# data[].attributes.body
Monthly Sustainability Bulletins that are available on WGSN inform me of any sustainable developments being made in the fashion industry, from concept stores to brand launches. This resource will be great to use throughout my INP as source of inspiration for my own range and concept store ideas.

[accessed 07.02.20]

# data[].attributes.headline
“Someone who works out, but definitely likes cake.” [Sweaty Betty]

# data[].attributes.subject
“Someone who works out, but definitely likes cake.” [Sweaty Betty]

# data[].attributes.body
Key takeaways of 2019 from CEO: -
- Since launch over £3 million in sales
- Launched in May, £0 marketing spend until December
- 2.3 million online store sessions
- Average order amount is £60
- Average basket quantity of 1.5 units as average product cost is £40
- 63,000 total orders
- Top locations : USA, UK and Ireland

As a result of someone buying TALA over a non-recycled equivalent:
- saved 2.3 million litres of water
- recycled over 70,000 plastic bottles
- saved 166 tonnes of CO2

Some of these statistics can inform my decisions when completing my merchandising strategy

[accessed 17.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
A great infographic that provides statistics that can support my choice of marketing strategy in regards to Instagram and Youtube content and selling on an online platform.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
An article that gives a good overview into the values of TALA and mentions key competitors that I can look into for my comp shop.
[accessed 02.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
One of the biggest fashion trends in the UK is gym wear - with the market set to be worth £6.7bn over the next five years.

Unsurprisingly, massive multinational brands compete hard for a piece of the action.

But at the other end of the power spectrum is 22-year-old Grace Beverley.

The Oxford Uni graduate has found a way of creating a niche in what is already an extremely crowded market.

Back in 2017, when she was still a student, she started B_ND - a company making vegan-friendly resistance bands. She set it up with money she'd made from selling her own workout plans and partnering with brands as an Instagram influencer.

"I've always been interested in finding gaps in the market and opportunities in items that don't exist," she tells Radio 1 Newsbeat.

"I had been using resistance bands and there were either really expensive good ones or really cheap, rubbery and plastic ones [on the market].

"So I looked into manufacturing to see how we could produce an affordable product, while still being ethical and we ended up making resistance bands and vegan barbell pads."

Last month she won Natwest's young entrepreneur of the year award, in part due to the mark she's made on the world of sustainable fashion.

But she has had criticism levelled at her in the past - over her private school background and whether she had help setting up her businesses.

"I don't believe it's for me to sit here and be like, 'No, I'm not privileged'," she says.

"But I've done this myself - the businesses have been started from scratch by myself.

"That doesn't mean I am not incredibly privileged and fortunate in many other ways, like in terms of my education."

In May she set up activewear brand TALA - where items including sports bras and gym leggings are made from 92% reused materials, including plastic bottles and factory offcuts.

Her focus in business has always been on sustainability and creating affordable gym products that don't fall under the 'fast fashion' label - because they are eco-friendly. The hard bit is competing with rivals like Gymshark and Nike in terms of style and price.

"It's taken a lot of work and a lot of sacrifices on our part - we don't have anywhere near the profit margins of those brands," says Grace.

"We had to make it at a price point to be able to offer people a sustainable alternative.

"It's all well and good shouting at people saying you need to be sustainable, but very few people can afford a £100 pair of leggings."

Grace says they had to settle at making the clothes 92% recycled as making clothes totally recycled would have out-priced their young customer base.

"For sustainable brands to be able to make their mark - we need to show there is that demand and people are choosing them over fast fashion equivalents."

When TALA launched in May this year, her first set of clothes sold out in 20 minutes, with a new collection of over 20,000 units selling out online last week.

She's aware of her young fan base and says one of her biggest achievements so far is "matching those bigger fast fashion brands by making prices under £35-40."

One of the stand out commitments of her brand has been showing that women of all sizes can feel comfortable in gym clothes - her clothes cater for a size 4-20 and also have options for taller women too.

Body diversity in gym wear has also been a hot topic in 2019, after Nike was criticised for putting plus-size models in one of their London stores as it was said to encourage people to be unhealthy.

"One of the most shocking things since launching has been the reception we've had on inclusivity - it's kind of sad how happy people have been because it means it's abnormal to see people of all shapes, sizes and races in our campaigns.

"It shows how under-represented some people feel - you should be able to go on a website and be able to imagine what something looks like on you."

Grace says they don't retouch photos as she wants people to see what clothes will actually look like on them. And of course, body image can be affected by your mental health.

In the past, Grace has spoken about her bad days and the stress she suffers from working so hard.

"My relaxing time would be working in front of the TV and I also know that it's a huge luxury for me to be able to say, 'Look, only work working hours or give yourself weekends'. At uni, I wouldn't have been able to do that and still have got my degree and run my business."

"I decided about a year and a half ago that I wanted to speak more about my mental health, whether it was on the internet or to friends and family," she says.

"I realised that as much as I was a huge advocate for talking about mental health and removing the stigma, I actually just didn't apply that to myself."

She says the nature of being a fairly new business owner means there's always something to do, but you can't let it get in the way of your wellbeing.

Grace says next year she will continue as director of her companies, but says she will be working less too.

"I feel like I'm going into 2020 stronger than ever, concentrating on the things I love such as directing the strategy, vision and creative of the business, then being able to delegate other parts."

Listen to Newsbeat live at 12:45 and 17:45 weekdays - or listen back here.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Taking on the world's biggest gym brands

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
One of the biggest fashion trends in the UK is gym wear - with the market set to be worth £6.7bn over the next five years. Unsurprisingly, massive multinational brands compete hard for a piece of the action. But at the other end of the power spectrum is 22-year-old Grace Beverley.

# data[].attributes.body
An interview that gives more of an insight into the brand and some statistics that can be used in my brand summary.
[accessed 02.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Grace Beverley launched her sustainable women's activewear brand, Tala, in May this year. It has since amassed more than 50,000 orders and $3 million (£2.3m) in sales.

At just 22, she is also the founder and director of B_nd, a premium gym equipment brand, and Shreddy, a fitness tracking app. This year, she was named Young Entrepreneur of the Year at the Great British Entrepreneurship Awards.

Beverley launched Tala just months before graduating from Oxford University this summer, after she noticed a lack of affordable, sustainable options in the activewear market.

Products are made from 92% recycled materials. Retail prices range from £6 for a pair of socks to £85 for a windbreaker set.

Tala says it aims to prove that sustainable, ethically produced fashion can be high-quality, affordable and inclusive. It is currently sold online direct to consumers via its own website, and has run pop-ups in both Los Angeles and London this year.

The brand claims to have saved 1.9 million litres of water to date by using recycled yarns instead of non-recycled equivalents. Through its REC collection [a range of tracksuits] alone it has recycled more than 59,000 plastic bottles by using the PET from the bottles in the fabrics for its T-shirts and tracksuits.
Where did the inspiration for Tala come from?
I was working with a lot of activewear brands [as a fitness influencer], but noticed how much I'd want to change the products if I were making them myself. Brands were charging high prices but not explaining whether or not they were sustainable. With the rise of fast fashion, consumers tend to assume that when products are a higher price point, that they are manufactured better.

Higher price points were also something I felt I couldn't promote to my following, [of more than 1 million on Instagram] especially since so many are students. I started looking into doing a collaboration range, but there was nothing I genuinely believed in.

I then started talking to people in the sustainability and activewear spaces, and it took a year from that point to start the brand. We had three launch dates we pushed back because we wanted to make sure we were doing it the absolute best way we could.
How are you getting consumers to buy your products over other established activewear brands?
We wanted to make our clothes so good that we essentially tricked people into being sustainable and ethical, especially if they didn't come to us for those particular reasons. We also wanted to offer sustainability at a fast fashion price point.

We can tell consumers to be sustainable and ethical but often that means paying £100 or more for a pair of leggings.

Our whole brand is based around the idea that you don't need to sacrifice anything, and we'll give you better products.
What is Tala doing to be sustainable?
Our products are [majority] recycled and we also uses sustainable fabrics - like Q-Nova, which is recycled and uses up to 90% less water than other polyamide yarn.

At our London pop-up in November, I was so proud to be able to say that even our plastic bags were 100% recycled and biodegradable.

If there's something that doesn't quite sit right with us, we either don't make it or we come up with a solution. For example, we had a sports bra we thought we were going into production with, but it wasn't supportive enough. We could have released it anyway, as more of a fashion piece, since the elastics had already been ordered and were sitting in the factory with our branding on [but chose not to]. We couldn't exactly sell them to someone else. A lot of brands might have incinerated them but we've actually made them into headbands that we can resell.

We also use state-of-the-art factories [in Portugal], which have just invested £20m into sustainable manufacturing, partly because we've been putting in such big orders. We've been given a huge section of the factory solely because [of our order volumes].
You emphasise the importance of creating high-quality products so people can buy less and buy better. But how do you then manage to keep prices affordable?
Although we're a start-up, we had a loyal following already that [helped with] demand, so we didn't need to spend anything on marketing. December was the first time we did so, and it was no more than a few Instagram posts.

We always wanted to produce leggings. We were trialling all these leggings that were 100% recycled, but we found we could not retail them for less than £100.

We almost threw in the towel, but we eventually decided to take the recycled elements down from 100% to 92% and found we could then more than halve the price to £40.

I thought we were sacrificing our sustainability, but we realised the problem we're trying to fight is that there aren't products on the market right now that offer something high-end, sustainable, ethical, and affordable. So, if we can't sell these at £40, there's no point selling them at all because we'd be entering into a market that already exists.

By slightly reducing the recycled factor we were making sure we were still producing ethically, and with that 8% difference, thousands more customers could afford to buy sustainable rather than fast-fashion equivalents.

Tala campaign aw19
What then do you think is the biggest challenge facing the fashion industry right now?
Consumer habits - people feel like they have to buy a new outfit for every event they go to. But there's also lots of issues with inclusivity and the way products are marketed. A lot of brands like to include cultures only when it benefits them.
And how do you hope to see Tala grow over the next five years?
There really is demand for sustainable lifestyle brands that can be your go-to for whatever you need - whether it's a pair of shoes or a dress for a night out. If we're looking for a sustainable option that we can't find at Tala or elsewhere for a good price, we're looking into making it ourselves. That could be activewear or it could be products like make-up remover pads to ensure people aren't rebuying cotton pads every month.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The fitness influencer bringing sustainability to activewear

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Grace Beverley launched her sustainable women's activewear brand, Tala, in May this year. It has since amassed more than 50,000 orders and $3 million (£2.3m) in sales. At just 22, she is also the founder and director of B_nd, a premium gym equipment brand, and Shreddy, a fitness tracking app.

# data[].attributes.body
Completed on 20.12.20 at approx 11.30am

When I entered the store, it was fairly quiet due to the time of day, however the first thing I noticed was the friendly nature of the staff. They were quick to greet me and offered to help with anything I needed.
Although the product area of the store was quite small, it was displayed well and there were signs that said the different fits of the activewear, which would easily direct and inform the customer to the product they were looking for.
However, the main takeaway from the store visit was the extra experiences that were on offer. Upstairs, there was a cafe and a beauty salon. Downstairs, there a pilates and yoga studio. This demonstrated that Sweaty Betty are building a community and encouraging people to come to the store to enjoy more than just the product.
In terms of sustainability, they offer the super sculpt leggings that contain recycled polyester. In the store, they provided a recycling bin, in which customers could come and donate their old leggings to be recycled.

# data[].attributes.body
An article that explores some key identities within consumers, which can build on my research into the consumer for TALA, Generation Z.

Eco-efficiency: Sustainability is now very important to consumers, and "eco-efficiency is best described as a business approach that aims to minimise ecological damage while maximising the efficiency of the company and its production processes". Customers expect businesses to be improving their sustainable practices and working towards to a green future. Plus, they expect brands to be transparent about it.

Accountability: With the rise in the internet, consumers are more educated than ever before and they can't be fooled. Businesses have to be transparent with their customers and be honest when they do mistakes in order to be successful as "63% of global consumers would buy from a company they consider authentic over competitors"

[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
Great information to inform sustainable fabrics used in fashion, particularly in swimwear. Plus, there are statistics about the use of recyclable materials in swimwear, which can support my decision to incorporate a new product category into the TALA brand.

[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
A report that provides beneficial research into the impact of the fashion industry on the environment, issues of recycled fibres and consumption. Provides good key statistics and quotes that can be used to back up keys trends in my INP.
[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Giulio Bonazzi, Aquafil's president and CEO, is a relentless innovator. And ECONYL® regenerated nylon is his dream that became a reality after four years of tireless research and development.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Giulio Bonazzi, Aquafil's president and CEO, is a relentless innovator. And ECONYL® regenerated nylon is his dream that became a reality after four years of tireless research and development.

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
Inspiration for my concept store to see how the 2020 retail space can be used to market a product and a brand. For my concept store, I would take 'End to End Sustainability' and 'Educate the consumer' from this report.

[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
- Gymshark [online]
- Sweaty Betty [Carnaby Street store]

# data[].attributes.body
Article that discusses social media and how businesses need to interact with the customer in 2020.

[accessed 06.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
As soon as I arrived on the Gymshark website, the first thing I noticed was the product and sense of community. The first thing the customer see's is campaign images of men or women together looking happy and then any new released products.
The layout of the website is modern and simple, which results in it feeling smooth and easy to navigate. This is important to consider when displaying products and campaign imagery on the TALA website.
When on the product pages, additions such as 'Quick Add' encourage a quick customer journey. If the customer knows everything about the product they want to buy, then they can quickly select the size and the item gets added to their cart, which then pops up onto the page from the right. This transition means that customers don't have time to lose attention and it is super easy to get to checkout.
Overall, the website has clear imagery, a smooth and polished appeal with an efficient customer journey.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Gymshark Official Store | Gym Clothes & Workout Wear | Gymshark

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Unlock your full potential with our game-changing gym clothes. Shop workout clothes & activewear for the gym, running & everything in-between.

# data[].attributes.body
The swimwear on offer at Gymshark is varied, from sporty swimsuits to more fashion bikinis. The pricing is fairly reasonable, with swimsuits around £30-35 and bikini pieces from £20-25. However, similar to other products they sell, sustainability does not seem to be the driving force within swimwear as no swimwear products are made with recycled materials. Therefore, if TALA can match the price point and offer a sustainable option, its a great USP for the brand.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Women’s Swimwear and Beachwear | Gymshark

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Find your new resting beach face with Gymshark’s collection of swimwear for women. Including a wide range of high waisted sports bikinis and swimsuits.

# data[].attributes.body
I chose to look at Monki as competitor analysis due to their Monki Cares range that launched in 2017. They launched sustainable products, including swimwear.
Their products are a very affordable price, with bikini tops being £10-15 and swimsuits costing £45. In order to compete with Monki, TALA swimwear has to stand out from the crowd in terms of trend, as they are both sustainable options.

I did also go into the Carnaby Street store to see if I could see and feel the swimwear products in person. However, as I visited on 20.12.20, there was no swimwear in store as it was out of season.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.headline
Edited Analysis: Womenswear - How Eco-Friendly fabrics grow in 2019

# data[].attributes.subject
Edited Analysis: Womenswear - How Eco-Friendly fabrics grow in 2019

# data[].attributes.body
Interesting analytics from Edited that demonstrate the growth in sustainable fabrics within the fashion industry.

Some key statistics:
- "Mentions of recycled cotton within emails, on landing pages and homepages has increased by 2138% YoY."
- "Looking at swimwear specifically, nylon products have decreased by 25%, while recycled swimwear products have jumped by 80% YoY."

It is also interesting to look at the entry level price of these fabrics, with the lowest being recycled polyester at £6. This demonstrates that it is becoming more feasible for high street retailers to provide sustainable options at an affordable price.

[accessed 08.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
These articles provide me with information on how recycled fabrics are made and the sustainable impact they can have. This is crucial for me to explain my fabric choices within this range.

[accessed 10.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Our goal is to create a business that is restorative and regenerative by design, striving to incorporate as many circular materials as possible into our collections.

Synthetic materials, such as nylon and polyester, can - and should - be recycled and come from recycled sources.

As a global population, we are using the equivalent of 1.5 planets worth of natural resources (WWF) .¹ Every year we continue to extract new raw materials to create products that most likely end up in landfill, where they take centuries to decompose.

The world is full of raw material that is already in use, or on its way to landfill, where it will take centuries to decompose. The most logical, and exciting, next step is to reuse what we already have. To turn 'waste' materials into something more luxurious to create a truly a truly circular, restorative system.

Recycled nylon

By 2020, our goal is to stop using virgin nylon. To do this, we are switching all of our current nylon to ECONYL® regenerated nylon.

ECONYL® takes recycled materials to a whole exciting new level by turning waste into resource. To make ECONYL®, waste such as industrial plastic, waste fabric and fishing nets from oceans is recycled and regenerated into a new nylon yarn that is exactly the same quality as virgin nylon.

Our collection of Falabella GO bags are made with ECONYL® yarn, and we are now lining all Falabella's with ECONYL® regenerated nylon. We also use ECONYL® in our outerwear.

Recycled polyester

Since 2012, all of our handbags have been lined using fabric made from recycled water bottles and we use recycled polyester instead of virgin polyester throughout our collections whenever possible. Most recently we sent it down the runway in our Summer 2018 runway show.

Currently, the polyester we use is made out of recycled plastic water bottles, which is what the vast majority of the recycled polyester around world is made from. To date this has been the only commercial option available to us, however we are seeking and supporting new technologies that will enable us, and the fashion industry, to recycle polyester fabrics back into fabrics. Only 1% of textiles are currently recycled back into textiles² and we believe that it is time for the fashion industry to deal with its own waste.

It is our goal to only use recycled polyester by 2025- five years longer than our projection for recycled nylon simply because the technology we need to reach this point is not yet available to us in a sustainable and circular way.

"Our planet has a waste and overconsumption problem, wreaking havoc on our environment. Single-use and disposable items, particularly from plastic, are ending up in landfills, with over 300 million tons of plastic produced every year. It is vital that we act now." - Stella McCartney, 2017, Sustainable Brands

Recycled fabrics - Fashion from the ocean

We depend on oceans every single day with every breath we take and every drop of water we drink. Oceans cover 72% of the Earth, supply 70% of the oxygen we breathe, holds 97% of the planet's water, and lock away 30% of carbon emissions. But our ocean is under threat. 3 4

Every year, approximately 8 million metric tons of plastic waste enters our oceans. This is not only a great threat to marine wildlife, but to human health. And, if this continues, the oceans will contain more plastic than fish by 2050. ⁵

In 2017, we partnered with Parley for the Oceans to raise awareness for ocean conservation and to fight marine plastic pollution. As part of our mission to combat marine plastics, we created two new products made from Parley Ocean Plastic™ in 2017: the adidas by Stella McCartney Ultra BOOST X sneaker and the limited edition 'Ocean Legend' Falabella GO backpack in support of Sea Shepherd.

ECONYL nylon & recycled polyester supply chain map

Kidswear recycled polyester supply chain map

¹ ' The Ecological Footprint is an indicator of human pressure of nautre', WWF

² "A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future", The Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017)

³ Why the ocean matters, National Geographic
⁴ How Ocean Pollution Affects Humans, Plastic Oceans
5 "The New Plastics Economy: Rethinking the Future of Plastics", The Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2016)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Recycled nylon and polyester | Stella McCartney

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Our goal is to create a business that is restorative and regenerative by design, striving to incorporate as many circular materials as possible into our collections. Synthetic materials, such as nylon and polyester, can - and should - be recycled and come from recycled sources.

# data[].attributes.headline
Edited Analysis - Whats Next for Lilac? 

# data[].attributes.subject
Edited Analysis - Whats Next for Lilac? 

# data[].attributes.body
Key takeaways from report:

-Purple shades have gained momentum since Ultra Violet won Pantone Colour of the Year 2018

- "Although tops and dresses make up the majority of the assortment, activewear and lingerie has also been pushed in the cool-toned lavender hue by key retailers dominating these fields such as Lululemon and Savage X Fenty."

- Worn by celebrities and influencers such as Kylie Jenner, Rihanna and Amal Clooney. Present on social media according to the Trending on Instagram Weekly Reports.
[accessed 10.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 22.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
Drapers article that demonstrates the fashion industrys predictions for 2020.
Key takeaways:
- Volatility in store experiences
- Development in sustainable and ethical practices
- Innovation
[accessed 13.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Steven Cook, managing director fashion, home and beauty, Debenhams

Volatility seems to be the new normal

It's no secret that customers are looking for unique experiences, and retailers need to work harder than ever before to entice shoppers into stores. For retailers, volatility seems to be the new normal.

However, talk of the death of the high street is premature. In 2019, consumers spent increasing amounts on well-being and experiences. Their focus on ethical and sustainable retailing is rising.

These trends look set to continue in 2020 and, fortunately, department stores are well placed to cater for them. The retailers that thrive this year will be those that truly understand and anticipate how their customers' needs are evolving.

At Debenhams, having been through what was undeniably a painful restructuring last year, we are now looking to the future with a mixture of realism and confidence. We are managing costs tightly while looking at all our processes to ensure we are choosing the sustainable option.

Since becoming a member of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) in 2019, we have sourced the equivalent of nearly 2 million units of BCI cotton product across all our brands.

In 2020, we'll continue to play to our strengths: making designer fashion accessible, offering a fantastic range of brands and providing great value, which has been at the heart of who we are for the last 200 years.

Holli Rogers, CEO, Browns and chief brand officer, Farfetch

I'm looking forward to continuing to make changes in sustainability

The most important thing for Browns as a business will be the progression of our "Conscious" [sustainable] categories and our endeavours around sustainability. We have seen such growth and change in relation to shopping habits - rental, resale and more - as well as how we think and feel, and what we do around this topic. I'm looking forward to continuing to make changes in this area, alongside the fashion industry as a whole.

As a retailer, we will continue to look at how the physical store acts as a "venue" as well as a simple shopping space, to create a unique 360-degree environment that allows customers to engage with both product and experience.

Additionally, 2020 and the new decade marks a significant milestone for us. Browns turns 50 this year, and we will open our new flagship on Brook Street in London.

As we celebrate and reflect on the last 50 years, we will also be looking at the next 50. We'll be thinking about what retail will look like in the future, building on experiential and community-led initiatives, and how we continue to bridge the offline and online worlds.

Nigel Oddy, CEO, New Look

Where there are challenges, there are also opportunities

Last year was exceptionally busy for both the retail sector and New Look, and I expect 2020 will be no different. The market will remain challenging and customers' expectations will understandably continue to rise.

A lot has been made of the difficulties the sector has faced over recent times, and these shouldn't be underestimated. But where there are challenges, there are also opportunities.

At New Look, we enter 2020 with a degree of optimism.

We remain committed to the high street. The convenient locations of our stores are a key differentiator and we will continue to invest prudently to further enhance our multichannel capabilities. We are delivering record levels of click-and-collect orders and this will remain a focus as customers increasingly expect to shop seamlessly across channels.

We have a broad customer base, and our customers tell us they want stylish product with wide appeal. This means buying into successful trends quickly.

Looking to 2020, we will continue to invest in our people - bringing in more new talent while continuing to get the best out of our great team of colleagues. Here's to an exciting year ahead.

Paul Marchant, CEO, Primark

We need to give customers more reasons to come into our stores

The in-store experience will become increasingly important for high street retailers in 2020. We need to give customers more reasons to come into our stores. We will continue to invest, test and trial new concepts, and introduce new experiential opportunities.

Our Birmingham store, which opened last year, has changed the perception of the Primark shopping experience. It is a progressive and innovative retail environment, showcasing an amazing variety of food and beverage, beauty, licensed shop-in-shops and personalisation services, in addition to our full and ever-evolving product range.

We continue to firmly believe in the high street and will grow our footprint this year. We expect to open 19 new stores across nine countries together with several relocations and extensions in the current financial year. We are excited to continue our expansion in central eastern Europe, where we will open our first store in Poland in the spring, followed by our first store in the Czech Republic later in the year.

A key area of focus for 2020 will be the ongoing implementation of our Primark Cares strategy, which will focus on being a responsible retailer, and delivering sustainable and recycled products to our customers. We recently announced an expansion of our cotton programme to train 160,000 farmers in more sustainable farming methods, which will mean more sustainable cotton products for our customers next year.

Andy Long, CEO, Pentland Brands

Those that rely on 'good enough' will continue to suffer

There will be continued global uncertainty in 2020 that impacts trade and consumer confidence, but there will also be lots of growth opportunities for brands and businesses that focus on getting their market, channel and consumer propositions right. Those that rely on "good enough" will continue to suffer.

Sustainability will continue to become more important as consumers shift their purchasing behaviours towards retailers with clear sustainability credentials.

Consumers want to buy where, when and how they want. Social media continues to be a core pre-shopping destination to drive consumers into both physical and ecommerce retail channels. Embracing this, alongside creating differentiated brand offers for our retailers with great bricks-and-mortar locations, will be essential.

As consumers look for brands that resonate with who they are, our focus will be on our brands being there in more moments that matter. For example, at the Tokyo Olympics this year, athletes wearing Speedo will once again take centre stage in the swimming pool. The brand will use this platform to connect with and inspire more people around the world to love and enjoy being in the water.

Peter Ruis, managing director of international, Anthropologie

There will be some significant 'like-for-like' opportunity

Like the last three years, 2020 is almost impossible to predict. Much of the political and economic uncertainty is unlikely to be completely resolved. The news is likely to be full of deadlines, extensions, referenda and trade deals.

However, the industry will be comparing against a very volatile 2019, so there will be some significant "like-for-like" opportunity. In addition, the sad demise of some key brands, and the closing of physical doors within existing brands, will open up potential market share gain.

I do not see the coming years as being about any one transformative new technology trend, or dramatic change in consumer sentiment and habit. It is never "one size fits all". As always, we are all beholden to drive innovation across our proposition, using the best of what is around and what we are creating.

As fashion retailers, we must deliver the optimism and escapism needed to drive the consumer forward. Fashion is fun, and we need to create that sense across all our channels.

We'll be expanding across the UK and internationally in 2020 and, therefore, will have the chance to introduce our brand to many new customers. We will be launching some ground-breaking new clothing collaborations.

Max Bittner, CEO, Vestiaire Collective

The need for brands to innovate will dominate the landscape

The retail industry is experiencing a time of significant change. The dynamics driving this shift will become stronger in 2020, as the importance of sustainability increases for the customer. The need for brands to innovate will dominate the landscape. There will be disruption as younger, agile brands continue to challenge the way established brands operate. All brands will need to learn to self-disrupt to stay ahead of the game.

Customer experience continues to be a key concern within the growing digital landscape. Millennials and Generation Z are driving the growth of the second-hand market and ecommerce generally. Both are generations that have grown up with technology, so brands will continue to explore ways to innovate in this sphere. Artificial intelligence and blockchain will increase in influence as more brands use AI to develop enhanced customer experiences, and the need for traceability in luxury products increases.

Customers will continue to question and change their approach to consumption. They are becoming more conscious of both sustainability and the impact of consumerism, which will ultimately force brands to rethink their current model.

Ali Hall and Julie Lavington, co-founders and joint CEOs, Sosandar

The sector will continue to see challenges that may well prompt further discounting

Consumers are becoming increasingly discerning and the businesses that are seeing success are the ones that have customers' needs at the centre of everything they do. In 2020, it will be more important than ever for fashion retailers to invest in great customer service and to ensure they are engaging properly with their customers.

Given increasing concerns around sustainability, we also believe there will be an increase in demand for high-quality, well-made clothes that last but are good value for money, while also being fashion forward.

Shopping via social media has become the norm for women of all generations and this shows no sign of slowing down. Customers expect to be inspired by the great styling of different pieces, as well as seeing how they can be worn for different occasions. Once inspired, they expect to have the ability to quickly and easily purchase any of the items shown.

We are under no illusions: because of the wider macro environment, the sector will continue to see challenges that may well prompt further discounting across the high street. At Sosandar, we focus on full-price product that customers are prepared to pay for by offering newness and a high-quality product range that inspires them. Despite the wider environment, we were delighted to report a record year of trading and we are predicting very strong growth for Sosandar this year.

Steve Cochrane, managing director, Psyche

Brace for at least another 12 months of Brexit doldrums

I'm expecting 2020 to be significantly better than the past two years, but not because of an upswing in the economy. Brands and retailers need to brace themselves for at least another 12 months of Brexit doldrums.

At Psyche specifically, I have spent a lot of time reviewing our costs and systems, and have identified many areas where I can make significant improvements and savings this year.

For example, I have already cut stock levels by 20% in 2019, as we were giving customers too much choice and had a lot of similar products. This focus on product will continue in 2020.

I have also reassessed job roles and staff responsibilities, and Psyche is committed to carrying out much more staff training. The results should come to fruition this year and help to develop our customer service. Another way we will navigate trading conditions is through our new, custom-built accounting software. This will allow us to risk-assess various business scenarios and outcomes.

More generally, ecommerce will continue to grow, and I expect more businesses will fail as they struggle to adapt to the changing retail environment. It won't be long before 50% of all clothing and footwear spend is online, and retailers need to be prepared. I also expect to see less discounting, as retailers racing to the bottom will have already got there!

However, there's a lot of great product for spring 20 and if that continues into autumn, and retailers manage to hold their nerve, then 2020 should be a much more positive year.

Peter Youell, managing director, Skechers

The high street will be as difficult and challenging as ever

There is no doubt that 2020 will bring about a whole new load of challenges and adjustments for the footwear market.

The UK has chosen its new government and it remains to be seen whether it can negotiate [and gain parliamentary approval for] a Brexit deal or not. The outcome will certainly have a material impact on our country and industry - starting immediately this year.

As ever, the new year will reveal which retailers had a good Christmas trading period and who didn't. This will prove especially interesting. We hope everyone does well over the period: if they do, it might be a sign of market stability, and if trading isn't so good, then we'll probably see more casualties, which nobody wants.

All in all, I imagine the high street will be as difficult and challenging as ever this year. Government and landlords need to ease the pressure of rents and business rates, in order to encourage retailers to continue to invest in bricks-and-mortar stores. If these measures don't balance more favourably, then I fear the high street will suffer even more than it already is.

At Skechers, I expect our ecommerce business will continue to grow. We will watch closely to see how this impacts consumer shopping habits, as this will affect our forward planning. We're also launching our biggest-ever marketing campaign in 2020, which aims to drive brand awareness, demand and sales.

That said, we're on an exponential growth curve, so we'll knuckle down and continue to do what Skechers does best - produce great product that is stylish and comfortable, at an affordable price.

Michael Kliger, CEO and president, Mytheresa

We will continue to work on our vision to become the best luxury experience platform

It promises to be a very exciting year at Mytheresa. We will launch menswear on the site this month. This new section will be home to 120 brands and have its own distinct look and feel. It will have a clear focus on the product edit, similar to our approach in womenswear.

Our customers are at the core of everything we do, and we will continue to work on our vision to become the best luxury experience platform for our customers. Mytheresa is well established in Europe, and we will continue to grow in these markets while also focusing on our international expansion in the US and China. We will continue to work on being the best partner for all our women's, men's and kids' brands and have a host of exciting campaigns, exclusive capsule collections and pre-launches and global events lined up.

Juls Dawson, owner, Just a Group

There is opportunity in the form of sustainable and vegan brands

It was a challenging year in 2019, as reduced consumer confidence, coupled with economic uncertainty, took its toll on the high street and our sales lines. However, we are feeling positive for this year. There is opportunity in the form of sustainable and vegan brands, our focus on the premium sector through our new showroom, Occam - home to brands including include Nigel Cabourn, Good News and RAX by Russell Athletic - and some great new brands that we will be adding soon.

Pricing continues to be a challenge and getting the right mix of full-price and off-price product is key for this year, along with creating new categories for our brands to take advantage of gaps in the market.

It's not getting any easier out there, but if we can continue to understand the end consumer and sustain strong relationships with brands and retailers alike, then we can continue to grow.

Christoph Barchewitz and Patrick Schmidt, co-CEOs, Global Fashion Group

The trend will lie with the consumers

global fashion group co ceos Patrick Schmidt and Christoph Barchewitz

It's an interesting time for the fashion industry. Many of the trends we saw in 2019 will continue in 2020: the biggest being sustainability and more considered consumption.

In 2019, sustainability was a big trend among retailers. We saw more and more retailers introducing sustainable lines - including our Australian etailer, The Iconic - and making bigger sustainability commitments.

In 2020, the trend will lie with the consumers. They will be more focused on shopping according to their personal sustainability values: where have my clothes been made? Who made them? What is the composition? What is the carbon footprint? It won't be enough for a brand to just have a sustainable line. To see how this will develop, and at what pace, will be interesting.

Read The Drapers Interview with Christoph Barchewitz and Patrick Schmidt, co-CEOs, Global Fashion Grouphere

Sandeep Verma, managing director - Europe, Allbirds

In 2020, I hope we'll see other brands committing to lowering their carbon footprin

Climate change is the problem of our generation, and the fashion industry is finally waking up to the catastrophic impact it's having on our planet. At Allbirds, we believe that businesses should be part of the solution. A big moment for us last year was when we became 100% carbon neutral through the Allbirds Carbon Fund, which invests in emissions-reduction projects.

In 2020, I hope we'll see other brands committing to reducing their carbon footprint, too - first by understanding how to measure their emissions, then offsetting them, and finally finding ways to reduce them. The industry will realise that sustainability is not only good for business, but a requirement.

We've reached a tipping point where brands can no longer afford to have wholesalers at the heart of their business. Being fully direct to consumer allows us to have a deeper direct relationship with our customers. We have access to invaluable insights from every touchpoint in the customer journey, whether they're browsing our website or visiting our physical stores.

The focus should be on putting consumers at the heart, rather than investing in expensive technology or trying to guess the next mini trend. For us, this is all about being purpose led, designing to solve problems with great products, and doing it all with an incredible amount of care.

Daniel Rubin, founder and executive chairman, Dune

If we get a final Brexit decision, at least one of the uncertainties will have gone

It is hard to believe that 2020 will be more challenging than 2019, given all the difficulties footwear retailers faced last year. If we get a final Brexit decision, at least one of the uncertainties adversely affecting consumer confidence will have gone.

The casualisation of footwear fashion will continue, although I feel there will be a resurgence in a dressier aesthetic. I mean, how many pairs of white trainers can a person have in their wardrobe? I also predict a long hot summer with booming sandal sales - or perhaps that's just wishful thinking!

The sustainability agenda will become even more prominent, especially among millennials. The fashion industry will come under more pressure to clean up its supply chain while facing increasing costs - a difficult conundrum to solve.

Helen Brocklebank, CEO, Walpole

This year will be all about a response to climate emergency

For luxury fashion brands and retailers, this year will be all about a response to climate emergency. For start-ups and fledgling brands, sustainability is hard-wired into their business models. We'll see the big, established brands sharing what they've learned on plastics, packaging, waste, fabrics, responsible sourcing and so on with the whole eco-system as everyone works together towards a more sustainable future.

Consumers will drive brands towards much greater transparency, and there will be zero-tolerance of "greenwashing". The most important luxury trend for the coming year is a clean conscience.

Simon Forster, managing director, Selfridges

Customers expect retailers to lead the way on addressing sustainability

This year marks the start of a vital new decade in the race to secure a sustainable future. As a business with sustainability at its heart, Selfridges will be gearing up towards a major new campaign that will set the direction for the next 10 years of our journey. There are increasingly clear signals coming from customers that they expect to see retailers - and in particular the luxury sector - leading the way on addressing this issue.

In our most recent customer research, two-thirds of those we asked said they expect luxury retailers to be more sustainable and responsible than non-luxury retailers. The vast majority of our customers (85%) tell us that they're more concerned about sustainability and climate change than they were a year ago.

Tom Beahon, co-founder, Castore

Strong brands will find a way to win

I am a born optimist and see huge opportunity in 2020 despite the obvious uncertainties. As in any business environment, strong brands will find a way to win, and weaker brands will find excuses for why they failed.

The continued digitisation of retail will be a key trend this year - brands with a great product offering, strong DNA and agile operating models will capitalise on ever-evolving consumer expectations. This is also making international growth more achievable than ever before. Castore is experiencing rapid growth in countries across Asia, and having a truly global outlook will be crucial for those who want to grow.

Creating exceptional product and strong brand desire will never go out of fashion, and those able to do this will be successful next year. Those who approach 2020 with ambition and a risk-taking mindset will capitalise on the opportunities that will undoubtedly present themselves.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The fashion industry's forecast for the year ahead

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Steven Cook, managing director fashion, home and beauty, Debenhams Volatility seems to be the new normal It's no secret that customers are looking for unique experiences, and retailers need to work harder than ever before to entice shoppers into stores. For retailers, volatility seems to be the new normal.

# data[].attributes.body
Drapers article that focuses on sustainability within the fashion industry. There are useful statistics that can be used in my customer profile to explore the sustainable needs of the consumer.

[accessed 13.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Sustainability has rocketed up the fashion agenda over recent months, as brands and retailers come under pressure from all sides - from consumers to MPs - to reduce their impact on the environment.

There is now a clear commercial imperative to become more sustainable. To support the industry in meeting this goal, we launched a survey to find out how you are approaching sustainability today, what barriers you are up against, and what you think is needed to achieve real change.

Following on from the environmental audit committee's (EAC) report, Fixing Fashion, published in February, we wanted to explore how companies across this complex, interconnected industry are tackling the issue of sustainability. The survey was open to companies of all sizes - from smaller brands, retailers, manufacturers and suppliers, to those with a £500m-plus annual turnover - and attracted more than 370 responses.

If companies will not change voluntarily, the government must act to help fix fashion

Mary Creagh, chair of the environmental audit committee

Most - 91.6% - agreed that their customers are showing a growing interest in environmental issues. However, many complained that shoppers are not willing to pay more for sustainable product. Several respondents are producing sustainable collections and using recycled fabrics and packaging, but by no means the majority. Less than half (42.6%) of the fashion brands and retailers that responded said they have a sustainable range, while 53.7% said they use recycled materials in their product.

Asked what the main barriers are to becoming more sustainable, the most common reason - cited by 60.3% of respondents - was that it is drives up costs. This was followed by lack of consumer demand - including an unwillingness to pay for sustainable fashion - at 36.2%, and a lack of the required knowledge and skills in the business (34%).

Encouragingly, however, four out of five (80.5%) agreed that sustainability was important to their senior leadership team, and more than half (59.6%) said their firm is investing more in sustainability this year, compared with 2018.

Many respondents did not know how their company measured sustainability, while others pointed out that it was difficult to measure as there are so many different elements to factor in. This is something Drapers will look at in more detail over the coming months.

The fashion industry agrees that the government must do more to support and enforce change

We also put some of the EAC's key recommendations to you through our survey. The EAC called on the government to change the fashion system to end the culture of throwaway fashion through a series of legislative changes and new taxes. The government has yet to publish a response.

Our survey shows overwhelming support for many of these recommendations. The fashion industry agrees that the government must do more to support and enforce change.

Responding to Drapers' findings, Mary Creagh, Labour MP and chair of the EAC, said: "We were clear in our report that fashion retailers must take responsibility for the clothes they produce. Brands, manufacturers, retailers and suppliers recognise that customers want fashion to be sustainable, yet the evidence that they are delivering on targets is much lower - [Drapers' survey shows] only 40% of companies re-use or recycle unsold stock and 12% offer in-store take-back schemes.

"This has to change. If companies will not change voluntarily, the government must act to help fix fashion and set the industry on a net-zero path to 2050 [achieving carbon neutrality by balancing carbon emissions with carbon removal or offsetting, or eliminating emissions altogether]."

Join the world's leaders in the field at Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2020 in London on 11 March.

The event is for fashion brands and retailers, clothes manufacturers, supply chain experts, innovators and anybody for whom sustainability matters. We are creating a programme of hard-hitting talks, projects showcasing sustainability in action, and start-up innovation that is pushing the boundaries of the possible.

Sustainability in fashion today

Of the brands, retailers, suppliers and manufacturers that responded:

55.6% use recycled materials in their packaging

53.7% use recycled materials in their product

51.9% use organic or sustainable cotton

42.6% have a sustainable range

40.7% re-use or recycle unsold stock

35.2% source in the UK (thus lowering their carbon footprint)

12% offer an in-store take back scheme or textile banks

Shoppers want sustainable fashion

Supportive leadership

Measuring sustainability

Many respondents do not know how their company measures sustainability, while others point out that the complexity of the subject makes it difficult to assess. However, we can pull out some examples of how fashion companies are monitoring their environmental impact:

Measuring the proportion of styles made with sustainable or recycled fibres/fabrics

Working out the difference in carbon and greenhouse gas emissions between the use of different fabrics, and choosing the lowest

Assessing the company's carbon footprint, including collecting information linked to air shipping of products from various sourcing countries

Measuring energy and water usage across different parts of the business

Looking at the proportion of packaging that is recycled

It is very difficult to measure sustainability. It is a huge and diverse subject. Every day, we try to do better than yesterday. However, we are able to measure the amount of styles being made in more sustainable fibres.
[Survey respondent]

We don't measure it, we just do what we can.
[Survey respondent]

We make sure we can say we have switched to a commonly accepted sustainable alternative at every touch point of the business, from packaging to product, to electricity supply, to logistics.
[Survey respondent]

Case study: Fat Face

"We have had a responsible sourcing team in place since 2015, which consists of two full-time employees. It is effective because of the engagement of all the other teams, such as buying, design and sourcing.

"We worked to achieve an agreed, business-wide strategy that improves our performance and customers' perception of our sustainability, making a meaningful impact on the issues that we care about. To do this we focused on making the most sustainable choices for our business; communicating our goals and achievements with crew and customers; always considering the customer and how they perceive our brand; owning our goals and the actions we take to achieve them; and measuring the impact of our actions.

"A focus of the strategy creation was ensuring we set SMART [specific, measurable, achievable, relevant and time-bound] goals. We weren't comfortable with setting goals that couldn't be measured.

"When it comes to measurement, we make the most of existing data and systems rather than reinvent the wheel, and make sure that any work we do in collaboration with either suppliers or external partners has data and measurement built in from the start. "
Barriers to becoming sustainable
Asked what the main barriers are to becoming more sustainable are, the most common reason (cited by 60.3% of respondents) is that it is too expensive/drives up costs. This is followed by lack of consumer demand - including an unwillingness to pay for sustainable fashion - at 36.2%, and a lack of the required knowledge/skills in the business ( 34%).
Investment in sustainability is rising Top priorities
Respondents were asked to name their top three priorities when it comes to sustainability in 2019. By far the most popular response or was some form of recycling - whether to use more recycled fabrics, recycle more unsold stock or encourage recycling of used clothing. This was followed by the use of more sustainable fabrics and fibres (including cotton), improving packaging, eradicating unnecessary/single use plastic, and reducing textile waste.

The top 10:

Re-use, recycling and repair initiatives, including using more recycled materials, and introducing take-back schemes

Technology
Respondents are using a range of technologies to support their sustainable objectives, including: 3D design to cut down sampling waste and the need to travel; electric delivery vans; blockchain to improve traceability; fabric and fibre innovations; returns management software to reduce carbon footprint; new packaging materials; robots and artificial intelligence; microfibre filtration.
Government intervention is needed
85% said the government is not doing enough to the help the fashion industry to become more sustainable.

However, our respondents broadly supported the recent recommendations from the environmental audit committee. The only recommendation that did not receive strong support was the 1p charge per garment on producers of fashion ( 68.7% somewhat or strongly agreed with this recommendation, and 31.8% disagreed - whereas the others had around 90% agreement).

Recommendation

Strongly agree

Somewhat agree

Somewhat disagree

Strongly disagree

Respondents called on the government to do more, including:

Investing in recycling infrastructure

Proving grants to help businesses become more sustainable

Making certain unsustainable practices illegal

Working on ways to educate the consumer about sustainability

About the survey

Carried out online between 19 March and 26 April 2019

372 respondents

52.7% run or work for a fashion or footwear brand/retailer, 19.9% work for an academic organisation, and the rest were a mix of suppliers, manufacturers and agents.

The size of business varied: 45.8% said their organisation had an annual turnover of up to £36m, but 21.9% said it was £500m-plus.

48.4% of respondents classed themselves as managers, including 41 CEOs, 17 owner/proprietors, and 11 managing directors.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Drapers research: how sustainable is the fashion industry?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Sustainability has rocketed up the fashion agenda over recent months, as brands and retailers come under pressure from all sides - from consumers to MPs - to reduce their impact on the environment. There is now a clear commercial imperative to become more sustainable.

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 13.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Sustainability continues to be at the forefront of product decisions, brand initiatives, and strategic planning in the textile industry. The use of recycled materials, including recycled cotton, is a growing topic of interest within the sustainability umbrella. Recycled cotton is not a new concept to the textile and apparel market, but as manufacturers, brands and retailers continue to evaluate their supply chain footprint, the interest in recycled cotton has grown.

WHAT IS RECYCLED COTTON?

Recycled cotton can be generally defined as converting cotton fabric into cotton fiber that can be reused in textile products. Recycled cotton is also commonly referred to as regenerated cotton, reclaimed cotton or shoddy. Recycled content includes recycled raw material, as well as used, reconditioned, and re-manufactured components. Textile recycling is generated from two primary sources:

1. Pre-consumer: includes scraps created by yarn and fabric by-products

2. Post-consumer: includes garments, upholstery, towels, household items to be repurposed

The largest volume of recycled cotton sources is produced through pre-consumer waste, such as cutting scraps. Post-consumer waste is more difficult to sort through due to various color shades, fabric blends, and it is generally a more labor-intensive process.

THE PROCESS TO TURN FABRIC BACK INTO FIBER

The majority of recycled cotton is claimed through mechanical recycling. First, fabrics and materials are sorted by color. After sorting, the fabrics are run through a machine that shreds the fabric into yarn and further into raw fiber. This process is harsh and puts a great deal of strain on the fiber - it is not uncommon for fibers to break and entangle during shredding. The raw fiber is then spun back into yarns for reuse in other products. The quality of recycled fiber will never have quality values equal to the original fiber. Specifically, fiber length and length uniformity will be impacted, which will limit the end-use application.

BENEFITS & CHALLENGES TO RECYCLED COTTON FIBER

There can be many benefits with using recycled cotton, as well as some challenges.

Benefits

Recycled cotton can find new life in many different low grade products such as insulation, mop heads, rags, and stuffing.

The process of recycling can divert many products from landfills. According to the Council for Textile Recycling, annual textile waste is estimated to equal 25 billion pounds.¹

The amount of energy, water, and dye use is reduced from using a product that has already been processed. The savings are achieved through offsetting production of new materials. Since recycled cotton yarns most commonly are sourced from pre-consumer textile scraps that are sorted by color, the yarns are already dyed.

The CO2 and fossil fuel emission savings can be partially offset from using existing materials. However, the collection, processing and shipping of cotton scraps or clothing can reduce or neutralize some of these savings.²

Challenges

Cotton must be blended with other fibers to be made into new yarn for strength and durability, and therefore cannot continuously be recycled.

The content of recycled cotton will depend on end-use application. Any amount of recycled product will impact the yarn and fabric properties such as evenness, strength, and uniformity.

Recycled yarn cost is generally higher than standard, virgin cotton yarn costs, and could possibly be cost-prohibitive.

Testing instruments are made for ginned, virgin cotton. Sometimes, testing results can be skewed due to the difference in fiber packing and orientation.

The risk of contamination by other fibers is much higher for recycled cotton. Stitching, sewing thread, small amounts of spandex should all be taken into account when establishing the recycled supply chain.

CONSUMER INTEREST

Cotton Incorporated's Lifestyle Monitor™ research shows that consumers are seeking out recycled materials, but "recycled" does not necessarily equate to "sustainable" in a consumers' mind. ¹ Research shows that 24% of consumers are willing to pay more for clothing or home textiles that are labeled as "recycled", and 32% of consumers who plan on purchasing clothing or home textiles will look for "recycled" clothing; however, only 5% of consumers believe that "sustainable" = "recycled". Consumers place more value in clothing or products labeled as "100% cotton", "natural", or "environmentally-friendly".

RECYCLING EFFORTS

Today, there are many recycling efforts by well-known brands that have launched initiatives within their stores. Companies such as Columbia, The North Face, Patagonia, and many others encourage consumers to bring in old clothing to be repurposed. Most companies who encourage consumers to recycle their clothing allow clothes from any brand to be dropped off. Some of these initiatives include consumer benefits such as coupons or points towards future purchases. Patagonia also focuses on repairing old clothing to extend the life of the product.

Cotton Incorporated has created a denim recycling program called Blue Jeans Go Green™. The Blue Jeans Go Green™ initiative recycles old denim jeans to be preprocessed and converted into insulation. The program, created in 2006, has collected over one million pieces of denim and diverted over 600 tons of textile waste from landfills.

HOW CAN YOU BE A PART OF THIS EFFORT?

As the conversation around sustainability continues to move toward a greater need of improving the life of garments rather than promoting a disposable business model, companies should consider using virgin cotton and promoting the sustainable, natural benefits. Recycled cotton is a great option for reducing textile waste and repurposing for lower grade products, but there are still challenges to overcome for end-uses, especially in the apparel market.

Recycled cotton has its place for certain end-uses, but the challenges with strength and quality reduction can cause issues during production and after the consumer takes the product home. Once garments are recycled, they cannot continue to be recycled due to the fiber separation process that weakens the fibers - recycled materials cannot be recycled infinitely.

Ultimately, virgin cotton is already a sustainable option - cotton is a natural and biodegradable fiber, and companies should be encouraged to tell their sustainability stories with virgin cotton, rather than creating low quality garments from recycled cotton. ⁴ Learn more about cotton's footprint, LCA, and traceability at cottonworks.com.

¹ Council for Textile Recycling (2018). http://www.weardonaterecycle.org.

² Recycled Cotton. (2014). Textile Exchange.

³ Cotton Incorporated's Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey

⁴ Li, Lili; Frey, Margaret; Browning, Kristie. Biodegradability Study on Cotton and Polyester Fabrics. Cornell University, October 2008 -September 2009.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Sustainability continues to be at the forefront of product decisions, brand initiatives, and strategic planning in the textile industry. The use of recycled materials, including recycled cotton, is a growing topic of interest within the sustainability umbrella.

# data[].attributes.body
This particular page on the TALA website provides information and statistics on how TALA is sustainable within their supply chain - through water and plastic usage, their recycling practices, chemicals and emissions. This page will be good to include when considering the brand's transparency and how this will connect with the target market, Gen Z. TALA are aiminig to be as transparent as possible and providing the customer with a place to go to find all the information.

[accessed 13.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
TALA is a new brand of athleisure and activewear that holds sustainability at its core. Garments are produced and hand finished in Portugal where a number of steps have been taken to ensure every step of the process is as sustainable as possible. Partnering with a world-leading facility has ensured that the garments not only fulfil the functionality demanded by the customer but also lessen the footprint by spinning the required yarn and fibres on site (3).

Some context:

The annual footprint of a household's newly bought clothing, along with the washing and cleaning of its clothes, is estimated to be equivalent to the:

carbon emissions from driving an average modern car for 6,000 miles

water needed to fill over 1,000 bathtubs

weight of over 100 pairs of jeans

According to the WRAP report (5).

The difference:
Water usage
Water usage is important because the irrigation methods generally used to feed cotton farms diverts water away from waterways and unmanaged land, causing drought conditions and soil salinisation (4). Even grown organically, cotton farms can still be extremely water intensive (1), so by using recycled cotton and yarn, TALA is saving huge amounts of water.

By using recycled cotton in the hoodies and joggers, TALA saves 4817 litres of water per tonne of recycled cotton used compared to cotton grown.

Similarly, TALA seamless garments contain 92% Polyamide, created using a fibre called Q-NOVA. This is made from recycled materials and cuts down water usage by 90% compared to other polyamide yard (1).
Recycling
With the number of products we consume today, and with more than half of fast fashion items thrown out after less than a year (6), recycling clothes and fabrics has never been more important. Disposed of clothes are thrown into landfill, where the U.S. EPA estimated textile waste to occupy nearly 5% of valuable landfill space (2). However, it is estimated that up to 95% of landfilled textiles are actually recyclable (2).

TALA seamless garments are made from 92% recycled raw materials, collected pre-consumer i.e. directly from factories (1). If the materials were not recycled they would have otherwise been disposed of in landfill. The hoodies and joggers, made with Recovertex yarn, use upcycled products (2), preventing clothes and textiles reaching landfill. In 2018 Recover saved over 7,272,394 m of landfill space and 2.9 million kg of textile waste (2). By using this product TALA is actively contributing to the recovery and recycling of textile waste before they reach landfill.
Plastic usage
Plastic usage has been on the radar for sustainability longer than almost anything else, and it is widely understood that plastic usage needs to decline. A large proportion of the problem is RPET water bottles, which are 100% recyclable, but around 70% of PET bottles are not recycled (2), ending up in landfills or oceans.

The hoodies and joggers are created using a combination of recycled cotton and recycled RPET water bottles, actively preventing non-biodegradable products from contributing to landfill waste or water contamination. Often 'sustainable' brands still use plastic packaging and labels, but TALA products are created differently. Neck labels for all products are made from 100% upcycled Nylon and bags are 100% recycled plastic, which would otherwise have been disposed of.
Chemicals
The production system used in the creation of TALA products is very conscious of the use of chemicals. Conventional dye processing is a particularly high-volume, high-impact source of water pollution and CO ₂ emissions, and uses a large variety of toxic chemicals (2), highlighting the importance of the use of Recovertex in TALA hoodies and joggers.

Q-NOVA, the material from which the seamless garments are made, utilises the MCS process - a locally-based mechanical regeneration system which does not involve using chemical materials which would detract from the sustainability of the end product (1). The hoodies and joggers are created using Recovertex yarn, which saved over 3,213 tones of toxic chemicals in 2018 compared with conventional cotton yarn (2). No dye or chemicals are used in the processing of Recover cotton fibre (2).

Emissions

The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world (5), due to the increased prevalence of fast fashion and consumption of cheap, disposable clothes. Emissions of CO 2, a type of greenhouse gas, contribute to climate change, and the reduction of GHG emissions is key in reducing the impact of fashion on the environment. Q-NOVA reduces CO₂ eq. emissions by 80% compared to polyamide yarn coming from a virgin (new) polymer (1). Similarly, Recovertex, the material from which the hoodies and joggers are made greatly reduces CO ₂ emissions by using recycled cotton rather than cotton specifically grown for the garments (2). Per tonne of recycled cotton used, 233KG of CO₂ emissions are avoided.
Where are the products being made and what from? How do we know this is better for the planet?
Our factories have achieved numerous certifications, including testing for harmful substances, Global Recycled Standard and Organic 100 and blended content standard (3).

This factory uses Q-NOVA, which is certified and traced by the Global Recycle Standard system, the European ECOLABEL EU system and by the OEKO-TEX STD 100 CLASS I system, both of which effectively measure the impact of the textiles on the environment. The conclusion is that "Q-NOVA slashes CO ₂ eq. emissions by 80% and cuts down on litres of water per kg of product by 90% as compared to a textured polyamide yarn coming from a virgin polymer" (1).

The hoodies and joggers are made using Recovertex yarn, which 'drives the fashion industry closer to zero waste' (2). The impact of this fabric is measured using the Higgs Index, which enables brands and manufacturers to measure and score the environmental impact of materials used in creating textile products and compare products to the rest of the industry in order to make better choices. This index shows that Recover makes the lowest-impact cotton yarns in the global market, which are then used in TALA products (2).

Our factory group has been audited by Sedex which checks the whole business on four pillars: Labour, Health & Safety, Environment and Business ethics. This covers fabrics and the well-being of the workforce. For more information please visit the site - https://www.sedexglobal.com
References
[1] http://www.fulgar.com/eng/insights/recycled-nylon-q-nova-by-fulgar

[2] https://www.recovertex.com/sustainability/ *
*These statements have been calculated through LCA work, verified by Universitat de València and UNESCO.
Environmental data courtesy of: Textile Exchange, NRDC, EPA, UNESCO and Universitat de València.

[3] http://www.clothius.pt

[4] Environmental Impacts of Water Use in Global Crop Production: Hotspots and Trade-Offs with Land Use

Stephan Pfister et al., Environmental Science & Technology 2011 45 (13), 5761-5768

[5] WRAP report - http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/valuing-our-clothes-the-cost-of-uk-fashion_WRAP.pdf

[6] McKinsey report - https://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/sustainability/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula "As a result, nearly three-fifths of all clothing produced ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
TALA sustainability guide TALA is a new brand of athleisure and activewear that holds sustainability at its core. Garments are produced and hand finished in Portugal where a number of steps have been taken to ensure every step of the process is as sustainable as possible.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The beach at Muncar on the island of Java was revolting. The 400-yard wide, mile-long stretch of sand was feet deep in foul-smelling sauce sachets, shopping bags, nappies, bottles and bags, plastic clothes and detergent bottles. Bulldozers had cleared away and buried some of the huge mat of plastic and sand two years ago, but every tide since then had washed up more rubbish from the ocean, and every day tonnes more plastic was washed down the rivers from upstream towns and villages. Now it was fouling the fishing boats' propellers.

"We fear for the future," one elderly woman said. She remembered Muncar only a decade ago as one of the most picturesque towns in Indonesia and a tourist hotspot. "If it carries on like this we will be buried in plastic. We have no choice but to throw plastic into the rivers. Now we are angry. Something must be done," she said.

That was January 2019. One year later, the beach heaves with plastic but the local government, working with well-funded international advisers, a recycling company and an army of volunteer collectors have worked to stem the tide of plastic reaching its beaches. It will cost millions of dollars and take years but Muncar may soon have its sand back.

But this small Indonesian town is the exception. 2019 was, for most of the world, the year the petrochemical industry and giant food, drink and beauty companies locked the world even further into fossil fuels, creating mountains of plastic for communities and future generations to deal with and making it almost too late to keep global temperatures in check.

Ultra-cheap shale gas from the decade-long US fracking boom continued to fuel a surge of billion-dollar investments in new cracking plants that separate ethane from gas to produce ethylene, the building block of most plastic. Since 2010 the petrochemical industry has invested about $200bn, and with $100bn more planned to be spent, plastic production is expected to grow 40% by 2030.

The implications for countries struggling to cope with climate change and thousands of communities fighting tides of plastic are only now being understood. From having little impact on the climate just 20 years ago, the production and disposal of plastic now uses nearly 14% of all the world's oil and gas. Plastic production is expected to grow to 20% by 2050 by which time the industry's climate emissions could rise to 2.75bn tonnes a year and plastic could be driving half of all oil demand growth.

Plastic, says the International Energy Agency, could take up to 15% of the remaining annual carbon budget and make the fast-growing industry the equivalent of the world's fifth largest climate heating country, emitting more than Germany or the UK, twice as much as all African countries and nearly as much as shipping and aviation combined.

Even as anger mounted in 2019 against rich countries' reluctance to act on climate change, it became clear that plastic was big oil's great hope for expansion, and one of the world's leading drivers of climate change. Shell's giant $6bn ethane-cracking plant being built near Pittsburgh, will produce 1.6m tons of plastic a year but is just one of dozens of similar size plants planned for the US, India, China and the Middle East.

Despite UN hand-wringing and corporate pledges, demand for plastics grew a further 3.5% in 2019 and up to 16% in much of Asia. Latest figures suggest 359 m tonnes were produced in 2018. Nearly one-third went to single-use packaging and less than 10% was recycled. The rest went to landfills, was burned in incinerators adding to emissions and increasing air pollution, or was left uncollected, with approximately 8m tons making its way to the sea via rivers.

But 2019 was also the year the worldwide revolt against plastic pollution translated into political and corporate action; when going plastic-free in Europe became trendy and giant food, drink and health companies were shamed. It was the year governments pledged new laws and when hundreds of potential solutions and initiatives were initiated.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest

A necropsy is performed on a beached grey whale in Tiburon, California, in April 2019. Photograph: Justin Sullivan/Getty Images

Great steps were taken by the public to clean up beaches and seas but in Britain the size of the task was underlined in November when a sperm whale was found on a Scottish beach. An examination of its stomach revealed a 100kg ball of plastic rope, fishing nets, cups, shopping bags, gloves, packing straps, tubing, sachets, bottles and all the waste of the global consumer society. Such beachings were common in 2019, with plastic-filled whales and cetaceans washed up in Wales, the Philippines, Indonesia, Italy and the US.

Rattled by public disgust at the sight of choked animals and soiled coastlines, the packaging industry was forced to respond. Food and drink firms including Unilever, Mars, Danone, Pepsico and Coca-Cola pledged to reduce the amount of virgin plastic they used by 2025 and to increase the amount of recycled plastic. The global commitment on plastic, introduced in late 2018 to get corporations to pledge to use less and recycle more, grew to more than 400 of the world's biggest companies. Together they are responsible for more than 20% of all the plastic packaging produced.

The UK supermarkets Tesco, Sainsbury's, Asda, Morrisons and Waitrose raced to ditch hard-to-recycle "black" plastic from their ranges and to accelerate the amount of recycled material they use. Asda stated that nearly one-third of its plastic packaging would come from recycled sources by the end of 2020 and all should be recyclable by 2025. Waitrose said it had removed 90% of the 2,291 tonnes of black plastic. Some initiatives were eye-catching: Tesco pledged to remove 1bn pieces of plastic from products for sale in UK stores by the end of 2020.

Sir David Attenborough detected a cultural change, telling the Glastonbury crowds that the world was changing its habits on plastic. But he may have been wrong. Greenpeace and the Environment Investigations Agency showed that more plastic than ever was put on shop shelves in 2019 and only Waitrose, Tesco and Sainsbury's of the 10 biggest chains marginally reduced the amounts they used. Plastic water bottle sales, indeed, soared.

Academic research, too, confirmed that pollution was worse than ever in 2019 and that the fishing industry was considerably responsible. The Dutch Ocean Cleanup project, working in the Great Pacific garbage patch, found more than half came from discarded plastic nets and rope, fish aggregating devices [FADs], buoys, long lines, crates and floats. French researchers showed how plastic litter at the bottom of the Mediterranean had tripled since 1990 and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimated that there would be more plastic than fish in the oceans by 2050 if business was allowed to continue as normal.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest

A plastic-choked beach in Costa del Este, Panama City. Photograph: Luis Acosta/AFP via Getty Images

Wherever researchers looked, they were horrified. One study found an estimated 1.8 m pieces of plastic, old tyres and fishing gear on the sea floor of the Bay of Fundy between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Canada; the WWF calculated that 570,000 tonnes of plastic went into the Mediterranean each year - the equivalent of 33,800 plastic bottles every minute and plastic was found widely in the food chain and in human bodies.

Under pressure from governments but unwilling to produce less, the industry turned in 2019 to bioplastics, which convert the sugar present in plants and crop residues into plastic. Big manufacturers such as BASF, Dow, Huhtamaki, Plantic, Mondi, and Amcor ramped up research into plastic from corn, wheat, potatoes, soyabean and cotton. The market is still small but is expected to grow 20% annually into a $70bn a year industry by 2024.

But critics said bioplastics were not the answer. Not only can they take up land needed for food production, but most bioplastics need high temperature industrial composting facilities to break them down. With few local authorities able to handle them, the result is most must go to landfills where they are likely to release methane, a greenhouse gas 23 times more potent than carbon dioxide.

Industry attempts to appear green mostly ended in confusion. Products were increasingly classed as compostable, biodegradable, recyclable, reusable or bio-based. But most of these terms meant little. Biodegradable plastic was found to be intact after years at sea; not all compostable materials, it was found, could be composted at home; and recyclable depended on the local waste stream; with few standards and no timescale attached to bioplastics, many were described as false solutions.

Faced with heavily polluted coastlines, a hostile media and angry tourists, the EU launched its plastics strategy in 2019 . This aims to ensure all plastic packaging is reusable or recyclable by 2030. It also calls for 90% of all plastic bottles to be recycled by 2025. The new UK government has pledged to ban the export of plastic waste to poor countries, and to introduce a tax on plastic packaging with less than 30% of recycled content from 2022. It also said it would stop by April 2020 the use of 4.7bn plastic straws, the 316m plastic stirrers and the 1.8bn plastic cotton buds used each year.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest

A vendor puts clothes in a single-use plastic bag in Ngor village, Dakar. Senegal is choking on plastic waste, with tens of thousands of tons of it ending up in the ocean every year. Photograph: Nic Bothma/EPA

Asian countries, faced with massively polluted coastlines and a swiftly growing plastics market, promised to act.

India and Peru planned to eliminate all single-use plastic by 2022 and the Maldives said it would phase out all its non- biodegradable plastic. By the end of 2019, more than 120 countries had banned plastic bags and 60 more countries said they would impose taxes. Many US states banned or said they were planning to phase out plastic bags.

The industry fought back. Companies may have promised publicly to stop using certain types of plastic, but their trade bodies lobbied strongly in 2019 against new laws and argued to be allowed to continue to produce more. Industry and supermarket trade groups lobbied against proposed deposit return schemes, bans and new recycling targets. The US industry responded with threatening lawsuits against local authorities and cities who tried to introduce bag bans.

Instead of waiting for governments and industry, coalitions of global and local NGOs, international banks, conservation groups and some plastic producers volunteered to clean up rivers and beaches, and help governments collect and recycle waste. The UK-based Common Seas NGO worked with islands and resorts in the Maldives and Greece, and with city authorities in Indonesia to prevent plastic getting to the ocean. Volunteers cleared millions of pieces of plastic from beaches in the Mediterranean, Middle East, Latin America, China and India beaches.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest

A worker sweeps stacks of plastic bottles at a recycling plant in Essex, UK. Photograph: Dan Kitwood/Getty Images

Novel ways to collect plastic from rivers and oceans were introduced. The Ocean Cleanup project launched the Interceptor, a barge-like vessel theoretically able to harvest up to 100,000kg of plastic waste a day from heavily polluted rivers. Waternet, which manages Amsterdam's canals, introduced a "bubble barrier" to catch floating debris. New Naval adapted oil-spill technology to invent a mesh barrier system to collect river plastic; and Mr Trash Wheel scooped rubbish out of the Jones Fall River in Baltimore with waterwheels.

By the end of 2019, the war between the petrochemical companies and those who would stem their tides of plastic was fully engaged, but was still being largely won by the petrochemical industry.

2020 is widely seen to be critically important. In June the UN will host an oceans conference in Portugal at which worldwide progress will be assessed, and countries will pledge to prevent plastic pollution. Many proposed government bans should also come into force and hundreds of smaller initiatives to recycle more and reduce pollution should start to grow and make a difference.

What is certain is that calls for a reduction in plastic use will grow louder and the industry will resist. But unless ways are found to use less, most of the efforts to stem the flood of plastic entering the environment are likely to prove temporary and insufficient.

* A version of this article appears at commonseas.com
Topics

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The plastic polluters won 2019 - and we're running out of time to stop them

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The beach at Muncar on the island of Java was revolting. The 400-yard wide, mile-long stretch of sand was feet deep in foul-smelling sauce sachets, shopping bags, nappies, bottles and bags, plastic clothes and detergent bottles.

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 13.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
We have an abundance of plastic waste on our planet and the amount keeps growing rapidly on a daily basis. As plastic doesn't degrade biologically, it stays around for hundreds of years without having anywhere to go. It piles up in our oceans and landfills and endangers our environment, animals and, indirectly, our own health. Thanks to modern technology, we are able to turn some types of plastic into recycled polyester fabric.

What is recycled polyester?

Recycled polyester is yarn made out of recycled plastic. It's a green and sustainable alternative to other types of fabric. When you see the term 'polyester' mentioned on a label, you might be likely to turn away from that specific piece of clothing. After all, it is known for being an energy-hungry, non-sustainable synthetic fibre that is uncomfortable to touch and doesn't allow your skin to breathe and therefore causes you to sweat. Recycled polyester, however, is the complete opposite. It's a green version of this textile, which is made out of PET. This is the material you find in clear plastic water bottles. When recycling these bottles, they are cleaned and sterilized, before being crushed into small pellets. These pellets are turned into yarn that's used to create fabric for clothes or bags.

Recycled plastic is beneficial to the environment

The use of recycled polyester is very beneficial to our environment and to the reduction of plastic waste. It prevents the used plastic pieces from ending up in our oceans or landfills and offers a new life for these pieces of plastic. Once plastic finds its way to the ocean, marine animals ingest huge quantities of plastic. It messes op their internal organs, which largely endangers them. The tiny pieces of plastic also find their way onto our own plates, as we eat seafood.

Fortunately, we are very capable of recycling PET-type plastic. That's why it's important to collect empty bottles and separate trash. PET packaging is distinguishable from other types of plastic by the number 1 on the recycling label. Make sure these packagings are thrown into the right bin so they'll end up being used as potential recycled polyester

Support our cause

Waste2Wear is committed to collecting plastic waste and offering these pieces a new purpose as recycled polyester. We melt the plastic waste and spin it into thread that's used to create recycled polyester clothing and bags. Are you interested in supporting our cause and wearing sustainable clothes made from recycled polyester? Our products are sold in stores, so they are available for you to buy.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
We have an abundance of plastic waste on our planet and the amount keeps growing rapidly on a daily basis. As plastic doesn't degrade biologically, it stays around for hundreds of years without having anywhere to go. It piles up in our oceans and landfills and endangers our environment, animals and, indirectly, our own health.

# data[].attributes.body
By looking at analytics of competitors, this can influence my colour palette to ensure it will compete with the competitors. Purples only cover 3% of gymshark, however that may be when purple tones aren't being used as the core colour of a range. Also, blacks and greys dominate which influences my core colours to provide customers with a more neutral choice to the lilac within the range.

[accessed 17.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
Before undertaking my comp shop, I thought it was important to consider what my aims were. A comp shop occurs in order to analyse your competitors in the market, to see what they are or are not doing differently to you and what will make a consumer choose TALA over other brands. Therefore, I chose to focus on how the TALA consumer is going to experience SS20 collection - which will be either online through the website or by visiting the pop up that will be held for launching the collection. I chose to look at Gymshark for online and analyse the overall experience, customer journey, visuals and layout. Then, I also looked at the Sweaty Betty shop on Carnaby Street to gain an understanding of the atmosphere, customer experience and product. The overall objective is to have a solid understanding of what the competitors are doing both in the physical and online, so TALA can stand out in a highly competitive market.

# data[].attributes.body
As TALA doesn't have any information on Edited, I used the resource to research the competitors and provide a guideline when considering choices made for my TALA range. This table shows the price points of Gymshark in the UK and US [chosen locations due to top customer locations for TALA]. From this table, we can see that the average price point for Gymshark is £20-40. Therefore, this should be considered when seeing the ASP in my merchandising strategy.
[accessed 17.01.20]

# data[].attributes.headline
WGSN: Swimwear Forecast SS20 Empower Up! 

# data[].attributes.subject
WGSN: Swimwear Forecast SS20 Empower Up! 

# data[].attributes.body
Inspiration for my range has been taken from WGSN swimwear forecasts.

[accessed 17.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Screenshot_2020-01-17 Swimwear Forecast S S 20 Empower Up 

# data[].attributes.body
Evidence of lilac within activewear, growing specifically within the social media space; where the TALA Gen Z customer habits lie.

[accessed 23.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
An article that highlights the overall trends from the catwalk that will be commercially relevant within the market. My focus remains on the colour lilac and pastels that were present on the runways - "pretty pastels––lavendar, cornflower, mint, citrine––will be present for easy separates". This can influence where I choose to apply the lilac within my own range.

[accessed 24.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
As buyers and merchandisers prepare to look ahead to what the consumer will want for Spring, Stylus delivered its key call outs from the global catwalks during its Decoded Futures event in NYC. Here is what their forecasters have identified as the most commercially relevant trends for SS 2020.
Images: Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors SS20, via Catwalkpictures
Color

Head-to-toe white will dominate especially in crisp poplins and linens but pretty pastels--lavendar, cornflower, mint, citrine--will be present for easy separates and even suiting. All the way on the other end of the spectrum, colors have been ramped right up so tangy oranges, saturated greens and teals, and neon brights will offer the head-to-toe option for the bolder consumer.
Images: Courreges and Ottolinger SS20, via Catwalkpictures
Fabric

Denim remains a high end influence whether slashed and patched or frayed and frilled, but it for a more dressed-up option than previously as seen on super-feminine designer Molly Goddard's runway. Casual jean separates are overdyed to participate in the pastel trend. Gingham for suiting, patchwork for dresses, and crochet for everything, will be popular. Raffia moves from accessories to apparel, and head-to-toe lace is infused with the season's boldest colors. Satin and taffeta are also perfect vehicles for the high hues, while decorative brocades and jacquards offer opulence primarily in suiting. Lush draped jersey returns to dresses and pastel leather is appealing.
Images: Fendi and Louis Vuitton SS20, via Catwalkpictures
Pattern

Daisy chain and micro florals are set to remain but large diffused florals offer the antidote to the demure especially in three-piece suits, trench coats and muumuus. Tiered ankle-length dresses patching multiple florals as seen at Anna Sui and Marc Jacobs in New York, while artsy paint stroke prints were scenestealers on European runways along with the retro sixties vibe seen at Louis Vuitton and Paco Rabanne. Paisley, stars, animal, and botanical are other enduring themes for the exhibitionist while for a softer aesthetic ombré returns for hemlines and allover placement.
Images: Marc Jacobs and Simone Rocha SS20, via Catwalkpictures
Key Looks

Historical Romance comes in ultra-feminine tulle with delicate embroidery detail or in burnished florals and rich clashing prints. Global Traveler celebrates ethnic craftsmanship from around the globe in multi-layered silhouettes. New Minimalist marries transparency, pastel layers and precise cutting.
Images: Burberry and JW Anderson SS20, via Catwalkpictures
Key Items

The updated trench coat will be significant, the statement raincoat and biker jacket incorporating the bold fabric and color options of the season, while the safari, tuxedo and cropped models are also jacket options. Patterned pantsuits, pajama sets and short suits are natural vehicles for all the surface interest on display. After-dark glamour returns in the all-in-one jumpsuit often one-shouldered, patterned or in satin, while its daytime counterpart exists in denim or utility-influenced material. Gathered hem trousers and paper bag waist pants provide interest along with a wide-leg option. Full 50s style midi skirts contrast with mini-crinnies, often adorned with an assortment of bubble hems, ruffles. 80s style ruching enlivens jersey knits, the little black dress emerges with more artsy detailing. and we'll end where we began with a white bookend: the white shirt.
Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry. Main photo from left to right: Comme des Garçons, Dolce & Gabbana, Christopher Kane, and Dries Van Noten, SS20, Catwalkpictures

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Commercially relevant runway trends for Spring/Summer 2020 retail

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
As buyers and merchandisers prepare to look ahead to what the consumer will want for Spring, Stylus delivered its key call outs from the global catwalks during its Decoded Futures event in NYC. Here is what their forecasters have identified

# data[].attributes.body
Further WGSN forecasting for newness within SS20 that explores different versions of tie dye in comparison to the brighter, acidic and neon tones. I will consider both when creating my range and will choose depending on which print I feel provides more longevity and versatility in order to support the message of sustainability.
[accessed 26.01.20]

# data[].attributes.body
An article that provides insightful statistics about the impact of our environment. Particularly looking for information in relation to the ocean, as the focal product category of my range is swimwear.

[accessed 28.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The 2010s witnessed the unstoppable rise of the activewear market which spawned its slouchier sister - athleisure. A sartorial revolution underscored by an ever-expanding pool of health and fitness trends and the boom of the wellness movement. Entering 2020, resolutions in tow, the activewear market continues its upward trajectory - with the UK market alone projected to be worth £6.7bn over the next five years.

Whether you have ditched the clichéd 'new year, new me' philosophy or are fully embracing healthier habits this January, there is a collective desire to detox our consumer behaviours. Tackling winter workouts calls for high-performance, comfortable and stylish activewear, yet as more of us become disillusioned by the impact of our consumption, the demand for gear that shapes up on sustainability is significant.

According to Lyst searches for "sustainable activewear" are at an all-time high, up 151% compared to last year. "Consumers are taking a closer look at their life and the way they live which is realised in the increase in sales across the board for all sectors in this zone," asserts James Appleby, general manager at ethical yoga label, Manduka.

"This is coupled by the fact that the world is literally burning around us," he continues. "Consumers are seeing this on their news feeds, in the environment around them and talking about it daily."

Conventionally produced using non-biodegradable materials including polyester and nylon, activewear can be highly energy exhaustive to manufacture. While such fabrics may tout durability and breathability, they contribute to an amalgam of problems including microfiber and carbon pollution. Designer for activewear label, Jilla Active, Olivia McGuire, correspondingly notes that a careless approach to materiality is a key challenge facing the industry. "Using cheap fabrics and components results in a poor-quality product, consequently shortening its lifespan."

Reassuringly, the use of repurposed materials among activewear brands is on the upswing. As reflected in the Edited 2020 activewear report which reveals that the latest 'recycled' activewear additions are up by 642% for men and 388% for women. This eco approach is making its mark - particularly impactful in the trainer market, with an increasing number of brands striding into the sportswear sector with kicks that leave a lighter footprint. Last year, cult eco-friendly retailer, Everlane, launched what are claimed to be "the world's most sustainable sneakers", which are made from recycled, natural rubber and low impact leather. Its subsequent sporty release comes in the form of the ultra-comfy Perform legging, which launched to a 33,000-person waitlist this week.

While global sportswear giants including Adidas and Nike have been credited for adopting sustainable practices for years, they loose credentials in terms of lacking supply chain transparency. Operating at a mass scale and pace is also innately problematic - both for people and the planet.

"For a long time, sportswear companies have cut corners and the textile industry is notorious for underpaying and overworking staff," explains Alex Parren, content manager at active apparel brand Sundried. Adding, "Sundried aims to show other companies and consumers that it is possible to produce high quality performance clothing at affordable prices, all while maintaining ethical practices."

The labels rooted in sustainable values are the disrupters truly reenergising the activewear industry. Small-scale brands are spearheading innovation through a radically ethical and socially conscious approach across all areas of the supply chain. Particularly championing the use of naturally derived and regenerative materials, namely organic cotton, Tencel and Econyl. By upholding this all-purpose appeal, clued-up activewear labels are encouraging a change of stance among consumers and traditional retailers.

In an overcrowded market, there is increasing disparity between fast fashion labels entering the activewear market and established sportswear brands harnessing an ethical focus. This is part of a wider shift which has seen consumers gravitate towards labels which support their drive to be active - both physically and sustainably. Testament to this, more of us are beginning to apply the same thought about what we put inside our bodies to what we have next to our skin. As highlighted by Alice Asquith, founder and creative director of organic yoga and pilates brand, Asquith: "Why would you want to wear synthetics full of chemicals which are bad for our skin when we can wear natural and hard-wearing performance fabrics."

Yet, upping its eco credentials is not the only way the active market is catering to consumer lifestyles. Versatility and comfort have become integral qualities for activewear, bolstered by the rise of athleisure. "We want our clothing to be multi-purpose so that our customer doesn't have to buy more," explains Asquith."She can buy less clothes and these items will work hard for her in her daily life, multifunctional for a life outside the gym," she continues. "And because our clothes wash and wear so well they'll last years, unlike many brands."

As the proliferation of the ethical activewear sector continues apace, it is clear a new era of activewear is on the horizon. Sustainable fabrication technology and natural material innovation is set to define the industry for the forseable future.

_shift rounds up our favourite ethical activewear labels adopting a radical approach to what we work out in:

Founded in 1997, premium yoga brand Manduka is a stalwart of the ancient practice. With an extensive range of yoga gear designed for and by yogis, Manduka understands the importance of instilling confidence and empowerment in its customers. Its signature fabrics offer softer, cooler and drier qualities, with its activewear made from recycled polyester and organic cotton. Its hero product, the Eko mat, is produced from tree rubber.

London-based Jilla Active, strikes the balance between timeless design and technical performance. Its use of bamboo and modal yarns transcends comfort, boasting temperature regulating and deodorising qualities. The label also employs a seamless knitting technology which ensures a 'second skin' fit.

Asquith specialises in high-quality bamboo and organic yoga wear for women. Putting people before profit, transparency is central to the Asquith philosophy. Its activewear is ethically made in a GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) factory. A relaxed design aesthetic, suits the busy lifestyles of its customers and the desire for flexible wardrobes.

With a performance enhancing focus, Sundried produces game-changing professional and affordable athletic wear. Its visionary Eco Charge range is produced from recycled coffee grains, creating a material which dries 200 times faster than cotton. The brand also boast a range of biodegradable fitness t-shirts using Eco Tech technology, which biodegrades naturally within three years when disposed of in landfill.

Launched in May 2019, Tala is already poised as the young women's go-to for on-trend, affordable and sustainable gym wear. Founded by 22-year-old entrepreneur and influencer, Grace Beverly, has filled a gap in the market by leveraging an inclusive brand identity. All products are made from 92% upcycled materials and save gallons of water in the process. The Zinnia legging and Aster crop, which launched in two new core colours this month, have been met with huge success - adding to the £2.3 million the brand has made in sales since launching.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Body conscious: the rise of ethical activewear - Shift London

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The 2010s witnessed the unstoppable rise of the activewear market which spawned its slouchier sister - athleisure. A sartorial revolution underscored by an ever-expanding pool of health and fitness trends and the boom of the wellness movement. Entering 2020, resolutions in tow, the activewear market continues its upward trajectory - with the UK market alone ...

# data[].attributes.body
Explains the issues of recycling nylon, which is something I can include within my constraints for the garment tech pack, in which I will choose the garment of a swimming costume.

[accessed 30.01.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Due to the technical challenges that are common to nylon recycling, there are relatively few recycling facilities that accept nylon. But there are recyclers who have the specialized equipment and expertise to create post-consumer and/or post-industrial plastics from used nylon, and they compete against one another to obtain it.

# data[].attributes.body
A article that suggests benefits of sourcing from Portugal that can contribute to my supplier strategy.

- Ethics and labour - "Portugal was the first country to abolish slavery 250 years ago in 1761."

- Portugals commitment to the environment - "84% national companies have invested in reduction of energy consumption and carbon dioxide emissions."

- Highly skilled workers and technical ability - "Portugal has currently one of the strongest textile industries in Europe and is known for its expertise in shirts, jerseys, and home textiles with skilled pattern makers and master craftsmanship".

[accessed 02.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
If you are sourcing textile and clothing manufacturing solutions the demands of challenging industry scrutiny in recent times are not new to you. In fact it has become increasingly harder to ensure global corporate standards for CRS are adhered to and maintained throughout the supply chain.

4 facts that make Portugal a sustainable sourcing textile and clothing solution

#1 Employee & Labour Relations Practices

All companies in Portugal have to comply with environmental legislation in order to be able to operate. Over the years Portuguese apparel and textile industry have worked towards harmonizing systems, procedures and process with European Union and ISO environmental standards and we are now up to a stage of implementing coherent and harmonised strategies with the other environmental concerned countries.
#3 Auditable
Yes we know what you expect from us, after all everyone has to be audited and it's not a last minute job it is a whole year's labour. Two critical success factors for brands and retailors are traceability across the supply chain and delivering transparent subcontractor information.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Portugal a great option for sustainable textile and clothing solutions

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
If you are sourcing textile and clothing manufacturing solutions the demands of challenging industry scrutiny in recent times are not new to you. In fact it has become increasingly harder to ensure global corporate standards for CRS are adhered to and maintained throughout the supply chain.

# data[].attributes.body
Portugal is a country that supports sustainability and is actively committed to creating a better planet. Therefore, it can be suggested it is likely that their manufacturing will invest money in sustainable practices and machinery within the fashion industry.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
By Brendan de Beer, in News · 17-04-2019 09:54:00 ·2 Comments
Portugal has once again been placed at the forefront of the most environmentally friendly countries in the world to live in or to visit.

While recent climate reports have painted a grim future of the well-being of the planet, a handful of countries, among them Portugal, have been singled out for their positive ecological contribution.

According to the Good Country Index, which aims to measure the impact a single country has on the wider world, Portugal has been ranked as the third most positive contributor.

The index takes into account a number of factors, including a country's ecological footprint relative to the size of the economy and the percentage of renewable energy used.

"In our age of advanced globalisation and massive interdependence, everything sooner or later, has an impact on the whole system," Simon Anholt, an independent policy advisor who founded the index, was quoted as saying.

"I wanted to create the first index that measured the external impact of each country on the whole of humanity, the whole planet, outside its own borders."

Following the release of these findings, the BBC ran a report to discover why countries like Portugal are much greener than its neighbours.

It says that Portugal was an early leader in investing in a full network of charging stations for electric cars (which was free until just recently), and has incentivised citizens to install solar power and renewable energy with lower rates and the opportunity to sell energy back to the grid.
Recycling and composting is a normal way of life, the report continues, adding that there are specialised bins in every neighbourhood, including one for batteries. Education has played a big role in making everyday green efforts a reality, it found.

This follows on news that Portugal intends to more than double the production of renewable electricity by 2030, mainly through solar energy, under Portugal's National Energy and Climate Plan 2030.

According to the plan, renewables are expected to represent 80 percent of electricity consumption in Portugal in 2030.

In 2018, renewable output supplied 52 percent of national consumption, with wind and hydroelectric plants each accounting for 23 percent, biomass 5 percent and photovoltaic 1.5 percent.

Portugal has seen its reliance on fossil fuels drop considerably over the years and last May, managed to run the country for three consecutive days on renewable energy alone.

Green energy currently supplies just over half of Portugal's annual electricity needs, saving the country around 750 million euros in fossil fuel imports.

Portugal also performed well in the latest Climate Change Performance Index and was placed first in terms of policies to counter the effects of climate change.

In keeping with the theme to keep Portugal as environmentally friendly as possible, Portugal introduced the Green Visa at the beginning of the year.

Investment in organic agriculture, renewable energy, ecotourism and a wide range of environmental projects will see foreigners now be allowed to gain a residency permit and eventually Portuguese nationality.

André Silva, leader and sole MP for PAN, said after the vote that "the approval of the Green Visa will serve to reinforce Portugal's role in attracting international ecological investment, while simultaneously ensuring the transition to a circular and carbon-free economy."

Meanwhile, Lisbon has also been handed the title of European Green Capital 2020. More than 30 European cities were in the running for the title, but it was the Portuguese capital that emerged victorious. It is the first time ever that a capital city in southern Europe has bagged the accolade.

The jury felt that Lisbon - which started its journey towards sustainability during a period of economic crisis - can be an inspiration and a role-model for many cities across the EU, demonstrating clearly that sustainability and economic growth go hand in hand.

The expert panel highlighted that Lisbon is particularly strong in the field of sustainable land use, sustainable urban mobility (transport), green growth and eco innovation, climate change adaptation and waste.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
By Brendan de Beer, in News · 17-04-2019 09:54:00 ·2 Comments While recent climate reports have painted a grim future of the well-being of the planet, a handful of countries, among them Portugal, have been singled out for their positive ecological contribution.

# data[].attributes.body
This article highlights why businesses are choosing to be based in Portugal - economic stability. This is another benefit for TALA when considering where to source from.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Technological companies are moving to Portugal. Why?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Google is the next technological giant to get to Portugal. Amazon might be under way. Companies like Uber, Zalando or Huawei are already in the country. Why are they choosing Portugal? Google is the most recent giant saying it is installing a digital hub in national territory, but it is not alone.

# data[].attributes.body
Youtube content created by TALA's CEO Grace Beverley that shows her visiting the factory they use in Portugal. Within the video, you see the process of creating the recycled yarn. It provides a nice overview of the benefits of sourcing from Portugal such as communication, ability to visit with ease and technical ability. This information can be used within my INP for the supplier strategy.

[accessed 02.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
WHAT HAPPENS INSIDE A FACTORY? See Our Factories & Come to Meetings!

# data[].attributes.headline
"But if we - a 6 month old start up with $0 external investment and $0 marketing spend and only 3 full time employees - can do it, so can you. 50,000 orders and 250,000 units of stock says it all."

# data[].attributes.subject
"But if we - a 6 month old start up with $0 external investment and $0 marketing spend and only 3 full time employees - can do it, so can you. 50,000 orders and 250,000 units of stock says it all."

# data[].attributes.body
By using statistics given by the CEO through Instagram, I can create an approximate for units required when creating the merchandising strategy for this range. Beverley states that since launch they have sold 250,000 units of stock. During that time, they have released 6 collections. These collections plus a few restocks I have decided to approximate 250,000 units spread across 10 drops which equals 25,000 units per drop. This figure gives me an indication of the number of units I should be considering for my own range.

[accessed 02.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
to think 7 months ago this company didn't exist, to now shutting down london for 3 days with queues around the block. selling activewear, streetwear, loungewear and accessories galore made out of sustainable materials in ethical conditions whilst matching the prices of competing fast fashion brands 🙏🏼 @wearetala Our conscious concept store had a lot to prove and man did it pull through. We wanted to put on somewhere between an exhibition and a pop-up store where people could learn & shop and believe in what they're doing. People want to support sustainable brands, they want brands to pay their workers and to care about the environment and be inclusive, we just have to give people the options so ubiquitously that it's the norm. I really really hope the big brands are watching, because they could do it better but they just don't care. And if you're not sure? If they don't talk about their production processes, they're hiding them. It's hard, it's a whole different ball game being sustainable in terms of manufacturing and thinking about every single point in the supply chain with tiny profit margins compared, it's definitely not easy. But if we - a 6 month old start up with $0 external investment and $0 marketing spend and only 3 full time employees - can do it, so can you. 50,000 orders and 250,000 units of stock says it all. Thank you for voting with your money, people are listening and the big money is watching. This is just the beginning. We. Are. Tala. #wearetala

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
81.2k Likes, 385 Comments - grace (@gracebeverley) on Instagram: "to think 7 months ago this company didn't exist, to now shutting down london for 3 days with queues..."

# data[].attributes.body
Further statistics in relation to consumers sustainable shopping habits that will build my knowledge and use of demonstrated research in my INP.

[accessed 02.20.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
It comes after the government rejected all recommendations by the environmental audit committee's report on the sustainability of the fashion industry earlier this year. This included the introduction of a 1p levy on each garment to raise £35m a year for improved recycled clothing collection and sorting.

The report, from consultancy Retail Economics and law firm Penningtons Manches Cooper, found that despite 77% of shoppers being willing to prioritise retailers with strong ethical and environmental values, 61% of them would not be willing to pay more for their products.

When asked which was more important - price or sustainability - two-thirds of respondents favoured price.

This supports findings from Drapers' Sustainability Survey, in which 60.3% of respondents said the main barrier to becoming more sustainable was that it drives up costs.

To add to this complexity, 31% of Generation Z shoppers are making clothing purchases at least once a fortnight, Retail Economics reports. Two-fifths of shoppers have donated or traded-in second-hand clothing to a retailer and 72% of those who have not said they would consider it in the future.

"With fashion retail sales under pressure as consumers remain cautious in regards to discretionary spending, business models that attract a new type of customer looking for pre-owned clothing, or that provides access rather than ownership, is a strategy that an increasing number of retailers are adopting to bolster revenue and extend the lifespan of clothing at the same time," said Matthew Martin, co-head of Penningtons Manches Cooper's fashion and luxury brands team.

The data is part of a series produced by Penningtons Manches Cooper and Retail Economics on Understanding and Influencing the Customer Journey for Fashion.

The report found that around the festive period, younger generations are more likely to shift their spending online from stores. And, as the role of physical stores continues to change, 48% of respondents said they would visit a store more often if it offered click and collect.

In store and online, "buy now, pay later" services such as Klarna and Clearpay are increasingly preferred among Gen Z and millennial shoppers with limited disposable income.

Richard Lim, chief executive at Retail Economics, said: "There's no escaping that fashion retail is increasingly moving online. But the rapid rise of social media has driven a desire - or perhaps pressure - to be seen in fresh outfits more often, which is being supported by fast-fashion retail.

"At the same time, consumers are becoming more concerned about their impact on the environment. The balance between price and sustainability certainly leaves a curious place for clothing rentals and pre-owned markets, as shoppers and retailers attempt to 'do the right thing', simultaneously increasing the lifespan of clothing before it hits landfill and providing a value alternative."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Consumers' sustainable shopping habits revealed

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
It comes after the government rejected all recommendations by the environmental audit committee's report on the sustainability of the fashion industry earlier this year. This included the introduction of a 1p levy on each garment to raise £35m a year for improved recycled clothing collection and sorting.

# data[].attributes.body
An article that provides a background into my research for phasing the launch across two drops. It explains the background of 'drop culture' and why it can be a beneficial marketing tool for the Gen Z market, TALA's customer.

[accessed 02.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
16 seconds. That's how long it took for Rimowa's suitcase collection in collaboration with streetwear brand Supreme to sell out, despite its starting price of 1600 US dollars. Both labels announced the collaboration by simply posting a picture of the product on social media, alongside its release date -- a mere three days ahead.

This sales tactic, which consists of releasing a limited-edition product or collection in small quantities at select retail locations, without much advance warning, is what we have come to know as a "drop". The basic idea is to create a sense of urgency and the illusion of scarcity among consumers. Yes, illusion: after all, the products are not necessarily expensive or difficult to make.

Supreme is perhaps the king of this retail strategy. Founded as a small skate shop in New York in the 1990s, the company is currently estimated to be worth one billion US dollars. As a result, other players in the fashion industry are dipping their toes into the drop model as well: Gucci, Adidas, Nike, Louis Vuitton, Alexander Wang and Opening Ceremony are just a few examples of brands experimenting with this tactic. 2017 was named by The New York Times as "the year of the drop", and the trend is showing no signs of slowing down in 2018.

Burberry is the latest brand to jump on the bandwagon. The British label famous for its signature tartan print announced a series of monthly drops this week: on the 17th of each month, starting today, new products will be unveiled on the company's Instagram and WeChat profiles. Each release will vary in scale and availability, and customers will only have 24 hours to buy the items. According to a company statement, Burberry's goal is to "excite customers with new deliveries and frequent communication". Unsurprisingly, the first Burberry product to be "dropped" is a sweatshirt.

When heritage brands such as Burberry decide to follow a retail strategy made popular by streetwear labels with a young customer base, several questions arise: why have product drops become so popular? Is it a sustainable sales tactic in the long run? Will it work for the likes of Burberry as much as it does for the likes of Supreme? FashionUnited spoke with a group of fashion scholars and experts to better understand the phenomenon.

Fast fashion + social media = drop culture

When it comes to the reasons that led to drops' rise in popularity, all experts were unanimous: drops are the retail response to our high-speed times and reduced attention spans. "We are living in an 'on demand' society where we expect instant gratification, constant novelty and brands to cater to our demands with urgency and immediacy. Pair that with a growing desire of exclusivity and access to something unique and we have the ideal scenario for such a trend to occur," explains Ana Roncha, Course Leader of the Master's degree in Strategic Fashion Marketing at the London College of Fashion. Nick Paget, Senior Menswear Editor at trend forecasting company WGSN, agrees: "drop culture is centered around our shortened attention spans and getting the next selfie with the most current items." Danilo Venturi, Director of Italian fashion school Polimoda, expressed the same idea: "the new generations do not have a sense of history and geography, everything happens here and now, and this outlook is reflected in their approach to buying."

Although streetwear and sneaker brands are often credited with starting the trend, Roncha argues fast fashion companies like H&M, Zara and Primark are the actual forefathers of drop culture. "There is a closer match to that market [streetwear], yes, but in my perspective the need and underlying premises actually started with the concept of fast fashion. That's what made us all used to frequent product deliveries. It created a sense of urgency to buy, to go in store every week and buy straight away as the product might not be there the week after." Streetwear brands just added a pinch of secrecy and further exclusivity to the formula.

Another point with which all experts agree is that social media is central to drop culture. "Brands are struggling to get coverage on traditional media these days, so they have to do things to stand out on social media and cut through all the noise. How do you make sure you're heard in this new, buzzy world?," said Alison Levy Bringé, Chief Marketing Officer at data analytics firm Launchmetrics. "Fashion weeks give brands an average of 800 percent more exposure than they get the rest of the year. In my opinion, drops are a way to reproduce the same excitement." It works: Rimowa's announcement of its collaboration with Supreme had 4 times more impact than their regular posts about other products, as measured by Launchmetrics.

Not only do sudden product drops generate more social media buzz, they also help brands to form an engaged community. "Customers need to be aware of launch dates and times, they need to be part of an exclusive crowd that is well informed ahead of the launch,'' notes Roncha. "It's like a cult gang. Young consumers want to feel like they're part of a group or movement. It's a means of expression," adds Bringé.

Fashion companies are not the only ones benefiting from drop culture, however. In an age when digital influencer is a profession and many people base their sense of worth on the number of likes they get on social media, selfies featuring these "rare" fashion items are the new status symbol. "Social media carries an inherent expectation and high stake in terms of posting new and exciting content every day: wear something different, inspire and be inspired", explains Roncha. "Showing how well informed we are about brands and having access to products that only a few have gives one a lot of credibility and status amongst his or her peers".

It also looks like drop culture is effective even among those who do not aspire to be the next social media star. Consumers tend to trust people they know a lot more than traditional advertising, which means influencer content is still perceived by many as good old word of mouth, even though it is well known they earn a living by posting sponsored content. "Ads on TV used to be restricted to certain times. Now we're exposed to social media all the time, we get so much more caught up in the trends because we see it in our feeds constantly," says Bringé.

Drops are not for everyone

Just because drops have turned some retailers into money making machines, it doesn't mean the same will happen to every brand adopting a similar strategy. "Drops only work when consumers feel they are authentic to the brand identity and values. If it feels like something imposed and it doesn't resonate with the customers' values, it falls flat," explains Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas, Course Leader of the Bachelor's in Fashion Marketing at the London College of Fashion. "Your strategy should be aligned with your target audience", emphasizes Bringé. Nick Paget is on the same page: "what your customer should take from any collab or limited drop is that you understand them even better than they thought you did."

That's why Burberry's recent announcement has raised a few eyebrows. "Luxury is intended to offer products with a longer lifespan. It values craftsmanship, heritage and time (to produce and to consume). Some luxury labels, such as Gucci, are using drops to reach a younger audience with high disposable income, but for other fashion houses where values such as tradition and craftsmanship are an intrinsic part of their brand identity, opting for drops can possibly alienate a big part of their audience," says Roncha.

But Joanne Yulan Jong, founder of brand consultancy firm Yulan Creative and author of the book The Fashion Switch: the new rules of the fashion business, thinks reaching out for younger audiences is crucial for long-term survival. "Luxury brands are having to move to this model to stay in the customers' line of vision. It seems strange for them to do this, but it's an investment that will reap benefits further down the line." Whether Riccardo Tisci was right in his decision to turn a British heritage brand into this direction, it remains to be seen.

One should also remember that, although drops are popular among millennials and generation Z, there is a considerable number of shoppers who still value convenience over novelty, even among younger generations. "Let's remember that a trend always denotes a counter-trend," adds Danilo Venturi. "We're also seeing a growing number of retailers who prefer to slow down and offer an experience."

Consumers who value sustainability aren't likely to be excited about this model, either. Paget suggests: "a lot depends on how deeply your customers adopt a more sustainable attitude. Do they want to hold on to artisanal pieces for seasons to come, which will probably get better with age and wear, or does the novelty of the new win out, with the drop of each new and hyped capsule collection tempting them to buy more and dispatch what they already own?"

Venturi, from Polimoda, is even more emphatic: "there are better ways to define your identity than with a new cell phone every year and a new dress every week - and, for the industry, there are more reasonable ways of generating profit. We must begin a dialogue about a new link between craftsmanship and technology. Let's drop the drops!"

The future of drop culture

Will we, though? The million dollar question is whether product drops will continue to be successful in the long run, or the fabricated newness and scarcity will, too, get old -- ironically enough. For Venturi, there's no doubt about it: "sooner or later, consumers get tired of everything: this is the driver of change and fashion is about change."

Roncha is not so sure about that. She thinks this sales tactic will not go away anytime soon. "It will evolve, as everything does". Radclyffe-Thomas, her colleague at the London College of Fashion, gives some examples of how drop culture will change: "one way the drops are changing is how consumers themselves are strategizing to be successful getting hold of the goods, so you see people paying others to line up for them outside stores, or even using bots online to make sure they're not left empty-handed. Maybe that will become the new status symbol? Being 'too cool to queue?'"

Regardless of what happens to drop culture, one thing is certain: brands will continue to be challenged to find new ways to grab consumers' attention and keep their customers excited.

Images: Supreme Facebook; Balenciaga pop-up, courtesy of Selfridges; Off-White for DoubleF, courtesy of DoubleF.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The business of hype: why so many fashion brands are now doing "product drops"

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
16 seconds. That's how long it took for Rimowa's suitcase collection in collaboration with streetwear brand Supreme to sell out, despite its starting price of 1600 US dollars. Both labels announced the collaboration by simply posting a picture of the product on social media, alongside its release date -- a mere three days ahead.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
AW360 had a chance to sit down with Liz Aviles, VP of Market Intelligence at Upshot to discuss the myriad ways brand marketers can (and should) benefit from emulating "drop culture-" one of the fashion industry's most successful modern tactics.

Please introduce yourself and tell us about your background.

I'm Liz Aviles, VP of Market Intelligence at Upshot. In this role, I'm a member of the research and strategy team at the agency working across all of Upshot's businesses. In this multi-category and multidisciplinary role, I'm especially interested in the blurring of influences across varied parts of the marketplace. Identifying how trends and consumer behaviors in one sector can inspire innovation for brands in other categories has always been a focus of my work at the agency.

How do you define drop culture and what is its history in marketing?

Drop culture marketing developed with the rise of sneaker culture (catalyzed by Nike's introduction of the Air Jordan in the mid-eighties). Drops are characterized by product releases with little or no warning, in limited quantities via limited retailers. They now increasingly incorporate collaborations (or collabs) with other brands or designers. Today, they also rely heavily on social media as a vehicle for brands to announce a drop and as a platform for consumers to showcase their achievement in acquiring the scarce and coveted product that's been dropped.

How can fashion's drop culture be co-opted by other consumer brand categories for product marketing purposes?

Marketers can leverage the timing tactics, the language, visual style, and social tactics of fashion drops to better drive traffic, test new products, and create excitement about a brand.

What are the differences between traditional LTOs (limited time offers) and "drops" in today's marketplace?

While brands have long utilized LTO's to spur interest in their offerings, drops amplify the excitement, aka the hype, with an element of surprise, a greater emphasis on collaborations, a heavy reliance on social media, and most importantly, a recognition that Gen-Z and Millennial consumers are driven by a desire for continuous innovation and novelty from brands. Drop culture brands recognize that drops feed that desire for what's new and ephemeral most especially in passion categories such as fashion, music and gaming.

What are some examples of forward-thinking brands that are reaching Gen-Z and millennials via drop culture strategies?

Nike continues to rule the drop, but the streetwear brand Supreme is typically credited with mastering this form of hype and influencing the broader fashion industry. Luxury brands like Burberry and Gucci among others have also embraced drop tactics, as they're no longer beholden to the dictates of a traditional seasonal fashion calendar.

In music, streaming with its untethering to a physical product has also facilitated artists' use of drops creating the surprise album dynamic. But, what's been especially fascinating is the embrace of drop tactics in other less expected parts of the marketplace like in the QSR channel. Yes, LTO's are standard fare for these brands, but we see them using geographic scarcity, surprise and a bolder social approach to generate desire for their new items.

You talk about "brand excitement" as a method to build consumer affinity. What are some ways brand marketers can use drop culture tactics to build brand excitement?

While most brand categories can take inspiration from the drop playbook, it's in passion categories that these types of tactics are most likely to move the marketplace. However, with brand loyalty challenged by today's fickle consumers and fragmented product environment, most brand marketers should be considering how their brands can leverage scarcity, surprise, clever social media marketing and collaborations to appeal to Gen Z and Millennial consumers today.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Why Brand Marketers Should Take Cues From Fashion's 'Drop Culture'

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
AW360 had a chance to sit down with Liz Aviles, VP of Market Intelligence at Upshot to discuss the myriad ways brand marketers can (and should) benefit from emulating "drop culture-" one of the fashion industry's most successful modern tactics. Please introduce yourself and tell us about your background.

# data[].attributes.body
Really interesting article discussing the impact of possible tariffs on the fashion industry. It will be interesting to see how this impacts the future costs of products - whether the businesses will take the hit or the customers will have to pay more for products. Important to consider when forming my PEST analysis.

[accessed 04.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
However, Johnson said in a speech on Monday that he would rather accept tariffs than European Union law, as he began trade talks with Brussels following the UK's exit from the bloc on 31 January.

This came after the EU's chief negotiator, Michel Barnier, said the EU was ready to offer a "highly ambitious trade deal" that included zero tariffs and quotas, but would also demand "specific and effective guarantees to ensure a level playing field".

Johnson said: "There is no need for a free trade agreement to involve accepting EU rules on competition policy, subsidies, social protection, the environment, or anything similar, any more than the EU should be obliged to accept UK rules."

Industry sources warned that tariffs would have a "terrifying" impact on trade.

"Without a tariff-free trade deal, everything is going to get more expensive and everything's going to be more difficult," one high street supplier said. He added that imposing tariffs would require bonded warehousing, to minimise the duty paid on moving goods: "If your main warehousing is in Europe, you'll bring them to Europe and pay the duty on them. As they then cross the UK border, if there is no free trade then you'll pay duty again.

"You have to pay for a bonded warehouse, but if you're a small business it's really punitive because the cost is really high."

Adam Mansell, CEO of the UK Fashion and Textile Association, said: "The absolute number one priority for the sector is zero to zero [in and out] tariffs. The idea that we would face tariffs on goods coming into the UK, or our exports to the EU, is terrifying.

"The EU is our largest export market by a country mile - 76% of our exports go to the EU across the fashion and textile industry, so an additional cost on top of that would be catastrophic."

One womenswear supplier agreed: "Tariffs would not be good at all. I think the only thing that's manageable is if people are aware of it when they're selling. The problem is, for tariffs that come in after the event, who is responsible for that hole? Is it the manufacturer or the customer who will pay for it?"

One brand source said the most important thing was to ensure the UK has free trade with the EU: "Before the EU, we used to belong to the European Free Trade Association, which was exactly what it says on the tin. No politics, no regulation, nothing other than a free trade, no duties.

"When we joined the EU, it was supposed to be an expanded version of that. Unfortunately, it morphed into this political entity. The most important thing is free trade."

The CEO of one menswear multiple said it would also be important for the UK and Turkey to secure a separate trade deal: "Turkey is a big supplier in terms of fabrics, and has a customs union with the EU, so the UK will have to do a deal."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Tariffs would be 'catastrophic' for the fashion industry

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
However, Johnson said in a speech on Monday that he would rather accept tariffs than European Union law, as he began trade talks with Brussels following the UK's exit from the bloc on 31 January.

# data[].attributes.body
The pound is weak after concerns of no trade deal with the EU. As it appears Boris Johnson is not currently agreeing with the EU negotiator, it seems an uncertain time to make investment with the UK businesses as we don't yet know the outcome of certain agreements in regards to tariffs and customs.

[accessed 04.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The pound has fallen in value as comments from Prime Minister Boris Johnson renewed concerns the UK faces leaving the EU without a trade deal.

Mr Johnson said he favoured a Canada-style free trade deal, but would use the existing Withdrawal Agreement with the EU if they failed to reach terms.

Earlier, the EU's Michel Barnier said its "ambitious" trade deal offer required a "level playing field".

Sterling was down 1.4% against the dollar at $1.3018.

The pound also fell against the euro, down 1% at €1.1785.

The UK officially left the European Union on 31 January and is now in an 11-month transition period to agree a free trade deal.

"Brexiteer politicians are moving from celebrating the exit to sounding bold as the trade talk verbal jousts begin," said Kit Juckes, global fixed income strategist at investment bank Societe Generale. "The foreign exchange market is likely to be nervous."

Mr Johnson said in a speech: "We want a comprehensive free trade agreement similar to Canada's but in the unlikely event that we do not succeed then our trade will have to be based on our existing Withdrawal Agreement with the EU."

John Allen, president of the CBI business lobby group, warned that failure to reach a free trade deal with the EU could hamper business investment.

"The challenge is to ensure business confidence is not caught in the crossfire of a tough, public negotiation," he said. "Talk of a bare bones deal could pause investment."

Pound v dollar

Mr Johnson rejected the EU's position that the UK must follow its rules in order to secure a deal.

He added: "There is no need for a free trade agreement to involve accepting EU rules on competition policy, subsidies, social protection, the environment or anything similar, any more than the EU should be obliged to accept UK rules."

Boris Johnson and Michel Barnier drew their battle lines today.

Mr Barnier wants the UK to adopt the same rules and regulations on state aid, social and employment standards, environment and tax matters.

Mr Johnson binned that idea, emphatically saying the idea that the UK should be expected to follow EU rules was as unacceptable to the UK as the EU would find it having to adhere to British rules.

The UK would like to adopt a Canada-style approach, where tariffs on goods are abolished and yet Canada remains largely able to set its own standards.

The EU has made it pretty clear that what is appropriate for Canada - thousands of miles away, with quite a small trading relationship with EU - is not appropriate for a country that is on its doorstep doing hundreds of billions of pounds in two-way trade every year.

Oh well, never mind, says Mr Johnson - we'll do an Australia type deal with the EU.

To be clear, Australia does not have a trade deal with the EU. It is essentially a no-deal relationship with a few extra agreements on the side.

Businesses have reacted with cautious pessimism to these opening exchanges, meaning they don't like the apparent distance between the trenches dug today, but hope they are just opening gambits.

However, EU chief negotiator Michel Barnier said: "First and foremost, we will defend the interests of the union, its citizens and its businesses."

"We'll continue to prepare for a situation where no deal is being arrived at. We certainly don't want that to happen. We'll work to avoid that, but if we can't manage a deal by the end of the year there will be a cliff-edge on many fronts."

Under an EU-Canada agreement, import tariffs on many goods are eliminated but they still face customs and VAT checks.

Commenting on Mr Johnson's speech, Food and Drink Federation chief executive, Ian Wright said: "We urge UK and EU negotiators to take a common sense approach to recognising equivalent food standards so we do not inadvertently raise barriers to trade."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Pound falls on fears of 'bare bones' EU trade deal

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The pound has fallen in value as comments from Prime Minister Boris Johnson renewed concerns the UK faces leaving the EU without a trade deal. Mr Johnson said he favoured a Canada-style free trade deal, but would use the existing Withdrawal Agreement with the EU if they failed to reach terms. Earlier, the EU's Michel Barnier said its "ambitious" trade deal offer required a "level playing field".

# data[].attributes.body
The possibility of increased imports costs may result in UK businesses to look to source from the UK. As a result, we could see a revival on UK manufacturing. Not only could this bring economic growth to the country, but it also improves the sustainability of brands as garments will not have been shipped or flown across the planet, producing harmful emissions.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
After more than three years of back-room wrangling, false starts and missed deadlines, the UK finally left the European Union on 31 January, entering a transition period that will last until the end of the year.

There have long been questions about whether the looming departure could spark a revival of the UK manufacturing industry, as possible tariffs, logistical hurdles and currency swings encourage brands to source product closer to home. On the flip side, however, are the challenges of higher costs, lower capacity and the skills gap in the UK.

Pros and cons

The industry would certainly welcome a Brexit boost. Production in the UK was dealt a blow when Clarks closed its state-of-the-art Somerset factory in March 2019. Open for less than a year, the footwear retailer originally had ambitious plans to make 300,000 pairs of its desert boots at the facility, but later admitted it had failed to reach production and cost targets.

Manufacturing output in the UK at the end of last year tumbled at the fastest rate since the 2008 financial crisis, a Confederation of British Industrysurvey of 289 manufacturers from all sectors showed. "Lacklustre" performance from the sector also contributed to sluggish economic growth in the three months to November 2019, the Office for National Statistics found.

However, this is not a sector without opportunity. UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) figures show the UK exports £9.7bn of clothing and textiles a year.

There are a whole range of issues that could affect whether UK manufacturing is better off after Brexit

Adam Mansell UKFT

The fate of UK manufacturing after Brexit is a complex issue. Adam Mansell, CEO of the UKFT, stresses that the most significant moment for the sector will come when it finally learns the details of any post-Brexit trade deals. The clock is ticking on the 31 December deadline to thrash out all the terms of the UK's departure, from the multi-billion-pound "divorce settlement" to immigration rules, safety standards and trading terms.

"There are a whole range of issues that could affect whether UK manufacturing is better off after Brexit, most of which we won't know until any trade deals are agreed," says Mansell. "For instance, [tariffs] could mean that bringing certain fabric into the UK becomes prohibitively expensive and [textile] factories here broaden the range of fabrics they have on offer, which could be an opportunity. However, if UK exports are hit with tariffs, it is likely UK manufacturing won't do so well."

He adds that the best-case scenario trade deal for UK manufacturing would be zero import and export tariffs: "We have to balance the needs of manufacturers against those of retailers and consumers. If we were being protectionist, we could say, 'Slap tariffs on [imports],' but that isn't realistic in today's global market.

"If we're able to secure good trade deals with countries such as Japan or Korea, there's a possibility they could consider the UK market for manufacturing because of its reputation for quality."

It's all very well saying there is potential business with the rest of the world, but no one would want to swap existing trade for potential trade

David Collinge, John Spencer

David Collinge is the managing director of Burnley-based textile mill John Spencer. He agrees that there is still much to be determined before the sector will know if Brexit brings opportunity: "Fluctuations in the exchange rate are likely, and any currency changes impact prices of our raw materials, 95% of which are imported. However, if the currency deteriorates, then our exports will become more competitive and it would make sense for us to concentrate on our exports business, which is currently only around 15% to 20% of sales.

"We'd like to keep as tight a relationship as possible with the EU because that's where the biggest markets are. It's all very well saying there is potential business with the rest of the world, but no one would want to swap existing trade for potential trade."

There are more concrete growth opportunities for the sector than the effects of Brexit, experts tell Drapers. "Significant" demand is currently coming from smaller brands and start-ups looking for sustainable production on their doorsteps, Mansell explains, as well as from the fast fashion players.

One area of opportunity is demand for near sourcing from retailers seeking to reduce lead times. Ash Siddique, co-founder and managing director of fast fashion womenswear etailer Missy Empire, told Drapers last year that it "is building its [manufacturing] base in the UK". Half of Missy Empire's stock is now sourced from the UK, driven by currency headwinds making international suppliers too expensive. Fellow fast fashion etailer Missguided sources around 30% of its product from the UK, and Boohoo also sourcesproduct on these shores.

However, the fast fashion opportunity is only valuable to the UK manufacturing industry if workers are treated and paid fairly, and there have been concerns about working conditions in the Leicestershire garment industry.

"If fast fashion manufacturing is done in an ethical, sustainable way, then it is a good for UK manufacturing," adds Mansell. "However, it cannot come at a cost to workers."

Green growth

Another opportunity for the UK textile industry lies in harnessing demand for ethically and sustainably produced fashion.

"The last six months were probably our strongest ever," says John Spencer's Collinge. "We've been able to trade off the fact that we produce in the UK, we use natural fibres and we're the only organic weaving mill in the UK. We have very strong environmental credentials and that ticks all the boxes in terms of what customers are currently looking for."

Others argue that the future lies in retailers and brands opening their own facilities. UK manufacturing is hamstrung by limited capacity - if the high street were to decide to onshore significant proportions of production, the industry would be unable to meet demand. Brands and retailers building their own factories would inject fresh life into the sector.

Clarks' decision to close its factory shows that taking this approach is not a guaranteed success, but a handful of businesses are doing so. Premium knitwear brand Country of Origin, for example, opened a 7,000 sq ft factory in Leicester early last year. One of the few vertical fashion businesses in the UK, womenswear retailer David Nieper opened its fifth factory in the UK last year.

"It isn't as simple as retailers placing an order with a UK factory, rather than a factory in China, because the UK factory [no longer exists]," managing director Christopher Nieper tells Drapers. "Traditionally, retailers sell things to the consumer but rarely make them, and manufacturers make things but don't sell them. The internet means that manufacturers can and do sell things directly to consumers, which is a threat to retailers. Some of the benefits of having your own production are short runs, being agile and the ability to have the capacity to do what you want at the right time for you. If we want the factory to make all trousers, or all dresses, or change the pattern, we can."

Kate Hills, founder of campaign and trade show Make It British, adds: "The main issue UK manufacturing faces is the capacity limit. It's really exciting to see more brands opening their own factories. Smaller brands are doing this because being in charge of your production and making it locally is the quickest way to manufacture, it gives you more control and you don't get bumped back in the queue if someone bigger comes along. There's also the sustainability angle - if you make locally, you reduce your carbon footprint."

Simon Middleton is the co-founder and managing director of clothing label Blackshore. Around half of its products are made at the brand's shop and workshop in Southwold, Suffolk, which is home to a sewing and cutting room where customers can see garments being made. The other half is sourced from other UK manufacturers and it also sells other clothing brands that manufacture in the UK, such as Gloverall and Peregrine. He tells Drapers that by producing in the UK "we're on the right side of shifts in the apparel sector".

He explains: "Producing in the UK gives us a clear story, which in my view is the key to building a strong brand. UK manufacturing means we're aligned with the current demand for sustainability. Everyone is talking about the decline of the high street and how to reinvigorate it. High streets need to be more than a row of shops, there needs to be some theatre, something happening. By also making in our shop, we're delivering that."

Whether Brexit can deliver tangible benefits for the UK manufacturing sector has yet to be determined. More than three years since the fateful EU referendum, there is still much to be decided. What is clear, however, is that there are opportunities for the sector to seize in sustainable manufacturing and demand for near-shoring.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Looking for manufacturing's Brexit boost

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
After more than three years of back-room wrangling, false starts and missed deadlines, the UK finally left the European Union on 31 January, entering a transition period that will last until the end of the year.

# data[].attributes.body
Interesting report that highlights sustainability in the fashion industry. This report provides me a good overview of how the industry and brands are approaching the demand of sustainability from consumers, for example "brands are taking action on other fronts too. Many are making efforts to increase sustainable options for consumers, or even make it the new normal in the future. Zara this year pledged to use 100 percent sustainable fabrics by 2025, joining H&M which earlier committed to using 100 percent recycled or sustainable materials by 2030"

[accessed 06.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
Edited analysis that provides evidence of lilac within the affordable, high street market in which TALA sits. Therefore, it can be argued that lilac has now reached the commercial market from the runways, so the range should be successful and produce a good sales turnover.

[accessed 07.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 07.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 07.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
Drapers article highlighting sustainable initiatives within the industry, that can provide some inspiration for my own INP.

In particular, Timberland's 'purpose-led' store design. "The 2,594 sq ft shop features materials made from recycled industrial waste, a living green wall and trees, as well as information about its community projects and product-led technological innovations."

My concept store aims to educate the consumer on sustainability and our oceans, Timberland's store can inspire in terms of how they inform and the materials they physically use to communicate a message.

[accessed 13.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Primark announced in August that it will train 160,000 cotton farmers across China, India, Pakistan and China in environmentally friendly production methods.

The scheme, to be completed by 2022, is part of Primark's sustainable cotton programme, which targets the use of 100% sustainable cotton in all its product categories.

Each farmer that goes through the three-year programme is trained on the most appropriate farming techniques for their land, from seed selection, sowing, soil, water, pesticide and pest management, to picking, fibre quality, grading and storage of the harvested cotton.

The collection comprises one pair of skinny jeans in three different washes: indigo, black and light blue, which are available in UK and European stores for £13. Primark also launched its first-ever range of jeans made from 100% sustainable cotton in March - made using cotton purchased directly from farmers participating in its Sustainable Cotton Programme.

Primark said the launch forms part of its move to ensure that all cotton used in its products is sustainably sourced.
Timberland's 'purpose-led' store design
Timberland unveiled its brand-new sustainable store concept on London's Carnaby Street last month, offering customers an "urban oasis" in the heart of the capital.

Designed to bring nature into the city and highlight the retailer's wider sustainability efforts, the 2,594 sq ft shop features materials made from recycled industrial waste, a living green wall and trees, as well as information about its community projects and product-led technological innovations.

It forms part of Timberland's brand evolution to tell customers "who we are and what we are about", vice-president of global marketing Argu Secilmis told Drapers.

London marks the first of the new "purpose-led" store design, which all future stores will be modelled on.

This year, Timberland also committed to plant 50 million trees around the world by 2025.
John Lewis trials sustainability scheme
John Lewis is encouraging customers to think and act more ethically by piloting eight new sustainability practices in its Oxford store.

Announced in October, these include the removal of 5p plastic bags and click-and-collect packaging; recycling customers' unwanted hangers; offering fashion buy back; and replacing bubble wrap with recyclable packaging.

The focus is on reducing the amount of plastic and packaging that goes to landfill and comes in response to customers' growing awareness of their impact on the planet, John Lewis said. Stephen Cawley, head of sustainability, added that customer feedback will help to determine what practices John Lewis introduces in other shops.
Farfetch's revamped start-up programme
For its second-ever Dream Assembly programme, luxury fashion platform Farfetch placed a huge emphasis on sustainability.

Designed to support budding fashion technology businesses and entrepreneurs, the scheme invites shortlisted start-ups to partake in a seven-week programme, where they will receive mentorship, education, early-stage funding and access to investors.

This year's cohort had to demonstrate a clear focus on sustainability or promote social good and community values in response to the industry's increasing concern.

The eight chosen sustainable start-ups were: Thrift+, Good on You, Sozie, To The Market, EON Group, Material World, Panoply City and Save Your Wardrobe.

Farfetch also announced its partnership with vintage accessory and clothing curator Upteam - a Hong Kong-based Dream Assembly alumnus - to pilot a resale programme for luxury handbags.
MPs back sustainable fashion
MPs launched the All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) for Sustainable Clothing and Textiles in July, signifying an important step in encouraging brands, retailers and the wider industry to become more ethically-focussed.

Led by chair Anne Main MP, the APPG is supported by retailers, industry experts and recycling bodies.

It outlined plans to analyse industry-based evidence and advise government on action that needs to be taken across the clothing and textiles sector. This will cover topics such as supply chains, material usage and consumer behaviours.

The group was formed after government rejected all recommendations in the environmental audit committee's "Fixing Fashion" report.

Anne Main lost her St Albans seat in the December general election to Liberal Democrat Daisy Cooper. The APPG is yet to appoint a new chair.
Kering's commitment to carbon neutrality
Luxury fashion group Kering is on a mission to become carbon neutral within its own operations and across its entire supply chain, including its fashion houses Balenciaga, Gucci, Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen.

The group-wide pledge will involve avoiding and reducing annual greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions and offsetting all emissions since 2018, as well as supporting the conservation of forests and biodiversity around the world.

Kering's plans include: implementing Kering Standards for raw materials and manufacturing processes; becoming more energy efficient and upping its focus on renewable energy.
Zalando's venture into re-usable packaging
Sustainability was high on German etailer Zalando's agenda during 2019.

As well as announcing its new sustainability strategy, including becoming carbon neutral in its own operations, all deliveries and returns with immediate effect, it launched a reusable packaging trial in September.

The aim was to see how Zalando, which already uses 100% recycled paper boxes, could integrate re-usable packaging into its existing logistics processes.

During the period customers received their orders in shipping bags, which they were able to return to Zalando to use again via an enclosed return label.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The best sustainable fashion initiatives of 2019

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Primark announced in August that it will train 160,000 cotton farmers across China, India, Pakistan and China in environmentally friendly production methods. The scheme, to be completed by 2022, is part of Primark's sustainable cotton programme, which targets the use of 100% sustainable cotton in all its product categories.

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 13.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Let's kick this off with a frankly horrific fact: 8 million tonnes of plastic are being dumped in the ocean every year. Clearly, if there's ever been a time to get serious when it comes to sustainable living, it's now.

According to recent research, we've got a pretty good handle on things in the kitchen: around 90% of food packaging is currently being recycled. However, the same doesn't apply to our bathrooms, as only 50% of beauty and personal care waste receives the same eco treatment.

Driven by the worrying prediction that by 2025, our oceans could contain one kilogram of plastic waste for every three kilograms of fish, Selfridges' annual Project Ocean campaign is turning its focus to sustainability in the beauty industry this summer.

Opening today (ahead of World Oceans Day on June 8) the Project Ocean Beauty Booth is the department store's sustainability-focused beauty campaign, which aims to encourage us to reduce, reuse and recycle all that plastic piling up in our bathrooms.

Situated on the ground floor of the iconic Oxford Street flagship store, the Beauty Booth is an exhibition-style space where you can discover, shop and test a huge array of plastic-conscious products. 10% of sales proceeds will be donated to the Zoological Society of London, a long-time Project Ocean partner, and if you can't make it into the London flagship you can get involved online, too.
We earn a commission for products purchased through some links in this article

'Since Selfridges first launched Project Ocean in 2011, the customer awareness around the issue of plastic has significantly increased - driven by initiatives like charging for plastic carrier bags in 2015, and stores like Selfridges banning the use of single-use plastic water bottles in 2018', explains Melissa McGinnis, Beauty Buying Manager. She feels that consumers are already aware of the impact our plastic habits are having on the environment, and now it's more about retailers and brands providing us with the sustainable solutions we want.

The Beauty Booth is an interactive experience showcasing the most sustainable heroes across hair, skin, body and oral hygiene. With a combination of big-name brands and niche disruptors, there's pretty much an eco solution for every step in your beauty routine, be it a packaging-free solid shampoo or a tub of biodegradable glitter for that festival you've got coming up.

'We've seen an increase in refillable products - which is a great way for brands to create beautiful packaging that the customers will want to keep and come back to refill time and time again', says McGinnis. Furthermore, the brand reports a focus on reducing unnecessary secondary packaging, such as plastic face-cream applicators and plastic-wrapped boxes, as well as research into alternative ingredients including sugar cane.

Selfridges has long set the standard when it comes to sustainability in beauty: the department store became a microbead-free zone two years ahead of the ban, and single-use water bottles have been banished from the food hall. Even those iconic yellow paper bags are made from repurposed coffee cups.

'Ten years ago you would not have seen as many people carrying their own refillable water bottles or bringing their own bags when grocery shopping. We are now much more aware of the issue of plastic and now need to focus on how we can work to reduce our waste, recycle used products and refill where available', confirms McGinnis.

The Project Ocean Beauty Booth will take up residency in the Accessories Hall for the next six weeks, and it'll have a permanent home online after the campaign - after all, sustainability isn't a one-season trend.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Selfridges Is Making A Big Stand For Sustainable Beauty This Summer

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Let's kick this off with a frankly horrific fact: 8 million tonnes of plastic are being dumped in the ocean every year. Clearly, if there's ever been a time to get serious when it comes to sustainable living, it's now.

# data[].attributes.body
Drapers article that explains the benefits of pop stores.

Key takeaways:
- Flexibility
As a young brand, TALA may not the money to invest in a permanent space. However, a short term space over a weekend doesn't require them to have a long term investment.

[accessed 13.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
A new store has just opened on the corner of Elizabeth Street, in the sought-after Belgravia area of London. Nothing about the store - from the plush dusty rose furnishings to the glittering dresses hung around the space - seems temporary, but a week ago this store was not here, and, in a month's time, it will vanish again completely.

The store is the first pop-up from online peer-to-peer fashion rental start-up Hurr. Shoppers try on dresses in the shop, rent them for a set period and then return them to the store or by post. In 35 days, the brand plans to host 30 events: leveraging its physical location to connect to customers in real life.

Hurr's presence in the street is indicative of the evolving approach to pop-ups from landlords and brands alike. As businesses seek to test out new concepts in physical retail - for as little as a few days to several months - and property companies try to fill voids and revive high streets, a new, flexible relationship is emerging, which has mutual benefits.

The pop-up's popularity is in part a result of the challenges faced by the UK high street. The retail vacancy rate hit a four-year high in September, increasing by 6% year on year for the first half of 2019, Local Data Company reported.Retailers continue to cite falling numbers of shoppers as a reason for declining sales.

With a temporary tenant in place, landlords can avoid having to pay business rates on empty properties. And new retailers bring excitement and lure shoppers back to into local areas - and may also turn into permanent tenants for the landlord.

Both growing and established brands are using pop-ups to test locations and concepts before investing.

In recent months brands including Never Fully Dressed, Castore, Essentiel Antwerp, Mulberry, Blundstone, Dundas, Gap, Barbie and sustainable store Rêve en Vert have all announced or opened pop-up stores - and the momentum behind the concept seems to be growing.

Mutual benefits

" For us [pop-ups] mean added vitality and freshness for the consumer," says Haydn Cooper, property director at property company Cadogan, whose estate encompasses 93 acres in Chelsea.

"This means being very selective about the brands that we work with - ideally, they will be opening their only store in London, bringing excitement and footfall, and looking realistically at committing to a longer-term lease should it prove successful."

"Pop-ups keep our streets interesting," asserts Joanna Lea, director of retail at property company Grosvenor, whose holdings in central London include South Molton Street and Elizabeth Street. " The high street is changing, and [pop-ups] give us access to fresh young talent and a much wider pool of brands."

Lea highlights pop-ups from Instagram influencer The Daily Dress Edit in May, as well as the Hurr pop-up on Elizabeth Street, as examples of how Grosvenor is seeking to evolve the concept. Both are unconventional uses of retail space: a rental store and a curation of brands from an influencer - rather than a traditional retailer. This creates a fresh high street experience for shoppers, she says.

"The struggles for the high street are no secret and I think landlords are becoming more entrepreneurial and realising that people want flexibility in leases and people want to take those spaces for a short amount of time," notes Victoria Prew, founder of Hurr.

She continues: "The way that consumer retail and generally the high street it going to go is all about the experience. That is how to bring consumers back into stores: it's more about creating that experience rather than just pitching product. Pop-ups are all about that immersive experience."

Young ideas

Landlords are becoming increasingly flexible, to appeal to the kind of young, exclusive brands they hope can drive footfall.

The Crown Estate is one company also making use of this approach. Senior asset manager Katrina Mercury highlights Princes Arcade, which links Jermyn Street and Piccadilly, as a key location for pop-ups: brands including Barker shoes and Grenson have pop-up stores in the arcade.

"In that location we took a deliberate decision to try and attract really interesting and innovative brands, so we had to take a more flexible approach," she says. "That really allowed us to welcome independent brands that may have been priced out of the area under other circumstances. Each of them adds another reason for shoppers to visit the area and really brings a bit more diversity to our retail mix.

"We work with brands that we think will help us gain really positive PR and drive footfall."

Under its flexible leases, rather than committing to contracts of several years on stores, terms can range from three days to six months, and retailers have the option to extend. The Crown Estate offers leases either at a fixed price for the term, or as a percentage of turnover. Mercury says at least one brand in the arcade already wants to convert to a longer-term lease.

From a brand and retailer perspective, flexible rents in pop-ups shops provide the ideal opportunity to "try before they buy" with retail - seeking to ensure security with a lower cost, before taking the plunge and investing in a permanent store.

"Fresh young brands want to trial and test before they 'buy'," says Grosvenor's Lea. "If we can make it as easy as possible for them to do that then that is a good thing. If they then they do well, then we can potentially convert them into a longer-term lease. It allows us to build that customer relationship from a very early stage and stay with brands all the way through as they grow."

She gives the example of premium womenswear brand Me + Em, which initially took space in Belgravia on a pop-up basis and has since taken a store on Elizabeth Street. Elsewhere, Essentiel Antwerp's pop-up with Cadogan on the King's Road converted from pop-up to permanent, and luxury sportswear brand Castore have just opened a pop-up on the same road, and are considering converting the space into a permanent store if it is a success.

Premium womenswear brand Rixo - which has hosted a series of pop-ups across London including in Covent Garden, Carnaby Street and currently in King's Road - is also treating pop-ups as a testbed for future plans. Henrietta Rix, co-founder, explains.

"It's been a great way for us to test the market to work out things like footfall and where our customer is truly shopping. We wouldn't have had to chance to do this if we had jumped straight into a permanent space," she says.

"With full-time stores you usually have quite lengthy contracts, huge deposits and bigger overheads, which you don't tend to get with a pop-up, so from that respect they are more cost effective - especially if you are a brand that is just starting out, and still figuring out your customer and where they shop, as well as what physical space and location actually really represents your brand.

"The long-term plan for us is definitely to launch a flagship store in the future, but we want to be absolutely certain it's the right space and location for our customers."

Flexible friendliness

Flexible rents are not the only factor making pop-ups affordable and practical for retailers. Property companies are keen to facilitate the process to harness the mutual benefits of pop-ups.

Grosvenor, for example, launched "Retail Concierge" 18 months ago as part of as innovation strategy. The service for occupiers assists with logistical matters such as fit-outs and utilities management.

"We've done a big piece of work looking at all the pain points faced by pop-up occupiers, who generally have no property experience," says Lea. "We've been trying to look at how we can reduce those barriers to entry and make it easier."

Appear Here, which links landlords with prospective pop-up occupiers, is another company making stores accessible to a wider variety of brands by removing costly and logistically complex arrangements.

Katie Cary, founder and designer at footwear brand Rogue Matilda, opened her pop-up through Appear Here. It runs for two weeks on Sydney Street in Chelsea, London at the end of November 2019. She says the ease of the process enabled her to capitalise much more effectively on the traditional benefits of pop-up stores: brand communication and customer interaction.

"I would still have been able to launch a pop-up without Appear Here, but it would have been a lot more stressful," she says. "What this means is that it has been really enjoyable to organise. I can put time and effort into the more fun, creative side of things, which gives it a much more personal touch. It has freed up my creativity."

"It's really important when you have to have an online brand that everything will immediately come to life. People need to come into the store and get a sense of what the brand is about."

Pop-up shops have a permanent feature of the high street retail property landscape. If landlords and retailers continue to work together, in a flexible and innovative manner, pop-up shops have the potential to give a much-needed sense of excitement to the British high streets and an equally valuable boost for young, innovative brands.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
A new store has just opened on the corner of Elizabeth Street, in the sought-after Belgravia area of London. Nothing about the store - from the plush dusty rose furnishings to the glittering dresses hung around the space - seems temporary, but a week ago this store was not here, and, in a month's time, it will vanish again completely.

# data[].attributes.headline
Completed Merchandising Range Plan - Excel 

# data[].attributes.subject
Completed Merchandising Range Plan - Excel 

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Copy of INP Seasonal Range Plan with VAT - INP 3 (2)

# data[].attributes.body
Through Google, I found several images of TALA labels. This provided me with the information needed to create my own labels. It's important to include the information such as the sustainable message through the text and the material. The labels include small seeds, therefore the labels are plantable, to grow a small TALA plant. In addition, it was interesting that size info, wash care etc is all stitched into each garment. This will minimise need to extra resources, therefore another example of how TALA aim to be as sustainable as possible.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
The brand website provides all the information needed. I can understand the KPI's of sustainability, affordability an inclusivity. Also, I can gain an understanding of previous TALA collections, which will contribute to my decisions regarding assortment mix, colours, size ranges and price architecture.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
#WEARETALA - SLOW FASHION. SUSTAINABLE STYLE.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
TALA is the brand you always knew you wanted but could never quite find. Affordable, sustainable styles without the need to compromise on high-performance pieces and flattering fits.

# data[].attributes.body
Overall, the main takeaway from this comp was that there was one clear message within activewear brands, that is community. Whether it's through the imagery on the website or the experience that customers can have when the visit the store, community plays a huge part in the success of the brand. Therefore, it is imperative that my range continues the message of inclusivity that TALA has created. This can be done throughout the range, from the size range I offer to the concept store that will be held to celebrate the launch.

# data[].attributes.body
"|Fashion’s belated move towards to sustainability is the final factor behind the tie-dye resurgence". The timing of the trend is no coincidence. Tie dye can be directly connected to sustainability. It allows updates to be made to a previously owned item and it is also possible to create within having a negative impact on the environment in comparison to other dyeing processes. Natural or AZO-free dyes can be used within the TALA range. Therefore, as the first print to be introduced to TALA, it seems like a great choice to work in harmony with message of sustainability.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Up until fairly recently, tie-dye was as dead as a doornail. But then Beyoncé wore it on holiday on the beach, Dree Hemingway chose the print for a red-carpet event and Justin Bieber turned up to church wearing it. Cult LA brand The Elder Statesman made it a mainstay of its vibrant, California-inspired collections. Last season, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Stella McCartney and R13 turned it into a catwalk trend and the high street is already making copies. Tie-dye is back.

"It was a huge trend that we saw both on and off the runway and we embraced it from a wide variety of brands,"Net-a-Porter global buying director Elizabeth von der Goltz told us. "T-shirts were our key item; think the Ibiza degrade at Chloé, the purple tie-dye at Paco Rabanne, a bright and vibrant version at R13 and Stella McCartney's oversized T-shirt dresses in pastels colours."

Surfer girl T-shirts might be the obvious and most accessible choice (and doubtlessly the incarnation most favoured by fashion influencers), but it's the evolution of tie-dye that makes it feel fresh for 2019. Proenza Schouler applied the technique to denim, while Prada elevated the famously hippy print by using it on feminine silhouettes such as mini dresses and A-line skirts. Couture fabrics such as duchess satin furthered tie-dye's luxury credentials.

"Historically, tie-dye has a hippie, '70s flower power connotation, whereas the new spring tie-dyes are very modern," says von der Goltz. "From the more sophisticated colour combinations to the more elevated fabrics and the unexpected shapes, the new tie-dye is more elevated and fashion forward."

Selfridges has also bought into the trend in a big way, citing Prada, Balmain and MSGM as standout brands. "Acid washes and bright tones have transformed tie-dye from its hippy roots," says Selfridges womenswear buying manager, Luke Mountain, adding that modern iterations go beyond T-shirts. Tie-dye can be found "splashed across puffer jackets from Shoreditch Ski Club, wool jumpers from Balmain and embellished skirts and dresses at Prada".

While 2019's tie-dye might be worn differently to its '60s hippy origins, its association with laidback counterculture has a relevancy. R13 founder Chris Leba's heavily tie-dyed new collection was an homage to childhood summers spent in Montauk, where every surf shop was dominated by splashes of dyed colour. He believes that the print has a particularly political potency.

"In the Trump era when right-wing politics is so loud, I think tie-dye can be viewed as a peaceful, but defiant protest against conservatives," he told us. "In some ways, there are a lot of similarities in terms of the backdrop then and now. In the 60s, we had Nixon in the White House with students protesting against the conservative right. Now we have Trump in the White House with women, immigrants and the LGBQ community fighting for their rights."

A Sai Ta, the designer behind his eponymous cult London label, agrees. He says his tie-dye-covered spring/summer 2019 collection, available at Dover Street Market, makes him feel "hopeful".

"It's as relevant to the times now as it was in the counter movement of the hippies," he tells us. "It's a reflection of freedom and hope. The tie-dye process always creates unexpected results and its outcome is always uncertain, which I guess is the mood of the times now. The unknown is more present."

Tie-dye might be the year's most woke trend, but another part of its appeal is its individuality. Traditionally, tie-dye is made by tying bunches of fabric with waxed thread, so the dye only covers exposed areas - meaning no two pieces are ever the same. In the '60s and '70s when tie-dye was pervasive, it became a symbol of individuality and creative expression through handmade, rustic versions that didn't cost much.

"This way of designing and dressing allowed complete individuality which can sometimes be lacking in fashion these days," said Kavita Kumari, a specialist print and dye technician at London College of Fashion. "The re-birth of tie-dye has actually provided individuals with the opportunity to reclaim some of their personal identity without looking like clones of one another. Consumerism has significantly shifted and although the fashion market is already saturated, it would appear that variation in fashion is still fairly limited."

At Net-a-Porter, Proenza Schouler's autumn/winter 2018 kaleidoscopic velvet turtleneck sold well, proving that this is a look that goes beyond the summer months usually associated with tie-dye - and once again that it's the hand-spun appeal that makes it popular. "Our customer is always looking for something special and batik and fabric treatments really give the impression of hand-crafted techniques," says von der Goltz.

Fashion's belated move towards to sustainability is the final factor behind the tie-dye resurgence. The industry is changing. More and more companies have pledged to scrap fur (Chanel, Versace and Jean Paul Gaultier included) and an increased number of rising brands have placed ethics at the forefront (Ninety Percent, Lark & Berry and Gabriella Hearst), while the idea of disposable fashion feels outdated and guilt-inducing.

Tie-dye's long-standing ties with artisanal methods and organic materials make it perfect for those who want to righteously wave their woke banner through what they wear.

"The current awareness around buzz words like 'fast-fashion' and sustainability is probably partly responsible for the regeneration of tie-dye in fashion today," said Kumari. "The re-generation and prevalence of tie-dye in 2019 derives from the changes to fashion as an industry. The association of sustainability, eco fashion and natural dyes are great influencers of the way in which tie-dye has re-emerged in fashion today."

So how to wear it now? Selfridges' Luke Mountain says it "works fantastically as a palette cleanser when paired with denim". Von Der Goltz suggests styling "one of Prada's ball skirts with a black bodysuit for evening and a more modern approach, or pair a T-shirt back with denim shorts in the height of summer to channel true LA style". For R13's Chris Leba, it's not quite as didactic. "There is only one way to wear tie dye," he laughs. "Any frickin' way you like because it is, after all, a symbol of individualism."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Tie-dye is back for 2019 and this is why

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Up until fairly recently, tie-dye was as dead as a doornail. But then Beyoncé wore it on holiday on the beach, Dree Hemingway chose the print for a red-carpet event and Justin Bieber turned up to church wearing it. Cult LA brand The Elder Statesman made it a mainstay of its vibrant, California-inspired collections.

# data[].attributes.body
Article featuring TALA demonstrating their successes:

"When TALA launched in May 2019, her first set of clothes sold out in 20 minutes, with a new collection of over 20,000 units selling out online last week.

She’s aware of her young fan base and says one of her biggest achievements so far is “matching those bigger fast fashion brands by making prices under £35–40.”

[accessed 06.02.20]

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 13.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Generation Z is taking over. In fact, by 2020 they will make up 40% of all customers.

As digital natives, Gen Z are unique in that they have never known life without digital technologies like smartphones and social media. This shift has transformed the way we communicate, connect and market with one of the fastest growing consumer markets in the world.

So how can brands engage with this new generation of customers? In this article, we explore 9 ways Gen Z are changing consumerism and how brands and industries can cater to them.

Gen Z is known for being empowered and active social media users. The generation freely communicates, networks, and reviews and connects brands online with 53% being influenced by comments made on social media.

Given their activity and reach in the social space, Gen Z has become an influential and important customer cohort for brands. This pushes marketers to shift content creation to cater to a more interactive demographic. While they still interact with content that millennials like - e.g. articles and videos - Gen Z wants more from brands, specifically on social media.

Changes in interaction may mean relying more heavily on polls, and quizzes or responding with customization to comments and chats. Additionally, Gen Z likes user-generated content due to growing up in the Yelp and Amazon era. This means the demographic wouldn't think of purchasing anything without conversation points and reviews guiding their decisions.

Without hundreds of reference points, reviews, photos and videos, a product may be easily dismissed or overlooked by more popular counterpoints.

The rise of social media influencers on Instagram is not by accident. Did you know that 63% of Gen Z customers prefer to see 'real people' in ads whereas only 37% of millennials feel the same?

As a result, " Insta-famous" accounts are goldmines for brands. Fashion models, world travelers and gym rats, with seemingly normal lives, are becoming the face of the platform and consumerism. Brands are leveraging these Instagram accounts for the users' large network of followers as well as their authenticity.

Noelle Downing, is an example of a fashion blogger who has reached the 'insta-famous' level. Because of her fame, Downing landed a sponsorship from Uber. As you can see in a recent post, Downing promotes Uber's safety and reliability to her more than 191,000 and earned nearly 7,000 likes.

Businesses should note that Gen Z accepts celebrity endorsements, but only if they are transparent about their advertising motives.

At one point, many marketers became baffled when they realized that the millennial attention span averaged 12 seconds. Well, brace yourself...

The attention span of Gen Z consumers is currently measured at only 8 seconds.

This means it's even more important to get to the point with your marketing message in engaging with this cohort. One way of keeping this generation interested is to take advantage of visuals instead of plain text - especially long-form text.

In an ever-changing Internet age, short-form writing is an essential skill. To accomplish this marketer must spice their content with visual elements like:

Additionally, new phrases and acronyms will help marketers reach the brevity. To drive engagement it's key to be up to speed with how Gen Z communicate and the references that will engage them.

Gen Zers are also more broadly progressive than generations of the past. To start, they are the most ethnically diverse generation in US history. By the time Gen Z stops being born, they will be comprised of 47% ethnic minorities.

Additionally, they are defined by 'fluid personal identities', which according to Forbes, means breaking from traditional forms. Furthermore, according to JWT Intelligence, only 48% identify as exclusively heterosexual as compared to 65% of millennials, and only 44% say they always buy clothes designed for their own gender, compared with 54% of millennials.

Additionally, they can also be defined as the Pluralist Generatio n - they have conviction in diverse races and religions and believe people can coexist in society.

To brand to this modern generation, luxury brands are moving away from the so-called culture of 'exclusion' to coincide with the new face of consumerism. Rather than zeroing in on limited access to the product, and deliberately detaching from communications, brands like Hermès, Revolve and Supreme are working to be more inclusive, engaging and open.

In order to do this, Olga Pancenko, COO and VP of marketing for PERRIN PARIS, recommends the following:

1. Never interfere with your network. Don't limit it, allow it to thrive. Which is what Supreme has achieved with its viral success.

2. Don't try to give the impression of engaging your audience-just engage them. This means using customers, employees and real people as the face of the brand, and using media to engage fans with product-related decisions.

Last but not the least, try to sell experiences. For instance, Revolve uses insta-famous fashion and travel bloggers to not only sell outfits but experiences as well. They often use #revolvearoundtheworld as their hashtag.

Even though Gen Z are digital natives-and versatile with many devices-they are mobile first.

In fact, PopSugar estimates they are twice as likely to shop on a mobile than millennials. As such, mobile devices like smartphones and tablets should be the focal point of your brand's digital front for optimal engagement.

But, being mobile-friendly doesn't necessarily mean a presence is all that matters. Part of a truly comprehensive mobile strategy is a good user experience (UX).

As Gen Zers have grown up with digital, they know good UX when they see it. To accomplish this consider short sentences rather than paragraphs. Use subheads and bullet points more often, add more white space for easily navigable pages and be diligent with mobile interface design.

Gen Z basically grew up with YouTube, and as it turns out, it is still the favored website of the generation, meaning they are more likely to use the platform than others such as Facebook or Instagram. In addition, the cohort sees email as outdated being three times likely to open a chat message and 1 in 5 stating that Snapchat influences their purchase decisions - double their millennial counterparts.

Finding the right channel is only part of the equation, pitching the right message is also crucial.

Sprint Mobile, has devoted time and energy to connecting correctly with a younger generation. To do this they formed Candybar, which is a team of Generation Z and Millennial employees who now run Sprint's youth marketing division. One of the first campaigns Candybar launched was the #LiveUnlimited Sprint campaign, which was entirely digital and leveraged social media influencers rather than actors.

The campaign's focus was on creating and giving more than promoting the brand and taking consumer dollars. For example, incentives for interacting with the campaign such as:

Free subscriptions to Tidal so they could listen to the new Jay-Z album

Sponsored YouTube videos from favorite influencers

At the core of the promotion, Sprint aimed to bring awareness to their new business structure which redefined its service to provide unlimited data and texting, two features deemed important by Gen Z

Research has found, the more personal and special this interaction gets, the more loyalty and excitement the customer will show.

Over the last few years, brands have become accustomed to the messaging millennials prefer.

Marketing teams have zeroed in on the key talking points like experience over material objects. Life is about taking risks while job hopping is the new professional normal.

And because Gen Z and millennials are so close in age, and grew up with similar technological exposure, there is bound to be overlap in the messaging, right? Unfortunately, that's not the case.

According to a recent poll comparing the two generations, it turns out the demographics have many opposing views on a number of subjects.

Gen Zers are less likely to take risks, seeking stability and security in their jobs and finances. They are also less likely to prioritize a work-life balance, with only 38% of Gen Zers saying it's important compared to nearly half of millennials.

Additionally, Gen Zers are more likely to care about their personal income than millennials, which is great for marketers - perhaps the new generation will have more discretionary income.

Changing the messaging to accommodate new personal goals of the generation will help reshape the message to a changing customer base.

EdTech is a fast-growing vertical, and one that Gen Z is quite familiar with. Schooling is commonly blended between in-class and online curriculum, which has transformed the way the generation learns.

In fact, as INC points out, 33% of Gen Z prefer to watch their lessons online, while 32% choose to collaborate with their classmates via the Internet.

Online research tendencies reach further than the classroom. Gen Z can research themselves out of virtually anything, from classroom to product inquiries.

What that means for brands, they are researching you more than ever. Having a strong online presence and digital reputation will be the key drivers when it comes to marketing for the cohort.

93% of Gen Zers say their decision to work in a company is greatly influenced by the organization's impact on society. And, to prove their point, 30% of Generation Z claim they are willing to receive a 10-20% pay reduction just to work with a company that shares their causes.

Gen Z's social involvement goes beyond the workplace.

Growing up in the wake of the climate change debates and countless government scandals, Gen Z has been alive for some of the most horrific acts of gun violence and risen above to speak about it - consider the Emma Gonzalez and the Parkland kids, for instance. The movement and progress can't be ignored.

By projecting this sense of contribution and caring in your brand, Gen Z may be more susceptible to interaction.

The insights we have about Gen Z may be robust at the moment, but they are anything but complete.

Gen Z is bound to evolve and surprise us in the years to come. After all, the mentality and purchasing patterns of Gen Z are still developing. Many of those within the demographic are in their teens, but the generation is also just embarking on their childhood.

Time will tell how brands can truly cater to this changing consumer. But the key for companies is to be aware of the growing cohort and start catering for their needs and interests to stay relevant and competitive.

Senior Content Specialist

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Changing Customer: How to Cater to Gen Z

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
​Generation Z is taking over. In fact, by 2020 they will make up 40% of all consumers. As digital natives, Gen Z are unique in that they have never known life without digital technologies like smartphones and social media.

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Everyone talks about what makes millennials tick or how to market to them, so we forget they're old news. Sure, we'll still need to market to millenials for years to come, but it's time to start focusing on Generation Z.

At first glance, millennials and Gen Z might seem very similar. But if you look a little deeper, you start to see the subtle differences between the two generations-and these subtle differences are important to us marketers.

If you want to build your Gen Z customer base, then read on to learn the five ways you can successfully tweak your digital marketing strategy to tailor it for this younger audience. Here's a preview of our top five strategies for marketing to Generation Z:

1. Sell experiences, not products

2. Video, video, video

3. Rethink that major influencer campaign

4. Engage with customers

5. Highlight your dedication to privacy

Who are Generation Z?

Before we can even begin to think about creating a digital marketing strategy, we first need to define Generation Z. Let's look at some Gen Z characteristics and stats:

Also referred to as the iGeneration, Generation Z covers anyone who was born between 1995 to the mid 2000s, and this demographic makes up 32% of the global population. Digitally savvy, they grew up with mobiles and iPads, and they don't remember a time before the internet-unlike millennials.

The attention span of a Gen Zer is just eight seconds-that's four seconds less than their millennial counterparts. So first impressions really do count. You either grab their attention in that short space of time, or you'll be forgotten forever.

If your target market is Generation Z, then try these five strategies to increase brand awareness, leads, and sales.

1. Sell experiences, not products

Members of Gen Z aren't interested in hard sells. Because they've grown up with the internet, they're immune to obvious marketing campaigns. They don't want to hear about why your product is so amazing; they want to know how it will benefit them. More specifically, what experience will your product bring them?

According to Mention, 25% of what you sell is your product. The additional 75% is the intangible feeling that comes with said product.

Think about Brandy Melville. You'd never know they were Italian, given the chilled, California vibes they project, but that's because they're really good at selling the experiences their clothes bring.

Sure, their clothes are cheap, cute, and come in one size only (a UK 6-8). But why do Gen Zers buy into their brand? Because they, too, will have access to that all-American lifestyle projected across Brandy Melville's marketing channels. Just take a look at their Instagram, featuring Insta models at the beach or on endless US road trips, and you'll see exactly what I mean.

2. Video, video, video

Video content is key. A Google Survey revealed that YouTube is the first platform Generation Z turn to when they want to be cheered up or entertained.

But that's not the only thing they use YouTube for. With 85% of teenagers actively using the platform, 80% do so to expand their knowledge, and 68% to improve or gain new skills. Other respondents said they used it to take a break from life's stresses and deepen real-life connections, so ultimately there's no end of use for YouTube.

With Gen Z a captive audience on YouTube, it's the perfect place to hook them in-but it's crucial you get it right.

Take Red Bull as an example. With over 8 million subscribers on its YouTube channel, Red Bull has several playlists, including a series called Red Bull Travel Vlogs. Collaborating with vloggers, Red Bull regularly posts active lifestyle videos with everything from skydiving over Lake Tahoe to base jumping the Italian Alps.

Remember my previous point of selling experiences and not products? Red Bull is a prime example. Never do these videos ever show a can of Red Bull, but the YouTube channel hints that if you buy the products, you too will have the drive and energy to travel the world, doing all of those adventurous, crazy things the vloggers do.

And YouTube isn't the only place for video content: Instagram is huge, especially with Instagram Stories, and your website needs video content, too.

3. Rethink that major influencer campaign

In 2018, it was predicted that brands would spend $1.8 billion on Instagram influencers, with more than 14.5 million sponsored posts, and counting.

Sponsored posts could cost your business anywhere between £35 and £700,000, depending on who you collaborate with.

The top influencers of 2019 are Cristiano Ronaldo, Ariana Grande and Selena Gomez, but for the majority of brands, collaborating with a celebrity is highly unlikely-and that's not a bad thing.

If you do want to go down the influencer route, then opt for micro-influencers instead. Defined as anyone who has a following of between 1,000 and 100,000 on social media, micro-influencers actually drive more engagement than their celebrity counterparts because Gen Z can relate to them. Stats show that once you've gained more than 100,000 followers, engagement levels tend to drop (and we'll talk about how Gen Zers feel about engagement in just a minute).

Micro-influencers drive 60% higher engagement levels and 22.2% more weekly conversions-in addition to being 6.7x more cost efficient per engagement compared to influencers with larger followings.

And if you're continuing with your carefully curated, staged images on Instagram, then think again. While millennials bought into the perfectly placed lattes and poses by aesthetically-pleasing walls, Gen Z are ditching brands that showcase this in favour of a more unfiltered, messier approach.

One brand using micro-influencers on social, is e.l.f. Cosmetics through their Beautyscape campaign. These events enable influencers to meet with each other, try out the latest products and learn new beauty techniques, which they share with their followers on Instagram, of course.

4. Engage with customers

We're all aware of the importance reviews plays in building brand trust, but this is absolutely crucial if your target market is Generation Z.

In fact, 76% of Gen Zers have stated they want brands to respond to feedback and view this responsiveness as key to determining the authenticity of a brand.

41% of this generation read at least five online reviews before making a purchase, and they share twice as much positive feedback than negative-so you want to build your number of reviews.

However, obtaining those reviews is just one step-you need to reply to them. If it's positive feedback, then tailor your response so potential customers can see it's not just a one-size-fits-all reply.

It goes without saying you should respond to negative feedback, too; you need to show readers that you have acknowledged the issue and are doing everything you can to resolve it.

Twitter remains a top place for complaints, and ASOS has mastered it by creating a separate account so customers know where they can get a response-that doesn't ruin the business's official account.

5. Highlight your dedication to privacy

Research from NGen found that 88% of Gen Zers agreed with the statement: "Protecting my privacy is very important to me."

A survey by IBM found that less than a third of teens are comfortable with sharing their personal details online, aside from contact information and purchase history. Yet, that same study found that 61% said they'd feel better sharing this personal information, if they trusted the brand would securely protect it.

So, if you're targeting a Gen Z audience, take note of this. When you ask to collect information, do so with transparency, and openly highlight your commitment to ensuring their data remains safe and secure.

Boost brand loyalty by marketing to Gen Z

While millennials and Generation Z might seem similar, if you scratch the surface, and you'll see there is more than what meets the eye.

If your target market includes the younger of the two generations, then by tweaking your digital marketing strategy to incorporate the tips above, you can boost brand trust and loyalty with your Gen Z audience.
About the author
Elle Pollicott is a content specialist at digital marketing agency Hallam. Elle has over five years of experience in digital marketing, with a particular focus on content and SEO. Having worked both in house and on the agency side, she has experience in creating and implementing SEO and content strategies for both B2B and B2C clients in a range of industries, including fashion, finance, travel and property.As a content specialist, Elle works with both the SEO and the PR teams, creating and implementing content strategies that get clients to rank higher organically, in addition to larger content marketing campaigns for outreach.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
5 Essential Strategies for Marketing to Generation Z

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Marketing to Generation Z might seem like tomorrow's problem, but this demographic makes up almost a third of the global population today! Here are five strategies you can use to reach this audience now, from selling experiences to stressing privacy and more...

# data[].attributes.body
Drapers article that discusses the future of online retail:
"Ecommerce is expected to account for 53% of retail sales by 2028".
Therefore, it can be suggested that TALA are in the right place, online.

[accessed 16.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Ecommerce is expected to account for 53% of retail sales by 2028, the report by analyst Retail Economics for law firm Womble Bond Dickinson suggests. This is more than double the 19.2% of sales that occur online at present.

The report, The Digital Tipping Point, found one of the main causes of this shift in spend to be the increase in Generation Z and millennial shoppers, who spend the most online.

By 2029 these generations will account for more than half of the adult population, compared with 39% in 2019, and will provide the bulk of spending.

Splitting consumers into age groups, the report found that, currently, those aged between 25 and 34 accounted for the largest clothing spend online (35.7%), and those aged 45 to 54 were responsible for the largest online footwear spend (35.1%).

After books, clothing was the largest product category contributing to online retail sales.

Other contributing factors to online doubling its share in the retail market, were found to be changes in the property market, improvements in connectivity and innovate technology.

Richard Lim of Retail Economics said: "Despite concurrent waves of political and economic upheaval in our midst, our work with retailers suggest this is a mere distraction from the seismic structural shifts reshaping the retail landscape.

"New and emerging technologies will empower further online growth as artificial intelligence and 5G dovetail to enhance retailers' capabilities for speedier and cheaper online fulfilment, including in-home delivery. Meanwhile, innovative new retail business models will emerge. Subscriptions, auto-replenishment and fewer (but more experiential) stores will drive online sales to heights where online will become the largest channel within the next 10 years.

"Successful retailers have always had to reinvent themselves to stay relevant. However, the pace of change will inevitably prove too fast for many. While the impact of future technologies and consumer acceptance is highly uncertain, it definitely feels like the digital retail revolution is only just getting started."

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Ecommerce is expected to account for 53% of retail sales by 2028, the report by analyst Retail Economics for law firm Womble Bond Dickinson suggests. This is more than double the 19.2% of sales that occur online at present.

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 13.02.20]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
When Vogue Australia quietly hit the newsstands in its home country and abroad earlier this month, its theme, which as recently as three years ago would have raised eyebrows among serious fashion-watchers, caused nary a ripple of controversy. Entitled "Designing Our Future," and guest edited by Emma Watson, the fashion bible's most recent edition is completely sustainability-focused, with features on pioneers like Tim Flannery discussing the Great Barrier Reef and Stella McCartney touting sustainable style.

The issue comes at a pivotal time-2018 has already proven to be a year when silenced voices ring out...and it is only April. Cause-related fashion first hit the scene when McCartney launched her fur-free, leather-free business in the early 2000s. Although there were millions of skeptics at first, over the last 15 years ethical fashion - developing, producing and distributing apparel, accessories and footwear in a way that preserves the planet and its inhabitants - has become not only an integral part of the industry, but also a key strategic initiative of many big and small players. As the commercial advantage of brands investing in ethical fashion becomes increasingly evident, companies from Walmart to Gucci have evolved their missions to align with the shifting landscape. No longer just about being eco-friendly, over the coming months and years we will see this trend accelerate and expand to include concern for human and animal rights, community, country, and more.
Young Consumers Are Changing the Game
Brands and retailers are taking this responsibility seriously, encouraged by younger consumers who, it turns out, are more conscious than any generation before it of the origins, composition, carbon footprint, and other consequences of what they purchase and wear. Numerous studies done in the past few years have confirmed that upwards of 65-70 percent of consumers under 35 around the world report that they will choose brands or retailers based on their ethical practices. A 2016 Morgan Stanley Research survey done in the U.K. found that when choosing among retailers, more than half of young consumers find ethical credentials somewhat or very important. These buyers are changing the game for brands, and we will continue to see more attention paid to sourcing factors, as the rapid growth of many new entrants to the fashion scene built on this pillar have demonstrated.

Hugely successful Everlane, one of the first nextgen apparel brands to give detailed information about the factories, costs and raw materials sources for its clothing, was ridiculed early on by industry veterans for its naïveté. Since then, many others, including some large traditional brands like Gap and Levi's, have included sourcing transparency in the information they share with consumers.

Stockholm-based Swedish Stockings has bucked the decline in the hosiery business by making its sheers and tights entirely of eco-friendly recycled yarns and using recycled purified water and renewable energy sources in its closed-loop production system.

While it would be wonderful if this new generation of consumers could see to it that climate change, human rights violations and irresponsible use of resources grind to a halt on planet Earth, many difficult obstacles exist, from finding a consistent definition of ethical fashion to managing supply chains to communicating with consumers. A focus on any of these areas, which tends to add cost to product development and production, must be undertaken carefully by a brand to ensure that the view is worth the climb.

What Does "Ethical" Mean?

One of the first steps a company should take to participate in responsible fashion is to try to cut through all the noise about what ethical and sustainability even mean to them and to their consumers. Does a sustainable garment need to be made of recycled materials, or is being organic sufficient? Where does responsible use of resources like energy, chemicals and water fit into the values hierarchy? And what about animals - do consumers want ethical treatment of animals, like Canada Goose requires in its traceable down-filled and fur-trimmed jackets, or is it better to make animal-free products, like Stella McCartney and handbag brand Matt and Nat? How important-or feasible- is it to ensure that suppliers' employees are paid fairly and have a safe and healthy work environment? And what is the best way to make sure your company is following best practices?

Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli pays his employees a premium above the going rate and takes a lower markup than most of his luxury brand competitors, makes sure his company's practices preserve the environment, and ensures that the cashmere and other raw materials he sources from Mongolia, India and elsewhere are obtained in a sustainable and fair-trade manner.

Big-box retailers are finding that small things can make a big difference. Costco added windows to and dimmed the lights in its stores, and regularly revises transportation strategies to improve energy efficiency and reduce carbon footprint.

Though few millennials would think about Walmart and sustainability in the same idea, the Bentonville behemoth has the scale, and therefore the ability, to save more natural resources than any other company in the industry in its effort to sell products that are sourced and produced with people and planet in mind. It uses recyclable materials in the packaging of all its private label products, and its Project Gigaton, which helps suppliers reduce emissions, is on track to reduce greenhouse gases by one billion tons by 2030, three times the amount produced by California in a year, or the equivalent of taking 211 million cars off U.S. highways for a year.

A growing number of brands believe that ethical conduct, like charity, begins at home. Bombas, a New York-based sock brand, gives away a pair of socks to a homeless shelter for every pair it sells. Made in USA Success story American Giant, whose fans call its $89 classic zipped hooded sweatshirt the best hoodie ever made, appeals to those who want to help U.S. industry survive and thrive.
Expanding the Narrative
Enabled by technology and increased access to consumers through e-commerce and social media platforms, marketers are embarking on education and awareness-building campaigns, expanding their narrative and sharing much more about how products come to be. We will see more information about the industry being shared with consumers as the landscape evolves towards a more sustainable and ethical future.

Rag & Bone and AYR are two lifestyle brands proud of their fair-trade supply policies. Yoga brand Prana has gained tremendous traction since evolving entirely to organic cotton and recycled wool and other fibers. Its website and shops contain a wealth of information about the materials it uses and company-wide fair-trade sustainability practices.

Patagonia, considered by many the poster child for environmental and social responsibility, has as its brand mission statement, "Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis." It is fair-trade certified for all its sewing product, and publicly discloses its first-tier suppliers. The company prides itself on its long-lasting products, and founder Yvon Chouinard encourages consumers not to buy unnecessary amounts of clothes, and has been wearing some of the same Patagonia pieces for a decade.
Putting the Brakes on Fast Fashion
An issue getting a lot of airtime these days is the sheer amount of waste humans create and fail to handle properly. A startling McKinsey 2016 report revealed that nearly three-fifths of all clothing ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made. The same report found that the number of garments produced each year has doubled since 2000, exceeding 100 billion for the first time since 2014, or 14 new clothing items for every person on earth.

Consumers are re-examining their tendency to over-buy and under-wear apparel. There is a growing backlash against Fast Fashion and the Disposable Apparel phenomenon. The philosophy of LA-based YSTR is to minimize waste through a creative purchasing process. Every piece is made to order, and their new model is a capsule "slow fashion" subscription, where the consumer can preview styles, order, and wait for items to arrive. The creation of clothing in small batches does away with the waste of creating too many items that go unpurchased.

Fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara are trying to diminish the black and white nature of cheaper versus environmentally-friendly purchases. In early 2017, both pulled out of the annual Dhaka Apparel Summit, sending a message that they will join efforts to pressure Bangladesh into ending poor working conditions and human rights violations in their garment industry. Zara parent Inditex reportedly has a team of 150 sustainability professionals.
Born-Again Fashion
Environmentalists are praising companies that promote the sharing of clothing, like "Rent the Runway," to reduce the waste accumulated by dresses and outfits, particularly special occasion styles, that tend to be worn only once or twice. Resale sites such as Poshmark, The RealReal and ThredUp have scaled rapidly, appealing to both buyers seeking value and sellers who want to monetize items they no longer want.

The affordable LA-based, eco-conscious label Reformation has earned a growing following by being endorsed by celebrities like Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss. Reformation began by selling re-worked vintage pieces in 2009, and now sells everything from party dresses to casual everyday pieces. Everything produced by Reformation is made at the brand's factory with sustainable fabrics and methods.
Will Consumers Pay More?
It's a tough call to say whether or not consumers, in addition to spending more time and effort to seek out brands and products that were produced responsibly, will also pay extra for the privilege of buying them.

Purchasing one high-quality t-shirt that was ethically sourced, will last for three years, but cost forty dollars could be a far sounder choice than buying one for $15 that will last six months, but how many consumers will make that decision while shopping? Although studies citing consumer willingness to pay more for better quality products abound, there is insufficient data so far to confirm that they're actually doing so. It could turn out that ethical practices become a price of entry for brands and retailers that want to do business with savvy young consumers.

Late last year, in a very public announcement accompanied by representatives from the Humane Society and Fur-Free Alliance, Gucci said it was replacing the kangaroo fur in its popular fur-lined loafers with more-ethical shearling. Although the material changed, the price of the shoes, at a cool $995, didn't.

While Gucci's gesture was a success, taking the ethical route doesn't necessarily guarantee a following. Zady, a high-profile sustainable fashion e-commerce brand worn by Emma Watson recently closed down its site, no doubt a victim to the higher costs and intensified competition in the e-commerce space.

How Are Brands Ensuring Ethical Production Processes Are Being Followed?

Fashion products are produced in a very complex supply chain in which many transgressions can hide. Although improvements in sourcing transparency, labeling and compliance have been made in the past several years, it's hard for brands and retailers to truly know for sure where, how and of what their products are made. They can't visit every factory, or look over their agents' shoulders every second, to make sure their demands are being met.

Although compliance efforts have increased dramatically in recent years, cheating has, as well. At the same time, however, there has been a rise in companies partnering with Bluesign, Oekotex and other firms that certify compliance with standards. The Textile Exchange, ClimateWorks, Ethical Fashion Forum and many, many other organizations are advancing thought leadership and progress in these areas. Each year, a growing number of conferences, leadership initiatives and campaigns are being launched to advance progress in these areas.

No longer just a side project for a staff person with not enough to do, sustainability and ethical practices are now becoming line management responsibilities. Kering's CSO, or Chief Sustainability Officer, drives a results-oriented approach at the luxury goods giant. Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger parent PVH has placed the responsibility of environmental and human rights stewardship under its Chief Risk Officer.
Faux-Pas
What happened to Missguided, a brand popular for its ethical sourcing promise and female empowerment vibe, could serve as a cautionary tale. Last year the Humane Society International discovered cat fur on a pair of the brand's high heels. Dog and cat fur have been banned for use in clothing across the European Union since 2009, which means that the shoes had been sourced illegally. It turns out that real fur is cheaper to source than faux fur in some Asian countries, opening the door for suppliers to switch to the more economical option.

Further complicating the fur issue is that much of the faux fur on the market is made from non-biodegradable and chemical-laden synthetic fibers and other materials such as nylon, acrylic, and polyester. Similarly, many fake leather products are made from plastic materials that are non-biodegradable and produced using toxic chemicals that not only have a negative impact on the environment, but they could have detrimental effects on the factory workers that helped produce the items. By blindly choosing to be good to our four-legged friends, a designer might be harming people and planet. As consumers become more educated and savvy about the true impacts of the materials they wear, brands must be more careful about their raw materials choices.

Stepping into the world of ethical fashion is not without its potential pitfalls, but the all-powerful consumer will increasingly set the bar higher, demanding that companies behave responsibly and according to a shared set of values. Brands rising to meet those expectations could find that the view is every bit worth the climb.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Beyond Sustainable: The Growing Demand for Ethical Fashion - The Robin Report

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
When Vogue Australia quietly hit the newsstands in its home country and abroad earlier this month, its theme, which as recently as three years ago would have raised eyebrows among serious fashion-watchers, caused nary a ripple of controversy.

# data[].attributes.body
[accessed 16.02.20]