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Record your groups observations

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The Science of Waves on Water - Physics of an Ocean Wave - Classroom Video

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1. Calculate wave steepness using the formula

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2. Draw a line graph to show the relationship between wave height and wave steepness.

3. Take a picture of your graph and upload it to your group's post.

4. Suggest the relationship between wave height and wave steepness.

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The ball on the wave move in a circular motion

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- The ball stays in the same place
- The ball moves in a circular motion when its at the surface of the water
- When the ball is at the bottom it moves back and forward instead
- Waves break when they move from deep to shallow water

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The waves move in a circular motion.
The deeper the water gets, the lesser the circular motion.
The wave will break when it reaches shallow water.

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As the wave moves closer towards the shore, the shallower the water, causing the wave to break

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- ball moves in a circular orbit
- the deeper the depth of the wave, the ball makes smaller circular orbits
- below half of the wavelength, the ball does not have any movement
- when waves move towards shallow(er) water (shore), they break

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-The ball moved in a circular motion
-Waves break when they reach the coast

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the wave length is twice the size of the wave depth

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- the ball moves in circular motions
- the waves break when they reach the shallow water
- the ball stays in the same position
- the deeper the ball is the less circular motion there is (unmeasureable motion)
- the depth is equal to about 1/2 thew distance between two successive wave crests (wave length)

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- The ball moves in a circular orbit near the surface of the water when a wave is present.
- The ball does not move at bottom of the water, no motion.
- Waves break when they reach shallow water.

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Task 3: Watch this animation. What do you think are swash and backwash? Define swash and backwash.

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Task 3: Watch this animation. What do you think are swash and backwash? Define swash and backwash.

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Task 4: Is this swash or backwash? Give evidence to support your answer. 

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Task 4: Is this swash or backwash? Give evidence to support your answer. 

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Task 5: Wave Refraction. Watch the video and in your group  explain wave refraction and its effects on headlands and bays. 

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Task 5: Wave Refraction. Watch the video and in your group  explain wave refraction and its effects on headlands and bays. 

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swash is the contact between waves and land causing air bubbles to form

back swash is the movement of water moving away from the sea shore

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as the wave height increases the wave steepness increases

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This is a backwash due to the water moving back into the ocean the sand looks moist and damp which shows that there was a swash before the water moved back which means that it is indeed a backwash.

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we think that swash is when the waves break when waves break while shallower water, backshore is when the waves recedes.

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swash is the movement of the water towards to shore
backwash is the movement of the water from the foreshore to the nearshore

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When a wave reaches the shore, the water that runs up the beach is known as the swash . The water that flows back towards the sea is known as the backwash .

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It is backwash, as you can see that the sand is damp and that concludes that water has been there before but has backwashed.

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Swash is the forward movement of waves to the shore - It carries sediments to the shore (deposition)

Backwash is the flow back to the sea due to gravity. It carries sediments back to the sea (erosion)

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the steepness increases when the wave height increases

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Wave refraction is the process which waves,
change direction as they approach the coast which occurs as waves slow down due to interaction with the seabed as they move towards the coast. The waves,converge towards headlands, giving rise to increased wave height and greater erosive energy. This leads to an uneven impact on shoreline

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as the wave height increases, the wave steepness increases

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Backwash. The image shows that the water is moving backwards, returning to the sea.

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A swash is when waves break and water rushes up a beach. As swash moves up the beach, it carries sediments with it. Swash loses energy due to gravity and friction with the land, and returns to the sea as backwash.

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Backwash as the wave appears to be receding back into the sea.

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Backwash because the water is behind the foreshore and that the imprint of the wet sand shows the distance of the swash

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It is backwash as the water returns to the sea.This could be seen as the sand in front of the waters are wet.

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waves help headlands form as the wave energy shapes the headlands.

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Wave refraction is the process by which waves change direction as they approach a coast. This occursas waves slow down due to interaction with the sea bed as they move towards the coast. The impact of wave refraction on the shoreline is uneven.
Waves tend to converge on or bend towards headlands, giving rise to increased wave height and greater erosive energy. This occursbecause waves encounter friction with the headland as they approach the coast, causing them to slow down and break into it.
However, when waves approach bays, they diverge or bend away, resulting in decreased wave height and reduced erosive energy. This occurs as parts of the wave that reach shallow water first slow down while the other parts of the wave continue at the same speed.

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Wave refraction occurs when waves change direction as they approach a coast. This is because waves slow down due to interaction with the sea bed as they move towards the coast.

These waves converge on or bend towards headlands, giving rise to increased wave height and greater erosive energy.

However, when these waves approach bays, they diverge or bend away, resulting in decreased wave height and reduced erosive energy.

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wave refraction is the process of which the waves change direction when nearing the coast.
effects on headlands and bays:
it affects the shape of the coast and affects the amount of wave energy reaching the coast

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The process of which waves change direction when it approaches the coast. It converges on headlands and diverges on bays. This occurs as waves slows down due to interaction the sea bed as it moves towards the coast. the impact of wave refraction is uneven.
Waves converge on headland giving rise to increased wave height and greater erosive energy. However when waves approach bays, they diverge or bend away resulting in decreased wave height and reduced erosive energy