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Akikoaoki | Ready-to-Wear - Spring 2018 | Look 12

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INXX Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2019 Shanghai - NOWFASHION | Fashion, Streetwear fashion, Chinese fashion street

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Aug 24, 2020 - Discover NOWFASHION, the first real time fashion photography magazine to publish exclusive live fashion shows. Get to see the latest fashion runways in streaming!

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vivienne westwood collection about lingerie

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vivienne westwood collection about lingerie

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The 18th-Century Inspiration of Vivienne Westwood’s Collections Revisited — CoutureNotebook | Vivienne westwood tops, Vivienne westwood designs, Vivienne westwood

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May 26, 2020 - Vivienne Westwood   has often riffed on period clothing and costumes, from the pirate shirt to the corset and crinoline, subverting them to create designs firmly anchored in her time and place, yet full of historical and cultural references. This ongoing dialogue with the past started with her very

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Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show

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Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show

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With the Fashion & Textiles Museum (Screenshot of My Questions)
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By Christopher Morency November 25, 2017 05:24

COPENHAGEN, Denmark - Since founding her girlish namesake label three years ago, Cecilie Bahnsen has been influenced by the more traditional notion of femininity. Now four seasons in, the Copenhagen-based designer
is stocked at influential global stockists including Dover Street Market, SSENSE and Lane Crawford. In March, the label was selected as a finalist for the LVMH Prize.

"It's a combination of a more decadent universe with a more minimalist one," says Bahnsen about her line's sculptural aesthetic. "I felt there was space to do a new take on femininity [like a] ruffled dress with boots or trainers," she adds, referring to her latest Spring/Summer 2018 collection.

Born just outside of Copenhagen, Bahnsen attended the Danish Design School where she met designer Anja Vang Krag, whom she became first assistant to in 2007. Under the Danish designer, Bahnsen worked on freelance projects for Christian Dior as well as the Royal Danish Theatre. "Working with [Anja] was super exciting and [after] seeing the level of craftsmanship, I was determined to get going," says Bahnsen.

Upon completing her BA in 2007, she took on a design internship at John Galliano in Paris, where she was later hired as a first line assistant and print designer, before applying for the prestigious womenswear MA at the Royal College of Art in London, graduating in 2010.

View Collection
"I always knew that I wanted to get as much experience as possible before starting my own company," says the designer, who became a design assistant at in 2011. "I learned a lot about craftsmanship, detailing and that you shouldn't be afraid to be feminine and romantic in your approach, which for me is so important to carry on in my brand today... but also to mix it with the minimalistic Scandinavian aesthetic that I grew up with."

Having always dreamt of starting her own line, now feeling experienced enough, Bahnsen started designing her brand's first collection in June 2015, back in Denmark. Her debut Spring/Summer 2016 collection was exclusively stocked in Dover Street Market after she was discovered by one of the store's buyers in a showroom during London Fashion Week.

By February 2017, she was showing her first runway collection during Copenhagen Fashion Week at the city's modern opera house - following her Danish Design Fashion Award win, which sponsored her debut show. "Having the unique opportunity to pick the venue, the models and curate the whole universe around the brand was very important," says Bahsen, who became a finalist for the 2017 LVMH Prize shortly after.

For her second show in August, Bahnsen chose Copenhagen's Galleri Nicolai Wallner as the setting of her Spring/Summer 2018 collection during which 22 models walked down the runway in the brand's quilted silk fencing blouses for $830, signature embroidered baby doll dresses for $1,765 and fishnet smocks strewn with velvet ribbon bows for $1,920. The collection was aligned with the designer's desire to create grown-up for the kind of girl who "could be Peggy Guggenheim's niece" at an art gallery or on a school trip.

Despite only having one employee on sales and one design assistant - the brand outsources its production - and each garment being hand-made, Bahnsen is rapidly growing the number of doors her label is stocked in. Between its Spring/Summer 2017 and Spring/Summer 2018 seasons, the brand's stockists grew from seven to 22. "We're really running at full speed [but] our focus is looking after our stores and see what we can do to show the story of the brand, like pop-up installations," explains the designer.

Looking forward, Bahnsen is eyeing international expansion. To start, she is launching a debut pre-fall collection this season, with the introduction of categories like footwear, bags and jewellery to follow further along the line. "What we show on the catwalk would then really be what you can get in the stores," says Bahnsen. "After, we can hopefully show internationally and [show the brand] in London in September 2018."
Related Articles: Is the 'Copenhagen Girl' Denmark's Next Big Export? Marine Serre's Elegant Sportswear Disruptions Wendelborn's Eclectic Woman

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By Christopher Morency November 25, 2017 05:24 COPENHAGEN, Denmark - Since founding her girlish namesake label three years ago, Cecilie Bahnsen has been influenced by the more traditional notion of femininity. Now four seasons in, the Copenhagen-based designer is stocked at influential global stockists including Dover Street Market, SSENSE and Lane Crawford.

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Every product on this page was chosen by a Harper's BAZAAR editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy.

The fashion-forward ladies you may not be following yet but should be on your radar.

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The Most Stylish Instagrams to Follow Now

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Every product on this page was chosen by a Harper's BAZAAR editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy. The fashion-forward ladies you may not be following yet but should be on your radar.

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xiuyi fan3

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Enchanting women’s clothing, lingerie & more

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From dresses for everyday to dresses for the big day—we make clothing, sexy lingerie, and more for the vibrant muse.

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 Thierry Mugler created this downright sexy Metropolis-inspired she-robot costume.

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 Thierry Mugler created this downright sexy Metropolis-inspired she-robot costume.

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The experience of quarantine has had profound physical implications. Designers have responded with clothes that address corporal needs: the masks that few of us even considered a year ago, the glut of sweatpants and leggings, loungewear. But what about our mental needs? Fleece feels good, but what about our feelings?

As she worked on her new spring collection Maria Cornejo found herself casting forward-"dreaming," as she put it- about a time later this year when the world starts opening up again: when our social lives will include dinners in crowded restaurants and hours spent on dance floors, not just socially distanced walks.

The back half of her new lineup showcases the results of that dreaming. There is a Bowie-as in David-jacquard whose iridescent whorls change color depending on the angle you look at it; there is a panné velvet with a metallic glint, and there is even a viscose jacquard with a subtle but unmistakable disco ball motif. These fabrics qualify as a fairly major departure for Cornejo, whose aesthetic usually leans earthier and artsier. But they're an entirely welcome one. On a rare COVID-19-time showroom visit, they were a powerful magnet, as rewarding to touch as they were to look at.

Cornejo reports that, yes, sweatshirting and denim have been performing well for her during the pandemic, and she's expanded and elaborated on both categories here. The muscle tee sweatshirts will be fun to wear; ditto the black eco-denim jumpsuit with white contrast stitching. "It's what people are going to want," she said of the easy pieces, adding that the majority of the collection is daywear, much of it made responsibly, from sweaters in recycled cashmere to outerwear in wool upcycled from her archives.

"Personally though, I want to dress up again," she continued. It's just a feeling, but here's betting she's not the only one.

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Zero + Maria Cornejo Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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The experience of quarantine has had profound physical implications. Designers have responded with clothes that address corporal needs: the masks that few of us even considered a year ago, the glut of sweatpants and leggings, loungewear. But what about our mental needs? Fleece feels good, but what about our feelings?

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Watts of Westminster historic wallpaper pattern in contemporary colours

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Watts of Westminster historic wallpaper pattern in contemporary colours

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For most people, putting together an outfit means considering how the outermost layers of clothing complement each other. Far less thought, if any at all, is spent on the pieces no one else can see (save maybe a lucky partner). But for lingerie designer and entrepreneur Kristin Prim, the hidden bits are the most vital part of a look. "I don't love fashion, which is pretty funny," she says when we stop by her Brooklyn apartment to dig through her lingerie collection and wardrobe. "I don't look at runways; I love a very particular type of fashion that empowers women. And the same with lingerie. I own a very particular type of lingerie. So honing on both of those kind of sectors in fashion and luxury is how I ended up here."

As we discover combing through her racks of structured blazers, Victorian-style blouses, and, of course, her many drawers of bras and sets, Prim is no stranger to the power of an all-black ensemble. She's an avid collector of lace and silk Agent Provocateur, as well as glam Italian designers like Versace, Valentino, and Armani. And despite her petite frame, her style always conveys a sense of quiet power-like a woman who knows what she wants and never apologizes for it.

Although she's still in her early 20s, the New York native has already had the type of career aspiring creatives dream about. She launched a print fashion magazine, Prim, when she was 14 (!!), an art book a few years later, and an advisory website that featured everyone from Janet Mock to Moby. Now at the helm of her own brand, Lenoir, Prim is championing the growing movement of lingerie made for women by women. "I wanted that line to exist in order to empower women but not lose its sensuality," she says of Lenoir's debut 11-piece capsule collection. "Some women dress in a sexual manner just for themselves. It makes them feel powerful and important and independent." That is a fashion philosophy we can definitely get behind.

Click through to learn how she developed her bedroom-meets-boardroom line of lingerie, why she thinks independent designers are about to overrun mass-market brands, and the pieces she'd advise burgeoning lingerie devotees to buy to start their own collection. Plus, shop pieces inspired by her closet here.

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Inside Lenoir Lingerie Designer Kristin Prim's Closet

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For most people, putting together an outfit means considering how the outermost layers of clothing complement each other. Far less thought, if any at all, is spent on the pieces no one else can see (save maybe a lucky partner). But for lingerie designer and entrepreneur Kristin Prim, the hidden bits are the most vital part of a look.

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Upcycling Is The Biggest Trend In Fashion Right Now

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Upcycling Is The Biggest Trend In Fashion Right Now

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Upcycling has been the biggest trend of spring/summer 2021, with the likes of Balenciaga (see the shaggy coat made from ' shoelace fur '), Marni (where patchworked outerwear was created from existing garments) and Coach (note the reworked 1970s bags) all exploring how they can reuse materials. Miu Miu, meanwhile, announced in October that it's launching a new Upcycled collection - an exclusive capsule of 80 one-off dresses, refashioned from antique pieces that have been carefully sourced from vintage stores and markets worldwide.

While young designers such as Priya Ahluwalia, Bethany Williams and Emily Adams Bode have made their names by repurposing textiles that already exist, seeing major luxury brands embracing the practice marks a significant shift within the industry. "The first time we used deadstock and talked about it was in 2017," Gabriela Hearst, whose SS21 collection contained 60 per cent upcycled pieces, tells Vogue via Zoom. "It was like using a bad word: 'You don't say that word in the luxury vocabulary.'"

But the restrictions imposed by the pandemic have led to designers turning to materials they already have to hand in the studio, instead of shipping in new fabrics. JW Anderson recently launched a new capsule collection, Made in Britain, comprising six pieces made purely out of leftover fabrics and trims from previous seasons. "Made in Britain came from this idea during lockdown of creating fashion from what we already had and working locally," creative director Jonathan Anderson, who has also upcycled pieces for Loewe's Eye/ Loewe/ Nature collection, explains. "I think we'll see more and more upcycling in the future."

The devastating effect of excess inventory

It's no surprise that more designers are now embracing upcycling, considering the pandemic has led to an eye-watering €140 billion to €160 billion (£125 billion to £142 billion) worth of excess inventory from spring/summer 2020 collections - more than double the average. In the past, unsold goods would have been burned or thrown away by luxury brands in a bid to preserve their value, as part of a shocking practice that has since been banned in France. As customers become increasingly conscious of wasteful behaviour, it's more essential than ever that the industry addresses this backlog of garments in a sustainable way.

Duran Lantink, who reassembles deadstock garments from brands including Gucci, Prada, and Off-White into new high-end pieces, has seen a rise in enquiries from major retailers and brands looking to collaborate with him since the pandemic began. "There's been a lot of interest," the Dutch designer says via a call from Amsterdam. "It's kind of scary at the moment - it's necessary for retailers to think about what to do with deadstock."

Naturally, eco-minded designers such as Hearst have taken the problem of excess inventory into their own hands. The New York-based designer recently created the exclusive Retro Fit collection for London's Selfridges using existing stock - think reworked cashmere, newly dyed shirt dresses and patchwork bucket bags. "When the stores were hit by the pandemic, we started to think, 'How can we reinvent the inventory that we already have?'" Hearst says.

A new way of working

There are, of course, challenges in factoring in upcycling into the design process. Marine Serre had to completely rethink her production timeline for spring/summer 2021 after realising it was taking much longer to fulfil orders for her upcycled pieces. "We started working on the garments for the SS21 collection in October 2019, making sure we would have had enough time to produce them properly without squeezing production time," the French designer told .

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Upcycling Is The Biggest Trend In Fashion Right Now

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Upcycling has been the biggest trend of spring/summer 2021, with the likes of Balenciaga (see the shaggy coat made from ' shoelace fur '), Marni (where patchworked outerwear was created from existing garments) and Coach (note the reworked 1970s bags) all exploring how they can reuse materials.

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The 12 Biggest Spring/Summer 2021 Trends

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The 12 Biggest Spring/Summer 2021 Trends

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You could be forgiven for thinking that the spring/summer 2021 collections - and the subsequent raft of spring/summer 2021 trends - were something of a damp squib. Certainly, thanks to the ongoing pandemic, it was a season like no other.

Of the four fashion capitals, New York and London opted for predominantly digital showcases, with the odd designer hosting Covid-secure presentations for small numbers of press and buyers; while Milan and Paris held scaled-back showings with strict social distancing measures in place from some of its biggest brands. Others still opted to try something different. "Different" manifested variously as: showing off-schedule, showing via film and in virtual reality, or sending a replacement for a catwalk experience out to press and buyers in a box. All enjoyed varying degrees of success.

As for the biggest spring/summer 2021 trends? The new working-from-home routine certainly had an effect on what designers turned out. How else to explain the mood for bralettes and midriff flossing? (Beware: both trends require either a fairly militant home workout regime, and/or buoyant levels of self-confidence.) Away from the underwear-as-outerwear impulse came comfort: wide-leg trousers made for bold strides; floaty, sheer maxi dresses promised easy glamour; and ladylike ensembles pimped with a touch of sportswear felt suitably modern (think prim pleated skirts with hoodies, as seen at Prada, tea dresses with cagoules, as seen at Celine, and pencil skirts with bomber jackets, as seen at Max Mara).

Read more: Met Gala 2021: Everything You Need To Know

Then, there was a renewed sense of resourcefulness: plenty of designers opted for upcycling by way of deadstock fabrics and crafty patchworks to hold a mirror up to 2020 society, questioning its consumerist ways. And for those seeking a more straightforward approach to fashion, there was black and white. Most often, together.

If you are one of millions seeking a guaranteed mood-booster? There will always be sequins - and designers were determined to outfit locked down customers in looks that will make a living room disco feel lively. Yes, you're over video conferencing and voice notes. You want to go outside in those frivolous woven Bottega Veneta dresses, swinging those delectable chain-strung micro pouches from the Chanel catwalk and trotting down the street in those fabulous Miu Miu beaded mules. The time will come when you can wear a dramatic gown with cape-detailing and not feel like an extra in a Zoom-based, am-dram production. But for now, there are jolly stripes, clever cut-outs and sexy corseting to keep you amused. Time to play dress up with the spring/summer 2021 fashion trends. You've got the time.

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The 12 Biggest Spring/Summer 2021 Trends

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Introducing the spring/summer 2021 fashion trends you need to know about. From the colour trend to know to the key piece to covet this is the Vogue edit of SS21's top 12 women's fashion trends from the spring/summer 2021 catwalks.

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Anthropologie  Furoshiki Wrapping Cloth  

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Anthropologie  Furoshiki Wrapping Cloth  

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Janus mythology- looking to the past and future

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Section from Carta Marina medieval sea map

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