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- NOUVELLE
- CLASSICAL CUISINE TO NOUVELLE CUISINE
- ACCEPTANCE
- CONFORMITY
- FOREIGN INFLUENCE
- INNOVATION

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French cuisine took a downturn in the mid 1960s in its culinary tradition with more than 70 percent of ready-made meals being offered in most restaurants. This has led France to lose its identity in their food culture However, France took a turn from its dull and predictable food culture and made a powerful recovery by turning to young foreign chefs that have the passion to serve French dishes. The chefs uphold an artisanal spirit that was forgotten in the French food culture by composing menus based on what is available in the market and cultivating relationships with vendors. France developed an openness to being creative in their food and embraced the sense of adventurousness and fun in the French cuisine.

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- The French cuisine in itself was starting to, in a way, deteriorate for one reason or another. The solution to it was, unexpectedly, foreign chefs.
- Foreign chefs, or even local chefs that studied culinary arts overseas, brought in new ideas and '[revived] an artisanal spirit' by preparing the foods according to what was readily available at the markets.
- Back then, it used to be almost insulting and a mockery to suggest the concept of foreign concepts cooking French food, but now, Parisians are looking for something exciting.
- Therefore, other than chefs looking to liberate themselves from the burden of tradition, the consumers help transform the French food culture into something new and fresh.

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- French food culture was starting to stagnate from the late 1990s, with a decline in culinary tradition and Paris coming to be viewed as dull and predictable with regard to its food scene
- however, foreign chefs serving French dishes in new, exciting restaurants are reviving Parisian cuisine through the use of artisanal spirit and menus based on seasonal availability and local produce
- the acceptance of these foreign chefs reveals a new openness and willingness of Parisians to try other cuisines and to experience French food prepared by non-French chefs - a 'love of the new'
- this is the first time in France that restaurant-goers and not chefs are making changes to France's culinary tradition
- French cuisine no longer belongs exclusively to the French

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It was during the late 90s that French chefs went on a craze for Michelin stars in favor of opening no-frills bistros serving upscale fare at modest prices. Today people go to restaurants which have a focus on 'young' cuisine and are at the forefront of the love of the new that is sweeping Paris. They are trying to take French culinary tradition and make it their own. The term 'Gastronomic meal of the French' - part of the world's culture patrimony. There was and effort to win Unesco recognition which generated some criticism in French cuisine, both because it was viewed as consecrating the idea that. French cuisine had become an artifact and because it was seen as an expression of French chauvinism. The restaurants are becoming more exciting and alive

Restaurants in depth:

Bones:

Owned by James Henry (Australian, Canberra)

Moved to Paris in 2010, restaurant opened in 2013

Menu changes daily based on season

Use of fresh fruit and vegetable

Very hands on, makes everything himself

Ultra-artisanal approach

Les Enfants Rouges:

Owned by Dai Shinozuka (Japanese)

Restaurant is Japanese

Japanese have proved to be so adept at French cooking

Both cuisines emphasis seasonality and terroir

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1. Tourism
2. Tradition - old recipes/techniques
3. Local produce

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It's clear from the Catalunya website how important the unique food culture and history of this region of Spain are to its people's strong sense of identity and independence.  It was interesting to see the significance of ancient recipes preserving traditional dishes and local cooking techniques for the Catalan people in their effort to conserve and promote their culture and way of life.

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-Photos of the chefs wearing professional clothes on grassland and in the forest show their culinary practice and cuisine has a close relation to landscape.

-The way they serve food is quiet unique.  There is a photo of a chef pipping some sort of cream into spoon rather than having them on plate.

- Rather than having a range of regional dishes and extravagent banquet, this film emphasises on fresh and local produce such as lemon, watermelon, tomatoes, walnuts, artichoke, in addition to a shot of market gives us a sense of welcoming and supportive feeling.

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Strong focus on 'ancient' and 'traditional' recipes and the historical significance of Catalan cuisine

Film was extremely vibrant and was directed at tourists - promotes both tradition and national pride

Some examples of Catalan cuisine
https://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/en/restaurants/catalan/catalan-cuisine-guide.html

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National identity can be expressed through food consumption. In Catalonia, its culture identity is evidently influenced by its cuisine. The Catalans became more empowered after the death of the dictator and recovered its identity that has been lost. The Catalan cuisine has taken on the title of being indestructible with their cooking. They dissociated themselves from the rest of Spain and became distinctive in the public eye for their outstanding and unique foodscape and national cuisine.

What was interesting:
Every spoonful of a Catalan recipe takes an individual on a trip through its richness in history and past civilisations. Catalonia’s identity in its food culture is formed through generations that inherit ingredients and cooking methods from their ancestry.

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In regards to the main reading, it was interesting to see the impact which Catalan cuisine had on the rest of Europe.
- They were one of the first in Europe to create cookbooks
- Well known for their knowledge in gastronomic history and made sure that their traditional cuisines have been restored to what it once was.
- The Catalan cuisine in the modern era, still has a very deep connection with its past because the concept of the relationship between identity and food was very important to their culture.
-Looking back at tradition and maintaining tradition is emphasized

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What was interesting:
- The photos of the chefs mainly consisted of men. There were a few women but this shows that the art of gastronomy is still predominantly made up of men.
- The video brings up other cultural traditions other than food, such as clothes and dancing.
- Promotes tourism
- Images and video also showcase their culinary pride in terms of techniques and methodology.

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-Culinary and nation correspond in nature
Dishes made by ordinary people in ordinary kitchen is the key element in the concept of culinary nation rather than dishes cooked by celebrated cooks. There is also no social classes or regionality, sees France as a whole.
-recipe is the primary indicator of identity because what people eat reflects taste of a that particular region, lifestyle and speciality.
-a true appreciation of national dish is to be consumed at the right place and also by the people who were born in that region. This is because of the connection and emotion they tied in with that place.
-Due to transportation and technology innovation, food are easily spread around the world, which makes terror more important
French cuisine is defined by code and the techniques rather than where food is being cooked, where ingredients are from.

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Importance of cookbooks in tying food to place - we can always read more than we can eat, so cookbooks educate about national and regional cuisines

I found it interesting that Pampille identified certain dishes as deserving of 'national' status because they are apparently universal across regions and social classes

Pampille takes an extreme view in claiming that one must be born in the region where a dish originated to fully appreciate it, in addition to it being cooked in that region using local ingredients

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-France being a culinary country associates its cuisine with its nation.
- Pampille mentioned the identity of french cuisine is not an exotic dish created by an individual skilled chef but rather dishes made everyday in ordinary kitchens from the provinces and the use of products of the land itself. - She practices culinary chauvinism, where she defended tradition and did not hesitate to promote French recipes.
- It is said that one must travel to experience the fullness of the cuisine.

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- France is a prominent example of a country with a strong culinary identity as cuisine and the nation seem to coexist. Pampille defended tradition in the midst of the modernisation of the world by casting women as its protectors. Also France is defined through its cuisine and its culinary identity was not to be found in the celebration of male chefs and their extravagant dishes but rather ordinary dishes by ordinary cooks. What France was built upon were the dishes from the provinces that emphasised homeyness. Also, traditional foods promote tourism and exports.
- What was interesting was that what and how we eat plays a part in how we ponder our lives,  ourselves and the world.

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The creation of food and the way food is consumed paints a picture of the preparation and the ingredients. It was pointed out that Ingredients don't travel, the consumers must in order to gain the full experience, to understand the history, to appreciate the place and gain a sense of conviction and authenticity.  Thus fast forward to the modern day, people still travel great distances to get a taste of Authentic food from around the world, this is due to the belief that food is tied to a place, and that there is a connection between the taste and the place it was produced from. However, as countries become more globalized the boundaries between countries, places and products become more permeable as different styles of cuisines are readily available all around the world.
- The French focus a lot on culture for competition with the concept of having to learn the basic rules before being able to cook anything they want.
- This quote 'The more a cuisine is defined by product and the more tied to place, the more limited its influence' - pg 108 (confused me, and I don't completely agree with it. This may have possibly been the case in the past but I don't think it is the case in modern times, eg. as discussed in the text about Japanese food, we associate products like salmon, seaweed etc with Japan, these ingredients create sushi and sushi is so influential world wide to not only asian cuisine but also western. Or something else like truffles - a product we associate with France, and the many dishes which can be created from them, are being adapted to a variety of different cuisines around the world. (maybe i'm just interpreting this wrong though..))

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Recipes as primary indicators of identity -> they reach beyond practice to the wider notion of vision and life associated with good food

Cookbooks tie food to place

Pampille -

culinary country emerges from the every day/ordinary kitchens and cooks (not male celebrity chefs)

The building blocks of a culinary country are dishes from the provinces and products of the land rather than a particular creation by someone

For complete authenticity, meals must be consumed in the 'right' spot

Food and cuisines are tied to particular places -> culinary distinction has become a marker of identity

Food has been used to promote tourism and exports

Codes define French cuisine

*The further we are from the origin of the product, the more likely we are to associate the place with the nation, not the region

Nations as an 'imagined community'

What we eat is essential to the way we live, how we think about life, ourselves and the world

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-first food critique

-used gastronomy to rebel (mocked tradition)

-experimental/innovative

-wrote the Almanach to record recipes to preserve and teach

-changed the way dinner was served – from banquet to one at a time

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- Grimods de La Reyniere who comes from an aristocratic family, influences the public’s eye in gastronomic arts and allows them to understand the art of fine dining with their money being spent wisely.

- He is a man known to rebel and insult his family and questions social hierarchies but has become a social influence in giving reliable guide to gastronomic arts which is renowned in the public.

- Grimod built a reputation for fair and reliable reviews by rounding up juries of certain standard. He implemented strict and formal parameters to keep a certain standard in the verdicts.

- He has revolutionized the way French meals are being served, from multi-dish courses displayed on the table to having more control by serving a dish at one time.

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- Grimod refused to conform to social norms and even ridiculed aristocratic traditions in the form of funeral suppers. This was due to his disability and how he himself was somewhat ridiculed as an outcast. Therefore, he embraced it and decided to resort to this morbidity that lead to his success in gastronomical arts. He was the first to critique food.
- What was interesting was the extent of how taken he was by the really morbid idea of funeral suppers. He crossed so many lines and because he driven by the need to overstep boundaries and his label as a social 'bastard', it eventually lead him to teaching the art of gastronomy, which ultimately benefited many people.

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-Food is not for eating but also a discourse, that speaks about social issues (injustices of the world), personal life, colours that represent emotions.

-Background influences the way one eats and his/her perception on food. By living in an aristocratic family he was able to learn table manner, in despite of his insulting of family. This background prepared him seeing the potential of teaching gastronomic arts thus guide bourgeois and proletarians, also maintaining the standard of haute cuisine previously known only by aristocra

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Grimod used the gastronomic arts in the form of 'funeral suppers' to rebel against social hierarchies and insult his aristocratic family, the macabre and morbid invitations and table settings becoming something of a legend. It was interesting to see how he used creativity with food to express frustrations with his disability, family and society. He appears to be a pioneer in gastronomy, pushing the boundaries of the food culture of his time and experimenting with new techniques and ideas.

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In a sense, his background and the way he was brought up influenced the way he viewed food and how food should be presented and explored.
He grew up in a wealthy family, but because he was born with a disability and treated as a 'bastard', this neglection caused him to retaliate by mocking tradition and having an enigmatic personality.

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Fun fact:
Grimond died on the evening of Christmas Day, aged 80, 1837
http://www.cooksinfo.com/grimod-de-la-reyniere

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He mocked tradition and explored food in ways that have never been done before such as through colour ( black foods such as licorice, chocolate, blackberries etc. - he also seemed to really like the colour black and morbid experiences ), also the way food was cooked or the ingredients ( dishes made entirely of pork, or dishes cooked in oil, or even dressing a pig in clothes - which was rather grotesque).

In a way, Grimond enjoyed playing with the eaters emotions mentally. How they react toward the way certain dishes are cooked seemed to excite him.

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Main points:

-Alexandre-Balthazar-Laurent Grimod de La Reyniere (1758-1837)

-First to critique food and publish his opinion in the Amanach des Gourmands which provided an introduction to elitist Parisian gastronomy. Not only did this provide aristocrats with a means of remembering dining experiences under the ancient regime, but it simultaneously provided an opportunity for such traditions to reach a wider audience

-He anticipated the 19th century revolution in the way dinners were served and insisted more control (meals were presented with one dish at a time so the focus would be entirely on that particular dish before presenting the next)

-Grimod aided the transition from ‘pleasures of the table’ to a sensual appreciation of food

Interesting points:
- The way in which dinners were served has changed as a consequence of wanting more control (ie all meals at once in a buffet style to one dish at a time)

-(the fact he faked his death is also very interesting!)

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http://www.catalunya.com/what-to-do/savour/gastronomy-with-a-past-with-the-cuisine-associations

Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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DAY 8: Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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DAY 8: Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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DAY 2: Kaufman, C. 'The Claw at the table: The gastronomic criticism of Grimod de la Reynière'

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DAY 2: Kaufman, C. 'The Claw at the table: The gastronomic criticism of Grimod de la Reynière'

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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DAY 3: Parkhurst Ferguson, P. 'Culinary nationalism' 

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DAY 3: Parkhurst Ferguson, P. 'Culinary nationalism' 

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?