.g. rabbit moves 2" over to feed

Will stalk when moving away from danger

Will pace when aggravated, threatening or bored

4. Pacers
Can go from a stalk to a gallop

1) Sidedness - if one front foot is behind the other over 4 - 5 tracks that foot is on the dominant side. The animal will have a tendency to circle in that direction.

2) Sex - (this works for diagonal walkers only). Deer for example, just because a track is deep or splayed wide does not mean that animal is male. There are variations in the size of animals of the same species from location (different amounts of feed). Male deer (bucks) and female deer (does) have different bone structure. Doe - pelvic girdle > shoulder girdle (for birthing). Buck - shoulder girdle > pelvic girdle (to support antlers). In order to tell the sex of the animal you must compare the animal to itself. Find the front track on one side. The look for the rear track on that side. If the rear track is to the inside of the front track = male, a rear track to the outside = female. This system works only for adult animals. Immature animals have not finished bone development and may have rear track falling exactly behind front track.
Cats are another example because they direct register. Then how do you tell whether the rear foot is inside or outside the front? In cats (and foxes) the front foot is larger (by 1/3) that the rear foot. Thus the rear track will fall in the front track and be to the inside or the outside. Inside = male Outside = female.

1) The single most important factor in track degradation (and thereby aging) is weather and weather fluctuations.

2) Gravity is the second major factor in track degradation.

3) The third factor is the type of soil. The only way to learn to age tracks is to observe a track degrade over time with given soil conditions and weather conditions. Soils are classified from 1 to 10 with 1 being sand and 10 being clay (soft to hard). You must estimate the soil classification first. Then keep an accurate record of weather changes and by observing a track you will develop a sense of how a track degrades in that type of soil with those weather conditions. Weather conditions to be aware of are temperature, humidity, wind, precipitation, and hours of direct sunlight on the tracks.

4) Wisdom of the Marks - Do this once a month for three months and you will cover all seasons for the type of soil in your area (if possible do it with various types of soil). Clean out rectangular area of soil. Remove all rocks, transplant plants etc. Dig down 2 inches, break up soil into smooth texture, pat it down smooth and leave it to settle for 24 hours. Using a stick or object approximately 1/2 inch diameter make 5 marks in a row in the soil with varying pressure from a touch to enough to go 1/2 inch deep. Look at the marks carefully for 10 minutes to ingrain into your subconscious what they look like. Write down weather conditions. Come back 6 hours later and repeat the entire process making the new marks with the same implement and the same pressures in a row next to the first marks. You will now have fresh marks and 6 hour old marks to compare. Study both for 10 minutes. Come back in 6 hours and again 6 hours after that and again in 6 hours. This will give you a comparison of track degradation at 6 hours, 12 hours, 18 hours and 24 hours. Then go back every 24 hours for 6 days and you will see the track age and degrade over a week. After doing this summer, fall, winter, and spring you will begin to learn how to age tracks to within 2 hours of their being made. It is also advisable to do this whenever you move into a new area for tracking.

1) File card learning Method - Read about an animal in the Peterson's field guide an prepare a scan card on a 3 x 5 index card. By scanning these cards during "blow off time," you will quickly learn to recognize tracks.

2) Tracking Stick - This can be either primitive ( a stick with notches cut into it) or advanced a dowel with rubber bands ("O" ring washers work great). The stick should be about 3' x 1/4" and very straight. The tip should be sharpened to give a point. The stick is used to measure a track and give you a standard for comparing and looking for the next track.

Tip to 1st mark = length

1st to 2nd = width

Tip to 3rd = stride

3rd to 4th = straddle

4th to 5th = true pitch

Since animals walk 95% of the time the tracking stick is a useful way to find the next track. If you lay the 3rd mark over the center of the last track the stick will point to the center of the area where the next track will be. To find the track add the straddle. If you don't find the track, ask yourself what does the landscape tell you? Uphill, downhill will shorten the stride; debris - does the animal understep or overstep it? Soft earth will have an effect on stride length.

3) Track Pack - Carrying these items with you will help in learning to track.

Magnifying glass - large 2-4 x, jewelers loop 10x

Tape measurer - thin, metal 8'- to measure stride, straddle etc.

6" plastic ruler - to measure track

Small notebook

Pen

Ziplock bags - for scat, bones etc.

Peterson's Field Guides

File Cards

Tweezers

Popsicle sticks and string

Price tags - for labeling.

All the information you need to find the next track is within the one you have. Never skip a track (cross-tracking); it doesn't teach you anything. If you hit "the wall" and can't find the next track, work at it, analyze it. This is how you learn to be a good tracker. If you spend 2 hours to find the next track, your skill will grow to a higher level.
In any tracking situation you need to be aware of what the local environmental hazards are in order to avoid accidents. This is a general list for a typical mid-Atlantic forest region.
Sample Environmental Hazards:

Scat - avoid handling it with your hands. When picking apart scat or pellets use a stick or disposable gloves. Dry scat contains numerous microorganisms and spores which if inhaled can lead to serious lung infections.

Poison Ivy, Oak, Sumac - The basic rule of "leaves of three, let it be" serves as basic identification of poison ivy. Know how to recognize it both in the plant stage and the vine stage. Typically found in moist soil areas.

Ticks - Tick bites can lead to a number of serious diseases including Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF) and Lyme Disease. RMSF is primarily carried by dog ticks. Lyme Disease is carried by deer ticks which can be very difficult to locate. See the enclosed articles on Lyme Disease. Often found in the thick brush at the edge of transition areas.

Bees & Wasps - nests often found in rotting logs where you may be looking for sign.

Rattlesnakes - often sun themselves on rocks in cool weather or hide in shadowed areas in hot weather.

Rabies - Rabies is on the increase in animals. Do not approach animals too closely. Rabid animals may appear anxious and aggressive or very docile. In either case they can attack very suddenly.

Hanta Virus - Hanta Virus is carried by rodents.

Animal Tracks, Olaus Murie, Houghton-Mifflin, New York, NY 1974.

A Guide to Animal Tracking and Behavior, Donald and Lillian Stokes, Little Brown, Boston, MA 1986.

A Field Guide to Mammal Tracking in North America, James Halfpenny, Johnson Books, Boulder, CO 1986.

A Field Guide to Tracking Animals in Snow, Louise Forrest, Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, PA 1988.

Tom Brown's Field Guide to Nature Observation and Tracking, Tom Brown and Brandt Morgan, Berkeley Publishing, New York, NY 1983.

Graphics adapted from the following:

A Guide to Animal Tracking and Behavior, Donald and Lillian Stokes, Little Brown, Boston, MA 1986.

A Field Guide to Mammal Tracking in North America, James Halfpenny, Johnson Books, Boulder, CO 1986.

A Field Guide to Tracking Animals in Snow, Louise Forrest, Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, PA 1988.

Tom Brown's Field Guide to Nature Observation and Tracking, Tom Brown and Brandt Morgan, Berkeley Publishing, New York, NY 1983.

The Tracking Project, Corrales, NM 1991.

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Tracks "The earth is a manuscript, being written and unwritten every day. The Pine Barrens are a geological track, the Mississippi River is a track, and so are the Rocky Mountains. The track/print/geology is made and then slowly worn down or built upon by the forces of natural erosion and gravity.

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How to tie a snare knot

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You can purify water using a UV light, and creating a filter out of materials that you find like sticks and grass.

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People are always dealing with conflict and it's good to know how to resolve it. It's very easy to misunderstand someone and have conflict with them.

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Different interests. People may focus on personal or departmental goals over organizational ones. Or be held up and frustrated by others who they rely on to do their jobs effectively.

Five Conflict Resolution Strategies

When you find yourself in a conflict situation, these five strategies will help you to resolve disagreements quickly and effectively:

1. Raise the Issue Early

Keeping quiet only lets resentment fester. Equally, speaking with other people first can fuel rumor and misunderstanding.

So, whether you're battling over the thermostat or feel that you're being micromanaged, be direct and talk with the other party. However, if you're afraid of making that approach, or worry that it may make the problem worse, speak with your manager first, or your HR department if the other party is your manager.

Either way, be assertive (not aggressive) and speak openly. This will encourage others to do the same - and you can get to the root cause of a problem before it escalates.

2. Manage Your Emotions

Choose your timing when you talk to someone about the conflict. If you're angry, you may say something you'll regret and inflame the situation. Be careful to avoid playing the blame game.

So stay calm, collect yourself, and ask, "What is it I want to achieve here?", "What are the issues I'm having?" and "What is it that I would like to see?"

3. Show Empathy

When you talk to someone about a conflict, it's natural to want to state your own case, rather than hear out the other side. But when two people do this, the conversation goes in circles.

Instead, invite the other party to describe their position, ask how they think they might resolve the issue, and listen with empathy.

Putting yourself in the other person's shoes is an essential part of negotiation. This helps you to build mutual respect and understanding - and to achieve an outcome that satisfies both parties.

4. Practice Active Listening

To identify the source of the conflict you have to really listen. To listen actively:

Paraphrase the other party's points to show you're listening and really understand them.

Look out for non-verbal signals that contradict what they are saying, such as a hesitant tone behind positive words. Bring these out into the open sensitively to address them together.

Use appropriate body language, such as nodding your head, to show interest and to make it clear that you're following them.

5. Acknowledge Criticism

Some of the things the other person tells you may be difficult to hear. But remember that criticism or constructive feedback is about job behaviors and not you as a person.

So, keep an open mind and use criticism to help you to identify areas to improve, perform better next time, and grow.

Glasers' Three-Step Strategy for Conflict Resolution

Conflict management consultants Peter and Susan Glaser recommend a three-step strategy for resolving conflict, and it draws on many of the skills we've looked at above. You can hear the Glasers talking about their model in our exclusive interview with them. [1]

The steps for these conflict resolution skills are:

Prove that you understand their side.

Acknowledge that you are part of the problem.

Try again if the conversation didn't go well.

Let's try a training exercise and apply each step to a fictional conflict resolution scenario.

Conflict Resolution Training Example

Imagine that the heads of two departments are in conflict. Product Manager Sayid changed the price of a product without letting Marketing Manager Gayanne know. As a result, the marketing team sent out an email to customers with incorrect prices. They had to send out a follow-up email apologizing for the error, and make good on the price some customers paid for the product.

1. Prove That You Understand Their Side

Instead of blaming Sayid, Gayanne asks him how he came to make the decision. She uses her questioning and listening skills to get the information she needs and to show that she's truly hearing Sayid's response.

She discovers that Sayid was pressured by a major client to drop the price or risk losing a contract. She empathizes, saying, "Yes, I've had difficulties with that client before, too."

As Susan Glaser says, "Only when you believe that I understand you, will you be willing to try to understand my perspective." [2]

2. Acknowledge That You Are Part of the Problem

If you're in conflict with someone, it's unlikely you're free of all blame. So admit your part in it. This leads to mutual trust, a better understanding of one another, and makes it easier to find a solution.

In our scenario, Gayanne could say to Sayid, "I should have shared our marketing strategy and email send dates with you. I'll do that right away."

3. Try Again if the Conversation Doesn't Go Well

Despite the progress they've made, relations between the two managers remain frosty, so Sayid calls Gayanne the following week. He says, "I was thinking about our conversation, and I'd like to try again because I'm not happy with how it went. I've had time to take your points on board, and I'd like to talk about how we can work together better going forward."

Remember that you get more than one shot at resolving a conflict. Susan Glaser says, "There's a myth that if we have a bad conversation with someone it's over. In fact, 'do overs' are powerful." [3]

Frequently Asked Questions
Why is conflict resolution important in the workplace?
Unresolved conflicts can hinder productivity and damage team dynamics. Effective conflict resolution helps maintain a positive work environment, promotes collaboration, and ensures issues are addressed before they escalate.
What are some common sources of workplace conflicts?
Workplace conflicts can arise from differences in communication styles, conflicting goals, personality clashes, misunderstandings, resource allocation, or competing priorities. Recognizing these sources is crucial for timely intervention.
How can a team manager effectively address conflicts among team members?
A team manager should act as a mediator and facilitator. Begin by listening to both sides, understanding perspectives, and acknowledging emotions. Encourage open dialogue, find common ground, and work together to find a solution that is fair and beneficial for all parties.
What strategies can managers employ to prevent conflicts from escalating?
Managers can implement proactive measures such as fostering a transparent communication culture, setting clear expectations, defining roles and responsibilities, and promoting team-building activities. By addressing potential sources of conflict early on, managers can prevent minor issues from turning into major disputes.
How does effective conflict resolution contribute to team productivity?
Resolving conflicts promptly maintains a harmonious working environment where team members feel valued and understood. This leads to improved morale, increased focus on tasks, and a more efficient workflow, ultimately enhancing overall team productivity.
When is it appropriate to involve higher management in conflict resolution?
Involving higher management should be considered when conflicts cannot be resolved at the team level or when the conflicts involve larger organizational issues. Higher management can provide a neutral perspective and additional resources to facilitate resolution.

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Conflict Resolution - 8 Ways to Resolve Conflict in the Workplace

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Discover skills and strategies for resolving conflict with your colleagues and reach positive outcomes even when you don't see eye to eye.

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Building a Medieval Fence: Bushcraft Skills

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Building a Medieval Fence: Bushcraft Skills

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First you have to nail in solid strait pieces of wood all the same length into the ground and then weave smaller peices of brush in between.

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Building a Medieval Fence: Bushcraft Skills

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How to Appoint our Leader

(Fairly)

First, me and Zoey will propose and inform others about this event. (suggest doing this event, etc)

Next, I will inform EVERYONE about how to apply to be a candidate, or be an option for leader.

Third, me and Zoey will decipher who applied to be a candidate, and the first 10 people to apply will be chosen. (First come, first serve. 10 max)

Fourth, Zoey will go around and inform EVERYONE about the given event date, which must be at least one week away from the time we inform everyone. (If date changes, we must inform EVERYONE.)

Lastly, both me and Zoey will hold the event on given date, allowing voting, and we must decipher the winner of the vote directly AFTER the event. The candidate with highest majority will automatically be picked. (If there is a tie, there will be a tiebreaker vote.)

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Tegan-How to build insulate and waterproof a shelter

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Tegan-How to build insulate and waterproof a shelter

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Build a strong shelter.

Test it to make sure that the shelter is sturdy.

Make sure to put sticks on the shelter so that you can put grass and weeds on it.

Identify any holes in the shelter and fill them with sticks.

Gather grass and weeds to put all over your shelter (this will waterproof and insulate your shelter). Once you have covered your shelter in so much grass that it looks dark in it you can get a bottle of water and test it if the water goes through your shelter then you need to add more grass and weeds.

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1. Go talk to them, and ask them what they're arguing about.

Go talk to the other person or people they are arguing with to get their point of view.

3. Get them to talk to it out about what they're arguing about. Listen to which one is more fair and reasonable.

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1. Collect materials

2. Make our fire place

3. Add a wind break

4. turn the fire place into a stove

5. start the fire

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If you can find a thin rock you can use it to sharpen a stick to pucture a can to make an effecient and cunservative way to water the farm soil.

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Collect grass and sticks (both)

Collect materials like shirt (Laney)

weave grass into tight filter (strainer)(Hannah)

Tie shirt on strainer/filter(Laney)

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go to each house and ask if they have had conflict. aislyn

if they have conflict ask who they have had conflict with. shelbie

go make a list of rules about the conflict and write down the peoples names by it. aislyn and shelbie

go to peoples houses and show them the rules so that they know not to do those certain things. aislyn

make sure people agree with the rules.

shelbie

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Making a rain barrel is quite easy watch the video to view the steps.

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Make Your Own Rain Barrel from a Garbage Can in 5 Easy Steps

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Follow these simple step-by-step instructions to make a DIY rain barrel out of an outdoor garbage can.

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It is important to know what the animal tracks are because how else would we know what animals roam the area.

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To make a strong structure you should use thin branches and put them at a forty five degree angle for your shelter./

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3 Ways to Build a Survival Shelter - wikiHow

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If you like to spend time in the great outdoors, it may be helpful for you to know how to build a survival shelter. This kind of shelter helps protect people who are stranded in the wilderness from the elements until they can be rescued....

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Animals insulate there homes too. We could use the same material they do. Like moss, animal fur, and plant fibers.

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On Monday, Nate talked about basic wilderness preparation and what to take care of first in a survival situation. After air, what's the most urgent priority? Shelter!

Today, we'll talk about the science of staying warm and dry, and learn from animals. Then, we have an experiment: can you build a shelter that stays warm?

What makes a good outdoor shelter?

Top of a basic wilderness shelter.

You might think about how comfortable the shelter is, or how protected it is. But one of the most important elements of a good shelter is how insulated it is.

Insulation is material that slows the loss of heat.

It is much harder to survive outdoors in the elements when your body is not at the ideal temperature.

Too much heat loss can even lead to hypothermia, a potentially deadly condition in which your body is way, way too cold.

The ideal body temperature for humans is between 97.7 and 99.8 degrees Fahrenheit. To stay at this temperature, our bodies constantly adjust themselves. We might sweat or shiver to cool off or warm up. Other warm-blooded animals, like deer or birds, do this too.

In contrast, cold-blooded animals like lizards and turtles can't control their body temperatures internally themselves. They have to use the outside environment instead. If you see a turtle basking in the sun, it is using the sun to regulate its body temperature!

We want to keep as much heat as we can in our shelter! To do this, we have to slow down conduction.

Conduction happens when two objects of different temperatures touch each other. Heat moves from the warmer object to the colder one. In a shelter, this could be heat traveling from your warm body to the cold ground.

Insulation slows conduction. Fluffy materials that trap air inside are good insulators: think of piles of leaves, bubble wrap, down feathers inside a coat, or bubbly styrofoam. The trapped air is a barrier for heat transfer between two objects.

In winter, this is why we humans wear extra layers of clothing! Clothing itself does not provide heat. But air gets trapped in a few places: Air gets trapped in the fibers of your shirt, or the fluffy stuffing of your coat. And air also gets trapped in between your layers of clothing, such as between a coat and a long-sleeve shirt. These air pockets stop heat from leaving your body and escaping into the colder air.

If you get cold easily like me, I also like to wear a thick hat, scarf, gloves and multiple layers of shirts over my coat when I am outside in winter. The more layers I wear, the warmer I feel because all those layers add extra insulation - which means less heat escaping from my body into the colder winter air!

When you are building your shelter, keep conduction and insulation in mind. Where are warmer objects (like people) touching colder objects (like the ground or air)? Add insulation in those places to prevent heat loss!

Animals Build Insulating Shelters Too

Wild animals might not understand the exact science of heat loss like we do. But they do understand that heat loss is dangerous.

Just like humans, animals also insulate their shelters to prevent heat from escaping their warm, cozy homes!

What Do wild animals use to insulate their nests or shelters?

Birds use a wide variety of materials to insulate their nests. Check out your local bird nests to see what materials different species use!

Some examples of nest insulation include:

What materials did this bird use as insulation for its nest?

Squirrels use leaves to insulate their nests. Their nests, or dreys, look like big messy leaf piles in tree branches. Our shelter experts, Joe and Nate, recommend humans use 6 inches of leaves on the ground of your shelter and 6 inches on the roof to stay warm!

Some mammals have thick fur that insulates them. Deer have hollow fur. Each hollow hair has air space inside. This prevents heat loss-similar to humans wearing multiple clothing layers!

Beavers keep their lodges insulated in winter. They use mud to seal any cracks where cold air might come through. Then, their family's shared body heat keeps the inside lodge temperature warm.

They have to be careful to not all leave the lodge at once to go foraging for food. Otherwise, the inside temperature would drop while they were away.

Muskrats are known to take advantage of these insulating lodges, even presenting the beavers with cattail treats to let them share the lodge in winter!

Want to create an insulating shelter that imitates a beaver, squirrel or bird?

Jello Baby Experiment Time

Materials:

jello

pot for boiling water

ziplock bag or cup

insulating shelter materials of your choice (you can use some ideas from above!)

Your challenge is to prevent a bag of jello from cooling and solidifying. Use what you learned about insulation above. If you insulate your jello well, your jello baby will stay liquid for a long time!

If you can't get jello, you could try this with a cup of water on a freezing night.

Step 1.

With a trusted adult, follow the directions on the jello box to boil your jello.

Step 2.

When your jello is no longer boiling hot, but still warm, pour your liquid jello into a ziplock bag and seal. This is your jello baby. Be a good jello parent and keep it safe and warm!

Step 3.

Gather some insulating materials. Use them to build a suitable shelter for your bagged jello. Play around until you find something you like.

Shelter materials could include: leaves, bundled up clothing, hats, moss, or twigs. But you can test whatever materials you want because this is an experiment. It might be interesting to see which materials are the LEAST insulating!

Place your jello baby inside the shelter once you are finished.

Pro-Tip: Get your shelter ready before making the jello, so your jello baby spends less time exposed to outside elements.

Step 4.

Check your jello baby every 10 minutes. Is it still in its liquid phase? Congratulations! You have insulted your shelter well enough to prevent the loss of heat and keep your jello baby warm.

Is your jello solidifying? Oh no! This means your shelter is not insulated enough. Add more materials to test which keep the heat from escaping your shelter.

See how long can you make your jello last. Eventually, all of the jello babies will solidify, since they can't make their own heat. They are more like a cold-blooded animal than a warm-blooded human.

Step 5.

Let us know in the comments how your experiment turned out! What materials did you use? Was it successful at keeping your shelter insulated? Why or why not? We would love to hear how your jello baby survived.

Stay tuned for more basic survival later in the week!

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On Monday, Nate talked about basic wilderness preparation and what to take care of first in a survival situation. After air, what's the most urgent priority? Shelter! Today, we'll talk about the science of staying warm and dry, and learn from animals. Then, we have an experiment: can you build a shelter that stays warm?

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You can limit the sun and heat from evaporating it by putting it in the shade.

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Evaporation occurs when molecules near to the surface of a liquid acquire enough energy to break the forces of attraction that pull them toward other molecules in the liquid. They acquire this energy because molecules in liquids are constantly moving about and crashing into each other. When they crash, they exchange energy. However, the exchange is not always equal; sometimes one molecule gets a lot more energy than it loses and "bounces" out into the air above. Stopping evaporation is then a question of restricting the energy available to the water and lowering its exposure to dry air.

Cool the water down or limit its exposure to heat by keeping it in the shade, adding ice or cooling with refrigerated pipes. This lowers the kinetic energy available to the water molecules, which slows the evaporation rate. With a large body of water you can do this by planting trees around the perimeter or stretching a shade-providing-canopy over the water.

Keep the water in a container with as little surface area as possible. Only molecules near the surface can evaporate, so the smaller the surface area the lower the evaporation rate. Containers that are deep and narrow or bottle-shaped are best for this.

Put a cover over the surface if possible, either a rigid lid or a floating cover as is used in swimming pools. This either limits the surface's contact with the air or creates a pocket of trapped air over the water. This soon becomes dense with water-vapor molecules and will not accept further molecules as readily.

Reduce the airflow over the water by positioning windbreaks such as hedges or trees around it. When water evaporates it forms a moist layer of air over the surface, lowering the capacity of the air to accept more water molecules from the liquid. Moving air draws water vapor away from the area over the surface of the water and replaces it with drier air, increasing evaporation.

Pour an impermeable, floating liquid such as vegetable oil into the water. A thin layer of oil will float to the surface and prevent water molecules from making contact with the air. However, in many circumstances it is not appropriate to use oil. In these cases use a special anti-evaporation compound that is not harmful to the environment.

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Evaporation occurs when molecules near to the surface of a liquid acquire enough energy to break the forces of attraction that pull them toward other molecules in the liquid. They acquire this energy because molecules in liquids are constantly moving about and crashing into each other. When they crash, they exchange ...

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Collection for water, you can use metal, a carved wooden cup, clay,and water barrels to hold water in.

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RainStore-USA, along with SmartWater Solutions Group, provides rainwater harvesting resources and products and consults on the wastewater, storm water, rainwater, and environmental disciplines.

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Conflict can arise during a disagreement between people sometimes. It's important to know how to handle it with you piers.

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You have to look at the bottom of shrubs and the middle of the burs that stick to your shoes.

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For many native species, collecting wildland seed is the first step in a lengthy process of making plant materials available for restoration projects. Successful seed collection involves planning ahead and monitoring for maturity. Suitable donor populations must be located and seeds must be collected at the appropriate time once they are mature. The window for collection is highly variable among species, ranging from only a few days to several weeks or longer. If the window is missed, collection must wait until the next year or growing season, at a minimum.

Forest Service seed collections are made by volunteers, staff, and professional collectors under contract. Regardless of the method, supervisory controls are in place to ensure that collection sites are not located within off-limit areas, such as in Research Natural Areas, sensitive or federally listed plant sites, or other environmentally sensitive areas. Also avoided are collection sites occupied by invasive plant species.

Sites

For each target species, collection sites are located using guidelines that ensure a representative sample of genetic variation is obtained. The specific number and distribution of collection sites will vary according to size, density, continuity of populations, and biology of the species sampled, as well as the desired quantity of seed to be obtained. A general rule of thumb is to collect from a minimum of five collection sites at least 0.5-1.0 mile apart. A larger number of collection sites may be needed for inbreeding plant species to adequately sample genetic variation among populations. Within-population genetic variability is sampled by collecting from a large number of widely spaced or unrelated plant parents (30-50 or more plants is optimal).

Collection Methods

Seed collection methods will vary depending on the species. Grass seed is harvested by stripping or shaking it off the stem, or by clipping the stem with scissors or small scythes just below the spikelet. Shrub seed is picked or lightly beaten or shaken, using a tarp to catch the falling seed. For species that dehisce explosively, the entire inflorescence may be cut prior to maturity and allowed to dry in mesh or paper bags, or under netting. Ladders may be required for collecting seed from taller shrubs, or plants can be lightly pruned with telescoping pole pruners. For large-scale harvesting, specialty equipment and machines may be necessary. Whatever the method, collections should always be conducted in a manner that does not damage existing vegetation or other resources. Ideally, at least 50 percent of the seed crop at a given site is left intact to allow for natural recruitment and regeneration of the native population.

Close monitoring is required to match the timing of seed collection activities to the distribution of seed maturation. Multiple trips to a site may be required for determining when the seed is mature, and also for collecting. Collecting at multiple times throughout the maturation period can help prevent inadvertent selection against either early or late maturing genotypes.

Storage

Seed must be collected and stored in such a way as to ensure its viability. Overheating can kill seeds, and excessive heat and temperature fluctuations should be avoided. High moisture content during storage can also cause seed damage and loss of viability due to molds. A good rule of thumb is the 100 rule of thumb, where the sum of temperature (degrees F) and relative humidity (%) does not exceed 100.

Documentation

Field collection forms and GIS are used to document collection area location, along with other important details such as collection dates and the number, distribution and health of parent plants. In some states, third party certification services are available for tracking seed source identity of wildland collections, as well as for ensuring genetic integrity during the field seed production cycle.

Additional Resources and References

National Seed Lab

Forest Service RNGR Team: Reforestation, Nurseries, and Genetics

Great Basin Native Plant Selection and Increase Project

Aspen Seed Collection, Colorado State Forest Service , Nursery Information Series (PDF, 756 KB)

Revegetation Equipment Catalog - The Catalog provides descriptions, applications, pictures, and sources for equipment used on rangeland.

Low-tech Devices for Collecting, Processing, and Planting Seeds

https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/Native_Plant_Materials/developing/collecting.shtml

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Native plants are valued for their economic, ecological, genetic, and aesthetic benefits in addition to their intrinsic value as living species. The use of native plant material (seeds, cuttings, plants) in vegetation projects plays an important role in the maintenance and restoration of native plant gene pools, communities, and ecosystems, and can help reverse the trend of species loss in North America.

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shelters distance away from a fire

Christian 1 build shelter out of non flammable meterials if possible. make it sturdy

Lucas 2 build a fire far away from the shelter

christian 3 observe how far the flame of the fire will travel.

lucas 4 rebuild a new fire near the shelter where it is not too close and not too far

both 5 test to make sure the shelter does not burn

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If you want to know how to make mud drinkable this is how you do it

you get 2 jars/containers that you have available if you happen to have nay cloth like material ear you you will want to fill one container up with the muddy water then you put another empty container next to it you put a cloth piece in the jar with the muddy water in it then you will put the other side in the empty container you will wait a while all the water will get sucked into the cloth and it will transfer to the other container then after while you will have water to drink (best to do it at night so in the morning you have the clean water to drink)

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But where do you find it and what do you do if all the clean drinking water around you has become, cloudy, muddy, or turbid?

Unless you've been thrust into a survival situation before, you probably don't know just how crucial clean drinking water can be, and how rare it is to have it at your disposal after a disaster.

Even if you keep plenty of bottled water in your emergency stash, when a natural disaster strikes you could be on the move, which means you won't be able to tote around more than you can carry.

Combine this with the fact that during natural disasters, water treatment can shut down and clean water often becomes contaminated. This means even if you are in the comfort of your home, simply turning on the tap doesn't guarantee the water coming out of it is safe for drinking.

Plus, natural disasters all affect water differently. An earthquake can break water supply lines contaminating a whole city's safe water source. Floods can destroy household plumbing and water storage tanks. Even rivers and streams-known for being clean due to their moving nature-often become contaminated or at the very least dirty and turbid.

All of this is to say... you can last weeks without food, but without water? You're at risk of dying in days.

Which is why you need to know how to clean water, no matter where you are and what type of emergency situation you find yourself in.

Unfortunately, using any standard water purifier or filter doesn't work with turbid water. In fact, you'll simply clog up your filter and ruin it if you don't start with practically clear water before trying to run it through your filter.

So whether you're dealing with dirty or muddy water contaminants , you need a method to clear the water before drinking it or passing it through your filter.
Lucky for you, I've got four incredibly simple methods for how to clean water ridden with unwanted contaminants. Each one uses different supplies so you can figure out which one is easiest for you given the materials you have and the situation you're facing.
Let's get started.

Method #1: Cloth + Two Jars

I've said it before and I'll say it again:I love survival hacks that don't require obscure equipment. The best thing about this water purification method is it uses only three items, and these are things you can find almost anywhere: in your pantry, in the dumpster, at a gas station, etc...

All you need are two jars and a piece of cloth (such as a strip of tee-shirt) and you'll be well on your way to purifying turbid water in no time.

Step #1: Put dirty water in one jar

While your jars don't necessarily need to be transparent, it can only help. The goal here is to filter the water from one glass to another while using the cloth to absorb the dirt and mud, so a clear glass helps you see how much of the mud your cloth absorbed.

To start, place the muddy/turbid water in one jar, and set the empty jar next to it.

Step #2: Run the cloth from the muddy jar to the empty jar

Don't get hung up on "cloth". You can use something as simple as a strip of a tee-shirt for this method. However, do know the cloth should be narrow and long enough to run from one jar into the other.

Take your piece of cloth and insert one end into the jar with the muddy water. Then, take the other end and put it into the empty glass.

Step #3: Wait for the water to move from one jar to another

After you insert the cloth, the water will begin to move from the muddy jar to the empty jar. The cloth will absorb the mud and dirt and filter the clean water into your empty glass. It should only take a short while (depending on your jar size) before you have clear, muck-free water!

Step #4: Purify and Enjoy!

Even though the seemingly safe water looks clear and has gone through one stage of filtration, boil or filter the water to kill and remove any remaining germs and parasites.

Method #2: Bottle, Rocks, Sand, Cloth, & Charcoal

This method requires a few more inputs than the first, but they're simple to get your hands on plus it purifies the water so you get more bang for your buck .

Soldiers use this method to purify water in emergencies because almost anywhere you are, you can get your hands on a bottle, rocks, sand, cloth, and charcoal.

And like I mentioned, the great thing about this method is it removes harmful elements such as copper and chlorine without having to boil it or use a special water purifier.

Step #1: Cut the bottom of the bottle and make four to five holes in the bottle cap.

The bottle acts as your main filter. You'll be stuffing it with other materials, so whether you use scissors or the knife from your bug out bag, it's important to make sure you cut the bottom of the bottle off so you can put the sand, cloth, and charcoal inside.

After cutting off the bottom of the bottle, you'll want to punch four or five holes in the bottle cap. Use a sharp edge, jagged rock, or even a pen to punch smalls holes. The key is to create an opening large enough to let the water drain through without letting dirt or particles through. So be sure to keep your holes on the smaller side.

Step #2: Place cloth inside to act as a filter

Once your bottle is prepped, it's time to place cloth inside to act as a particle filter.

Since you're using additional material to filter the water, you can also use tissues or napkins in this step. But make sure you use enough to thoroughly pad the bottom of the bottle near the bottle cap.

The point is for the cloth/tissue to servie as the final particle filter for the water, so it needs to be strong enough to not break or allow dirt particles through once the water hits it.

Step #3: Add a small amount of clean sand/gravel into the bottle.

Next, you'll want to add a small amount of sand/gravel to the bottle. When you put the sand and gravel mixture into the bottle, make sure it stays below the tissue/cloth filter. You don't want it to overflow, or get underneath the filter and leak into your clean water.

Step #4: Add small pieces of charcoal to help with filtration

Charcoal is great for helping to purify water. In fact, many water filters are packed with charcoal, since active charcoal absorbs turbid substances from gases and liquids (like water).

For this filter, you'll need smaller pieces of carbon. If you have large pieces, break them against concrete to make them smaller and wash it to remove black residue, so it doesn't leak into your water. Then, place the smaller pieces of charcoal on top of the sand/gravel mixture.

You're aiming for about 150-200 grams, so don't be worried if the charcoal rises above your tissue filter.

Step #5: Add more sand/gravel and tissue/cloth on top of the charcoal

Once you've got your charcoal in the bottle, you'll want to add a bit more sand/gravel to the mix. Then, add more tissue/cloth to top off your filter. These two layers will act as a pre-filter for the water you pass through the bottle.

The goal is to catch dirt/mud right off the bat, then treat it with charcoal, then catch any remaining substances in the sand/gravel and tissues layers at the bottom of your bottle.

Step #6: Place a clean container under the water filter and let it rest in the sun

Whether you're filling a water bottle, hydration sack, or just a plain old jar, you need something to catch the clean water. You can place this directly under your bottle filter, like this:

Then, pour turbid water into the top of your filter. The water will pass through the various layers and trickle out the holes you punched in the bottle cap.

You're almost in the clear at this point. To make sure it's safe, run it through your water filter, boil it, or leave it in sunlight for 2-3 hours. The UV rays will act as yet another filtration device.

After that, it's ready to drink!

Method #3: P&G Water Packets

P&G Water Purification Packets Separate Dirt and Purify Water

This method takes minimal supplies and a short amount of time, making it one of the easiest ways to treat and disinfect water... if you've got the right equipment in your bug out bag or emergency kit. All you need is a container to hold water and a P&G water packet .

Step #1: Fill a large container with water

The great thing about this water purification method is a single P&G water packet treats 2.5 gallons of water. This makes this method excellent for those who need to treat a large amount of contaminated water in a short amount of time.

As you may have guessed, the first step here is to fill a large container with water. If you're using just one packet, shoot for 2.5 gallons or less. Many buckets will mark how many liters or gallons they hold, but if you find yourself without one, you can think of this in terms of a small fish tank or a couple of milk jugs.

Step #2: Place the P&G Packet in the container and stir for 5 minutes

Once you've got your container filled, empty one P&G packet into the container for every 2.5 gallons of water. Then, use a clean device (such as a spoon, knife, or even a rinsed stick), to stir the water for five minutes.

Step #3: Let water sit for 25 minutes before enjoying!

The During this time period, the floc will settle to the bottom of the water container. P&G water packet takes 25 minutes to fully purify the water, so you'll need to let it rest for this duration of time.

Once the 25 minutes are up, carefully transfer the water to a clean container (without floc) by pouring it into a separate container. If you can use a cloth to strain the water and ensure none of the floc gets into the clean container that's best, but so long as you pour carefully the floc that settled at the bottom will stay put.

Method #4: DayOne Waterbag + P&G Purification Packets

A lot of survival tricks use gear that goes hand in hand. This is one of those tricks. This method uses the same P&G water packets from the purification method above, but with a different container for your water: the DayOne waterbag .

This kit comes with an integrated filtration system and 60 P&G water packets to treat even the most turbid water without ruining filters. If you're looking for the absolute best purification system for any emergency, this is the combination for you.

Step #1: Collect water in pack

The great thing about using the DayOne Waterbag is you can collect water directly in the pack itself. No containers, bottles, or jars needed. Before you start filling the bag, make sure the clamp on the tube, which serves as the filtration device, is closed. It should look something like this:

Scoop water into directly into the bag and fill it to the 10L (or 2.5 gallon) mark.

Step #2: Pour one P&G packet into the bag and mix for 5 minutes

Once you've filled your bag to the 10L mark, it's time to add the The P&G packet. Again, I can't emphasize how great this method is for including everything you need. DayOne Waterbag even comes with a shoulder strap cutting tool that you can use to slice open the P&G water packet - way better than using your teeth, right?

Once you've got the packet open, go ahead and add it to the bag. Just like the previous method, you'll want to mix the water and the packet for five minutes. To do this with the bag, close it by folding down the top closure three times, releasing excess air, and buckling the clasp. Then, twist the bag back and forth to mix the contents.

You can hang the bag on a tree branch so you can mix it with both hands, or you can hold it with one hand while twisting it with the other if you're not near a tree, or can't find a sturdy branch.

As you're mixing, the water will become colored. Don't be alarmed - this means the packet is working!

Step #3: Let water sit for 25 minutes

This method also requires you to let the water sit for 25 minutes before it's ready to drink. If you don't have a place to hang the bag, you can wear it as a backpack during the rest period.

However, you'll want to make sure you don't move around too much. The whole point here is to give the dirt particles time to settle at the bottom of the pack.

Toward the end of the 25 minutes, you'll notice the water becomes clear above the outlet of the bag. The dirt will settle below it. If the dirt gets caught on the walls of the bag, feel free to tap it to help it settle at the bottom.

Step #4: Drain water into clean container

Now for the fun part! After waiting those 25 minutes, your water is finally ready to drink. It's time to release the shut-off clamp and dispense the water into a clean container or water bottle.

You'll notice that the water is clean only above the outlet port. This means you should not dispense the water below that port. The P&G packet helps the floc settle at the bottom, leaving the clean water above that point. Dirt has settled below it, so only drain the bag up until that point.

It's also worth noting that if after this process the water remains colored, yellow, or cloudy, you shouldn't drink it. Instead, mix it again and wait another 25 minutes. If the water is still colored or dirty after a second attempt, discard it.

You'll also want to drink the water within 24 hours of treating it. Water not drunk within that time may run the risk of being too dirty for human consumption, but can be used for cooking, washing, or even watering your animals.

And last, but certainly not least, clean the bag after each use! You can use the remaining water below to port to gather any sediment in the bag and discard it, preferably in a latrine or below ground. Then, wipe the bag with a cloth to get rid of any remaining sediment. One of the greatest things about this method is your container can be used over and over again - you just have to make sure it's fit to do so.

Conclusion

Water is crucial to survival in emergencies, which is why I outlined these four simple ways to purify dirty or muddy water no matter the situation you find yourself in . The goal with these methods is to find an easy purifying solution that works for you and the materials you have on hand.

Take some time and practice these methods. Whichever solution works best for you, make sure you keep the materials for it in your emergency supplies so you're ready to go .

If you have any questions on the methods I listed above, or have a favorite way to purify water, I'd love to hear about it in the comments .

Please enable JavaScript to view the comments powered by Disqus.

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Knowing how to clean water can be a life saving skill during an unexpected natural disaster. Continue to learn some of the most efficient methods.

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 Keegan  Mcelliott how to insulate a shelter

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 Keegan  Mcelliott how to insulate a shelter

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"Add layering. begin gathering smaller sticks and laying them in the spaces between the framework. use bark, leaves, pine needles, or any other debris to create insulation. Completely cover the roof and sides with this material. The thicker the insulation is, the more effective your shelter will be. Conifer boughs, bark, and plant material work well for the layering material."

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The lean-to is a versatile shelter that can be used in any season and in a variety of locations with great success. A lean-to derives its name from its appearance-a collection of materials leaned against a framework. Lean-tos can be built in various sizes and configurations, including closed or open, depending on the need. A properly constructed lean-to is a simple shelter to use in a wilderness environment. Try to locate a site that is well protected by natural features such as trees, rocks, or land formations. Enlist as much help from nature as it has to offer. Choose a flat area for the floor. Plan the opening of your shelter away from the prevailing wind if possible. Place a windbreak or fire reflector made of dirt, rocks, or logs parallel to and 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) from the shelter entrance for added protection and heat retention.

A closed lean-to is an efficient and easy shelter to construct (see figure 2.1) using the following steps.

1. Create the shelter framework. Locate a strong stick to use as the main supporting member for the roof structure. It should be a little longer than your height or that of the tallest occupant. One end of the roof support will rest on the ground, forming the rear of the shelter. The other end will become the entrance and should be elevated 2 to 3 feet above ground level. The elevated end can be secured to a tree, rock wall, or dirt brim. If natural features are not available, make a tripod using the elevated end of the long support and two sticks of adequate length to form the entrance. Keep the top of this opening as low as possible while still affording access into the shelter. A low entrance retains more body heat within the shelter and allows less to escape to the outside air.

2. Construct the roof and sides. Start by laying several strong sticks perpendicular to the main roof support and sloping down to touch the ground. Spread them out evenly over the entire width of the main support. If the shelter is for a single person, it need not be much wider than 3 feet; allow about another 3 feet for each additional occupant. If sufficient material is available, try to place the roof poles no more than 6 inches (15 cm) apart.

3. Add layering. When the framework is complete, begin gathering smaller sticks and laying them in the spaces between the framework. As the process continues, use bark, leaves, pine needles, or any other natural forest debris to create insulation. Completely cover the roof and sides with this material. The thicker the insulation is, the more effective your shelter will be. Conifer boughs, bark, and plant material work well for the layering material. If a sheet of plastic, rain poncho, or tarp is available, place it on top of the shelter and hold it in place with sticks to provide added protection from the elements.

4. Finish the entrance. After placing insulation on the ground, cover the bulk of the entrance, leaving only a small opening into the shelter.

An open lean-to can be constructed by placing the main roof support between two uprights (see figure 2.2). Space the uprights so that the area between them is large enough to accommodate the intended number of people lying sided by side. The main support forms the top of the entrance into the shelter. Keep the top of this opening as low as possible, just high enough to afford access into the shelter. To make the roof, place strong sticks, long enough to accommodate the height of the tallest occupant, perpendicular to the main roof support and sloping downward to the ground. Spread them evenly over the entire width of the main support. To close the sides of the shelter, lean smaller sticks from the ground up to the framework at a steep angle. Add layering and insulation as described in step 4 of the instructions on page 19 for the closed lean-to. Sleep with your feet at the closed end of the shelter.

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The lean-to is a versatile shelter that can be used in any season and in a variety of locations with great success. A lean-to derives its name from its appearance-a collection of materials leaned against a framework. Lean-tos can be built in various sizes and configurations, including closed or open, depending on the need.

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1. Find tracks/mark where they are

2. Figure out which animal it came from

3. Tell the snares group so they know what size snares to make

4. build weapons

(1- Learn how

2-gather materials

3-build

4-test)

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Rain barrels are a good way to collect rainwater. To make one you have to create a slanted roof and place the barrel below most rain barrels can hold up to 50 gallons

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At some point in our lives, we have all tilted our head back towards a stormy sky hoping to catch a falling raindrop in our mouth. But did you know that some people genuinely rely on rainwater as a water source?

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Layers of bark and pine needles are great uses to insulate a shelter.

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Off Grid Survival - Wilderness & Urban Survival Skills

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In a survival situation, knowing how to properly insulate yourself and your cold weather shelter can mean the difference between life and death.

Similar to how double-pane glass insulates your home, by trapping air between its layers, properly insulating yourself from the elements means knowing how to trap air between your body and what's outside.

Whether you're in an urban environment or a wilderness setting there are always a number of materials that you can use to stay warm.

Insulation in a Wilderness Survival Situation:

Fibrous plants, grasses, layers of bark, pine needles, leaves, wood, and even snow are all types of materials that you can use to insulate yourself and your shelter.

To insulate your shelter, use the materials to build a thick layer over and inside your shelter. Layering the materials will help trap air, and more efficiently keep the heat inside your shelter. Make sure you also use a thick layer of insulating materials inside your makeshift mattress. Doing so will insulate yourself from the cold ground.
Don't forget to insulate yourself.
One of the most effective ways of staying warm is to insulate yourself from the elements. To do this you need to create layers of material that will trap air between your body and the elements.

The best way to insulate your body is to shove fibrous materials, grass, cattail, or dried leaves between the layers of your clothing. If possible, try to put the insulating materials between a couple different layers of clothing.

Urban Insulation:

During a winter storm, power outages can quickly turn into a life-threatening emergency. When the temperatures start to plummet, you need to take action. The first thing you should do is build a warm room. It's a lot easier to heat a small walk-in closet or pantry than it is to heat an entire home. So the first thing you want to do is find a small room or closet, and then start insulating.

Urban environments are filled with materials that can be used to keep your body warm, and protected from the outside elements. Cardboard, foam, plastic, and bedding materials are just a few of the items that you should be able to easily find. During an emergency, a small room or closet can easily be turned into an insulted fortress.

Couch cushions, blankets, towels, and mattresses can all be used to add extra insulation to your warm room. Line the walls with these insulating materials to trap heat inside the room.

Layer your clothing, and remember that in an emergency you can line your clothing with crumbled up newspapers, paper towels, or any other insulating materials that you can find.

Depending how many people are in the room, body heat alone can be enough to keep the room at a tolerable temperature.

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Staying warm in an emergency - Insulation

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In a survival situation knowing how to properly insulate yourself and your cold weather shelter can mean the difference between life and death.

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Everyone needs to know where the water is.

Establish where the water will be stored(Z+M)

see what shelters are closest to the water storage areas.(M)

Inform everyone where their nearest water storage area is.(Z)

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STEP 1- Tell people to keep items inside their base instead of out in the open. (E)

STEP 2- Set up boundaries to avoid stealing. (S)

STEP 3- If u don't need any supplies, share it and people will come trade it for items they need. (E+S)

STEP 4- find enough resources for everyone to share. (E+S)

STEP- 5- help others find out what they can use stuff for.(E+S)

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A shelter provides safety and protection from different types of weather conditions, such as rain, wind, heat, cold and dangerous animals.

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A shelter is a covered place, which provides protection to humans, animals and birds from their surroundings. Animals make shelters by burrowing into the ground, building lodges from tree branches and mud. Birds build their nest on trees. Humans build houses out of wood, mud, bamboo and stone according to the environmental conditions and the availability of the raw materials.

Why Do We Need a Shelter?

A shelter provides safety and protection from different types of weather conditions, such as rain, wind, heat, cold and dangerous animals.

It provides a place to rest and carry out day-to-day activities.

It provides a private place and facilities for the storage of belongings.

Types of Shelter

Broadly, there are two types of shelter-

Living Beings and Their Shelter

Animals that live on land and forests - cow, dog, donkey, horse, lion, elephant, deer, rhinoceros, peacock.

Animals that live in burrows - rat, ant, rabbits, snake, earthworms and scorpion

Animals that live both on land and water - frogs, snakes, crocodiles, etc.

Birds generally make their shelter in the form of nests with a variety of materials, such as grass, soft twigs, roots, wool, wire, wood, leaves, and hair. However, the place of building up the nests varies with the type of bird.

The shelter of human beings is known as ' house' . It can be of two types, depending on the type of material used in building them.

Important Factors Behind the Choice of Shelter

Type of Houses in Specific Area

Solved Questions:

Ans: Igloos are made by Eskimos with ice blocks. It is made in an oval shape and the entry door is kept small.

Nests are not always made by females. Among 'weaver birds', it is the duty of males to make nests for females so that they can lay eggs.

There is a bird named 'Koel' which never makes its own nest. It lays its eggs in the crow's nest and the crow hatches them considering its own.

In hilly areas, such as in Himachal Pradesh, the roof of the house is made slanting so that snow and rain can easily fall down. However, in Delhi and Mumbai, the houses have flat roofs.

Ans: In these types of areas, the houses are built with sloping roofs so that the snow and rain can fall off easily. The raw material used for making these houses could be bricks, stone and woods.

In this article, we have studied the importance of shelter and its types. We have learnt about the types of shelter made by different living organisms. We discussed the important factors which should be kept in mind while building a house in a particular area. We also studied different types of houses found in specific locations.

Which type of houses will you find in a polar region?

How is a houseboat different from other houses?

Why do people make tent houses?

Learning By Doing

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Our Shelter - Important Factors, Types, Facts, and FAQs

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Learn about Our Shelter Topic of EVS in details explained by subject experts on vedantu.com. Register free for an online tutoring session to clear your doubts.

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Find something to collect it with: can, container, bag, ect.

Set up the water collecter

Find a water source: Rain, river, stream, condensation, ect.

Fill it up with that water

Make a lid with rocks to keep it contained

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we need to find materials to insulate the shelter.

Make sure the structure is sturdy.

Put insulation on the shelter

Test it

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This story was originally featured on Outdoor Life.
In a winter wilderness emergency, there's no question that finding or building shelter is going to be your top priority (unless someone in your party requires urgent first aid). In the bone-aching cold, hypothermia can begin to take hold within minutes, and in severe weather conditions, the cold can be fatal within a few hours if there isn't some type of shelter defense from the elements. So when you need to protect yourself from the elements, find yourself wet or poorly dressed in the winter wilds, or you're just stuck somewhere unexpectedly for the night, you need to be able to build a shelter using accessible materials and the landscape. Thankfully, there are a number of survival shelter designs you can build with a few tools (or none) on the frozen winter landscape. Here's a quick look at just a few.

An insulated tree well

In woodlands with deep snow, finding shelter can be as easy as locating a naturally occurring tree well. These are gaps or swaths of ground with a lower density of snow under evergreen trees. When the snow collects on the tree boughs (rather than under the tree), it creates a natural pit, which can be easily adapted into a shelter. If possible, dig down to the bare ground and push the snow to create a small wall around the well to block wind. Since a fire would melt the snow covered boughs overhead, your best bet for warmth is packing the well with insulating materials. If you can manage to find a few rocks in the snow, use a fire to warm them and place them in your bedding for heat.

A snow trench

If the snow is solid enough to cut into slabs, you can use a saw to cut blocks out to form a trench and position the blocks like a ceiling to cover it. In the event the snow won't hold together to build solid building blocks or you are caught without tools, you can still dig out a trench and cover it with a flat roof of poles, tree boughs, and an insulating layer of snow. Either way, the snow trench works well in flat areas and is ideal for a quick one- or two-person snow shelter.

A snow cave

A snow cave may be the only shelter option in areas with deep snow. This is typically the most dangerous shelter to create, as the inhabitants could suffer from low oxygen or even be buried alive if the ceiling collapses. That's why snow selection is so critical. Select a deep, solid snow bank or drift. Dig into the side of it and form a tunnel into a low spot. This is the "cold well," which is a place where the coldest air can fall and collect. Then dig up and over creating a shelf or platform to sleep on. This should be the highest part of the shelter. Dig a small hole about 6 inches in diameter somewhere in the roof for ventilation, especially if you plan on blocking the entrance with a doorway like a backpack or big chunk of snow.

An igloo

The most impressive winter shelter is the igloo. This spiraling dome of artfully carved blocks is an engineering masterpiece. When properly built with the right quality of snow (yes, there are different types and qualities of snow), temperatures inside can climb above freezing from mere body heat, even when the world outside is far below freezing. Start with a triangle-shaped block, then move to trapezoidal blocks, all with tapered edges. The final block is the "keystone" piece in the center of the ceiling. An amateur can make a tolerable igloo if they are good with their hands and have a sense of geometry, but they'll never make an igloo like one made by someone who practices these skills regularly. Like other snow shelters, the igloo works best if it includes a cold well, a door, ventilation holes, and a sleeping platform.

A quinzhee

The quinzhee is a dome-shaped snow shelter, similar in shape to an igloo, but much easier to construct. Snow must be just right to build an igloo, while you can pack together most types of snow for a quinzhee. To build one, start by piling up some moveable gear, like backpacks, under a tarp. Then pile snow over the tarp and gear. Pack the snow down until it's about 2 feet thick all the way around. Next, insert three- or four-dozen 12-inch-long sticks around the dome. Burrow into the side of the quinzhee and retrieve the tarp and gear. Excavate snow inside the mound until you reach the base of every stick. This will ensure the dome has a uniform thickness. Last, make a fist sized ventilation hole in the roof of the quinzhee.

Add a bough bed

While this is not a shelter by itself, a thick bough bed makes an outstanding addition to any type of shelter large enough to accommodate it. To make a bough bed, you can use leaves, grass, evergreen boughs, or other plant material for insulation. Cedar and pine boughs are common enough in many places, but fir boughs make the softest bed. Spruce can be the least-comfortable evergreen bough, since the needles are so sharp. Start building by creating a bed frame. Roll up two logs longer than you are tall, side-by-side, about 3 feet apart. Fill the void between the logs by laying down the boughs, several at a time. Dead, dry leaves or dead grasses can be a great addition if you have them. In snowy conditions, you'll just have to work with boughs. Make the mattress so thick that you are still at least 6 inches from the frozen ground or snow surface when lying down. Keep adding armloads of boughs or other vegetation if the mattress compresses too much or isn't warm enough.

A lean-to

One of the simplest and most frequently constructed primitive shelters is the lean-to. You can set one up in less than an hour with a variety of materials and the basic, one-sided design will give you a haven from some of the wind and rain the wilderness might throw at you. Securely support a long, stout pole between two trees. Cover one side with poles, brush, or branches. Then heap leaves, grasses, palm fronds, or any other vegetation that is available on top. The flaws of this shelter are the fact that it doesn't hold in any heat, and if the wind or rain changes direction, you'll no longer be sheltered. Think of it as a house with only one wall and half of a roof. It offers little in the way of insulation; and merely deflects wind and reflects the heat of the nearby fire. When the fire goes out, the warmth goes too. But the advantage to this type of shelter is you can build it fast.

A leaf hut

The leaf hut is a two-sided, wedge-shaped lean-to, with much better weatherproofing and insulating qualities. To build one, select a long, sturdy pole 9 to 12 feet long. Prop it up in the fork of a tree or set it on a rock, stump or two forked prop sticks. Then cover the sides of the pole with tree branches to act as ribs. Place the branches close together at an angle along both sides of the ridge pole so your hut covering won't fall through. Next, pile vegetation over the framework. You can use anything that traps air like leaves, grass, ferns, moss, pine needles, brush and tree boughs, and the material can be wet. About 2 to 3 feet of vegetation covering all sides of the shelter is enough to keep you dry inside. Finally, fill the inside of the hut with a thick pile of vegetation for your bedding.

Try a wickiup

The wickiup is a bit like a small tipi made from poles, brush, and vegetation. This shelter style is used around the globe, but has been most frequently documented in the American Southwest. Thick brush, grass, and leaf coverings along with a steep roof can make this shelter suitable for climates with occasional rain. A broader, stockier structure covered with light brush can give you a shady, ventilated shelter for hot, dry climates. Collect several dozen poles, some with forks at the top. Lock a few of these forks together to build a freestanding tripod. Then prop the other poles around the peak to create a cone-shaped tipi frame. Finish with the vegetation layer. If the wickiup is large enough, and the vegetation covering the roof is wet or green material, it may be safe enough to build a tiny fire inside this type of shelter.

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Winter survival shelters you should know how to build

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When you find yourself wet or poorly dressed in the winter wilds, you need to be able to build a shelter using accessible materials and the landscape.

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Action plan for FLOOR

Gather Materials for shelter J+N

Make a sturdy shelter J+N

Clear ground of sharp things Julian

Gather clumps of grass J+N

Place clumps of grass onto ground Neil

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1. First to get water we will look for when its going to rain

2. Next,we will look for a tree with green leaves to collect the moisture

3. Then, we will find something to collect rain water(like a plastic bag).

4. After, we will attach our plastic bag to the tree

5. Finally, we wait for the rain to collect.

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"The best way is to use a blanket or some kind of sheet, pile them all up into the middle and drop them on your shelter starting at the bottom. They should settle on their own and act as roof tiles, and providing the layer is thick enough it will be completely water and wind proof'

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Good question as choosing the right material could mean the difference between a good night sleep and waking up every 20 minutes to sort out the small puddle forming under your bed.

The answer depends mostly on where you are in the world as certain climates or areas only have one option available, such as spruce bows in Siberia or reeds in desert areas, but if your in a more temperate climate you've normally got several options.

Option 1 - Grass
This is normally the worst option as it doesn't generally last for very long, shrinking and splitting when it dried, and you also need a huge quantity of it to make your shelter completely water proof, so stay away from this unless your making a tent in the middle of an endless grassy plain.

Option 2 - Reed's
Anything too thick should be avoided, such as cat-tails as you probably wont find enough of them and gathering also means getting wet. The thinner straw coloured reeds have often been used in the past to thatch round and long houses and do a good job of keeping off the rain. The only down side is that it takes a very long time to tie all the bundles together and unless your building a long term shelter its not worth the effort.

Option 3 - Leaves
These make one of the best options for smaller shelters and if your building at the right time of the year in woodland the ground should be covered in as many as you can be bothered to pickup. The best way is to use a blanket or some kind of sheet, pile them all up into the middle and drop them on your shelter starting at the bottom. They should settle on their own and act as countless tiny roof tiles, and providing the layer is thick enough it will be completely water and wind proof.

Option 4 - Sticks and branch's
The only way to make a water proof shelter out of branch's alone is to find hundreds of straight ones and lay them in a thick layer at a steep enough angle as to make sure the rain runs down them before it drips off. This options only really works with nothing else if your in an area where there's an abundance of straight sticks as it isn't normally worth the time to cut them over using another material.

Options 5 - spruce
Should you be in an area with an abundance of spruce branch's your in luck when it comes to shelter building. The strong needles make up a good amount of volume to block wind and rain and work as an excellent base to add other materials on top. Should you be stuck somewhere that's very cold, an under layer of spruce branch's with a layer of snow on top makes for a snug place to sleep, just make sure your careful with how big your fire gets as you'll get dripped on during the night.

Option 6 - Moss
Certain types of moss such as sphagnum grows in huge clumps and often carpets the floor of the woodland its in. It can be easily cut or ripped into mat and layered on the outside of the shelter like a piece of lawn turf. It isn't water proof though and acts as a giant sponge, but does an excellent job of blocking the wind and so makes a good choice to block any areas below your sleeping level that don't need to be water proof.

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What's the best material to use for waterproofing a survival shelter?

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Good question as choosing the right material could mean the difference between a good night sleep and waking up every 20 minutes to sort out the small puddle forming under your bed. T...

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How to make a snare to catch bunnies.

Step 1 find a rabbit trail . Step 2 build a frame for the snare with two posts and a crossbar. Step 3 Sucre it with some rope ore wire so when the rabbit is jumping around it wont go any ware . step 4 tie a noose and put the other end through a loop then make it the size of a fist then make a kink . step 5 have it hung 4 inches from the ground . Step 6 what for a snare to catch something finally set up multiple snares

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clear area for farm m+a

pull weeds mitchell

hoe the soil austin

find affecient way to water ground

collect seeds m+a

Build a way to keep out animals

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1.find a spot to set up a snare trap

2.get rope

3.set up trap

4.test the trap

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A good way to collect water is in the morning you can collect the water off the leaves aka called morning dew

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. You can easily go a day without food, and usually don't need shelter right away, unless you're in freezing conditions. Not having any water for 24 hours, however, while survivable, depletes both your physical and mental strength, making it more difficult to perform the tasks necessary to making it out the other side. And after just three days without hydration, your body will shut down, and it'll be lights out for you.

With about two liters per day your body will be able circulate blood, process food, regulate body temperature (which prevents hypo- and hyperthermia), think clearly, and successfully carry out a host of other internal processes.

You can see how crucial water is to your survival. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet. In today's article, we'll walk you through several methods for finding water that will work for temperate climates and a variety of others, as well as methods that are particularly suited for tropical, freezing, and desert regions.

A Note Before Starting: Always Filter

Any survival expert will tell you that no matter where you find water in the wild - be it from streams, lakes, condensation on plants, etc. - it should always be filtered or purified before drinking. Now, in many cases this isn't possible, as you may not have the right supplies on you. Just know that any water you ingest without purifying could carry harmful bacteria, and is a risk on your part. If your choice is life or death, that's a risk you're most definitely going to take. Some water collection methods are safer for straight drinking than others; we'll outline those below.

General Methods and Tips for Finding Water in the Wild

The following tips work especially well in temperate and tropical areas, but many also apply to other climates too.

Start With the Obvious: Streams, Rivers, Lakes

These are your most obvious sources of water in the wild. Clear, flowing water is your best option, as the movement doesn't allow bacteria to fester. This means that small streams should be what you look for first. Rivers are acceptable, but larger ones often have a lot of pollution from upstream. Lakes and ponds are okay, but they're stagnant, meaning there's an increased chance for bacteria.

Now then, how do you go about finding these bodies of water? First, use your senses. If you stand perfectly still and listen intently, you may be able to hear running water, even if it's a great distance away.

Next you'll use your eyes to try and find animal tracks, which could lead to water. Insect swarms, while annoying, are another sign of water close by. And in the mornings and evenings especially, following the flight path of birds may lead you to your much-needed H2O. Watching animal behavior is especially important in the desert. Animal tracks will be easier to spot in the sand, and they'll almost always eventually lead to water. Birds will also especially flock towards water in dry areas.

Also just scout the environment you're in. Water runs downhill, so follow valleys, ditches, gullies, etc. Find your way to low ground, and you'll often run into water.

Collect Rainwater

Collecting and drinking rainwater is one of the safest ways to get hydrated without the risk of bacterial infection. This is especially true in wild, rural areas (in urban centers, the rain first travels through pollution, emissions, etc.).

There are two primary methods of collecting rainwater. The first is to use any and all containers you might have on you. The second is to tie the corners of a poncho or tarp around trees a few feet off the ground, place a small rock in the center to create a depression, and let the water collect.

You can combine these methods and make your containers more effective by tying the poncho or tarp to funnel into your bottle or pot or whatever you have (as long as it doesn't overflow and waste water!).

Collect Heavy Morning Dew

Looking for a way to collect up to a liter of water per hour? Tie some absorbent clothes/cloths or tufts of fine grass around your ankles, and take a pre-sunrise walk through tall grass, meadows, etc. Wring out the water when the cloths are saturated, and repeat. Just be sure you aren't collecting dew from any poisonous plants.

Fruits/Vegetation

Fruits, vegetables, cacti, fleshy/pulpy plants, even roots contain a lot of water. With any of these, you can simply collect the plants, place them into some kind of container, and smash them into a pulp with a rock to collect their liquid. It won't be much, but in desperate situations, every little bit helps.

This method is especially helpful in tropical environments where fruits and vegetation are abundant. Coconuts can be an excellent source of hydration. Unripe, green coconuts are actually better, though, as the milk of ripe coconuts acts as a laxative, which will just further dehydrate you.

Collect Plant Transpiration

Another easy option for water collection is taking advantage of plant transpiration. This is the process in which moisture is carried from a plant's roots, to the underside of its leaves. From there, it vaporizes into the atmosphere; but, you're going to catch the water before it does that.

First thing in the morning, tie a bag (or something you can make into a bag; the larger the better) around a leafy green tree branch or shrub. Place a rock in the bag to weigh it down a little bit so the water has a place to collect. Over the course of the day, the plant transpires, and produces moisture. Rather than vaporizing into the atmosphere, though, it collects at the bottom of your bag. Never do this with a poisonous plant.

Tree Crotches/Rock Crevices

Like with fruits/vegetation, this is another source that won't provide all that much water, but again, it's definitely something when the straits are dire - particularly when you're stranded in a desert. The crotches of tree limbs, or the crevices of rocks can be small collecting places for water. In an arid area, bird droppings around a rock crevice may indicate the presence of water inside, even if it can't be seen. To remove water from crotches and cracks, stick a piece of clothing or cloth in, let it soak up any moisture, and wring it out. Repeat if you can, and return after a rain for a fresh supply.

Dig an Underground Still

The benefit of creating a still is that it provides a reliable, fairly substantial source of water (compared to other methods), and you know roughly how much you'll be getting, which helps you plan and ration better.

There are aboveground and underground varieties of sills; the underground is your best bet as it collects more water, but the aboveground variety can be useful if you're extremely energy-depleted and can't dig a large hole. Click here to see instructions for doing that (page 58).

Directions for your underground still:
Supplies

Container (the largest you have)

Clear plastic sheeting

Digging tool

Rocks

Optional: something to act as a drinking tube/straw (CamelBak straw, bamboo/other plant)

Instructions

Find an area that gets sunlight most of the day.

Dig a bowl-like pit 3' wide by 2' deep. Dig an additional small hole within that for the container.

Optional: Attach the drinking tube to the bottom of the container. If you don't have one, skip this step.

Place the container in the pit, and run the tubing up out of the hole.

Cover the hole with plastic, and use rocks and soil to keep it in place.

Put a small rock in the center of your sheet, so that it hangs and forms an inverted cone over the container.

If you have a tube, drink straight from it. Otherwise, collect the container from the bottom, and replace it when you've stored the water elsewhere.

There's almost always moisture in the ground at that depth. That will react with the sun's heat to produce condensation, which will collect on the plastic. The inverted cone forces that condensation down into your container. You can expect to gather .5-1 liter per day, so you'd need more than one (or another source) to account for an entire day's supply.

Cold/Snowy-Specific Tips

Melt Snow and Ice

Especially in the mountains, snow and ice are abundant well into the summer months, and sometimes all year round. If you're by or on the ocean in a polar region, look to icebergs for a source of fresh water and for "old ice" that has been through rains and thaws. As opposed to salty ice, which is opaque and gray, freshwater ice has a bluish color and crystalline structure, and splinters easily with a knife.

If you're in a boat and surrounded by salt water, capture some in a container, and allow it to freeze. The fresh water will freeze first, while the salt will accumulate as slush in the middle. Remove the ice and discard the slush.

While snow and ice provide an excellent source of water, it should always be melted and purified first. Eating straight snow/ice will lower your body temperature, which dehydrates you because it forces your metabolic rate to speed up in order to keep you warm.

The best way to melt snow/ice and make it actually taste good is to simply mix it with other water you may have, even small amounts, and slosh it around until the snow melts. If you are heating it, add a little bit of other water to it; heating snow/ice directly can actually scorch it and produce a foul-tasting drink.

Desert-Specific Tips

In temperate, tropical, and frozen/icy climes, finding and collecting water is likely to happen within your 3-day window. Your primary concern is going to be collecting, storing, and purifying it. In desert environments though, simply finding a water source can be enormously difficult. Here a few tips specifically for arid environs:

Dig Wells

Start digging. Anywhere you see dampness on the ground or green vegetation, dig a large hole a few feet deep, and you'll likely get water seeping in. The same is true at the feet of cliffs, in dry river beds, at the first depression behind the first sand dune of dry desert lakes, and in valleys/low areas. You may not be successful, but you just might. This water will of course be rather muddy, so it will especially need filtering/purifying, but you'll have a water source nonetheless.

Collect Condensation from Metal

Extreme temperature variations between night and day can cause condensation on metal surfaces. Before the sun rises and vaporizes that moisture, collect it with absorbent cloth. This also means you should be placing your metal items in the open rather than stored in your pack.

Beach-Specific Tips

Dig a Beach Well

If you're stranded on land near a body of saltwater, you can still attain fresh water by digging a well on the beach. Behind the first sand dune - typically about 100 feet from shore - dig a 3-5' hole. Line the bottom with rocks, and the sides with wood (driftwood, most likely). This allows the well to fill up without collapsing or having too much sand in the water. In a few hours, you'll have a well full of fresh water - a combination of collected rainwater (which runs down the dunes), and sand-filtered ocean water. If it tastes salty, you simply move a little further away from shore.

A variation of this method is to let the water seep in, but then heat some additional rocks and drop them in the water. This will create steam, which can be collected by holding an absorbent cloth over the well. Wring out the cloth and repeat. This ensures that your water is free of all salt and other contaminants, but you will yield less.

Avoid Water Substitutes

In any desperate survival scenario, you may be tempted to try non-water liquids as a substitute for the real thing. In all but the most dire of situations, these should be avoided. In general, non-water substitutes only worsen your heath and vigor. These substitutes, and their harmful characteristics below:

Alcohol. Dehydrates and clouds judgment.

Urine. Contains harmful body waste and is about 2% salt.

Blood. May transmit disease. Also has high salt content.

Seawater/Sea Ice. Contains 4% salt. It takes more water to rid your body of the waste from seawater than what you get from it. Just depletes your body's H2O supply.

Of course, if you're a Bear Grylls fan, you'll know he famously drank his own urine while in the Sahara Desert. Is this safe to do, or was that for entertainment purposes? If you're down to your very last resort, drinking your urine can keep you alive for another day or two. It's 95% water, but that other 5% is comprised of waste products that will ultimately lead to kidney failure if subsisted on for more than a very short period of time. And of course as you get more dehydrated, this method becomes even more dangerous.

Before you resort to drinking your own pee, exhaust all the methods outlined above first. With a little effort, knowledge, and ingenuity, there's a good chance you'll be able to find genuine H2O.
For even more tips about developing your nature instinct, check out our podcast with Tristan Gooley:

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In any survival scenario, water is by far your most important resource. Luckily, with just a little bit of know-how, water can be found relatively easy in almost any environment on the planet.

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“The most common rattlesnake found in Central Texas is the Western Diamondback. It’s pretty recognizable: It has a diamond-shaped pattern along its body, black and white stripes toward its tail and, of course, a rattle.”

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What you should know about rattlesnakes in Central Texas

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Chances are you’ve walked past a rattlesnake before and didn’t even know it. Here’s what you should do if you encounter one.

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“Most concussions result from direct injuries to the head. Head injuries are common in nearly all sports, especially contact sports such as football, soccer, hockey, and boxing. But they can also occur when hiking, surfing, rock climbing, or whitewater rafting. Even a simple trip and fall while backpacking can result in a concussion. In fact, concussion can occur anytime someone hits their head hard enough for it to hurt, and even when the incident doesn’t result in a loss of consciousness.”

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National Center for Outdoor & Adventure Education

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Concussion recognition and treatment has gotten a lot of attention over the last decade, mostly in the context of youth and professional sports such as tackle football and soccer. It's even a topic for those who serve in our armed forces. However, confusion over its prevention, diagnosis, and treatment remains widespread.

In an interview with a reporter from the Chicago Sun Times, former National Football League quarterback Brett Favre, who was knocked out cold only once in his 20-year career, claimed that "probably 90 percent" of the tackles he endured left him with a concussion.

He's most likely correct in that estimation. After all, the definition of "concussion" is broad: "A concussion is a brain injury, a disturbance in brain function induced by traumatic forces, either from a direct blow to the head or a transmitted force from a blow to the body." It disrupts brain function at the cellular metabolic level but does not result in major structural damage. Conventional MRI or CT scanning will not show evidence of a concussion.

So, how do you know if you or someone else has suffered a concussion while in the backcountry? And, after having made that determination, what should be done? Having clear answers to these two questions is essential for successful recovery and to prevent long-term cognitive and psychological complications. This is true no matter where the concussion takes place, but especially in the backcountry where medical treatment from a full-time team is unavailable.
Knowing When to Suspect Concussion
Most concussions result from direct injuries to the head. Head injuries are common in nearly all sports, especially contact sports such as football, soccer, hockey, and boxing. But they can also occur when hiking, surfing, rock climbing, or whitewater rafting. Even a simple trip and fall while backpacking can result in a concussion. In fact, concussion can occur anytime someone hits their head hard enough for it to hurt, and even when the incident doesn't result in a loss of consciousness.

The defining feature of a concussion is altered brain function. Confusion, balance/coordination problems, memory problems and slowed response times are common signs. Patients frequently complain of a headache. With more severe concussions, symptoms may include nausea/vomiting and light/noise sensitivity.

Performing Concussion Field Tests
In the event of an injury, always treat life-threatening injuries first. Stop any bleeding and ensure the person is breathing adequately. If the person has lost consciousness, assume critical injuries have been sustained and respond appropriately.

If the person is conscious and, after an assessment, appears to have only minor injuries, perform the following tests to determine whether the person has suffered a concussion:

Ask detailed questions to evaluate memory function. Simple questions like, "What's your name?" or "What year is it?" are not adequate. Try asking something about events earlier in that day or events planned for later. For example, if you were mountain biking and a friend took a bad fall, ask questions such as, "What trail are we riding?" "What trail did we ride yesterday?" "Who was in the lead when you fell?" "What were we talking about at the last water break?" If the individual is slow or unable to answer, assume they have a concussion.

Test balance using a heel-to-toe walk (as long as there are no other injuries). If they stumble or have gaps between the heel of one foot and the toe of the other, this indicates poor coordination - likely the result of a concussion. (Note: When you administer this test, make sure someone is prepared to assist the individual in case they stumble and fall.)

Check cognitive function. Ask them to recite the alphabet or days of the week backwards. Ask them to spell a word backwards or recite a numeral "Three hundred eighty-seven" backwards (783). Or ask them to count by 7's or 9's. If they have trouble with these tasks, assume concussion.

Remember: All of these tests assume that you (the tester) have some knowledge of what would be considered "normal" performance for that individual. Use your best judgment.
Identifying Signs of Severe Injury
Severe concussion, traumatic brain injury (TBI), or internal bleeding (in the skull) may be present if the injured party is experiencing any of the following symptoms:

Loss of consciousness (especially lasting a minute or longer)

Severe headache

Repetitive vomiting

Seizure activity

Unequal pupils

Any localized neurologic problems (for example, slurred speech, vision problems, numbness or weakness on one side of the body)

Treatment and Evacuation Considerations
For all concussions, the treatment is rest (mental and physical), proper nutrition, and monitoring. The individual should not be allowed to return to physical or mental activity until 24 hours of being symptom free and then the return should be gradual. Concussion symptoms should improve gradually over hours to days. If symptoms do not improve or if they worsen, consider the possibility of a more severe problem.

Deciding whether to evacuate depends on the situation:

If evacuation would be quick and require minimal exertion, consider assisting the patient to hike out, being sure to take frequent breaks. This allows recovery to occur in a more controlled setting. In the backcountry, full rest can be impractical or impossible.

If self-evacuation would take multiple days, the patient should rest and recover in place. This can take two to three days. The goal is to rest until symptoms improve, then gradually increase activity. For example: Day 1, rest. Day 2, short, light hike. Day 3, hike without a pack. Day 4, hike with a pack. If symptoms worsen, go back to the previous stage for 24 hours.

With a severe concussion or if the individual does not seem to be improving (or is getting worse), consider calling for search and rescue to assist with the evacuation.

Recognizing the Consequences of Improper Treatment
With proper rest and recovery, most people will return to 100 percent within five to 10 days. If the brain is not allowed to fully heal, the individual is at risk for long-term cognitive and psychological complications.

It is imperative not to let someone jump back on their bike or start back up the mountain just because they insist they are "fine." Persuading someone that they need to slow down can be a challenge, especially when dealing with friends or peers. Before going out in the backcountry, have frank discussions with your group about how you plan to respond to medical emergencies, including concussions. That way everyone knows what to expect and will be more receptive to responding appropriately in the event an accident occurs. Wear appropriate safety gear including the most up-to-date helmets.

Head injuries - regardless of how minor they may seem at first - should always be taken seriously. Early intervention can lead to a better recovery and reduce the risk of severe complications. After returning from the backcountry, be sure to get plenty of rest and drink enough water in the days and weeks following the injury. If symptoms don't improve or they get worse, seek professional medical treatment.

If the treatment of medical emergencies in the backcountry is something you'd like to know about or train for, visit the wilderness medicine training section of the NCOAE website. There you'll find information on courses that not only teach you how to prevent, identify, and treat medical emergencies in the backcountry, but how to lead and think critically during one as well.

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About the Author: Kate Javes is a North Carolina Level 1 Paramedic and EMT Instructor at The National Center for Outdoor & Adventure Education. A former two-sport NCAA Division I athlete at Rutgers University, Kate received her Bachelor of Science degree in math, and a second bachelor's degree in History from the United States Naval Academy in Annapolis, Md.
About the Author: Kate Javes is an NC Level 1 EMT Instructor and a Paramedic at The National Center for Outdoor & Adventure Education. A former two-sport NCAA Division I athlete at Rutgers University, Kate received her Bachelor of Science degree in math, and a second bachelor's degree in History from the United States Naval Academy in Annapolis, Md.

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Concussion Recognition and Treatment in the Backcountry - National Center for Outdoor & Adventure Education

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Concussion recognition and treatment has gotten a lot of attention over the last decade, mostly in the context of youth and professional sports such as

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“The Center for Disease Control recommend a good old tweezer extraction. (The fine tip can even help you with a sesame seed-size nymph tick.) Position the tweezers as close to the skin as possible and pull straight out. No twisting, no squishing, no burning the tick off (as much as you would like to kill that sucker).”

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Ticks were once considered just an annoying insect. Now they're a veritable health hazard. With the rise in Lyme disease, a potentially serious medical condition transmitted through the bacteria in infected adults and even babies, the deer tick has become enemy number one.

Put simply, ticks are not worth messing around with. You want to prevent any interaction with these bloodsuckers, not to mention letting one hook on for too long.

To help you avoid both issues, here are some basic tips about how to steer clear of ticks while outdoors-and recover quickly should one take your sweaty skin for a snack.

Where They Hang Out

Ticks like woods and areas with plentiful grass and brush. (They hang out on animals, too.) So if you like to hike, bike, camp, or do pretty much any outdoor activity, there's a good chance you'll enter tick territory at some point.

Stay near the middle of trails when you can. And if you live near high-tick areas like the Northeast, they may already be in your yard. You can't always avoid these areas, but it's good to be cautious where you know ticks like to spend time.

It's also important to learn which ticks populate the place you live or plan to visit. (There are over 80 kinds.) We know the deer (or blacklegged) tick carries the most serious disease, Lymes. It's recognizable by its reddish-brown body. Others like the Lone Star, American Dog, Rocky Mountain Wood, and Dog tick types do not transmit Lyme disease, but can still transmit other nasty things.

What to Wear

Your best chance of fighting off ticks is by wearing the right layers. Long sleeves and pants are your best form of protection. To make sure you don't fry, try for light-colored clothing. You can even tuck your pant legs into your socks (we won't tell) for more protection.

Then there's the second step of adding some sort of repellent to clothes, boots, and camping gear. However the most commonly used tick-busters-something with at least 20-percent DEET and permethrin (or picaridin)-are not so human-friendly, so you can look into other natural options if you're concerned.

Some people swear by herbs like rose geranium, sweetgrass, pennyroyal, rosemary, among others. Or you can always check repellents registered with the EPA.

What to Do After a Bite

You can try all these precautions. You can be diligent about checking your clothing, pets, and body parts (especially ears, underarms, back of the knees, and scalp) after you're in the bush and you can even take a shower right after you come in to help unhinge the insects before they bite. But one day, an eight-legged (not six), blood-sucking tick will certainly take hold, and you'll want to act fast.

The Center for Disease Control recommends good old tweezer extraction. (The fine tips can even help you with a sesame seed-size nymph tick.) Position the tweezers as close to the skin as possible and pull straight out. No twisting, no squishing, no burning the tick off (as much as you would like to kill that sucker).

Then wash the bite area with soap and water. If you're concerned about what type of tick it is, save it in a container and take it in for inspection. Most illnesses are transmitted within 24 hours of exposure, but signs can show up days or weeks later. Get to a doctor if you can't remove the tick, or if after doing so you see a big red "bull's eye" appear at the bite area, or start having flu-like symptoms.

And if you're in a high deer tick area and feel any of these symptoms (with or without actually seeing or removing the tick), get in for antibiotics. Lyme disease is highly treatable when caught early.

Top layers like the ExOfficio BugsAway Lumen Women's Hoodie or the BugsAway Men's Tarka Shirt are great places to start.

You can also double your chances of a tick-free hiking trip by wearing a bottom layer that's just effective as the top. Craghoppers NosiLife Women's Trousers or the ExOfficio BugsAway Damselfly Pants are gonna protect you from the waist down. They also make them for in youth sizes (so your kiddos can be covered, as well) with the Craghoppers NosiLife Terrigal Trousers.

If you're looking for something more like a repellent (and you're not opposed to products with DEET) then you'll certainly want to try something like Sawyer Jungle Juice 100 Pump Spray Insect Repellent or Ben's 100 Max Formula Insect Repellent.

However, if you'd like to go more of the natural route, there are definitely some options out there, such as Natrapel 8-hour insect repellent that will keep bugs away without harsh chemicals such as DEET, or All Terrain Herbal Armor DEET-Free Natural Insect Repellent.

And don't forget to cover your head and neck with something like the Buff UV Insect Shield Headwear or even the Sea to Summit Head Net with Insect Shield if you plan on going somewhere with extreme cases of insects.

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How to Prevent (and Treat) Tick Bites While in the Wilderness

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If you're planning hiking or camping soon, here is a guide as to where these bloodsuckers hang out, how to repel them, and what to do if you get a tick bit.

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ALL ANIMALS ON WEBSITE

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Forget heart disease and cancer and all the other tragic or banal ways most of us will exit this world of the living. Instead, seek distraction via our completely unscientific and by no means definitive list of the most dangerous creatures in Texas that could, by some fluke, kill you first.

Brain-eating Amoebas

For sweet relief from the interminable hellscape that is the Texas summer, plunk your hot bod into the nearest swimming hole. Just beware of the Naegleria fowleri, a nasty little single-celled organism lurking in warm water and nicknamed for its favorite pastime-literally eating human brains. Naegleria enters your body through the nose and shimmies into your skull, where it plays around in your brains, destroying the tissue. (This amoeba can also strike when you use contaminated tap water to flush your sinuses, FYI.) It is present in freshwater throughout Texas, and there's really no body of water that can be considered safer from it than others. Experts advise keeping your head dry when wading in a stream or lake where water temperatures are warm and water levels are low.

The good news? Infections are rare: only 34 were reported in the United States between 2009 and 2018, the CDC reports. "It is extremely serious and almost always fatal," Texas Department of State Health Services spokesman Chris Van Deusen told KWTX in September. "Since it's so rare, we don't know why a few people get sick while millions who swim in natural bodies of water don't."

Flesh-eating Bacteria

Heading to the beach? Just hope you don't encounter a particularly vicious bacterium called vibrio, which attacks swimmers in the ocean or brackish water. Vibrio gets under your skin through cuts, scrapes, or even insect bites, then spreads quickly through the soft tissue of your body-a disease called necrotizing fasciitis, which causes painful red swelling followed by fever, ulcers, blisters, black spots under the skin, and oozing pus. You also might start to feel dizzy, fatigued, or nauseated, or you could have diarrhea.

According to Texas A&M College of Medicine professor Hector Chapa, between 700 and 1,200 people contract necrotizing fasciitis every year. One in three of those people will die, as did two men at Texas beaches in July. If flesh-eating bacteria finds its way into your body, you need antibiotics as quickly as possible, followed by possible surgery and the removal of dead tissue to keep the infection from spreading, before sepsis, shock, and organ failure set in.

Snakes

They slither throughout the state, but for a generation of TV-watching Texas children, the Lonesome Dove miniseries instilled a healthy fear of one snake in particular: "Water moccasins!" unlucky young sprout Sean O'Brien screamed moments before the credits rolled on the first episode, as he thrashed in the Nueces River in a terrifying tangle of moccasins, also known as cottonmouths-right before one bit him on his cheek and sent him to an early grave.

Elsewhere, Texans looking out for coral snakes remind themselves that "red and yeller kill a feller." They also watch out for the copperhead and the western diamondback rattlesnake, named for its distinctive diamond-patterned markings. But compared with many other snakes, the timber rattlesnake, also known as the canebrake rattler, is doubly deadly. It possesses not one but two kinds of venom: neurotoxic, which attacks the nervous system, paralyzing its victim; and hemotoxic, which destroys body tissue, making you easy to digest. I knew an East Texan who nearly died when a canebrake fanged his hand, permanently gnarling a couple of his fingers.

Spiders

First, the good news: the male black widow spider is harmless to humans. The bad news: the female black widow, which eats the male after mating with him, will seriously mess you up.

The female is jet black, with a red or yellow hourglass shape on its underside. Its victim might not even notice the pinprick of its bite, only feel an array of unpleasant symptoms later, from cramping and convulsions to sweating, tremors, vomiting, and loss of consciousness. Look for black widows around woodpiles and "outdoor toilets," warns the Texas Department of State Health Services.

Texas's other species of venomous spider, the brown recluse, often hides in dark basements or garages. It's golden brown, with a dark fiddle-shaped pattern on its back, and its venom can cause fever and chills, lesions, restlessness, or-believe it or not- "nothing."

Alligators

At night, when alligators mosey into the waters of Texas bayous and swamps, pairs of their eyes catch the moonlight and seem to glow. With their sharp teeth and powerful jaws, and bodies weighing close to a thousand pounds, they can drag you underwater to drown you. If a gator hisses, you know you're too close. These primordial reptiles rarely hassle people, unless they lose their fear of humans and become aggressive. Four years ago in Orange, a 28-year-old man became the first fatality from an alligator attack in Texas since 1836 when he uttered a few poorly chosen last words (which quickly swept the internet and became an unfortunate catch phrase) and jumped for a late-night swim into a bayou where a twelve-foot-long alligator lurked.

Sharks

The Shark Attack Database reports 58 unprovoked shark attacks in Texas since 1900, including five that were fatal. The last person killed by a shark in Texas, 40-year-old Hans Fix, was surf fishing in waist-deep water off Andy Bowie Park on South Padre Island in 1962 when an unknown species of shark bit his lower right leg. "You'll never go in the water again," as they say.

Kissing Bugs

Also known as cone-nose bugs or chinches, these insects feed on blood at night and like to bite humans around mouths or eyes, hence their reputation for "kissing" their victims. About half of kissing bugs are infected with a parasite that can be passed to humans when the bug poops near the site of the bite, causing Chagas disease. Early symptoms-like fatigue, rash and loss of appetite-can last weeks but make the disease difficult to diagnose because they're so similar to other illnesses. A little less than a third of bite victims go on to develop chronic Chagas disease, leading to an enlarged heart and other cardiac and intestinal problems, including an enlarged esophagus or colon, that make digestion difficult. The complications may not appear for decades. If left untreated, yes, it can kill ya.

Scorpions

Shake out those boots before you slide 'em over your stockinged feet- scorpion stings, while rarely fatal, can cause intense pain and swelling. The venom can trigger allergic reactions, leading to difficulty breathing and twitching muscles, as well as vomiting. (Pro tip: if one of these lobster-like arachnids ever hitches a ride to Garner State Park in the bag where you keep your air mattress, and then it pricks you on the palm, immediately stop setting up camp and promptly dunk your hand in the Frio.)

Fire Ants

As if Texans needed another reason to panic in the aftermath of Hurricane Harvey, viral videos revealed giant flotillas of invasive fire ants, a species that adapted to survive frequent flooding in its native South America by forming giant, teeming mats of up to 100,000 venomous ants looking for a dry place to reestablish their cursed colonies. When the waters recede after the next big flood, just be glad they didn't land on you.

Mountain Lions

Also known as the cougar, panther, puma, or catamount, this powerful but shy wildcat could absolutely murder the average human if it wanted to. But it doesn't want to. Only four mountain lion attacks on humans in Texas have been reported since 1980, all of them in remote areas of West Texas, and none of them were fatal.

Nine-banded Armadillos

Often oblivious to their surroundings as they noisily root around for insects and other grub, about 20 percent of these cute little armored creatures are carriers of leprosy, or Hansen's disease, the ancient ailment seen as a curse from God during biblical times. Armadillos likely acquired the microbe that causes leprosy from humans sometime after Christopher Columbus showed up in the New World. They can retransmit it to humans who come into contact with them and are responsible for about one-third of leprosy cases in the U.S. each year, primarily in Texas and Louisiana.

"The important thing is that people should be discouraged from consuming armadillo flesh or handling it," Dr. Richard W. Truman, a researcher at the National Hansen's Disease Program in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, told the New York Times.

Which raises the question: are folks still paying $2.50 for 'dillos down in Hallettsville?

Whitetail Deer

A deer doesn't have to crash through your windshield at 70 miles per hour to inflict harm on human beings: "Whitetail attacks on humans aren't as rare as you may think," reports OutdoorLife magazine. "And when they do occur, things can get ugly in a hurry."

In 2007, the magazine reported, a Texas fisherman was watching as a nine-point buck swam across the Trinity River, shook itself dry, and its "demeanor changed from one of simple curiosity to one of pure malevolence." The buck pawed the ground and charged, smashing the angler and tossing him into the river, where they tangled in the water. When they climbed out, the buck charged again, slamming him to the ground and stabbing his face with his antlers. The man's nephew had to slit the buck's throat to end the brutal blitz.

So, you know, watch out for those whitetails. And everything else.
This article has been updated to correct a mistake about the fire ant's native habitat, and the location of the brown recluse's fiddle-shaped pattern.

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These creatures-some creepy crawlers, some fearsome beasts, some microscopic threats-can and will kill you, maybe.

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Learn bow making instructions on how to make a quickie survival bow from a sapling