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Computing has changed a lot in the last decade. For many, smartphones have become the go-to method of playing games, staying in touch with friends, and browsing the Web for answers to spur-of-the-moment trivia questions and viewing cat pictures. When you need something more powerful, or with a bigger screen, you might reach for a tablet. And if actual, real work calls, the laptop you'd use is probably svelte, light, and stylish. Traditional bulky desktops are increasingly rare, and when you see them, they're usually all-in-ones, or decked out with designs that are meant to be noticed. Let's face it, no one really builds their own desktop PC anymore, right?

Wrong, actually. DIY may not be all it used to be, but it's still a thriving sector of the PC industry, and one that any serious computer user-we mean the type of person who cares more about what a computer can do than how small an envelope it can slide into-should be aware of. Because, if you want the strongest, most adaptable, most upgradeable, and most personal computer you can possibly get, there's no way around it: You need to build it yourself.

By researching each individual component's capabilities and limitations, you can tailor your purchases to your exact needs now and in the future. And if your requirements or your mood change tomorrow, next week, next month, or next year, you can easily pull out and replace as few as one of the pieces, and your computer is perfect for you yet again. Nothing else gives you this much control or satisfaction. Yes, you'll have to sacrifice some-maybe a lot-of portability, but the result will be something you can totally and deeply call your own as you never will be able to with an unchangeable system designed and manufactured entirely by someone else.

Building your own PC is not necessarily an inexpensive or quick proposition. But if you're willing to devote the time and resources to the project, you will end up with the best possible computer on Earth for you -and that will make everything else worthwhile.

Shopping for Parts
The most difficult and time-consuming part of the PC-building process happens long before you start looking for the screwdriver. You can't even start thinking about assembling the individual components until you buy them-and that means doing a lot of investigating into the options (of which there are thousands) and, believe it or not, some serious soul-searching.

The first, and most important, thing to consider is: What do you want your PC to do? Are you looking for a really inexpensive system to put in the kids' room? Do you want a squat, console-like desktop that will fit right next to the TV that you can use for streaming media, or maybe as a Steam Machine? Is a dedicated work PC for your home office the goal? Or do you want the biggest, baddest build that can play the hottest new games without breaking a sweat?

We can't answer this question for you. But once you've reached a decision, you'll have a better idea of what you need to buy and how much money you'll have to spend. And then you can get on to the actual shopping.

For research and shopping, we highly recommend using Newegg.com(Opens in a new window) . It has a dizzyingly wide selection of components in every conceivable category and one of the Internet's most powerful search engines for narrowing down your precise needs. But feel free to use your favorite tool (or brick-and-mortar store).

The nuances of what components do, and how to best get them to serve your needs, is beyond the scope of this story. But the descriptions below of their functions and what you need to look for when shopping should give you a solid of idea of where to start in collecting all the parts you'll need for your PC.

Processor

If you're building a gaming PC on a budget, you'll probably want to start off by choosing a video card (see below). But everyone else can start with the central processing unit (CPU), or processor, the "brain" of the computer that, well, processes all the instructions it receives from the software you run and the other components you have installed. Because of the considerable difference it will make in how well you run every program on your PC, paying particular attention to its capabilities is crucial. Here's what to look for:

Number of cores. Back when every CPU only contained one processing unit, or core, clock speed was the easiest way to measure performance. But practically every processor today is a multicore CPU, and the more cores a chip has, the more it can accomplish at once (if it's supported by the software). Most common are two- (dual-) and four- (quad-)core CPUs, though six- and eight-core CPUs are becoming more visible on the market.

Number of threads. Most processors today, particularly from Intel, can simultaneously operate two processing threads per core (Intel calls this technology hyperthreading), effectively doubling your core count. Because not every processor supports this, check that yours does if you expect to be running a lot of multithreaded applications.

Clock speed (operating frequency). This is the frequency at which each core in a CPU runs, or the number of cycles it is able to execute per second. The higher the number, the faster CPU will generally be per core. These days, clock speed is measured in gigahertz (GHz), or billions of cycles per second.

Cache (L2 or L3). A processor uses memory installed in the chip itself to store and speed up operations before utilizing external system RAM. This on-board memory is stored in one or more caches, which are identified L2 or L3. More powerful processors will be equipped with larger caches.

Socket type. CPUs come in different sizes, are identified by the kind of socket they plug into. (For example, Intel's most powerful current chips use the third revision of the LGA 2011 socket.) You'll need this information to determine what motherboard to buy (see the next section).

Manufacturing technology. Every year or two, processors get thinner and more power-efficient. Knowing a chip's manufacturing technology (measured in nanometers, or nm) will give you some insight into its capabilities, but is not strictly necessary.

Cooler. Most processors come with a fan rated for their specific speed and estimated heat output; unless you're planning to overclock your computer or otherwise put it through particularly traumatic paces, you probably don't need to buy another fan or liquid cooling system. (And for that reason, we're not going to dwell on the question here.) But if you do decide to buy a separate one, or if you choose a high-end CPU that doesn't come with its own fan, make sure that the cooler you get is designed for the family of processor you have or are planning to buy.

Motherboard

If the CPU is a computer's brain, the motherboard is its nervous system. Most of your other components will plug into the motherboard, so the one that you use for your build needs to be exactly what you need now, and what you expect to need from it in the future. Here's what to look for:

Socket type. A motherboard's socket type must, must, must match that of the CPU you plan to use in it.

Form factor. Motherboards come in a range of sizes, or form factors, from the tiny Mini ITX to the enormous Extended ATX. For most full-size desktop builds you'll probably want either regular ATX or the somewhat smaller Micro ATX. The form factor you get will dramatically affect both the number of other components you're able to install and what kind of case you're able to install them in (see that section below for more details).

Memory. Be on the lookout for several different attributes of how your motherboard deals with memory. You need to know the memory type and standard, which are usually listed together. For example, if your motherboard supports DDR4 2133 memory, buy that. (Many motherboard manufacturers certify certain brands of memory for use with their boards; look up the motherboard on the Web to find out what's officially supported.) The number of memory slots tells you how many individual modules, or DIMMs, you can buy; you'll also be informed of the maximum memory supported, or the total amount of all the individual DIMMs taken together (such as 32 or 64GB). You may also see motherboards labeled as tri- or quad-channel, which signifies that you can expect a noticeable performance benefit if you fill the correct number of RAM slots. Note: Many times a motherboard will be listed as supporting a number of memory types with the designation "O.C." after them-this refers to memory that is overclocked. If you don't plan on overclocking your memory (which we don't recommend, unless you're an expert or fearless tweaker), you may safely ignore these numbers.

Expansion slots. The most common motherboard form factors, ATX and Micro ATX, will have between four and seven PCI Express (PCIe) slots, for adding expansion cards. These may use either the current top-end standard, PCIe 3.0, or the older (and slower) 2.0, with designations based on the size of the slots and the number of PCIe lanes they use. The longest slots are x16, though some that look identical may run at x8 or x4; in addition, there are visibly smaller x1 slots. On a Mini ITX motherboard, however, you should only expect one x16 slot.

Storage. SATA remains the most common interface for connecting internal storage devices to your motherboard. The newest version of the standard, SATA 3, supports data transfer rates of up to 6Gbps. You may also find some other interfaces; M.2, in which a flash-based storage module plugs directly into a thin slot on your motherboard, is becoming increasingly popular, for example. Regardless, you'll want to have enough of the right kind of ports for whatever storage you want to buy. (Learn more about that in the Storage section, below.)

Onboard technologies. Just about every motherboard will feature onboard stereo sound and Ethernet, most will include integrated Wi-Fi and/or Bluetooth, and many will also include ports for taking advantage of processors' integrated video capabilities. (You won't find the last on motherboards for higher-end processors, which are designed for use with discrete video cards, and you may ignore these ports on lower-end or midrange motherboards if you plan on installing a standalone video card.) It's worth checking the specs so that you don't forego something you really want.

Video card support. Think you may want to concoct an ultra-powerful gaming machine with more than one graphics card? Even if you have enough slots to hold multiple cards, you're out of luck if your motherboard isn't designed for use with either Nvidia's SLI technology or AMD's CrossFireX, so verify that first.

Memory, Video Card, and Storage

Memory

Your computer's random-access memory, or RAM, is where data is stored while the processor is waiting to crunch the numbers. More is pretty much always better, within the boundaries of your budget and your system (if yours is 32-bit, it's limited to about 4GB; 64-bit PCs can handle up to 192GB, which is much more than any consumer desktop motherboard can currently hold), though if you use simple applications and aren't an avid multitasker, you can get away with less. The nice thing about building your own PC: If it turns out you need more, memory is one of the easiest things to add. Here's what to look for:

Type. Memory will only be useful to you if the motherboard supports it; read that section for more information. Each new standard offers some additional speed and features, but not in all situations, so don't feel as if DDR4 RAM, rather than DDR3, is an automatic must for you if you're building from scratch. Just remember that RAM is not backward-compatible, so DDR4 will not work in a DDR3 slot. The higher the number in a memory's standard, such as DDR4 2666, the faster it generally is. Faster memory designed for the same slot type will work in a slower slot, but save yourself some money and don't leave any performance on the table you don't have to.

Capacity. DIMMs for each memory type come in a variety of capacities, so you can buy what you need and can afford. It's best to buy at least one chip for each memory channel (three for triple-channel, four for quad-channel), and memory often comes in "kits" to make that easier; and we don't recommend mixing and matching capacities within any one build. If you see a capacity listed as something like "8GB (2 x 4GB)," this means the total amount of RAM is divided up between a number of chips (in this case, two DIMMs of 4GB each, for a total of 8GB).

Memory timings. Most memory specs include a series of four numbers, separated by hyphens, that provide an at-a-glance way to tell how speedy the memory is. The first number, CAS latency (the amount of time between when the memory controller requests data and when it's available) is the most significant, and may be listed by itself. The lower the numbers, the faster you can expect the memory to be.

Other specs. Error Checking and Correction (ECC) memory is intended for high-performance systems such as workstations and servers; you will need a motherboard that specifically supports this type of memory if you want to use it (and most ordinary users won't need to). Voltage numbers give you specific information about how the memory uses power, with higher voltages typically meaning speedier RAM-but this is something only overclockers will really need to know.

Video Card

Though integrated graphics systems are more commonplace today than ever, even the best versions in the latest processors can't deliver what you can get from even a lower-end discrete video card. If you're into gaming of any sort, a video card is a must, but any programs that are designed to take advantage of graphics hardware acceleration, from Windows to Photoshop and beyond, can benefit from offloading video processing to a dedicated subsystem. Unless you're blasting out a tight-budget build, there's no good reason to forego a video card. Here's what to look for:

Processing cores. Like your CPU, your graphics processing unit (or GPU) has contains multiple processing cores exclusively for churning out graphics. The more of them your video card has, the better a performer it's likely to be (and the more it's likely to cost). AMD calls its versions "stream processors" and Nvidia has named its own "CUDA cores"-note that although you can't directly compare the two types, the numbers of cores are good indicators of relative power within each company's chipset families.

Clock rates. As with your CPU, this is the speed at which the graphics processing unit, or GPU, runs. It's not unusual to see cards with fewer processing cores and faster clock speeds, or vice versa, so try to find the best blend for the amount of money you have to spend.

Memory. Video memory (VRAM) serves a function for video cards that's similar to what ordinary RAM does for the rest of your computer: It stores the data until it's needed for processing. This matters less if you're playing at lower resolutions, where there aren't as many pixels and other visual effects to be wrangled, but, as a rule of thumb-as with RAM-more tends to be better. (You'll see 4GB or more on the highest-end video cards.) Also pay attention to the memory clock speed, which can also function into performance.

Ports. A video card isn't worth much if it's not hooked up to at least one monitor. Look at the list of its ports to determine whether your card outputs to DVI, HDMI, and DisplayPort; if you'll be using your computer with a monitor you already own, you'll want to know ahead of time whether you'll need to buy an adapter. Another good idea is verifying how many monitors the card can drive at once: It may not be the same as the card's number of output ports.

Power requirements. Video cards are among the most power-hungry PC components you can buy, so know what you need to get from your power supply. Usually there will be a minimum value you should respect, and you'll also be told the specific number of PCIe power connectors (six- or eight-pin) you'll need in order to get the card to work, as well as the number of amps needed from the power supply (see that section below for more information about this).

Storage

Even if you love smartphones and tablets, you have to admit that storage is one of their biggest weaknesses: You seldom get that much, and you're pretty much stuck with whatever you buy. When you're building your own PC, that's not a problem-it's easy to add or change more pretty much anytime you want. But even if you don't have to worry too much about capacity, you need to make a few other crucial decisions. Here's what to look for:

Hard drive or SSD? The average price of solid-state drives (SSDs), which store data on flash memory, has dropped a lot in recent years, making them a better choice than ever to add to your computer if speed in booting up and accessing files is what you crave. But by and large, they're still punishingly expensive on a cost-per-gigabyte basis compared with traditional, slower mechanical hard drives: It's not hard to track down a 3TB hard drive that costs $100 or less, whereas consumer-oriented SSDs top out at about 1TB-and those will run you $350 at an absolute minimum. Because of this, the classic advice is still the best: Pair a lower-capacity solid-state drive (256GB or so is a good compromise), for installing Windows and your most important programs, with one or more spinning hard drives for housing all your data. Another option may be a hybrid drive, which stores most of your data on an inexpensive hard drive but uses a tiny amount of flash memory for things you use most frequently; this can save you a lot of money, but because of how the underlying technology functions, the performance will not always match what you get from a true hard drive-SSD pairing.

Interface. Serial ATA (SATA) connections are still common, especially for hard drives, and your motherboard will undoubtedly have plenty. But for major speed advantages, you can also buy newer SSDs on PCIe cards that install directly into your motherboard's expansion slots and use that much faster bus. Other interfaces, such as mSATA and M.2 are less common, but you may want to take a page from space-saving smaller systems and consider M.2 (which plugs directly into a motherboard port) for use as a boot drive. Just be certain your motherboard supports whatever standard you intended to use.

Form factor. This refers to the size of the drive, with hard drives coming in 3.5- or 2.5-inch varieties, and SSDs coming in 2.5- or 1.8-inch models. For desktop computers, form factor doesn't always matter much, though you'll need to have the right kind of space in your case for whatever drive you choose.

Hard drive specs. A couple of extra details may appear on hard drive listings that you won't see when researching SSDs. Most consumer hard drives spin at either 7,200 or 10,000rpm, with the speedier drives costing more and using more energy. You can also select the amount of cache memory your hard drive uses (up to 128MB) to boost performance. This information is useful for detail-oriented purists, but is of limited use if you don't plan to use your hard drive as your boot drive (which, as mentioned above, we don't recommend).

Is optical optional? Now that most software is purchased and delivered digitally, an optical drive may not be a necessity for you, particularly if you don't plan to install a lot of older programs. If you don't want an optical drive, you'll need another strategy for installing the operating system; use another computer to create an installation USB key, for example. If you do want a drive, it may be worth it to splurge a bit on a Blu-ray burner (they cost around $100, or about five times what you'd pay for a DVD burner), so you can watch high-definition movies you may have hanging around.

Power Supplies and Case

Power Supplies

You can buy the best components to be found on the Web, and they'll be useless if you can't actually turn your computer on once you've finished building it. A power supply unit (or PSU) may be the most unappreciated of components, but without it, nothing else will work, so don't forget to give it the thought it deserves. Here's what to look for:

Maximum power. This is the highest amount of power the PSU is capable of directing to your components. The less complicated or intense the build, the lower a number you can get away with-for most people, 500 to 750 watts will be fine. But if you're using high-end parts, particularly energy-sucking video cards (or more than one), your power needs could raise to 1,000 watts or even more. Checking your components' power usage or thermal design power (TDP) is vital-get a power supply that's too weak, and your computer may not even turn on.

Voltage rails. Simply put, voltage rails are like individual power circuits within your PSU, with each of the major varieties (+3.3V, +5V, and +12V) powering different kinds of components. In most cases, the most important one to pay attention to is the +12V rail, as that's what will be driving your video cards; one of these capable of supplying 34 to 40 amps should be enough for the most powerful cards you can currently buy, and is likely to be more reliable than using multiple +12V rails for the same job.

Form factor. Like other components we've covered here, power supplies come in a variety of form factors that determine the kinds of hardware you can use with them, and under what circumstances. The most common for mainstream motherboards right now is the ATX12V, but you may also see others (such as EPS12V), and you may need to buy a smaller power supply if you're building a system too miniature to fit a full-size ATX power supply, say.

Connectors. Power supplies come in two varieties: one in which all the cables are preattached, and another (called modular) that lets you connect only the cables you need. In either case, your PSU still has to have the right connectors, whether six- and eight-pin for video cards, SATA for newer hard drives and SSDs, or Molex for older drives and other devices. The good news is that if you don't have all the connectors you need, adapters aren't too tough to find. Still, it's easiest to verify that you have what you need ahead of time; the PCIe connectors for the video card are most likely to trip you up, so find out what your card needs so your PSU can supply power in the proper way.

Case

Yes, you'll need a case to house all the other components you buy, and that's what we'll focus on here. But remember that it's also the outward expression of your computer's personality-and your own. How big should it be? What shape? What color? Do you want a window? Make these decisions, too, so your final computer will look every bit as good as it runs. But as far as the necessary specs, here's what to look for:

Form factor. Though a case can basically be as big or as small as you want it to be, what matters more is which form factor of motherboard it's designed for. One intended for ATX motherboards will have room for the board and the proper number of expansion slots; a Micro ATX motherboard is smaller and will have fewer slots, though the case itself may not necessarily be smaller; and smaller form factors still, such as Mini ITX, may require other adjustments to your component choices (less storage, for example, or maybe a smaller power supply). Many larger ATX cases can also be used with motherboards of other form factors; as long as yours is supported, you should be fine.

Front-panel ports and controls. You'll definitely want to access all of your computer's features, and its front-panel ports are the way to do that. Every case will have Power and Reset buttons and an activity light, and most will also have headphone and microphone jacks and USB ports; some may even have fan or lighting controls. Just remember that you'll need to connect any front-panel ports to the motherboard, so cross-comparing those specs ahead of time is a good idea.

Drive bays. You'll need someplace to store your hard drives and SSDs, and any other devices you may be using. Generally speaking, cases may have one or more 5.25-inch external bays for optical drives other enthusiast gadgets, and multiple bays for 3.5- or 2.5-inch hard drives and SSDs. (Some cases also have externally accessible 3.5-inch bays for easily swapping hard drives in and out.) The smallest cases, though, can have very few of these, so pay attention, or risk not being able to perform necessary upgrades later.

Fans and filters. Cooling is one of a case's most important functions. Your case will probably come with one or more intake or exhaust fans, and have room for adding more (in several sizes, from 80mm on up) if you want them. Removable filters, which capture dust to keep your PC's interior tidy and are easy to clean, are also common on higher-end cases.

Putting It All Together

Putting It All Together

Once you've decided on and purchased your parts, it's time to do the really exciting/fun/scary thing: assembling them all. Believe it or not, this is less difficult than it may sound, especially now that tool-free cases are de rigueur and you won't need your Phillips screwdriver for installing much more than the power supply and the motherboard. But doing things in the proper order will help out a lot.

What follows is the basic procedure we used while building a higher-end system for testing hardware here in PC Labs. It illustrates most of the points you'll encounter in your building, though the details will differ a bit depending on the components you buy. The basic techniques, however, seldom vary much from build to build.
1. Get Prepared
Just as a chef wouldn't fire up the stove without the mise en place ready to go, neither should you. Unpack all your components, remove the packing material from them, and arrange them cleanly on a large, flat surface. The floor will absolutely work if that's all you have, but try to avoid doing it on a carpet-static electricity remains a major danger for electronics, and frying your system before you even get to use it is one shock you don't want. (If you're concerned, you can use an antistatic wrist strap or ground yourself by touching some bare metal, such as the frame of your empty computer case, before you start working with anything else.) Also, open up the main side panel of your case, because that's where your build will begin.
2. Install the Power Supply
You won't need the power supply until much later in the build process, but you're better off installing it first because once the other components are in place, it becomes a lot more difficult to put the supply where it needs to go. Position the PSU in the bay with the fan pointing downward (many cases will have a vent there) and the screw holes lining up with the holes on the back of the case. Secure the power supply with the provided screws, then drape the cables over the side of the case to keep them out of the way while you work on everything else.

Most of the time, it's going to be easiest to install some components on the motherboard before you put the motherboard in the case-you'll have a lot more room to work that way. The processor definitely qualifies for this treatment. Begin by opening the socket. If you're using an AMD CPU, just lift the lever to release the locking mechanism; you'll also need to do this for Intel chips, but notice that a metal cover will also secure the chip in place, and that needs to be lifted as well. (On higher-end Intel chips using the LGA 2011 socket, two levers hold down the socket cover, and you'll need to lift those one at a time.) Once the socket is opened, use the arrows printed on the socket and chip to align the CPU correctly, then lower it gently into the socket. (With AMD processors, the pins are on the CPU, so they'll need to all go down into the proper holes and the chip sits flat before proceeding.) Once the chip is in place, secure the socket again by reversing the procedure you used to open it.

4. Install the CPU Cooler

Some fans and coolers may come with the necessary thermal compound already applied. If yours doesn't, squeeze a small dab onto the center of the top of the processor; you can spread it around evenly with something like a business card if you want, but this isn't strictly necessary. With most stock coolers, you just align the support posts for the cooler around the socket and secure them in place; each cooler is slightly different in this regard, so refer to its instructions for exact directions on doing this with the model you have. If you're using a liquid cooler (such as the one shown in this paragraph) or another aftermarket cooler, you may need to install mounting hardware on the underside of the motherboard or configure a universal support mechanism for use with your specific motherboard and processor-either is another good reason to install the cooler while the motherboard is still outside the case.

The RAM bays are opened with the little clips at either end (some motherboards use only one set of clips, but most have two)-just push them down. Align the notch in the memory connector to the raised "key" in the RAM bay (you could do damage to the DIMM if it's not oriented correctly), then push the DIMM firmly into place. When it's correct, the clips should rotate back up and lock the memory in. Repeat with your other chips. Note: If you're using multiple-channel memory, the DIMMs should be installed in the proper channels if you want the according speed boost. It's pretty easy if, say, you have a quad-channel board and only four memory bays, but it might be more confusing in other situations, though the bays are often color-coded to clear things up. Consult your motherboard's manual if you're not sure.

Each motherboard comes with a specially designed I/O plate that labels each of its ports and helps close off the back of the computer from dust and other intrusions; you don't absolutely need it, but it's a really good thing to have. Align the plate right-side up (you may want to compare it to the back of the motherboard, just to be safe), place it inside the wide space at the rear of the case, and push on it-hard-until it locks into place on all four edges.

Finishing Touches

Although some cases come with preinstalled motherboard risers, which prevent the board from directly touching the metal of the case, most don't. To find out where the risers should go if you're not sure, place the motherboard in the case and see which holes in it correspond with which holes in the case, then screw the risers that came with your case into those holes. (Some cases have the holes needed for the various form factors marked so you won't have to either do this or guess.) Once the risers are in, tighten each of them as much as you can. Guide the motherboard gently into the case, pushing its rear-panel ports through the correct openings in the I/O plate, and then laying the motherboard on top of the risers so you can see them through the screw holes. Insert and screw in half way all the screws; once they're in, and you've verified that the motherboard's position is correct, go back and screw them all in the rest of the way. Be careful not to overtighten the screws.

The video card plugs into the longest (x16) PCIe slot on the motherboard, the first in the series of slots. Open that slot on the case, either by unscrewing the cover blocking it or utilizing your case's tool-free mechanism. Line up the card's backplate with the slot and the gold connectors (avoid touching them) with the slot itself. Then push the card down until it clicks. Secure the card in its position using whatever method your case employs. Note: If you're using an extra-wide video card or multiple video cards, you'll need to open more than one slot.

Because every case is different, it's tough to provide a single blanket explanation for how to install the specific drives for your build. Most 5.25-inch drives, if you're using them, will either screw in place or use a simple tool-free system on one or both sides of the drive cage. It's not uncommon for 3.5-inch drives to install using caddies or trays, though they may also screw into a smaller cage below the 5.25-inch one (almost always at the top of the drive well). And many of those same trays will also have space for 2.5-inch drives, though some of these drives come with adapters that let them work easily in 3.5-inch bays, or other slots (such as on the floor of the case or beneath the motherboard tray) may be provided for installing them. Other drive form factors, such as mSATA or M.2, install into special slots on the motherboard itself; and still other drives can be placed in PCIe slots. The manuals for your motherboard and any unusual drives will have the information you need about this.
10. Connect Your Cables
With all your hardware installed, it's time to start linking everything together. Run data cables from your drives that need them to the appropriate ports on the motherboard. (SATA ports are often located along the edge of the motherboard.) Ensure that everything that needs power gets it: Connect the appropriate cables from the power supply to the motherboard (you'll probably need two for this: one terminating in a 24-pin plug, another in a four- or eight-pin plug), to your video card (one or more of the six- or eight-pin cables, probably labeled PCIe), and to your drives (the connectors are thin and black). For bonus points, route your interior cables through the holes in the inside of the case and around the back of the motherboard if you can; most non-budget cases today are designed to facilitate this. Yes, the inside of your computer will look better (nice if you have a window), but you'll also be improving airflow, and thus the way your computer deals with heat.
11. Connect Your Wires
The final step in making it possible to interact with all the various parts of your computer-and seeing that they operate correctly-is connecting all the wires. Connect the power wires from your CPU cooler and any case fans to the proper pins on the motherboard; sets are clearly marked for "CPU Fan," "Chassis Fan," or "Aux Fan." Then connect the wires from the front panel to the appropriate headers: USB will be common here (note that the 2.0 and 3.0 standards' headers look different), as will the headphone and microphone jacks (which will connect via the same audio header), but you may have other esoteric ones to deal with as well. Last, but not least, link the bevy of tiny front-panel wires linked to your activity lights and Power and Reset buttons to the pins on the motherboard. These are almost always labeled on the board itself, but they can be hard to see, and it can be difficult to know which of the two-pin connectors goes where. Again, consult your motherboard manual if you have any questions as to what goes where-you won't do any permanent damage if you screw this up, but your buttons might not work and your lights might not flash correctly, and that can sometimes be even more annoying.
12. Start Using Your PC
That's it. You'll still need to install Windows and software, and tweak the BIOS or UEFI settings to your liking, so there's a fair amount of work yet to be performed. But remember that this doesn't have to be the end of the process. Want more speed? Swap out the processor for a faster one. Tackle more demanding projects by upping the RAM. Make your games more exciting by replacing your video card with the latest and greatest model. Add another hard drive or two or three. The choice is yours, and you can change your mind at any time-and upgrading individual parts (aside from the motherboard) is invariably easier than starting from scratch. In any event, rest easy knowing that you're doing it all on a PC you built especially for you, and that will always reflect your needs and desires in a way no tablet or laptop easily can. Sure, maybe a desktop is limited in some ways in 2015, but you'll have more freedom than with any other setup. And don't be surprised if you find that the satisfaction you derive from putting it all together yourself, is well worth the loss in mobility.

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Computing has changed a lot in the last decade. For many, smartphones have become the go-to method of playing games, staying in touch with friends, and browsing the Web for answers to spur-of-the-moment trivia questions and viewing cat pictures. When you need something more powerful, or with a bigger screen, you might reach for a tablet.

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Have you ever thought about building your own computer? Actually buying a motherboard and a case along with all the supporting components and assembling the whole thing yourself?

Here are three reasons why you might want to consider taking the plunge:

1. You'll be able to create a custom machine that exactly matches your needs.

2. It will be much easier to upgrade your machine in the future because you'll understand it completely.

3. You may be able to save some money.

And, if you've never done it before, you'll definitely learn a lot about computers.

In this article, we'll take you through the entire process of building a computer. You'll learn how to choose the parts you'll use, how to buy them and how to put them all together. When you're done, you'll have exactly the machine that you need.

The first step in building a computer is deciding what type of machine you want to build. Do you want a really inexpensive computer for the kids to use? A small, quiet machine to use as a media computer in the living room? A high-end gaming computer? Or maybe you need a powerful machine with a lot of disk space for video editing. The possibilities are endless, and the type of machine you want to build will control many of the decisions you make down the line. Therefore, it's important to know exactly what you want the machine to accomplish from the start.

Let's imagine that you want to build a powerful video-editing computer. You want it to have a quad-core CPU, lots of RAM and at least 2 terabytes of disk space. You also want to have FireWire and USB 3.0 ports on the motherboard. Look for a motherboard that supports:

Quad-core CPUs (either Intel or AMD)

At least 8GB of high-speed RAM

Four (or more) SATA hard drives

FireWire connections (possibly in both the front and back of the case)

USB 3.0 ports

Then it all needs to go in a case with enough space to hold multiple hard disks and enough air -flow to keep everything cool.

With any computer you build, knowing the type of machine you want to create can really help with decision-making.

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Have you ever thought about building your own computer? Actually buying a motherboard and a case ­along with all the supporting components and assembling the whole thing yourself? Here are three reasons why you might want to consider taking the plunge: You'll be able to create a custom machine that exactly matches your needs.

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A desktop computer can be a smart and ergonomic pick if you're setting up a home office and aren't worried much about mobility. Staring into a monitor puts less strain on your neck than staring down into a laptop. You also generally get more power per dollar spent with a desktop than you do with a laptop.

Some models come with a built-in display, and others require you to supply your own. Luckily, you can find good computer monitors for reasonable prices. In fact, while all-in-one models with a screen tend to be aesthetically pleasing and take up less desk space, they can cost a lot more than buying a desktop computer and monitor separately.

Mac or PC? It's really up to you. You'll find models on both platforms that score well in our labs. They'll support the most popular software options, too, from Adobe Photoshop to Chrome, Slack to Zoom. But there are benefits to pairing a Mac with an iPhone or an Android phone with a PC. You may be able to answer a text message with your keyboard, for example, or share copy-paste data between a computer and a smartphone.

Desktops generally offer better bang for your buck compared with laptops, delivering more power and performance per dollar spent.

Depending on the model you choose, you may have to supply your own mouse, keyboard, and monitor. In that case, you might want to consider buying an ergonomic mouse and keyboard. And given the rise of video chatting, you may also need a webcam because freestanding monitors typically don't come with one built in.

Choosing a Processor and an OS

Speed matters. Processors with multiple cores can process more data simultaneously.

Clock speed, measured in gigahertz, along with the number of cores and other factors, determines how quickly a processor can process information. Many processors can up the speed a bit for a brief time to yield maximum performance. Generally, within a processor family, the higher the clock speed, the faster the processor. Clock speeds typically start at around 1 GHz for a mobile processor. Speeds can exceed 5 GHz for a desktop processor.

If you're looking for a very basic or budget computer to browse the web, check email, and work on Office documents, basically every processor on the market should be sufficient.

If you plan to watch high-definition videos or play mainstream games, the Intel Core i5 and AMD Ryzen 5 line of processors should be your starting point.

How Much Memory?
The more memory a computer has, the faster it is, up to a point. Memory is measured in gigabytes. On desktops, 8GB has become common, with 16GB or more found on higher-end devices. Unless you regularly have multiple demanding apps open at the same time, 8GB should be your target.

Operating System
Windows 11, the latest version of Microsoft's long-running operating system, should be preinstalled on most PCs. If it's not, it's a free upgrade from Windows 10. Windows 11 adds a refreshed user interface (which now resembles macOS) and deeper integration with OneDrive, Microsoft's cloud storage service, and is otherwise very similar to Windows 10.

A huge assortment of software can be downloaded for the platform from Microsoft's app store and developer websites. Games tend to debut on Windows before making their way to macOS, for instance. Microsoft releases free updates throughout the year, adding features, fixing bugs, etc.

Macs can be a little more expensive than comparable PCs, but they're less prone to most viruses and spyware (in part because there are more Windows PCs out there than Macs, making them a bigger target for hackers). The latest version of macOS is called Monterey and was released in fall 2021. Apple also releases several macOS updates free throughout the year.

Desktop Computers Ratings

All About Drives, the Battery, and More

Solid state drives: SSDs are faster than traditional hard drives in part because they don't have any moving parts. An SSD can offer a great performance boost to a computer that's outfitted with a traditional hard drive, which has a spinning hard disk and uses more power than an SSD. In general, Consumer Reports recommends solid state drives over hard drives.

Hard Drives
Hard-drive sizes are measured in gigabytes and terabytes; they commonly range from 250GB to more than 1TB.

Speed is equally important and is measured in rpm (revolutions per minute). A slow hard drive will take longer to start up the operating system and programs, and to complete tasks (such as installing programs or scanning your hard drive for viruses).

For best performance, get a desktop with at least a 7,200-rpm hard drive.

Optical Drives
If you need a CD or DVD reader to, say, access old files or watch a movie that's not available on a streaming service, you can find an external optical drive that plugs into a USB port for around $20 to $30.

Graphics Adapter and Graphics Memory
Also known as the video card, graphics processing unit (GPU), or graphics card, this hardware is responsible for drawing what you see on your screen. Graphics processing comes in two basic flavors: It can be integrated into the same chip that's running the rest of the computer, or it can run on a discrete piece of equipment.

Most computers have integrated graphics. This has usually been the less expensive and lower-performing option-fine for most tasks but not for serious gaming. If you play mainstream and extreme games with all the visual effects turned on or if you edit video, especially high-definition and ultra-high def (4K), you'll want discrete graphics. Light video editing and gaming, and all other typical computer tasks, will do fine with integrated graphics.

Desktop Computers Ratings

Although most desktop computers come with a basic, predefined set of features, that doesn't mean you don't have choices.

Recently Tested Computers

BEST TIME TO BUY: August, September, November, December Do you know when is the best time to buy Computers? Learn more

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Best Desktop Computer Buying Guide - Consumer Reports

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A desktop computer can be a smart and ergonomic pick if you're setting up a home office and aren't worried much about mobility. Staring into a monitor puts less strain on your neck than staring down into a laptop. You also generally get more power per dollar spent with a desktop than you do with a laptop.

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Today's podcast comes courtesy of the Tech Talker Facebook page ! Reader Sanaz (better known to her fans as the savvy House Call Doctor ) wrote in asking about how to pick out a new laptop. Thanks Sanaz! What a great question!

Today I will be tackling the topic of how to look for and buy a new computer. First off, if you haven't listened to my episode on what's inside your computer , go check it out now as it will give you a much better idea about the some of the things I will be mentioning later in this episode. Go ahead, I'll wait...>

Where Do I Start?

All right, so your current computer is a hunk of junk and you've been putting off upgrading to a new model for way too long. Well, let me break this decision process down for you to make it easy. The key is to make a list of what you'll be doing with your computer. Ask yourself these questions:

Will you be doing a lot of video and picture editing?

Would you like to be able to take your computer everywhere you go?

Will you be playing a lot of video games or just browsing the web?

Will you need lots of storage space on the hard drive ?

Do you need to install many different programs?

Will you watch a lot of videos or movies?

Actually writing out how you will be using your new computer will help you to outline the features you want and more importantly, the price range you'll fall into.

What's the Right Computer for Me?

Now that you are armed with your list of requirements, let's decide on the form factor of your new computer:

If you're a very casual user who wants to check email, browse the internet, and watch a YouTube video every now and then, you might want to look at something like an iPad. It's small, light, portable, functional, user-friendly, and really cool!

If you're looking for portability, battery life, and a full operating system, you may want to go for a netbook or a MacBook Air. Sometimes the mobile devices like popular tablets may not support some of the software you need; netbooks and the MacBook Air give you great portability but have much more functionality then tablets and smartphones.

If you'll be doing some more intensive work like video editing, but still want to remain portable, and have a larger screen, then a laptop is probably best for you.

If you want a huge screen, multiple drives and much more expandability, you're probably looking at a desktop.

Phew! Okay so now that you've nailed down the form factor, you've got to make the decision whether you want an Apple operating system or Microsoft's operating system as your base. I'll go much more in depth about this decision in a future episode, but making that call will narrow down your options by a wide margin.

Check Out the Specifications

The next step is checking out all the specifications. This is undoubtedly my favorite part of the process, but I realize that for many people this is probably the reason they have held off so long on picking out a new computer. So how many cores, bits, gigabytes, and pixels do you need? Which drive should you get? How much RAM will you need?

Well let's knock out the easy one. Check out my episode on solid state drives versus hard disk drives to see the pros and cons of each. Once you're more familiar with these 2 options, you can decide on the right type of hard drive and the cost point that works for you.

Remember: Drive size is measured in gigabytes. And if you're going for a SSD, opt for nothing lower than 60GB. If you're choosing a hard disk drive, I would get at least 500GB. This will give you room to expand in the future.

Next is , or your computer's short-term memory. RAM is fairly cheap and it's something that can almost always be added later into a system. For today's computers, I recommend 4GB for good performance, but you can always cut back if you're going to be using a smaller computer like a netbook.

Next, you will look at screen size and battery life. These are pretty much going to be based on user preference. Do you like a big screen, or a small one? But ultimately, your decision will come down to cost.

Now, the thing that gets most people when picking out a computer is the type of processor and the amount of cores available. A core is another processing unit on a computer, and it's rare nowadays to find any single-core processors. Most are dual-core. Basically, the more cores, the better at multitasking a computer will be, and the higher the number of gigahertz the faster your computer will be. Right now, I have a laptop running with a dual-core, 2.6 ghz processor and it works great for videos, multitasking, and some light gaming.

However, for the standard compute user, speed is more relevant then the number of cores. But speed can also vary widely, anywhere from 2-4 gigahertz. This term gigahertz refers to how many calculations per second the processor can crank out. So 2 gigahertz is about 2 billion calculations per second. The processor is something that I would recommend investing the most cash into. If you're buying a laptop, it would be extremely difficult to replace this piece after the fact. And even for desktops, I wouldn't recommend the average computer user to go rooting inside their machine. My rule of thumb here is to get the best processor in your price range, and to even consider scaling back on your hard drive and memory so as to have more money to put towards a better processor. The big name brands are AMD and Intel. If you see something that says i3, i5, or i7 then this is an Intel chip.

Here's a helpful link to compare AMD and Intel processors.

Hop in and Go for a Ride

All right, you're through the worst of it now. You know what form factor you want and what specs you're interested in comparing. Now it's time to test drive. So go check out your local computer store and try out some computers. See how long each one takes to start up, open applications, and see how they perform in general. I've tried a bunch of computers that seemed amazing on paper, but just didn't cut it when I actually put hands to keyboard. And the most important thing here is making sure that you like how the hardware works. My current laptop has a track pad that I didn't like at first but absolutely drives me nuts now. I thought I would grow used to it, but I should have known better. If I didn't like it then, I would hate it later on. Even if you are looking to purchase your computer online, I would still go check out some physical models because you never know what feature they may have that will be important to you after you try it.

Finally, it's time to compare prices. This will be different for everyone, but some great sites for computer comparison shopping are , TigerDirect , and . And if you're looking to buy a computer at a store, I suggest Costco because of their stellar return policy.

Here are your 5 Quick and Dirty steps to picking out an awesome computer:

1. Make a list of what you will use your new computer for.

2. Decide which form factor works best for you (tablet, netbook, laptop, or desktop).

3. Compare specs of different models.

4. Do some testing to make sure you're comfortable with how the physical hardware looks and feels.

5. Comparison shop online and in store.

This topic is a big one and I realize that many of you will have questions about specific aspects of a computer that I didn't mention in today's episode. If you think I missed something or want me to go into more detail about a certain topic just post it on the Tech Talker Facebook wall or shoot me an email at TechTalker@quickanddirtytips.com!

Until next time, I'm the Tech Talker , keeping technology simple!

Image courtesy of Shutterstock

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Today's podcast comes courtesy of the Tech Talker Facebook page ! Reader Sanaz (better known to her fans as the savvy House Call Doctor ) wrote in asking about how to pick out a new laptop. Thanks Sanaz! What a great question!

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Check it out!

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by Chris Woodford. Last updated: August 29, 2017.

Buying yourself a new computer can be a daunting prospect. There are literally hundreds of different models to choose from and, what's worse, they all look exactly the same! Compare the specifications and you'll find that looks aren't the only thing they have in common: unless you know your Wi-Fi from your Bluetooth and your Linux from your Windows, you'll be hard-pressed to tell one machine from another. It's hardly surprising that most computer buyers make a few feeble attempts to compare a handful of likely contenders and then just pick something more or less at random based on whichever brand sounds most familiar. But isn't there a more scientific approach to parting with your hard-earned cash? The best thing you can do is make a list of all the features that really matter to you, make a shortlist of half a dozen different machines, and then see which machine ticks the most boxes. But whether you go for the scientific approach or just trust your gut, here are some things to think about before you fill your shopping cart and click "checkout."

Photo: How much computer can you get for your money? Desktop or laptop? Laptops are more convenient than desktops if you don't have a lot of room, and use less energy, but they're easier to damage, harder to upgrade, and cost more to repair.

What will you use it for?

This is absolutely the most important question when it comes to buying a new computer. Most home users do little more than browse the Web, send emails, word-process the occasional letter, download MP3 music tracks, and store and process photographs from a digital camera. For basic Internet (email and Web) work and word processing, all you need is a basic computer-you don't need anything fancy and you certainly don't need to worry about getting the very latest model. Processor speeds and hard drive sizes are virtually irrelevant if you'll do nothing but Web browsing and sending emails; even a 10-year-old secondhand laptop may be good enough (though it will struggle to run the latest Web browsers and it may not have things like USB ports and wireless Net access).

If you'll be using your computer to manage music tracks on an iPod (or other MP3 player), the most important thing you need is plenty of hard disk space-but virtually any new computer will have more than you could possibly need. (As a general rule of thumb, I suggest multiply your iPod's storage capacity by 2-3 and aim for a hard drive that size to ensure you have plenty of room for other things.) When it comes to storing videos and digital photographs, storage is rather more of an issue. But even if you buy a computer with a hard disk that turns out to be too small, you can easily add an external drive at relatively low cost to overcome the problem. Alternatively, you can now buy USB flash memory sticks that have as much memory as an average PC had just a few years ago-and they make great portable backups.

In short, as far as most home users are concerned, virtually any new off-the-shelf computer will be able to handle what you want to do. The only exception is people who like to play games (either alone or online). If you plan to do a lot of that, you'll need a computer with a fast processor-and the processor speed will probably override all other considerations. If you're a games player, always buy the fastest machine (the one with the highest processor speed) you can afford.

Laptop, desktop... phone or tablet?

Photo: Do you even need a computer anymore? Most modern websites-including this one-are specifically designed to show optimized mobile versions on smartphones, like this large-screen, high-definition Android "phablet" (a cross between a phone and a tablet).

Laptop computers have become incredibly popular in the last decade. They're brilliant for moving around the house from room to room (sending emails in bed, working in the garden, or wherever you happen to be), especially now wireless Internet access means you can be online at all times without worrying about cables. But there are two key things to remember before you dismiss a desktop out of hand:

1. Laptops are guaranteed to make themselves obsolete every three or four years. Unlike desktop computers, you can't easily upgrade components when you outgrow them or replace them when they fail. You can add more memory easily enough (though there's usually a limit to how much), but you can't add a bigger screen or a new hard drive without quite a lot of hassle.

2. Laptops are much more flimsy (less robust) than desktop machines-ironic, given how they have to put up with more abuse-and expensive to get repaired. In particular, the keyboards on laptop computers are not designed for industrial-strength daily use. You'll soon wear out a laptop's keyboard if you pound it heavily for 8 hours a day and you'll find the cost of replacing it can be about 20-25 percent the cost of a new machine! If, like me, you spend your entire life typing, and you prefer to use a laptop, the best thing to do is to invest in an external USB keyboard (maybe a wireless one for convenience). Plug it into your laptop and use it every time you do a lot of typing. If you spill coffee on an external keyboard or wear it out, it's a mere $10 for a new one; ruin your laptop's built-in keyboard and you could face a bill of $200 or more. If you find an external keyboard means you have to sit too far from the screen to read it properly, buy yourself a stand for the laptop and put the keyboard just underneath it (or use a couple of telephone directories). If you get a small external keyboard, you might find it will perch snugly on top of your laptop's existing keyboard without causing any problems.

Even if you always use your laptop in the same room in your home (mine is permanently sitting on a desk plugged into a printer, external keyboard, and so on), that doesn't necessarily mean a desktop is a better bet. I often work away from home so it's brilliant to be able to unplug the laptop in a couple of minutes and take it with me; I couldn't do that with a desktop. On the other hand, if you organize your files sensibly, you can probably just copy your entire "My documents" folder onto a USB stick and take that with you, and if you use a web-based email service like Gmail or Yahoo!, you don't need to take your laptop with you at all.

On the positive side, laptops use much less energy than desktops, so switching to a laptop is a sensible decision if you care about the planet. According to the EU's Energy Star energy-efficiency labeling scheme, a laptop uses just 50-80 percent of the energy you'd use with a desktop-savings that will really mount up if you use your machine perhaps 8-10 hours a day, 365 days a year, for several years.

A few years ago, all you had to choose between was a laptop and a desktop. Now there are all kinds of mobile devices too-and fast mobile broadband makes it possible to do things online on a mobile almost as quickly as you can on a desktop. If you do a lot of online reading but not a lot of typing, you might find a tablet serves you better than a laptop-and an ebook reader (such as a Kindle) could be even better, since it's likely to have very long battery life. Conversely, if you like to work in all kinds of places around your home and you do type a lot, a tablet might be too annoying (though you can add separate Bluetooth keyboards to many of them, effectively turning them into laptops). If all you want to do is check your emails on the move, do you even need a tablet? Maybe you'd be better off with a high-spec smartphone-particularly the kind of large-screen phone sometimes referred to as a "phablet" (because it's, in effect, half-phone, half-tablet).

The bottom line is that it pays to give some thought to how, where, and when you'll use a computer before you buy it.

CD or DVD?

Most laptops now come with a multi-function audio CD-player, CD-ROM drive, CD rewriter, DVD, and DVD rewriter-so you don't have to worry too much about this. (You can always add an external USB CD or DVD drive if you need to do.) The appearance of Blu-ray drives adds a new complication, but don't worry about them too much unless you're a games player. Most of us can cope with a standard CD/DVD reader and rewriter, which will come with most new desktops and laptops. Compact discs and DVDs are going to be around for a while yet, even though, for a lot of us, it's all about downloading now.

Widescreen?

One area where laptops, in particular, have changed considerably over the last decade is in the size of their LCD screens and their aspect ratio. Older laptops had much squarer screens; the latest laptops have widescreens so you can watch movies from DVDs. Don't worry too much about screen dimensions unless you plan to watch lots of movies on your computer. But if you're planning to do lots of Web work and you're buying a small computer with a tiny screen, bear in mind that many, wider websites will display with scroll bars (only showing part of the screen at a time)-and that can get a bit irritating after a while.

Photo: My last three (Toshiba Satellite Pro) laptops. The 1996 model on the left has a tiny screen and a really chunky (but amazingly robust) case with built-in power supply. This machine was literally built like a tank! In the middle, we have a low-cost Toshiba from 2004. It has a much bigger screen and a huge touchpad and wrist-wrest. The case is also much thinner, but flimsier too. The 2007 model on the right is clearly designed to double as a DVD player. It has a widescreen display and the keyboard wrist area is much smaller. Note that the photos are not taken to the same scale.

Connectivity?

Computers used to be solitary machines you used in the comfort of your own home without worrying about other people; now, thanks to the Internet, and things like Facebook and Twitter, they're a much more social phenomenon than anyone ever expected: 21st-century home computers are more like super-enhanced versions of 20th-century telephones. That's why most computer users now expect their machines to be online the whole time. If you're buying a laptop, and especially if you're getting an older model secondhand, make sure it has a wireless networking (Wi-Fi) card built in so you can use it all around your home (you will need to buy a separate wireless broadband modem/router or a mobile broadband dongle as well). Some laptops still have built-in dial-up modems, but they're much less useful than they were; it's virtually impossible to use the web without broadband these days because most websites are deliberately designed to make use of faster connections.

Photo: If you buy a secondhand laptop and it doesn't have a built-in Wi-Fi card, you can always buy a PCMCIA adapter card (made by companies such as Netgear and Belkin). It's a bit bigger than a credit card and it just slots into the side of the machine. If you're using Windows, the card should install itself automatically. You can buy these cards amazingly cheaply on auction sites.

Buying secondhand

Ten years ago, the smartest way to buy a laptop was to get a two or three year-old secondhand machine at a fraction of the cost of a new model. Having spent a bit of time looking at prices on eBay, I get a sense that you can currently buy a 2-5 year-old secondhand laptop for about a half to a third the price of a new one. Bear in mind the drawbacks of going the secondhand route: you can spend an inordinate amount of time on auction websites checking out the features of secondhand machines and worrying about whether they're still up-to-date enough for your needs, the reliability of the seller, whether the machine is stolen, and all kinds of other things as well. A few years ago, I would have advised students and people on low budgets definitely to buy secondhand; now, it's harder to see a justification for buying secondhand unless you're really pushed for cash. If you're environmentally minded and interested in recycling, it's relatively easy to find refurbished, ex-corporate machines on eBay; you might not save that much on buying a new model, but you'll have the satisfaction that you've saved one more machine from a landfill in India. Laptops are high on the list of items when it comes to auction fraud, so make sure you buy secondhand machines from reputable sources (ex-demo or reconditioned models are sometimes available from official dealers).

Windows, Mac, or Linux?

Photo: A version of Linux called Ubuntu is the third most popular operating system after Windows and the Mac operating system. Once it's up and running, it looks and works (to an end user) in much the same way as those others. Fixing technical problems is more of a challenge, however.

A few years ago, no one seriously considered buying anything other than a Windows PC. Apple Macintosh machines were the preserve of graphic designers and people in the creative world, but for everyone else there was only one way to go: Microsoft. Following the rise of the Internet (and the iPhone), things have changed considerably: Macintosh computers are now more affordable and more compatible with Windows PCs than they used to be. If all you plan to do is surf the Web and write the occasional letter or essay, it doesn't matter whether you use a Windows PC or a Mac. If you prefer the smart and stylish Steve Jobs vision to the geeky utilitarian approach personified by Bill Gates, you can plump for a Mac with no qualms-or fear.

Over the last few years, the appearance of Linux (a freely available "open-source" operating system that shares advantages of both Windows and Mac) has given computer buyers something extra to think about. The beauty of Linux is that it costs little or nothing so a computer that ships with a Linux operating system can be considerably cheaper than the same model shipping with Windows. That's one reason why netbooks (small-scale laptops like the Asus Eee PC) are sold at such low prices. Although Linux is much more affordable than Windows, you might find problems making peripherals (printers, scanners, webcams, and so on) work correctly, though this is less of a problem than it used to be.

If you're wondering which operating system to use, it might be worth bearing in mind what's running on your smartphone. An Apple desktop computer will be a bit more compatible with an iPhone, for example, and synchronizing your music library is a little bit easier too, because iTunes runs on both platforms. But it's relatively easy to use any kind of desktop with any kind of smartphone. I used to run a Windows desktop and an iPhone, for example; now I have a Linux desktop and an Android phone. You can reasonably expect everything to work with anything-and most of the time, you won't be disappointed.

In summary

Still confused? It's simpler than it looks:

If you're a basic home user and you'll be Web surfing, sending emails, writing letters, and storing photos, almost any off-the-shelf computer will be fine for your needs. Don't worry too much about processor speeds or hard drive space.

If you'll be storing lots of photos or music tracks, make sure you have plenty of hard drive space.

If you're a games player, you'll need a machine with a fast processor.

If your machine will be used all round the home by different members of your family, in different rooms, a laptop with wireless Internet is a good choice.

If you work from home and plan to use a computer all day long, a desktop is a better bet than a laptop-or use a laptop with a plug-in keyboard (and possibly plug-in screen as well).

If your computer hasn't got exactly the features you want, don't worry. Virtually all machines have USB ports (for plugging in extra equipment). Simply buy yourself an external mouse, keyboard, hard drive, webcam (or whatever), and plug it in.

If you're on a tight budget, consider a secondhand or reconditioned machine. Be sure to buy it from a reputable source. Consider whether the money you're saving is really worth the extra worry and hassle.

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by Chris Woodford. Last updated: August 29, 2017. Buying yourself a new computer can be a daunting prospect. There are literally hundreds of different models to choose from and, what's worse, they all look exactly the same!

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Buying a new laptop or desktop PC can be quite confusing. Many people find it difficult to compare prices, features, processor types, etc to find the right choice in accordance with their requirements. In this post, we will tell you the top 10 things to consider before buying a PC.

10. Usability

It is important that you first consider the tasks that you will be performing on your PC. If you wish to buy a computer for simply browsing the internet and using some online services than it might be better to buy a single core computer which satisfies your minimum requirements. On the contrary, if you require using it for heavy video editing and professional work, then it might be better to buy a system that has enhanced multimedia options.

9. Price

This brings us to our next consideration of price. There might be some very fancy features that you want in your new PC. However, if you don't have the cash to pay for let's say a graphics card with 1GB memory, then you might be better off choosing suitable alternatives.

8. Operating System Type.

Users with minimum requirements may be better off buying a Windows Starter or Home Premium version e.g. of Windows 7. For users who wish to take advantage of more enhanced features and require more effective tools such as connecting their PC to a domain are naturally better off buying a Professional or Ultimate Edition. Having said that the cost of a Windows 7 Ultimate Edition can be as much as 219$.

7. Size

Some people prefer buying larger laptops for a better display screen, whereas others prefer smaller and more portable sizes. If you are setting up a server which will be placed in a server room then size considerations will not matter much as large servers with multiple SCSI drives are normally quite big. Whereas, for people with weak eye sights a laptop with a larger display screen might be worth the price.

6. Peripherals

Peripheral devices such as printers, scanners, etc can significantly increase or reduce your price for buying a new PC. It might be better off buying a system with a DVD combo drive if you do not require writing data to DVDs.

5. Brand

Some brands offer better warranties, whereas others offer software packages that come with the system. For example, a Dell laptop with the same specifications may be cheaper than a Sony Vio. The reason is that Sony provides many of its own software with their laptops which saves the users cost for buying software, e.g. a DVD burning. However, if you already have many such licensed or freeware software available, then it might be better to go for cheaper brands. Acer, for instance, is known for its low-cost laptops that provide more enhanced specs like hard disk space and RAM as compared to its competitors.

4. Hard Disk

Hard Disk considerations might not mean much to a lay user, nonetheless, having the right amount of disk space and disk type might be necessary for the efficient management of regular tasks for a professional. A common user may merely have to decide between buying a 120GB or 320 GB hard disk system. An IT professional on the contrary might have to decide between a SCSI or a SATA drive. As a scuzzy or SCSI(Small Computer System Interface) drive might be required for Raid configurations.

3. RAM

It is obvious that for more professional tasks and to run a Xeon Server there will be more RAM required than for merely using a PC for browsing the internet. Moreover, the RAM type may matter more than many people might consider. For example, there are not many applications currently available that can take advantage of DDR3 RAM types, one may be better of saving some dimes by buying a system with a DDR4 RAM.

2. Processor

The Processor is one of the most important parts of a system and can mean the difference between a system that frequently hangs and the one that runs smoothly. Some people might think that going for the low-cost single core or Dual Core processors is a good idea but I would not recommend either of them for anyone who requires using a system for more than basic usage. Moreover, one might be better off buying a Corei3 system instead of a Core2Duo as the later might be more expensive and less efficient than the former. A Corei3 can cost up to 113$ whereas, a Core2Duo can cost 130$. For more demanding professionals, it might be a better idea to buy a corei5 (if not a Core i7), as the core i5 uses Turbo Boost technology other than Hyper Threading.

1. Warranty

Warranty makes up the most important consideration for people when buying a system. Having one covered with the right kind of hardware warranty is essential and should be unconditional. I still remember when Sony had to recall several Laptops due to a battery fault because of which their Laptops caught fire. I'm sure none of us would like to have a Laptop that we can fry omelets on without the guarantee of replacement.

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10 Things To Consider When Buying A Computer

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Buying a new laptop or desktop PC can be quite confusing. Many people find it difficult to compare prices, features, processor types, etc to find the right choice in accordance with their requirements. In this post, we will tell you the top 10 things to consider before buying a PC.