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The Moroccan tagine is a dish, typically a stew, named after the clay pot it is cooked in. Typically a combination of meat, vegetables, grains, and broth, this dish can take many forms. It also often includes spices, like ginger, cumin, turmeric, and saffron, and nuts and dried fruits. Meats can include beef, lamb, goat, or chicken.

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Ibn Battuta's travelogue, The Travels of Ibn Battuta, tells the story of his travels through North Africa, the Middle East and even to East Africa, such as modern day Somalia,and India and China. This is especially impressive since he traveled on horseback during the 1300s. His works offer incredible glimpses into life during this time, including the Hajj in Mecca.

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Morocco (pop. 37 million) is located in northern Africa between Western Sahara and Algeria on both the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Its capital Rabat is one of its many large cities, others include Fez, Casablanca, Tangiers, and Marrakech. Morocco is only 8 miles away from Spain. Ferries cross between these two countries in under 35 minutes. I came close to traveling to Morocco when I was in Spain for 3 weeks, but I never made it. It has become the number one country on my travel bucket list.

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Adventure Experience: Camel Trekking in the Sahara Desert

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Adventure Experience: Camel Trekking in the Sahara Desert

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The way shadows look in the desert has always been captivating to me.  I'm not sure if I want to see them from a camel though.  Weirdly, my mom rode a camel in Morocco in the 1960s, so this also be where my interest in Morocco came from.

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Disclaimer: Our articles may contain affiliate links. See end of article for more details.

Camel riding in Morocco is one of the most iconic travel experiences you can have.

Riding a camel in the Sahara Desert to spend a night under the stars in a desert camp is not only an iconic experience, but it will also be one of the most memorable of your life. A Sahara Desert adventure is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

What to expect from the Sahara Region

It is a misconception the Moroccan Sahara is entirely made up of dunes. The Sahara, the most extensive desert in the world, starts in Morocco with a flat, arid, rocky landscape. A mixture of sand and rock.

The Sahara region is also an exciting mix of scenic gorges and beautiful oasis towns. Many of these areas are set against the stunning backdrop of the Atlas Mountains, which you need to cross to get to the desert from Marrakech or Fez. It is a vast area, but worth it if you have sufficient time to travel the distances involved.

Where do Sahara Desert Tours Leave From

Covering an area of 9.4 million square kilometres, the Sahara engulfs most of North Africa. Few places in the world compare. The Sahara covers Morocco's western border.

The two main sand dunes tourists visit and where the Sahara tours leave from are Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga (erg meaning dune). While each offers a unique experience, the most popular is Erg Chebbi with dunes reaching over 520 feet high.

Erg Chigaga is a little more off the beaten track. As it is over 60km's from the nearest road, there are fewer facilities, so it offers a much more rustic experience. The trip there will be longer and more testing as well.

Erg Chebbi is more accessible, only 30 Km from the town of Merzouga, close to the border of Algeria. There are modern hotels and some small Auberge's (small inns or motels) dotted along the remote drive between Merzouga and Erg Chebbi for those who want to break the long trip up.
Check Latest Rates for Accommodation and Hotels in Merzouga Here
How far is the Sahara Desert from Marrakech and Fez

Marrakech is approx 600km from Merzouga near the Erg Chebbi dunes and approximately 360km from Zagora, near the Er Chigaga dunes.

Fez is approx 470km from Merzouga and 670km from Zagora.

While the distances don't seem that long, much of the driving is over mountain passes and on basic roads. Travelling from Marrakech or Fez to the Sahara will take a full day at best.

We travelled to the Sahara Desert as part of a 3-day trip from Marrakech to Fez. You can read about this here.

Preparing for Camel Trekking

When you arrive at Erg Chebbi, you will be asked to take ONLY what you need in a small bag as you must carry all of your belongings and required water for the night on your camel. Our bags were small as instructed. Although, no one said anything about heavy. Who said you couldn't enjoy a few cheeky reds in the Sahara?!

You will then be fitted with a camel and not so formally acquainted with your trusty steed. You will mount and try to stay mounted while the animal stands up. A very strange motion at first and not so graceful. Then, it's off into the dunes of the Sahara.

Note: There are in fact no camels in the Sahara Desert, only 'Dromedary'. This is the correct name for the one-humped mode of desert transport. Only the two-humped variety are called camels.

To our surprise (and slight relief) the camels are tied together with a rope and walk in line following a guide. Much like the camel caravans used on the historic trade routes. Some might find this comforting while others may have been expecting more of a solo affair. None the less, this is not a failsafe system.

I watched as my camel expertly undid the knot in the rope with his teeth. Once freed, he slowed to ensure a good distance between us and the group and casually started heading in another direction. As the rest of the caravan dutifully followed the guide across the rolling dunes of the Sahara, my camel and I strayed further and further from the group. Thankfully my calls for help were eventually heard, and I was rescued and refastened to the group.

I am guessing this was not an isolated incident as they were sure to put my camel in the middle of the group from then on.

Camel Trekking in the Desert

When you first head into the desert, the enormity of the harsh terrain, the continually changing colours of the sand and incredible stillness is both overwhelming and peaceful. The same could not be said for my camel, there was no peace or silence just noises and smells coming from each end.

For a few hours, you can enjoy the surreal landscape and marvel at the existence of tiny Berber camps tucked away beneath the mountainous dunes. Once you start to get the feel of the ungainly motion of a camel, the ride is relatively comfortable. Although after the 2-3 hour ride to our overnight camp, we were all glad to stretch our legs.

Overnight in a Sahara Desert Camp

A night in a desert camp, under the stars, experiencing the Sahara Desert at night is a truly unique experience.

Our accommodation was one of the Berber Nomad camps that dot the Sahara. The Nomad campsites are made up of a circle of traditional woollen tents with a central fire pit. It is a simple affair with basic sleeping and toilet facilities. Each tent is lined with woven rugs and small sleeping mattresses on the floor.

Blankets are provided which are usually sufficient. Although, the Sahara temperature plummets at night so be prepared with warm clothing. You may even like to bring a small sleeping bag for extra warmth, especially during the winter months between November and March.

Your nomad guides will prepare dinner, most likely a hearty Tagine served with mint tea around the central campfire. If you fancy a tipple with your meal, make sure you bring it with you. We were smart enough to pack a bottle of red wine.
After dinner, your hosts will entertain you with traditional Berber music which they will encourage you to try your hand at.

Sunrise in the Sahara

Believe it or not, the highlight of any Sahara Desert tour is sunrise.

If you only spend one night in the Sahara you will most likely head back to the main hotel early in the morning, so it's an early start and a cold one. The hotel will serve you breakfast and you can take a shower and use the pool before you head off.

At what feels like the middle of the night our trusted nomad guide wakes us by playing a small set of traditional symbols. We rug up and load our camels again to set off in complete darkness. In the cold and the dark, you start to wonder about the sense of it all and then the sun begins to rise.

You are suddenly grateful for the early start and for the long journey to get to the Sahara. The magnificent landscape of changing colours as the sun eases its way up over the Sahara dunes. The sunrise is even more spectacular than the sunset.

What to Pack for a Night in the Sahara Desert

A small backpack or bag - You can only take with you what you can carry in a small bag on your camel. We travel with a lightweight, foldable pack that can be shoved into our luggage when we are not using it, and it doesn't take up too much room.
Clothing

A windbreaker or light jacket for the cooler nights and mornings. If visiting between October and March, you may want a more substantial fleece and maybe some light underlayers.

Warm beanie - You may want to sleep in this too if it is really cold.

Comfortable pants or jeans to prevent chaffing while riding the camel. Leggings are also suitable for the girls as they are perfect for sleeping in.

Lightweight, breathable tops for the daytime. Tees and maybe a long sleeved shirt for sun protection.
Remember, you are only staying one or two nights so will not need lots of changes of clothes.

Appropriate shoes - sneakers or hiking boots are best. Sandals or flip-flops are no good for riding the camels or for climbing dunes.

A headscarf to block the sun and dust. You may want to bring a cap or wide brim hat as well.

Sunglasses

Electronics and Gear

A small travel flashlight or even better a to use at night at the campsite. It is very dark after lights out, so it is helpful to be hands-free when you are packing in the morning and for the toilets during the night.

Camera Protection - sand is your camera gear's worst enemy so it would pay to have some ziplock bags keeping any electronics safe. A dry pack is also useful for this, especially when climbing the dunes. If you have expensive camera gear, a special casing might be worthwhile.

Extra camera batteries and a large capacity external charger. Especially if like us, you take a lot of photos and video. Don't forget your charging cords,

Personal Items

Water - Consider at least a couple of litres, if not more.

Basic toiletry kit - facial wipes, small sunscreen, chapstick with sunscreen, toothbrush, toothpaste, mini deodorant, antibacterial hand wipes.

Any medications you might require.

If you want to have a drink with your evening meal, you may have to bring your own alcohol. Check with your tour group in advance so you can be prepared. And remember, you can only bring what you can carry.

You can read our full packing list for Morocco here

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Camel Trekking in Morocco - Experience a Sahara Desert Tour

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Camel riding in Morocco is one of the most iconic travel experiences. Riding a camel in the Sahara Desert to spend a night in a desert camp is not only an iconic experience, it will be one of the most memorable of your life. A Sahara Desert tour is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

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Many people decorate their doors in Morocco in unique ways to reflect their interests or personality. There are so many beautiful examples of doors here and the colors of the houses are amazing too.

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I saw Emil Zrihan, "The Moroccan nightingale," perform at the Chicago Cultural Center and I was blown away. His voice and music is moving despite the fact that I don't know what he is singing. I would love to see him perform again, but this time in Morocco.  This is my favorite of his songs and probably also what kicked off my lifelong love of Morocco.

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Sacred Site: Festival of Sacred Music in Fez

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Sacred Site: Festival of Sacred Music in Fez

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I've read so much about this festival that draws people of all faiths to perform and listen. A great example of unity, this festival, founded in 1994, brings people from all over the world to connect through music.

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A souk is a market and the one in Fez is incredible. I always try to visit markets when I travel, and this one tops my list of places I want to go when I visit Morocco. There is so much to see here and it all seems beautiful.

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These are some incredibly beautiful mountains. I love that you can visit incredible mountains and the desert within a few hours of each other. One day that will be me standing there.

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Cultural Event: Kelaa-des-Mgouna Rose Festival

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Cultural Event: Kelaa-des-Mgouna Rose Festival

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This yearly festival celebrates the damask roses that grow in this part of Morocco. They are supposed to have the most fragrance of any rose in the world.

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Dawn is tinting the Atlas Mountains rust-red as the rose-pickers of Hdida set out for work. Dressed in flip-flops and djellabas (full-length hooded garments with long sleeves), they follow a dusty path down to the fields and before too long are lost in foliage.

Travel into a secret valley deep in the Atlas Mountains for a floral festival unlike any other © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

Fruit trees teeter over the trail, laden with figs, dates and oranges. Barley and alfalfa sprout from the orange earth, watered by channels beside the path. Pomegranates dangle from overhanging branches. But the women aren't here to pick fruit; they're here to harvest something more fragrant.

'Can you smell them?' asks Ait Khouya Aicha, as she pads into a meadow fringed by walnut trees, and heads for a tangle of shrubs. She pulls down a branch: it's covered by flowers from trunk to tip, shocking pink against the deep-green leaves.

'These are the roses of the Asif M'Goun River,' she says, cradling a blossom in her hand. 'They are famous around the world. But to understand why, you must smell them.' Pulling on thick gloves, she snips off the flower and breathes in the scent. The perfume is heady and sweet, with notes of honey and treacle.

Ait Khouya Aicha and Azrour Zahra working in the rose fields near the village of Hdida © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

'The fragrance is best in the morning, but we must work quickly,' she says, dropping the flower into a robe gathered around her waist known as a tachtate. 'The sun will burn the petals and then the perfume will be ruined.'

Within half an hour, Aicha and her companions have stripped the bushes of blossoms, and four sacks have been filled to the brim. They head back to the village, sharing a bag of dates and nuts for breakfast. Twenty minutes later, they arrive at a backstreet garage that doubles as the village's rose co-operative, where owner Ahmid Mansouri inspects the blossoms, weighs them on battered scales and adds them to a heap covering the concrete floor.

'These are good roses,' he says, puffing on a crooked roll-up. 'But last week we were harvesting twice as many. Next week they will be gone. And that means one thing. It is time for the Festival of the Roses to begin.'

Baskets filled to the brim with dried rose buds © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

No one is sure how roses first came to this remote corner of Morocco, high in the Atlas Mountains, six hours' drive southeast of Marrakesh. According to legend, they were carried here centuries ago by a Berber merchant from Damascus; the species that grows here is Rosa damascena, the Damask rose, which originates from ancient Syria and has been celebrated for centuries for its intense perfume.

However they arrived, the M'Goun Valley - or the Vallée des Roses, as it's known in Morocco - has become famous for its flowers. Every year during the main growing season between April and mid-May, the valley produces between 3000 and 4000 tonnes of wild roses. They're everywhere: sprouting up from the hedgerows, blooming along stone walls, tangling the borders between farmers' fields. Each day before dawn, women gather the roses by hand and sell them to co-operatives dotted along the valley. Some are bought by local distilleries to make rose water, soaps and potpourri, but the majority are bought by big French perfume houses, for whom the M'Goun roses command a special cachet.

It's an intensive - and expensive - business: around four tonnes of fresh petals, or 1.6 million flowers, are required to make a single litre of rose oil, and with each litre fetching around €12,000 (£10,000), the rewards are obvious. But with intense competition from other rose-growing areas, especially in Turkey and Bulgaria, the M'Goun Valley needs to find ways to catch the noses of overseas buyers - and that's where the Festival des Roses comes in.

Farmer Hamid Azabi and his mule walk beside the M'Goun River in the early morning © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

It's the day before the festival, and all along the Asif M'Goun, people are preparing for the party. Halfway along the valley lies the village of Hdida, a cluster of terracotta houses framed by crimson peaks and the blue thread of the river. It's a hive of activity: girls sit cross-legged on the steps, stringing roses into bracelets, necklaces and heart-shaped garlands, while women stick labels onto rose water bottles and pack dried petals into canvas sacks. On the streets, farmers load crates of flowers onto the backs of battered trucks, before puttering off for town with a crack of the exhaust and a cloud of black smoke, waving to children peeking from gateways as they rattle past.

Everyone in the village has a task to do, and Naima Mansouri is no exception. Wearing in a pink djellaba, hands traced with henna tattoos, she's making potpourri for the festival. She packs canvas bags with dried petals, tying each one with ribbon and adding a sticker for the village co-op. At the back of the room, petal-filled baskets are piled against the wall, and a copper still glints in the shadows.

Niama Mansouri, a young member of Hdida's rose-growing co-operative © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

'This year has been good,' says Naima. 'The roses have grown well, and we have plenty to sell. And this year we began distilling our own rose water,' she adds, pointing to the still. 'Would you like to see where the flowers are dried?'

She climbs up to the rooftop where a carpet of petals is scattered across the concrete, drying in the sunshine. In the distance, the M'Goun River snakes along the valley, a strand of silver-blue in a sea of red rock. Along the horizon, mountains loom, glowing like coals in the afternoon light.

'It takes two weeks for the flowers to dry. These will be ready tomorrow for the festival,' Naima explains. 'Now it is time for tea.'

A round of rose tea after a hard day's picking © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

She heads inside, and soon emerges with a tray laden with a teapot, glasses and a bowlful of rose petals. She lifts the lid and adds the flowers to the pot, stirring it with a long spoon. 'We drink rose tea at this time of year,' she says, raising the pot high as she pours to create bubbles in the glass. 'It is good for the digestion and the circulation. And it tastes nice too.'

She sips her tea and watches a mule cart loaded with pink flowers clatter along the street below. Before the construction of the road, villagers used a network of old paths through the mountains, and even now, many people rely on their mules as their primary form of transport - although these days, the old paths are mainly used by hikers and trekkers, who are seduced by the wild grandeur of the High Atlas: a world of crumbling kasbahs, gorges and mud-brick villages, where storks nest on the rooftops, and peregrine falcons and snake eagles circle in the sky.

Even the street art in the town of Kalaat M'Gouna is on a rose theme © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

'Welcome! We are glad to have you at the Festival des Roses!' announces shopkeeper Brahim Tichki, clapping his hands in delight. Around his hole-in-the-wall shop in Kalaat M'Gouna, 11 miles south of Hdida, the shelves are piled with rose products, all wrapped up in shocking-pink packaging. There are soaps and perfumes, shampoos and eaux de toilette. There are ointments, and of course, there are bottles and bottles of rose water and rose oil.

'Try, try! It is good for the hair! Good for the skin! Good for the heart!' Brahim trumpets, brandishing a spray-bottle with which he puffs rose water onto the faces of unsuspecting customers. 'It makes you smell sweet, too! Your wife will be happy!'

On the streets outside, the festival is in full swing. Festival-goers throng the pavements. Street vendors sizzle kebabs over charcoal. Salesmen tout rugs and ceremonial swords. Traders holler for business, and policemen make a valiant attempt to marshal the traffic, blowing hard into their whistles, barely audible above the din of truck engines and drums.

Musicians performing at the festival opening ceremony © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

Inside the festival concourse, things are scarcely more organised. Under white canvas tents, the valley's co-ops are showing off their rose crops. Growers and buyers haggle over terms, sealing deals with handshakes and kisses. Roses are everywhere: tied into garlands, scattered over tables, projected onto television screens and worn as pendants, bracelets and buttonholes. The scent of flowers is overpowering, sweet and fluorescent, with a hint of over-ripened fruit, like a Glade plug-in air freshener on overdrive. But though roses are the main attraction, there are other products on show too: piles of apples and dates, almonds and walnuts, cinnamon and saffron, sourced from all over the Atlas Mountains.

Hannau Amrouch is a Berber elder from M'semrir, a remote mountain village renowned for its apples. Dressed in the traditional garb of her tribe - a flowery djellaba, striped mantle and sequinned headdress, a Berber tattoo inked on her chin - she's become a local celebrity as a champion of rural women's rights. For her, the roses aren't just good for M'Goun's local economy; they also illustrate the changing role of women in Moroccan society.

Hannou Amrouch, a prominent figure in rural women's rights in Morocco, wearing traditional Berber costume © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

'Life is hard for women in rural Morocco,' she explains, shaking hands with well-wishers and posing for selfies. 'There is little education, and most of their time is spent raising their families and working in the fields. But here the women are in charge of the rose harvest; they do the growing and the picking, and often the drying and distilling too. They find confidence and skills, and this is positive for all our futures.'

She disappears into the crowd, pursued by reporters and a barrage of camera flashes. As she leaves, a loudspeaker blares over the crowd, barely audible above the hubbub.

'Attention all rose-lovers!' it trumpets. 'Attention! It is time for this year's Rose Queen to be announced!'

Across town in Kalaat M'Gouna's football stadium, it's a packed house. Every seat is taken, and outside, a big screen in the square broadcasts the action live. At one end of the stadium, a red tent has been erected, where dignitaries and VIPs sit, ready to cast votes. While they wait for the show, dancers and musicians entertain the crowd with desert songs and tribal dances, and a DJ pumps out African house music.

Afternoon shifts into dusk, and the stadium's floodlights snap on. It's showtime. Fifteen girls, each chosen from a different rose-growing district, take it in turns to sashay down the red carpet, all smiles and fluttering eyelashes. Their hand-stitched costumes reflect local dress: some wear flowing robes and colourful tunics, others are draped in lacy headdresses, trimmed with sequins, ribbons, beads and brass discs. At the end of the catwalk, each gives a short speech and a brief interview with the compère before disappearing into the wings.

The Rose Queen is paraded through the streets of Kalaat M'Gouna © Lottie Davies / Lonely Planet

With a crescendo of drums and a boom of fireworks, the winner is announced: it's Fatima E Zahra El Amiri, a 23-year-old from a village on the edge of the valley. Applause thunders across the stadium, and the winner dissolves into tears as she's showered with rose petals. Cameras pop around the stadium, and Fatima hugs her fellow contestants as she waves to the crowd and begins one of many victory laps.

Tomorrow, she'll lead the parade through the centre of Kalaat M'Gouna, but for now, there are interviews to be done, pictures to be taken, grandees to meet. The party will go on late into the night, and she'll find precious little time to sleep. After all, she's this year's Queen of the Roses, and in the valley of the flowers, there's no greater honour than that.

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Valley of the Roses: discover Morocco's floral festival

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Dawn is tinting the Atlas Mountains rust-red as the rose-pickers of Hdida set out for work. Dressed in flip-flops and djellabas (full-length hooded garments with long sleeves), they follow a dusty path down to the fields and before too long are lost in foliage.

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Zellij is mosaic tile that comes in a variety of intricate patterns. One day the kitchen of my dreams will have zellij. I saw many examples of this at the Alhambra is Granada. It just made me want to see more in Morocco where it originates.

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Gnawa music is a hypnotic style of music that is designed to engage the listener in trance-like dancing.  It heavily features the guimbri,  a three stringed lute.